This road trip beginner called out for help - you answered!
 

About three weeks ago I called out to you for help with our road-trip itinerary: http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...a-beginner.cfm

Thank you all who answered!

You gave me your tips and suggestions; I listened to some of them, and this is the result. This final version of the itinerary will not change, but if you have any additional tips like “while in X, don’t miss Y” I would highly appreciate them. Places to eat, and of course if you have specific favorite hikes you can recommend, for example good sunset hikes.

Our trip will be in three parts:

1. LV and the grand circle of Utah (15 days)
2. Yellowstone and surroundings (6 days)
3. Yosemite, the Californian coast line and LV (11 days)

Here is the Grand Circle part:

Day 1: Landing in LV in the afternoon

Day 2: LV – pool and relax, get supplies for our trip, see the Freemont light show

Day 3: maybe visit Hoover Dam in the morning then drive LV - Springdale (Zion), maybe hike Zion in the evening

Day 4: Full day in Zion, hike Angels Landing in the morning, and some other hike in the evening.

Day 5: Morning hike in Zion, then drive Springdale – Page. Horseshoe bend hike by Lake Powell in the evening at sunset.

Day 6: Antelope Canyon hike early in the morning, then drive Page - GC (via Cameron). Sunset in GC (we lodge in the park)

Day 7: Morning hike along the rim in GC, spend the day in GC, then drive GC - Monument Valley in the afternoon. We lodge in Goulding, we hope to see the sunset in MV from some strategic point, tips are welcome.

Day 8: Scenic drive and horseback ride in Monument Valley in the morning, drive Goulding - Cortez in the evening.

Day 9: Mesa Verde full day sightseeing

Day 10: drive Cortez - Moab in the morning, visit Needles District of Canyonlands with a quick stop at Newspaper Rock on the way, sunset hike in Arches.

Day 11: Morning hike in Arches NP, rafting in the afternoon

Day 12: Moab – canyoneering (have not booked yet) or hiking

Day 13: drive from Moab to Torrey (Capitol Reef)in the morning, visit Goblin Valley on the way,maybe hike Capitol Reef in the evening (depending on the time we spend on Goblin Valley)

Day 14: Hike Capitol Reef in the morning, eat homemade pie at Grifford Ranch house, Drive Hwy 12 between Torrey and Bryce Canyon. Depending on when we get going, we will try to see some of the sights along Hwy 12 (to choose from: Burr trail, the Anazasi museum in Boulder, Kiva Coffee House)

Day 15: Canyon trail ride in Bryce Canyon in the morning, maybe some hiking in Bryce Canyon in the evening.

Day 16: Drive from Bryce Canyon to Yellowstone

Sounds like the kind of trip lots of us would like to go on.

thank yo emalloy for all the input you have given me! It looks like we are in the same time zone.

This is part 2 of our trip, Yellowstone:

Day 16: drive from Bryce Canyon to Yellowstone, sleep in Old Faithful Inn

Day 17: Yellowstone, sleep in Mammoth Frontier Cabin

Day 18: Yellowstone, sleep in the Canyon Lodge

Day 19: Yellowstone, drive to Cody for the rodeo, sleep in Cody

day 20: Drive from Cody via Yellowstone to Jackson Hole, sleep in Jackson

Day 21: Mountains horse trail ride in Jackson, then drive towards Yosemite (first stop Elko, Nevada).

Any tips on how to best experience these different parts of Yellowstone are welcome, where to stop and hike for example.

www.gorp.com great sites for hiking trails for you

areas around the river are scenic hot springs geysers

hikes are amaing in the caldera of the largest

supervolcano in the US careful not to get burned/fall in

some do rarely...

But GREAT plan stay flexible relax do not push go for it.

Buy a National Park Pass and save $$$

I don't know if The Narrows are hikeable right now or not(depending on waterflow). But, if they are, it would be a shame to miss it. You can do it in the heat.

If you search for the Top 10 day hikes in American. The Narrows and Angels Landing are on most lists. They are very different hikes and we enjoyed both of them equally. For AL, I would start at sunrise to avoid the heat on the ascent. Start at like 5:00 or 5:30AM and you will not see that many people once at the top either.

Day 8 and 9--I would stay in Mesa Verde not Cortez.

Day 11 Delicate Arch and the full Devils Garden are both great trails

Day 12 www.deserthighlights.com is the best IMOP

Day 13 Little Wildhorse Canyon is a great Slot Canyon
and is about 10 minutes from the Goblins.

Day 16, 20, or 21 Do something in the Grand Tetons--Either Hike Inspiration Point or maybe float the Snake River. At least eat in Jackson Lake Lodge. They have two historic restaurants in that lodge. The main dining area or the cafe type. We loved the cafe.

horseshoe bend state park near m.v. is worth a stop and does not have to be to time consuming.

qwovadis, thank you for that link, I found a list called "top ten family hikes in Yellowstone" on that site, and there is probably a lot more information to find about the other destinations also. Will study the site more in detail.

spirobulldog - thank you for all your comments.

I had heard about the National Park Pass, but I've forgotten to buy one. Now I cannot figure out from the info on the site if you can buy the pass on-line and then print it, or if they have to send it to you by mail (which is too late for us now).

Do you think we can buy it at the Visitors Center in Zion when we get there, or even better, somewhere in LV to save time?

Someone put their Angels Landing hike on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8ygj...1&feature=fvwp, and I admit I'm feeling a little apprehensive about the chain-passage - to do it myself but also to watch my kids do it. Have you tried this hike with teens or pre-teens?

I would like to try to overcome my fear of heights since I am pretty convinced that it is all in my head.

The Narrows is now also on our Zion list. Maybe in the morning of the last day before we go to Page. Do you have any suggestions for a sunset hike on the evening we get to Zion?

Will reconsider Far View Lodge in Mesa Verde (if there are still any rooms available) - took it out for budget reasons.

Thanks for the Desert Highlights link. I had found Moab Adventure Center (http://www.moabadventurecenter.com/trips/rockclimbing/).

I might add that only my 12-year old daugther has ever tried canyoneering before, that we are not very athletic but consider ourselves to be in good shape. Will contact the two centers to see what they can offer a family of beginners.

Thanks also for the Little Wildhorse Canyon tip, will definitly plan for a visit after Goblin Valley on our way to Capitol Reef.

About the Grand Tetons. I find it difficult to plan because of the driving distances. On day 16 we drive from Bryce Canyon to Yellowstone. Google maps tells me it is a 10 hour drive without stops, so I don't think that day leaves room for anything but driving.

On day 20 we drive from Cody via Yellowstone to Jackson, and theoretically we would have time to do something in the Tetons that afternoon. But I have been told here on fodors that the drive will probably take most of the day, and not the 3 1/2 hours google maps proposes. I will however have some options ready, should there be time. Like the Inspiration Point hike you propose (will look that up) or a boat ride across Jenny Lake and hike up to Hidden Falls or watch the sunset up at Signal Mountain.

On day 21 I have planned for us to do a 2 hour mountain horse back trail out of Jackson, that is presented as follows: "As you ride from the Ranch into the Bridger Teton National Forest, you will climb 2,000 vertical feet, and have views of the Hoback area, Snake River Canyon Area, and the Teton Range".

After that we have a six hour drive to Elko, so I don't think we have time for more hiking that day.

paulhelmick - thanks for the Horseshoe Bend Park tip (and all other tips you have given me during my planning). Google Maps cannot find it for me, is it close to Monument Valley?

And here is the third part of our trip - Yosemite and the California coast line:

Day 21: Mountain horse trail ride in Jackson, then drive towards Yosemite (first stop Elko, Nevada).

Day 22: Drive from Elko via Hwy 50 to South Lake Tahoe. On Hwy 50 several options on what to see: Hickison Petroglyphs, Pony Express Stations, Sand Mountain, historic old town, Grimes Point Petroglyphs, Carson City the Capitol

Day 23: Drive from South Lake Tahoe via Tioga Pass to Yosemite, see Yosemite high country and Tuolumne Meadows as we enter the park, stop at Olmsted Point. Spend the evening in the Valley ,maybe a short hike to Yosemite Falls and Bridal Viel falls. Lodge in Curry Village.

Day 24: Take the early morning bus from Curry Village to Glacier Point. Hike the Panorama Trail that starts there and takes you into the Valley. Spend the afternoon in the Valley. Lodge in Curry Village.

Day 25: Visit Mariposa Grove early in the morning, exit the park and drive to San Francisco. Some SF sightseeing in the evening.

Day 26: Alcatraz tour in the morning, some more SF sightseeing in the afternoon and evening

Day 27: Drive out from San Francisco in the morning, along hwy 1, maybe a short stop in Santa Cruz, lunch at Phil's Fishmarket in Moss Landing. After lunch lunch we will probably go directly to Point Lobos, spend the afternoon there, and then go back to Carmel and Monterey for evening strolls. We'll see if we have time to do the Carmel 17 Mile Drive.

Day 28: Big Sur Hwy, the McWay Falls the Elephant Seals and Pismo Beach. If we have time, we will make short stops in Cambria and San Luis Obispo on the way to Pismo.

Day 29: Continue south on Hwy 1, pass by Santa Barbara, Malibu and Santa Monica. We are staying close to Hollywood Blvd and Universal Studios in LA. If there is time, visit Hollywood Blvd that evening.

Day 30: Universal Studios.

Day 31: LA to LV (would like to upgrade our hotel from down-town LV to something on the strip for these two nights. Any price worthy suggestions?)

Day 32: LV - shopping and maybe Adventuredome for the kids

Day 33: Flight back home

i'm sorry i meant to say goosenecks state park which is a few miles from Mexican hat.
http://www.google.com/search?q=%22go...w=1280&bih=769
Grand Teteons-if you even pass by on the road you will have a wonderful photo op.
I dont know if you will have time for breakfast before leaving Yosemite valley but the Awanee hotel is historic and beautiful. Or you could just go there sometime and check out the lobby and dining room.

Sunday Brunch or any meal at The Awahnee woud be good. Goosenecks of the San Juan is a cool thing to see and it will only cost you less than an hour.

Just get the pass right at the entrance to Zion. It will not cost you any time at all. Maybe 2 minutes.

My daughter was 12 the first time we went with Desert Highlights. They take kids as young as 6 I believe. Canyoneering in Oregon and Utah is all they do, plus a little bit of pack rafting. Moab Adventure Center is a middle man for canyoneering, rafting, hiking, 4 wheel drive tours, etc. I would try DH first. They are sometimes hard to reach for a couple of days as it is a small operation. I can't tell you just how pleased we were with them on our 2 trips that we have been with them. I imagine that it will be the single biggest highlight of the trip. Really. We did the hardest one that they offered, but my daughter is very athletic. I think any of the tours with the bigger rappels would be great.

I like your plan on HWY 1 and Yosemite.
We did some kayaking at Moss Landing last week and it was awesome and not to expensive. Saw lots of sealions and otters up very close. Otters even lying on their backs and cracking clamshells with rocks. We were close enough to hear them eating. Lots of birds

Day 28 I would for sure see The Hearst Castle. Would probably need 3 hours there. Do Tour#1.

You are going to see many many awesome places on this trip. I hope you have a lot of memory cards or have a pc to upload pics.


In Carmel/Monterey we had great food at Dametra, The Sardine Factory, and First Awakenings. For a snack try scones at The Tuck Box. First Awakenings we had breakfast at.
Try the crepe eggs or the huge huge pancakes.

I don't know if you can get a National Park Pass if you don't live in the US. Not sure how that works.

Sounds like a great trip and well planned out.

Re Yellowstone, the musts for me would be:

-Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone (a loop that includes Inspiration Point as well as views of Upper and Lower Falls can be hiked and seen in ca. a half day)

-the Upper, Midway, and Lower Geyser Basins (can be hiked and seen in a half to full day)

And I'll give another thumbs up for Grand Teton if you can fit it in. If you must choose only one area, the Jenny Lake area is arguably the biggest "bang for the buck."

Re Arches, will second the Devil's Garden Trail. Depending on how much time you have, you can go out as far as Double-O Arch or only as far as the Landscape Arch viewpoint area. I definitely recommend going as far as Double-O and exploring the side trails to other arches in the area on the way. Haven't hiked the Delicate Arch Trail, but have heard only strong positives. Also at least drive out to the Windows area (Turret Arch, Double Arch, etc.), and if possible, do a little walking around here as well.

The pass you want is the America the Beautiful Annual Pass, which can be purchased most park entrances.

From the park service website, http://www.nps.gov/findapark/passes.htm:

Annual Pass

* $80 annual pass
* Available to everyone.
* Can be obtained in person at a federal recreation site, or by calling 1-888-ASK USGS (1-888-275-8747), Ext. 1, or online.
* Non-transferable.

About the passes, the $10 lifetime senior passes are restricted to US citizens/permament residents, but anyone can buy the annual pass.

I knew there was some stipulation on the pass, but I couldn't remember. So heck yeah, buy it.

Day 23 - before you start up Tioga pass, take time to go to Mono Lake visitor center. Interesting info in small center on a very interesting landscpe feature. If you like mark twain, he has some interesting bits about mono lake. and they have a good bathroom.
Tioga pass is amaaaazing. It's all about scale.

In yellowstone I woke up just before dawn and drove from Roosevelt to Lamar Valley. If you are near Hayden Valley you can do the same. But take it slow. Lots of critters out then and not many folks. If you see a car with a big radio antenae, follow ti as they may be tracking a wolf pack. Bring more than one pair of binoculars and a basic spotting scope with tripod.

In Yosemite Valley - For bridalveil falls you will need a car. short hike from the parking lot.
You can go on your way to or from Mariposa Grove. Mariposa Grove is amazing. Again, it is all about scale. That little horizonatl cabin and those HUGE sequoias. Take a minute to lye down on the cabin porch, look up, and breath. Aaaah. Hope the flowers are blooming for you. Try to go early in the day as soon as the tram opens, or if you are up earlier, try a hike up there.

From Curry, the shuttle bus is easy to take around the valley. PEak at the Awahnee. Very nice old national park architecture. COmpare it to Bryce, Zion and Yellowstone old lodges. Think of Ansel Adams playing piano in the lobby. Sunday brunch is to die for.

Due to late snows, make sure your roads are open and trails are open (panorama trail or four mile trail). If you knees are questionable, take your poles for the decent, especially if you decide to go down the mist trail (I don't prefer descending on the mist rail as too many vertigo inducing zones with big steps on slippery rock and lots of hikers -some not experienced). You can take the other route down, but may not be a scenic.

If you drive out of yosemite on hwy 120, there is a Raleighs super market in Oakdale (right side just as you get into town) that is a good place to get some food (big selection) and use the bathroom. Good stop over between Yosemite and the Bay Area.

Day 27 - Point Lobos is better than 17 mile drive, in my opinion. bring the binos.
Hearst Castle is cool. You must have reservations andyou cannot be late. It does take a while, but it is a truly amazing place with an amazing art collection.
I liked the tour with the kitchen.

Day 28 - Big Sur can take a while. Enjoy and stop often (in safe pull outs!) for leg stretching and view appreciating. Look for condors...
Cambria is fine but I prefer moonstone beach just for a stroll above, but close to, the surf.
Morro Bay is a small town with a small fishing fleet and some tourists. But a real town all the same, and the Rock is a site. Walking along the embarcaderro is very nice and low key. The small but informative (free!) visitor center that the Morro Bay National Estuary Program has provides a great view of the Bay . The Nature Center at the State Park takes more time, but is also nice (south of the Embarcaderro) http://www.mbnep.org/understand/estu...ure_center.php

If day 28 is a thursday, have dinner at the farmers market in down town SLO (San Luis Obispo). The best farmers market barbecue around.
At Pismo Beach, Longboards has great fish tacos.

If you want to visit one California Mission, La Purisima (between Pismo and Santa Barbara) is remote enough to give you a good feel for how life there must have been.
It's on a nice alternative back road that will still getyou to santa barbara just fine

http://www.lapurisimamission.org/

Paulhelmick and spirobulldog – I have been looking at Goosenecks State Park, and will add it to our drive from Monument Valley to Mesa Verde.

I finally booked the rooms at the Far View Lodge in Mesa Verde – we will get there late in the afternoon. Is there anything you can see or do in Mesa Verde in the evening? And for our full day in Mesa Verde, should we book guided tours or just explore on our own?

Spirobulldog – I looked up kayaking in Moss Landing and found Kayak Connection: http://www.kayakconnection.com/tours...ds=3-hour_Tour

I am tempted by the 3-hour kayaking tour at 10 am, followed by our planned lunch at Phil’s. That would mean driving out from SF early in the morning (approx 2 hour drive) OR late evening the day before and add one night to Monterey. Will contemplate on that.

Still not sure how to work in Hearst Castle in the schedule since you have to book tickets in advance. Driving from Monterey on Hwy 1 and stopping by the McWay Falls and the Elephant Seals I find it hard to calculate what time we could count on being at Hearst Castle. Any thoughts on that?

By the way, tour #1 apparently doesn’t exist anymore – lots of people on tripadvisor have been complaining about the replacement tour.

Bachslunch – thank you for your tips and comments – the Yellowstone days have been a big blank up until now. I have been concentrating on getting the in-park lodging, and not what to do once we are there. I will note your hiking tips and match them to the map. Thanks also for the Arches tips; I am glad I added days in Moab since there seems to be so many hikes and things to do in that area.

Kayd – will buy the America the Beautiful Annual Pass in Zion NP. Spirobulldogs comment made me laugh: “Just get the pass right at the entrance to Zion. It will not cost you any time at all. Maybe 2 minutes.” I guess I am not used to fast and efficient service, anything with “national” in its name is usually bound to take forever in my experience.

Suz24 – thank you for all your great tips! I have noted the Mono Lake visitor center before Tioga Pass, the Lamar Valley in Yellowstone at dawn, all your excellent, hands-on tips on Yosemite, like hiking Bridal Veil Falls before visiting the Mariposa grove, and the stop in Oakdale on our way from Yosemite to SF, and of course all possibilities along the Californian coast line. I have understood that Big Sur is a slow drive, so I will have a list of options ready and depending on how long everything takes, decide where to stop as we go along.

Thank you all for your tips on where to stop for food - I am working on a document with all your suggestions to have handy in the car.

If you are not a US citizen you can buy the annual pass for the NPs, not the senior pass, but if you have a US driver's license you might qualify for it too if you are over 62. They are good for all NPs , but not State parks or Navajo parks like Monument Valley and Antelope Canyon.

For a thrill ride after Goosenecks, continue up through the Moki Dugway, three miles of well maintained, gravel, switchbacks that get you up to 95, most of the road is paved and it comes out close to Natural Bridges NP which you could do a quick drive through and if you had time, a hike or two.

Have a great trip.

as you enter the yosemite valley you will pass the trailhead to bridalviel falls.if you took the very short hike then you save time later. I tried to look up a phone number to reserve seats on the bus to glacier point.the info given is that it can be booked one day in advance at (209) 372-1240.

Thank you emalloy and paulhelmick,

I will put Natural Bridges on the planning list, and see if there is time to make a stop there.

Thank you paulhelmick for that phone number!

grendel your trip is shaping up very nicely!

utahtea

Thank you all for your help, here is the trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...california.cfm

There are a couple of things I think you should modify.

If you go to Horseshoe Bend late in the afternoon the sun will be shining in your face.

Also, I wouldn't go to Antelope Canyon early in the morning as you want to be there when the sun is high in the sky.

<B>Myer:</B> The OP's trip is over and she has started a great trip report (see the link in her post directly above yours)

Oh. I didn't notice that.

Why isn't the report in a REPORT thread?

"<i>Why isn't the report in a REPORT thread?</i>"

Not sure what you mean. the link is to grendel's <i>trip report

I would highly recommend that on your way into the park you hike Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulen, one of the most beautiful hikes in the world. See if you can book at White Wolf Lodge and then go into the valley the next day. I did the Panorama Trail from top down and it took us all day because you aren't really going down all the way..you have to hike up several mountainsides. It's a great hike and I'd love to do it again, but I lost three toenails on that hike because the last part is straight down and my toes kept hitting the front of my shoes (and they were excellent hiking shoes.) Depending on what time of the years you are going (sorry didn't pay attention) the waterfalls may not be at their prime. June is a great month, but the wetter the waterfalls, the more mosquitoes on hikes. I like Camp Curry, but it can be noisy so take earplugs. There is a bear that lives very close to the camp that makes nocturnal trips all each night AND day! He's never hurt anyone, but he certainly makes for a good yarn to tell your friends. Make reservations ASAP (you can make them for Curry Village 1 year + 1 day in advance.) You can cancel without penalty if you cancel at least a week in advance. I don't know if I'd only give Yosemite 1.5 days. You're missing out on so much. I go up several times a year and just can't get enough. Have fun...if you have time, white water raft the Merced or Tuolumne rivers for a day...if its early summer, do the Merced, late summer the Tuolumne...most fun you'll ever have.

And another poster who didn't read all the posts. It's an epidemic.