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-   -   Smoky Mountains or White Mountains? (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/smoky-mountains-or-white-mountains-584206/)

asdaven Jan 31st, 2006 11:42 AM

I am adventually going to get to both of these places. But, I need to pick one this year. I figured that the white mountains and maine would be a longer trip and probably would be nice to take 2 weeks to do it because it is farther and more driving and more stuff to see. The smokies I only need a week and a couple days. It is not as far. Since I took a long and far trip (flying somewhere) last year, I will probably do the smokies, since it is not as far. Are the waterfalls running in the smokies in early august? Are the wildflowers still in bloom in the higher elevations?

claire_bluesky Jan 31st, 2006 01:15 PM

You'll run across lots of streams and rivers even as you drive. You have to hike to the falls. Check out the park hiking guides. I don't think rainfall is an issue.

Most of the flowers have come and gone, but you'll run across some late bloomers on the trails and meadows in August.

asdaven Jan 31st, 2006 04:50 PM

So, the falls are usally running good in august? I guess what I am trying to get at, is it okay to go in august or should I try and go a year that I can go in June? Fall,winter,spring is out of the question for me, since I have school-aged children. So, June and August are my options. Unless there is a big difference between June and August, I would rather go this year the second week of august. June would be late june like the second to last week. I assume August is a little cooler than July. Also, July is probably more peak also. Also, I don't usally take off in July. Just june and august. This year I am going somewhere else in June. But have august open. Tourists aren't really an issue for me, since I will be getting away from them when I am hiking. And take the non-congested way into gatlinburg. Weather, waterfalls, and views are what I am worried about.

claire_bluesky Jan 31st, 2006 07:33 PM

More directly, imo June is better. It's hotter and more humid in August, but rainfall isn't an issue. The streams, creeks and falls will be there in June or August. There will be a lot more and varied wildflowers in June. At the high elevations, in the woods, August would be fine, but June would be better. But remember I live about 1-1/2 hrs. away from gatlinburg. One reason we go is to get away from the heat, so it may be more important to me. Lake Nantahala is substantially cooler than Gatlinburg since it is a much higher elevation. I have gone there in mid to late July.

claire_bluesky Feb 1st, 2006 06:07 AM

If August is your best time, you ought to go then. June and August aren't that different. It's not like parks where you can lose access to areas because of weather, like Yosemite in the Spring. Since we live here, we go two or three times a year for several days and sometimes for a day. We usually take our kids to Gatlinburg and Dollywood as part of our trips. Since you're going to hike, you'll be mostly in the woods which is pleasant. Plus you can go to places with higher elevations. We can go anytime so we are more picky. We are really sick of the heat by August, plus school starts mid-August, so that affects my August opinion. Really, June and August aren't that different, especially compared to other parks.

asdaven Feb 1st, 2006 11:07 AM

Do you think picture taking in August would be fine? Because I like to take a lot of pictures to the parks I go to. Are the waterfalls flowing good or are they just a trickle in august? Was 2005 a wet year or dry one? Gatlinburg is 8 1/2 hours from my house, so it is a much longer haul than you have to drive. Is it that much more hotter and humid in august? Is the place like a sauna in august? I don't like it when it is that humid. Is it gloomy in august or is it sunney? In the higher elevations, can you get above the haze and see some blue sky? Can you usally see some stuff from the overlooks or can you not see a thing? Do you think it is definetly worth going in august or should a wait until I can get a year when I can go in June? I know the smokies are definetly something to see no matter where you are coming from.

asdaven Feb 1st, 2006 11:22 AM

Also, one more thing, is finding a rental cabin with air conditioning going to be a problem? I was just wondering because some of the rental cabins on the NC side don't have air-conditioning, but are at higher elevations and are in forest. One place was on Fontana Lake near Bryson City. I think it was called Lakeview at Fontana which allows pets which I am bringing with me and it didin't have air-conditioning and was at 2,000 ft. But, they claim the beezes off the lake keep things very cool. I want a place with AC because even though I will not be in the cabin during the day, my dogs will. So, I need to find a place with AC. Heat dosen't really bother me and I will probably either be in air-condtioning or in the higher elevations hiking. So, I don't think the heat is going to be an issue as long as most of the cabin rentals in and around gatlinburg have A/C. Kind of a stupid question, but some cabins I have stayed at in other places, all they have is baseboard heat for winter, no A/C.

claire_bluesky Feb 1st, 2006 02:15 PM

I've never seen a rental cabin in the area without a/c. It sounds like you don't mind a little warm weather so you shouldn't have a problem. Of course if it's hot where you are, you can drive to higher ground, but I don't think it'll be a problem in the woods. We stayed in Fontana about six years ago. As I recall, there's a nice marina, it's fun to tour the dam, a number of trails pass over the dam, and the lake is lovely.

claire_bluesky Feb 1st, 2006 02:37 PM

I should have re-read your post before replying so l'll go again. It's definitely sunny in August. Second, regarding pics, there will be some haze but that's why it's called the Smokies. It's not a sauna, so if you get a cabin with a/c and spend your time in the forests, the humidity shouldn't be a problem. I also got the idea after I read your post the 2nd time, you're planning to stay in or near Gatlinburg, so there are a million cabins available with every amenity. Lastly, the waterfalls should have a substantial flow in all seasons.

irishswampyankee Feb 1st, 2006 04:10 PM

Gatlinburg/Pigeon Forge area is beyond tacky but the mts are beautiful. I live in New England so am partial to NH and ME. If you choose GSNP, just be prepared for the tackiness of the towns.

claire_bluesky Feb 1st, 2006 07:15 PM

irishwampyankee, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. My children love the sight of Dollywood and Gatlinburg. My husband and I love the mountains. The proximity to us makes it a perfect destination for a family holiday visit, especially in the Fall. You can avoid the towns entirely if you choose. Perhaps the town of Gatlinbug is "ticky-tacky," but I have heard similar stereotypes of New Hampshire, but since I've not been there I'll not pre-judge. Besides, sometimes proximity is a factor, and we don't all live close to parks like Yosemite, do we? I suppose it's all relative.

asdaven Feb 2nd, 2006 11:08 AM

The fontana place I was talking about was on the other end of the lake opposite the dam near Bryson City,NC. It is called Lakeview at Fontana. I saw it written up in a magazine, that's why I checked it out. It is kind of high up in elevation and it is right on the like, but does not have air-conditioning. I could live without the a/c since it is on the lake, but I wouldn't want to leave my dogs without a/c. Is the fontana dam worth seeing? Is it real far from Gatlinburg? There seems to be plenty cabins that allow dogs around gatlinburg. So, that shouldn't be a problem. As far as the weather, I guess spring has the dark and gloomy feel. As it rains a lot in spring. Is the sun real strong? Will photos show up dark? I have decided to stay in gatlinburg because of the restaurants, lots to choose from. But, most of the time I will be in the park. Have you done any of the chairlifts out of gatlinburg? There are two. Which one is better? Also, is it steamy like or just humid? So, the waterfalls will be a lot more than just a trickle? Also, do you know of any of the lesser visited places of the park? Also, the farther up into the mountains you go, is the air cleaner?

claire_bluesky Feb 2nd, 2006 04:01 PM

Hi. I'll get back when I have a little more time, but yes, there is a scenic chairlift and a tram that takes you to an alpine slide. The kids love the slide. I do too, and sometimes it can be a little scary. Ha! I'll get back to you later about the other stuff.

BetsyinKY Feb 2nd, 2006 04:05 PM

The weather seems to be a huge issue for you, regarding this trip and we all know that there is no guaranteeing anything when it comes to the weather....it could be gorgeous the week you travel or it could rain everyday, whether you are in the Smokies or the White Mountains. The typical pattern in the Smokies would be for dry weather, though. On average (from the GSMNP website) Gatlinburg see 5 days of precipitation in August. The average high/low for Gatlinburg is 87/60. However, the average high/low for Clingman's Dome is 64/52, so you can see how the elevation affects the temperature.

In the Gatlinburg area, things may be a bit steamy, particularly in the afternoons, but if you plan to be in the higher elevations during the warmer part of the day or plan activities that will keep you indoors during those hours, then I don't think you will have to worry much. Some years are hotter/cooler than others. I live close enough to TN to share Knoxville weather. In August of 2004, we only had one day above 90. In August of 2005, we had about 20 days above 90. There is just no way to completely predict. However, I doubt that the heat will make your stay miserable, since you are planning to spend most of your time in the mountains.

You also seem very worried about the haze. The mountains are called the Smokies for a reason. That haze is present most of the time. Pollution does make it worse. If you are going later in August, though, the crowds will have thinned out somewhat, since most of the schools in this area start back in early August. This means less traffic and less pollution.

My advice is to just pick a destination, plan your activities and then go for it. Don't let worries about the weather stand in your way. Some of my prettiest photos have been taken in the rain or have fog in them. One of the coolest shots I have from the Smokies was from a day in late June. It was in the 80's down in Gatlinburg, but was in the 50's on Clingman's Dome. We hiked out to Andrew's Bald to see the flame azaleas. When we got to the bald, it was very foggy. I have the neatest pictures of the flowers with wisps of fog floating around them.

Just enjoy your trip, whichever set of mountains you decide on!

asdaven Feb 2nd, 2006 04:27 PM

I plan on going on the second week of august. Will schools be back in then? Schools are not back in maryland here till the last week of august. And as far of the weather, I guess if it does rain it is in the form of afternoon thunderstorms? Do you think there is a good chance I will see lots of wildflowers up at clingmans dome there, since it is cool? Also, is taking I-40 east to rte 321 to gatlinburg from I81 better than taking I-40 west from I-81 and going through sevierville and pigeon forge? I think I have pretty much decided on going to the smokies. Isn't it also more rainey up in New England since everything is closer to the coast. Same effect as the northwest pacific coast. the average is 64 up at clingmans, that is great! And 60's at night in gatlinburg is good also. Also, what do you reccomend about seeing cades cove? Should I rent and ride bicycles around the loop or drive around it? Also, do you know where you can see the elk?

jancien Feb 2nd, 2006 04:41 PM

I think that you should go to the White Mountains. Ive been to both, and in my opinion, the White Mts.are so much grander. The place is like no other. The Kangamangus Hyway is unreal, with lots of beautiful places to walk and admire the views.

Cher Feb 2nd, 2006 05:26 PM

asdaven: My advice --- You are obsessing about this trip way too much! You've gotten some great input here. You would have a great time visiting any of those destinations. It sounds like the trip to the Smokies will work out best for you now. (Visit the other places the next time you have a chance.)

Just go and enjoy yourself ... plan a bit, and then leave yourself open for some spontaneity when you get there. See what you feel like then. It's a beautiful area no matter what the weather will be like. I think that some of the days that were foggy were beautiful in a different type of way than a sunny day.

claire_bluesky Feb 3rd, 2006 09:07 AM

Hey, I agree. You worry too much. I published some pics of the Smokies for you, but sorry I haven't had my digital camera all that long. The pics are mostly from my Topton, NC trip which is about an 1 1/2 from Gatlinburg. The Topton pics are July. There are just a few from Gatlinburg since I didn't want to post my family's pics. The address is: http://homepage.mac.com/lebuffe/Smokies/ and the password is claire.

asdaven Feb 3rd, 2006 11:51 AM

Are some of the gatlinburg pics in summer? Of the chairlift? Okay I am obsessing. Enough about the weather. Have five questions: 1. Which chairlift is better (there are two, Ober Gatlinburg (I think the one with the alpine slide is Ober Gatlinburg) and Gatlinburg Skylift) 2. Which should I do about visiting Cades Cove (bicycle or drive)?
3. Where can you see the elk?
4. What are some good hikes in the park?
5. Is the fontana dam worth visiting and how far is it from Gatlinburg?

Claire_Bluesky- Those pictures are nice,but dark. That probably just means they are underexposed, since it looks like a sunny day. IF you learn how to slow down the shutter speed, you will get lighter pictures. And yes, there are shutter speeds on digital cameras and you can adjust it if you have a nice digital camera. But, you don't won't the shutter speed too slow because you can't keep it steady enough just holding the camera at real low shutterspeeds! For real low shutterspeeds you need a tripod. The difference between a film camera and a digital camera is that a film camera uses film to capture you pictures, while a digital camera uses a "digital eye" to capture pictures. So, shutter speed, ISO, and F-stop still apply with a digital camera. You can set all of these to if your camera is good. Some of the cheaper cameras don't have a way of changing any of that and just has "auto" mode which is on all digital cameras. But, if you know how to manualy set stuff, you can get much better pictures than auto. some cameras also have the feature of manually setting the shutter speed and the camera picks the F-stop for you and vice-versa. Sorry, I went off on my photography thing, I have gotten used to using manual adjustments. there is a lot more going with a camera than just pressing a button. I don't if you understand everything I just said, but I am just giving you some tips. Nice pictures though. Very green.
Thanks so much for all your help-

BetsyinKY Feb 3rd, 2006 02:05 PM

I believe that the Cades Cove Loop is closed to automobile traffic until 10am on Saturdays and Wednesdays in the summers. If you can go on one of those mornings, then my advise is to bike the loop. We did it a couple of years ago and it was fabulous! Not too many hills, although we did get off and push a time or two. (I blame this on the crappy bikes we rented at the Cades Cove campground. If you can bring your own bike, I would.) You can see so much more wildlife this way, and in the early morning there are lots of animals out feeding. We saw more deer than we could count, quite a few turkeys, and the most exciting moment was when we came down a short hill and there in the road stood two black bear cubs! We slammed on the bike brakes, which caused our tires to squeal on the damp pavement and frightened the cubs into the woods. About 10 seconds later, mama bear lumbered across the road...we were about 25 yards away! It was only after she disappeared into the woods that I thought to be nervous! Anyway, bike the loop! It's great exercise and great scenery.


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