Trip report, Asheville NC (before the ice storm)
Dec 12th, 2002, 02:22 PM
#1
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Trip report, Asheville NC (before the ice storm)
We in central N.C. are just now getting back to normal after the ice storm. In case the national media have, as usual, neglected to report what happens outside the northeast corridor, I will tell you that 1.5+ million people were without power, nearly a dozen died, damage estimates are in the hundreds of millions, and it took me a week to get power, phone, and internet back. This may be the south but when it's 15 degrees F., it's COLD. When the heat came back on, the thermostat started at 42 degrees.
Now, about Asheville: Before the ice storm, we had just come back from a charming Thanksgiving in Asheville. We stayed near the entrance to Biltmore at a very reasonably priced Doubletree (love those cookies), had 2 dinners on the Biltmore property and Thanksgiving dinner at Gabriel's in the Richmond Hill Inn. I recommend all of these, although there were some missteps in the food most likely because of the high volume of preparation. The "gem" meal of the 3 days, however, was tapas at Zambra's in downtown Asheville -- four stars there both for food and for value.
Doing the "Candlelight" tour of Biltmore was lovely (if a bit chilly -- take your coats) and we were afraid that coming back to do the tour again by day would be redundant. It was not, because there was much that could not be seen in the candle-lit murk, and plenty we missed because we were admiring the holiday decorations and musicians.
You should be aware (their website is confusing) that if you have bought the "Candlelight Tour" tickets you can come back to the grounds on a next-day pass for free and for an $8. upgrade, you can re-enter the house again to take the audio-headphone tour (worth it). You don't need to buy new tickets, and a good thing at about $36-$40 a pop!
We also took the "Behind the Scenes" tour, which was in many ways the best -- small group, someone to answer questions, and very interesting exploration.
The Winery, on the other hand, is a bit of a joke -- all those medals and awards on the walls and only one or two 1st place/Blue Ribbons -- with good reason! Only their reserve labels are at all remarkable, but you'll probably enjoy the end-of-(very short, unguided)tour tasting anyway, even if their "vin" is quite "ordinaire" sometimes. You can pay money for a higher quality reserve-label tasting inside, and this is probably worth it for some.
Cautions: arrive early, early. On special days, it opens a little before the posted time and it's worth getting there at that time. By noon time on the day after Thanksgiving one could scarcely move around the area in the stable with the small shops. Also, there's an awful lot of touristy dreck for sale, but you may find one or two things (usually foodstuffs) worth the money.
Don't miss the rest of Asheville, esp. the art one can find in "Biltmore Village" just opposite the gate to the estate and also in the downtown galleries. The quality is surprisingly good, even in the Folk Art store up on the Blue Ridge Parkway just off the highway. One can have way too many whammy-diddles, but this stuff is better than that -- again good quality, although quality can be pricey.
Driving 20 miles south of Asheville on the Blue Ridge Parkway offers the best views, but be aware that any lousy weather will close the Parkway (and make sure you have filled the gas tank if you go further).
Ask me anything else if you have questions.
Now, about Asheville: Before the ice storm, we had just come back from a charming Thanksgiving in Asheville. We stayed near the entrance to Biltmore at a very reasonably priced Doubletree (love those cookies), had 2 dinners on the Biltmore property and Thanksgiving dinner at Gabriel's in the Richmond Hill Inn. I recommend all of these, although there were some missteps in the food most likely because of the high volume of preparation. The "gem" meal of the 3 days, however, was tapas at Zambra's in downtown Asheville -- four stars there both for food and for value.
Doing the "Candlelight" tour of Biltmore was lovely (if a bit chilly -- take your coats) and we were afraid that coming back to do the tour again by day would be redundant. It was not, because there was much that could not be seen in the candle-lit murk, and plenty we missed because we were admiring the holiday decorations and musicians.
You should be aware (their website is confusing) that if you have bought the "Candlelight Tour" tickets you can come back to the grounds on a next-day pass for free and for an $8. upgrade, you can re-enter the house again to take the audio-headphone tour (worth it). You don't need to buy new tickets, and a good thing at about $36-$40 a pop!
We also took the "Behind the Scenes" tour, which was in many ways the best -- small group, someone to answer questions, and very interesting exploration.
The Winery, on the other hand, is a bit of a joke -- all those medals and awards on the walls and only one or two 1st place/Blue Ribbons -- with good reason! Only their reserve labels are at all remarkable, but you'll probably enjoy the end-of-(very short, unguided)tour tasting anyway, even if their "vin" is quite "ordinaire" sometimes. You can pay money for a higher quality reserve-label tasting inside, and this is probably worth it for some.
Cautions: arrive early, early. On special days, it opens a little before the posted time and it's worth getting there at that time. By noon time on the day after Thanksgiving one could scarcely move around the area in the stable with the small shops. Also, there's an awful lot of touristy dreck for sale, but you may find one or two things (usually foodstuffs) worth the money.
Don't miss the rest of Asheville, esp. the art one can find in "Biltmore Village" just opposite the gate to the estate and also in the downtown galleries. The quality is surprisingly good, even in the Folk Art store up on the Blue Ridge Parkway just off the highway. One can have way too many whammy-diddles, but this stuff is better than that -- again good quality, although quality can be pricey.
Driving 20 miles south of Asheville on the Blue Ridge Parkway offers the best views, but be aware that any lousy weather will close the Parkway (and make sure you have filled the gas tank if you go further).
Ask me anything else if you have questions.
Dec 13th, 2002, 02:48 AM
#6
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Tapas are from Spain. They are little small dishes that you have in a bar with beer or wine. They would be Spanish Omelette, Olives, Chirozo sausage, fish, and lots of other things as well. Delicious.
Don't know about the Whammy-diddles - I'm in the dark about them!
Don't know about the Whammy-diddles - I'm in the dark about them!
Dec 13th, 2002, 03:25 AM
#8
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Being a North Carolinian, I can tell you what whimmy diddles are! They are a small stick with a "propellar" on top. There is a special portion of the stick that has a raised or zig zag pattern in the wood. You take the corresponding portion of another (specially made)stick, rub them, and the propellar turns. I know that doesn't make much sense, but it's a folk toy that has been around for years. They are called "gee haw whimmy diddles" I think.
Dec 13th, 2002, 03:28 AM
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I just remembered where the "gee haw" comes in--according to where you hold your finger on the stick, the little propellar goes left or right. "Gee and haw" are the terms for left and right used when driving mules that are pulling a plow!!!!!! That's all from the farm in the N.C. piedmont!
Dec 13th, 2002, 06:00 AM
#10
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Ah, the best of Fodor-ism -- people asking and answering questions with friendliness! I didn't think anyone would respond to this, glad to see people read it. (I agree that good art should be pricey, just think maybe NC should have a lottery so I'd have a chance of affording it, however slight!)
Tapas refers to "lids," as in the lid of a jar -- i.e., small round "dish" on which Spanish (or more often, Catalonians) place either hot or cold appetizer-sized portions of all kinds of things. Cold might be hearts of palm with shrimp, or asparagus with garlic sauce; hot might be a round of bread with ham and melted Spanish cheese, or mussels in garlic-caper sauce or meatballs, etc. etc. Prices usually seem very reasonable, although you can rack up quite a bill ordering "just another one of those things" over and over again. Not all Spanish restaurants specialize in tapas, although they may call their appetizer list "tapas." Tapas bars are now fashionable in some major cities and are only very slowly finding their way into smaller metropolitan areas.
As an aside, at some other kinds of restaurants, I sometimes think a do-it-yourself "tapas-"type dinner -- ordering lots of appetizers -- is a better idea tham ordering the full meal. The reason: chefs often put some of their best efforts into appetizers and the flavors are usually more concentrated and intense. You get quality rather than quantity; you just have to cope with that "oh, yes, of course, madam, and which would you like first" sniff you get from some waiters!
Re:Whammy-diddles. Anyone who has grown up within shouting distance of any part of the Appalachian range is familiar with the products of rural whittlers and wood-workers. They used to be cute, cheap toys for children, before Tickle-Me-Elmo and Williams-Sonoma-Barbie's-Kitchen sacked their imagination. KNoel's description of this toy is accurate -- it's mainly a repetitive device that makes a little noise and a little motion. Similar toys: the wooden man on a stick who dances on a wooden paddle you hold beneath him; endless variations of tops and yo-yos; and carved wooden airplanes (which I always thought was a little paradoxical).
Happy Holidays to all! Enjoy your heat, if you have it, and here's hoping for some good, interesting, safe travel for all of us in 2003!
Tapas refers to "lids," as in the lid of a jar -- i.e., small round "dish" on which Spanish (or more often, Catalonians) place either hot or cold appetizer-sized portions of all kinds of things. Cold might be hearts of palm with shrimp, or asparagus with garlic sauce; hot might be a round of bread with ham and melted Spanish cheese, or mussels in garlic-caper sauce or meatballs, etc. etc. Prices usually seem very reasonable, although you can rack up quite a bill ordering "just another one of those things" over and over again. Not all Spanish restaurants specialize in tapas, although they may call their appetizer list "tapas." Tapas bars are now fashionable in some major cities and are only very slowly finding their way into smaller metropolitan areas.
As an aside, at some other kinds of restaurants, I sometimes think a do-it-yourself "tapas-"type dinner -- ordering lots of appetizers -- is a better idea tham ordering the full meal. The reason: chefs often put some of their best efforts into appetizers and the flavors are usually more concentrated and intense. You get quality rather than quantity; you just have to cope with that "oh, yes, of course, madam, and which would you like first" sniff you get from some waiters!
Re:Whammy-diddles. Anyone who has grown up within shouting distance of any part of the Appalachian range is familiar with the products of rural whittlers and wood-workers. They used to be cute, cheap toys for children, before Tickle-Me-Elmo and Williams-Sonoma-Barbie's-Kitchen sacked their imagination. KNoel's description of this toy is accurate -- it's mainly a repetitive device that makes a little noise and a little motion. Similar toys: the wooden man on a stick who dances on a wooden paddle you hold beneath him; endless variations of tops and yo-yos; and carved wooden airplanes (which I always thought was a little paradoxical).
Happy Holidays to all! Enjoy your heat, if you have it, and here's hoping for some good, interesting, safe travel for all of us in 2003!
Dec 13th, 2002, 06:58 AM
#11
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Hi Cass -
Thanks for the articulate and interesting post.
Glad you have your power back. I was one of the lucky few in G'ville SC that kept power and phone throughout the storm. I was in NYC over the weekend, and they actually were reporting the Carolina power outages with their top stories.
As to tapas...years ago my father-in-law asked me where his son and I went to dinner in Chicago prior to arriving at their house. When I said Cafe Baba-Re-Ba, a tappas place, he replied "well, there's nothing wrong with that if it's tastefully done". It was about 15 minutes later when I realized what he though I said.
Thanks for the articulate and interesting post.
Glad you have your power back. I was one of the lucky few in G'ville SC that kept power and phone throughout the storm. I was in NYC over the weekend, and they actually were reporting the Carolina power outages with their top stories.
As to tapas...years ago my father-in-law asked me where his son and I went to dinner in Chicago prior to arriving at their house. When I said Cafe Baba-Re-Ba, a tappas place, he replied "well, there's nothing wrong with that if it's tastefully done". It was about 15 minutes later when I realized what he though I said.
Dec 13th, 2002, 07:33 AM
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Hi, Cass. I'm glad you enjoyed Asheville!
I wanted to ask if you got to take a look at the Urban Trail while you were browsing through the dowtown art galleries. I'm sure you noticed some of the sculptures... There's a 1.7 mile walking trail that loops throughout downtown, connecting 33 "stations" which consist of public art and the most noteworthy structures among Asheville's stock of art deco buildings. If you happened to notice the pink marble markers set into the sidewalk at intervals, those little engraved squares mark the path of the Urban Trail.
I also wanted to clear up a little confusion about Biltmore Village. I cringe every time I see that in quotation marks, and I hit the roof about seeing it listed as "historic" Biltmore Village in The Rough Guide to the USA (which reads like a hate letter to all but perhaps three American cities). Here's the deal: Biltmore Village is an actual working community, and it is actually historic. There's nothing contrived about it. It was built to house the artisans and craftsmen who worked on the Biltmore House, and still thrives today as a recognized Asheville neighborhood (like Montford, Grove Park, and others) where you can indeed purchase high quality artwork like that found throughout the city. I hope you got a chance to take a look at All Souls' Cathedral, that bizarre and awesome church which is the centerpiece of the village.
I'm also glad you were pleasantly surprised by the Folk Art Center. Many people visit it thinking it will be crowded with overall-wearing hillbillies hawking imitation Beverly Hillbillies merchandise -- when in reality you can buy gorgeous rugs, furniture, stained glass, jewelry, and clothing there.
Again, I'm glad you had a good time -- come again! One visit to Asheville is never enough.
I wanted to ask if you got to take a look at the Urban Trail while you were browsing through the dowtown art galleries. I'm sure you noticed some of the sculptures... There's a 1.7 mile walking trail that loops throughout downtown, connecting 33 "stations" which consist of public art and the most noteworthy structures among Asheville's stock of art deco buildings. If you happened to notice the pink marble markers set into the sidewalk at intervals, those little engraved squares mark the path of the Urban Trail.
I also wanted to clear up a little confusion about Biltmore Village. I cringe every time I see that in quotation marks, and I hit the roof about seeing it listed as "historic" Biltmore Village in The Rough Guide to the USA (which reads like a hate letter to all but perhaps three American cities). Here's the deal: Biltmore Village is an actual working community, and it is actually historic. There's nothing contrived about it. It was built to house the artisans and craftsmen who worked on the Biltmore House, and still thrives today as a recognized Asheville neighborhood (like Montford, Grove Park, and others) where you can indeed purchase high quality artwork like that found throughout the city. I hope you got a chance to take a look at All Souls' Cathedral, that bizarre and awesome church which is the centerpiece of the village.
I'm also glad you were pleasantly surprised by the Folk Art Center. Many people visit it thinking it will be crowded with overall-wearing hillbillies hawking imitation Beverly Hillbillies merchandise -- when in reality you can buy gorgeous rugs, furniture, stained glass, jewelry, and clothing there.
Again, I'm glad you had a good time -- come again! One visit to Asheville is never enough.
Dec 13th, 2002, 07:57 AM
#14
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I have to say that I was born and raised in Asheville and have never heard of a whammy-diddle! I haven't lived in Asheville for almost 20 years, but every time I go for a visit, I'm amazed at how much it has changed for the better. It's truly a really cool little city, and that wasn't always the case. Hmmm...maybe I should think about moving back!
Dec 13th, 2002, 08:53 AM
#15
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(I don't live in my computer, but catching up on email backlog from the storm).
Austin, didn't have time to find Urban Trail -- among the many reasons to go back again -- but did see All Souls' (my mother would never have forgiven me....).
I liked Biltmore Village, even more when I found out about its history -- wish some of the workshops (tile works, etc.) were still visible then. It compares favorably with similar small enclaves in other cities/tourist areas, even with the obligatory "Christmas shop," the Kinkade Gallery (arghhh!) and the couple of chain restaurants. Really loved the New Morning, Bellagio (clothing as art), and Vitrum (glass)gallery/shops.
Austin, didn't have time to find Urban Trail -- among the many reasons to go back again -- but did see All Souls' (my mother would never have forgiven me....).
I liked Biltmore Village, even more when I found out about its history -- wish some of the workshops (tile works, etc.) were still visible then. It compares favorably with similar small enclaves in other cities/tourist areas, even with the obligatory "Christmas shop," the Kinkade Gallery (arghhh!) and the couple of chain restaurants. Really loved the New Morning, Bellagio (clothing as art), and Vitrum (glass)gallery/shops.
Dec 13th, 2002, 09:18 PM
#17
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Yeah, Cass... that Popeye's chicken place blends into its surroundings in Biltmore Village about as well as mud wrestling fits into a funeral procession, but the situation is improving. The McDonald's in the village was recently torn down and rebuilt in a style more like the surrounding Tudor structures -- and it's the only McDonald's I know of that boasts a working fireplace and a grand piano! I guess they wanted the inside to fit in as well as the outside. You may have also noticed some of the other newer buildings there that have been constructed to look like the existing hictoric buildings. Definitely a good thing.
This also might interest you, since you mentioned that you live in central NC. When passenger rail service is restored to Asheville, a feat expected to be accomplished sometime in the next decace, the Asheville train station will be in Biltmore Village -- and they're probably build it so that it will blend in as well as the new McDonald's. No word yet though on whether the train station will feature a fireplace and a grand piano though...
This also might interest you, since you mentioned that you live in central NC. When passenger rail service is restored to Asheville, a feat expected to be accomplished sometime in the next decace, the Asheville train station will be in Biltmore Village -- and they're probably build it so that it will blend in as well as the new McDonald's. No word yet though on whether the train station will feature a fireplace and a grand piano though...
Dec 14th, 2002, 02:47 AM
#18
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Nice report. We took in Biltmore on our drive to FL last year just before Christmas and though it took some cajoling to get my husband to stop we agreed it was well worth going a bit out of our way to see. Thanks for renewing the memory. Wish we could have spent more time there.
