Thoughts on Kauai
 

As mentioned in a previous post, we will be in Hawaii for 18 days from 1-21-04 to 2-8-04 and will be on the island of Kauai the first week in February. We have the option of Princeville Resort or Sheraton Kauai for free with Starwood points, and have chosen the Sheraton for the weather in the winter. Hopefully, we can return in the spring sometime, and stay at Princeville, which sounds more like "us". I'd like input on the 3 botanical gardens--Lumahai, Allerton, and Na 'Aina Kai near Princeville, built by Charles Shultz's (Peanuts)widow. We'd also like to kayak, but with so many options, we don't know whether to do guided or unguided, and which rivers to do--Hanalei, Wailua, or Hule'ia?? We're going a helicopter tour with Air Kauai on our second day there, but would like to do a boat trip to view the Napali Cliffs from the sea. Any suggestions? We don't need to snorkel, since it is winter, and we know surf's up. We plan on a lot of snorkeling at the beaches, Kee (weather permitting), Lydgate, Anini, and of course Poipu ( on our doorstep). We will do the first section (2 hours) of the Kalalua Trail, and of course Waimea Canyon...Are any of the sugar/pineapple plantations worth visiting--Kilohana or Grove Farm Homestead? We really want to make the best time of our 7 days with a plan already to return.. input please...

We took the guided Allerton tour this past July and thought it was well worth it. It is a gorgeous place with an interesting story.

We've taken Holoholo Tours on a Napali/Nihau trip that was a lot of fun. This was in August. The trip back was brutal with many of us tossing the cookies that they serve on the way back!

I've only been to Kaua`i in the summer months so I cannot comment on ocean conditions in the winter by actual experience (are you there auntiem?), however I would be extremely cautious of the north shore beaches that time of year. Even in the summer months when they are supposed to be "safe" and "calm" there were powerful currents that one had to be aware of.

We loved the beaches and the "feel" of the north end, but the Poipu area is awesome as well. Here is my trip report from this past summer:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34513767
-Bill

PamConlan:

As a Kaua`i resident myself, all I can say is "let the weather be your guide" -- especially for a January/February visit.

Choosing Po`ipu over Princeville increases your odds of dry weather, but definitely does not guarantee it.

All 3 botanical gardens are lovely, but since you'll be staying on the south shore you might as well plan on Allerton.

Stay out of the rivers in the winter...rains bring muddy water and that muddy water is filled with leptosporosis (a nasty bacteria, which can cause severe illness and, if untreated early, death).

If you go to any beaches, stay out if the water's brown (see lepto note, above) and nevernevernever enter water near river mouths (dangerous currents, plus lepto).

Jan-Feb probality of a safe (or smoothe) Na Pali boat ride are minimal. Weather will determine whether boats will go out.

Kalalau Trail hike? Weather issues, again. Trail will be closed if there's been too much rain (slippery, plus the cliffs get crumbly when wet).

Waimea Canyon? Better chance of finding a hike-able trail there, even in a downpour (especially the boardwalk to Alakai Swamp).

Kilohana Plantation isn't really a plantation anymore...restaurant, shops, and (if weather's dry) rides in horsedrawn carriages. There's a great working plantation town and sugar mill tour on the westside, though:
http://www.gandrtours-kauai.com/gnrtor.html

The best thing to do while on Kaua`i during the rainy season? If there's sun, enjoy it. When it rains, shop. :-D

Thanks iamq, guess we'll do Allerton gardens..just printed up your trip report, so will read at work today-I live in St. Clair Shores, Michigan, north of Detroit...Cold, and snow flurries--just dreamin' about Hawaii-- and auntiemaria, it's nice to converse with you, finally. I've been reading the site for 7 months, and just wanted to fine tune our trip. Thanks for all the info...When you talk of the rivers, and say to stay out of them...do you mean in the kayak even.. because we hadn't planned to be 'IN' the water, but I guess maybe you mean the walks to waterfalls, etc and swimming there? We're only going to sightsee at the Waimea Canyon, so no hiking there--no time. We have to enjoy our resort and hopefully Poipu Beach sunshine. We will be in the Hanalei area for 2 days though, because I just know it's going to be beautiful and we love to explore. We may even do the Lumahai gardens, too..We're going to call daily about Napali trip--which is the best out of Hanalei?? If there's a calm day, we'll be there....Thanks, and I will have more questions, as we get closer to Jan.21st....

We were in Maui and Kauai in Feb. 2002 and would return again in Feb. Watching the whales is a highlight--be sure to take binoculars--we used the mini binoculars that were fine. We had good weather and only one morning of rain. The evenings got cool. We did our all time favorite hike in Kauai--The Nu'alolo/Cliffs/Awa'awapuhi Loop--it is a strenuous 10 mile? hike but the views were spectacular and we only saw about 6 other people on the trail--the view from Lolo Vista was unbelievable--we looked out at the Napali Cliffs and down at helicopters flying into the valley below. The last 3 uphill miles about killed me.
We also hiked the Kalalau--first 2 miles--easy hike--lots of people.
We need shade at the beach--Irish skin--loved the little beach at at Maha'ulepa---out past the Hyatt, beyond Gillin's--beautiful with shade and cliffs.
We stayed in Poipu--rented from Gloria's Vacation Rentals-at Makahuena and had a huge condo right on the cliffs--with our own private blowhole--had to dry off the lanai every morning, we were so close to the water. Whale watching there was unbelievable--and one day a pod of over 100 dolphin swam right around the point.
We loved the northshore and would watch the weather at night and plan to explore the north when no rain was forecast.
I am longing to return--want our kids to see Kauai. We took them to Maui on our first Hawaii trip and it was our favorite family vacation.

Linda, We also have been wanting to show our kids Kauai. We went there in 1998 and haven't returned since that time. We took the kids to Maui, and I'm so excited that we've booked our trip for the five of us in June 2005. To me, Kauai is the most beautiful of the islands. I can't wait to go back!

Pam, we went on a catamaran trip with Cap'n Andy's and had a great time, but I believe their trip has changed a little since we were there. I'm not sure if this would be a good trip in the winter; we were there in August.

I have been to all the botanical garden on Kauai. I especially liked Limahuli (near Ke'e Beach) for its dramatic views, it almost feels prehistoric there. Limahuli can be seen on a self guided tour. I went to Na Aina Kai the very first week they offered public tours, I thought it was waaaaay too long but I am sure they have fine-tuned it by now. (It is owned by Charles Schulz's first wife, they were divorced for a long time before he died.) It is interesting, known for the life sized bronze statues (which are not very Hawaiian.) Allerton is lovely, McBryde is next to Allerton and is self-guided.

I have been to Grove Farm Homestead numerous times. Its a fascinating 2 hour guided tour, I always enjoyed it. It's a "living museum" in that the homes are basically intact and nothing has really been glamour-ized.


AS mentioned, Kilohana is not really a plantation any more, it is an assortment of gift shops and a nice restaurant. Worth a quick stop when you are passing by.

I have kayaked the Huleia, Hanalei, Wailua, Kalihiwai. CAution needs to be used when kayaking in the winter, especially on the Wailua if there has been a heavy recent storm. We once had our office Christmas party on a guided kayak trip with Outfitters Kauai up the Huleia which included a hike to a waterfall with a rope swing and a great lunch plus a tow back to the docks (no exhausting paddling against the wind.)

Thanks for great info, Linda on the hiking, etc. We'll definitely do as you did by watching for good weather to go to North Shore--are forecasts pretty good? And Viv, we'll also play the kayaking by ear, but which river would be the best if we can only kayak one? Just a few comparisons..I think we may tour Limahuli gardens and Allerton, and definitely tour Grove Farm.. we love that kind of stuff..Only 53 days till paradise...

I have a coupon for dinner at Cafe Portofino, near the Marriott...has anyone been there, and is the food good? Also, I'm concerned about the traffic around Kapaa, since we plan to drive through there several times on our travels....what times should we avoid that area? Thanks..

We ate at Cafe Portofino in 2002 when we were in Kauai and had wonderful pasta dinners. I think we also had a coupon--I know it had not been recommended to us. We ate out on the lanai and had great ice cream filled cream puffs for dessert. We enjoyed our dinner here.

Hi Pam, We are going to Hawaii on March 4th to the 18th.Will be in Kauai from March 7th to tht 13th and we were also planning on doing the air Kauai helicopter tour. Did you book you trip on air Kaui already. What time of day do you think is best to take the tour. Also a question for Autiemaria. How much better is the weather between March 7th to the 13th than it is in February. Is there still alot of rain in mid march.Will it be more conducive to taking the boat ride to the napali coast. The restaurants I have picked out for my six nights in Kauai are the following. Beach house, Donderos, A pacific cafe, tidepools, casa diamici and the cafe hanailei and terrace. Are these good choices. Any complaints about any of these restaurants. we are staying at the Hyatt. Hope to hear from you all soon. Bruce

marshall531:

Our winter weather begins dissapating in March...but we often have glorious days in December, too. And remember that even when it's rainy here the daytime temps are 80-ish -- no need to bundle up. 8-)

Boat tours from November thru March are weather-permitting. Be sure to ask what their refund policy is, before paying. Some will fully refund; others will only give rain-checks.

Most heli tours are best taken in the morning, before the air temp pulls up the clouds.

Your restaurant choices are very good -- and if you need more: Coconuts (Kapa`a), Cafe Portofino (now located upstairs over Duke's at the Marriott), Wahoo's (Kapa`a), Keoki's Paradise (Po`ipu), Roy's (Po`ipu).

Have a _wonderful_ visit!

Just a little FYI on hiking. Just back from Kauai. We were there for several days the week before Thanksgiving. Did the 2 mile hike of the Kalulua Trail and hiking in Waimea Canyon. Very wet and very, very slippery. You will find my butt print (and sometimes several) on the trails we hiked. Unfortunately, the river crossing on Kalulua Trail to the beach was waist high, and the water was moving very, very swiftly so we didn't cross. Hard to be so close yet so far from the beach. Even the trails in Waimea Canyon were slippery. Just use common sense and good shoes. We were shocked by the number of people trying to hike these trails is keds or flip flops! Hiking sticks would be a great help (we didn't bring ours unfortunately!) We found the traffic in Kapaa to bottleneck at one spot during "rush"hour but once you got past that particular spot, it was fine.
Also recommend Coconuts and Keoki's Paradise. Have fun!

Chitown-
I wear my permanently "red dirt stained on the butt" shorts proudly...and all year long as most well attest! ((Y))

28 mo' days.

Since you are staying on the south side of the island have you considered staying at the Hyatt. It is a bit expensive but it is a beautiful place and well worth the money.

chitowngirl - when we hiked the Kalalau trail a couple of years ago we were amazed to see people on the trail barefoot and carrying surfboards! And they went all the way to the beach.

Thanks Kal I feel much better, even if my tailbone is still aching! At one point I even looked at my boots to see if there was even tread there! Very challenging but I would do it all again in a heartbeat.

Pdxgirl. Amazing isn't it? We are pretty avid hikers and after all this time I am always amazed at how unprepared (stupid?) people are. Case in point. On our hike on Kauai to the falls where people can swing and jump from the trees (name escapes me), the trail was horribly wet, slippery, and through, I believe, sugar cane fields. To get to the top of the falls (if you did not go) you have to go down a very slippery incline to a rocky area across the top of the falls. Any way, we make our way through all this and are sitting on the rocks watching the locals do their thing and here comes this family with a baby. This baby could not have been much more than a month old and not in a carrier, being held, negotiating over all this and the parents wearing sandles. I thought I would have a heart attack!

My husband and I (mid-fifties,but fit) will probably do more walking than hiking, especially in February, when conditions are wetter. But I've enjoyed all of your input about red-stained butts, etc...I love reading all the info on this site..in response to our helicopter flight, we are going at 8:30. All research (and AuntiMarie,too) indicate mornings have less wind. I think AIR KAUAI is a good choice because of their safety record, and I've heard they tend to postpone flights because of less than ideal flying conditions, which I applaud..and the reason we're staying at the Sheraton at Poipu Beach and not the Hyatt, etc. is because we have enough Starwood points to stay for FREE..and we really won't be in our rooms that much..Thanks again for all the info and anything anyone can think of to further enhance our stay, would be much appreciated!

Has anyone done the Gay & Robinson Sugar Mill and Plantation tour? We love to learn the history of where we visit..is it worth it, and how long of a tour is it?? What about the "Movie" tour, where you visit sights of where movies were filmed?? Expensive, but is it fun?? Also, what about the Grove Farm Homestead Museum..is the tour worth the time?? So far we've only made reservations for one thing--a helicopter tour with Air Kauai..We'd love to tour Napali cliffs by sea, but evidently due to Winter weather, we'll have to wait and see. The weather will really determine what we can do, but we will enjoy Kauai regardless---22 days and counting...

Has anyone done Captain Andy's sunset dinner cruise?? It says they go all the way to Kee Beach, which is entire Napali coast, weather permitting??? It's a 4 hour tour for about $87.00/with discount.. Thanks

The sugar mill tour is a treasure -- especially since cane production has been curtailed severely here in the islands. If you do this one, you can skip the GF Homestead Museum.

The Kaua`i Museum in Lihu`e is worth a visit, especially for their displays of historical photos and Ni`ihau shell lei.

Even though I'm not a movie buff, we totally enjoyed our movie tour. We did the all-day tour -- but I see that the new owner of the company has _really_ increased the tour prices. Now I'd only recommend it to ardent movie fans...

I recommend kayaking at Wailua river with no guide. It's easy to get around and very enjoyable. There are several renters in Kapaa. Also, the first 2 miles of the Kalalua trail may be closed and the beach may also be roped off. Enjoy whatever you decide.

Thanks auntiemaria! We're pretty much taking your advice on everything for this trip! So, we'll tour the sugar mill, and if rainy, we'll do the museum..Thanks too Eduardo..weather permitting, we'd like to kayak at least one river, so maybe it will be the Wailua..

Auntie Maria is a wise woman. We just got back from 7+ days on Kaua'i, and her advice is true. Also: my dear husband is enough of a micro-biologist to advise you to heed Auntie's warnings about staying out of the water.

While we were there, it truly poured both on the north and south shores around New Year's. 'Not a reason to cancel your trip, but having a plan B is a good option. Shopping is good, as is the little Museum in Lihu'e. Also consider a nice lounge in the evening. On the south Shore, if you want a change from the Sheraton, try Stevenson's bar at the Hyatt. Rather than a tiki-style open air place, it is an English club, wood-paneled style place with a lovely warm atmosphere, cool jazz in the evening, nicely stocked bar.

For the record: if you are on the North Shore when a rainy patch hits, the Princeville seems to be an ace in the hole. When we were there a day or so before New Year's, that area's power went out. This also means that many restaurant kitchens do not cook. However, the Princeville resort was humming right along as if there were no problems anywhere. Because we were somewhat casually dressed, we found refuge for a casual supper at the bar, and were pleased. (Note: when the power goes out, get thee to the deli counter at the market quickly, if you have not yet had supper, and do want to rely on the Princeville Resort.)

When the weather clears, I recommend Air Kaua'i's helicopter tours. After it rained so extensively, we still wanted to see the canyon and Na'Pali coast, and this seemed like a good Plan B rather than very muddy trails. Air Kaua'i's tours have intelligent commentary, large windows, comfy seats, and no cowboy pilots. Very smooth. It might be a better option than a boat cruise.

A nice trail we found begins at the end of Shipwreck Beach. At the eastern end of the Beach, look for the trail that will take you up the big hill for a lovely trail along the coast. Because much of the trail is volcanic rock and hard sand, it seems that it dries out more quickly than mud trails, and we had no problems with footing. There is a public beach and parking, but it may fill up quickly (we stayed at the Hyatt, which is adjacent to Shipwreck Beach, and could walk to the trail head.) I saw a few sea turtles from

I should mention that we did not book the Air Kaua'i tour until until the day of the trip. The weather had been iffy, so we assessed every day vs. driving the canyon. Also: my husband was not sure if he wanted to go on a helicopter, so we just let it ride until we got to Kaua'i.

Thanks for taking the time to post such wonderful info following your trip. I'm sorry you had so much rain!! But like you, we make our own fun, so..Do you have any further suggestions for lunches or dinners?? The ones here have been ample, but just wanted to know of any others..Thanks, Pam (only 10 days)