The Great Coastal Wine and Food Trip of 2004
Jun 4th, 2004, 05:43 PM
#1
The Great Coastal Wine and Food Trip of 2004
After getting all sorts of info from this site when planning our trip to California, I figure a trip report is in order.
My wife and I flew out of JFK (fast security clearance) to SFO, picked up our rental car from Enterprise, and headed south. I think Dollar must have had lower rates, because they had a long line and Enterprise had no line at all except for us. We chose a compact car both for the gas milage and for ease in dealing with driving those roads with the stomach churning signs like "Narrow Twisting Road Next 63 Miles." The Ford Focus did the job without a problem and got over 30 mpg to boot. Got onto highway 1 via the quick 380/280 route.
Stopped for the night in Santa Cruz, had web reservation at Comfort Inn Beach/Boardwalk, a nice place, with full facilities (even a fridge and microwave) and decent breakfast included. Cheap and fully satisfactory place. Ate at Omei (restaurant reports to come in a later post).
Next day headed down highway 1 to Monterey. Morning at the aquarium, a place that is not to be missed. Great displays of everything from deep water fish to tidal pools, anenomes, starfish, shorebirds, etc. The best displays included the sea otters (viewable from under or above water or on a level half under and half above. Don't miss the feeding, when they show off like crazy. Also great was the fish feeding by a diver in a two-storey glass-walled tank, who became covered with about a thousand fish looking for their calimari fix. The feedings are scheduled, so you shouldn't miss them. The most striking set of displays were the living jellyfish, glowing art floating under water, some large, some small, all amazing. I hear the local hotels offer two day passes for the price of one admission. We came on a weekday and could see everything in one go, but I heard that weekends are crowded.
Afternoon was for Fisherman's Wharf and Cannery Row, both fully touristy, but fun. Bought fruit wines at Bargetto. Their grape stuff is ordinary, but I have never found better fruit wine -- got ollalieberry and raspberry. Checked into the Hyatt (Priceline made it cheaper than Motel 6). The room was big and equipped with everything except airconditioning (not needed) and also no fridge or minibar. Dinner at Cafe Fina on the wharf.
Next day, Carmel. Walking, shopping, checking out photography galleries. My wife found a clothing store closing up and bought bargains. The daily AM greyness started to lift, so we hopped into the car and took off for Big Sur, that road with the 63 mile sign. Great views and white knuckles from driving next to the edge of the world. Lunch (late) at Nepenthe, for the view and because we always eat ther when we travel to California. Then back to Monterey and Carmel. Dinner at La Boheme in Carmel.
Sunday morning, check out and head north. Stopped at Bonnie Doon Winery (winery reports in a later post), and also stopped at an organic strawberry farm on highway 1 that offered chocolate coverd strawberries and amazingly good strawberry preserves. Bought for gifts and ourselves. Had lunch in Half Moon Bay. Crossed the Golden Gate Bridge in the afternoon, without traffic problems. Went to the viewpoint, then up to the Marin Headlines for the best views. If you are interested in photos, go in the late afternoon, when the light and shadows are most dramatic, drive to the top and check out the changing views of bridge, bay, islands, and city on your way back down.
Continued north on highway 1, great views and more twisting roads. Wanted to see Bodega Bay to confirm Hithcock "Birds" location. Missed the whole town. Unlike everywhere else we traveled, the signs were not clear, by choice I believe. Got to Jenner, a 1 block town with 2 overpriced B&B's as the only places to stay. Decided to head inland on 116, found a great village on the Russian River: Monte Rio. Took a room at the Rio Villa, which looked like a motel but had its own river beach. Got the least room in the place, and it turned out to be a real suite, with a fully separate bedroom and a tv in both rooms. Nice breakfast the next day with fancy breads, granolas, fruit, juice, etc. For dinner after our arrival they recommended the Village Inn, which is on the other side of the river with a bunch of other places to stay. It looked like a nice hotel, too. The food was top notch, and the wine list was outstanding.
Monday after breakfast went back to the coast and headed north toward Mendocino. More great views and twisty roads. Lunch in Gualala, an uninteresting little place but good food. Mendocino was like a mini-Carmel, with art and shops. Got chocolate truffles and ollalieberry preserves. Then headed toward wine country via 128, another narrow twister, this time through redwoods and orchards. Stopped to buy white peaches. Bedded down in Cloverdale, a town with nothing open Monday night except a bar and an ordinary Chinese restaurant.
The next three days were in Napa and Sonoma. Stayed at the Napa River Inn, a luxury boutique hotel in an old industrial building. Great breakfasts, no view. Spent our time eating and drinking, to be reported later. Visited Copia Center in Napa, which was OK. Nice gardens, great food. Next door is JV Wines and Liquors, selling about a thousand wines at less than winery prices.
Final leg was San Francisco, stayed at the Hilton (Priceline again). Found a $20 lot for the car as we arrived too late to turn it in 'til the next day. The hotel wanted $40. There had been a lot of traffic on the Oakland Bridge. In SF, decided not to buy transit passes, got a 10-pack of tokens, and even that was too many rides, because when you use the Muni you get a transfer that allows 1.5-2 hours of on/off rides, and once the tram had a broken farebox so the driver let everyone ride for free. (New Yorkers may now go into fits of laughter.) We did lots of walking in a futile effort to walk off the Napa/Sonoma wine and food. Wandered Chinatown, paid almost nothing for lunch, then did Fisherman's Wharf and Ghiradelli Square. Those chocolate people just kept handing out samples, and we had intensely delicious ice cream sundaes. SF meals to be reported later. Sunday there was a Carnival Parade and street fair in the Marina district. The parade was OK, but the street fair was far less interesting than those in NYC. Monday was for packing and a last trip to Ghiradelli. Got the airport by shuttle, saved $5 each by clling ourselves rather than using the hotel's service. No wait at security (who flies Memorial Day afternoon?) and back to JFK.
Air flights were by American, providing a little extra legroom and almost edible food. On or ahead of time both flights.
The weather in this part of California at the end of May was almost the same every day: Grey morning, glorious afternoon, cool evening. We're lucky to 2 days a year like that in NY.
As you can tell, we like chocolate, wine, and food, and don't like to spend on what we don't need.
Coming next, when I have more time: Restaurants and Wineries.
My wife and I flew out of JFK (fast security clearance) to SFO, picked up our rental car from Enterprise, and headed south. I think Dollar must have had lower rates, because they had a long line and Enterprise had no line at all except for us. We chose a compact car both for the gas milage and for ease in dealing with driving those roads with the stomach churning signs like "Narrow Twisting Road Next 63 Miles." The Ford Focus did the job without a problem and got over 30 mpg to boot. Got onto highway 1 via the quick 380/280 route.
Stopped for the night in Santa Cruz, had web reservation at Comfort Inn Beach/Boardwalk, a nice place, with full facilities (even a fridge and microwave) and decent breakfast included. Cheap and fully satisfactory place. Ate at Omei (restaurant reports to come in a later post).
Next day headed down highway 1 to Monterey. Morning at the aquarium, a place that is not to be missed. Great displays of everything from deep water fish to tidal pools, anenomes, starfish, shorebirds, etc. The best displays included the sea otters (viewable from under or above water or on a level half under and half above. Don't miss the feeding, when they show off like crazy. Also great was the fish feeding by a diver in a two-storey glass-walled tank, who became covered with about a thousand fish looking for their calimari fix. The feedings are scheduled, so you shouldn't miss them. The most striking set of displays were the living jellyfish, glowing art floating under water, some large, some small, all amazing. I hear the local hotels offer two day passes for the price of one admission. We came on a weekday and could see everything in one go, but I heard that weekends are crowded.
Afternoon was for Fisherman's Wharf and Cannery Row, both fully touristy, but fun. Bought fruit wines at Bargetto. Their grape stuff is ordinary, but I have never found better fruit wine -- got ollalieberry and raspberry. Checked into the Hyatt (Priceline made it cheaper than Motel 6). The room was big and equipped with everything except airconditioning (not needed) and also no fridge or minibar. Dinner at Cafe Fina on the wharf.
Next day, Carmel. Walking, shopping, checking out photography galleries. My wife found a clothing store closing up and bought bargains. The daily AM greyness started to lift, so we hopped into the car and took off for Big Sur, that road with the 63 mile sign. Great views and white knuckles from driving next to the edge of the world. Lunch (late) at Nepenthe, for the view and because we always eat ther when we travel to California. Then back to Monterey and Carmel. Dinner at La Boheme in Carmel.
Sunday morning, check out and head north. Stopped at Bonnie Doon Winery (winery reports in a later post), and also stopped at an organic strawberry farm on highway 1 that offered chocolate coverd strawberries and amazingly good strawberry preserves. Bought for gifts and ourselves. Had lunch in Half Moon Bay. Crossed the Golden Gate Bridge in the afternoon, without traffic problems. Went to the viewpoint, then up to the Marin Headlines for the best views. If you are interested in photos, go in the late afternoon, when the light and shadows are most dramatic, drive to the top and check out the changing views of bridge, bay, islands, and city on your way back down.
Continued north on highway 1, great views and more twisting roads. Wanted to see Bodega Bay to confirm Hithcock "Birds" location. Missed the whole town. Unlike everywhere else we traveled, the signs were not clear, by choice I believe. Got to Jenner, a 1 block town with 2 overpriced B&B's as the only places to stay. Decided to head inland on 116, found a great village on the Russian River: Monte Rio. Took a room at the Rio Villa, which looked like a motel but had its own river beach. Got the least room in the place, and it turned out to be a real suite, with a fully separate bedroom and a tv in both rooms. Nice breakfast the next day with fancy breads, granolas, fruit, juice, etc. For dinner after our arrival they recommended the Village Inn, which is on the other side of the river with a bunch of other places to stay. It looked like a nice hotel, too. The food was top notch, and the wine list was outstanding.
Monday after breakfast went back to the coast and headed north toward Mendocino. More great views and twisty roads. Lunch in Gualala, an uninteresting little place but good food. Mendocino was like a mini-Carmel, with art and shops. Got chocolate truffles and ollalieberry preserves. Then headed toward wine country via 128, another narrow twister, this time through redwoods and orchards. Stopped to buy white peaches. Bedded down in Cloverdale, a town with nothing open Monday night except a bar and an ordinary Chinese restaurant.
The next three days were in Napa and Sonoma. Stayed at the Napa River Inn, a luxury boutique hotel in an old industrial building. Great breakfasts, no view. Spent our time eating and drinking, to be reported later. Visited Copia Center in Napa, which was OK. Nice gardens, great food. Next door is JV Wines and Liquors, selling about a thousand wines at less than winery prices.
Final leg was San Francisco, stayed at the Hilton (Priceline again). Found a $20 lot for the car as we arrived too late to turn it in 'til the next day. The hotel wanted $40. There had been a lot of traffic on the Oakland Bridge. In SF, decided not to buy transit passes, got a 10-pack of tokens, and even that was too many rides, because when you use the Muni you get a transfer that allows 1.5-2 hours of on/off rides, and once the tram had a broken farebox so the driver let everyone ride for free. (New Yorkers may now go into fits of laughter.) We did lots of walking in a futile effort to walk off the Napa/Sonoma wine and food. Wandered Chinatown, paid almost nothing for lunch, then did Fisherman's Wharf and Ghiradelli Square. Those chocolate people just kept handing out samples, and we had intensely delicious ice cream sundaes. SF meals to be reported later. Sunday there was a Carnival Parade and street fair in the Marina district. The parade was OK, but the street fair was far less interesting than those in NYC. Monday was for packing and a last trip to Ghiradelli. Got the airport by shuttle, saved $5 each by clling ourselves rather than using the hotel's service. No wait at security (who flies Memorial Day afternoon?) and back to JFK.
Air flights were by American, providing a little extra legroom and almost edible food. On or ahead of time both flights.
The weather in this part of California at the end of May was almost the same every day: Grey morning, glorious afternoon, cool evening. We're lucky to 2 days a year like that in NY.
As you can tell, we like chocolate, wine, and food, and don't like to spend on what we don't need.
Coming next, when I have more time: Restaurants and Wineries.
Jun 9th, 2004, 06:23 PM
#3
Continuing the trip report of our recent California road trip. As amateur foodies, we looked for interesting places to eat, using guidebooks and websites for making selections. Although it may sound like I am listing every meal we had, I'm only posting the most worthwhile ones, in chronological order. Use it at your own risk (weight gain, cholesterol).
Omei, in a strip mall in Santa Cruz, is listed as a sort of modern Chinese and I have to agree. You enter into a calm 3-room oasis with art on the walls and marbletop tables. The menu was intriguing. We were offered 6 small plates of vegetarian appetizers. From the menu we tried dishes including sweet potato chunks in a complex saute, Shrimp with julienned Chinese sausage and ginger, and Szetchuan twice cooked smoked pork that turned out to be an interesting thich sliced chewy bacon with cabbage, etc. There were many other interesting things on the menu, too. The wine list was great and very well priced. We had Bonny Doon Pacific Reisling, which went very well with the food. Overall price more than neighborhood Chinese, less than any equivalent quality and style western restaurant.
Cafe Fina, Monterey, on Fisherman's Wharf. There are many places offering similar menus on the tourist wharf; this one was in the guidebook. They make excellent seafood. We had sandabs and Petrale sole. A coupon-postcard from a rack outside got us a free appetizer: perfectly made calimari with 2 sauces, in large quantity. The only drawback to this place is, curiously enough, its panoramic water view: we came when the sun was low, and most of the seats got the sun in your eyes unless the shades were drawn, which sort of defeats the purpose of a view. Upstairs is Siberia. Go at night or at noon. The desserts were uninteresting, so we went along the wharf to a place that had exquisite gellatos and ice creams.
Nepenthe, Big Sur on Highway one near Ventana. It's on the ocean side of the road, high up from the water, and you can miss the sign. It was once the home of Orson Welles. This was a return visit for us, and it hasn't deteriorated in the 20 years that have passed. You sit outside and look at an unmatchable view of coast and mountains and water and birds and you don't mind that the price is about $5 more than it should be if you had your eyes closed. We had an albacore tuna sandwich and a grilled chicken sandwich, both with fancy fixings and salad. Fries are extra, high quality, and copious. For a place with a view that would keep it full even if it served airline food, the high qulity remains greatly appreciated. They also have a large gift shop that had curiously low prices for many items. Go figure.
La Boheme, Carmel. Recommended on this board, so I looked it up and liked the idea. An authentic recreation of a neighborhood French restaurant. Set menu changes daily, no choice except dessert. We saw that the night's menu was fillet mignon, and even thogh the book said "no reservations" they took ours. Meal started with a delicious carrot soup, a typical French salad with cheese and charcuterie, then the steak (cooked to a non-French medium rare rather than French bloody) with red wine, shallot, and currant sauce, green beans, marvelous pureed potatoes. I had creme caramel dessert (served warm and fragrant), my wife had a fantasy dessert of chocolate-almond cake with fruit coulis. The wine list was nice, and two wines were on special for the meal. We had an R H Phillips EXP syrah that was superb with the meal and priced at little more than retail. Go, if you like the night's menu. Their website lists the main courses in advance, if you're into obsessive planning.
The Village Inn, Monte Rio, on route 116, just inland from Jenner on Highway 1 North of Bodega Bay. Actually, it's over a bridge across the Russian River on a road parallel to 116. It has redwood trees shading the parking lot. Got this place on recommendation from the place we stayed in Monte Rio (see previous post in this series). It's a hotel with a restaurant that was almost too good to believe. White table cloths, outdoor dining if the weather's nice. We had appetizers of black bean soup and a salad with greens, goat cheese, nuts, and dried cherries, main courses Petrale sole (I was jealous of my wife's entree in Monterey), and shrimp-and-dungeness-crab cakes, with nice sides. The wine list here was well priced and well chosen. There was a separate short list of wine specials, marked down (bin ends?). Had a good muscat.
Celedon, in Napa in the Hatt Building. Lovely patio with a fire pit. Fusion menu put together with intelligence for flavor rather than for odd combinations. This restaurant is reviewed on this site, and the statements are accurate, but less enthousiastic than I would be. Great wine list for the food, also. I think, looking back, that this is the one restaurant I would recommend above all others that we ate at. Most bang for the buck, and an awful lot of bang.
Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford, Napa Valley. The reviews are accurate also: Great view, top food in small portions, almost formal (but no neckties), almost overwhelming wine list -- it must have been over 50 pages long. Too bad they keep their prices too high. Everything we tasted was perfect. Order from the menu rather than the no-choice tasting menu and you'll like everything. Bring money. Lots of it. Don't be late, or risk their obnoxious $50 missed reservation fine. And enjoy the view.
Julia's Kitchen, Copia Center, Napa. Ate here on a gift, priced lower than Auberge du Soleil, similar quality, less formal, friendly. Stresses organic veggies and fruits from their own garden. Better wine list than Auberge, shorter and more fairly priced. Don't miss the apricot tart for 2, if it's on the menu when you're there. Drawback: Food main ingredients too similar to the other top Napa restaurants although each had an entirely different style. If I had to do it again, I'd eat at only one of the last three I just listed.
Jai Yun, Pacific Street, San Francisco. Not for the faint of heart. Chinese, little English. Almost no English, I mean. If you have a food allergy as I do, get a Chinese friend to write it down for you in Mandarin. The chef serves many plates of inventive and unusual flavors. You choose how much you'll pay starting at $35 and for about 2 hours things keep coming from the kitchen. More money means more dishes. For $45 each we got 17 dishes, 8 cold, 9 hot, majority vegetarian. No decor. No forks. Superb food. To make a reservation (required), follow the directions on their website (which is in excellent English).
Slanted Door, Ferry Building, San Francisco. Modern Vietnamese, well celebrated, well reviewed on this site. Tied with Celedon for best food of the trip. Really strict on reservatoions, arrive a little early. The grapefruit and jicama salad is justly famous. Loved the spring rolls, too. And the clay pot chicken will make your tongue vibrate. Every seat has a view.
Well, that's the list. If you want, add Two Fools in Half Moon Bay and the Oakville Grocery in Oakville for great sandwich lunches.
Eventually: Wineries.
Omei, in a strip mall in Santa Cruz, is listed as a sort of modern Chinese and I have to agree. You enter into a calm 3-room oasis with art on the walls and marbletop tables. The menu was intriguing. We were offered 6 small plates of vegetarian appetizers. From the menu we tried dishes including sweet potato chunks in a complex saute, Shrimp with julienned Chinese sausage and ginger, and Szetchuan twice cooked smoked pork that turned out to be an interesting thich sliced chewy bacon with cabbage, etc. There were many other interesting things on the menu, too. The wine list was great and very well priced. We had Bonny Doon Pacific Reisling, which went very well with the food. Overall price more than neighborhood Chinese, less than any equivalent quality and style western restaurant.
Cafe Fina, Monterey, on Fisherman's Wharf. There are many places offering similar menus on the tourist wharf; this one was in the guidebook. They make excellent seafood. We had sandabs and Petrale sole. A coupon-postcard from a rack outside got us a free appetizer: perfectly made calimari with 2 sauces, in large quantity. The only drawback to this place is, curiously enough, its panoramic water view: we came when the sun was low, and most of the seats got the sun in your eyes unless the shades were drawn, which sort of defeats the purpose of a view. Upstairs is Siberia. Go at night or at noon. The desserts were uninteresting, so we went along the wharf to a place that had exquisite gellatos and ice creams.
Nepenthe, Big Sur on Highway one near Ventana. It's on the ocean side of the road, high up from the water, and you can miss the sign. It was once the home of Orson Welles. This was a return visit for us, and it hasn't deteriorated in the 20 years that have passed. You sit outside and look at an unmatchable view of coast and mountains and water and birds and you don't mind that the price is about $5 more than it should be if you had your eyes closed. We had an albacore tuna sandwich and a grilled chicken sandwich, both with fancy fixings and salad. Fries are extra, high quality, and copious. For a place with a view that would keep it full even if it served airline food, the high qulity remains greatly appreciated. They also have a large gift shop that had curiously low prices for many items. Go figure.
La Boheme, Carmel. Recommended on this board, so I looked it up and liked the idea. An authentic recreation of a neighborhood French restaurant. Set menu changes daily, no choice except dessert. We saw that the night's menu was fillet mignon, and even thogh the book said "no reservations" they took ours. Meal started with a delicious carrot soup, a typical French salad with cheese and charcuterie, then the steak (cooked to a non-French medium rare rather than French bloody) with red wine, shallot, and currant sauce, green beans, marvelous pureed potatoes. I had creme caramel dessert (served warm and fragrant), my wife had a fantasy dessert of chocolate-almond cake with fruit coulis. The wine list was nice, and two wines were on special for the meal. We had an R H Phillips EXP syrah that was superb with the meal and priced at little more than retail. Go, if you like the night's menu. Their website lists the main courses in advance, if you're into obsessive planning.
The Village Inn, Monte Rio, on route 116, just inland from Jenner on Highway 1 North of Bodega Bay. Actually, it's over a bridge across the Russian River on a road parallel to 116. It has redwood trees shading the parking lot. Got this place on recommendation from the place we stayed in Monte Rio (see previous post in this series). It's a hotel with a restaurant that was almost too good to believe. White table cloths, outdoor dining if the weather's nice. We had appetizers of black bean soup and a salad with greens, goat cheese, nuts, and dried cherries, main courses Petrale sole (I was jealous of my wife's entree in Monterey), and shrimp-and-dungeness-crab cakes, with nice sides. The wine list here was well priced and well chosen. There was a separate short list of wine specials, marked down (bin ends?). Had a good muscat.
Celedon, in Napa in the Hatt Building. Lovely patio with a fire pit. Fusion menu put together with intelligence for flavor rather than for odd combinations. This restaurant is reviewed on this site, and the statements are accurate, but less enthousiastic than I would be. Great wine list for the food, also. I think, looking back, that this is the one restaurant I would recommend above all others that we ate at. Most bang for the buck, and an awful lot of bang.
Auberge du Soleil, Rutherford, Napa Valley. The reviews are accurate also: Great view, top food in small portions, almost formal (but no neckties), almost overwhelming wine list -- it must have been over 50 pages long. Too bad they keep their prices too high. Everything we tasted was perfect. Order from the menu rather than the no-choice tasting menu and you'll like everything. Bring money. Lots of it. Don't be late, or risk their obnoxious $50 missed reservation fine. And enjoy the view.
Julia's Kitchen, Copia Center, Napa. Ate here on a gift, priced lower than Auberge du Soleil, similar quality, less formal, friendly. Stresses organic veggies and fruits from their own garden. Better wine list than Auberge, shorter and more fairly priced. Don't miss the apricot tart for 2, if it's on the menu when you're there. Drawback: Food main ingredients too similar to the other top Napa restaurants although each had an entirely different style. If I had to do it again, I'd eat at only one of the last three I just listed.
Jai Yun, Pacific Street, San Francisco. Not for the faint of heart. Chinese, little English. Almost no English, I mean. If you have a food allergy as I do, get a Chinese friend to write it down for you in Mandarin. The chef serves many plates of inventive and unusual flavors. You choose how much you'll pay starting at $35 and for about 2 hours things keep coming from the kitchen. More money means more dishes. For $45 each we got 17 dishes, 8 cold, 9 hot, majority vegetarian. No decor. No forks. Superb food. To make a reservation (required), follow the directions on their website (which is in excellent English).
Slanted Door, Ferry Building, San Francisco. Modern Vietnamese, well celebrated, well reviewed on this site. Tied with Celedon for best food of the trip. Really strict on reservatoions, arrive a little early. The grapefruit and jicama salad is justly famous. Loved the spring rolls, too. And the clay pot chicken will make your tongue vibrate. Every seat has a view.
Well, that's the list. If you want, add Two Fools in Half Moon Bay and the Oakville Grocery in Oakville for great sandwich lunches.
Eventually: Wineries.
Jun 9th, 2004, 08:22 PM
#4
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Great report! I also adore the sand dabs at Cafe Fina. Domenico's makes them also and the are very good there.
I also enjoyed La Boheme many years ago with a large group of girlfriends. I'm glad it's still good, look forward to returning there soon.
I also love Auberge, a true splurge place. Glad you enjoyed that also. Thanks for the report! ***kim***
I also enjoyed La Boheme many years ago with a large group of girlfriends. I'm glad it's still good, look forward to returning there soon.
I also love Auberge, a true splurge place. Glad you enjoyed that also. Thanks for the report! ***kim***
Jun 11th, 2004, 03:12 PM
#5
Forgot to mention the Paris Bakery in Monterey. Give-up-your-diet-NOW quality pastery. So much better than any hotel breakfast. If you are anywhere near there, you must try the almond croissant. Look in the phone book for the address. It was listed by the local paper as the best bakery on the Monterey Peninsula.
Jun 15th, 2004, 05:45 PM
#6
What would a wine and food trip be without wine? That's really what California is for, isn't it? So what if they are charging for tastes of the good stuff. Every hotel and inn has a rack of cards and maps with coupons for free tastings, and you can find them on the internet and in the throwaway magazines, too.
I don't recommend tasting everything everywhere. Each tasting room has 5-10 wines to taste and after three places your tongue goes numb. Look for nice settings, a type of wine you particularly like, recommendations from friends, and don't be afraid to spit or dump a glass of undistinguished chardonnay. Other posters have recommended wineries that have nice spots for picnics and such. If you need fixings, the Oakville Grocery was just the place to get them.
My wife and I are experienced wine lovers with an extensive wine cellar and ready access to New York wine sellers, so ordinary was out. Also, with modern viticulture and wine making methods, just about any vineyard can make technically acceptable wine. We were not interested in another smiling face saying "We'll start with the light whites, move on to the reds, and end with our late harvest specialty." Avoided the Wines of Minimal Distinction (WMD's) endlessly repeated at each winery, nor was there much point in more tours of stainless steel fermantation vats.
Instead, we aimed to taste and perhaps buy unusual wines that left an emotional decision that said we had to have more of this wine. The targets: big Zinfandels, sweet dessert wines, Pinot Blanc, and, if found, another world's best Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, a few bottles of good stuff for co-workers who were still drinking WMD's. The limits: No legal shipments to New York and a bad back, so the total purchase would be limited to 6 bottles in the luggage and a 6-bottle carrier each for my wife and myself. We did it, if you don't count another case that slipped through to NY by UPS.
The first thing I would recommend is to arrange some private tastings in advance at places not ordinarily open to the public. All it takes is a phone call or two. We chose Arrowood (Sonoma Valley) on the recommendation of a friend who said they had great Pinot Blanc and Viognier. Their whites were fantastic (purchased several), reds excellent, and the tour showed how a small winery operates with great attention to minute details that add quaility.
The other advance appointment was with a very small winery (no sign, no tasting room) in Napa, Tulocay Winery, where Bill Cadman, who also has worked at Mondavi, has been making exceptional wines for 20-plus years. We sat on the back porch, admired the cat, ate cheese, and had phenominal reds including a perfect Pinot Noir that was only bottled a few weeks earlier, and his only white, a Chardonnay made without oak that you would swear was French. Originally met him 20 years ago on referal from Neil Rosenthal, who imports Tulocay wines to New York. Check out both Tulocay and Neil Rosenthal Wine Merchant websites, and if you see any of these wines, buy without hesitation. Had a mixed case of pre-relase wines shipped to NY, and it arrived yesterday without a hitch.
Some of the wineries run special programs in addition to the routine tour-and-tasting. We were given tickets for "The Art of Wine and Food" at Mondavi, which includes a nice lecture on the real history of wine in California and a slightly expurgated history of the Mondavis, a look at some of the more esoteric aspects of the winery, and a private lunch catered by their top chef with a wide variety of Mondavi wines (in Reidel glasses, in unlimited amounts!), and a reserve tasting at the end. The program is limited to 10 people, and may be worth the $95 usual charge. I think we got some special treatment by dropping Bill Cadman's name.
Mondavi was an example of what can be done with wine even in large quantity -- excellent wine for every day and also for reserve use. Except for the sweet late harvest, there was no point in taking any home on the plane because Mondavi is available everywhere.
We also did walk-in tastings. First was Bargetto in Monterey (Cannery Row), a return visit after 20 years. Back then they made a wonderful array of fruit wines, the best we have found anywhere. This time we bought raspberry and ollalieberry. The others such as apricot and peach are no longer made. Yes, Bargetto has gone over to the Dark Side, making WMD cabernet, chardonnay, and such. It's easier to sell but of no merit. If you are in Monterey, buy the world's best raspberry wine before they give that up, too.
After having Bonny Doon reisling at Omei Restaurant, we had to taste their other stuff, and found them up a little winding road nearby. Most of their excellent wines are available in NY, so only bought their extraordinary sweet muscat dessert wine. Dessert not included, and with this wine, not needed.
In search of monster zins, we made sure to stop at Ridge. Years ago we went to their real place in Cupertino, but they now have a tasting room at Lytton Springs (Sonoma Valley) with ancient vines that produce extremely concentrated flavors. Arrived before they opened, so went down the block to Dry Creek Vineyards, another haven for zin addicts. Dry Creek was excellent, but not exceptional. As the first tasters on a slow weekday, we charmed them out of a few ounces without paying a tasting fee. Then we were first of the day at Ridge, where we sprang for the pricey tasting (just one glass and one fee for two people 'cause we're driving). They do make exceptional wines, so we bought and the fee was refunded. Some Ridge wines are available in NY, so I made sure to buy only those that are limited to winery sales. I think Tulocay's reds are of equal quality, but of a different less massive style even though the alcohol level is just as high. I gotta have both.
I am a fan of Pinot Blanc, said to be the parent variety of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It makes an elegant white wine without that annoying California chardonnay flavor that I become tired of. The wine steward at Celedon said Robert Sinskey Vineyards made the best PB, and the maitre d' said the same so we checked them out. This place had the best nibbles (olives and herb toasted almonds) and really good wines, but the Pinot Blanc was sold out for the vintage and the next vintage had yet to be bottled. Tasted, paid, no purchase, but only because we had set up the above private tastings. If you want to try some excellent wines with individual character, this is a place you can walk into and do almost as well as at a private tasting. Had never heard of them before. It pays to chat with people.
Many years ago we discovered wines from Sutter Home, mainly Amador County Zinfandel, late harvest zinfandel, and Moscoto Amabile (a sweet muscat), all very reasonably priced. Now the winery seems to be represented in NY only by white zinfandel, an abominable creation. Stopped at Sutter Home - Trinchero Family Estates to find out what they were up to, and it ain't pretty. They've gone the WMD route, too. Got a free tasting by using the coupon in the winery map that is available everywhere, and got what we paid for.
So, those were our tastings. We tried more wines with our meals, of course, and also tasted at a wine bar in Napa, the Bounty Hunter. It's worth a stop.
Other posters have mentioned that you can save money buying wine at Safeway, instead of the wineries. We checked out two Safeways and it isn't worth it except maybe to save a buck for a picnic. The selection was mainly lower end from the wineries they carried, the prices were sometimes slightly less than at the winery with a Safeway card, and sometimes more than at the winery. We found better. Check out JV Wines and Liquors, in Napa next to the Copia Center. They had significant discounts (up to 50% off) and a huge selection, including a lot of the expensive bottles.
I also agree that the Sonoma Valley and the Russian River Valley are nicer to tour than the Napa Valley, but you can do both Napa and Sonoma if you plan a reasonable route. The northen ends of both valleys are more rural, weekdays mean less traffic, and never drive the Oakville Grade unless you are stone cold sober.
That's it on the trip report. Will monitor to answer questions.
I don't recommend tasting everything everywhere. Each tasting room has 5-10 wines to taste and after three places your tongue goes numb. Look for nice settings, a type of wine you particularly like, recommendations from friends, and don't be afraid to spit or dump a glass of undistinguished chardonnay. Other posters have recommended wineries that have nice spots for picnics and such. If you need fixings, the Oakville Grocery was just the place to get them.
My wife and I are experienced wine lovers with an extensive wine cellar and ready access to New York wine sellers, so ordinary was out. Also, with modern viticulture and wine making methods, just about any vineyard can make technically acceptable wine. We were not interested in another smiling face saying "We'll start with the light whites, move on to the reds, and end with our late harvest specialty." Avoided the Wines of Minimal Distinction (WMD's) endlessly repeated at each winery, nor was there much point in more tours of stainless steel fermantation vats.
Instead, we aimed to taste and perhaps buy unusual wines that left an emotional decision that said we had to have more of this wine. The targets: big Zinfandels, sweet dessert wines, Pinot Blanc, and, if found, another world's best Cabernet Sauvignon. Also, a few bottles of good stuff for co-workers who were still drinking WMD's. The limits: No legal shipments to New York and a bad back, so the total purchase would be limited to 6 bottles in the luggage and a 6-bottle carrier each for my wife and myself. We did it, if you don't count another case that slipped through to NY by UPS.
The first thing I would recommend is to arrange some private tastings in advance at places not ordinarily open to the public. All it takes is a phone call or two. We chose Arrowood (Sonoma Valley) on the recommendation of a friend who said they had great Pinot Blanc and Viognier. Their whites were fantastic (purchased several), reds excellent, and the tour showed how a small winery operates with great attention to minute details that add quaility.
The other advance appointment was with a very small winery (no sign, no tasting room) in Napa, Tulocay Winery, where Bill Cadman, who also has worked at Mondavi, has been making exceptional wines for 20-plus years. We sat on the back porch, admired the cat, ate cheese, and had phenominal reds including a perfect Pinot Noir that was only bottled a few weeks earlier, and his only white, a Chardonnay made without oak that you would swear was French. Originally met him 20 years ago on referal from Neil Rosenthal, who imports Tulocay wines to New York. Check out both Tulocay and Neil Rosenthal Wine Merchant websites, and if you see any of these wines, buy without hesitation. Had a mixed case of pre-relase wines shipped to NY, and it arrived yesterday without a hitch.
Some of the wineries run special programs in addition to the routine tour-and-tasting. We were given tickets for "The Art of Wine and Food" at Mondavi, which includes a nice lecture on the real history of wine in California and a slightly expurgated history of the Mondavis, a look at some of the more esoteric aspects of the winery, and a private lunch catered by their top chef with a wide variety of Mondavi wines (in Reidel glasses, in unlimited amounts!), and a reserve tasting at the end. The program is limited to 10 people, and may be worth the $95 usual charge. I think we got some special treatment by dropping Bill Cadman's name.
Mondavi was an example of what can be done with wine even in large quantity -- excellent wine for every day and also for reserve use. Except for the sweet late harvest, there was no point in taking any home on the plane because Mondavi is available everywhere.
We also did walk-in tastings. First was Bargetto in Monterey (Cannery Row), a return visit after 20 years. Back then they made a wonderful array of fruit wines, the best we have found anywhere. This time we bought raspberry and ollalieberry. The others such as apricot and peach are no longer made. Yes, Bargetto has gone over to the Dark Side, making WMD cabernet, chardonnay, and such. It's easier to sell but of no merit. If you are in Monterey, buy the world's best raspberry wine before they give that up, too.
After having Bonny Doon reisling at Omei Restaurant, we had to taste their other stuff, and found them up a little winding road nearby. Most of their excellent wines are available in NY, so only bought their extraordinary sweet muscat dessert wine. Dessert not included, and with this wine, not needed.
In search of monster zins, we made sure to stop at Ridge. Years ago we went to their real place in Cupertino, but they now have a tasting room at Lytton Springs (Sonoma Valley) with ancient vines that produce extremely concentrated flavors. Arrived before they opened, so went down the block to Dry Creek Vineyards, another haven for zin addicts. Dry Creek was excellent, but not exceptional. As the first tasters on a slow weekday, we charmed them out of a few ounces without paying a tasting fee. Then we were first of the day at Ridge, where we sprang for the pricey tasting (just one glass and one fee for two people 'cause we're driving). They do make exceptional wines, so we bought and the fee was refunded. Some Ridge wines are available in NY, so I made sure to buy only those that are limited to winery sales. I think Tulocay's reds are of equal quality, but of a different less massive style even though the alcohol level is just as high. I gotta have both.
I am a fan of Pinot Blanc, said to be the parent variety of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It makes an elegant white wine without that annoying California chardonnay flavor that I become tired of. The wine steward at Celedon said Robert Sinskey Vineyards made the best PB, and the maitre d' said the same so we checked them out. This place had the best nibbles (olives and herb toasted almonds) and really good wines, but the Pinot Blanc was sold out for the vintage and the next vintage had yet to be bottled. Tasted, paid, no purchase, but only because we had set up the above private tastings. If you want to try some excellent wines with individual character, this is a place you can walk into and do almost as well as at a private tasting. Had never heard of them before. It pays to chat with people.
Many years ago we discovered wines from Sutter Home, mainly Amador County Zinfandel, late harvest zinfandel, and Moscoto Amabile (a sweet muscat), all very reasonably priced. Now the winery seems to be represented in NY only by white zinfandel, an abominable creation. Stopped at Sutter Home - Trinchero Family Estates to find out what they were up to, and it ain't pretty. They've gone the WMD route, too. Got a free tasting by using the coupon in the winery map that is available everywhere, and got what we paid for.
So, those were our tastings. We tried more wines with our meals, of course, and also tasted at a wine bar in Napa, the Bounty Hunter. It's worth a stop.
Other posters have mentioned that you can save money buying wine at Safeway, instead of the wineries. We checked out two Safeways and it isn't worth it except maybe to save a buck for a picnic. The selection was mainly lower end from the wineries they carried, the prices were sometimes slightly less than at the winery with a Safeway card, and sometimes more than at the winery. We found better. Check out JV Wines and Liquors, in Napa next to the Copia Center. They had significant discounts (up to 50% off) and a huge selection, including a lot of the expensive bottles.
I also agree that the Sonoma Valley and the Russian River Valley are nicer to tour than the Napa Valley, but you can do both Napa and Sonoma if you plan a reasonable route. The northen ends of both valleys are more rural, weekdays mean less traffic, and never drive the Oakville Grade unless you are stone cold sober.
That's it on the trip report. Will monitor to answer questions.
Jun 16th, 2004, 05:20 PM
#10
Went to Bonny Doon a few miles from Santa Cruz, off Highway 1. There was a tasting room but no vineyards. They said the vines didn't do well there and they used grapes from elsewhere in Californis.
Jun 22nd, 2004, 07:37 AM
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I'll keep that in mind when we go to that area. They have a great tasting room & vineyards in Paso Robles if you are ever that way. We are going back in Sept to visit some other that we missed but will always stop there for our Pacific Reisling!
Sep 20th, 2004, 11:11 AM
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While everyone else is raving about AJ's trip report, I have a few bones to pick.
Gualala is NOT an "uninteresting little place" though, I agree, we do have good food. Besides the beautiful river, the ocean and the towering redwoods, we also have an unsusal mix of people not often found in a typical small town.
Also, how you missed Bodega Bay is beyond me. There are not only clearly marked road signs but a lot of the businesses have Bodega Bay on their signs. Bodega Bay has a bigger population than Gualala but you found us. What's the deal? Perhaps you were thinking of the inland town of Bodega where the schoolhouse from "The Birds" is located.
Gualala is NOT an "uninteresting little place" though, I agree, we do have good food. Besides the beautiful river, the ocean and the towering redwoods, we also have an unsusal mix of people not often found in a typical small town.
Also, how you missed Bodega Bay is beyond me. There are not only clearly marked road signs but a lot of the businesses have Bodega Bay on their signs. Bodega Bay has a bigger population than Gualala but you found us. What's the deal? Perhaps you were thinking of the inland town of Bodega where the schoolhouse from "The Birds" is located.
Sep 20th, 2004, 11:51 AM
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Does Graham still call his tasting room "The Lost Weekend Saloon"?
I love the creativity that goes into Bonny Doon and his other labels. My old fave was called "Myrtle", a blueberry distillation that allowed me to make blue kirs for parties.
Thanks for your excellent report of your trip. Bravo or brava, as the case may be. LilMsFoodie
I love the creativity that goes into Bonny Doon and his other labels. My old fave was called "Myrtle", a blueberry distillation that allowed me to make blue kirs for parties.
Thanks for your excellent report of your trip. Bravo or brava, as the case may be. LilMsFoodie
Sep 20th, 2004, 12:20 PM
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I'm with you Lisa! Perhaps the more
folks that find Gualala "uninteresting"
the more we'll have it for ourselves!
The wild Sonoma Coast is not for everyone!
( and yes,perhaps the reason they missed
"The Bird's" schoolhouse
is because it is in the inland town of Bodega not Bodega Bay.)
I do agree with AJ about the Monterey Bay aquarium, Celedon in Napa (don't go to this restaurant, we want to keep it for ourselves!)
and,although snobby,U did like the new definition of WMD's.
R5
folks that find Gualala "uninteresting"
the more we'll have it for ourselves!
The wild Sonoma Coast is not for everyone!
( and yes,perhaps the reason they missed
"The Bird's" schoolhouse
is because it is in the inland town of Bodega not Bodega Bay.)
I do agree with AJ about the Monterey Bay aquarium, Celedon in Napa (don't go to this restaurant, we want to keep it for ourselves!)
and,although snobby,U did like the new definition of WMD's.
R5
