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Trip report - Arizona trip including North Rim

Trip report - Arizona trip including North Rim

Old Aug 7th, 2006, 10:52 AM
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Trip report - Arizona trip including North Rim

Thanks to the great advice and input from Fodorites, we had a great little jaunt around Arizona. I needed to be in Phoenix for a conference. As soon as there was a rumor that the meeting may happen, I got on the web and booked the ONLY night available in a three week time span. Luckily, the meeting happened and I could schedule a vacation that worked in the parameters. My sister wanted to go. It has been years since we were last there - for a mule trip down the Grand Canyon. This time she was out of town for a month and had been recuperating from a yearlong battle with foot problems following a car accident. I planned the trip for more driving than usual and little movement. No hiking possible this trip.
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 11:06 AM
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Oops! Didn't mean to post. Meant to edit and shorten. Anyway...

Flight into Phoenix - uneventful

Rental Car Tip - all rental cars are housed at a new (or new to me) central facility. For ANY rental agency, you take the shuttle bus to the new facility, head to the appropriate counter and the cars are waiting in the parking garage down the escalators. Nice facility.

Another tip - join the agencies frequent renter program so you can skip to the short line.

Sister paid for an upgrade because (ta-da) she broke the other foot before the trip! She was a game traveler with walking cast/boot and cane but wanted more footroom for her "equipment". Got a virtually new Kia Sorrento.

First night - I booked the Cameron Trading Post - mainly because of the Navajo Rug Room at the Trading Post. Sure, enough, Sister rug shopped most of the trip.

I wasn't sure what she wanted to do the first day, but the choices were South Rim or Sedona. She chose Sedona. We spent a great 1/2 day there. Called and booked the biplane ride on the way up, conditional on whether or not she would be able to climb into the biplane with her boot or not. The answer = Not. So, we went to Pink Jeep Tour and asked their advice.

We opted for the Scenic Canyon tour and I think I enjoyed it MORE than the Broken Arrow tour. I was surprised. We decided it wasn't good for her foot to be bracing for most of the trip. The tour and the guide (Paul) were delightful. We were the only ones on our 3pm tour. We traveled along (bumpy) roads and gained 2000' in elevation. Gorgeous scenery and we learned a lot. Get two teachers (one former - and science teacher at that!)in a jeep and you get your money's worth from a guide!

Went to "Take-Your-Pocketbook" and sure enough, they got in mine! I'm not much of a shopper I claim, but this trip made a liar out of me. Bought jewelry the entire trip - enough for every outfit for the upcoming meeting. Didn't mean to. Just happened that way. Oops!

Was afraid that we were going to be too late going through Oak Creek Canyon to look at jewelry. No problem. Two vendors waited for us at the Dairy Queen and we happily shopped once again.

Called ahead to guarantee the room at Cameron and stopped in Flagstaff to eat dinner. Flagstaff was not at ALL what I expected. Lots of new hotels, restaurants, Target, etc. grouped together. Put our name in on the waiting list, ran to Target for some supplies, and the table was ready for us when we returned.

Temps were lucious! Cool. Low humidity. I think I'm going to lose my sister to Arizona one day.

Trekked on to Cameron with the last part in the dark. I don't recommend, but we'd seen that part of the drive before, so I didn't fret...too much anyway!
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 11:22 AM
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Great report, starrsville. Being from the east and seeing pictures, I knew the GC was big; but wow, seeing it, DAMN that thing is BIG! I hope to be able to spend a lot more time in the southwest in the future, and always enjoy reports from trips out there.
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 11:42 AM
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Thanks, rb.

Cameron Trading Post was just fine. I didn't have a lot of expectations, but the room was very clean, neat, and pretty interesting furnishings. The room did smell a bit musty. I was surprised at that in the desert, but pulled out my handy, dandy travel candle (this one in "Linen" scent) and all was well in a few minutes.

Coming in after dark was a bit interesting. We weren't sure where to park, but headed toward the front of the Trading Post. A Native American man was out in front, leaning against the wall, and asked if we were checking in. When we said, "yes", he told us to meet us at the security office next to the gas station. Sister wanted to walk. I wanted her foot to last the trip so we drove.

Checking in was like going back several decades. Filled out a little white paper form. I've only seen those twice in twenty years - historic hotel in Winter Park, Fl and somewhere in KY. He consulted a laminated room chart to find a room with two beds and then opened a manila folder and shuffled keys until he found one for our room for the night. VERY low tech!

The night air was magical and I wanted to stroll their garden - but we were beat! Fell asleep in minutes.

When we woke up the next morning - WOW! Yes, I'd seen the scenery before but forgot how amazing the desert really is. Off to the restaurant for breakfast - in the midst of our first Europeans of the trip.

I considered "healthy" options and decided to go with stuff I wasn't used to. I had my first experience with Navajo fry bread - and I was in love! Totally amazing. I think we ordered other stuff - but have no idea what it might have been. We were transported to a land of butter and honey and fry bread!

Time for shopping. One thing I learned the last time was to schedule in plenty of time for slow moving sister. I pointed her in the direction of the rug room and left her to her bliss. She was met as she entered. She asked the price of a Tree of Life rug on the wall. Was told it was marked down from $14,000 and then the guy departed. Sister tried to call him back - but he "didn't hear" her - or ignored her. Shades of the scene in Pretty Woman (for different reasons). Mistake. Big mistake. She dresses like a typical elementary school teacher on vacation. Some (perhaps some we may know on this board) may take someone on face value (any names come to mind?) Believe me, the Navajo woman who helped her at Cameron and the woman at Jacob Lake later in the trip were VERY happy if they work on commission.

I was pretty much bored out of my mind so I spent the 2+ hours conducting my Starrsville Somewhat Scientific Study of what Europeans wear while on vacation in the SW.

I bought a little bit of stuff. Nothing earth-shattering. The best buy was Mary Youngblood's CD - Under the Raven Sky. We listened to her lovely flute music for the rest of the trip. Sister bought several CD's as well - and ordered Mary's complete collection via cell phone later in the trip. I am a big believer in "theme music" for trips - and usually buy it locally rather than before a trip. Works for me.

We enjoyed the drive to the North Rim very much - amazed at the little communities clustered around the road. When we later read the bios of the weaver (and her family of weavers)I realized that one of the communities we had passed was the hotbed of weaving that my sister was interested in.

BTW, we finally were able to get out of the CTP when I told my sister that we could "stop back by" on the way to Chinle - or have them ship the rug she spent 2+ hours pondering home (without tax).

Next stop - North Rim
(sorry solong-winded,folks)
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 12:15 PM
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I'll try to speed this up.

LOVED the North Rim. It is what a National Park experience "should be".

We drove past (through) the fire damage. Unrolled the window to smell. Sister quickly rolled the window back up. Was wonderful approaching across the forested plateau.

Loved the GC lodge. Much smaller than Old Faithful, etc. but wonderful.

Loved the statue of Brighty.

Loved sitting on the veranda and looking at the view.

Can you tell I liked the North Rim?

I had made reservations for dinner weeks ago. I stopped by the desk when we checked in and requested a table by the window if possible. Hostess put a star by our name. We got there early and told hostess we would be glad to wait if a table were to be available in the near future. She smiled. I didn't think we would get lucky.

As we waited we listened (not in horror, because I was a waitress years ago) as self-important guests approached the hostess stand and demanded to be seated immediately (we HAVE a 7pm reservation!!!) or demanded a table by the window. Good grief. Reminded me of some folks on this board. When our name was called, we were lead...to a table by the window. The disgruntled, self-important folks were none-too-happy.

After we were settled in and had ordered, I slipped away to thank the hostess - and to slip her a tip. AFTERWARDS. She was very appreciative.
Good manners go a long way in this world.

Dinner was delish. Okay, maybe even "yummy". Especially enjoyed the Cosmo made with Prickly Pear Vodka. Had to stop to buy a couple of bottles to take home. Entrees were in the $15-20 range. The steak was wonderful. Perfect dining experience. Good view. Good food. Good company. Great drinks!

We slept in a Frontier cabin. Perfect for me. Rustic with a bathroom. One double bed and one twin bed. Opened the windows as soon as we got in. Sister kept saying she felt like she was at camp.

While Sister napped that afternoon I slipped away to Campground Store to buy a flashlight - in case we would need it at dark. On the way, cars were slowing to watch mama mule deer with their spotted babies. Ranger had to switch on his lights and siren to get traffic moving again.

At the campground store a clerk was late coming in. She just HAD to stop to watch the babies - the mamas had just started bringing them out in the open to graze. I had seen the configuration but not paid attention. Two mamas. Five babies. One mama had one baby. One "lucky" mama had TWO sets of twins. Ouch!

Bought snacks, souvenirs, and two flashlights. Had fun in "my kind" of shopping.

Sister opted out of the night Ranger activity. Good call. It turned out to be a night walk along the Bright Angel Overlook trail. Truly amazing to be walking the path in the dark - after your eyes had become accustomed to the dark.

Walked the same path the next morning and was AMAZED that the group had walked that path in the dark. Was able to SEE Roaring Springs this time - just heard it previous night.

Stopped back by cabin but Sister wasn't there. Left a note and headed to gift shop. Sure enough, heard my sister's voice. She had recruited a helper to help her carry her boxes. She finally bought the dolls she had seen years ago and always wanted. I never saw them - they stayed neatly taped up in their boxes.

The good news = we are going to get away from the North Rim more or less "on time".
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 12:21 PM
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Another frybreadaholic here !
Just be glad I wasn't along with your sister - we'd still be looking at rugs !

I have 5 rugs from Cameron and DH and I are heading back there in December. I am hoping to have a rug made by their resident weaver, Elsie Glander.

Also hoping to visit Hubbell Trading Post too.

Gilbert
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 12:24 PM
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We did a quick run-through at Hubbell too. Very quick, in fact. No rugs. I bought a ring.
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 12:25 PM
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Sorry. There were rugs there. We didn't buy one there. They DO have an auction coming up this month. I mailed a postcard to a friend with the info.
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 12:28 PM
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Gilbert, here's a link to the auction information if you can make it on August 26th. Wish I could!

http://www.friendsofhubbell.org/NextAuction.htm
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 01:55 PM
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starrsville,

Wish I could make it to the auction - just a bit too far from Alaska!

One of these days I'll make it over to NM and the Crownpoint rug auction.

What style of rugs does your sister like, or is she like me - I like all of them.

Gilbert
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 03:47 PM
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Enjoyed your trip report. We're going to the North Rim too, and I'm looking forward to it. Glad to hear you enjoyed your meal there too - I've read mixed reports on the food, but I hear the view is great (and glad that you got a nice table!)
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 05:19 PM
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Forgot an interesting stop on the way to the North Rim. We stopped at Marble Canyon and checked out the vendors before going out on Navajo Bridge over the Colorado. Found some interesting pieces and wondered what they would look like together. Sister and vendor helped me pick out matching pieces of turquoise and the vendor put together an unique necklace and earrings for me. He had to tear apart other pieces, but didn't mind. In fact, volunteered to do it. By the time we got back and did a bit more looking, my jewelry was finished.

Enjoyed walking the bridge, but it was very hot. Saw rafters far below on the Colorado.

Drove over to the other side for a stop at the gift shop and rest room. Found some good kids books and maps.

As we got out of the car, there were about 30 bright blue Harley Davidson motorcycles parked and an abundance of Germans milling about. We asked about them in the gift shop, and they had picked up the bikes in Chicago and were dropping them off in LA. Talk about baking in the desert sun! Lots of red faces and arms going on!

Almost ready to leave and saw a white pup in the car next to us. It was a Westie-Yorkie mix and reminded me of my angel pup. Of course, I had to get out again for some pup kisses and the "mom" and I talked about Utah and Georgia. A nice little visit.

About a mile down the road we stopped at a convenience store for an ATM stop and snacks for the road. Had a great steamed tamale. Didn't expect it to be so good. We were at one of two "fishing" camps we saw along the desert route. Who knew?
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 05:30 PM
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Okay, back on target.

Warning - take handicap zone signs seriously. Sister didn't want to apply for a handicap sticker, but wanted me to pull up along the cabin to load our stuff. My gut said "no" but my mind said I could get us in and out of there quickly.

A staff member rushed up and suggested strongly I move immediately. Just a few minutes before he had been joking around with us as we posed for pictures in front of the lodge. At the same time, the porter squealed up in the oversized golf cart and suggested strongly that I move. It was a bit overwhelming. I was mad at myself for even considering parking there in the first place - and got a bit upset. With me. Not them. As I explained, porter asked "which cabin" and drove off to intercept Sister. As I drove off, sure enough a ranger was easing into the restricted area. Those guys saved me a $350 ticket!

Porter delivered sister and remaning luggage to me at the loading spaces. I walked back to leave tip for maid and on to lodge to turn in keys. Porter appeared as I left lodge and gave me a ride back to the car. I gave him a $10 tip for his kindness (most of the bags were already in the car). A huge savings on the $350 I almost had to fork out.

No more "bending the rules" for the rest of the trip. No handicap sticker = no special treatment.

As we left the North Rim, I wanted to stop at Jacob Lake Inn just to check out the gift shop for "Jacob Lake" stuff (like the name for a special reason).

2+ hours later, we leave. I have my Jacob Lake tshirt. Sister had the "perfect" rug. Meant to be.

We enjoyed our lunch in the restaurant. They have a lunch counter too. Great sandwiches. Great milkshakes (to go). Great service. A taste of bygone days - family run hotel, gift shop, restaurant, gas, etc.

Well, not bygone days, 'cause they are still operating. We glanced in the rooms. Simple, but large. If the North Rim is full next time, I'll be staying there.

On to Chinle - our "long" driving day - and it's already 2pm!
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 05:45 PM
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We were waaayy off schedule, but I decide at the last minute I don't want to retrace our steps. I'm the driver. I can do it. We left via Fredonia to Kanab to Lake Powell to Page. All of this was just a "drive by", but it was beautiful country and we enjoyed the scenery. Also, got pretty good cell service in Kanab and so both were able to call home to reconnect.

Drove around Page trying to find the grocery store the waitress told us about. Found it interesting that all the churches were lined up on the same street. Also enjoyed driving down the little street of little hotels - I guess there since the 50's. We were also looking for a UPS store, but got there 20 minutes late. Stopped at the grocery and I gave a 20 minute warning - and it worked! We were in and out in 20 minutes - a record! And, I had two bottles of Prickly Pear Vodka in tow.

Back to our race across AZ towards Chinle. Beautiful drive along the "other side" of Monument Valley. Kayenta was MUCH smaller than I expected. Beautiful views, but we were glad we were moving on. I was concerned about the last portion of our route into Chinle. The road was wonderful, we made good time, and we saw just about every meterological event possible - except snow! Hard rain. A gorgeous rainbow that was far more than a rainbow. Is there such a thing as a rainsheet? It was a wide span of the beginning of the rainbow and we watched it for miles. Then, dirt devils or dirt twisters. And then, a gorgeous sunset. What an amazing last 70 miles.

FINALLY pull into the Chinle Best Western. Friendly service. The desk clerk called the restaurant and asked them to stay open for us. We ordered from the "Navajo" portion of the menu. The rooms were very nice. Newly redecorated. Big, roomy. Absolutely no complaints. And, because someone commented on this earlier this week, the toilet paper was "Angel Soft PC"

Tomorrow - Canyon de Chelly - the reason for the cross-country drive!
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 05:51 PM
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I think I'm talking to myself, but maybe this will be helpful to someone down the road once it's in the archives.
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 05:52 PM
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Canyon de Chelly

I decided to go here because Utahtea said I should. During the long drive across AZ, Sister kept asking, "Now, WHO said we should see this place?"

This was the one part of the trip I felt "iffy" about. Just didn't feel good about showing up at the Thunderbird Lodge to find a guide. Was a bit worried about leaving the car there. Didn't want Sister to know about my misgivings.

As we waited in the lobby to check in, I picked up some tour brochures. The desk clerk asked if we were interested in a tour. I was a bit skeptical - but no more than I was about picking up a tour at the Thunderbird.

The price for a private tour was $125 with a pickup at our hotel - vs. a group tour from the Thunderbird for $55 each. We told her to arrange the tour.

Sister was up early and out and about in the morning (for a reason I won't go into) and met who she thought was the tour guide. She was not sure about this - was concerned he didn't speak much English.

When we arrived at the lobby at the scheduled time after our breakfast, we were met by the most charming Navajo young woman. I won't mention her name, because she is about to go back to university. We had one of the best tour guides I have ever experienced.

She took us out in a Jeep Wagonneer. So glad not to be out in an open air jeep! The clerk has said she would take us by an ATM - but we all forgot, and entered the park with virtually no money. She was not concerned.

At the first stop, we were SO GLAD we weren't on the group tour. She called the vehicle the "SHAKE AND BAKE" and the title fit! Rows of open seats high on the bed of a truck. The guests looked absolutely miserable.

We also saw a family on a horseback riding tour. For a three hour tour, in the bottom of the canyon, I would opt out.

There had been lots of rain and the canyon floor (actually a wash) was deeply rutted with very loose sand outside the established tire tracks. We saw someone driving their own SUV. No way! Because of the rain, there were mosquitos at the first two stops. Again, so glad we were in an enclosed vehicle.

Canyon de Chelly was magnificent. The 3 hour tour in the canyon is really the way to see it. Petroglyphs. Pictographs. Remnants of Ancient Ones or Ancestrals (not Anasazi anymore). Hopi. Navajo. The Long Walk. Tecumsah Sherman. Stories of her clan, past and present. Stories about being a modern Navajo woman. Stories about the Spainards. The stories of the canyon. I could go on and on - and I'm sure the readers are glad I'm refraining

At the White House stop, there were vendors. Good news = beautiful, reasonably priced work. Bad news = little cash. I found a necklace/ earring set I wanted. We depleted our common stash to pay for it.

Then, my sister sees it. The PERFECT necklace to wear to school. $95 (special price). No money. We were ready to walk away. Vendor said "take it". Leave money in envelope at the Best Western. Sister was shocked. I was not, because I'd experience this in St. Lucia with water taxi drivers and vendors at different beaches. We leave with necklace and wife's phone number. Head back to town and ATM to pay guide and for jewelry. Sister calls wife (who made the necklace) because she didn't want to leave the money. Artist shows up at hotel while we check out (late checkout). Guide runs home to take pup out for midday break - and then meets us back at Park gift shop to help Sister pick out books for her classroom.

Just a fabulous experience all around.

Thank you Utahtea for praising CdeC.

On to the last night of the vacation part of the trip - Holbrook and the Wigwam Motel!
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 06:27 PM
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Okay, I'm going to crank this out and let it drop like a heavy stone.

On to Holbrook.

We stopped at Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado. 180 degree difference in the last time we were there. I was told we were in AZ during monsoon season. The monsoon hit that afternoon.

As we crossed the one lane bridge into the Trading Post the wash below was a roaring river. I slowed to snap a picture - and one of the pedestrians on the bridge taking pictures was a ranger. No slowing on the bridge? Yes, ma'am! No tickets for me

Parked and saw one of the sweetest sights of the trip. A man holding an umbrella was huddled in the doorway with a drenched dog at his feet. I asked if it were his. No. His comment was that he really didn't appreciate the Navajo approach to dogs. He stayed there keeping "Buddy" company and as dry as possible until the deluge stopped. I hope the picture comes out as wonderful as the real moment.

More rugs. More jewelry. I bought an inexpensive ring because...well, just because. The rain had stopped and we headed out. Buddy sneaked in as I was leaving. I later learned that Sister had, oops! let Buddy in as well!

Sister had bought a Route 66 book in Sedona and we tried to pick up segments that the book described. No luck. Finally, we checked the copyright date. 1996. Either things had changed in the last 10 years or someone didn't do a good job of fact checking.

Headed into Holbrook. Found the Wigwam. It was as kitschy wonderful as I had hoped. It was also the best mattresses we had slept on so far. Just cute as a button. The same family has owned the Wigwam for years and in recent years they have renovated. Nice new tile work on the floor. Great mattresses. Tired towels. Sister said a concrete wigwam is great sound insulation when the train went by. I didn't hear a thing.

Low tech check-in and office again. No clocks in rooms. Sister had a plane to catch the next day so we used cell phones and wake up calls from home.

Unloaded and loaded the SUV in rain - but it was easy to back the car up to the wigwam door. We drove off with smiles on our faces.
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 06:28 PM
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last call...going...going...
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 06:31 PM
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We got an early start and ate breakfast in the car. Headed toward Payson. Hated that we were missing Snowflake, AZ. I wanted to postmark cards from there!

Beautiful drive. Mostly uneventful. Planned to stop at the first post office to mail some stuff home. We rolled into Payson shortly after the PO opened.

I am a BIG believer in mailing stuff home. The PO had all the materials we needed. We spent some time packing everything.

An "Its a Small World Moment" - postmistress was having a hard time with a zip code and my ears perked up. Asked my sister, "What's the zip code for Fort Jackson". Felt strange - and kinda good - to be able to help a customer in AZ mail a package to SC!

Our last adventure - I planned the gas usage just a TAD too tight. The goal was to bring the car back empty - NOT run out of gas in the boonies. The good news - we learned that we had cell service again when we called 911 about an RV broken down in the right hand lane. A bare-chested young man was out in the road flagging down drivers to slow down with his shirt. A bit scary. I was so relieved, because I was not sure we would make it back to "civilization". Was glad that we had cell service.

As we glided down the mountain, we saw a gas station on the left. There was a casino on the right. Sister suggested we stop and use some of our good luck. I thought she was kidding. She wasn't! If we didn't have a plane to catch, I would have considered it.

Got Sis to the plane on time. Got to my meeting on time. TRULY enjoyed the brief vacation in Arizona. TRULY appreciate the help on this board in planning!
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Old Aug 7th, 2006, 06:42 PM
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GONE!

I expect the "kerplunk" moment will be about 2 am.

If this is helpful to anyone in the future, let me know!

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