Trip to Great Smoky Mountains NP
 

My husband and I decided that we'd like to visit Great Smoky Mountains NP this year. We'd like to go when it's less crowded and not hot so I was thinking of going in September after the summer crowds have left and before the fall foliage crowd rolls in. Is that a good time of year to go? The thing is that we will only have a week to spend in Western NC and we'd like to spend some time in Asheville and see some of the sights around there, especially Chimney Rock Park. We are from NY and will probably fly into Asheville and rent a car there if possible. Being that we will only have a week, what are some "must sees" in the area and how much time should we devote to the park? We would love to explore as much as we can and not just by car, we love to hike around too. I know there is so much to see in this part of NC and I want to make the most of my time there. The reason we want to tour around Asheville is that we are thinking of relocating there someday and would like to get to know the town. Thanks for your advice!

There was a thread here under best dates/itinery for the blue ridge parkway which had ideas for that area that you might want to check out. You can take the Blue Ridge parkway from Asheville to Cherokee (right below GSM park). I think September is a great time to go--the weather should be good and the crowds a little less than some other times. Were you planning on staying in Gatlinburg?

Sorry--I meant best dates/itinerary.

I think a lot of my answer will depend on the answer to this question: How much of a hiker are you?

On the southwest end of the park, Cades Cove is a big attraction. I suggest avoiding it on the weekend, however.

On the east, on the road from Galinburg to Newfound Gap is the trail to Arch Rock and Alum Cave. Arch rock is ate the end of the flat part of the trail along a beautiful stream and through old growth forest. At the Arch, which is a little tough for a heavy person to crawl under, the trail turns sharply left and begins a more vigorous uphill ascent to Alum Cave, which is the most scenic spot in the Smokies, or so i think.
It is about half way to the top of Mount Le Conte, which also has great viewing. But to make Le Conte and return in one day takes a very strong hiker.

Another beautiful spot is the viewing area and tower atop Clingman's Dome.
On the downhill side toward Cherokee, there are some lovely turnouts, and the attration of Mingus Mill, a turbine mill for grinding grain. It was a business mill for years and still turns out a fair production volume, or could if run on that basis.
At the southeast end of the park, there is Fontana Dam. Across the dam, and up the trail, is the Shuckstack Fire Tower.
I don't know if the fire tower is still open or not. But the view from the trail is nice. The lake is pretty if the water is not too far down. The lave levels are controlled by TVA.

The Blue Ridge Parkway starts in the Smokies, hear the east entrance to the park. I would follow it up to Water Rock Knob, and beyond if time permits to Mt. Pisgah.

That whole area, from near Cherokee NC along the parkway to Pisgah is my favorite section of any motor road in the area. You can walk short trails or stick to the view points.

Have fun. It is a beautiful drive.

There are some other highlights to be seen, but those are my favorites.

Have you ever been to Asheville before? If so, I'm sure you know it's a fantastic town. Since you've got a limited time, the absolute top must-see's are Biltmore Estate and the Asheville Urban Trail. Of course, you've also mentioned an urge to visit Chimney Rock Park, and that's more than worth it.

Biltmore is, of course, Asheville's top attraction, a 255-room palace on more than 8,000 acres of gardens planned and plotted by Frederick Law Olmsted, of Central Park fame. You could easily spend an entire day there if you're really into gardens, but the house itself will eat up probably two or three hours by itself. They've recently opened something of a petting zoo in one of the estate barns, to show how animals were raised and cared for in the Victorian era in which Biltmore was constructed, so be sure to go pet something!

The Asheville Urban Trail is the best way to get the flavor of the city. It will take you all around downtown, past almost thirty displays of public art, each helping to tell some of the history of the city. Some of the artworks have been removed at the moment, however. One has been removed pending the construction of an Art Deco parking garage and mixed-use project, and will be replaced upong the project's completion, and two others have been KO'd by cars recently, and may or may not have been repaired and replaced by the time you get here.

If you'd like to venture further afield, take an Asheville Historic Trolley Tour, which not only roams through downtown but through several of the city's most elegant historic neighborhoods as well.

Wow, thanks for your suggestions. My husband and I are not avid hikers (I want to mention that we are 29 and in decent shape). I do not intend on doing anything strenuous or really long. I like relatively simple hikes with little challenges that don't take too much time. I can probably handle a moderate hike, especially if it is particularly rewarding. I am not sure if we will make it to the TN side of the park. I don't know if we will have time - but that's the thing, I am not sure how long to spend at GSM. As I mentioned we will only have a week. I was thinking of flying into one area and leaving from another to avoid having to double back. Maybe we can fly into Asheville and then make our way to GSM and then fly home from TN. These are the things that I am trying to sort out now. Oh, and I have never been to Asheville before. I have never planned a trip like this before so I am hoping to plan it in a way that makes the most of the time I will have there.

The Alum Cave/Arch Rock trail Bob_Brown speaks of is very easy but also very beautiful. You are walking next to a wonderful babbling brook in a beautiful forest.

My two year old nephew did it with us so I think it might be the kind of trail you are looking for.

FYI--There are now nonstop jet flights to Asheville from both Newark and LaGuardia.

The Alum Cave/Arch Rock trail is in GSM national park? Is it closer to the NC or TN side of the park?

I just checked the website for continental airlines and they do indeed have non stop flights to asheville out of newark, very nice! I was thinking perhaps flying into one airport and leaving from another but I just checked the one way prices and it was almost double the round trip price. So, maybe we will fly into asheville and drive the parkway to GSM and make some stops on the way there and on the way back to asheville, make some different stops along the way. I know it's more driving, but we might actually get to see more stuff this way. I still don't know how many days I will need or want to stay near the park. Oh, should I stay in Cherokee or is there another town just as close to the park?

Idauria ~ Did you call the airlines or just look up "one way" flights online? This fall, we're flying into D.C. and flying home out of Atlanta for only $302 round trip. They are NOT "one way" flights, they are "multiple cities" flights. Try looking up the price that way or call the airlines.

jewelhawg - I was at continental airlines website and I just clicked on the one-way ticket button and it came up with the airfares. I will definitely call around and do some more searching before I totally rule it out. I also think we have enough frequent flyer miles to get 2 free RT tickets but I don't know how it would work with the one way trips and different airports. This is another thing I have to investigate. Thanks.

We have always stayed in Gatlinburg, Tennessee when visiting the Smokey Mountains. It is a very small town--very touristy (spelling?)--they have used every inch of space available for restaurants, hotels, shops, etc. It is also directly adjacent to the park itself. Most of what Bob has suggested is readily available from that location. Some people go to that area just for Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. We like the nature in the park itself. We spend the whole day in the park and then like to come back to the town to eat, walk around, etc. There are numerous place to stay of all varieties--we usually like to stay in a hotel room with a balcony overlooking a mountain stream--and there are many of those too. The time of year you want to go won't be as crowded as other times, but I would still go during the week--weekends are always busy there. You can also rent a chalet. I think the last time we went it was a Hampton that we stayed in. It was very close to the park entrance and our room (overlooking the river) was quiet, but the hotel entrance was on the main street--so we could go to dinner, etc. without using our car (you can walk the whole town without difficulty--or take trolleys). There was also a great continental breakfast. There are many similar hotels.

Did you check out http://www.nps.gov/grsm? It appears that Ashville airport is 60 miles from GSM. You may want to drive to Gatlinburg (or wherever you decide to stay in that area) first--the drive on the interstate is very pretty since you are going through the mountains--and spend a couple of nights there and then go back along the Blue Ridge Parkway to Asheville and that area. I think 2-3 nights would be enough to get a feel of the area--you definitely won't be able to do everything, but if you decide to move down there, you will have plenty of time to explore then.

Just to add to places you can see--the Roaring Fork Auto tour is nice (the first time we went it was because it was raining)--and we liked to hike to Grotto Falls that is on that road. There is also a partly paved hike (if I remember right)--I think it is called Laurel Falls. I think you could do both those hikes easily. There are also places where you can take a picnic lunch or just sit by the river.

Thanks so much maj! I am getting so excoted about this trip, I can't believe it's only April!

How far is Gatlinburg from Cherokee, NC? In other words how long does it take to get from the NC side of the park to the TN side? I am just soo confused as where to stay while I am there, on the NC or TN side. I plan on enjoying the sights along the parkway as we go to the park from Asheville. We will probably make a side trip or two on the way. I definitely want to see Chimney Rock. The good thing is that the GSM park stuff will be done during the week so I am looking forward to having it to myself! There is way too much to see in this part of NC and I know I won't get to see and do all of it in a week, I just want to make the most of the time we will have there. I don't know if I will move there or not. so I want to make sure I don't miss out on all the really cool stuff!

I'm guessing it is about 20 miles between Cherokee and Gatlinburg. The main road through the park that we have always taken goes from one to the other so it probably doesn't matter much which town you stay in. (I would have to think that Cherokee would be the quieter choice).You can get to most places easily. The road to Cades Cove is on the Gatlinburg side (not sure if there is another way that is closer to Cherokee) as well as the auto trail and Grotto Falls trail. Clingman's Dome and Newfound Gap and I think most of the places Bob was talking about are on this road between the two towns. If you are coming and leaving via the Blue Ridge Parkway--it starts (and ends) by Cherokee. We've never stayed in the NC side (by Cherokee), but I just checked on the internet and it looks like there are many hotels to choose from there. The last time we were in Cherokee itself was many years ago and there wasn't much there as far as lodging. I don't think you can go wrong staying in either place. Hopefully someone who has stayed in both will answer.

Just returned from the Smokies this past weekend. IT was a great time to go - no traffic, things were blooming, and the water was flowing. Drove through Cherokee- would not return there. It looks somewhat run down with alot of little tourist shops. Did not get the chance to do Chimney Rock, but would have liked to.
Toured the Biltmore Mansion in Asheville and stayed at the inn on the grounds. Very nice place to stay with beautiful views.

We were in GSMNP last summer. We stayed in both Gatlinburg (for its proximity to the Park) & in Cherokee (after driving Newfound Gap Road & doing all the pullouts & sightseeing) overnight before driving the Blue Ridge Pkwy the next day.

Both towns hve acceptable places to stay. You are not "obligated" to visit any venues that are too "touristy" you are there for the natural scenery.

Thanks everyone! It's good to know that there isn't a great amount of distance between the two towns. That means I will be able to see both sides of the park. I will do some more research before I decide where to stay but it's good to know that both are acceptable. If I do stay in Cherokee, it will only be for lodging and proximity to the park. I have heard that it is kind of a tourist trap because of the casino, but I don't intend to do that stuff anyway. I will check out the hotels in Gatlinburg too. I definitely want to check out the places Bob mentioned so where I stay will depend on my precise itinerary. Thanks again!

There are literally hundreds of chalets (cabins) to rent throughout the area. Some are close to town and others are more secluded--many on the sides and tops of the mountains with fabulous views, hot tubs, grills, pool tables, etc.

I can highly recommend it. It really gives you the feel of being in the Smokey Mountains.

The GSM area is not so large that you can't stay in one place and see it all.

Oh, my, Cherokee is a huge tourist trap. It's something everyone should see and say "oh, my . . ."

The scenery is wonderful, but the town is a tourist trap (and Gaitlinburg is a tourist trap too). While in Cherokee visit the Indian Heritage center -- I'm not sure of the exact name of the place, but it's on the main road. You will see authentic Indian crafts, not the Chinese-made Indian crafts available at the tourist trap stores.

I think it's on the web or you might have to contact the Brevard/Transylvania County tourism for a map of the waterfalls. Brevard is a cute town worth stopping in for a little while.

The Museum of the Cherokee is excellent & good for about 2 hours while in Cherokee.

idauria:

If you want, send me an email and I can send you a link to a bunch of activities in NC to help you plan your vacation better. There are many, many more places you can consider seeing while in the NC mountains in addition to what has been listed on this thread. I'm sure you will enjoy your mountain vacation wherever you go!

Sept is cooler and less crowded but why not come mid-Oct and see the colors? It is busiest on the weekends and you can be in Ashville on those days.
It is 35 miles from Cherokee to Gatlingburg. There is one main road running through the park and this connects these two towns. About mid-way is Newfound Gap and just before it is the turnoff to Clingmans' Dome. It is 7 miles to the parking lot and .5 mile walk to an observation tower with a 360 degree view. There are benches along the way to stop and rest. A great stop for sunrise/sunset. At Newfound Gap (restrooms and water) can see plaque where park was dedicated and take a walk on the Appalachian Trail. Going towards Gatlinburg will come to the parking area and trailhead for Alum Cave Bluffs and Mt. LeConte on your right. Nearby closer to Gatlinburg is trailhead to Chimney Tops. 2m one way to top. Steep but very impressive views from top. Or just walk down to the river and cross over the bridge. The Chimney Tops picnic area is good place to check for black bear. You will arrive at a crossroads just before Sugarlands Vistor Center. Turn left here to go to Cades Cove will pass Laurel Falls trailhead on your right, 1.3m to falls. The road around the cove is busy no matter what time of year. Allow at least an hour without stopping midway around at the visitor center and old farm buildings. The road is one-way and is closed til midmorning on Wed and Sat to allow hikers and bicycles to enjoy it without cars. There are three wonderful churches in the cove which are open to public. Can also take the Rich Mt Rd (oneway out of the park) and get view down into the Cove.
In Gatlinburg turn at stop light 8 (there are numbers on top of each) this takes you to Roaring Fork Nature Road with old homes and trails to Grotto Falls and Rainbow Falls.
Traffic is bad all the time in Gatlinburg and parking is hard to find. There are a number of major hotels just off the road in Cherokee leading into the park. Both towns are tourist traps but Cherokee's is much smaller in size.
If you take the Blue Ridge Parkway from Ashville to the park be sure to stop at the Southern Highlands Folk Art Center at milepost 382. It is approx. 79 miles from Ashville to the park. Speed limit is 45. Also near Asheville is Mt. Mitchell State park (access is off Blue Ridge Pkwy) which is the highest point east of the Mississippi.

Photodog,

Nice job. Everyone planning a trip to GSMNP should print your directions.

Wow, those were indeed excellent directions! I actually did print it and will save it along with all my other trip planning stuff.

I know the colors are awesome in October, but I rather go when the crowds are less, even if I plan on being there during the week anyway. I think I just can't wait go and will go nuts waiting an extra month! But, who knows, my plans are not etched in stone yet, so I just might find myself there in time to see the fall colors.

Is there another name for the parkway? I was confused because directions said to take rte 40? to the park but I looked at a map and I thought that was the same as the parkway but I looked at a map and saw that the parkway was south of that route. You do take the parkway to GSM, right?

As far as I know, the Blue Ridge Parkway only has that one name. If anyone has referred to Rt 40, that's probably Interstate 40, which does indeed head due west from Asheville. If you're looking to get somewhere and not take forever doing it, that's the way to go. It's the more practical way to commute between places, whereas the protected scenery along the Blue Ridge Parkway is what makes that road more a destination in and of itself.

Thanks hauntedheadnc. That clears it up for me. I definitely intend to travel the parkway to reach my final destination at GSM.

There are three ways I know of from Ashville to the park. The Blue Ridge Parkway which can be accessed off I-40. There are signs indicating the parkway or look for sign for the Folk Art Center which is on the parkway. You can take I-40 to the Foothills Parkway near milepost 444, which is a two lane road which connects with TN32 (2 lane road) which runs past Greenbrier (excellent place to put your feet in the water while sitting on rocks in the river) into Gatlinburg. Can also take US 23/74 off I-40 towards Waynesville then towards Cherokee. This is a divided four lane highway with few stoplights. Look for the Hwy 441 exit which takes you to the park. This would be your quickest way. If you want to experience more "flavor" but on a narrow, windy road take US19 off 23/74 towards Maggie Valley then Cherokee.

Thanks very much for all the great info. I have one more question- where is the airport in TN that is closest to Gatlinburg? Is it Knoxville? I am back to my original plan of flying into one and leaving from another. Now I just don't know if I should do Asheville or GSM first. What makes more sense?
Thanks!

Knoxville would be your closest airport to Gatlinburg. The park is less busy on the weekdays would suggest you plan on being in Ashville on the weekend. If you were planning on going to Biltmore House there were posts on this site asking about discount tickets being available from AAA. In case you are interested.

Idauria~
I was able to call the AAA office in Asheville and purchase the Biltmore Estate discounted tickets over the phone. They are mailing them to me. The tickets are $32 vs. $39. Their phone number is 1-800-274-2621. You will need to give them your AAA number. While in Asheville, we're staying at the Richmond Hill Inn...check it out! The Richmond Hill Inn gives a 10% discount to AAA members as well.

The last portion of our trip we'll be staying in a cabin at Nantahala Mountain Resort. It's just 20 miles southwest of Bryson City, NC...and gorgeous cabins for rent. Because of Photodog's great directions through the GSM, we'll be taking a day trip following his directions...from Cherokee to Gatlinburg. There is a great map showing all of his directions. Go to www.us-national-parks.net/images/gres.jpg However, I'm having trouble getting it to print on a page...even horizontal and legal size paper. If I figure it out, I'll email you back.

Lastly, if you have the time, we're taking two other day trips from the Nantahala Mountain Resort.
#1. THE MOUNTAIN WATERS SCENIC BYWAY: It's a 61 mile (one-way) trip from Almond, NC to Highlands, NC...easily accessible from Bryson City. It takes you through two gorges and many, many waterfalls and trails.
#2. THE JOYCE KILMER MEMORIAL FOREST AND CHEROHALA SKYWAY: The Cherohala Skyway is nicknamed "The Mini Blue Ridge Pkwy." with less crowds. It goes from just outside Robbinsville, NC to Tellico Plains, TN. The Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest is just before the entrance to the skyway. We'll spend an hour or so exploring the forest then start our journey on the Skyway. Look both of these up on the web...they look beautiful.

Have a great trip!

Idauria, if you're moving to Asheville, you'll want to do it soon (or buy your land), as real estate there is now about the most expensive in the state of North Carolina! It's a wonderful place.......... and the whole world has discovered it!:-)

I FOUND THE MAP! Go to: www.nps.gov/carto/GRSM.html
You'll want to click on the top one labeled: Adobe Acrobat PDF, April 2003 screen-viewable file (1.1MB) It's a great map showing the road that goes through the GSM from Cherokee to Gatlinburg. It shows everything Photodog wrote about in his reply.

If you decide to do either of the itineraries I wrote about in my previous reply, let me know and I'll tell you how to get the maps and directions.

Oh boy, decisions, decisions!!! There's just so gosh darn much to see and do down there I really don't know where I want to go! I will take your advice Photodog and head to Asheville first, which was my initial inclination anyway. We will fly in on a Saturday morning (flight is just under 2 hours). How much time should I allot here? I was thinking leaving from there either Mon or Tues and head to Chimney Rock first and maybe Lake Lure if time permits that day and then onto the parkway to GSM. In your opinion is Chimney Rock a worthwhile place to see?
Jewelhag - those places sound really nice. The more I hear the more confused I get! I want to see everything, but I know I must choose only a few places to visit. I am thinking it might be nice to do something other than hiking all week - any suggestions? I don't belong to AAA so no discounts for me, besides I am not sure Biltmore Estate is part of our plans or not. I guess we should check it out. I am glad I still have 4 months to plan this thing. I think it is going to take that long to figure out an itinerary!

My husband and I were thinking of visiting the area in July/Aug. I know it will be hot but just how hot will it be? Is it so hot and humid (?) that you don't want to do anything or can you still hike in the mountains since the elevations are higher? I live in Oklahoma so I am used to some heat but not so much with humidity.

Just an FYI - Knoxville has a terrific little airport. I love flying in and out of there when I take those (short) long weekend trips in the fall for the leaf change. The airport is simple, clean & nice, and easy to get in and out of.

Also, I am heading to the mountains in June for a week+ and will gladly be printing these fantastic comments posted here. Thanks to everyone! I will be staying at Sunterra's Bent Creek - where I stay on every visit. It's a lovely resort, BTW.

Hi from Asheville. Seems like the bottom line is that you want to visit Asheville with the idea of perhaps relocating here and as a side line you also want to see Great Smoky Mtn NP. An alternative to getting to GSMNP via Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge - which have awful traffic and teem with tourists, hotels/motels and chain restaurants, would be to go into the park via Waynesville or Bryson City area. Waynesville is about 40 minutes from Asheville and Bryson City about 1.5 hrs. In between the 2 is 441 which goes to Cherokee and through the park.
Is there a particular reason you want to go to GSMNP since you are not hikers? If you just want to see scenery then staying in Asheville and driving the Blue Ridge Parkway north into Pisgah Nat'l Forest would be just as beautiful.
Once the leaves start turning both the park and the parkway will be jam packed. I would suggest late Sept or very early Oct.
As far as Asheville - great city - lots of art, great restaurants and outdoor activities. You'll love it - unfortunately everyone does!

leahinsc -We definitely want to do some hiking! We also enjoy just being in the mountains and taking in the scenery. I am not looking for intense hiking experiences but would like to explore the mountains. We want to go in early/mid september in order to avoid the foliage crowds. I was thinking spending 3 days in Asheville, then heading out via the parkway towards the park, stopping at Chimney Rock Park, then back on the parkway. Depending on the time, we might also make other stops. Thinking on spending that night in cherokee, or another town near the NC entrance to the park and then heading towards TN the next morning, spending the remainder of the trip there. (Right now I am looking into cabins in the gatlinburg area close to the park.) Does that sound like a reasonable itinerary? As for the exact places we will be seeing, we haven't gotten that far yet. I am in the process of buying all sorts of guide books and gathering as much info as possible.

Been up that way a few times now, I must say its georgeous any time of year!

Don't stay in Cherokee. Go down the road a little to Bryson City and check out either the Freymont Inn, Randolph House, or cheaper Lakeview Cottages. Bryson City is so laid back, I've never run into traffic, and the views are awesome. There is a lodge at Fontana Dam too. Check out this site, its got lots of great info:
http://www.greenoaks2001.org/western...lina_links.htm

I wasn't too impressed with Gatlinburg, but it was January when we were there. If I remember correctly, the drive from Cherokee to Gatlinburg was only about 30 miles, but due to the twisting and turning, it took about an hour to navigate it!

The weather in September will be awesome. That is our favorite time of year. The day time highs can get into the 80's, but not as humid as the lowlands. The nights are cool into the 60's. Not the rainy season if I remember correctly.

Drive down 74 from Cherokee to Nantahala Falls. Do a raft trip! The water is usually cool and refreshing!

If you boat, you can rent a pontoon at Almond Boat Park. Fontana Lake is beautiful, and never crowded! They've even got some campy cabins there if you're interested in spending the night. On second thought, Lakeview Cottages are nicer. NOw, remember, these aren't four star accomodations.

But Freymont and Randolph House are historic landmarks with restaurants on site. http://www.lanierbb.com/North_Carolina/

There's the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad too. Its got locations in Bryson City, and Dillsboro if I remember correctly.

Have fun, you're going to love NC!