Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report Washington State

Our trip to the northwest was shortened because of a family emergency, but perhaps some of our experiences may help some others planning a trip to Washington. Sadly, the part of the trip I had the most help from Fodorites on—the Olympic Peninsula—will have to wait for another time. We spent seven days in Seattle, partly on family business. On one of those days, we drove to Whidbey Island. Then we drove the Cascade Loop, starting with two nights in Leavenworth and side trips.

In Seattle, we were very happy with the Mediterranean Inn. The location in the lower Queen Anne area was convenient because it is surrounded by restaurants and shops, including a Safeway across the street. The rooms are small, but we booked a sixth floor room with a view and air conditioning. The microwave and small frig allowed us to stock breakfast and drinks. (Only the sixth-floor rooms have a/c and they cost ten to twenty dollars more than the bargain rates you’ll see on the Internet starting at $98). The greatest treat is a rooftop terrace with a terrific view of the skyline and the bay. On a couple of days, we could even see Mt. Rainier. People took wine and snacks up on the roof and watched the sunset. Computers for internet browsing are supplied in the lobby and the business center is fully equipped and free.

If we had not been dealing with family matters, we could have done without a car and used the buses and the monorail at the Seattle Center, a fifteen minute walk away. Since we needed a car, we had to pay $16 a day for parking in the hotel garage. There is no in and out fee. We even walked to the top of Queen Anne Hill one day to “The Spot” a great Midwestern-style homey restaurant. (Although the young desk clerk said 15 minutes, it took us 20 with plenty of stops to catch our breath).

We also walked to several restaurants only a block or two from the hotel: Racha Noodles and Thai Cuisine; Rick’s, a famous Seattle hamburger place; another hamburger place a block away that has a larger variety and heavenly garlic fries. HELP! I can’t remember the name. We stopped at a fish taco place on Queen Anne Blvd near the hotel; a Subway, and The Greek Corner for lunch across from the Seattle Center. Farther afield, we drove to Macarina bakery up on Queen Anne Hill for Sunday brunch, thanks to tips from Fodorites. It is Fabulous. More than just a bakery, they offered a Salmon omelette, French toast with raspberries and peaches and vegetable quiches among other things. We also drove a few blocks to Panos Greek Restaurant. A tiny place, where Panos waits tables, the food is authentic Greek, not Americanized. Alas, Panos takes a vacation during September, if that is when you will be in Seattle. We went to Ivar’s Salmon House on Mt. Union and ate great fish meals with a beautiful view. Could have gone the cheaper route and ordered at the Ivar’s fish bar outside and eaten at tables by the lake or in a small, plain dining room. We drove toward downtown to try Flying Fish, for another excellent dinner.

We walked around Seattle Center, and enjoyed the awesome Frank Geary architecture on the two museums, but did not take time to go inside them or up in the Space Needle. And in case you are wondering, my husband and I had both been to Pike’s Place Market, so decided to skip it this time, although we did walk around in Pioneer Square and visited the interesting Gold Rush Museum.

We drove Whidbey Island from the north to the south, and stopped in the quaint library in the cute historic town of Coupeville to pick up a map of the Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve which covers much of the central island. Coupeville would be a fun place to spend a day exploring on foot. After eating at the friendly and cozy Christopher’s, we followed the drive for much of the way through the preserve, although some was closed because of road construction. Went to Fort Casey and visited the Admiralty Head Light. The brochure is informative and we thoroughly enjoyed the drive. At the southern end of the island, we detoured to the little artsy town of Langley. The return is by ferry to Mukilteo.

We followed much advice (including the tourism booklet ordered online from the Cascades site) and started the Cascades Loop drive from the south (counter-clockwise). One benefit was that we were passing through Monroe at lunchtime and happened upon a wonderful bakery/café, The Wicked Baking Company. A delicious “re-fueling” spot.

We had reserved two nights at the Pension Anna in Leavenworth (Thanks to recommendations here) and found it to be as friendly and charming as advertised. I was afraid that Leavenworth was going to strike me as Disneyfied, but it is a real treat. The architecture is very authentic, the Bavarian restaurants serve great food and the oom-pah band playing in the park’s gazebo made us think we were back in Bavaria.

In fact we kept hearing German accents, and I asked the Innkeeper, Anne, about German visitors. I learned from her German sidekick Brigitte that when Leavenworth created itself as a Bavarian town, the German population in the county was around five percent. Now it is over twenty percent. We tried the German beer at Tumwater Inn and had an outstanding German dinner at Mozart’s Café. The following evening we tried another good restaurant, not quite as fancy as Mozart’s but equally authentic, Christa’s.

I got up early and went walking around the town, discovering the Audubon Society and Barn Beach preserve. A lovely old house sits on a bluff overlooking a creek with mountains in the background and people are invited to wander. The second morning, we returned to find a fawn and doe grazing on the lawn. We later learned that black bear have been sighted recently in the city park and were glad our wildlife was tamer.

On our first day, we drove northward past orchards with pears ready to be picked and went as far as Wenatchee where we visited the Ohme (two syllables) Gardens. A couple created this natural mountain retreat over several decades and it is filled with meandering rock paths, waterfalls, pools, glens of ferns and views over the town. Wenatchee is a big and not beautiful town, the exception among the small communities along the road. On our way back to Leavenworth we stopped at the Icicle Winery for a few tastes. That evening we stocked up on cheese and fancy bread from the Cheese Monger and the next morning stopped just outside of town at a glorious fruit stand where we bought more goodies for a picnic lunch along the road.

Our drive through the Cascades was a real treat. The only difficulty is forward motion, since the temptation is to stop and gaze at the scenery, or take lots of pictures. Since our trip did not turn out as planned, we definitely are looking forward to trying again in the future.