The Griswolds….(certifiable Out-West Junkies)… get their 9th road trip *fix* in Yellowstone, Yosemite, central CA coast, Route 66, Utah and MUCH more!
Aug 23rd, 2005, 08:27 AM
#43
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Ellen, thanks for the report. I'm lovin' it! We are going to be driving down the CA coast next month and your report is very helpful. Thanks for the recom of Julie Pfeiffer St Park if you only can do one - that is our situation. Question: was the waterfall flowing into the ocean? Does anyone know if it usually flows year-round or has there been enough rain this year that it should be flowing in late Sept? We have limited time and hard choices to make deciding what to include. Point Lobos is a must, huh Ellen?
Aug 23rd, 2005, 08:41 AM
#44
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Hi again, ellen. totally agree with you about Julia Pfieffer Burns SP - I think that view of the waterfall is one of the best scenic views ever. We were there in mid-July and that peace sign was there then, too!
On our first visit to Big Sur, I did not do enough research and thought Julia Pfieffer Burns and Big Sur/Pfieffer SP were the same thing. Learned the hard way that they are not! I agree - Julia P. blows away Pfieffer/Big Sur SP.
On our first visit to Big Sur, I did not do enough research and thought Julia Pfieffer Burns and Big Sur/Pfieffer SP were the same thing. Learned the hard way that they are not! I agree - Julia P. blows away Pfieffer/Big Sur SP.
Aug 23rd, 2005, 09:05 AM
#45
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Ellen: You wouldn't find the Vertigo tower at San Juan Bautista Mission. It was constructed elsewhere, like on a movie set. Hitchcock just used the rest of the Mission for his movie. Sorry!
JBC: funny you should mention the Sandpiper movie! That was the movie that got me started going to Big Sur! (Oh my! methinks my age is showing!). Those movie scenes of Bixby Bridge were awesome, but I like the bridge farther south over Big Creek better. The Big Creek Bridge has arches whereas the Bixby Bridge supports are squarish. To each his own.
utahtea: you'll really enjoy Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park! Besides all the old Fodors postings, another resource for this area is
pelicannetwork.net
Wonderful descriptions! If you are going to hike JPB park, you might want to download the map from pelicannetwork, as the ranger may not be at the guardhouse to hand out maps.
Happy trails, everyone!
JBC: funny you should mention the Sandpiper movie! That was the movie that got me started going to Big Sur! (Oh my! methinks my age is showing!). Those movie scenes of Bixby Bridge were awesome, but I like the bridge farther south over Big Creek better. The Big Creek Bridge has arches whereas the Bixby Bridge supports are squarish. To each his own.
utahtea: you'll really enjoy Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park! Besides all the old Fodors postings, another resource for this area is
pelicannetwork.net
Wonderful descriptions! If you are going to hike JPB park, you might want to download the map from pelicannetwork, as the ranger may not be at the guardhouse to hand out maps.
Happy trails, everyone!
Aug 23rd, 2005, 10:12 AM
#47
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ellen, don't feel badly about missing the tower at the San Juan Batista mission. Easytraveler put an LOL after "looking for the tower that was in Vertigo" for a reason. There IS NO tower there. But it was absolutely essential to the movie's plot that there be a tower, so in the movie you see one constructed in a studio and "added" to the mission through special effects--but more, as always with Hitchcock, by playing with the audience's perceptions and imagination.
You may have seen Deetjen's and not recognized it, because the words "BIG SUR INN" are in much larger letters on it's sign than the words Deetjen's. It is on the east side of the highway, 30 miles from Carmel, about a mile south of Nepenthe and immediately south of the Henry Miller Library. It's about 2 miles north of the Coast Gallery, 5 miles north of Partington Cove, 7 miles north of JP Burns park, and 60 north of Hearst Castle. Did you see their beautiful and interesting web site? www.deetjens.com.
The walls don't talk at Deetjen's, but the famous guest journals do. Pretty amazing reading, and one of the major attractions of the place. It draws good writers (and you definitely qualify!)
And maybe the ghosts talk, as a book on haunted California places which the staff can show you has a chapter on Deetjen's. The ghost of Grandpa Deetjen is notorious for haunting and running off guests who he feels are not "right" for his beloved place, which may explain some of the Tripadvisor.com reviews.
One Tripadvisor reviewer (actually in the "loved it" category as opposed to the small but outspoken minority of "hated it" reviews--no one is neutral) had an encounter with a benign and friendly female ghost who is said to haunt the Inn room in which he stayed, which used to be her home (she was the restaurant manager.) He had not heard the stories, and did not know anyone else had ever had the same experience until he read about her much later in an article in the New York Times travel section! (I have stayed in that room myself, but, regrettably, she did not appear for me.)
More down to earth advice: as much as I myself love Deetjen's, I would not recommend it for parties including kids. The walls are thin, the mood is quiet and contemplative, and there are not the creature comforts and electronic amenities that nearly all kids expect. Instead, it's a wonderful place for adult couples and singles seeking a uniquely Big Sur style experience of peace and renewal.
Many who find the accommodations too rustic still love the restaurant (not open for lunch, but extraordinary for breakfast as well as candlelit dinners.)
And for lunch or beverages, next time, try Cielo at the Ventana Inn. Just north of Nepenthe, but at a much higher altitude, so the view from their outdoor terrace(unless it's foggy up there, which happens) is just as awesome as Nepenthe's, but quite different. The food and service at Cielo are outstanding, as opposed to only good in my opinion at Nepenthe, and for not too much more money at lunch, as I remember it. (It's much pricier at dinner.)
Between reading your memories and writing mine, I'm ready to go back right now too!
You may have seen Deetjen's and not recognized it, because the words "BIG SUR INN" are in much larger letters on it's sign than the words Deetjen's. It is on the east side of the highway, 30 miles from Carmel, about a mile south of Nepenthe and immediately south of the Henry Miller Library. It's about 2 miles north of the Coast Gallery, 5 miles north of Partington Cove, 7 miles north of JP Burns park, and 60 north of Hearst Castle. Did you see their beautiful and interesting web site? www.deetjens.com.
The walls don't talk at Deetjen's, but the famous guest journals do. Pretty amazing reading, and one of the major attractions of the place. It draws good writers (and you definitely qualify!)
And maybe the ghosts talk, as a book on haunted California places which the staff can show you has a chapter on Deetjen's. The ghost of Grandpa Deetjen is notorious for haunting and running off guests who he feels are not "right" for his beloved place, which may explain some of the Tripadvisor.com reviews.
One Tripadvisor reviewer (actually in the "loved it" category as opposed to the small but outspoken minority of "hated it" reviews--no one is neutral) had an encounter with a benign and friendly female ghost who is said to haunt the Inn room in which he stayed, which used to be her home (she was the restaurant manager.) He had not heard the stories, and did not know anyone else had ever had the same experience until he read about her much later in an article in the New York Times travel section! (I have stayed in that room myself, but, regrettably, she did not appear for me.)
More down to earth advice: as much as I myself love Deetjen's, I would not recommend it for parties including kids. The walls are thin, the mood is quiet and contemplative, and there are not the creature comforts and electronic amenities that nearly all kids expect. Instead, it's a wonderful place for adult couples and singles seeking a uniquely Big Sur style experience of peace and renewal.
Many who find the accommodations too rustic still love the restaurant (not open for lunch, but extraordinary for breakfast as well as candlelit dinners.)
And for lunch or beverages, next time, try Cielo at the Ventana Inn. Just north of Nepenthe, but at a much higher altitude, so the view from their outdoor terrace(unless it's foggy up there, which happens) is just as awesome as Nepenthe's, but quite different. The food and service at Cielo are outstanding, as opposed to only good in my opinion at Nepenthe, and for not too much more money at lunch, as I remember it. (It's much pricier at dinner.)
Between reading your memories and writing mine, I'm ready to go back right now too!
Aug 23rd, 2005, 10:31 AM
#48
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ET, maybe that San Jose fellow was right and we are the same person after all. Not only did we start a post reassuring ellen about the "Vertigo" tower simultaneously (yours was not there when I started mine, and in addition to rambling on for a long time as I tend to, I had a lengthy interruption in the middle of writing it), but I also got turned on to Big Sur first thru "The Sandpiper," and I too much prefer Big Creek Bridge to Bixby Creek.
A note to texasjo: McWay Falls in JP Burns park has never been dry when I've been there, and I'm pretty sure that includes late summer/fall visits. It has always been there falling into the ocean, and I don't think it goes away, although I am not certain.
Big Sur, with its frequent fogs, is not as dry an environment in the summer as Yosemite, where the falls regularly dry up, is. I do remember once being unable to see the falls because of fog, though! But it's the nature of the coastal fog that an hour of so earlier or later, the falls would have been visible.
A note to texasjo: McWay Falls in JP Burns park has never been dry when I've been there, and I'm pretty sure that includes late summer/fall visits. It has always been there falling into the ocean, and I don't think it goes away, although I am not certain.
Big Sur, with its frequent fogs, is not as dry an environment in the summer as Yosemite, where the falls regularly dry up, is. I do remember once being unable to see the falls because of fog, though! But it's the nature of the coastal fog that an hour of so earlier or later, the falls would have been visible.
Aug 24th, 2005, 03:59 PM
#51
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You go, Ellen! Like utahtea has said, we are just sitting here waiting breathlessly for the next installment!
JBC: LOL! You and me both equals one! Reminds me of that picture where if you cover up one side of the face, it's a man; cover up the other side and it's a woman! That's us! LOL!
utahtea: you're welcome! Hope you find the best time of year to go on vacation! Big Sur is wonderful in October and November!
JBC: LOL! You and me both equals one! Reminds me of that picture where if you cover up one side of the face, it's a man; cover up the other side and it's a woman! That's us! LOL!
utahtea: you're welcome! Hope you find the best time of year to go on vacation! Big Sur is wonderful in October and November!
Aug 24th, 2005, 09:54 PM
#54
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easytraveler,
The way things are looking now, it will probably be Oct. or Nov. before we can go anywhere this year.
I guess ellen, unlike us, has a life outside the Fodor's message boards!
Utahtea
The way things are looking now, it will probably be Oct. or Nov. before we can go anywhere this year.
I guess ellen, unlike us, has a life outside the Fodor's message boards!
Utahtea
Aug 31st, 2005, 11:28 AM
#55
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Wow, almost a week later... you guys are so sweet...and funny! I’m really sorry its taking me so long to finish this report, it seems like we took the trip a lifetime ago. And now it almost seems inconsequential in light of the hurricane Katrina devastation, which i can't stop thinking and praying about.... Anyway, theres just never enough time, i wish i could spend more time on fodors too ..i need a vacation! 
Utahtea, we are kindred spirits and we’ve even considered going the RV route someday when both kids fly the nest. I've often wondered how many trips to utah you've taken? Your expert advice has been key to the success of so many fodorites' vacations, including ours.
Karens, i too was totally confused when i started researching big sur, it took awhile to figure it out.
texasjo, our time on the coast was also limited since it was only part of a longer road trip. While there’s much we still want to see, exploring Point Lobos, Andrew Molera and Julia Pffeiffer will definitely give you an excellent 'sampler' of the coast. But do try to find partington ridge where you’ll likely see whales. We've done whale 'tours' (Port Townsend, Washington) but seeing them off the ridge was simply exhilarating, just thrilling. And please post a report when you return.
Ladynole35, hope your trip is awesome nd i’ll look forward to reading your trip report, too.
Hi Easytraveler! Re the bridges - not familiar with individual names but i most certainly DID notice them on hwy 1 ... i was was more jittery crossing the bridges than on the winding, hair pin turns…just thinking about whats below while seemingly suspended in air at the ‘edge of the world’ ...when all you can see below you is fog, yet knowing the depths of the ocean….and sharks!
Actually, it was a RUSH! You are soo lucky living nearby; how often do you get a chance to hike and explore the area?
Hi JBC411! Thanks so much but I don’t know if i’d qualify for those journals... .. while planning this trip i'd read about the journals on their website and found it very intriguing indeed! We considered staying there but they didn’t have room for 4. I was totally intrigued however which is why i asked if the walls talked....after reading some excerpts, can you even imagine....??!! How often have you stayed there?
And the Fog. Totally mesmerizing. Never saw anything quite like it, seemingly just hanging in the air like fluffy cotton balls, often with bright blue both above and below. And it would arrive then disappear with such fickle intermittance! Like the morning in Monterey when i got in a great sunny run, only to have thick fog appear shortly later.
Utahtea, we are kindred spirits
and we’ve even considered going the RV route someday when both kids fly the nest. I've often wondered how many trips to utah you've taken? Your expert advice has been key to the success of so many fodorites' vacations, including ours.Karens, i too was totally confused when i started researching big sur, it took awhile to figure it out.
texasjo, our time on the coast was also limited since it was only part of a longer road trip. While there’s much we still want to see, exploring Point Lobos, Andrew Molera and Julia Pffeiffer will definitely give you an excellent 'sampler' of the coast. But do try to find partington ridge where you’ll likely see whales. We've done whale 'tours' (Port Townsend, Washington) but seeing them off the ridge was simply exhilarating, just thrilling. And please post a report when you return.
Ladynole35, hope your trip is awesome nd i’ll look forward to reading your trip report, too.
Hi Easytraveler! Re the bridges - not familiar with individual names but i most certainly DID notice them on hwy 1 ... i was was more jittery crossing the bridges than on the winding, hair pin turns…just thinking about whats below while seemingly suspended in air at the ‘edge of the world’ ...when all you can see below you is fog, yet knowing the depths of the ocean….and sharks!
Actually, it was a RUSH! You are soo lucky living nearby; how often do you get a chance to hike and explore the area?Hi JBC411! Thanks so much but I don’t know if i’d qualify for those journals...
.. while planning this trip i'd read about the journals on their website and found it very intriguing indeed! We considered staying there but they didn’t have room for 4. I was totally intrigued however which is why i asked if the walls talked....after reading some excerpts, can you even imagine....??!! How often have you stayed there? And the Fog. Totally mesmerizing. Never saw anything quite like it, seemingly just hanging in the air like fluffy cotton balls, often with bright blue both above and below. And it would arrive then disappear with such fickle intermittance! Like the morning in Monterey when i got in a great sunny run, only to have thick fog appear shortly later.
Aug 31st, 2005, 05:21 PM
#56
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RAGGED POINT, HEARST CASTLE... and CAMBRIA
We had a mixed experience at Ragged Point. While the views are surely second to none, being right on the top of a 300foot cliff overlooking the mighty Pacific, it was very cloudy / foggy when we were there and we saw very little. I realize there's no rhyme or reason to the fog (is there?) and we somehow didn't luck out. The rooms have floor to ceiling windows facilitating this awesome view, but its not too awesome when there's nothing to see. There are no balconies but a nice grassy area with adirondeck chairs overlooking the ocean but it was way too windy for us to linger very long. The food is expensive although interesting, and it took less than 5 minutes to do their gift shoppe. Being perched on the edge of a cliff doesn't allow for much tidepool exploring etc., when the hike down to the tidepools is potentially life-threatening (per their signs everywhere.) So there's not a lot to do there for a family of active adventurers. Its time like that when the ole scrabble board is brought out, or a mean game of blackjack. Ragged Point does have a little kiosk for quite yummy lattes, frappacinos, smoothies etc.
Hearst Castle. You MUST see this castle. Even if you've explored castles in England and Scotland (and we have) this one is unique. IMO it's the best example of the American spirit and what can be accomplished. We toured Hearst Castle on one of our first out west road trips but since our kids were younger, their memories were a bit foggy. And i don’t think they were showing the same video in the late 90s either, does anyone know? This newer video was excellent, very descriptive. Mr. Hearst's energy, passion and creativity were inspiriting. And it was also heartening to see how very influential is mother was in his life!
Heading towards Cambria, we stopped again at Piedras Blancas to watch the antics of the Elephant Seals. Just too funny, and noisy!
We loved Moonstone Beach! I can't speak to Cambria as much because once we found our room at the MOONSTONE LANDING INN, we didn't want to leave. After much research (and I DO mean A LOT) I was thrilled to find this property. Thanks Paula for the tip!
(We would have stayed again at the Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Inn in San Simeon but an oceanfront room was more than we wanted to pay. Oceanview rooms were available but not guaranteed and we didn't want to chance not getting one.)
We had a mixed experience at Ragged Point. While the views are surely second to none, being right on the top of a 300foot cliff overlooking the mighty Pacific, it was very cloudy / foggy when we were there and we saw very little. I realize there's no rhyme or reason to the fog (is there?) and we somehow didn't luck out. The rooms have floor to ceiling windows facilitating this awesome view, but its not too awesome when there's nothing to see. There are no balconies but a nice grassy area with adirondeck chairs overlooking the ocean but it was way too windy for us to linger very long. The food is expensive although interesting, and it took less than 5 minutes to do their gift shoppe. Being perched on the edge of a cliff doesn't allow for much tidepool exploring etc., when the hike down to the tidepools is potentially life-threatening (per their signs everywhere.) So there's not a lot to do there for a family of active adventurers. Its time like that when the ole scrabble board is brought out, or a mean game of blackjack. Ragged Point does have a little kiosk for quite yummy lattes, frappacinos, smoothies etc.
Hearst Castle. You MUST see this castle. Even if you've explored castles in England and Scotland (and we have) this one is unique. IMO it's the best example of the American spirit and what can be accomplished. We toured Hearst Castle on one of our first out west road trips but since our kids were younger, their memories were a bit foggy. And i don’t think they were showing the same video in the late 90s either, does anyone know? This newer video was excellent, very descriptive. Mr. Hearst's energy, passion and creativity were inspiriting. And it was also heartening to see how very influential is mother was in his life!
Heading towards Cambria, we stopped again at Piedras Blancas to watch the antics of the Elephant Seals. Just too funny, and noisy!
We loved Moonstone Beach! I can't speak to Cambria as much because once we found our room at the MOONSTONE LANDING INN, we didn't want to leave. After much research (and I DO mean A LOT) I was thrilled to find this property. Thanks Paula for the tip!
(We would have stayed again at the Best Western Cavalier Oceanfront Inn in San Simeon but an oceanfront room was more than we wanted to pay. Oceanview rooms were available but not guaranteed and we didn't want to chance not getting one.)
Sep 4th, 2005, 12:17 AM
#57
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Ellen,
My best guess is about 25 trips to Utah in the last 33 years. Sometimes it was just for a couple of days and sometimes it was for weeks! One trip were were all the way up in Glaicer National Park and it rained for 5 days straight so we headed down to Zion for some sun!
It's killing me because it doesn't look like we are going anywhere this year on vacation. I'm going to have to live vicariouly from your trip report! We're donig some major remodeling this month instead of taking a trip. I told DH the money we saved on gas by not going had to be used for new furniture...LOL!
Utahtea
My best guess is about 25 trips to Utah in the last 33 years. Sometimes it was just for a couple of days and sometimes it was for weeks! One trip were were all the way up in Glaicer National Park and it rained for 5 days straight so we headed down to Zion for some sun!
It's killing me because it doesn't look like we are going anywhere this year on vacation. I'm going to have to live vicariouly from your trip report! We're donig some major remodeling this month instead of taking a trip. I told DH the money we saved on gas by not going had to be used for new furniture...LOL!
Utahtea
Sep 4th, 2005, 05:53 PM
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Wow, wonderful trip you had, and great, detailed report.
Thanks for posting and looking forward to reading the rest of it.
RE the Monterey pedestrian paths, we also saw something similar last year, when two bike riders (tandem) znd a *surry* couple almost *duked* it out.
They seemed to be locals.
We were strolling the path and found it somewhat surprising!
Would be interssted in hearing if that's a common experience there, as it seems to be quite wide enough for everyone.
Thanks for posting and looking forward to reading the rest of it.
RE the Monterey pedestrian paths, we also saw something similar last year, when two bike riders (tandem) znd a *surry* couple almost *duked* it out.
They seemed to be locals.
We were strolling the path and found it somewhat surprising!
Would be interssted in hearing if that's a common experience there, as it seems to be quite wide enough for everyone.
Sep 8th, 2005, 07:07 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys! Between a sucky computer, Katrina, and just life, this report is taking longer to write than it did to take 
I'm going to try and finish it in the next couple days. Thanks to anyone who is still reading...?
Utahtea, you should write a book. Instead, you give such amazing help over and over and over, bless you! So next year, you'll have to take TWO vacations to make up for this year! And yes, definitely go for the furniture!
Wanderluster, i too would like to know the deal with the Monterey pedestrian path! It sure seems like there's a story there. Any of you local insiders know?
Hi Scarlett, so nice to hear from you! But hey, you saw a camel! Did you name him, i don't think you said? And it sure seems we're the only people on earth that haven't been to portland! On the way to the Seattle and Olympic NP we did crater lake but that's it for OR. Maybe next summer if i can talk clark into making it an even ten trips west....!? Any G2Gs planned?
I'm going to try and finish it in the next couple days. Thanks to anyone who is still reading...?Utahtea, you should write a book. Instead, you give such amazing help over and over and over, bless you! So next year, you'll have to take TWO vacations to make up for this year! And yes, definitely go for the furniture!
Wanderluster, i too would like to know the deal with the Monterey pedestrian path! It sure seems like there's a story there. Any of you local insiders know?
Hi Scarlett, so nice to hear from you! But hey, you saw a camel! Did you name him, i don't think you said?
And it sure seems we're the only people on earth that haven't been to portland! On the way to the Seattle and Olympic NP we did crater lake but that's it for OR. Maybe next summer if i can talk clark into making it an even ten trips west....!? Any G2Gs planned?
