Trip Report - My Great American Train Trip
Apr 21st, 2011, 08:39 AM
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Ignoring French quarter Fest, NOLA is still one of my favorite cities for a visit. Because of the huge FQF crowds, I mostly stayed away from the Quarter this time except to go to shows I wanted to see. However, I still had a great time.
I made a visit to the Chalmette Battlefield about 6.5 river miles SE of downtown. For those of you who don't know it by that name, it's the famous battlefield at which Andrew Jackson, Jean Lafitte, and their ragtag army defeated the most professional military force in the world at that time, the British army in the Battle of New Orleans. It was fought in early January, 1815 and was the final battle of the War of 1812. Although numerically superior, the British suffered from bad positioning, bad command decisions, and the need to attack fortified positions across an open field. The result was 333 casualties on the American side and 2,459 on the British. It also made Jackson a national figure and helped propel him into the White House.
It was a bit anti-climactic because the Treaty of Ghent, ending the war, had been signed a few days before the battle began. Communications being what they were at the time, that news did not reach the US for weeks after the battle ended. It is interesting to speculate what might have changed had the British won this battle.
Getting to the battlefield is fun too. From the NOLA waterfront, the Creole Queen makes the 3 hour round trip a couple of times a day. A rear paddlewheel river boat, it is smaller than the Natchez which also does river tours, but I like it better.
Because I enjoy photographing wildlife, I made a trip to City Park and also a swamp tour. Going to City Park is easy - you just catch the Canal Street street car and ride it to the end of the line. City Park was pretty and I could hear a huge number of birds but, because of the heavy foliage, saw and photographed only a few.
The swamp tour I took was with Cajun Encounters and I was more successful in photgraphing a variety of birds and several alligators. They took us on a 45 minute bus ride out to Slidell and then we did a boat tour of the river and Honey Island Swamp. I enjoyed it but it was not as good as the swamp tour I took a few years ago out near New Iberia, LA.
On this trip, we saw several alligators, turtles, a diamond backed river snake, great blue herons, egrets, yellow-crested night herons, white ibis, prothonotary warblers, a sharp-shinned hawk, several species of ducks, and double-crested cormorants. I was able to get photos of most of them but not all.
My hotel was located at Julia and St. Peters streets in the warehouse district. That was a convenient location, only a miles walk to Jackson Square and two blocks from the River Front street car line.
Any adequate report on NOLA has to include food. I had several good meals and I'll comment briefly on them.
Mothers - between the FQ and the warehouse district, they advertise the best baked ham in Louisiana. Whether that is tru or not, it is very, very good. I had a baked ham po-boy that was excellent and a slice of pecan pie that was superb.
PIE - a small bar and restaurant in an old warehouse across the street from my hotel. I stopped the first time because it was convenient. I went back twice more because it was so good. I especially enjoyed a sauteed garlic shrimp and spinich wrap and their speghetti Bolognaise (sp?).
Angelo Brocoto - Because of all the great reviews it has on this and other forums, I made the street car trip out to their Carrollton Avenue location. I'm not sure what the fuss is all about. I had a small scoop of mint chocolate chip ice cream and another of lemon gelato. They were good but nothing special in comparison to many, many other places where I've enjoyed the same thing. I did not try their baked goods so maybe that's the source of their fame.
Sugar House - located on Julia at Commerce in the Warehouse. I had their sea food gumbo and crab cakes and both were excellent.
Landry's in the Quarter. This is more an everyman's seafood house than a fine dining establishment but I enjoy it and eat there at least once on every visit. This time I had their sea food gumbo and a deep-fried breaded crab meat and avocado dish. It doesn't sound that good but I really enjoyed it.
Mulates - in the Warehouse District. Despite its fame, I was disappointed here. I had their crab stuffed mushrooms which were only average, the service was mediocre at best, and their ice tea needed more ice and more tea.
As is always the case, I wasn't ready to leave NOLA but it was time to catch the train and head north to Chicago.
I made a visit to the Chalmette Battlefield about 6.5 river miles SE of downtown. For those of you who don't know it by that name, it's the famous battlefield at which Andrew Jackson, Jean Lafitte, and their ragtag army defeated the most professional military force in the world at that time, the British army in the Battle of New Orleans. It was fought in early January, 1815 and was the final battle of the War of 1812. Although numerically superior, the British suffered from bad positioning, bad command decisions, and the need to attack fortified positions across an open field. The result was 333 casualties on the American side and 2,459 on the British. It also made Jackson a national figure and helped propel him into the White House.
It was a bit anti-climactic because the Treaty of Ghent, ending the war, had been signed a few days before the battle began. Communications being what they were at the time, that news did not reach the US for weeks after the battle ended. It is interesting to speculate what might have changed had the British won this battle.
Getting to the battlefield is fun too. From the NOLA waterfront, the Creole Queen makes the 3 hour round trip a couple of times a day. A rear paddlewheel river boat, it is smaller than the Natchez which also does river tours, but I like it better.
Because I enjoy photographing wildlife, I made a trip to City Park and also a swamp tour. Going to City Park is easy - you just catch the Canal Street street car and ride it to the end of the line. City Park was pretty and I could hear a huge number of birds but, because of the heavy foliage, saw and photographed only a few.
The swamp tour I took was with Cajun Encounters and I was more successful in photgraphing a variety of birds and several alligators. They took us on a 45 minute bus ride out to Slidell and then we did a boat tour of the river and Honey Island Swamp. I enjoyed it but it was not as good as the swamp tour I took a few years ago out near New Iberia, LA.
On this trip, we saw several alligators, turtles, a diamond backed river snake, great blue herons, egrets, yellow-crested night herons, white ibis, prothonotary warblers, a sharp-shinned hawk, several species of ducks, and double-crested cormorants. I was able to get photos of most of them but not all.
My hotel was located at Julia and St. Peters streets in the warehouse district. That was a convenient location, only a miles walk to Jackson Square and two blocks from the River Front street car line.
Any adequate report on NOLA has to include food. I had several good meals and I'll comment briefly on them.
Mothers - between the FQ and the warehouse district, they advertise the best baked ham in Louisiana. Whether that is tru or not, it is very, very good. I had a baked ham po-boy that was excellent and a slice of pecan pie that was superb.
PIE - a small bar and restaurant in an old warehouse across the street from my hotel. I stopped the first time because it was convenient. I went back twice more because it was so good. I especially enjoyed a sauteed garlic shrimp and spinich wrap and their speghetti Bolognaise (sp?).
Angelo Brocoto - Because of all the great reviews it has on this and other forums, I made the street car trip out to their Carrollton Avenue location. I'm not sure what the fuss is all about. I had a small scoop of mint chocolate chip ice cream and another of lemon gelato. They were good but nothing special in comparison to many, many other places where I've enjoyed the same thing. I did not try their baked goods so maybe that's the source of their fame.
Sugar House - located on Julia at Commerce in the Warehouse. I had their sea food gumbo and crab cakes and both were excellent.
Landry's in the Quarter. This is more an everyman's seafood house than a fine dining establishment but I enjoy it and eat there at least once on every visit. This time I had their sea food gumbo and a deep-fried breaded crab meat and avocado dish. It doesn't sound that good but I really enjoyed it.
Mulates - in the Warehouse District. Despite its fame, I was disappointed here. I had their crab stuffed mushrooms which were only average, the service was mediocre at best, and their ice tea needed more ice and more tea.
As is always the case, I wasn't ready to leave NOLA but it was time to catch the train and head north to Chicago.
Apr 22nd, 2011, 08:47 AM
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After a pleasant train ride up from NOLA, I arrived at Chicago's Union Station a few minutes early and was met by a friend from another web site. I had not seen her since a Tucson get together a couple of years ago so it great to renew our acquintance.
After a few minutes organizing logistics, we set out on a walking tour of parts of the loop area. Heading east on Jackson, our first stop was at the Willis Building (previously known as Sears Tower). We made a fast elevator trip up to the 103rd floor, known as the skydeck for a 360 degree view of the city, which was spectacular. Unfortunately the windows were mottled and speckled by previous rains so I was only able to get marginally acceptable photos. They have also built extensions on a few of the windows so, if you're so inclined, you can step out on the plexiglass floor and look straight down 1300 feet to the street. I wasn't so inclined.
Back on the street, we continued east. For me the day was cold and windy. My friend thought it was a pretty nice day. In any event, I wasn't dressed for it and got chilled and had to get off the street to warm up occasionally.
We made a stop at Intelligentsia - a coffe bar on the ground floor of one of the older buildings. I had an excellent breakfast tea and my friend enjoyed her latte.
As we walked, my friend gave me a great deal of information on the architecture of the various buildings we passed and a couple we entered She is a fount of knowledge on Chicago architecture and it was very interesting to hear her.
When we reached Michigan Avenue, we turned north for a block and I was chilled again so we made a stop in the lobby of the Railroad Exchange Building. It is now home to the Chicago Architecture Foundation and the lobby contains a large 3-D model of all of downtown Chicago that we poured over for many minutes. The lobby is also quite ornate and I admired the stair cases and columns in the atrium.
Back on the street, we walked back west on Adams toward Union Station. Along the way, we stopped at the Elephant and Castle pub for lunch where I had a very good turkey cobb salad. We then continued back to Union Station where we wandered a bit, admiring the cavernous old waiting room.
My friend went to catch her train home and I wrote and mailed a few post cards then waited for my on-time departure. After an uneventful trip along the route of the old Santa Fe Trail and Route 66, I arrived in Los Angeles, ending the rail portion of my journey and this trip report.
After a few minutes organizing logistics, we set out on a walking tour of parts of the loop area. Heading east on Jackson, our first stop was at the Willis Building (previously known as Sears Tower). We made a fast elevator trip up to the 103rd floor, known as the skydeck for a 360 degree view of the city, which was spectacular. Unfortunately the windows were mottled and speckled by previous rains so I was only able to get marginally acceptable photos. They have also built extensions on a few of the windows so, if you're so inclined, you can step out on the plexiglass floor and look straight down 1300 feet to the street. I wasn't so inclined.
Back on the street, we continued east. For me the day was cold and windy. My friend thought it was a pretty nice day. In any event, I wasn't dressed for it and got chilled and had to get off the street to warm up occasionally.
We made a stop at Intelligentsia - a coffe bar on the ground floor of one of the older buildings. I had an excellent breakfast tea and my friend enjoyed her latte.
As we walked, my friend gave me a great deal of information on the architecture of the various buildings we passed and a couple we entered She is a fount of knowledge on Chicago architecture and it was very interesting to hear her.
When we reached Michigan Avenue, we turned north for a block and I was chilled again so we made a stop in the lobby of the Railroad Exchange Building. It is now home to the Chicago Architecture Foundation and the lobby contains a large 3-D model of all of downtown Chicago that we poured over for many minutes. The lobby is also quite ornate and I admired the stair cases and columns in the atrium.
Back on the street, we walked back west on Adams toward Union Station. Along the way, we stopped at the Elephant and Castle pub for lunch where I had a very good turkey cobb salad. We then continued back to Union Station where we wandered a bit, admiring the cavernous old waiting room.
My friend went to catch her train home and I wrote and mailed a few post cards then waited for my on-time departure. After an uneventful trip along the route of the old Santa Fe Trail and Route 66, I arrived in Los Angeles, ending the rail portion of my journey and this trip report.
Apr 22nd, 2011, 05:02 PM
#26
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Thank you for your trip report - really enjoyed reading it.
dwooddon, I, too, am guilty of always mentioning about the delays using Amtrak to posters. However, that is not a reflection on Amtrak, because many of those delays are beyond their control.
IMHO, the problem really lies with the traveler - and it wouldn't really matter what type of conveyance they are taking. They simply just don't include enough time in their itineraries for possible travel delays.
dwooddon, I, too, am guilty of always mentioning about the delays using Amtrak to posters. However, that is not a reflection on Amtrak, because many of those delays are beyond their control.
IMHO, the problem really lies with the traveler - and it wouldn't really matter what type of conveyance they are taking. They simply just don't include enough time in their itineraries for possible travel delays.
Apr 23rd, 2011, 09:15 AM
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Hello again dwooddon,
A terrific report. In addition to the train rides, I enjoyed reading about both your New Orleans and Chicago experiences, as it sounds like you covered some ground in both those cities which I have yet to do (Chalmette Battlefield, City Park, Railroad Exchange Building). Sounds like you did a good amount for was it less than 24 hours in Chicago? And I'll have to remember your report for my next trip to New Orleans, what with all your restaurant thoughts!
Best wishes, Daniel
PS I didn't know that the Sears Tower no longer goes by that name, so thanks for educating me.
I've looked on the website, but couldn't figure out, did you pay to take the elevator to the 103rd floor?
A terrific report. In addition to the train rides, I enjoyed reading about both your New Orleans and Chicago experiences, as it sounds like you covered some ground in both those cities which I have yet to do (Chalmette Battlefield, City Park, Railroad Exchange Building). Sounds like you did a good amount for was it less than 24 hours in Chicago? And I'll have to remember your report for my next trip to New Orleans, what with all your restaurant thoughts!
Best wishes, Daniel
PS I didn't know that the Sears Tower no longer goes by that name, so thanks for educating me.
I've looked on the website, but couldn't figure out, did you pay to take the elevator to the 103rd floor?
Apr 23rd, 2011, 10:21 AM
#30
I will certainly look for the Railroad Exchange Building the next time I'm in Chicago.
The ride on the elevator on the Hancock Building on Michigan Ave. is less than the Willis Tower.
The free self guided tour at the Federal Reserve Bank is worthwhile. The FRB is across Jackson Blvd. from the Chicago Board of Trade.
If you can sleep in coach, the USA Railpass for 15 days (8 segments) is still only $389.
Thanks for the good report. Any pictures to come?
The ride on the elevator on the Hancock Building on Michigan Ave. is less than the Willis Tower.
The free self guided tour at the Federal Reserve Bank is worthwhile. The FRB is across Jackson Blvd. from the Chicago Board of Trade.
If you can sleep in coach, the USA Railpass for 15 days (8 segments) is still only $389.
Thanks for the good report. Any pictures to come?
Apr 23rd, 2011, 10:31 AM
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Tom - yes, once they are on my photo web site, I'll post a link here but it will still be a few days away. I took over 400 photos on this trip and it takes me some time to cull them, process the ones I want to keep, and select and reprocess the ones I want to put up on the web site. I'm working on it now but it takes awhile.
Thanks for all the nice comments from you all. I'm glad you enjoyed it or found it useful.
Thanks for all the nice comments from you all. I'm glad you enjoyed it or found it useful.
Apr 25th, 2011, 08:58 PM
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I finally got photos from this trip posted on the web. If you'd like to look at them, they are at http://www.worldisround.com/articles/364794/index.html.
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