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Trip Report: San Francisco, Monterey, Yosemite, Lake Tahoe, Reno

Trip Report: San Francisco, Monterey, Yosemite, Lake Tahoe, Reno

Old Jun 17th, 2005, 07:50 AM
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Trip Report: San Francisco, Monterey, Yosemite, Lake Tahoe, Reno

Just returned from a great trip (May 28-June 10) and owe much of its success to what I learned here. Following is a report to enrich the Travel Talk archives:

SAN FRANCISCO (4 nights)
What a gorgeous city! It was my fourth visit (previously business travel) but Mr. Sluggo's first. We enjoyed cool sunny days and wore layers because conditions varied by location and time of day.

Highlights: SF Giants game (those Gilroy Garlic Fries are mighty fragrant!), an Alcatraz tour (7 pm, the lighting was pleasing and the audio program outstanding), a 3-hr. city-wide bus tour, the old Castro Theatre, the one-of-a-kind food shops in the Ferry Bldg., the seals at Fisherman's Wharf and just walking around (and up and down) Golden Gate Park, Chinatown, North Beach, The Castro, The Haight (Mr. Sluggo liked Amoeba Music)--and of course our Cow Hollow/Marino neighborhoods.

The only disappointment was the Conservatory of Flowers, which is beautiful outside but actually has way more plants than flowers inside.

We made a day trip north of the city, to beautiful Muir Woods and some of the beach towns, beautiful Pt. Reyes National Seashore and Sausalito. Morning/early afternoon fog obliterated most of the vistas from the very twisty roads in some areas but we had the right spirit, opening the sun roof and attempting to sing the Mamas and Papas' "California Dreamin'," although it wasn't LA -- or "on such a winters day" for that matter!

The city has an affordable smorgasboard of public transportation -- llight rail, buses and so forth. (You can call Muni and they'll tell you what buses will take you to your destinations and where to find them.) Leaving the city by car we tried unsuccesfully to find Robin Williams' house in Seaside then watched a lone surfer at Ocean Beach.

I highly recommend a book I read on the trip: "The Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill" by Mark Bittner, who writes about his unusual relationship with the birds in the city. It's touching, funny and thoughtful. See the movie, too!

Lodging: Cow Hollow Motor Inn. ($108; $136 Sat.) Enjoyed our stay very much. Great (and flat!) location with free parking and close to great restaurants, nice neighborhoods, the gorgeous Palace of Fine Arts, the Golden Gate Bridge and bus stops. We had a spacious corner room with a bay window and although I usually can't
sleep unless it's almost silent outside, I was so tired every night the traffic noise was not a concern.

Dining: The Parma, a small Italian restaurant next door to the Inn on Steiner, was our favorite in SF. They're open for dinner only; we ate there twice. We thought Mel's Drive-in Diner on Lombard was overpriced and the service poor. (You don't deliver cold toast to the table, especially 10 minutes before the main dish.) Much better in terms of price, service and food was a place (I wish I'd noted the name) a few doors away from the hotel. In the Castro, The Sausage Factory down the hill from the theater was pretty good. In the Haight, we liked All You Knead (the Dylan tunes set the right mood). North of the city, we had a surprisingly delicious lunch at the little
Parkside Cafe in Stinson Beach. And at The Spinnaker in Sausalito, we had a terrific dinner and service with an unforgettable view of San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge and, through the haze, Oakland and the Oakland Bridge!

Next: Monterey
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Old Jun 17th, 2005, 07:51 AM
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MONTEREY PENINSULA (3 nights)
Good, cool weather continued (60s and 70s), with overcast skies or fog into the afternoon. Our first stop was the
Monterey Aquarian, which we liked (especially the sea otters). We then played "If I Won the Lottery" while
driving around the beautiful Carmel Beach neighorhoods.

I'd been on the 17-mile drive and Mr. Sluggo decided he'd like to see it despite the $8.50 price tag. The
overcast skies finally broke and he was glad we went. Other highlights include the picturesque drive down Hwy. 1 to Big Sur and the Julia Pfeiffer Burns park (with the beautiful McWay waterfall pouring into the Pacific). Pt. Lobos State Park is gorgeous and at some trail heads it took a little patience to find a parking space.

One of the highlights of our entire trip was a nearly two-hour nature cruise with Elkhorn Slough Safari in Moss Landing. Our pontoon boat sailed close to literally dozens of sea otters, harbor seals, sea lions, pelicans, cormorants, egrets and more and the friendly captain and nature expert talked about what we were seeing. This was one of the best nature-oriented trips we've done anywhere.

Every night we'd drive to Sunset Drive in Pacific Grove and watch the sun set while noisy surf spilled over the
craggy rocks. Behind us, mule deer would feed on the Asilomar golf course. Talk about California dreamin'!

Lodging: Pacific Gardens Inn, Pacific Grove. ($135 with cont. bkfst. minus AAA discount) We liked it here. The
room had a king bed, fireplace, small table and chairs, cushioned chair and ottoman, mini fridge, coffee maker
and coffee and popcorn popper (popcorn too). It's a quiet little town, an affordable alternative to Carmel and
Monterey.

Dining: Very good experiences at Hog's Breath and Mission Ranch, both in Carmel. (The latter has a terrific
view of a sheep pasture and the ocean.) Fussy eaters, we didn't care for the Caribbean-influenced seafood
menu at Fishwife in Pacific Grove.

Next: Yosemite
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Old Jun 17th, 2005, 07:53 AM
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YOSEMITE (3 nights)
Since interior California is so different from our home in Connecticut, we enjoyed driving by the farms, wineries, nut trees and mountains between Pacific Grove and the south entrance of the park.

We continued to luck out with great cool weather for this segment of the trip - 60s and 70s by day and sunny, 40s and 50s at night. While the park rivers, creeks and streams were high, there was no flooding. Trail Ridge Road was closed but I believe it will open around July 4.

We arrived at the south gate around 1:30 pm and took a 7-mile tram tour of the sequoias in Mariposa Grove, which I'd recommend as a way to easily see and learn a lot. From there we drove up Glacier Point Road, passing a lot of snow in the trees. We stopped first at Washburn Point and I had to idea what to expect. After moving my dropped jaw back into place, I kept babbling, "ohmygod, ohmyGOD" and got goosebumps. The views of the valley's granite walls and waterfalls, there and at Glacier Point itself, are awesome in every sense of that over-used word. The next great vista is at Tunnel View: waterfalls, El Capitan and Half Dome. Near sunset, the light was just wonderful.

In the valley, the views continue to impress -- huge granite cliffs, thundering waterfalls (especially this spring) and tall cypress and redwood trees. The 2-hr. valley floor tram tour narrated by a Ranger is worthwhile. It's also fun to walk to the base of many waterfalls, but pack a rain poncho.

The only animals we saw were a lot of mule deer, Stellar jays and hungry squirrels. Bears are said to be a real problem (you have to empty your car at night) so Mr. Sluggo was disappointed when we didn't see any.

They encourage people to use free shuttle buses, but service can be frustrating due to their scheduling, crowds and construction. Sometimes day visitors can find legal spots on roadsides. Expect traffic delays from the prescribed burning going on between the valley and south entrance and construction in the valley. At least the scenery is nice while you wait.

An excellent resource in planning this trip was yosemitefun.com

Lodging: Yosemite Lodge (in the Valley; $161) for two nights was comfortable enough and the location excellent. The lodge is actually 14 buildings so views can vary widely, but I could at least hear Yosemite Falls as I fell asleep. You're paying for a convenient location. Our third night was in a riverside room at Yosemite View Lodge in El Portal. ($189; expanded cont. bkfst.) We had an extremely comfortable room with two queen-sized beds, a kitchenette, a balcony over the river (table and two chairs), and a deep tub/shower. The included cont. breakfast offered a good variety.

Dining: The Mountain View Room at Yosemite Lodge was very good with a superb view of Yosemite Falls. (Well, that was my view. Mr. Sluggo got to gaze at me.) Other park options such as the lodge food court and Curry pizza were so-so but we weren't there for fine dining. Yosemite View Lodge in El Portal had good food and a riverside setting.

Next: Lake Tahoe - Vacation takes a bad turn
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Old Jun 17th, 2005, 07:56 AM
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LAKE TAHOE (1 night)
Planning the trip, I fretted needlessly about floods, mountain lions, earthquakes, rock slides and bears. But after more than a week of near perfect weather, I should have guessed when we awoke to dark rain clouds the day we planned to drive to Lake Tahoe that our vacation was about to take a bad turn. Sure enough, the phone rang with disturbing news from home in Connecticut. We decided to keep our schedule for the time being, press on a bit and stay in touch with the family.

With a late start and our upset and distracted state of mind, we could not enjoy the trip up Hwy. 49, Gold Rush
country. (We did stop at an amusing gas station/saloon/grocery store/video rental/bait shop in Chinese Camp.)

Of course we had poor weather (fog, rain, heavy clouds), especially at the higher elevations of Hwy. 88 to Lake
Tahoe, a drive that I am sure is gorgeous in better conditions. As we headed up the west side of the lake
towards our lodging in Tahoe City, the heavily overcast skies and curvy road made it hard to see the lake and what I assume are snow-capped mountains in the background. While I clutched the steering wheel, my co-pilot reported on what he said were impressive timber and stone houses by the lake.

It was late afternoon when we checked in, and an emergency message was waiting for us. The situation was
worse so we decided to return home as soon as possible. America West was full the next day, but we were able to book our return the day after that. Given the circumstances, they kindly waived the re-booking fee ($100 ea.) We cancelled our last night in Tahoe (they also waived a fee) and re-scheduled our Reno hotel.

Lodging: River Ranch Lodge in Tahoe City. ($95; expanded cont. bkfst.) Rooms, with old-fashioned mountain
home decor, are small but the view over the Truckee River is excellent. Staff was friendly and helpful. They have a nice big patio and the included expanded cont. bkfst. was good. It's near Alpine Meadow and Squaw Valley
ski resorts.

Dining: Woods Creek Cafe on Hwy. 49 in Jackson was perfect, with a friendly staff and clientele, good cheap food and a funky, cow-oriented atmosphere.

Next: Reno, wrap-up
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Old Jun 17th, 2005, 07:58 AM
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RENO (1 night)
We tried to make the best of our last day. The lake still was hard to see so we went north, to Truckee. Just up
the highway from our lodging we had a thrilling moment: A large black bear ran across the road not far in front of us and bounded up the bank into the woods. With no cars coming either way, I was able to stop the car and back it into a lot while Mr. Sluggo hopped out (not my idea!) to take photos.

Truckee is a picturesque little town. There we visited Donner Memorial Park, which has a small museum with displays about the ill-fated Donner party (artifacts, too) and the building of the railroad, plus a short film. It's a worthwhile stop.

Mr. Sluggo was curious about Reno so we pressed on and found -- at least the parts we saw -- a slightly
depressed town with some casino hotels, pawn shops, cheap souvenir stores and freight train tracks.

Lodging: El Dorado ($45) was great, especially for the price. We had a large room with a loveseat and
comfortable beds and a 15th floor view towards the airport and mountains.

Dining: Nothing special to share, but it was cheap!

AIRLINE and RENTAL CAR
America West had the best prices, so I chose them. It was cheaper to fly into San Jose than SFO. Our main
frustration was the less than 30-min. connections they schedule when the planes sit at the far ends of different terminals.

Budget had a good price when booked through the airline. I requested an intermediate; we got a Hyundai Sonata. When we've rented cars in the past, we've always re-filled the tank before returning it. This time we
were distracted by our problems and didn't allow enough time, but Mr. Sluggo said it couldn't be much worse
than the $2.99/gallon we paid in Chinese Camp. Well, it was something like $6 and with just a quarter tank in the car we were charged $77, the price of stupidity.

Now back to real life. Thanks again to everyone here who shared their experiences and answered my questions.
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Old Jun 17th, 2005, 09:16 AM
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Great Trip report. Sorry about your family emergency. Those can really weigh you down during a vacation. Did you know they had snow in the sierra's last night!

Utahtea
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Old Jun 17th, 2005, 09:42 AM
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Hello sluggo, I enjoyed your trip report so much and you certainly shared a lot of valuable advise for other travellers.

I am so sorry that your vacation was cut short by a family emergency. That must have so so stressful. I truly hope things are better for your family.

We are having "winter weather" in N Ca this week. Yesterday it rained and today is gloomny and cold. The local news said it has been the wettest June in history. I do not know if that is true or not but it is a strange weather pattern.

I hope you two can return to CA one of these days as it sounds like you really enjoyed your trip until bad family news and bad weather in Tahoe.

Best wishes to you and your family.
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Old Jun 18th, 2005, 05:34 AM
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LOVED your report sluggo, thanks so much for posting! Sounds like you had a GREAT time!
We'll be visiting most of the same places in a few weeks, so i have some questions, if you don't mind?!

Re Elkhorn Slough Safari in Moss Landing. Did you make prior ressies? Which one specifically did you take, and any other tips you can give? We have limited time but would love to squeeze in a tour.

We're also staying one night in Pacific Grove at Assilomar Conference center, chosen for the close proximity to the ocean, tidepools, wildlife etc. Any thoughts having just been there, altho i realize you likely just walked past it?

Fishwife is also on our list of possibilities - is everything there Caribbean-influenced? Also, do most or all the tables at Mission Ranch have a view? For us on vacation, a view and experience is much more important than the actual food. For example, a burger overlooking the pacific is more meaningful than a fabulous filet with no ambiance.

We're also staying in Yosemite Lodge for two nights (three full days). We've been before but not stayed in the park. Since there are 14 buildings, any specific you think we should request that have a view? Do they all have balconies, or patios (if first floor)?

Sorry so many questions but thanks again for your excellent, detailed report Sluggo.
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Old Jun 18th, 2005, 05:39 AM
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Also meant to add how sorry i am your trip was shortened by your family emergency. I do hope things are better now. Thanks again for posting.
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Old Jun 18th, 2005, 07:13 AM
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Thanks for your good wishes, everyone. I'm glad we missed the earthquakes and bad weather. Things are slightly better at home.

Although I won't be much help, I'll try to answer your questions, Ellen...

Being obsessive, I made reservations in advance with Elkhorn Slough to ensure we could go in our limited time there. They have a 24-hr cancel policy. I don't know how many trips they make a day -- not too many, I would think. Check out their website.

Aside from noticing the deer, I really didn't look much at Asilomar. The ocean across the street is gorgeous, of course. If you have to do laundry while you're in Pacific Grove you'll find a 24-hr laundry on the main street downtown.

For us -- as I said we're picky eaters -- the Fishwife menus was too Caribbean. The least objectionable thing on the menu was filet of sole and it came with black beans.

Mission Ranch has a big deck, where the views would be good. Indoors, the window seats have the best views of course. Most of the view is pasture and hills; the ocean is farther away.

At Yosemite Lodge I didn't notice which buildings had the better views or within them, which rooms. We were in the Cottonwood building, in a 1st floor end unit "deluxe" room with a patio with a small table and two chairs. It was next to some bushes but if you went around the corner to the street side of the unit you could just make out the upper part of Upper Yosemite Falls! I really didn't mind not seeing the falls from the room or patio because we saw them every time we went outside.

Enjoy your trip and bring plenty of money!
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Old Jun 18th, 2005, 10:31 AM
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Good content, sluggo. Glad you had favorable experiences in some of my favorite places here. You can buy those garlic fries in some stores, made by Gordon Biersch.

It never occurred to me to search for Robin Williams' house...but I thought it was in Pacific Heights??? I once met a glass man who claimed to have installed the glass with a 180-degree radius for the shower at that home.

Let Mr. Sluggo know that seeing the bears in Yosemite isn't necessarily a great or exciting event.

Las September, a bear ran through our campsite, but we didn't see it because we were all talking and staring at the fire --- so, our eyes weren't adjusted for the darkness of cover Mr. Bear was using to traverse the campground. Having a camera at my side 24x7 didn't help.

I believe you covered most of the better parts of the state during your trip. Nice work.
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Old Jun 18th, 2005, 12:15 PM
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TripleSecDelay, a tour guide said Robin Williams lives in Seaside, in a dark pink house, and that the front yard has shrubbery cut into the shape of a dinosaur that is decorated with lights every Christmas. Since we didn't find the place, I can't say he was right.
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Old Jun 18th, 2005, 01:06 PM
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I've read that there is a metal dinosaur sculpture in front of his house in Sea Cliff. Did you mean Sea Cliff when you wrote Seaside?
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Old Jun 18th, 2005, 01:14 PM
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It is SeaCliff.
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Old Jun 19th, 2005, 04:31 AM
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Great trip report. Hope everything is okay at home.
ellen griswold - The Asilomar Conf Center is a great location. Their grounds are so beautiful. I think its a great choice. The Fishwife is one of our favorite restaurants anywhere! Their menu is so interesting and varied and prices are good. Be sure to try it. We've kayaked in the Elkhorn Slough and it was awesome. We had seals coming over to check us out, thousands of seabirds, it was truly memorable. We just went to Moss Landing and found someone to take us out. Not sure that you need reservations.
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Old Jun 19th, 2005, 05:29 AM
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Thanks for the replies, sluggo and sharondi. Now that our trip is getting closer, i'm starting to second guess everything (anyone else do that?) so i appreciate the affirmation! Any other thoughts or ideas?
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Old Jun 19th, 2005, 10:36 AM
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I don't know what room you booked at Asilomar, standard or superior, but my tip is to check in as close to check in time as possible. I usually try to check in early, i.e. before official check in time. Reason: the non conference rooms are assigned on first come basis. So in order to get a room closest to the ocean and sometimes even a view I check in early. I like to eat at Fishwife, especially when staying at Asilomar because it is a short walk away. Somewhat surprised by the comment that it was too Caribbean--not sure what that means--it never struck me that way. Just a pleasant place to have fish.
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Old Jun 19th, 2005, 11:28 AM
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Hi Sluggo,

Great trip report. I was very interested to read your reviews. We have been in the area before and are planning another trip with friends in April/06. We plan to be in San Fran at the Cow Hollow, also, but in their suites with two bedrooms. Glad to hear you liked it. We stayed in Pacific Grove before in one of the Victorians on the water. Wonderful location, but wanted something more reasonable cost wise this time. We had planned to stay in Carmel and be closer to Rt. 1 but I liked what you had to say about Pacific Gardens.

Would you mind telling me how the traffic was getting from there back and forth to Rt. 1? How far a walk to the beach from there? Are there walkways along the beach as there are by the Victorians? That was a favorite thing for us. We need some amenities but don't need luxury. Was there air conditioning or wouldn't we need it?

Thanks for ANY answers you can give. Sue
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Old Jun 20th, 2005, 05:04 AM
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Now that I know Robin Williams is in Sea Cliff, I know why we didn't find his house in Seaview!

Sue, traffic to/from Rte. 1 was not a problem. The ocean was a few blocks away from the inn. You might even be able to cut through the Asilomar property. Since we were always in the car (we'd go before returning to the inn), I don't remember walkways in that area, just the pullouts for parking. The one criticisim I have about the inn is the weak shower. But the price, location and other amenities were very good.

As for the "Caribbean-inspired" comment RE Fishwife, I think I got that from a write-up I saw in a local guidebook. Not our thing but it's a popular place.
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