Tripping light fantastic in NYC: a week of living rich in the cheap seats
Jan 11th, 2012, 03:07 PM
#21
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Oh, my. The Motorino pizza looks too good.
yk, we were on the FC side, ~halfway to the front, so we watched in slips-like contortions. No matter, it was great. The couple of times I sat in Covent G. upper and lower slips I noticed that the sets were designed with an eye towards people sitting towards the ceiling, and always appreciated that. In fact, my only criticism of Enchanted Island was the spotlights cast dark shadows that were visually confusing seen from above.
I will go head and reveal that H was not entirely serious with her tips. Her ulterior motive was to catch the eye of the Eds. and get us quoted in the next Fodors NYC.
yk, we were on the FC side, ~halfway to the front, so we watched in slips-like contortions. No matter, it was great. The couple of times I sat in Covent G. upper and lower slips I noticed that the sets were designed with an eye towards people sitting towards the ceiling, and always appreciated that. In fact, my only criticism of Enchanted Island was the spotlights cast dark shadows that were visually confusing seen from above.
I will go head and reveal that H was not entirely serious with her tips. Her ulterior motive was to catch the eye of the Eds. and get us quoted in the next Fodors NYC.
Jan 11th, 2012, 04:21 PM
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ALL AROUND THE TOWN
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
We took a total of one taxi this week, and otherwise walked a lot or used the heck-of-a-deal $29 unlimited week Metrocard for buses and subways.
We were picked up at EWR by a car service, and enjoyed riding in style to the W. Cost $55 including tolls, and I tipped the driver and extra $15.
Going back to the airport this morning it was an easy A train from Sheraton Tribeca to Penn Station, then NJ Transit, then the SkyTrain to EWR. Easy, modern, from hotel door to sitting down with coffee at our gate < 1.5 hr. Total $30, since our week Metrocard expired the night before.
DOWNTOWN HOTEL
Sheraton Tribeca is a lovely new hotel. Our 4th floor room facing bustling Canal Street was quiet and serene. All the comforts. Canal has four subway lines within easy walk. Comfortable area with computers that guests can use 45 min at a stretch for no additional charge. This was the largest of the three rooms, with a king bed.
H's favorite was the W.
PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
We took a total of one taxi this week, and otherwise walked a lot or used the heck-of-a-deal $29 unlimited week Metrocard for buses and subways.
We were picked up at EWR by a car service, and enjoyed riding in style to the W. Cost $55 including tolls, and I tipped the driver and extra $15.
Going back to the airport this morning it was an easy A train from Sheraton Tribeca to Penn Station, then NJ Transit, then the SkyTrain to EWR. Easy, modern, from hotel door to sitting down with coffee at our gate < 1.5 hr. Total $30, since our week Metrocard expired the night before.
DOWNTOWN HOTEL
Sheraton Tribeca is a lovely new hotel. Our 4th floor room facing bustling Canal Street was quiet and serene. All the comforts. Canal has four subway lines within easy walk. Comfortable area with computers that guests can use 45 min at a stretch for no additional charge. This was the largest of the three rooms, with a king bed.
H's favorite was the W.
Jan 11th, 2012, 05:03 PM
#23
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MEMORABLE MEALS, FOR NOT THAT MUCH MONEY
I don't remember which of these tips I got from where, and apologize to helpful Fodorites for not giving individual credit.
FOOD CART
The tip about for Tony (The Dragon) Dragonas' Food Cart at 62nd near Madison came from an online list of memorable sidewalk carts. We got Grilled Chicken Platters (with rice, salad, white sauce) for $7 each, carried them back to our hotel and dug in. Delicious! That's one eatery I'd like to revisit.
BREAKFAST
We liked our breakfast at Morning Star Diner, on 2nd Ave between 50th and 51st. Just what such a place should be, and handy to the W.
Even more so, brunch at Casimir just off Thompkins Square was a joy. http://casimirrestaurant.com/#13263329018111&true (Not even to mention that each French-accented server was more handsome than the last.) Hollandaise on the eggs florentine made you feel that someone cared. $9.95 prix fixe, including coffee with refills. Add another $10 if you want bottomless mimosas. We made a reservation for 1130 Sunday, and it was starting to fill up when we left.
Around the corner at 41 St. Mark's Place, Cafe Orlin serves a fine Middle Eastern breakfast. We were there yesterday morning and had the place practically to ourselves. We got out of there beautifully fed for $20. I recommend the Tunisian Eggs.
Monday morning breakfast in Harlem was Patisserie des Ambassades. A mellow and diverse crowd, two of whom helped us figure out how to walk to the Cotton Club. (H is a dancer and wanted to see what it looked like.) Go with the almond croissant and cappuccino.
I don't remember which of these tips I got from where, and apologize to helpful Fodorites for not giving individual credit.
FOOD CART
The tip about for Tony (The Dragon) Dragonas' Food Cart at 62nd near Madison came from an online list of memorable sidewalk carts. We got Grilled Chicken Platters (with rice, salad, white sauce) for $7 each, carried them back to our hotel and dug in. Delicious! That's one eatery I'd like to revisit.
BREAKFAST
We liked our breakfast at Morning Star Diner, on 2nd Ave between 50th and 51st. Just what such a place should be, and handy to the W.
Even more so, brunch at Casimir just off Thompkins Square was a joy. http://casimirrestaurant.com/#13263329018111&true (Not even to mention that each French-accented server was more handsome than the last.) Hollandaise on the eggs florentine made you feel that someone cared. $9.95 prix fixe, including coffee with refills. Add another $10 if you want bottomless mimosas. We made a reservation for 1130 Sunday, and it was starting to fill up when we left.
Around the corner at 41 St. Mark's Place, Cafe Orlin serves a fine Middle Eastern breakfast. We were there yesterday morning and had the place practically to ourselves. We got out of there beautifully fed for $20. I recommend the Tunisian Eggs.
Monday morning breakfast in Harlem was Patisserie des Ambassades. A mellow and diverse crowd, two of whom helped us figure out how to walk to the Cotton Club. (H is a dancer and wanted to see what it looked like.) Go with the almond croissant and cappuccino.
Jan 11th, 2012, 05:17 PM
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OUR SPLURGE MEAL
Pre theater at the Joyce, we had the prix fixe three course dinner at Gasgogne. Heavenly. $27, and we added a $24 half bottle of Pinot Noir.
Just as cool in its own non splurge way before our other Joyce performance was Casa Havana "A Cuban Diner" 190 8th Ave (between 19th & 20th St.) Black bean soup, generous $5 mimosas, and don't miss the shrimp empanadas.
Pre theater at the Joyce, we had the prix fixe three course dinner at Gasgogne. Heavenly. $27, and we added a $24 half bottle of Pinot Noir.
Just as cool in its own non splurge way before our other Joyce performance was Casa Havana "A Cuban Diner" 190 8th Ave (between 19th & 20th St.) Black bean soup, generous $5 mimosas, and don't miss the shrimp empanadas.
Jan 12th, 2012, 06:24 AM
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DANCING AND ENTERTAINMENT
SALSA
Late Thursday night, after our uncle had dropped us safely at our hotel post dinner in a gentlemanly manner, we walked from the W to Club Cache on 46th just west of the TKTS booth at Times Square. I finally decided that's "cache" without the accented e, because they take cash only. But what a fun salsa scene there.
H brought her gold salsa shoes and sequined top, and I provided chaperonage. She danced nearly every dance. The practice is the leads (i.e. men) ask for a dance, then go look for the next partner and keep it mixed up. Her favorite was a slightly tubby older guy who was a lot of fun to dance with. The range of dancing ability is about like the local clubs here, but with four times the partner possibilities. Pretty good mojitos. We walked home from there.
DUMB LUCK + EDUCATED GUESSES = GREAT ENTERTAINMENT CHOICES
We had tickets for two performance nights of "Focus" dance at The Joyce on 8th Ave in Chelsea. Friday night was Jason Samuels Smith and his tap company (with whom my daughter had worked briefly in our home town), and Trey McIntyre Project. Both of them were terrific in their own ways. McIntyre was the best modern dance I've ever seen great choreography and technique.
Sunday night at the Joyce was barely bearable amareurish Abraham.in.motion, experimental, amusing only in spots but painful for long stretches. Dancing level only at the average of our local COCAdance teenagers. Also Kate Weare who H thought was very good, with excellent partnering.
GO SEE RICHARD III AT BAM
Maybe the best thing I've seen onstage, with Kevin Spacey and an excellent cast, directed by Sam Mendes. We were there opening night, and just blown away. Spacey illuminates the role, finds all the humor. Brilliant direction, set design, costumes, lighting.
Pay extra to sit up close, as I wish we had. As it was we were in the gallery, next to an older Russian woman who seemed upset that people were laughing. Throughout the first act she kept saying, "This isn't a comedy! Is this a comedy?"
SALSA
Late Thursday night, after our uncle had dropped us safely at our hotel post dinner in a gentlemanly manner, we walked from the W to Club Cache on 46th just west of the TKTS booth at Times Square. I finally decided that's "cache" without the accented e, because they take cash only. But what a fun salsa scene there.
H brought her gold salsa shoes and sequined top, and I provided chaperonage. She danced nearly every dance. The practice is the leads (i.e. men) ask for a dance, then go look for the next partner and keep it mixed up. Her favorite was a slightly tubby older guy who was a lot of fun to dance with. The range of dancing ability is about like the local clubs here, but with four times the partner possibilities. Pretty good mojitos. We walked home from there.
DUMB LUCK + EDUCATED GUESSES = GREAT ENTERTAINMENT CHOICES
We had tickets for two performance nights of "Focus" dance at The Joyce on 8th Ave in Chelsea. Friday night was Jason Samuels Smith and his tap company (with whom my daughter had worked briefly in our home town), and Trey McIntyre Project. Both of them were terrific in their own ways. McIntyre was the best modern dance I've ever seen great choreography and technique.
Sunday night at the Joyce was barely bearable amareurish Abraham.in.motion, experimental, amusing only in spots but painful for long stretches. Dancing level only at the average of our local COCAdance teenagers. Also Kate Weare who H thought was very good, with excellent partnering.
GO SEE RICHARD III AT BAM
Maybe the best thing I've seen onstage, with Kevin Spacey and an excellent cast, directed by Sam Mendes. We were there opening night, and just blown away. Spacey illuminates the role, finds all the humor. Brilliant direction, set design, costumes, lighting.
Pay extra to sit up close, as I wish we had. As it was we were in the gallery, next to an older Russian woman who seemed upset that people were laughing. Throughout the first act she kept saying, "This isn't a comedy! Is this a comedy?"
Jan 12th, 2012, 04:32 PM
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JAZZ IN WEST VILLAGE
We had only two evenings free, and ended up both times going to Grove/Barrow St./7th Ave area jazz clubs. We weren't interested in big deal shows, just a casual place with good music.
The concierge at the W recommended the Garage, so our first evening there we walked over after dinner at Forcella. Mark Devine on piano with his trio, very nice. It felt like city living at its finest sitting at the bar with the upside down christmas tree hanging above, enjoying cool jazz.
Monday evening we walked up from the Sheraton to Arthur's, which has a strongly dank odor but mellow sounds from the band. Mondays it's dixieland, older guys. We liked their sound, and got into a fun conversation with a couple who's been coming to hear the group for 45 years. Two drink minimum per set.
We had only two evenings free, and ended up both times going to Grove/Barrow St./7th Ave area jazz clubs. We weren't interested in big deal shows, just a casual place with good music.
The concierge at the W recommended the Garage, so our first evening there we walked over after dinner at Forcella. Mark Devine on piano with his trio, very nice. It felt like city living at its finest sitting at the bar with the upside down christmas tree hanging above, enjoying cool jazz.
Monday evening we walked up from the Sheraton to Arthur's, which has a strongly dank odor but mellow sounds from the band. Mondays it's dixieland, older guys. We liked their sound, and got into a fun conversation with a couple who's been coming to hear the group for 45 years. Two drink minimum per set.
Jan 13th, 2012, 05:20 AM
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Stoke
In case you haven't seen it, Al Pacino made a wonderful documentary called Looking for Richard about the making of a production of Richard III with Pacino as the title character.
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0116913/
In case you haven't seen it, Al Pacino made a wonderful documentary called Looking for Richard about the making of a production of Richard III with Pacino as the title character.
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0116913/
Jan 13th, 2012, 05:43 AM
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Thank you, Tomsd. You are kind to hang in for so much of my rambling! Yup, my hubby rocks, but he was doing his version at home while H and I ran around having fun. Not fair, but sometimes life ain't.
Thank you, Adu! Now that young H has a firm grasp on who Kevin S. is (previously getting him confused with his fellow old guy Robt DeNiro for some reason) we plan a Spacey Festival with DVDs. That film showed up on a search for his name in our library system, so we have it ordered and plan to watch it next. Maybe's been itching to be RIII ever since?
Thank you, Adu! Now that young H has a firm grasp on who Kevin S. is (previously getting him confused with his fellow old guy Robt DeNiro for some reason) we plan a Spacey Festival with DVDs. That film showed up on a search for his name in our library system, so we have it ordered and plan to watch it next. Maybe's been itching to be RIII ever since?
Jan 13th, 2012, 06:04 AM
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GIVING AWAY MONEY
Yes, even when doing it frugally in NYC, money evaporates from the wallet. I tipped everyone in sight and tried to keep a roll of $1 bills handy. Always remember hotel maids.
We still had to give the $2 away my friend had entrusted, saying it was a Jewish custom and for someone who needs it. My dtr H doesn't like the idea of handing money to people on the street, dislikes being importuned by strangers. I am not real crazy about people begging on subway cars, and we were only approached that way once.
I gave my dollar away the first night as we walked to see the lights at Rockefeller Center, but had to keep urging H to give hers. I wasn't about to do it for her, because that would certainly not fulfill the bargain with our friend. Finally she dropped it into the guitar case of a subway jazz musician, and was rewarded by a lovely smile.
We took a late night S shuttle twice to Grand Central, and both times happened to be in the car where an older Italian baritone stands with his sound system and has time for almost one aria/trip. He sounded good, but I never quite got close enough to his tip jar.
Yes, even when doing it frugally in NYC, money evaporates from the wallet. I tipped everyone in sight and tried to keep a roll of $1 bills handy. Always remember hotel maids.
We still had to give the $2 away my friend had entrusted, saying it was a Jewish custom and for someone who needs it. My dtr H doesn't like the idea of handing money to people on the street, dislikes being importuned by strangers. I am not real crazy about people begging on subway cars, and we were only approached that way once.
I gave my dollar away the first night as we walked to see the lights at Rockefeller Center, but had to keep urging H to give hers. I wasn't about to do it for her, because that would certainly not fulfill the bargain with our friend. Finally she dropped it into the guitar case of a subway jazz musician, and was rewarded by a lovely smile.
We took a late night S shuttle twice to Grand Central, and both times happened to be in the car where an older Italian baritone stands with his sound system and has time for almost one aria/trip. He sounded good, but I never quite got close enough to his tip jar.
Jan 13th, 2012, 06:34 AM
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THE OBVIOUS, THE FREE, AND THE CHEAP
On Saturday, before late checkout at the W, we had time to walk around upper east midtown. This was that glorious day in the mid 60's when the sun poured down on our little island.
We walked by the UN to see that it's closed weekends during the winter, then up to the little park/overview on Sutton Place just below Queensboro Bridge. We lucked into the whole place to ourselves at first, sprawled on the benches and soaked it all in.
Later Saturday we walked across Central Park from the Empire in time to stand in the 2.5 block long line for the Guggenheim "all you care to give" evening. Got there around 1745 and I think the doors opened at 1800. It really is heartening to see so many people who love art and architecture enough to queue like that, and it was a cheerful crowd that inched our way around the corners into sight of that famous spiral. (I had time to tell the long anecdote I'd read about the time F.L. Wright visited my older daughter's St. Olaf College in MN, and how he'd sat and rested himself twice while his host and assistant dug their car out of snowbanks en route to his lecture. Then when the president asked how he liked the campus he gave his honest negative opinion.)
We set a time limit of ~1830 to get back in time for the opera curtain, plunked down our dollar each, and trotted up the ramp. The current installation of dead horses and such hanging from the ceiling is cool, but we wanted to find the Picasso "Woman With Yellow Hair" that H had recently copied: http://tinyurl.com/6vtxj2d
So great to see the originals, plus some great Kandinskys and Cezannes. Then quickly down the spiral, bus down 5th to the M66 across the park, and back in plenty of time to dress and drink in the Met before the performance.
I'd never been on the Staten Island Ferry, so on one of the many pretty days we rode an uninspiring ferry away from Manhattan and then were fortunate to get one of the orange ones with great viewing upstairs for the return trip. Afterwards fortified ourselves at Financier Patisserie then chatted with some engaging young men making a statement at Zucotti Park, the remnants of Occupy Wall St.
On Saturday, before late checkout at the W, we had time to walk around upper east midtown. This was that glorious day in the mid 60's when the sun poured down on our little island.
We walked by the UN to see that it's closed weekends during the winter, then up to the little park/overview on Sutton Place just below Queensboro Bridge. We lucked into the whole place to ourselves at first, sprawled on the benches and soaked it all in.
Later Saturday we walked across Central Park from the Empire in time to stand in the 2.5 block long line for the Guggenheim "all you care to give" evening. Got there around 1745 and I think the doors opened at 1800. It really is heartening to see so many people who love art and architecture enough to queue like that, and it was a cheerful crowd that inched our way around the corners into sight of that famous spiral. (I had time to tell the long anecdote I'd read about the time F.L. Wright visited my older daughter's St. Olaf College in MN, and how he'd sat and rested himself twice while his host and assistant dug their car out of snowbanks en route to his lecture. Then when the president asked how he liked the campus he gave his honest negative opinion.)
We set a time limit of ~1830 to get back in time for the opera curtain, plunked down our dollar each, and trotted up the ramp. The current installation of dead horses and such hanging from the ceiling is cool, but we wanted to find the Picasso "Woman With Yellow Hair" that H had recently copied: http://tinyurl.com/6vtxj2d
So great to see the originals, plus some great Kandinskys and Cezannes. Then quickly down the spiral, bus down 5th to the M66 across the park, and back in plenty of time to dress and drink in the Met before the performance.
I'd never been on the Staten Island Ferry, so on one of the many pretty days we rode an uninspiring ferry away from Manhattan and then were fortunate to get one of the orange ones with great viewing upstairs for the return trip. Afterwards fortified ourselves at Financier Patisserie then chatted with some engaging young men making a statement at Zucotti Park, the remnants of Occupy Wall St.
Jan 17th, 2012, 09:21 AM
#33
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GUIDE BOOKS
We found Fodor's NYC to be the most helpful for our particular range of very budget/pretty hip to high culture, so I took it along every time we went out for the day along with the concierge map.
SHOPPING
The theme for the last half of our trip was "Russ & Daughters." Since Calvin Trillin is one of my favorite contemporary writers, I was attracted to the place he'd once mentioned. What an appetizer store that is! I love the counter persons and the lox, and thanks to Starrs I knew to go for the chocolate dipped apricots. The dried pears are also very nice.
Later, when the chocolate apricots were still calling my name, H went into an extended riff in a Russian accent where she complained that her mother brought her to New York, and then made her spend every day --from opening to closing -- at R & D: "I told her, Mama, let's at least walk around Central Park, but she said, 'Maybe tomorrow, but today we go to Russ and Daughters.'"
(Honest, I only went there twice, and each time let her have two out of the three chocolate apricots you get in a quarter pound.)
SALE AND RESALE
H got a fetching sweater dress on sale at Rag & Bone on Houston. It didn't look like much on the hanger, but is very cute on. Marked down from ~$400 to $104.
Tokio 7 on E. 7th Street has a great collection of designer resale clothing and accessories. Directly across the street is AuH2O (motto: "Cheap is the new black"), with some very cute used clothes. The other resale shops we tried were either already out of business or full of basic hometown Goodwill goods.
We found Fodor's NYC to be the most helpful for our particular range of very budget/pretty hip to high culture, so I took it along every time we went out for the day along with the concierge map.
SHOPPING
The theme for the last half of our trip was "Russ & Daughters." Since Calvin Trillin is one of my favorite contemporary writers, I was attracted to the place he'd once mentioned. What an appetizer store that is! I love the counter persons and the lox, and thanks to Starrs I knew to go for the chocolate dipped apricots. The dried pears are also very nice.
Later, when the chocolate apricots were still calling my name, H went into an extended riff in a Russian accent where she complained that her mother brought her to New York, and then made her spend every day --from opening to closing -- at R & D: "I told her, Mama, let's at least walk around Central Park, but she said, 'Maybe tomorrow, but today we go to Russ and Daughters.'"
(Honest, I only went there twice, and each time let her have two out of the three chocolate apricots you get in a quarter pound.)
SALE AND RESALE
H got a fetching sweater dress on sale at Rag & Bone on Houston. It didn't look like much on the hanger, but is very cute on. Marked down from ~$400 to $104.
Tokio 7 on E. 7th Street has a great collection of designer resale clothing and accessories. Directly across the street is AuH2O (motto: "Cheap is the new black"), with some very cute used clothes. The other resale shops we tried were either already out of business or full of basic hometown Goodwill goods.
Jan 22nd, 2012, 08:11 AM
#38
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Thank you, santamonica!
We liked the Garage atmosphere and music a lot. People were still being seated for dinner when we left at 10 PM. on Wednesday.
Cache would be a niche kind of thing, on salsa night at least.
We liked the Garage atmosphere and music a lot. People were still being seated for dinner when we left at 10 PM. on Wednesday.
Cache would be a niche kind of thing, on salsa night at least.
Jan 22nd, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Great report, Stoke! Tomsd is right, you rock. What a great NYC visitor you are. Iget to NYC a lot, as I live only a couple of hours away, but I am never as adventurous as you are. i am inspired!!
