The Princess Treks West
Oct 5th, 2008, 09:35 AM
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The Princess Treks West
As our faithful readers may recall, the Princess traveled incognito via Amtrak's Southwest Chief from Chicago through the Land of Enchantment, on to the Valley of the Sun. Her adventures follow:
Days 1 and 2: Riding the rails on Amtrak's Southwest Chief. As this was only an overnight excursion from Chicago to Albuquerque, EP decided to ride coach, instead of choosing roomette or sleeper. As she spent the majority of the time in the observation and dining cars during the days and was only in her actual seat during the later night hours, it was not a hardship, although she was unable to sleep undisturbed throughout the entire night (as princesses tend to be very sensitive to their surroundings). If EP had been traveling to the end terminus of L.A., she would have definitely considered the enhanced accommodations.
Along the way, EP experienced lovely and diverse scenery, which was the whole purpose of the rail portion of the journey. Past trips to Phoenix were done via air. EP again crossed the Mississippi River; traveled across the Great Plains; past the foothills and mountains; saw extinct volcanic formations, wildlife, mesas, arroyo, canyons, and high desert.
Some confirmations and surprises along the way. EP had always suspected driving through Kansas (or Nebraska) would be tedious and she was correct in that assessment. And she found the area around Trinidad, CO to be quite interesting. Wished that she could have stayed on a bit - but the western horizon beckoned.
The train was only slightly late (about an hour), due to a lengthier delay in Kansas City from freight traffic. However, arrived at the Albuquerque depot without any complaints.
EP stayed at the Old Town B&B, which was situated about 2 blocks from Old Town, 1.5 blocks from Historic Route 66 and 1 mile from the depot. Wonderful stay here - gracious hostess; very pleasant, comfortable room; and lovely full breakfasts, all for a very reasonable price.
As an explanation: After reviewing EP's planned itinerary, a comadre experienced envy, then wanderlust. As she had never visited Sante Fe, she decided to join EP for a goodly part of the journey. She flew into ABQ from LAX and arrived just a few minutes before EP.
The two met in the plaza near San Felipe de Neri Church and had dinner at Church Street Cafe, following aperitifs at a local watering hole. EP savored the carne adovada al horno and her dining companion the combination plate, both having sides of quelites, and enjoyed the sopapillas (with honey) for dessert on the patio. Both were quite pleased with the dining experience. Retired early for the next day's adventures.
To Be Continued...
Days 1 and 2: Riding the rails on Amtrak's Southwest Chief. As this was only an overnight excursion from Chicago to Albuquerque, EP decided to ride coach, instead of choosing roomette or sleeper. As she spent the majority of the time in the observation and dining cars during the days and was only in her actual seat during the later night hours, it was not a hardship, although she was unable to sleep undisturbed throughout the entire night (as princesses tend to be very sensitive to their surroundings). If EP had been traveling to the end terminus of L.A., she would have definitely considered the enhanced accommodations.
Along the way, EP experienced lovely and diverse scenery, which was the whole purpose of the rail portion of the journey. Past trips to Phoenix were done via air. EP again crossed the Mississippi River; traveled across the Great Plains; past the foothills and mountains; saw extinct volcanic formations, wildlife, mesas, arroyo, canyons, and high desert.
Some confirmations and surprises along the way. EP had always suspected driving through Kansas (or Nebraska) would be tedious and she was correct in that assessment. And she found the area around Trinidad, CO to be quite interesting. Wished that she could have stayed on a bit - but the western horizon beckoned.
The train was only slightly late (about an hour), due to a lengthier delay in Kansas City from freight traffic. However, arrived at the Albuquerque depot without any complaints.
EP stayed at the Old Town B&B, which was situated about 2 blocks from Old Town, 1.5 blocks from Historic Route 66 and 1 mile from the depot. Wonderful stay here - gracious hostess; very pleasant, comfortable room; and lovely full breakfasts, all for a very reasonable price.
As an explanation: After reviewing EP's planned itinerary, a comadre experienced envy, then wanderlust. As she had never visited Sante Fe, she decided to join EP for a goodly part of the journey. She flew into ABQ from LAX and arrived just a few minutes before EP.
The two met in the plaza near San Felipe de Neri Church and had dinner at Church Street Cafe, following aperitifs at a local watering hole. EP savored the carne adovada al horno and her dining companion the combination plate, both having sides of quelites, and enjoyed the sopapillas (with honey) for dessert on the patio. Both were quite pleased with the dining experience. Retired early for the next day's adventures.
To Be Continued...
Oct 5th, 2008, 10:41 AM
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The Princess's journey continues:
Day 3: Following a delightful breakfast of fresh peaches with cream, blueberry buckwheat pancakes and sausage links, EP and her companion climbed aboard the Sandia Shuttle Express (from the ABQ Sunport) for the day's trip to Sante Fe. EP was quite surprised at the lack of traffic to Sante Fe, but had specifically planned on using the 9:45 a.m. departure to avoid the worst of it. It took about 70 minutes to get to Sante Fe.
EP's companion (who had already visited Albuquerque in the past) stayed overnight in Sante Fe at Garrett's Desert Inn, close to the plaza; whereas, EP later returned to Albuquerque via return shuttle for next morning's adventures. Both disembarked the shuttle at the inn and walked the couple of blocks to the Plaza, after depositing the luggage.
They wandered for about an hour noting the local architecture and atmosphere, stopping in at a local bookstore for purchases and window shopping before having lunch at Shed Creative Cooking just down the street from the Palace of the Governors.
It was quite difficult to choose from the selections (the cold red rasberry soup especially tempted), but the two finally decided on the enchilada and taco platter (with posole - quite interesting to a novice - and the pinto beans were tasty and well-seasoned) and the blue corn burritos.
There was a 20-minute wait for a table, as this is a very popular spot - and our 1:15 p.m. History Walking Tour of Sante Fe, making it a quick lunch.
EP highly recommends the 1.25 hour walking tour, which started for the two in the La Fonda and ended in the plaza. A local historian was our guide. It just so turns out that a grand-relative of EP's was a Harvey girl (no, not Judy Garland!) and so the discussion about this piece of local history enhanced the already interesting tour.
The two visited the Museum of Fine Arts in Sante Fe. Unfortunately, there was not enough time to properly see the Palace of the Governors. EP feels that a return trip is in order.
The two finalized their combined day at the rooptop cantina of Coyote Cafe over mojitos and caiprinhas, with salsa and an absolutely wonderful haas avocado gaucamole. The large chunks of avocado instead of the usual mushiness made it more special.
NOTE: EP's comadre dined at Pasqual's the next morning (having huevos rancheros) before visiting the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, which was closed the day they were both there. However, EP had other paths to tread the next morning.
Another early evening for EP, as she inadvertantly fell asleep while reading her literary purchase and awoke well after midnight.
To Be Continued...
Day 3: Following a delightful breakfast of fresh peaches with cream, blueberry buckwheat pancakes and sausage links, EP and her companion climbed aboard the Sandia Shuttle Express (from the ABQ Sunport) for the day's trip to Sante Fe. EP was quite surprised at the lack of traffic to Sante Fe, but had specifically planned on using the 9:45 a.m. departure to avoid the worst of it. It took about 70 minutes to get to Sante Fe.
EP's companion (who had already visited Albuquerque in the past) stayed overnight in Sante Fe at Garrett's Desert Inn, close to the plaza; whereas, EP later returned to Albuquerque via return shuttle for next morning's adventures. Both disembarked the shuttle at the inn and walked the couple of blocks to the Plaza, after depositing the luggage.
They wandered for about an hour noting the local architecture and atmosphere, stopping in at a local bookstore for purchases and window shopping before having lunch at Shed Creative Cooking just down the street from the Palace of the Governors.
It was quite difficult to choose from the selections (the cold red rasberry soup especially tempted), but the two finally decided on the enchilada and taco platter (with posole - quite interesting to a novice - and the pinto beans were tasty and well-seasoned) and the blue corn burritos.
There was a 20-minute wait for a table, as this is a very popular spot - and our 1:15 p.m. History Walking Tour of Sante Fe, making it a quick lunch.
EP highly recommends the 1.25 hour walking tour, which started for the two in the La Fonda and ended in the plaza. A local historian was our guide. It just so turns out that a grand-relative of EP's was a Harvey girl (no, not Judy Garland!) and so the discussion about this piece of local history enhanced the already interesting tour.
The two visited the Museum of Fine Arts in Sante Fe. Unfortunately, there was not enough time to properly see the Palace of the Governors. EP feels that a return trip is in order.
The two finalized their combined day at the rooptop cantina of Coyote Cafe over mojitos and caiprinhas, with salsa and an absolutely wonderful haas avocado gaucamole. The large chunks of avocado instead of the usual mushiness made it more special.
NOTE: EP's comadre dined at Pasqual's the next morning (having huevos rancheros) before visiting the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum, which was closed the day they were both there. However, EP had other paths to tread the next morning.
Another early evening for EP, as she inadvertantly fell asleep while reading her literary purchase and awoke well after midnight.
To Be Continued...
Oct 5th, 2008, 10:58 AM
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Day 4: Early to bed and early to rise...
Princess, having rested well, walked along historic Route 66 and noting some photo opportunities for later. You see, she was going to the Biopark (about 1 mile walking distance from the B&B) later.
After returning to the B&B following her walk, breakfast was again quite refreshing, consisting of herbed scrambled eggs garnished with salsa, thick-cut bacon and various breads.
Due to extremely limited time, the visit to the Biopark was merely to include the Rio Grande Botanic Garden and Albuquerque Aquarium (combined ticket) during the morning hours. EP had planned on spending 1 hour at each but so enjoyed the garden, she spent the majority of her time there. Special kudos to the aquarium's seahorse and jellyfish exhibits, which was especially enjoyed by EP.
A return to Old Town ensued, with lunch again at the Church Street Cafe, since it was central to the afternoon explorations. EP had enjoyed her dish so much, she indulged again. However, this time EP had calabacitas as the side, which she much preferred.
The remainder of the afternoon (before 3:30 p.m.) consisted of visits to the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History (two galleries were closed but this was fine because lack of time to explore), the New Mexico Museum of Natural History which was close at hand - with a quick, pop-in visit to the gift shop of the National Atomic Museum.
The two travelers again joined forces at the plaza and then the intrepid explorers dared to visit the Rattlesnake Museum (quite interesting, too!). Yes, EP has her Certificate of Bravery - and a T-shirt - to proof it!
A quick trip back to the B&B to pick up the remaining luggage and then they were off to the Amtrak depot for the train ride to Flagstaff that evening.
Last note on Albuquerque: Because this portion of the journey was basically an add-on included in the midst of an already-planned journey, there just wasn't enough opportunity time for all of the things EP wished to have done. Especially since this entire trip was accomplished without use of a rental vehicle. The next trip back to this area will include: the Sandia Tramway, visiting Petroglyph National Monument and a trip to a pueblo.
To Be Continued...
Princess, having rested well, walked along historic Route 66 and noting some photo opportunities for later. You see, she was going to the Biopark (about 1 mile walking distance from the B&B) later.
After returning to the B&B following her walk, breakfast was again quite refreshing, consisting of herbed scrambled eggs garnished with salsa, thick-cut bacon and various breads.
Due to extremely limited time, the visit to the Biopark was merely to include the Rio Grande Botanic Garden and Albuquerque Aquarium (combined ticket) during the morning hours. EP had planned on spending 1 hour at each but so enjoyed the garden, she spent the majority of her time there. Special kudos to the aquarium's seahorse and jellyfish exhibits, which was especially enjoyed by EP.
A return to Old Town ensued, with lunch again at the Church Street Cafe, since it was central to the afternoon explorations. EP had enjoyed her dish so much, she indulged again. However, this time EP had calabacitas as the side, which she much preferred.
The remainder of the afternoon (before 3:30 p.m.) consisted of visits to the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History (two galleries were closed but this was fine because lack of time to explore), the New Mexico Museum of Natural History which was close at hand - with a quick, pop-in visit to the gift shop of the National Atomic Museum.
The two travelers again joined forces at the plaza and then the intrepid explorers dared to visit the Rattlesnake Museum (quite interesting, too!). Yes, EP has her Certificate of Bravery - and a T-shirt - to proof it!
A quick trip back to the B&B to pick up the remaining luggage and then they were off to the Amtrak depot for the train ride to Flagstaff that evening.
Last note on Albuquerque: Because this portion of the journey was basically an add-on included in the midst of an already-planned journey, there just wasn't enough opportunity time for all of the things EP wished to have done. Especially since this entire trip was accomplished without use of a rental vehicle. The next trip back to this area will include: the Sandia Tramway, visiting Petroglyph National Monument and a trip to a pueblo.
To Be Continued...
Oct 5th, 2008, 11:24 AM
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The Princess's journey continues:
Evening of Day 4:
EP's companion had never traveled on the Southwest Chief route and enjoyed the western scenery at sunset (with cocktails) from the observation car. The two ate in the dining car, last seating, and visited with two older ladies from Sedona and L.A., who were quite entertaining. EP had the game hen; her companion had the seafood selection (trout with white wine sauce); and the other two had steak. All were happy with their choices.
The train was on time arriving into Flagstaff. The two travelers were just staying overnight there for the continued journey south.
Day 5:
The Red Rocks beckoned the travelers. EP and her companion took the Open Road Tours shuttle from the Flagstaff Amtrak depot to Sedona via the beautiful Hwy. 89A. Both of them had been in this area many times before and this route is always breathtaking, as traveling steep switchbacks, looking over the road's edge into the abyss tends to be.
EP's accommodations were at the Matterhorn in Uptown Sedona. Not the usual place that EP stays, but travel arrangements were made very late so availability and cost were definite factors.
Nevertheless, the room was clean, comfortable and spacious with views of the red rocks from the balcony area. The hotel itself was only a block away from the boarding area for the shuttle going to the Jazz on the Rocks festival, where the two enjoyed the afternoon in the sun, listening to wonderful music.
The evening brought forth the only rain encountered on the entire trip, and that was only extremely light drizzle for a few minutes. The rest of the trip enjoyed great weather.
Unfortunately, the dining establishment which the two had preferred, Elote Cafe, was booked for the evening. Besides, the roadways around it were torn up due to construction and traffic was terrible just after the end of the festival, so earlier dining wasn't an option either. The two went to the Cowboy Club since it was close at hand in Uptown.
EP's companion had never had cactus fries - which she sampled and enjoyed. EP had also urged her friend to savor the rattlesnake but the companion was unfortunately not that brave.
EP had gotten a bit of sun that day and was happy to just take it easy that evening, near the pool.
To Be Continued...
Evening of Day 4:
EP's companion had never traveled on the Southwest Chief route and enjoyed the western scenery at sunset (with cocktails) from the observation car. The two ate in the dining car, last seating, and visited with two older ladies from Sedona and L.A., who were quite entertaining. EP had the game hen; her companion had the seafood selection (trout with white wine sauce); and the other two had steak. All were happy with their choices.
The train was on time arriving into Flagstaff. The two travelers were just staying overnight there for the continued journey south.
Day 5:
The Red Rocks beckoned the travelers. EP and her companion took the Open Road Tours shuttle from the Flagstaff Amtrak depot to Sedona via the beautiful Hwy. 89A. Both of them had been in this area many times before and this route is always breathtaking, as traveling steep switchbacks, looking over the road's edge into the abyss tends to be.
EP's accommodations were at the Matterhorn in Uptown Sedona. Not the usual place that EP stays, but travel arrangements were made very late so availability and cost were definite factors.
Nevertheless, the room was clean, comfortable and spacious with views of the red rocks from the balcony area. The hotel itself was only a block away from the boarding area for the shuttle going to the Jazz on the Rocks festival, where the two enjoyed the afternoon in the sun, listening to wonderful music.
The evening brought forth the only rain encountered on the entire trip, and that was only extremely light drizzle for a few minutes. The rest of the trip enjoyed great weather.
Unfortunately, the dining establishment which the two had preferred, Elote Cafe, was booked for the evening. Besides, the roadways around it were torn up due to construction and traffic was terrible just after the end of the festival, so earlier dining wasn't an option either. The two went to the Cowboy Club since it was close at hand in Uptown.
EP's companion had never had cactus fries - which she sampled and enjoyed. EP had also urged her friend to savor the rattlesnake but the companion was unfortunately not that brave.
EP had gotten a bit of sun that day and was happy to just take it easy that evening, near the pool.
To Be Continued...
Oct 5th, 2008, 11:44 AM
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The Princess's journey continues:
Days 5 and 6, Where It Really Gets Hot:
After enjoying leisurely coffee, juice and bagels at Ravenheart with the red rocks scenery, the two travelers clamber aboard their last shuttle - to Phoenix.
After meeting with Prince Richard at Skyharbor, the three head out to meet some friends for lively discussion. All have afternoon coffee, later dinner and enjoy jovial company that evening.
The next day's adventures for the two are the Desert Botanical Garden in the morning and the Heard Museum in the afternoon. Special kudos to the exhibits of artwork and of the Indian schools at the Heard.
The best meal of the entire trip (no small feat since it has been pretty darn wonderful up to this time) is luncheon had at Switch, where EP enjoys the lamb tenderloin appetizer (willingly shared) and seafood crepes (definitely not shared, as too lovely).
Day 7: The Sad Return.
Time - and money - ran out. Return was PHX to MDW via Southwest.
Ironically, the flight back was an early arrival. Moral of the story: You never enough time while ON vacation and always return BEFORE you wish.
Days 5 and 6, Where It Really Gets Hot:
After enjoying leisurely coffee, juice and bagels at Ravenheart with the red rocks scenery, the two travelers clamber aboard their last shuttle - to Phoenix.
After meeting with Prince Richard at Skyharbor, the three head out to meet some friends for lively discussion. All have afternoon coffee, later dinner and enjoy jovial company that evening.
The next day's adventures for the two are the Desert Botanical Garden in the morning and the Heard Museum in the afternoon. Special kudos to the exhibits of artwork and of the Indian schools at the Heard.
The best meal of the entire trip (no small feat since it has been pretty darn wonderful up to this time) is luncheon had at Switch, where EP enjoys the lamb tenderloin appetizer (willingly shared) and seafood crepes (definitely not shared, as too lovely).
Day 7: The Sad Return.
Time - and money - ran out. Return was PHX to MDW via Southwest.
Ironically, the flight back was an early arrival. Moral of the story: You never enough time while ON vacation and always return BEFORE you wish.
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