Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   United States (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/)
-   -   The Alaska Trip Report: Part 2 (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/the-alaska-trip-report-part-2-a-395690/)

CarolJean Feb 19th, 2004 10:11 PM

Oaktown - Thank you soo much for sharing your wonderful trip with us. What an incredible experience. Have been to most of the places you visited. (But certainly havent had some of your experiences.) One place I empathized with you on was Anchorage. Is there a good hotel in Anchorage? Ours was baad (and on the parking lot.) But couldn't find another. Thanks again for taking the time on this great report. Looking forward to the rest. Happy travels! CJ

Deborah Feb 20th, 2004 07:07 AM

Hi Oaktown:

Sorry your weather was bad on the 26 Glacier tour. The day I went it was just fantastic and one of the days I will always remember up there. The captain was a lovely man. Too bad the people on your boat were so crabby! Can't wait for the end and counting the days til I go in May!

April Feb 20th, 2004 08:33 AM

I wish this trip report would never end. But off the topic a moment, where is Oaktown?

OaktownTraveler Feb 22nd, 2004 01:57 PM

Hello Everybody!

Let's see... Thanks!

Glad I still got you reading...

There are good hotels and B&B's in Anchorage...they were just completely booked when I needed them...

Oaktown is a nickname. I live in Piedmont which is surrounded by the beautiful and wonderful city of Oakland, California.

I JUST got back from a weekend with the hubby so I gotta un-pack, get the mail, read the newspapers, go through the voice and e-mail and so on so forth...

If I catch a break I will give you another installment.

My Best,
Oaktown Traveler

OaktownTraveler Feb 23rd, 2004 01:25 PM

Day 27 of 30

While sitting on the Alaska Railroad Train to DENALI I got the news about the weather...

It was reported that the rains were beyond heavy and that the train tracks beyond TALKEETNA had benn washed away by the unseasonal floods...

We were told that in TALKEETNA that a coach would take us from the train and deliver us to DENALI PARK.

I continued to enjoy my breakfast in the dining car while completing my reading about DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE...

The train that I was on was old compared to the Princess Cruise Trains that were in the front of our train.

It was sprinkling in Anchorage so we had no idea of what had been going on up north.

The scenery was absolutel beautiful. I spent most of my time in the Dome Car taking it all in.

Our train was going slowly because of the weather conditions.

The waters in the now raging rivers were brown like chocolate milk. They were runnig like faucets turned on full blast!
The waters were also very high and Alaska Railroad crews were all along the tracks working and watching...

The tall trees and striking Fireweed were still sights to see.

As we left the Chugach Mountains and the Cook Inlet the rain became real heavy.

Our journey through Kink Arm, Eklutna, Matanuska, Whitney, Palmer, Wasilla and the Talkeetna Mountains was really awesome.

Once in Talkeetna we were informed that we would indeed continue to DENALI on the train.

I was elated!

From Talkeetna we traveled on through the Talkeetna River, Curry, the Susitna River, Hurricane Gulch, Honolulu, Colorado, Broad Pass, tried in absolute vain to catch a glimpse of MT.MCKINLEY and on through the Summit, Cantwell and Oliver.

The sun was out by the time we reached DENALI.

I had made lodging reservations at The Denali River Cabins so I went about trying to find our bus driver...

After about 20 good minutes I still could not find our bus driver. Another couple begin to search for our driver too. We got worried after several of the like sounding coaches of lodges with Denali this or Denali that begin to leave with their passengers and lodge guest.

A really nice driver for Denali something or other helped us find our driver. Our driver was busy yaking with another driver and had set her sign down next to the bus so no one could have found her even if they really tried...

We had to stop at the Denali Visitors Center because some of our passengers need to pick up their excursion tickets.

Well, Denali is HUGE so for someone to request a detour sounded fine but wound up impacting some of the passengers big time.

In short this detour added another thirty minutes between our arrival in DENALI proper and our check in at our lodging destination.

Believe it or not but when we got to the visitors center is was aproximately 80 degrees so I forgot about alll this flood talk...

I made it to my Cabin which I loved hands down. I was on the river and could easily see the raging water.
My cabin was spacious, with a great bathroom and excellent deck space.

I confirmed my excursions but was told that all of the white water rafting trips were cancelled because of the water...it finally hit me that my class one "rapids" excursion would be no less than a class five.
People had been hurt on excursions which also led to the interium cancellation by those offering the very dangerous water adventures...

I am not a swimmer so I did cancel my white water rafting trip that was eventually cancelled completely anyway.

That aside, I still had other excursions booked for my time in Denali that would not have me drowning in the Nenana River of Alaska...

It was still warm out when dinner time came so I got all dressed up for my Dinner Show.

I had booked ALASKA CABIN NITE a live dinner show. The food of ribs and halibut was delicious and the show was loads of fun.
My table mates were great folks who loved having a great time.

I needed to be up tomorrow by 4:30am so I thanked my wonderful tablemates for the invite to join them back at their lodge, The McKinley Chalet for after dinner cocktails...

At around 1:00am the sun began to set and I was finally able to take my 4 hour power nap for the "night"...

Oaktown Traveler

OaktownTraveler Feb 23rd, 2004 02:02 PM

Day 28 of 30

WHEW! I was up at 4:30am. I took a hot shower and made my way to breakfast by 5:30am.

The front page of The Anchorage Daily Newspaper told the details and showed the photos of what the unseasonal and unusual floods had done to Denali National Parks.

Cabins had been washed away, businesses had been closed and creeks looked like large bay inlets!

I read as I ate and stopped mid fork full when the newspaper reported that there was a severe flood warning for Little Chena River!!!!

This was major as I had a reservation to stay at The Chena Hot Springs...

The paper also reported that Fairbanks was one tenth of an inch from setting a wettest RECORD!

Well, where do you think I was headed after my time in Denali...?

*****That reminds me, I was on my journey for 32 days vs. 30*********

So, you get two more days of trip report. See the power of positive thinking!

Trying not to worry about what would, could or should happen to the last days of my Alaska trip I ate up and went across the road to meet my coach to take me on my excursion.

I was still quite excited about my TRUNDRA WILDERNESS TOUR of Denali.

This 6 to 8 hour excursion was to show us all things Denali...

My tour was EXCELLENT! I saw bear, cubs, caribou, Dall sheep, and the beautiful Polychrome Pass...awesome!

I took massive amounts of photos and I really enjoyed our provided box lunch and the folks on board were just great too.

The weather was very good so I began to question the power of the press and all this reported up north weather mess...

Our excursion ended early evening and I have to say I think it was money well spent.
I learned alot about Denali National Park and all things Alaska...

I decided to change for dinner. Ithen made my way to The Summitt Restaurant which was a treat!!!
The Summitt is a Princess run establishment.

The evening was lovely and the sun was shining through my window hitting my dinner table.

I could see the sweeping river and the big blue sky. I deemed Denali to be another magical place on this earth.
I thanked God for allowing me to be here and to experince this entire journey...

My food and drink was delicious. Service was topps.

I stayed for hours writing and reflecting on just about everything Alaska and everything Oaktown...

Now, that's what I call a lot of reflecting...

I made my way by coach to my cabin. I packed as I would be continuing my journey to northern Alaska late tomorrow...

My time in Denali was going great. Absolutely great!

Oaktown Traveler

OaktownTraveler Feb 23rd, 2004 02:40 PM

Day 29 of 32

DENALI NATIONAL PARK, ALASKA

Because I had cancelled my white water rafting adventure I had the morning to sleep in...and I did that very well.

I set my luggage out so that the lodge folks could take it to the train. I had a quick lunch and headed to my SADDLE SAFARIS 2HOUR HORSE RIDE that I had scheduled through the Denali Park Resorts.

Before this excursion I got in the last of my shopping in Denali. They were having sales so I caved in and bought some cute Alaska things...

My horse ride was very good. Today the rain was quite present but I love riding horses so the weather just added to the journey.

My trail mates turned out to be all women. We hung in there through the real rain storm and through the really rough tundra that the horses where rocking and walking through.

At about 30 minutes into our horse ride I asked our guide if I could modify my 2 hour Trundra horseback ride to a 1 hour.

I felt like a whimpy woman but the other women started laughing, in the pouring rain, and said that they had thought about making the very same request!

Relieved and beyond soaking wet, we decided that we would make this a 1 hour ride...

We had on long yellow raincoats that blocked some of the chill that was beginnig to cut into our thighs...

The ride was beautiful but I was happy to dis-mount my horse and get my super soaked behind in my coach...

When we returned to Denali I talked my Cabin folks into letting me get fresh clothes. Thankfully my luggage had accidentially gotten left behind(!) and had not yet been taken to the train.

What a great thing! I had time between my train ride and my horse ride so I sat sipping some hot chocolate and wrote post cards and read today's newspaper...

After reading the newspaper and after much inner debate I contacted the folks at The Chena Hot Springs. They were so honest. They said that their guest were being taken out by helicopter because the road was indeed under water and that they had no idea when they would not be in their current situation which was suppose to get worse before it got better...

So,there evaporated my plans to hot tub, atv, get my massage and other body treatments...there it went just like that!

The folks at The Chena Hot Springs Resort thanked me for calling and I wished them the best of luck...

My train ride from Denali to Fairbanks was good. The rain was unreal but I was inside reading and relaxing so I was fine.

During the planning of this trip I had thought about renting a car from Denali to Fairbanks...needless to say I was so glad that I had stuck with my train...

I enjoyed my glass of champagne and my last train ride of my Alaska journey...

The rocky cliffs and the raging waters of the Nenana and Tanana and Chena Rivers through Healy, Usibelli Tipple, Ferry, Clear, Nenana, and Happy were incredible!

I enjoyed a tasty dinner in the beautiful Dining Car of my train. I lavished every bite of my last Alaska Railroad meal of this journey...

My hotel in FAIRBANKS, ALASKA provided a cab to come and pick me up from the train station.

I liked the Art Decco look of the Hotel and I even liked my room...

I enjoyed a nice hot bath and re-arranged my plans to cover the time that I now had because of the Chena Hot Springs cancellation.

At around 1:30am I fell asleep in Fairbanks, Alaska...

Oaktown Traveler

Ani Feb 23rd, 2004 02:40 PM

Still a great story! I have to admit, though, that everytime you write about all the photos you too I wish you would post them online at some point!

OaktownTraveler Feb 23rd, 2004 03:10 PM

Day 30 of 32

FAIRBANKS, ALASKA

At 2:00am I was awaken by the terrifying and violent sounds of the worse physical, verbal and other assult in the world.

The very drunk couple that was on the floor above me were involved in this altercation from hell.

Startled and very scared I called the front desk and was told that they had already called the police...

In short the police came to the hotel 3 times between 2:00am and 3:30am when they finally arrested one of them and kicked the other one out!

My nerves were shot to say the least. I was angry that I would have to experience something this horrible.

I felt bad for the woman and for the man. Alcohol is indeed a significant problem for some people in Alaska.

I slept in after the person on duty stopped calling me to apologize...

This morning I had a long chat with the manager/owner who explained that the guy on duty last night had let his friends have the room and that she was terribly sorry etc....

I made a note to stay away from "budget" properties while on travel...no-matter-what!

Sadly, the hotel drama and terror on my exqusite 32 day journey to Alaska was contained to the hotels that I had knowingly booked because they were inexpensive...

Inexpensive is still over $150.00 with tax and all in Alaska.

I went on to continue my vacation.

I went shopping and sightseeing in Fairbanks. I went to the Visitor Center and got all of the information about the floods and all that.

I had a delicious breakfast at McCafferty's Coffee Shop...delicious.

I spent significant time at the unique Ice Museum, Dog Mushing Museum and the Fairbanks Museum...very unique.

The weather was not raining so I was able to walk around Fairbanks with ease.

Early evening I got dressed for my excursion to Ester Gold Camp!

Here I enjoyed a delicious Crab Buffet Dinner.
They had lots of other food...all delicious!

I then took in The Northern Lights Photosymphony Show at The Firehouse Theatre. This was great.

I then went to my last Dinner Show of my Alaskan journey. I went to the Malemute Saloon Celebration!!!

I really had a ball. I guess with this being close to the end of my trip to Alaska I just whooped it up with the rest and the best of them!!!

Very late that night the Ester Gold Camp Bus dropped me at my hotel.

As promised by the owner of my hotel, no drunk or totally disfunctunal folks were allowed to rent the room above mine...tonight...

A very full and exciting day in Fairbanks, Alaska.

Oaktown Traveler

OaktownTraveler Feb 23rd, 2004 03:51 PM

Day 31 of 32

FAIRBANKS, ALASKA

This morning the sun was shining brightly! I had to get out early for my excursion.

I was happy to be going on a journey to the heart of Alaska...

I was going on THE RIVERBOAT DISCOVERY!!

This boat is reportedly rated as the #1 boat tour in North America. I say its really fabulous.

We cruised the Chena and Tanana Rivers on an authenic sternwheeler.

We visited the Chena Indian Village seeing all things Native American...

We saw the luxury homes and we saw Susan Butcher's Iditarod champion sled dogs in action...

We saw smoke houses for salmon and we saw the Alaskan Bush Pilot skills and so much more...

What a great time. I bought lots of things from their shop at the dock and from the boat.

Everybody was having a good time in the sun. Great!!!

Early that afternoon I picked up my rental car.

I stopped at a few shops and shopping centers since I had the car. I then headed to a destination that I was very excited about...

I went to The NORTH POLE, ALASKA!!!

The North Pole Alaska is truly where the spirit of Christmas lives year round.

I went to the Post Office and bought lots of North Pole things and I went to the anemic Visitors Center and got nothing...

I drove around the town looking at and photographing the candy cane lamp post and the like.

I then went to The Santa Clause House and spent tons of time enjoying
"Christmas"...

I ordered a couple of things in an attempt to limit the fiscal damages...

I finally tore myself away from The NORTH POLE, ALASKA and headed up to the famed and massive TRANS-ALASKA PIPELINE...

I had found a spot that I could drive to, park and walk along the Pipeline without being considered a threat to homeland security folks.

The ride from The North Pole to the Trans-Alaska Pipeline was georgous, sunny and fun!
I think I was really enjoying driving my first car in 31 days...smile.

My highway passed the road to the Chena Hot Springs and it was shut...still.

I hung out at The Trans-Alaska Pipeline site, took pictures and talked with folks who also came to see this sight.

I headed back to Fairbanks as I had decided to take in the Tanana Valley State Fair...

This State Fair was a treat.

I saw veggies that were huge. I saw beautiful flowers and I saw all things one could imagine to be at a State Fair.

The crafts that were so expensive along my Alaska journey well they were right here waiting to go home with me at prices that I could relate to...

There was live music and lots of people at Bright Lights Pig City which was the theme of this fair.

I stayed a while before deciding that I needed to pack so that I would be able to board my plane...home...

Another great vacation day!

Oaktown Traveler

OaktownTraveler Feb 23rd, 2004 04:16 PM

Day 32 of 32

FAIRBANKS, ALASKA

This morning I wrote a letter to the owner of this hotel. Unfortunately, I had to endure the sounds of a bloody fist fight in the tiny lobby of the hotel...

Turns out the guy who rents hotel rooms to friends was in a heated duel with one of his "friends".

My letter let said owner know that I would not be paying for 2 of my 3 nights. I faxed a copy to our family attorney and told her to contact them and not me if she had a problem.

Peeved, I loaded my rental car with my bags and bid this hotel and its problems good-bye!

I had things to do so off I went to savor The Georgeson Botanical Gardens...

BEAUTIFUL, beautiful and beautiful!!!

I got here very early, manuvered around the road work and landed in nirvana...

I took pictures galore of these flowers that were in all colors and shapes and sizes.
I was so glad that I made this journey.

After about an hour or so I went over to the University of Alaska Museum.

This place is a gem! I saw my final Alaskan exhibits of Alaska people, places and wildlife.
The displays and videos were very good.

Very hungry I went to have breakfast at the famed Sam's Sourdough Cafe. The Cafe had a long line to wait so I went to the counter and ate one of the best breakfast ever!

After this I went to an excellent bookstore and got some Alaska books to share and I picked up a neat book for my time at the airport...

I had some time before I needed to be at the airport so I made a last minute dash to Pioneer Park.

Pioneer Park was a fun stop. Pioneer Park has a half a dozen small musuems and it's Gold Rush Street is charming with shops and folks waiting to greet you.

I took more photos and snapped up some more trinkets...

After filling up the rental car with gas I checked into with Alaska Airlines
for my long flight home...

I had zero problems with my luggage or the TSA folks. I relaxed while waiting and slept during some of my flight.

Upon arrival in California I was exhusted and elated. My 32 day solo journey, with mom at the beginning, had come to a beautiful end.

I felt as if my time alone to the huge land of Alaska was in a word: EXCELLENT!

My Best,
Oaktown Traveler

OaktownTraveler Feb 23rd, 2004 04:57 PM

ALASKA TRIP REPORT...POST SCRIPT

Wow! Thanks to all of you for hanging in there and reading or skimming this far.

Again, I get travel help from folks on these boards and on another travel board so when I am able to I like to try and give what I can.

ANI: Would love to post photos...I have to talk to my folks AGAIN about that. I
can not let on that I even write this extensively least I jeopardize some of my financial agreements that allow me to write, travel and enjoy life. I am sure you understand.

Earlier I was asked about the cost of such a journey to Alaska. I want to say that travel to Alaska is terribly expensive.

The things that I did that were inexpensive proved to be a little too much for ME...for example my few choices of inexpensive hotels.


You gotta remember I was on a combination of planes, trains, boats, cars and the like. The transportation costs were pricey.

I had 30 something nights of lodging...not inexpensive either.

I had as many excursions...expensive... and I am not quite the "brown-bag" girl so my one to three meals a day...added up.

I shopped and got useful things, I sent and shipped a lot of things home...expensive when you add it all up.

My cell phone and land line calls were expensive. I had to have a "come-to-jesus-meeting" with my cell phone folks when I got home because they had clearly misled me BEFORE I left for my vacation to change my cell phone plan.

I bought quite a few clothes, shoes and things even before I left on my vacation to pack with me.

My film and its subsequent development was very expensive...

In all this was a really expensive journey.

Another question that I was asked was if I had two weeks what would I have done...

I would still sail THE INSIDE PASSAGE, go to Juneau, Skagway, and spend time on the Kenai Peninsula. If I could I would squeeze in Denali and call it a very successful trip.

While Glacier Bay was priceless I spent a tiny piece of our son's inheritance to get there. I would not do that again. VERY GLAD that I did it though.

I probably had an extra day in Juneau but I would not change that because I enjoyed my time there minus the RDS junk.

It is safe for a woman to travel to Alaska alone. The day light that last until the wee hours of the morning add to that safety.

The excessive alcoholism are not so much our problem as travellers but, it is something to be aware of if you are independent in your travels.

It's kinda like my first trip to Amsterdam... People told me about the explicit drugs and the sex acts in the windows but when you see it out in the open, with your own eyes and mouth wide open that kinda changes it. Sticks with you...Just like the fallout I experienced because of the severe alcohol issues in Alaska.

Your weather will be across the board. No real amount of planning will prepare you for the unusual and the unseasonal...just bring your best attitude and major amounts of flexibility and you will have a great time in Alaska or anywhere...

Happy Planning, Happy Travels and My Best,

Oaktown Traveler

Deborah Feb 24th, 2004 07:38 AM

This is like ending a good novel! Thanks so much for your wonder report. It brought back a lot of memories from my past trips up there. I am counting the days til May when I will go again. I am hooked on our wonderful state. I have always traveled to Alaska alone and never had any problems. You certainly did it in style. Thanks again for taking the time to post your stories. Where is your next trip?

Deborah Feb 24th, 2004 07:39 AM

whoops, that's "wonderful report"!

OaktownTraveler Feb 24th, 2004 09:58 AM

Deborah:

Your Welcome!

You must be so excited about your trip in May. I am excited for you.

My BIG trip for 2004 is to South America for 4 weeks with my 4 girlfriends...if we can get it together.
If not I and 1 of my girlfriends will go.

My MEDIUM trip for 2004 is to the South West USA with my darling hubby...I gotta get to work on that now that I am done with this Trip Report.

My "small" trips for 2004 are to Sacramento, California for 8 days to take in the Olympic Track and Field Trials. Big Party w/ friends and family!

I will spend a week in Ashland, Oregon at The Shakespeare Festival which includes plays by other fabulous playwriters. I love this!

I will spend a week in Mendocino at our annual camping trip with about 30 other families.

My mom and I are taking another Amtrack Journey! We plan to go to New Orleans, Atlanta, Washington, New York, and Boston.

Our whole family spends one week in Martha's Vineyard every summer so I am trying to coordinate the Amtrack Journey with that.

Our teen will be enrolled at a college in either Virginia or South Carolina so we will be attending our first Parent's Weekend in October at one one these destinations...

And, the DH and I are usually gone on the weekends to Sonoma for winemaker dinners and wine tasting/buying or we are at our place in Pebble Beach doing PB things or we are at some festival, special event, concert, dinner with friends or something...God willing.

My Best,
Oaktown Traveler

Deborah Feb 24th, 2004 01:07 PM

Wow, you are one busy lady! Thanks again for the read. This year I am going to Sitka (so I can fill you in on what you missed) and to Juneau for the whale watching and Tracy Arm. I have done the inside passage already, so this is just a "bonus" trip.

Happy travels!!

LaurenSKahn Feb 24th, 2004 01:32 PM

So sorry your travelogue finally had to end. What a trip!

You sure do a lot of traveling, Oaktown! I thought I did until I saw your list.

My next trip is to Russia in June. Perhaps I can use some of my (very limited Primsleur) Russian skills to visit Sitka, Alaska, sometime!

Thanks again for the wonderful trip report!

Mac123 Feb 24th, 2004 03:46 PM

What a thoroughly entertaining journey. Sure makes me wish I had added an extra week or two to my Alaskan cruise last year. Thanks for the memories and the stories. Sad its come to an end. Enjoy the rest of your travels for 2004. Maybe you can post again on those trips.

Mac123

OaktownTraveler Feb 24th, 2004 03:49 PM

Mac123:

Thank You. I am glad that you enjoyed the report.

My Hubby is glad that the report has come to an end too...smile.

Happy Travels,
Oaktown Traveler

stormygirl Feb 24th, 2004 03:51 PM

Thanks for a great read OT, now I gotta get back to your Spain trip report! :)


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:49 PM.