Trip Report: San Juan's,Vancouver Isl.,& Olympic peninsula
#1
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Trip Report: San Juan's,Vancouver Isl.,& Olympic peninsula
I'm moving this to Wa. section. If interested ,I'll continue it.Message: Because of others help here I will post our recent experieces.
Day 1: Arrived in Seattle (from Atlanta)around 10:45 to a rainy chilly day. Rented a car (upgraded to a Hyundai-not bad)and drove to Anacortes for ferry. We needed to stop and get a supply of water and my wife wanted to eat, but I was worried about getting on the ferry so we stopped at roadside fruit stands and had cherries and plums for lunch.
Just as we got to Anacortes the sun came out and stayed for our entire trip. Great weather highs around 70 to 75 and lows around 50. We had no problem getting on the ferry to the San Juans. We arrived at Orcas Isl. around 4:30 p.m. and drove out to our Inn. A beautiful drive so we stopped often for picture taking. Our B&B was the Spring Bay Inn just pass Rosarios (which seemed somewhat overrated, but nice). Spring Bay is right on the water and has a beautiful setting. Very Nice room with fireplace and they have a hot tube right near the water. There was no social hour (as some reported),but cookies , tea and coffee were available. We travel to MANY B&Bs, this one might make our top ten list. The property is right next to Moran state park and there are great walking trails (and views) everywhere.We went back to the town of Eastland for dinner at the Sunflower Café. A cute restaurant ,but not all that good. I would describe it as a brown pair of shoes with a black tuxedo. Things just didnt seem to go together. Fresh fish, but with terrible sauces, appetizers that were too original, etc. If the chef would GBTTBs, it might turn into a nice restaurant.
Day two:
Around 7:30 coffee, juices, freshly baked pastries, granola, etc. are outside our door. At 8:30 the owners then take you on a 2 hour kayaking tour around the Island. Bald eagles are everywhere and there was a seal munching on a leg of a giant squid . A wonderful time. When the kayaks returned we were all welcomed with a great brunch! We highly recommend this Inn and we will return.
We took a ferry to Friday Harbor (San Juan Island). The harbor area reminded us of arriving in St. Thomas or some other tourist trap port town. While they had more shops than Orcas, most were (IOHO) either too expensive or too tacky. However,those in their 20s & 30s (who like the bar scene) would probably like this area more than Orcas. Since we walked on the ferry (no cost) we rented mopeds and headed towards the other side of the Island to see if we could spot some Orca wales. On the way we stopped at a lavender farm and a wool making shop (both worth a short detour). When we got to the other side we were blessed with some fantastic views. It reminded us of a cross of the Carmel/Monterey area and the Oregon coast. Quite breathtaking! The road lead right to Kiln park and there was a lot of excitement as we arrived. Wales were everywhere! We got so close to some that it seemed that we could almost pet them (a slight exaggeration, but they were quite close). A beautiful sight. We returned to Friday Harbor and had one of our best meals of the entire vacation. About three blocks up from the pier is a hidden gem called the Backdoor Kitchen . Aa small place,but dont let the restaurant's size dissuade you. This tiny kitchen puts out a remarkable variety of multi-ethnic soups, salads, and entrées. Organic, naturally leavened breads are baked daily and their food was surprisingly good. We took the ferry back to Orcas in time to check into our next B&B and try Christinas for dinner, but that will have to wait until my next installment.
Day 1: Arrived in Seattle (from Atlanta)around 10:45 to a rainy chilly day. Rented a car (upgraded to a Hyundai-not bad)and drove to Anacortes for ferry. We needed to stop and get a supply of water and my wife wanted to eat, but I was worried about getting on the ferry so we stopped at roadside fruit stands and had cherries and plums for lunch.
Just as we got to Anacortes the sun came out and stayed for our entire trip. Great weather highs around 70 to 75 and lows around 50. We had no problem getting on the ferry to the San Juans. We arrived at Orcas Isl. around 4:30 p.m. and drove out to our Inn. A beautiful drive so we stopped often for picture taking. Our B&B was the Spring Bay Inn just pass Rosarios (which seemed somewhat overrated, but nice). Spring Bay is right on the water and has a beautiful setting. Very Nice room with fireplace and they have a hot tube right near the water. There was no social hour (as some reported),but cookies , tea and coffee were available. We travel to MANY B&Bs, this one might make our top ten list. The property is right next to Moran state park and there are great walking trails (and views) everywhere.We went back to the town of Eastland for dinner at the Sunflower Café. A cute restaurant ,but not all that good. I would describe it as a brown pair of shoes with a black tuxedo. Things just didnt seem to go together. Fresh fish, but with terrible sauces, appetizers that were too original, etc. If the chef would GBTTBs, it might turn into a nice restaurant.
Day two:
Around 7:30 coffee, juices, freshly baked pastries, granola, etc. are outside our door. At 8:30 the owners then take you on a 2 hour kayaking tour around the Island. Bald eagles are everywhere and there was a seal munching on a leg of a giant squid . A wonderful time. When the kayaks returned we were all welcomed with a great brunch! We highly recommend this Inn and we will return.
We took a ferry to Friday Harbor (San Juan Island). The harbor area reminded us of arriving in St. Thomas or some other tourist trap port town. While they had more shops than Orcas, most were (IOHO) either too expensive or too tacky. However,those in their 20s & 30s (who like the bar scene) would probably like this area more than Orcas. Since we walked on the ferry (no cost) we rented mopeds and headed towards the other side of the Island to see if we could spot some Orca wales. On the way we stopped at a lavender farm and a wool making shop (both worth a short detour). When we got to the other side we were blessed with some fantastic views. It reminded us of a cross of the Carmel/Monterey area and the Oregon coast. Quite breathtaking! The road lead right to Kiln park and there was a lot of excitement as we arrived. Wales were everywhere! We got so close to some that it seemed that we could almost pet them (a slight exaggeration, but they were quite close). A beautiful sight. We returned to Friday Harbor and had one of our best meals of the entire vacation. About three blocks up from the pier is a hidden gem called the Backdoor Kitchen . Aa small place,but dont let the restaurant's size dissuade you. This tiny kitchen puts out a remarkable variety of multi-ethnic soups, salads, and entrées. Organic, naturally leavened breads are baked daily and their food was surprisingly good. We took the ferry back to Orcas in time to check into our next B&B and try Christinas for dinner, but that will have to wait until my next installment.
#6
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Trying again.Report #2:
Unfortunately Spring Bay was full and was unable to take us the next day so we booked a room at The Old Trout Pond Inn. When we originally planned this trip we had no intention of adding the Olympic Peninsula to our itinerary. Many of the Fodor posts recommended it, so we decided to go for it. But, this also had me wait too long for some reservations. I also had planned a little longer trip, but I had an important business trip scheduled the day after we arrived home. So, we did try to do too much and we did wait until the last moment for our reservations. My bad, as they say on the basketball courts. Its a little difficult to describe The Old Trout Pond. Its quite different from most B&Bs that we have stayed at. It really reminded us of traveling in France. Not coincidentally, the owners are from France (wife speaks very little English). Strategically, it was a great location. Only about 3 miles from the ferry we checked in within minutes of the ferrys arrival. A nice modern home with a cabin nearby. We were given the downstairs suite. It had a deck directly on the pond. A lovely view. It also had a private hot tub on the deck and a sauna in the bathroom. The suite was sort of like staying at a friends house. Modern furniture, fireplace TV (VCR), entertainment center, small refrigerator, large couch, big bed, breakfast bar, etc. It was our style,but very comfortable with a sundown view to die for. We didnt realize that the owner would prepare special meals, if requested in advance. We later learned that they are suppose to be fabulous. Even if we dont stay there next time, we are going to plan on this. We drove to Christinas. Cute restaurant with nice views, its often said to be the best on the Island. While the meal wasnt bad, it was WAY overpriced and nothing to get excited about. On the whole ,we would describe it as overrated and not worth another try. Back at The Old Trout Pond we enjoyed the hot tub on a beautiful night and ended our second day.
Unfortunately Spring Bay was full and was unable to take us the next day so we booked a room at The Old Trout Pond Inn. When we originally planned this trip we had no intention of adding the Olympic Peninsula to our itinerary. Many of the Fodor posts recommended it, so we decided to go for it. But, this also had me wait too long for some reservations. I also had planned a little longer trip, but I had an important business trip scheduled the day after we arrived home. So, we did try to do too much and we did wait until the last moment for our reservations. My bad, as they say on the basketball courts. Its a little difficult to describe The Old Trout Pond. Its quite different from most B&Bs that we have stayed at. It really reminded us of traveling in France. Not coincidentally, the owners are from France (wife speaks very little English). Strategically, it was a great location. Only about 3 miles from the ferry we checked in within minutes of the ferrys arrival. A nice modern home with a cabin nearby. We were given the downstairs suite. It had a deck directly on the pond. A lovely view. It also had a private hot tub on the deck and a sauna in the bathroom. The suite was sort of like staying at a friends house. Modern furniture, fireplace TV (VCR), entertainment center, small refrigerator, large couch, big bed, breakfast bar, etc. It was our style,but very comfortable with a sundown view to die for. We didnt realize that the owner would prepare special meals, if requested in advance. We later learned that they are suppose to be fabulous. Even if we dont stay there next time, we are going to plan on this. We drove to Christinas. Cute restaurant with nice views, its often said to be the best on the Island. While the meal wasnt bad, it was WAY overpriced and nothing to get excited about. On the whole ,we would describe it as overrated and not worth another try. Back at The Old Trout Pond we enjoyed the hot tub on a beautiful night and ended our second day.
#7
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I continue,#3ay 3:
Because of our tight schedule we were up early. The owner fixed us a continental style breakfast. His full course breakfast was due to be served later (our loss). We wanted to spend some time on the Island before our afternoon ferry to Victoria (Sidney). The owner said that we could come back later and shower/clean up (nice of him) so we planned some hiking. We drove to Mt. Constitution. We drove to the top. Breathtaking views. We did some hiking around there (deers everywhere). We drove to the Moran State Park and found a great trail right near the exit arch (right side as you leave). It was a beautiful rainforest with giant trees and ferns everywhere. My wife would walk around many of the trees to size them up. Many we 40+ steps around. We experienced a wonderfully special time back in the forest. Later we cleaned up and my wife wanted to try the shopping before we left. We headed back to Eastsound (the only real shopping area). The town is cute, but shopping is limited. We ate lunch at a small outdoor Asian Restaurant called The Kitchen. Only average at best. We then headed to the ferry. You must have a reservation to go to Sidney and we did. But, you really dont need to arrive 1 ½ hours before the departure time. Thirty minutes would have been fine. The ferry area has a couple little souvenir shops and a nice ice cream stand . I had them make me a fresh cone and had the ice cream in a fresh warm cone. One of the best things I ate on the Island. Yummy.
*Overall impressions of the San Juans: Orcas was worthy of another trip. We would want to plan on 2 or 3 nights at the Spring Bay Inn and relax a little. We probably would not go back to San Juan Island. We did stop by Turtleback Farm Inn. A nice pastoral setting and seemed like a nice B&B. Not quite the quality of Spring Bay, but a nice alternative.
Arriving on the ferry and the trip is effortless. Because of customs, it took us almost 45 minutes to depart the dock area in Sidney. I was learning something that regulars seemed to know. If you are directed move your car up the right or left ramps on the ship, youll get off last. Although you may be one of the first to get on, you may be one of the last to get off. What I did after this was tell the ferry employee that I had a tight schedule and asked to stay on the main floor. This worked fine and saved some time (especially coming back to the US). The drive to the heart of Victoria took about 20-25 minutes , It had been some 20 years since we had been to Victoria. Its still a beautiful city, but one thing did change. Shopping!!!! My wifes eyes got bigger as she saw all the shopping near the downtown harbor. As I explained the exchange she suggested that we hit the shops right after dinner. For once I had been prepared and had made reservations at a restaurant highly recommended . Café Brio is a beautiful restaurant and its food was superb. My wife had a four course vegetarian meal,that she loved. I had the normal 4 course special meal. Each course included a glass of wine. With the exchange my meal was only $24! Viva the exchange rate! We highly recommend Café Brio and suggest an outside table. Then the shopping began until 9pm (closing time for most). With our car loaded down with as many purchases my wife could make in two hours we started on our drive up the Island to Parksville. Only thing of note was a long construction delay about 30 minutes out of Victoria.
Because of our tight schedule we were up early. The owner fixed us a continental style breakfast. His full course breakfast was due to be served later (our loss). We wanted to spend some time on the Island before our afternoon ferry to Victoria (Sidney). The owner said that we could come back later and shower/clean up (nice of him) so we planned some hiking. We drove to Mt. Constitution. We drove to the top. Breathtaking views. We did some hiking around there (deers everywhere). We drove to the Moran State Park and found a great trail right near the exit arch (right side as you leave). It was a beautiful rainforest with giant trees and ferns everywhere. My wife would walk around many of the trees to size them up. Many we 40+ steps around. We experienced a wonderfully special time back in the forest. Later we cleaned up and my wife wanted to try the shopping before we left. We headed back to Eastsound (the only real shopping area). The town is cute, but shopping is limited. We ate lunch at a small outdoor Asian Restaurant called The Kitchen. Only average at best. We then headed to the ferry. You must have a reservation to go to Sidney and we did. But, you really dont need to arrive 1 ½ hours before the departure time. Thirty minutes would have been fine. The ferry area has a couple little souvenir shops and a nice ice cream stand . I had them make me a fresh cone and had the ice cream in a fresh warm cone. One of the best things I ate on the Island. Yummy.
*Overall impressions of the San Juans: Orcas was worthy of another trip. We would want to plan on 2 or 3 nights at the Spring Bay Inn and relax a little. We probably would not go back to San Juan Island. We did stop by Turtleback Farm Inn. A nice pastoral setting and seemed like a nice B&B. Not quite the quality of Spring Bay, but a nice alternative.
Arriving on the ferry and the trip is effortless. Because of customs, it took us almost 45 minutes to depart the dock area in Sidney. I was learning something that regulars seemed to know. If you are directed move your car up the right or left ramps on the ship, youll get off last. Although you may be one of the first to get on, you may be one of the last to get off. What I did after this was tell the ferry employee that I had a tight schedule and asked to stay on the main floor. This worked fine and saved some time (especially coming back to the US). The drive to the heart of Victoria took about 20-25 minutes , It had been some 20 years since we had been to Victoria. Its still a beautiful city, but one thing did change. Shopping!!!! My wifes eyes got bigger as she saw all the shopping near the downtown harbor. As I explained the exchange she suggested that we hit the shops right after dinner. For once I had been prepared and had made reservations at a restaurant highly recommended . Café Brio is a beautiful restaurant and its food was superb. My wife had a four course vegetarian meal,that she loved. I had the normal 4 course special meal. Each course included a glass of wine. With the exchange my meal was only $24! Viva the exchange rate! We highly recommend Café Brio and suggest an outside table. Then the shopping began until 9pm (closing time for most). With our car loaded down with as many purchases my wife could make in two hours we started on our drive up the Island to Parksville. Only thing of note was a long construction delay about 30 minutes out of Victoria.
#8
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You said "Christinas. ...it was WAY overpriced and nothing to get excited about. On the whole we would describe it as overrated and not worth another try. " I think you are being too kind to this Christina's place. Yes it is very very overpriced. But the food is something only fit for my dogs. Horrid is the only word for it..... and expensive horrid.
#12
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we also just returned from the islands. We stayed at the Turtleback Farm Inn (4 nights) and highly highly recommend it. The Orchard house (newly build on the property) has great rooms with private patios, large rooms with wonderful beds and very large bathrooms. As the above poster we ate at Christinas, enjoyed the atmosphere but too expensive and small portions. We very much enjoyed Sean Paul, on the other side of the island, with wonderful views towards Canada, and excellent food.
We rented bikes and took them on the ferry to Lopez island, great views, fun people and a great workout.
We also spend a day in San Juan, also enjoyed the views, but no need to go back there. Orcas is for sure the nicest island. we kayaked one day at Deer harbor, hiked in Moran park. Great vacation, can't wait to get back.
We rented bikes and took them on the ferry to Lopez island, great views, fun people and a great workout.
We also spend a day in San Juan, also enjoyed the views, but no need to go back there. Orcas is for sure the nicest island. we kayaked one day at Deer harbor, hiked in Moran park. Great vacation, can't wait to get back.
#16
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Continuing...Days 4 & 5
Parksville.We were staying with friends in a home overlooking a bay. Most people come to this area for the beach area. We decided to head out early to Tofino. I read that many people loved this area and since we seemed relatively close, we headed out on a 85 mile trip. A 2-½ hour 85 mile trip! One road, few passing areas and many trucks make for a very long trip. About half way there the weather changed and became rainy/cloudy. Just as we arrived to the town the sun came out and it was a beautiful day. We had lunch in town (average) , went a few shops (VERY few there), visited a beautiful ocean front resort and walked along the water. Our general consensus was, is this all there is?. I think that we possibly expected too much. It does have a nice bay area in town and a wonderful coast line. Possibly, if we hadnt just arrived from Orcas (and San Juans coastline) ,we might have been more impressed. I think that we would have enjoyed going to the natural springs (we brought suits & towels), but couldnt spend the 5+ hours doing it (let alone the $85/person cost). I actually think that I would like this area more if I could be there in storm season. Many stay there and watch the storms come in and see massive waves hit the rocks. Because of the difficulty and time to get there ,I wouldnt recommend this part of the trip, unless you plan to spend more time there.
During our trip back we stopped at a very nice (worth it)rain forest walk. Its marked on the road and its less than 2 miles round trip.We then did a quick clean up and checked out the area. We went to Qualicum Beach to eat. Cute town,but the restaurant Three Js(name?) was average to poor. The next day we started back in Qualicum for a little shopping (love that exchange) and there was a festival at there beach area. Great fresh salmon sandwiches , beautiful views of the water and Whistler and wonderful weather made for a pleasant time. That afternoon we had fun at Parksville annual sand castle festival . We had dinner in Qualicum at their health store (small outdoor dining) and had the best meal of this area.
We love our friends and are glad that we get to see them back in Georgia quite often. But, between the ferry time and drive there,we dont expect to go back. Mid-island is especially great for beach people who love mountain views in the background. I might call it a 2 or 3 star beach vacation for those that enjoy those things.
Parksville.We were staying with friends in a home overlooking a bay. Most people come to this area for the beach area. We decided to head out early to Tofino. I read that many people loved this area and since we seemed relatively close, we headed out on a 85 mile trip. A 2-½ hour 85 mile trip! One road, few passing areas and many trucks make for a very long trip. About half way there the weather changed and became rainy/cloudy. Just as we arrived to the town the sun came out and it was a beautiful day. We had lunch in town (average) , went a few shops (VERY few there), visited a beautiful ocean front resort and walked along the water. Our general consensus was, is this all there is?. I think that we possibly expected too much. It does have a nice bay area in town and a wonderful coast line. Possibly, if we hadnt just arrived from Orcas (and San Juans coastline) ,we might have been more impressed. I think that we would have enjoyed going to the natural springs (we brought suits & towels), but couldnt spend the 5+ hours doing it (let alone the $85/person cost). I actually think that I would like this area more if I could be there in storm season. Many stay there and watch the storms come in and see massive waves hit the rocks. Because of the difficulty and time to get there ,I wouldnt recommend this part of the trip, unless you plan to spend more time there.
During our trip back we stopped at a very nice (worth it)rain forest walk. Its marked on the road and its less than 2 miles round trip.We then did a quick clean up and checked out the area. We went to Qualicum Beach to eat. Cute town,but the restaurant Three Js(name?) was average to poor. The next day we started back in Qualicum for a little shopping (love that exchange) and there was a festival at there beach area. Great fresh salmon sandwiches , beautiful views of the water and Whistler and wonderful weather made for a pleasant time. That afternoon we had fun at Parksville annual sand castle festival . We had dinner in Qualicum at their health store (small outdoor dining) and had the best meal of this area.
We love our friends and are glad that we get to see them back in Georgia quite often. But, between the ferry time and drive there,we dont expect to go back. Mid-island is especially great for beach people who love mountain views in the background. I might call it a 2 or 3 star beach vacation for those that enjoy those things.
#17
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Day 6
Up early for our drive to Sydney ferry. If you have a reservation, you could comfortably be there 30 minutes before sailing. Not knowing this, we wasted an extra hour in line. We walked for awhile, but theres really nothing there except an overpriced gift/snack tourist trap. From this point of the trip on, we were winging it. As little as a week ago I had checked many B&Bs in different locations and felt confident that wed get into a good one wherever we landed. By the end of the day, my confidence was shattered. I forgot two things: When there are beautiful DRY summer weekends in Seattle ,the natives will head out. And, that there was a large boat festival along the Puget Sound that weekend (its now Sunday).
We, that is I,also underestimated the time to get to my next stop. This time was especially pressed by a late ferry (yes, they do leave late) disembarkation. My plan was to leave Anacortes at 1:30 and drive up to Keystone for the 3:00pm ferry to Port Townsend., maybe even get lucky and get the 2:15 one! It seemed reasonable to me. We were suppose to arrive at 1:25 and I should be able to make the 40 miles or so in no time. I can still remember telling my wife, no problem, Ive got it all figured out. What I didnt figure was sitting in a customs line until 2:00 and how many people love to go to Deception Pass (same road) on a beautiful Sunday afternoon. Trying to prove my plan I put on my aggressive driving hat and attempted to make the 3pm ferry
Up early for our drive to Sydney ferry. If you have a reservation, you could comfortably be there 30 minutes before sailing. Not knowing this, we wasted an extra hour in line. We walked for awhile, but theres really nothing there except an overpriced gift/snack tourist trap. From this point of the trip on, we were winging it. As little as a week ago I had checked many B&Bs in different locations and felt confident that wed get into a good one wherever we landed. By the end of the day, my confidence was shattered. I forgot two things: When there are beautiful DRY summer weekends in Seattle ,the natives will head out. And, that there was a large boat festival along the Puget Sound that weekend (its now Sunday).
We, that is I,also underestimated the time to get to my next stop. This time was especially pressed by a late ferry (yes, they do leave late) disembarkation. My plan was to leave Anacortes at 1:30 and drive up to Keystone for the 3:00pm ferry to Port Townsend., maybe even get lucky and get the 2:15 one! It seemed reasonable to me. We were suppose to arrive at 1:25 and I should be able to make the 40 miles or so in no time. I can still remember telling my wife, no problem, Ive got it all figured out. What I didnt figure was sitting in a customs line until 2:00 and how many people love to go to Deception Pass (same road) on a beautiful Sunday afternoon. Trying to prove my plan I put on my aggressive driving hat and attempted to make the 3pm ferry
#18
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Day 6 continues...As we rapidly went over Deception Pass my wife was heard mumbling something about glad we came here last year. I half-hearted asked if she wanted to quickly stop and get a picture. I was on a mission; the 3:00 pm ferry! Three minutes to go and five miles away I tuned on the radio to hear the small band ferry report. I couldnt hear it all, but I heard the magic word late! I, at least for the next 3 minutes , felt like a conquering hero! See honey, I knew that we could make it. I then saw something I didnt plan on ( are you catching a pattern here?). I started passing up a long, long, LONG line of cars all stopped in line for the ferry. We got in line and my wife and a lady from the car behind us ( I passed them up about 2 miles back) took the walk to scout out the situation. I brought out my list of last weeks available top-notch B&Bs and began the calls. By the time my wife returned, I had exhausted almost all my possibilities as they all told me full. This wasnt the only bad news. My wife now reported that indeed the 3:00 ferry was late ,but the best we could hope for was the 4:30 ferry! I was ready to give up. Lets stay in Langley. We loved it last year. A few calls later, we knew that this wasnt the answer. As we inched up we got a call on the cell. It was a B&B in Port Townsend with a late cancel. Well take it!.My wife was speaking to me again. We would make the 3:45. Life was good again. Well,at least for awhile. Arriving in Port Townsend we took a fast drive through the town and liked what we saw. Of course, my plan on giving my wife some time to hit the neat little shops here at a snag or two. Not only were they all closing as we arrived, but I had plans on an early start tomorrow before they were to open.We drove to our B&B, The Ann Starrett Mansion. I remember many gudes saying that this was one of the best of the bests. A winner of many awards,I couldnt have been more fortunate. That is unless you hat to stay in stuffy, fru-fru and overly gaudy museums (just a personal-really two persons-opinion).We had the large Master Suite with a water view ( I dare you to find it). We,however, had a great dinner at Lonnies (recommend) and really think the town is very worth another trip.We did stop at the Old Consolute Inn (booked)and it seemed like it would have been a better choice (although not nearly the best choice for the general area). The Inn where An Officer & a gentleman was filmed was also a nice looking place to stay .
Tomorrow, our final full day at Olympic Ntl Park and Seattle .
Tomorrow, our final full day at Olympic Ntl Park and Seattle .
#19
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Jabez, interesting report and I agree with you about the AS Mansion in Port Townsend. It's too over the top for me. I would far rather stay in the Harborside motor inn, with a modern room and a balcony directly overlooking the water or in the Swan Inn (if it were any closer to the water it would be a houseboat). PT is definitely worth another visit, hopefully you'll make it a longer one!