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Trip Report & Story : Pt Lobos, Big Sur, Pfeiffer, S.Cruz

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Trip Report & Story : Pt Lobos, Big Sur, Pfeiffer, S.Cruz

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Old Jul 23rd, 2005, 04:15 PM
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Trip Report & Story : Pt Lobos, Big Sur, Pfeiffer, S.Cruz

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Two months ago, we secured reservations for a $35 premium campsite online at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park for a Full Moon. We like to take midnight hikes for wildlife and solitude. For July, our full moon appeared on a Thursday. So it goes.
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TIP : 2 nights and 3 nights are difficult to reserve during summer break from school, unless very early in the year.
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http://www.parks.ca.gov/default.asp?page_id=570

http://reservations.nps.gov/

Except for food/drink, I packed our vehicle last night. This morning, Mrs. Delay spotted a ¼-inch wide trail of ants on the front bumper – gaining access via an arched flower touching said bumper. What a way to start. Some of these ants were under the hood; some were along the weather stripping of the door at the rocker panel. First time for everything. While we washed them away, I called the dealership to check on the latest and greatest in vehicular vector control. They didn’t know anything either. Called the exterminator for an even less optimistic response.

Side Note : I’ve been battling ants since the weather changed. In the house, in the garage, outside the house. Maybe they found me?

From San Francisco, we drove into the rain around Morgan Hill (halfway) on our travel to Big Sur. Did we select the wrong time to go tent camping? The Mrs. enjoys getting wet as much as any housecat. Two things are happening : I’m using my windshield wipers in CA during July –and– I’m assuring Mrs. Delay that my meteorological expertise surpasses that of any TV weatherman within a 200 mile radius. It will be dry in Big Sur!

We stopped in Monterey for a quick sourdough bread bowl of Clam Chowder on the wharf. Had to do it. I’ve never liked the trinket stores and touristic temptations of any city, so we’re in / out in a flash.
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TIP : I read about this on another thread. If you’re going to Monterey and your freeway exit is Del Monte, be sure to research this in advance. There are several exits that are not yet numbered, but have the same Del Monte name.
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We pull off Highway 1 into Point Lobos State Park and pay the $9 to drive in and explore this fantastic coastal nature preserve. Strange, but we didn’t notice until my window retracted to hand a couple of fins to the Ranger – it has stopped raining. Automatic wipers will do that, you know.

It was a busy morning here, and we bypassed Whaler’s Cove to park at ________ for the ocean-polished rock formations and tide pools at The Slot. Some very friendly birds, crabs, and harbor seals posed for our cameras amid rusty grey sandstone. On our way to the plumbed restrooms, a family of rabbits said “Cheese”. Click. Click. The camera whirrs away.

Ahhhh, to live the relatively stress-free life of a sole harbor seal tanning on the beach of Sea Lion Cove. Minutes later, the harbor seal ambled over sand, into the water, and swam to a rocky island of a half-dozen contemporaries who gave a cold welcome. Was this one “voted off” and now returning?

Devil’s Cauldron and Sea Lion Rocks form a majestic backdrop to our self-portrait by tripod.

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Old Jul 23rd, 2005, 04:15 PM
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The sun made its appearance and we made some mid-session camera adjustments to capture the intrigue of China Beach.

On the path to the sandy beach, I would have thought that Mrs. Delay’s screams of horror would bring the Rangers a runnin’ to the rescue, but not. She had discovered the occasional lizards which ran faster and were more scared of her than she of them, I explained. This notion was lost on her. She cantered on.

The aqua water of China Beach is interrupted by strands of kelp which glisten golden and mocha in the placid ocean nestled in this narrow cove. The walkable beachfront is the male part of a jigsaw puzzle piece, with 60-foot garden cliffs on either side. Monterey Pine, Live Oak, Cypress rise from impossible rocky beginnings. Subtle, clear waves lap the ecru sand. Are we really here, or are we in the Seychelles again? It’s the kind of location one would never share with the online world if it were not already federally protected.

There were no animals, no human traces, except for the wooden staircase which brought us to this sliver of paradise – and we made it our own for some time. Grey & white stone walls are orange in patches from the carotene-infused algae. Wildlfowers in orange and yellow display Darwinian strength, randomly piercing the walls.

Ascending the only trace of humanity, a wooden staircase to the trail again, we opted not to explore adjacent Gibson Beach. There were a dozen visitors who were lazing about Gibson. Joining them would have polarized our beach experience for the day. We passed on visiting the 400 cormorants on Bird Island, as well. Somebody in our party thought the white caps of Bird Island might be snow. It’s guano. No snowboarding on Bird Island. I called the optometrist and set an appt for her.

We motored over to Whaler’s Cove for more wildlife bathed in midday sunlight before exiting Point Lobos to continue our journey. We’ve been through Carmel Valley several times. So many great locations for weddings & receptions. Golfed and hacked my way thru Pebble Beach 15 yrs ago – some things I could not duplicate now. We’ve been to Andy Molera (west of Hwy 1) and completely enjoyed the river meeting the beach, sunset from the cliffs & the new plumbed bathrooms there. There was no plumbing in the past, and we often would drive over to Pfeiffer (inland from Hwy 1) – which was always full to access the river gorge and the showers!

Pfeiffer had been only a visit, never a stay. A quick stop on Hwy 1 for firewood and cubed ice before we checked in to Pfeiffer. For good reasons, this campground is nearly always full. Seeing that sign might have harshed my mellow, but alas, we have reservations. The girl at the Ranger Booth lights up when she pulls our reservation card. “You have a great site”, she says with an electric smile. “Oh, surrrrre”, I think to myself. “I’ll bet she says that to everyone”.

Mrs. Delay and I exchange a glance and I remember that we paid $10-12 more for a Premium Site. Sure enough, we are “on the river” nowhere near any garbage bins or restrooms. Very nice. We set up the fire for later, erect the tent and place our remote-controlled lanterns in the trees. Saved our overnight bag and bed for after our return.
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TIP : Bringing your own firewood is cheaper. We simply did not want any more insect encounters. Bringing the newspaper off the porch to burn away the bad news was cathartic, indeed.
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There’s a swimming hole in the river adjacent to some 10-foot high boulders. Perfect for kids, and for 30-somethings that behave like kids. After a quick dip and a few frames, we dried and made our way for snacks at Nepenthe.
http://www.nepenthebigsur.com/

On the patio, we enjoyed ocean views with 10% mist in the distance softening the edges on all of nature’s lines, including the curvature of the Earth on the ocean’s horizon. Snacks today : Herb cured salmon with basil aioli, crumbled goat cheese, slivered red onions, capers and toasted baguette slices. The South Coast margarita relaxed Mrs. Delay. And she wasn’t even tense.

For She : 8 oz. Naturally raised Filet Mignon, served with mushroom white wine ragout. For Me : Half Maple Leaf duck, roasted & served with mango glaze.
It wasn’t my night for beef, but it definitely was for Nepenthe. The duck was saved by the glaze. The Filet was the superior plate.

Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know. We truly did have reservations at the Post Ranch Inn. Problem was that we were hungry earlier this. Our non-guest dining reservations were incongruent with the timing of our lunar excursion.

http://www.postranchinn.com/menu_highlights.shtml

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TIP : The restaurant is open to non-guests of the inn after 9pm. Sunset view timing etc.
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Because we were camping, we felt comfortable in the equally casual setting of Nepenthe. In July, the sun sets nearly at 3 o’clock on a compass, if a person is perpendicular to the ocean at 12 o’clock. Within an hour, the moon appeared at about 10 o’clock on the same compass. Very nice. If only they were both visible at once…

We arrived at camp & donned our Petzl headlamps to “make the bed”. I lit the fire and listened to the absolute quiet tempered by the rippling river and crackling fire. We had zero insect issues here. Honest. When I thought she was least expecting, I produced some marshmallows and had to white lie to Mrs. Delay that we had only marshmallows. After the first round of roasted marshmallows, two Willy Wonka bars magically appeared and a box of grahams “dropped from the sky”. We made smores. She was all smiles! She thought I forgot. HA!

Brushed our teeth at the restrooms about 300 feet away and I noticed that somebody had taped sheets of cardboard to faces of the shoebox-sized lights on the outside of the brick shower house. Must have been the people at the campsites 20 feet away. The light still shone through the 4 remaining surfaces – just not directly on their tents.
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TIPS : Try as hard as you can to not be assigned to this campsite nor something similar. I can only imagine their experiences there. Bring a roll of quarters for hot showers here. 12 minutes/$dollar seemed fair to me.
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We fell asleep under sapphire blue sky punctuated by starlight to the whispers of firelight and the music from the river, playing chess on the magnetic travel set from Brookstone.

What’s our plan for tomorrow? We had joked that we would wake up to the car alarms – as we did in Yosemite – and would hike to both of the waterfalls after breakfast at the Big Sur River Inn Restaurant.

Would you believe that we awoke after 9am and heard no car alarms? True. We got cleaned up and had a great breakfast of steak and eggs + berry pancakes on the back deck. The riverside tables section was not open at this time. Need to make another visit for this. Ever get seated next to a group of people where one person just won’t stop talking? Happened to us. My mom has a friend like this. Somebody once had a sweatshirt made for this person that read, “I’m talking, and I can’t shut up!” Remember the TV commercials for Med-Alert ?
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TIP : Regarding talking and not shutting up : Cingular service is blacked out in the Big Sur area in general. No contact with the office? No problem.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2005, 04:16 PM
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At the Ranger’s advice we parked at the Picnic area which is accessible on the road opposite the river from our campsite. On our sunny hike inland to Pfeiffer Falls, we encountered several lizards and one snake lying across the trail in the chaparral environs. To me, this was hilarious because, only a hundred steps earlier, I had reassured Mrs. Delay that snakes only came out during Christmas. Figured we would never be here during Christmas. What are the odds? Well, she screamed as if her life were in danger.

Panic returned to calm and we proceeded for another 20 minutes, marveling at the color variations of the poison oak. No, we never did get itchy.

After passing a trail crossing that offered Manuel Point, we determined that the waterfalls were too far and doubled back on the trail through the wildflowers and poison oak, returning to the parking lot. Mrs. Delay earned a brownie patch for involuntary hiking.
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TIP : Park in the shade, and don’t leave your cell phone and 2-way radio on the dashboard as we saw somebody had done. I can’t imagine why.
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I drove her to see the lodge and the cottages at Pfeiffer before we left to visit Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. Here, we find a trailhead that leads through the dark canopy to Pfeiffer falls. Reviewing the posted map, we learn that from this approach, it is only .4 mile to the falls! Fifty feet in, we encounter laminated paper signage clipped to a road barricade that re-directs us opposite from the direction of the carved wood sign to the falls. Huh? Is this a joke?

We met a nice couple on their return who inform us that there’s a fallen tree on the normal trail and this other trail is 3x longer to our goal. They showed us their digital photos of the mediocre falls. They disagreed on the value of that trek. We thanked them and Griswalded our way out of the park.
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TIP : To see Pfeiffer Falls, start hiking at the trailhead by driving or walking up the asphalt road near the Yield sign at the Lodge. Taking the Oak Grove trailhead by the Picnic Area is not the shortest route. This is, however, a great place to play in the river.
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Hiking just to hike is fine with me. Do it all the time. But, hiking to see the waterfall, and missing our mark? I had a new mantra for 10 minutes : Must…see…80-foot…McWay…waterfall…onto the beach. About 8 miles south on Highway 1, we find the entrance and there are no fees! I could understand how this makes parking a challenge at times. We found the last open space and hiked in, anticipating the stunning beauty we’ve seen online.

NOTE : It is illegal to access this particular beach. People have been severely injured descending these cliffs. They have paid $thousands in restitution for emergency cliff-side rescues. Photos of rescues are posted as proof. Somebody, however, has recently been there as a 20-foot diameter peace sign on the sand is formed with river rocks. Yes, it’s graffiti. Whatever. Who’s going to argue against Peace?

McWay canyon was formed by thousands of years of rain runoff. It is fertile and beautiful as canyons go, filled with blackberry and other bristle plants in Kelly green. The pinnacle of beauty is revealed in the McWay falls which land on the beach, only feet from the waves landing on one point of the “V” of the canyon. An arch in the granite and sandstone provides a vision of sunlight and sea foam alternated in cycles of dark as the ocean’s waves fill the arch from the opposite side. All are visible from the path and lookout on the other point of the V, carefully maintained by the CA parks system.

Ten more pages couldn’t describe these areas.

We drove north on 1 until we arrived at Santa Cruz where we fought the pedestrian crowd to reach the crowded sand around the beach stage to set our camp chairs in view of Eddie Money for the 7pm set. A free concert from a cool guy from the 80s? Why not?

I wouldn’t eat here, but did take part in a 24-oz. Heinekan for $4.75. Not too bad considering the $8.50 pints at Shoreline Amphitheatre (Mt. View, CA) for most concerts.

Once the music began, the beach balls began flying. This added life to the crowd which began “seating” at 4pm, and I wondered to myself where the career of the MoneyMan had taken him. The setting sun guided us out of the parking lot and onward home.

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TIP : Go during the week, if possible. Play hooky, if you must.
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Old Jul 24th, 2005, 08:59 AM
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Triple Sec: What a wonderful report! I loved reading your almost-lyric prose of a much-beloved area!

More please!

Yes, JPB has a very small waterfall inland, but Limekiln has an awesome waterfall. Hope you made it to Limekiln!

More please!

And thanks for sharing! It's a priceless gift to share such beauties of nature.
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Old Jul 24th, 2005, 02:14 PM
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Hi 3SecD - it was so fun to read your report b/c it mirrors so much of what we did when we were in the area two weeks ago (no camping, just hiking). The peace sign was on the beach two weeks ago - I wonder how long it's been there? In my opinion, McWay Falls is one of the most beautiful sights out West, an area chock full of amazing beauty.

You didn't miss anything not seeing Pfeiffer Falls. Last time we were in this area, we hiked to these falls, AFTER being in Yosemite. Big mistake - what a huge let-down after the amazing waterfalls out there!
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Old Jul 24th, 2005, 02:18 PM
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is there more? Wonderful report!
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Old Jul 25th, 2005, 11:04 AM
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Thank you, everyone.

easytraveler : I have seen Limekiln at an earlier time of year, when the runoff was more impressive. Knew this would be the case when our year began to get away from us.

karens : Agreed, Yosemite should be scheduled after Big Sur. Then, on to Niagara or Iguassu. (I normally do try to "ramp" my visits to finish with the best.)

uhoh, easytraveler, karens : Yes, there's more, buy I was trying to minimize this albatross. I deleted tales of our mid-night foray into the forest; swimming in the ocean and the river; a visit to a family-owned roadside store; all with adult themes.
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Old Jul 25th, 2005, 12:17 PM
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I remember camping at Big Sur State Park and having wild boar running all over the camp ground. That was back when it cost $8 a night.

I don't think you mentioned what campsite number you had. Pricey!

The Beach Boardwalk Friday night summer concerts are always fun. The last one, on Labor Day weekend is always The Drifters. My daughter was there watching the Eddie Money concert. She said she couldn't have told you what he sang but every song she knew the words. And her report was "all these old fogies were grooving out."

If you have a few hours the best way to see Point Lobos is to park outside and do the perimeter trail. The 6 plus mile walk goes through some amazing microclimates.
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