Songdoc's Kauai Trip Report

Old Aug 29th, 2006, 04:59 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Songdoc's Kauai Trip Report

Kauai Trip Report 8/1 - 8/9/06

The flights from Nashville felt like a new form of torture or an endurance test. All three American flights (Nashville to Dallas, Dallas to L.A., and L.A. to Kauai) were packed and I seemed to always be surrounded by noisy children. The worst part is that I was exhausted and sleeping was out of the question as the lights never went down and the noise and activity never ended. What felt like twelve days later, I arrived in Kauai. I'd reserved a car with Thrifty through Hawaii Discount Car rentals. Thrifty had no record of the reservation (despite my having a confirmation number), but the agent was very nice and was willing to honor the great price. (FYI, when I arrived in Hilo, the Budget agent did have a record of my Hawaii Discount Rental Car reservation.)

I arrived at the Kauai Beach Resort, (five minutes from the airport) on the Eastern shore, irritable and exhausted, seventeen hours after I'd left home. I was booked into the hotel to teach at the Kauai Music Festival, which was being held on the premises. When I woke the next morning and walked the few steps to the beach, the interminable travel day was instantly forgiven and forgotten. Sunrise on the beach was pure magic--especially when I came upon a huge sea turtle.

The hotel itself was "okay." The pluses: absolutely beautiful beach just steps away; nice pool; very friendly, helpful staff; easy check-in; mini fridge in the room; very pleasant torch lighting ceremony with hula show at the pool at sunset. The construction was still not quite finished and there was some scaffolding at the entrance, and a few workmen, but no noise, and nothing that would really matter. The room was "okay." I'd give it 2-1/2 to 3 stars. (It was rated 3-1/2.) Hard to put my finger on what was missing, but this just did not seem like a luxury resort. There was no toilet paper holder or towel rack--so toilet paper and towels sat on the bathroom counter. The furniture looked like it had seen slightly better days--with little nicks and scuffs. I'm not pretentious and I don't need fancy hotels--the location and setting are much more important to me--so if this were a great bargain through Priceline, I'd have been pleased. At full price, this wouldn't be a hotel I would choose -- but again, let me reiterate that it was fine, the location was good, and I had a pleasant stay.

Kauai Activities: I enjoyed strolling Smith's gardens and their Wailua River cruise to the Fern Grotto. ($20) The Grotto was still closed due to rock slides, but the gardens were beautiful with nonstop photo ops. I found the boat ride to be very relaxing and the musical entertainment and hula dancers on the way back made it even better. By the way, despite warnings, I was not prepared for the traffic in Kapa'a. It was terrible during rush hour and I learned to avoid it.

I thoroughly enjoyed my excursions to Opeka’a Falls and Wailua Falls. Both were lovely -- but if I had to choose only one, it would have been Wailua Falls; the pool below and the white birds swooping down and circling made it seem like a magical Chinese brush painting come to life.

The drive to Poipu Beach, through Koloa and the tree tunnel was relaxing and very pretty. I stopped for lunch at Tomkat's in Koloa and had my first Kahlua pig sandwich. Yum -- and nice, "authentic" atmosphere with outside seating overlooking a courtyard. Poipu beach was much more "manicured" and crowded with families than anything I'd seen on the Eastern shore – not my taste, but pretty. Also, enjoyed watching the surfers there. Picked up a good deli sandwich at the deli across from the parking lot to take back for dinner -- because I'd be rushing to attend music festival obligations. FYI, also enjoyed walking and swimming at Lydgate beach.

Restaurants: I'm not a gourmet and don't like to spend big bucks on pretentious restaurants, so I used the Kauai Underground book as a guide to reasonably priced restaurants frequented by locals. The hands-down winner was Kountry Kitchen for breakfast in Kapa’a. The most amazing, HUGE macadamia nut pancakes (with coconut or maple syrup), paired with their "special," Kahlua pig, spinach, onion, and cheese omelet, was one of my most memorable meals EVER. On a second trip to Kountry Kitchen, DP and I split the “special” omelet and three pancakes -- and left over quite a bit. It wasn't "cheap" (about $30 for both of us, w/coffee, tax & tip) -- but worth every penny -- as opposed to the mediocre $16 breakfast buffet at the hotel (although the setting, overlooking the hotel's pool, was lovely).

Also, had tasty, reasonably priced meals in the Kapa'a shopping center with the Safeway (can't remember the shopping center’s name -- but you can't miss it.) Saigon and the other Asian "bistro" were both good -- and Cold Mtn Creamery for dessert was fun. Additional good meals at reasonable prices on the Eastern shore were dinner on the patio at the Oki Diner (in Lihue) and breakfast at the Tip Top -- an experience that instantly transported me to the 1950's. DP arrived when the music fest ended and we moved to Garden Isle Ranch in Kilauea on the North Shore.

We couldn't believe the setting. It was much more impressive than the beautiful shots on the Internet--acres of lush gardens and streams right outside our window. We'd rented a "suite" that was actually a room in the main house ($135/nt.). But since the hosts had relatives visiting, they upgraded us to the cottage ($195/nt) --a totally private mini-house with a rustic, log-cabin type of feel (although it wasn't made of logs!). It wasn't luxurious, but we liked it a lot. FYI, this property is gay-owned, but all are welcome. The hosts were very nice and hospitable.

First stop was the Kilauea lighthouse; very pretty view with birds sailing and swooping. Unfortunately the area where you can hike had closed at 4pm -- but the view from the lookout point was great. I'd been concerned about staying at the notoriously rainy North Shore and that first night, we got pounded with torrential rains. I thought this was not a good sign, and was kicking myself for staying there -- but it turned out to be the effects of tropical storm Fabio. The rest of the days, there were brief, intermittent showers, followed by clouds--and then, bright sunshine. The rain rarely lasted more than twenty minutes.

We drove to Ke'e beach around 9 am and there were very few others visitors there. After a few photo ops with the ubiquitous roosters, we began hiking the Kalalau trail (which begins at Ke’e beach). Remember that the previous night there had been torrential downpours? Well, the trail was incredibly muddy and slippery, in addition to being very rocky and tough to climb. A sane person would have turned back . . . but luckily, I don't fit into that category, so we trudged ahead, slipping and sliding on the muddy inclines that had essentially become mini-streams.

To give you an idea of what the trail was like, the two miles in took two hours. By the time we reached our first view of the Na Pali coast, we had each fallen several times and had skinned knees and bruised shins -- but the moment we saw that view we didn't care. WOW!!! At the end of the two miles where you must ford a stream (at least knee deep) I somehow forgot about the sign, warning about the strong current, and decided to cool off by immersing in the water and marveling at the waterfall. I seriously almost got swept out to sea -- or at least bashed into some nasty rocks. I was lucky to get out of there with only a slight pulled muscle. The views on that hike were among the most memorable of a lifetime. Not to be missed -- but only for those in good shape—especially when it’s muddy.

FYI, by the time we hiked back, the trail was already drying out and was considerably less treacherous. By the way, our 16 ounces of water each wasn't nearly enough on a hot day. When we returned to Ke'e beach (around 1:00pm) it was VERY crowded and parking was impossible. A dip in the ocean after that four-hour hike felt incredible. I'd read others' reports that this beach was dirty. I didn't find it dirty at all--but there were some leave floating in the water. But I'd say that getting there early (or maybe, late) is MANDATORY to park and avoid the crowds. This was a day I'll never forget!!!

On the way back, we stopped for lunch at Subway in Hanalei and browsed the shops. Next stop was the Princeville Resort. WOW!!! I've been around--but this place is fit for royalty. Instead of spending the outrageous amount to eat in one of their gorgeous (but VERY pretentious) restaurants, we walked around and then, watched the sunset on Bali Hai. The views were so pretty that I'd say it would be worth the splurge to spend $28 (plus tax & tip) for the breakfast buffet. By the way, food EVERYWHERE (both restaurants and markets) was really quite expensive--almost double what I'd expect to pay in Nashville--but hey, when I looked at those views, I knew I wasn't in Nashville, so I didn't mind!

A word about the beaches . . . I'd read about scores of different beaches and had made notes; which ones were great for swimming; which for snorkeling; which for walking, etc. In actuality, most of the beaches were not identifiable; meaning the turn-offs from the highway were not marked, nor were there any signs to let you know which beach you were actually at—and very few were acceptable for swimming. But it seemed that wherever I stopped, there were fantastic views. We'd really enjoyed the Eastern Shore -- but the North Shore has it beat as far as I'm concerned. I'm SOOO glad we decided to stay there.

I hadn't booked any excursions in advance because I wanted to be able to be spontaneous -- and I wasn't certain when I'd be needed for the music festival. Unfortunately, that meant no way to attend the Smith Family luau -- or to take any of the boat excursions from Hanalei to see the Na Pali cliffs. They were sold out a week in advance (sniff, sniff).

The Kalalau trail hike was incredible and I never would have imagined that the next day's trip to Waimea Canyon and Koke'e State Park would be just as spectacular in its own way. I felt that while it isn't as large, in some ways, the views, colors, and visual textures at Waimea Canyon surpassed the Grand Canyon. We were utterly blown away. The Canyon Trail hike was astounding. We couldn't believe that there were no guardrails -- and crazy parents were letting their children run along the edge of the cliffs! At the end of the trail, the views are mind-boggling; then you turn a corner and come upon a gushing waterfall. OMG!!! By the way, lunch in the State Park restaurant was pleasant and afforded nice views.

On the way to Waimea, we’d stopped at the Kauai Coffee plantation shop in Lawai. It’s a very pretty setting and I enjoyed seeing how coffee grows, but primarily, it’s a good excuse for coffee tasting and a gift shop – and I bought plenty. (Ironically, Kona coffee is so famous – but I much preferred the coffees I tasted and bought at the Kauai plantation.)

We had a memorable dinner in Hanalei at Neide's. The menu is Brazilian and Mexican and the outdoor courtyard was a very pretty, relaxing setting. We'd read raves about a special Brazilian main course pancake stuffed with fresh pumpkin, taro, assorted fresh vegetables and cheeses. It was FANTASTIC! We shared that and a fantastic steak smothered in garlic and onions. EXCELLENT -- and very reasonably priced (well, for Kauai!).

Kauai FAR exceeded any expectations and I didn't want to leave, but we had reservations and adventures awaiting us on the Big Island. So . . . I'll continue this trip report there!
Songdoc is offline  
Old Aug 30th, 2006, 12:51 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Mahalo doc for the excellent T.R.!

Although controversial, in our experience, The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook helped us locate beaches we otherwise would of missed , but for beaches you can't miss, suggest checking out Maui.
JohnD is offline  
Old Aug 30th, 2006, 01:53 PM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Maui will be next year. What's controversial about the Kauai Underground book? I've seen it mentioned several times as "controversial."
Songdoc is offline  
Old Aug 30th, 2006, 02:09 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,348
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Aloha doc,
I am unaware of controversy regarding the "Underground" guidebook that you mentioned, however the "Ultimate Kauai Guidebook" of the www.wizardpub.com series of guidebooks to Hawaii often provoke mixed opinions.
JohnD is offline  
Old Aug 30th, 2006, 05:10 PM
  #5  
sistahlou
Guest
 
Posts: n/a

What a wonderful report! mahalo! Funny I stayed in Hanalei for 2 weeks this summer and have no recollection of a Subway! Who knew! Nothing like that Napali hike!!!!
 
Old Aug 30th, 2006, 05:59 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report songdoc! I knew you'd love Kaua'i. Gotta love those north shore beaches with no parking! The first time we went to Makua (Tunnels) we drove up and down that stretch of road looking for a sign. Ha! We finally figured it out.
Mahalo again!
-Bill
iamq is offline  
Old Aug 31st, 2006, 10:38 AM
  #7  
lvk
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,265
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Nice report to go along with your gorgeous photos. Sistah, never mind Subway, how did I miss Neide's? Brazilian food? Pancakes with pumpkin? Sounds wonderful! Was that there last year? Must go back to investigate.
lvk is offline  
Old Aug 31st, 2006, 11:08 AM
  #8  
Kal
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
SUBWAY....SUBWAAAAAY!?!?!?

You are lucky you took and posted some fantastic pix of Kauai that Mrs Kal and I drooled over this a.m.

Traffic in Kapa'a? Who knew?

It slows down thru there because it's the original home of "why did the chicken cross the road" joke and it originaated right there by the Safeway/Foodland area.

Mucho mahalos for the "taste".
Kal is offline  
Old Aug 31st, 2006, 11:18 AM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report and pics doc. We just came back from Kauai and Maui and we did the entire hike up to the falls on the Napali Coast. 8 miles and 8 hours later, thought my legs were going to fall off! For future visits, CJ's Steakhouse right in the Princeville shopping center was awesome. (Thanks Auntie!) $27 for the best sirloin I have ever had, upgrade from rice to loaded baked potato for $1, and then salad bar and fresh hot rolls. D*mn that was tasty! And little did I know then, very reasonable for what you got. Envy you your trip to Maui next year~~
cruisin_tigger is offline  
Old Aug 31st, 2006, 11:44 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report! What kind of footwear do you recommend for the Kalalau trail? We will be there in October and I really don't want to bring my hiking boots. My kids live in Teva's. Not enough foot protection? Would old sneakers that can be thrown away after the hike work? Appreciate any suggestions.
wtm003 is offline  
Old Aug 31st, 2006, 11:50 AM
  #11  
Kal
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ahhhh...the old "NaPali footwear debate" is about to begin!

I've hiked it in Tevas, Chacos and Keens.
Loved the Chacos and Keens and I spit on the Tevas.

My in laws used gazillion dollar hi tech hiking boots they felt they needed but then took off to go thru the streams that occasionally pop up on the hike...with the Teva's, Chacos and Keens wade on thru, dry right off.
Kal is offline  
Old Aug 31st, 2006, 12:12 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes, we had Keens - loved 'em! (Actually I had $15 knockoffs from Walmart - still just as good!)
cruisin_tigger is offline  
Old Aug 31st, 2006, 02:32 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,002
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
lvk, we were there in June for two weeks and ate a couple of times at Neide's too. As a vegetarian, it's hard to find tasty items on menus, but their vegetarian quesadilla was DEEElicious! The veges were super fresh. Our server was really sweet too. It's located in the wooden building where the organic/health food store is. Behind the new BarAcuda restaurant.

Sistah, the Subway is inside the Big Save "supermarket" in the Ching Young Center across the street from BarAcuda.
Pilates is offline  
Old Aug 31st, 2006, 04:39 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
FYI, I hiked the trail with $25 Sam's club Reebok sneakers. I scrubbed them when I got back home and they look good as new. But I can't imagine doing eight miles of that trail -- at least not as muddy and slippery as it was when I was there. My hat's off to those who do it!
Songdoc is offline  
Old Sep 2nd, 2006, 12:39 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Songdoc, mahalo for a great, detailed TR!

Thanks for the memories. e.g. ... your review of the hotel. I'd wondered what it's like now, having stayed there yrs ago when it was an Outrigger, and so lovely. And Kountry Kitchen for its wonderful breakfasts--glad to hear that hasn't changed.
Also, your awesome photos. Waaa!! Time to plan another trip.
CaliNurse is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nancy1013
United States
29
Jul 31st, 2007 04:45 PM
DonAZ
United States
13
Aug 19th, 2005 11:50 AM
lasjas
United States
13
Sep 30th, 2004 04:49 PM
Mellyz
United States
28
Dec 31st, 2003 11:05 AM
TroyMan
United States
8
Jul 24th, 2003 05:22 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -