trip report: Vegas, Lake Powell, Zion, Bryce w/ little kids in summer
 

We are mid way through the trip and I had a chance to hop onto DH's computer and figured I'd get the ball rolling with a trip report... won't be able to finish it all now, but will get it started. We are a family of four from Boston, kids are 3.5 yo DS and 7 yo DD. Was a little apprehensive about a dessert vacation in the summertime with little kids but it has worked out fabulously.

First off, must say that our trip has already been infinitely better for all the advice we got from fellow fodorites... a HUGE THANK YOU to everyone who offered advice.

We started out on Tuesday July 14th leaving Boston enroute to Las Vegas on Southwest Airlines - had a great trip in.. I've been reading "The Omnivore's Dilemna" by Michael Pollen and was completely engrossed in this in the plane so looked with interest out at the crops in Iowa/Midwest. Read this fascinating book if you have time and interest in understanding where your food comes from and how it might affect you and your family.

Anyway, I digress...

L A S V E G A S

We arrived in Las Vegas = waited in a VERY long line at Dollar RentaCar - none of the other companies had a soul in line. Paid for a full size car and was given my choice once down in the garage by the nice attendant. Chose the Crystler Pacifica - which was about $400 more for the 10 days than what I paid for - I love a bargain!

No traffic to speak of in Vegas. Drove over to RedRock Casino Resort. This was a great place to stay with kids. Honestly, I didn't even realize I was anywhere near a casino. No ca-chinging sounds, no cigarette smoke, absolutely gorgeous hotel. The lobby was a zillion times more fancy and fabulous in person than the website and our suite was over the top. No lines for check in and very courteous staff. We booked the Party at the Pool Package so were put in a Signature Suite. We pushed two chairs together for DS to sleep on (sort of the size of a toddler bed) and requested a rollaway bed for DD which was delivered promptly and was not an additional charge. The kids LOVED taking jacuzzi tubs at night (and so did I). The tub had those lights that change from blue to red to green to purple, etc.

The pool party package included the suite along with at the pool a ca-bed (an 8' x 8' bed with fabric closable sides), and pastries, coffee, chips, salsa, fruit platter, bottle of booze with mixers. We upgraded for $100 to a cabana which was a very good thing to do. We loved having the cabana. Our cabana servers were wonderful and we had plenty of shade for the kids (nice in 100+ weather), a TV, a misting machine (which reduced the temp inside the cabana by a good 15 degrees), a fridge stocked with beverages, a safe and all the food etc. During the day, people came by with a bottle of Evian body spray on ice. and came by to clean our sunglasses. The service was just great... very attendant without being solicitous. The kids LOVED the pool and the food from the grille was very good. The cabana is shaded by the hotel during the morning and then gets quite a bit of sun by late afternoon. We were there from 9 in the morning until 6 at night. It would have been brutal to be out all day in that heat without the cabana. It was my intention to have it and I think it made all the difference. It took a lot of research calling hotels to find room prices combined with cabana prices to see what the best deal was and then factoring in where we would feel welcome with kids. The Red Rock was perfect ... very affordable for the room and cabana and just gorgeous and luxurious - worth much more than what we paid.

L A K E P O W E L L

After two days we packed up and hit the road early for our long drive to Lake Powell. We made a couple of stops and indeed it was a very long drive. DS fortunately feel asleep for a couple of hours - he was very antsy. DD hung in there but was very ready for the trip to be over. We LOVED the gorgeous scenery along the way. One thing that was really neat that we saw was tumbleweeds bumping up and down in the prairie... at least 30 feet in the air and blowing all over the place. From a distance we hadn't a clue what we were seeing. It looked like giant kernel of popcorn popping. As we passed through this storm of tumbleweeds they were blowing across the road and actually one got stuck in the grill of our rental car. Certainly a first for us being from New England and never seeing a tumbleweed before. Although a long drive just so much interest and beauty - we were completely fascinated with the landscape.

We drove straight to Chief Tsosie's in Page, AZ and went on their 5 pm tour. Yes, sort of late in the day in terms of lighting but this is what worked with our late arrival into town and we had the added advantage (which I think was huge) of being out there on our own. None of the other tour companies go out there at 5 pm so it was just our group of 14 people in the Upper Antelope Canyon. It was magnificent! We got wonderful photos and it was definitely a highlight. We did drive on one of those open trucks, not in an air conditioned Suburban as I had read about on Fodors. It was fine though as the kids were over the moon about being on the truck. Very hot, but just fine nonetheless. Inside the canyon, great temps = not hot at all.

We checked into the Lake Powell Resort afterward. Driving down and seeing all the rectangular cinderblock motel buildings facing a big parking lot was not the most inviting sight but it was a nice stay all in all. Definitely a departure from the luxury of Las Vegas but in a way charming and sort of brought me back to my college dorm days with all the people coming and going from their rooms.

We went straight to the pool and the kids enjoyed a swim - the place seems to be run by a bunch of college kids which leads to lapses in service but all in all everything was just fine.

Next day we rented a boat from Antelope Point Marina and spent one of the best day's of my life on Lake Powell. We checked in Wahweap Marina for a rental as well, but their boats weren't suited to our family in terms of the shade they offered and were much more expensive. We rented a 26' deck boat and it had a large bimini for shade and also had a head on board. The rental fee for 5 hours was $190 plus $20 for a tube and gas ($60). We felt it was well worth the cost. We set out without a plan other than checking out some of the canyons and Padre Bay. First we went to Labyrinth Canyon and anchored the boat and went swimming. It was surreal to say the least... like nothing I've ever experienced. We were in a very shallow area and the water was crystal clear and about 80 degrees. Even my 3 year old could walk around on the bottom. The bottom was red rock. We found bits of loose rock and picked them up and were able to split them in half with our hands... the kids thought this was great.

We continued on and did some tubing. DD went first them me and then me with DS who also loved this experience. Then on to explore some canyons. We went deep into Face Canyon and just loved this. we saw a couple of campsites and though one day we'd love to camp in a canyon as well. Just when you thought you'd reached the end of the canyon, you'd turn a bend and it kept on going - we were just in awe of this paradise and hope to return one day.

We went swimming in another canyon later in the afternoon, this one with a wash coming down into the water so a really cool orange sand beach. The kids just loved this and so did we.

Had a yummy mexican dinner at Fiesta Mexicana and then back to the hotel for some swimming.

Checked out in the morning and visited the Glen Canyon Dam visitor's center. Didnt' do the tour but the kids both became Jr. Park Rangers and were very enthused about this. It was nice to learn more about the dam project which seems to be massive and with far reaching consequences.

Left Page enroute to Zion - travelled through a thunder and lighting storm which was pretty dramatic and cool - saw the temperatures plummet 30 degrees in a 5 minute span (and then go right back up again).

Had a GREAT lunch at Houston's Trails End restaurant in Kanab Utah enroute ... my Philly cheesesteak sandwich was the best I've ever had (although while reading this book Omnivore's Dilemna eating cornfed beef doesn't quite sit right with me... I am in the midst of my own dilemna as an omnivore).

Z I O N N A T I O N A L P A R K

Entered through the East Gate ... enroute from Lake Powell we commented many times that we couldn't imagine anything topping that experience - we figured Zion would be a disappoint after the staggering beauty of Lake Powell and then there we are surrounded by just awe inspiring canyons, buttes, bluffs, etc. This place is just incredible. Saw goats right next to us on the rocks and they ran in front of our car as we photographed them... Being in Zion and in Lake Powell for me is like being inside a postcard. and is being surrounded by natural wonder of proportions that we couldn't imagine and which the photographs can't prepare you for.

We drove straight through taking it all in yet mindful that stopping wouldn't be good for the kids after that point, with the long trip and all. We went straight to the hotel and checked in. Desert Pearl Inn - THANK YOU for recommending this place. Absolutely perfect - love the landscaping everywhere and humming birds all over the place. The lush poolside area and our view right down to the Virgin River and Zion behind that.

The kids got into their bathing suits and went straight to the river to take a little swim. They enjoyed this and then went to the pool and had a ball. Since the rooms include nearly a full kitchen set up we had dinner in our room. DH and I drank wine out on the patio overlooking the river after the kids were asleep (had interesting conversations about the industrialization of the food industry inparicular where corn is concerned... this book has got me over a barrel).

Awoke to the most pleasant temperatures - ate breakfast outside on our patio . The air quality was perfect - and it stayed this way for several hours. We got out and went for a couple of hikes at Zion. To Weeping Rock and Emerald Pools. It was getting hot by the time we finished Emerald Pools and the kids were wilting. We had lunch at the Zion LOdge and then headed back to the hotel for swimming. Was able to do some laundry which was great (did I say how much I love the Desert Pearl Inn?). Got some take out from the Pizza and Noodle place which was great and then sat outside in the nice warm weather . All in all the heat has been manageable and I would encourage anyone who can only travel in the summer to pursue their plans to visit this magnificent part of our country. When I say it is heavenly, I mean it. You will feel one step closer to heaven after visiting the natural beauty of the places we've been.


Tomorrow we leave Zion and head to Bryce. Will write more soon.

Sounds like you had a great vacation. Thanks for coming back and letting us know.

Utahtea

Makes me want to get back out west soon!! Thanks, keep it up.

Am really tickled to read your report and hear your enthusiasm for the incredible beauty of this area. Despite living here, these parks never fail to take my breath away, regardless of how often I visit them.
I was especially happy to hear that you rented a boat and spent a day on Powell. Most folks go to Page just for Antelope Canyon (well worth it) and the dam tour, but don't get out on the water. It really is a magical lake that has to be experienced to be believed.
I look forward to the next installment....hoodoos, here you come!

Don't forget the speed trap somewhere just north of Mt. Carmel Junction...brown bronco..county sheriff. I have yet to go that route and not see him.

It is fun to relive the area through fresh eyes. The little things we all take for granted like tumbleweeds and desert thunderstorms are fun to see again through your 'virgin' viewpoint. I look forward to more...enjoy Bryce!

Sounds like you're having a great time! I'm glad your itinerary changes worked, and I'm looking forward to reading the rest of the report.

Lee Ann

Thank you for reporting back!!

MY

It's easy to see you much you love Mother Nature. I took my first trip to the canyons and Lake Powell last summer and reading your wonderful report brought it all back!
I can't wait to read what you have to say about Bryce. Bryce really just blew me away!

The brown Bronco speed trap that Peterboy is referring to (if we're talking about the same one?) I believe is in the tiny community of Orderville, north of Carmel Junction/Hwy 89. It's been the same cop car, in the exact same spot since we moved here 4 years ago. It's actually a dummy (with a bad wig) in a car that never changes locations. Probably a decoy to give we locals a false sense of security while the live guys are around the next bend! If he's made it to the Fodors forum he must be doing his job....too funny.

I followed your planning and it's fun to read your report in progress. I love your positive attitude - that you find the beauty in the tumble weed storm and the lightning - instead of saying how miserable it was. I'll look forward to hearing about the rest of your trip!

schmerl:

Did you have a Dirty Monkey anywhere on your trip?

That is funny RandiRA. It works....I've also
seen cars pulled over in the area so it looks
like Orderville is taking advantage of the
revenue stream of tourists passing between
Zion and Bryce.

Hi Michelle,
I got a good laugh out of that one! No Dirty Monkeys. I save them for beach vacations!

Hello! Checking back in. We are currently in St. George and I have some down time with DS napping so figured I'd update my report. First can I say to those of you who call Utah home - I think you are so so very fortunate. DH and I feel changed by all we've seen on this trip - I knew it would be a really fun and different trip for us (most of our trips are to NYC or Florida for R&R)... I didn't expect it to be life altering - maybe it is because I am still on the trip, but I really truly feel like a different person for everything I've seen and experienced. Anyway, I digress...

Z I O N

Felt like I glossed over this... When we entered the park enroute from Lake Powell it was through the East Entrance - this is a must! an absolute must! This was our first introduction to the park and we were just speechless at what we were seeing. Zion and Bryce are so different - what I loved about Zion is the inescapable beauty all around you and you are most confronted with it by entering throught the East gate, but then even in Springdale, whether filling your car up with gas, sitting outside of your hotel room, exiting the market, you look up and there is the majesty all around you all the time. I just loved this.

On the day we were leaving we did the Pa'Rus trail with the kids and while it was a bit sunny they were in and out of the river and really enjoyed it. I thought of all the trails we walked, that Weeping Rocks was most doable for them. I had to carry DS piggyback on the way up to Emerald Pools which was totally worth it, but if I had to do it over, we'd hike up to Emerald Pool earlier when not so hot and then Weeping Rock later since there is quite a bit of shade there and it is fairly easy (one of you probably told me to do this... ).

We were all so happy in Zion - just loved the combination of being in nature, reading in the shade in the warmth on my patio at Desert Pearl, watching the kids swim in the river and in the pool. The temperatures were perfect in the morning and as predicted hot in the afternoon but TOTALLY managed by swimming!

B R Y C E C A N Y O N

Checked out Desert Pearl and headed to Panguitch Utah where we'd be staying for a night. Got there sort of late because we took scenic rte. 14 to get there and LOVED driving through the Dixie National Forest. What a green valley! pretty stunning after the arid landscapes of Lake Powell and Zion.

We arrived at Cottonwood MEadow Lodge at MM123 on Rte. 89 and it was a property to remember. I can only describe it as cowboy country and it was a thrill for us to experience this. The property had buildings from over a century ago built by Mormon Settlers. They have been preserved or kept in their original condition - with mountain ranges, pastures, and a beautiful stream runnning through the property, it was breathtaking. It made for a gorgeous backdrop to take pictures of the kids. The property had a chicken coop with many hens and a rooster. they were allowed to walk around freely which was nice to see. The innkeeper gave us some fresh eggs that we cooked for breakfast. All of the hens were different types, some one egg was white, one sort of blue and a couple yellow/brown. delicious. They made a nice campfire for us and we toasted marshmallows and made s'mores in the cool night air. There were gorgeous stormy skys as the sun set and we had a couple of sprinkles on us but were spared rain. AFter the desert heat of LV, LP and Zion, the cool air was welcome (plus there wasn't a pool so this was a good thing -- with all the animals, this was the kids favorite place that we stayed, so pool schmool). In the morning, we awoke and outside our door was Jesse the dog, waiting for us to get up. What a dog! so friendly and just loved all the attention my kids heaped on him - they are dog LOVERS and we don't have one so this was great for them. We wanted to be up early enough to see the foal getting fed. The innkeepers rescued an orphaned foal so they bottle feed him and we got to participate in this. Apparently there is a mustang ranch up in the hills and the mom left her baby - went into heat and took off with a stallion - apprarently very rare. A woman had adopted the foal and couldn't keep her. The lovely innkeeper, a horse lover, had to have this foal and so they feed him with this enormous baby bottle and the kids were right there with their hands on the foals throat feeling him gulp down the milk. They fed the baby and the grown horse and just loved it. We were out in the country doing country things in and amongst beautiful land. We really felt very fortunate for the experience. Time to check out and go to Bryce.

We travlled down scenic byway Rte. 12 - stopped to take some pictures at the Red Canyon area - our first introduction to those red hoodoos! loved this!

Stopped for lunch at Ruby's - what a zoo - DH would have been disappointed if we were staying at this place - he sort of felt it was "Disney-esque" and didn't enjoy the chaotic energy of the place.

Drove into the park - it had been closed for a couple of days before our arrival because of a fire, so changing around my itinerary turned out to be a good thing for many reasons including the fact that we wouldn't have been able to visit had we kept to our original plan.

Checked into our cabin - rustic but sort of cute -- sure, they could certainly update this place, replace those polyester 1970's bedspreads, but the room was clean and it was nice to not have a TV in the room. DD took out her book and started reading while we took a little rest in the room.

We went and took a peak over the rim - oh wow!! DH took the kids on a hike down Navajo Loop to the tree and up the same way. Had to carry DS on his shoulders on the way up but DD did the whole thing herself and was proud as a peacock.

We went and had a decent meal in the Lodge - not a gastronomic tour by any sense, but more than passable. Went to see the sunset at the rim (cloudy night so maybe not as good as it could be but certainly stunning) and went to the ranger talk. DS didn't last too long - it was a talk on astronomy and he just kept asking me when the movie was going to start... we left and went to the lobby and played many games of Candyland and Chutes and Ladders while DD and DH listened to the talk. They joined us for some games and then off to bed.

Around midnight I was unfortunately awoken by the sound of mouse/mice eating our food. I was a little freaked by this and had a hard time getting back to sleep. Kept thinking of mice chewing through the gas line to the gas fireplace and all of us blowing up during the night .... clearly, my sleep deprived mind was getting the best of me - although I have heard of mice chewing through power lines.

Went for breakfast in the morning, checked out and then off for a hike. The day before the skys were cloudy and overcast - today, not a cloud in the sky and let me tell you the contrast of those orange hoodoos on the bluest of blue skys was something to behold. Much more stunning than the day before and jaw dropping beautiful. DD really wanted to go on the Navajo Loop again so that I could experience what she had so off we went. Went down the Wall Street side (apparently we should have done it the opposite way for heat reasons, but it was all fine) and up the other side. Had to carry DS up piggyback which was grueling but totally worth it - I will never forget those skys against the hoodoos - this was what was most captivating for me. I loved the pride I saw in my daughter for her achievement to do this fairly strenuous hike (twice!).

Hard to draw comparisons between Lake Powell, Zion and Bryce - I feel fortunate to have experienced them all. The beauty at Bryce is perhaps more intense than at Zion, but at Zion it is all around you where at Bryce you have to go to it and look in upon it or climb down into it. Zion's beauty was more readily accessible even if you weren't hiking. Just a brief impression. I couldn't tell you which we liked best - they were all so different and had so much to offer. I am most thankful for our Lake Powell days as those are the ones that weren't meant to be until getting feedback from you all to shorten the amount of time in Vegas.

Left Bryce, travelling toward St. George - went through the East Gate of Zion NP again - just had to see these vistas again one more time. Loved checkerboard mesa and all of it.

S T. G E O R G E

Arrived in St. George late in the afternoon, did some grocery shopping and check in at The Inn at Entrada. Our 2 bedroom casita is VERY comfortable. Full kitchen set up - nice to cook our own meals after so many restaurant meals - full laundry, high end and very luxurious - even much nice in person than pictures on the website depict. The kids went for a swim with DH (in the High School Musical 2 pool!!) while I did some laundry and unpacked.

Then off to Tuacahn for Annie! -- WOW!! what a treat. For anyone travelling anywhere near St. George - DO NOT MISS this theatre. It is outdoors with red canyons all around you - obviously supported by some very wealthy benefactors because this place was the best of the best. The sets were unbelievable, the orchestra so so good, and the acting so professional. Perhaps our expectations were off - we were blown away. The kids, even 3.5 yo DS were rapt. Yes, it had been very hot in St. George that day. But we all had showers before we left and we very comfortable throughout the performance - totally doable and so completely worth it.

Enjoyed the pool this morning at Entrada. DD made friends with another 7 year old. I read my book in the shade and was completely comfortable despite the 100+ weather.

We are in love with Utah. I see this as a place where fewer bad things happen - maybe I am romanticizing it all?. Is it the Mormon influence? I don't know - just love the feeling of this place and the natural beauty that is all around.

We head back to Boston tomorrow. One of the first long trips we've taken where I'd actually like to stay even longer.

THANK YOU so very much for all of your help in our trip planning!!!!!!!!

What a great trip report. You are right...being in the midst of all that natural beauty just does something to you.
I hope you went outside when it was dark at Bryce to see all the stars. We got up early for the sunrise at the Grand Canyon and at Bryce. The colors changing in the hoodoos at sun rise was amazing at Bryce.

I agree. Great report and it sounds like a great trip!

MY

I'm so glad your trip exceeded your expectations! Now I really need to get to a play at Tuacahn.

Certainly enjoyed your trip report, and totally agree that Utah has so much natural beauty. We love all the national parks; I'm totally unable to pick a favorite, because each one is different. If/when you get back to Utah, be sure to visit Arches and Capitol Reef. Our son and his family live in St. George, but we have yet to get to Tuacahn. Maybe next time we visit. Oh, and Desert Pearl is definitely one of our favorite places to stay!

Loved your report and so glad that Utah was such a wonderful vacation for you. We feel incredibly fortunate to now live here as it had always been one of my very favorite states, since 1969 when I had my first magical experience at Lake Powell.
Even living at Lake Tahoe & in the Caribbean for years (loved them both) I was always excited to visit UT. It has a "good for soul" affect on me.

When we retired to Cedar City 4 yeas ago we couldn't wait to have Bryce, Zion & Lake Powell practically in our backyard, but were a bit concerned about the reception we might receive from our LDS neighbors, not being members of the Mormon church ourselves and having retired from a lifetime in the casino business. We needn't have worried; when the large moving van pulled up in front of our new home, 3 SUU students from the Mormon family across the street, immediately came over, introduced themselves and enthusiastically insisted on helping, which pretty much sums up their philosophy of politeness, hard work & giving back.

In addition to the parks, lakes, canyonlands & mountains, we've also come to love SLC and Temple Square. Attending the Mormon Tabernacle Choir Christmas program was the thrill of a lifetime.
We love traveling the country, but also know that we don't have to go far from home to have Mother Nature take our breath away.
We look forward to your future trip report from Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef.....back to the Road Atlas!

What a great trip!!!

I can't remember if you were the one who got freaked by Horseshoe Bend not having a fence and decided not to go.

When can we see your photos?

Thanks everyone for your kind wishes! We are packing up and getting ready to go home.

I will certainly post a link to some pictures so please check back.

Myer, yes it was me who had the freak out! we never went to Horseshoe Bend - will save it for another trip when the kids aren't so little. We managed to come out of this trip with only a few minor scrapes and scratches - but not even get a sunburn for any of us.

Loved your trip report! We've never been to Utah, but are considering it for next year, when our kiddo will be 3. Your trip report will be a great resource for us!

Great report, that is a fantastic part of the world. Glad you had a fantastic time, now you can try flying into Vegas and going over to Grand Canyon or into Albuquerque and up to Santa Fe, Taos Pueblo, Bandelier NP, Mesa Verde or Arches and Canyonlands, or some of the off the Beaten path areas in the Four corners area. I find it kind of like potato chips, you can't do just one trip.

M & D paige,

So glad you had a great time and loved Utah. Those of us who live here do too! Come again and spend more time, you can never have enough.

Whew, I'm tired just reading your report.

Thanks for the effort posting this. As
a kid, I was involved in similar family road
trips. Now, as an adult, I enjoy revisiting
all the places we went and spending more time
exploring them. I'm sure it will be the same
for your kids. Trips like this are a great
gift to your children and will have life long
benefits.

Again, thanks for the effort....loved the report

Oops...sorry, My reply above was supposed to be
for another thread.

Wanted to thank you SO much for your trip report! We are camping in the Utah National Parks with two boys (13 and 10)and now will definately add a rented boat w/camping in Lake Powell as a result of your advice. The boys will be thrilled!
Our National Parks are such a gift - spread the word!

Topping this post for dontknow!!