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-   -   Savanah Sojourn (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/savanah-sojourn-998570/)

Ozarksbill Dec 4th, 2013 06:24 AM

My embarrassment. The famous General's name is spelled Oglethorpe...not what I just posted. By the way, as part of our program we did have an interview with General Oglethorpe himself. He explained about the founding of Savannah. And he has all sorts of props such as swords, maps, chests, etc.
www.flickr.com/photos/bonton/2092072490/
http://www.connectsavannah.com/savan...nt?oid=2158900

Before continuing let me hasten to say...we did not spend much time along the river front nor ride the ferry nor explore much beyond the Historic District nor visit museums nor experience night life. But I will continue soon with a report on food and more impressions.

Daniel_Williams Dec 4th, 2013 09:06 AM

I was sorry that when I was in Savannah, I missed Lady Chablis performing at Club One by a few days.

http://clubone-online.com/

OO Dec 4th, 2013 09:14 AM

Yup. Lady Chablis is very real. She performs upstairs in Club One (or she did, don't know about now). It's across Bay St and back some from the River...heading toward City Market. Here's a picture of her. http://ww2.thesouthmag.com/media/sce...at-club-one-2/.

We did see her once, a going away gift when DH was being transferred. It was something you might do ...once..... ;). I hope she thanks John Berendt daily for her career!!

Most of the characters were real...Sweet Emma, Mandy, of course Danny and Jim, Jim Williams neighbor...forgot his name. Not sure about Driggers. Sonny Seiler, Williams attorney, played the judge in the movie. They really do own and raise the Uga's.

It's incredible how much of the historic district has been preserved now. It could so easily have gone the other way, prior to the preservation group being established to save the Davenport House, really the beginning of the re-birth.

Although there is a lot of history in the warehouses of the waterfront, the beauty of Savannah is back from the water, where you focused your visit. I've got to say too, in the 4 years we lived there, I never rode that paddle wheeler either. Good job! :)

tenthumbs Dec 5th, 2013 01:29 PM

Great trip report! I'll be there a few days before Christmas, and this makes me look forward toit even more!

dwooddon Dec 5th, 2013 06:10 PM

I'm planning to visit in May so I'm reading your report eagerly.

Ozarksbill Dec 6th, 2013 06:13 AM

Nightlife in Savannah? Sure enough...just browse for cafes, nightclubs, bars, etc. Friends enjoyed a musical review at the Savannah Theatre. We did relax with entertainment at Six Pence Club as well as Vics on the River. Lots more night life on the River. Check it out as a virtual tourist.
http://www.10best.com/destinations/g...nnah/nightlife

And Lady Chablis? The same as in Midnight? She surely has profited from that Midnight write up. www.theladychablis.com

But just strolling around the various squares in the evening was enough after a long day. There is magic in the cool of the evening. Yes, we saw where Forest Gump sat on a bench. (Not the real movie bench however).

As for you looking ahead to a visit, you may want to take a tour, such as oldsavannahtours.com or trolleytours.com.
And here's a possibility: Captain Mike's Dolphin Tours on Tybee Island. 800 242-0166

This is going beyond what we ourselves had time for. Also do consider the cemeteries guidebooks tell us. We walked through Colonial Park Cemetery several times.
www.savannah.gov/cityweb/cemeteriesweb.nsf


travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-191501915-savannah_vacation-i

Just finished "Behind the Moss Curtain" with lots about a 1945 gruesome murder and trial of a Jesse McKethan. This did not appeal to me but loved the story of Shoeless Joe Jackson with more on that later.

(to be continued)

Daniel_Williams Dec 6th, 2013 06:40 AM

"But just strolling around the various squares in the evening was enough after a long day. There is magic in the cool of the evening."

Two beautifully-written sentences and I felt entirely the same way.

Ozarksbill Dec 9th, 2013 09:08 AM

Temp now 65 degrees in Savannah with high to be 74 today. Heck, that's what it was when we visited in October while here in New England and maybe where you are its snowy and cold.

Just a short note regarding something we noticed. Everywhere we saw young people who were students at Savannah College of Arts and Design. Also we would often pass by the Administration Center at 342 Bull St. and Anderson Hall on Anderson St.

So we have become aware that this college is an important factor in the city with various buildings and thousands of full time students. There are majors in arts and design and fashions and media and performance arts and more.

Just thought I'd mention.
www.scad.edu

flpab Dec 9th, 2013 09:22 AM

Moon river and Winter Wonderland are my two fav Johnny Mercer songs. We always did Savannah for St Paddy's Day until a year ago when the city just got mean and greedy. I went to a baseball game this year and saw the Tigers and Nationals. Homewood Suites tried a fast one in charging me 400.00 a day for my room. I had the original booking reservation and that is what saved me except I had to fight all night on the phone and with them over it. they want three nigh minimum as it is and I had two rooms at 114.00 a night for each room. Events and hotels...They now have you buy an armband each day no matter if you are 60. Every year they change the rules.
I love Bonaventure cemetery.

starrs Dec 9th, 2013 12:32 PM

The Lady Chablis performs once a month at Club One. The Book did so much more than just describe the events of one murder. It opened the curtain on the characters of Savannah. And SCAD has definitely transformed the historic district.

My first visit was as a Girl Scout and have been traveling there for business since the 80s. Years ago, the only real place for conferences and exhibits were at OO's former hotel/home. We were in that glassed in room on the river several times a year and the year the Book hit, the characters from the book were hired to make special appearances. Imagine the piano music as folks wandered the aisles in the exhibit hall. :-)

Then the Marriott was built and then the new convention center across the river. But back in the 80s, one stayed at the Hyatt or the Mulberry and MAYBE the President's Quarters - or one drove in from outside the historic district. Walking around the area, anywhere other than River Street and a few blocks of Bay Street? Not advised.

I really think the historic district was revitalized due to The Book. The old ladies saved the old buildings after Ellis Square became a parking garage. Paula Deen's popularity made the City Market area a destination. Mom (a fabulous southern cook) raved after visiting. It's been amazing to watch the transformation over the years, but the true transformation has been SCAD - not only the over 50 buildings they have renovated and are using as classrooms - but the students themselves, living and walking around in the HD. It's such a great place to be. Going back next week!

Daniel_Williams Dec 9th, 2013 06:41 PM

Interesting to read all your thoughts about the SCAD; I too felt there was a positive youthful energy walking around Savannah (to which SCAD students must contribute). Hope you have a great visit, Starrs!

Ozarksbill Dec 11th, 2013 09:10 AM

Glad to read feedback. Some of you have visited and explored Savannah more than have we. We learned about the rescue of the Historic District launched by the concerned women. I must say I don't know of another city with more ambiance due to the squares with live oaks and moss.

Next up: covering the highlight in our visit, namely Darin Sehnert's cooking school. He lists these as typical low country foods:
GREENS whether collard, turnip, beet or mustard. Once among meager rations in slave quarters with meat such as pork bones added.
GRITS meaning coarsely ground meal from any grain. Hominy grits is from corn and is also an African dish. Best to stir grits into cold liquid and heat gently.
OKRA which is considered a soup ingredient, popular in Creole country.
PEANUTS coming from Portuguese in South America, grown in Carolina and becoming popular after Civil War.
WATERMELON is ancient in origin in Egypt, Africa, liked for sweet juicy flesh in hot summer.
YAMS which is not the orange casserole (that being sweet potatoes), coming over on slave ships.

Ozarksbill Dec 18th, 2013 01:17 PM

A highlight of our Savannah sojourn was a morning in a cooking school preparing our lunch of black-eyed peas salad, cheddar & chive biscuits, shrimp in red eye gravy, rich & creamy grits, fried green tomatoes, pecan praline angel food cake. No we did not go to Paula Deans but to the 700 Kitchen Cooking School with chef Darin Sehnert. He was very exacting yet mixed in spoonfuls of humor.

Here are some links:
http://www.city-data.com/articles/Th...-Savannah.html

ww2.thesouthmag.com/dining/2010/a-top-chef-with-teaching-skills/

southsgreatest.com/2013/07/darin-sehnert/

www.chefdarin.com/about-2/chef-darin-sehnert/
www.chefdarin.com/recipes
www.chefdarin.com/cooking-classes
www.chefdarin.com/visit-savannah (has nice city video tour)

Don't know how many Savannah visitors consider a cooking school but it is an adventure and also intro into low country eating.

Ozarksbill Dec 22nd, 2013 10:21 AM

From the above menu at the Sehnert Cooking School it's not likely our household will see any repeats. But maybe this one for rich and creamy grits.
Yield 6-8 serving
3 cups chicken stock
3 cups milk
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups quick cooking or stone ground grits
4 tblsp butter
1/2 cup shredded parmesan cheese
1/4 cup heavy cream

Place chicken stock and milk in large saucepan. Season mixture with kosher salt and black pepper. Add grits to liquid and let sit for about 5 min. to begin hydration. Turn heat to moderately high and bring to summer. Once liquid simmers, reduce heat to very low and continue to cook, whisking occasionally for about 40-60 min. or until liquid is nicely absorbed. If too thick just always add more stock or milk. Stir in butter, Parmesan cheese, heavy cream Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve warm.

Ozarksbill Dec 27th, 2013 04:44 PM

There are some famous people who've had a Savannah connection. Lyricist/singer Johnny Mercer of course, born and bured there. Flannery O'Connor's childhood home. First Republican party candidate John Fremont (Lincoln was the second).
Connie Haines, singer in Dorsey band. Charles Coburn, that actor with the monocle. Oh yes, Clarence Thomas, Supreme Court justice. Prize fighter Sugar Ray Robinson.

And Shoeless Joe Jackson. Not born in Savannah but later living in the city for twenty years. Moved his mother and sister there and ran a pool room and dry cleaners there. Described in "Behind the Moss Curtain" Jackson is described by author Sliver as "the only cracker in the barrel" of Connie Mack's 1909 Philadelphia Athletics, the other players being middle class Northeasterners. His background was the mill and cotton fields. As he starred with the Cleveland team he was a hitting rival to Ty Cobb. But as author Murray Silver goes on Shoeless played with the Chicago White Sox and was among those embroiled in the 1919 World Series scandal. Meanwhile he had his businesses in Savannah. Interesting story if you want to read it.

Ozarksbill Dec 30th, 2013 07:07 AM

Item in Boston Globe 12/28 refers to various water projects getting attention and possible funding from Congress. Included is "deepening Georgia's rapidly growing Port of Savannah." Considered one of the nation's fasted growing ports.

Ozarksbill Jan 17th, 2014 08:20 AM

Any report on Savannah must include Johnny Mercer. He was born in Savannah and is buried there. Son of a local banker who foreclosed in the Depression, he became rich and famous as lyricist and singer and vowed to pay back everyone who lost money with the bank's demise. And he did.

Part of our Road Scholar program was about Johnny Mercer including performances. Don't sit on the front row...I should have known. So I was the one pulled up by entertainer Kim Polote as brief dance partner. A native of Savannah she performed with Harry Connick Jr. and elsewhere.

I had forgotten there were so many Mercer songs, including many old time favorites (back to high school-college days in the '50s). Dream...that was our tune (my steady girlfriend). The list includes romance like That Old Black Music, Laura, The Days of Wine and Roses, I Remember You, and Moon River made popular by Andy Williams (ever been to Branson?)

Also fun songs: Accentuate the Positive, On the Atchison, Topeka and the Santa Fe, Strip Polka, Jeepers Creepers, Glow Worm, Goody Goody. But other wonderful tunes: Autumn Leaves, Satin Doll, Tangerine, Song of India, Blues in the Night, And the Angels Sing.

Probably most of you are too young to be familiar with these songs. I do remember hearing Johnny singing but he was mostly a lyricist combining with many different composers (Arlen, Kern, Carmichael, Mancini). And for a few he did both words and music.

Mercer did live by Black River when growing up. And it does take on a certain mirror-like reflection in the moonlight.
But of course it needed a new lyrical name: Moon River.

Ozarksbill Jan 29th, 2014 08:11 AM

Wow, what a surprise...temps to dip to 27 degrees tonight. But will recover to 70 in a few days. Atlanta and other areas hard hit...so Boston weather isn't any worse.

Ozarksbill Feb 9th, 2014 12:40 PM

Tragic fire in port of Savannah...5600 tons of rubber burning giving off a huge smoke. I am realizing this is a busy shipping port as well as historic site.

starrs Feb 9th, 2014 05:36 PM

OzarksBill, you really should order this CD -
http://www.amazon.com/Come-Rain-Or-S...+or+come+shine

She was a wonderful singer and it's a wonderful album. All Johnny Mercer songs. It's my #1 favorite CD, especially for background music when guests are over.


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