SAP's Maui TR
 

Boy, did we love Maui! (Sorry, Kal and gyppilou, but maybe even more than Awesome Kauai.)

My vacation buddies included my husband (hereinafter "PAP"); my 14-year-old daughter (MS) and our 6-year-old son (JP) for seven short, sweet days.

Day 1 - Aloha:
The Fairmont Kea Lani is beautiful - a classic, elegant, Mediterranean style open to the tropical air. It works very well with the Hawaiian landscaping and art. Other touches in the decor are reminiscent of Bombay or Morocco, especially the lounge overlooking the garden and ocean. My overall first impression of the hotel, reinforced during the week, was of a crisp, white linen dress pinned with an orchid. This effect was echoed in the excellent service.

When we arrived, we received a fresh lei greeting (but no juice, probably because of the late hour). JP got a cute candy lei, which disappeared into his mouth w/in 2 days. Since we arrived so late (around 10 p.m.), no upgrades from our standard room were available. As it turns out, we preferred our secluded side view of the trees anyway. There was more privacy on the lanai where I spent every morning surrounded by the sounds of birds, drinking coffee, writing trip notes and planning our day. There was even a peripheral view of the ocean if you craned your neck a bit.

The suite, the marble bath and the lanai were all impressively large. The bath included 2 pedestal sinks, a tub and separate open shower (w/instantly hot water & great pressure), and another small room with a door for the toilet. The sofa pulled out to a bed for the kids and the mini-kitchen had a sink, small fridge and microwave. Better yet, the lanai was large enough for a patio table with four chairs and a lounge chair with side table.

My only real gripe was a somewhat musty smell we noticed right away (from the fridge, I think), but either it dissipated during our stay or we got used to it. There was also a stain on the carpet near the sofa -- no big deal. I kept thinking, "Well, if this is the cheapest room in the place left at the end of the day, it's not too shabby after all."

The turn down service every night had a nice little touch. In addition to the orchid they would leave on each pillow, there was a card with a different Hawaiian story or custom. JP really started looking forward to these and we brought our "collection" home to put in the scrapbook.

Day 2 - Wonderful Wailea:

What a memorable day! It started out pretty slow, getting into that laid-back Hawaiian mode. Breakfast was loco moco at Da Kitchen, which filled us up for the entire day. Afterwards, we bought t-shirts in tourist shops and groceries at the Safeway in Pi'ilani Village. By stocking up our mini-fridge w/yogurt, fruit & juice, we were able to keep costs down a little w/breakfast on the lanai most mornings.

In the early p.m., we drove south as far as the Ahihi-Kinau Reserve. The desolate black-rock landscape created by this most recent Maui lava flow is really cool and worth some pics. We didn't drive any further 'cause everyone wanted to get to a beach & the only way down involved a hike across lava.

We drove back up to Big Beach, a large & popular place which just didn't feel like our style. So, then we walked down the road to Secret Beach, where a wedding was taking place. I liked the little cove much more and it was amusing to see the bride & her maids try to walk in the sand w/gowns and high heels.

Back at the hotel, we checked out Kea Lani's terraced pools, lawns & Polo Beach, then walked the Wailea beachside path to the Four Seasons. It seemed nice, but we liked the Kea Lani just a bit better. We relaxed on the lounge chairs until dinner while the kids played in the surf. They grew to like this beach so much that none else could compare for the rest of the trip. I thought this was pretty funny 'cause Polo is not exactly known as the best Maui beach. For them though, the small crescent was a perfect combo of gentle slope, soft white sand and enough good waves for bodysurfing.

Dinner at Nick's Fishmarket was fabulous. When money-conscious PAP thinks $200-plus is worth it, you better believe it's good. We had an outside table but there wasn't an insect or feathered beggar in sight. Both service & food were top-notch. I'd never before had a waiter replace my water glass simply because the ice was starting to melt.

The sunset was just lovely and there was a torch-lighting ceremony featuring a kane in traditional dress w/conch shell. We enjoyed watching a wine decanting ritual, too, but it was the strawberry flambee' our neighbors ordered that really impressed the kids. The waiter poured a flaming liquid (I assume it was rum) in a long, molten stream back and forth from one wine glass to another before pouring it onto the strawberries. (Can you imagine the mistakes they make in training?) To put out the flame, the people had to pick up the fruit with a fondue fork and blow on it or dip it in a sauce. You wouldn't want to drop that in your lap! For the rest of the trip, MS wanted to go back to Nick's just to order that dessert.

After dinner, we went down to the beach for stargazing. The staff had set up lounge chairs in pairs all around the sand, but we had the place to ourselves. The tide was up, the sky was clear (for the only time all week) and the moon was almost full.

Phil and I then had a round of drinks in the "Bombay" lounge to cap off the night after the kids went up to the room. I really liked the open view of the gardens and koi pond. The warm, silky night air is one of my favorite things about Hawaii. In CA, it's usually much colder after dark.

Thank you, sap! You really put me back there!:-)

What joy, what rapture to return home from a lousy day at work, only to find myself in the first sentence of your wonderful trip report. I am giddy. But you must understand. I have always thought Maui was just as bad as Kauai. I see no purpose of ever leaving the vicinity of your Kaanappali Hotel, unless you're spending the day in Lahaina....otherwise boooring!!! Did no one tell the bride, stelleto's in the sand is worse than wearing white after laborday!!! Looking forward to the rest. So far, you write lovely and make me homesick!!!

Thanks for the feedback bonniebroad & gyppilou. Glad to hear we all despise the same places.

Day 3: Central Maui & Then Some

After a quick yogurt/fruit breakfast on the lanai, we went snorkeling at Ulua Beach. We were glad to get there early 'cause it was packed by 9 a.m. Apparently,it's a VERY popular snorkeling & dive spot. The water was a tad cloudy, but we saw a fairly nice variety of fish around the rocks to the right: the ubiquitous butterflyfish, filefish, goatfish w/their goofy whiskers, needlefins (which freak me out a little when you spot them at eye-level), triggerfish (the proverbial humuhumus) and a big, ugly, orange guy w/spots that I followed all the way back to shore. I think he was either a boxfish or toby and was becoming so friendly, I was about to name him.

Noonish, we drove up to 'Iao Valley -- so gorgeously lush but there were tourists galore. We did the baby walk up to the Needle lookout where a local was selling palm frond baskets. There were several kids diving off the rocks & bridge into a rather shallow-looking pool. PAP got some great action shots of this, along with the sign that says "No Jumping Off the Bridge." Of course, then the tourists wouldn't have their show of local color and the kids wouldn't have fun making the crowd gasp.

Lunch was at a little Mex place, Las Pinatas, tucked into a corner of a shopping center on Dairy Rd. in Kahului. We were looking for something else when we found it. That's what I love about trips to new places. The chicken burrito was good & their pineapple salsa was just like Maui Tacos'.

We drove to Pa'ia on a mission to find the Hana Bay Juice Co., which sells the "On the Road Again" CD tour guide of Hana Hwy as recommended by our very own gone2maui. Pa'ia is a North Shore hippie/surfer village like a tiny version of Santa Cruz. We couldn't find the shop, so we drove up to Ho'okipa Beach to watch the windsurfers. The kids climbed down to explore the lava rock tidepools while PAP fooled around with the camera. It was REALLY windy on the lookout bluff.

We had so much xtra time that we bumped up the next day's plans & drove down to Tedeschi Winery. O-o-oh, just loved those knockout views all the way down south. I didn't realize that the island's west coast was visible from Upcountry. In fact, the whole middle of the island was much more pleasantly pretty than I expected. Even the cows looked fat & happy. Tedeschi's pineapple wine was surprisingly good. We bought a bottle of the drier vintage and some very tasty guava & mango jellies (which I've been sampling every morning since my return.)

After driving back north by way of Makawao/Baldwin to get a different perspective, we walked up and down the main (only) street of Pai'a looking for the elusive Hana Bay Juice until a friendly local finally pointed us in the right direction. Naturally, it was closed. I could see the blankety-blank CD right there on the counter. FYI future visitors, it's at the intersection of Baldwin and Hana Hwy (36) right next to the Wine Corner and right in front of our eyes the whole time. A sign with big letters says "Box Lunches" and, in very small letters underneath, it says "Hana Bay Juice Co." Sheesh, you'd think it'd be the other way around. There was no indication of what their hours might be (this is Hawaii, after all), but I was happy to see that they sold smoothies and box lunches since the Hana picnic basket Cafe Ciao was selling back at the hotel cost about $50 per person for a lousy sandwich & chips.

Dinner was at the infamous Mama's Fish House. Yes, they have a cool location and an over-the-top island theme. No, we will not be patronizing them again. After Nick's, it was actually a bit of a letdown. Mama's just seemed more touristy, almost cheesy. I suppose I would have been more charmed by the decor if we'd had a better experience overall. Even w/reservations, though, we had to cool our heels for at leats 15-20 minutes in a busy passageway before we got a table. We couldn't wait in the bar 'cause it was packed w/disgruntled others waiting for tables. Even though several staff members repeatedly walked by, not one of them offered us a drink.

When we finally got a table, it didn't have a view although I had requested one over a month before - maybe it's first come/first served.

The food itself (except the drinks) was admittedly very good. I really liked my macadamia encrusted mahi-mahi. The chef's "complimentary" demitasse cup of banana curry bisque was tasty and unusual. The desserts were lovely, especially the coconut cheesecake. Unfortunately, the real thorn (euphemistically speaking) was our condescending waiter. He had a definite smirk about him. He also neglected to tell us several things about the menu and specials that we oerheard another very pleasant waiter tell our neighbors at the next table. In fact, he didn't even tell us that they had a keiki menu until after we'd ordered pupus for the kids. This, combined with the fact that the bill was at least $30 higher than Nick's, kind of left a sour taste in our mouths.

I say, the best thing about Mama's is that Captain Aloha (from the tour guide CD) is one of their valets.

After dinner, we joined the other tourists taking pictures under the tiki torches on the beach. Overall, it was a good day and we certainly covered a lot of territory. In retrospect, I agree w/many other Fodorites that maybe Mama's would be a better idea for drinks & pupus than a full dinner. That way you get the ambiance w/out the crowds & sticker shock. (Just don't order the mai-tai.)

For anyone else who might be searching for the "On the Road Again" CD: they sell it at Long's Drugs. I know it doesn't help you now, sap, but, hopefully we will learn that you were able to get a copy in the next part of your trip report. Did you ask Jed, aka Captain Aloha, about it?

Great trip report so far sap! You're such a better writer than me, and I have the worse memory. I should have taken notes as you did!

Anxiously waiting for the rest...

You're right gone2maui, I had forgotten about Long's - but it all worked out for the best as you'll see. Unfortunately, even if I had seen Captain Aloha at Mama's, I wouldn't have recognized him 'cause we didn't have the CD yet.

Day 4 - Hanging Loose

We drove down to the Maui Prince for a champagne brunch at Prince Court. The food & service were both quite good for the price. The hotel seemed just a little dated, or maybe it was intentionally retro, hard to say. They had a very pretty courtyard garden & ponds (with a LOT of koi) which we walked through on our way down to the beach. Maluaka Beach has a gentle, rolling surf and thick, peachy, squishy soft sand that feels like stepping on sponge cake. The kids wanted to stay, but PAP and I didn't have our swimsuits and it was getting very hot & humid. It's on the top of our list for the next trip, though.

We continued south down Makena Alanui Rd. looking for beaches we couldn't find despite our many maps. The access roads are not well marked (probably for a reason). PAP & I don't make the best orienteering team, anyway, which has led to many a vacation argument. Fortunately on this trip, we were saved by a laid-back, s'all good attitude.

We eventually found Oneuli down a little dirt road, tucked up under the north side of Red Hill aka Earthquake Hill aka Pu'u Ola'i. Despite it's nickname, the sand isn't actually black. It reminded me of ground colored peppercorns w/red, white, orange & black grains. Blue says its crushed lava mixed w/pulverized coral. Oneuli would be especially nice in the a.m. before it gets hot. There was only one other family when we arrived and a couple of turtles playing in the surf. MS snorkeled w/them for a while, but it was nearly noon and waves were increasing as the wind came around the SW corner of the island. She did say it was better than Ulua.

The entire lazy Sunday afternoon was spent at the Kea Lani pools. MS and I had drinks (virgin lava flow for her) at Polo Grill's swim-up bar. We sat next to a fun couple from Florida who had half a heat on and hadn't slept in nearly 24 hours. They had just spent their first morning on the island trapped in a grueling bike ride tour down Haleakala & spent some time entertaining us w/their adventures. Apparently, the rules of the tour require that everyone has to stay behind the slowest person. This time, it was a girl who said she wanted to enjoy the views on the way down. My new Florida friend told me he finally lost his temper and yelled, "It's the same *%*#@ view the whole way down, honey. It just keeps getting closer!"

It was downright decadent being waited on by the attentive staff. There was an abundant supply of fresh towels and cold water. The drinks were very good, but not cheap of course. One drink on the menu with an intriguing combination of ingredients was $17. Let me know if you ever try that one. For an additional $7 (yes, you read that right), you could even liven up the fantasy by having any drink served in a real pineapple. Fortunately, my favorite drink already came in a faux coconut shell and I now have a little collection. They look like they'd make cool ashtrays, except for the fact that we don't smoke. M-m-m-m, tacky candleholders for my next luau, perhaps?

The perfect pampered touch, though, was the pineapple waiter. He patroled the pool area with a tray, distributing fruit slices like appetizers at a party. I liked it all the more 'cause it was free. (Although it occurs to me now he might have expected a tip. I'm terrible about knowing when to tip.)

Other freebies besides the yoga classes included a castle bouncer on the lawn (for the kids, I assume; although adults might be tempted after some time at the swim-up bar); water aerobics; hula & ukulele lessons; juggling; face painting and an orchid lei making class.

It all sounded kinda fun, but the only thing we participated in was the lei making. It was so idyllic to sit on the lawn under the shade trees, stringing together fragrant orchids and watching the sunlight playing on the waves. I was beginning to feel like something out of an old British novel (and I swear I'd only had one drink), but my brief little illusion was shattered when MS got into a sudden huff because she'd cut her lei too short.

The original plan had been to drive up to Haleakala for the sunset, but we were just too darned content to pile in the car. PAP went back to the room for a nap and the kids & I went down to Polo Beach. MS taught JP how to bodysurf and then we walked the beachside path past the Four Seasons to the Grand Wailea. Wow, are GW's grounds extensive & beautiful. It's now my favorite hotel next to the Kea Lani, and the effect is definitely more Hawaiian. Somehow, though, its size & grandeur make it less serene and elegant. If the Kea Lani is white linen, the grand dame GW is a flowing flowered mumu.

SAP - great report! Makes me want to board the next plane to paradise!

I agree sap. Nothing to see, do, eat etc on Kauai. :O)

Celine, don't sell yourself short...a wonderful report you gave.

Sap, you all did good. Infamous overtippers, I would never think of tipping the Kea Lani pineapple guy, or the 4S strawberry girl, or fudgecickle guy. I might tip them later in the day for simply being wonderful, but not for a piece of pineapple.

Of course, if they're serving the pineapple on the beach wearing bridesmaids stelletto's, well, of course you should tip them for their education. Someday they will become rocket scientists!!!!

One of the best trip reports I have ever read.

What a JOY to read your report! Thanks for all the great details. Almost feel like I was there... My daughter would have come undone over cutting the lei too sort as well. Yikes! Nine more days! I can't wait to sink my toes into peachy sand!

Thanks, guys. I'm sort of re-living everything myself a bit during the writing; seems like ages ago <big sigh>. Celine - your trip report was great w/lots of useful details. It's fun to learn from each other's experiences: s'all good, right?

Now, hopefully I won't tick anyone off w/the next part . .

Day 5 - West Maui Wonders & Woes

We rounded up the family early & drove around the west side up to Honolua Bay for snorkeling. The snorkeling was REALLY GOOD. Not only did we see the same types of fish as at Ulua, there were also angelfish, tangs, surgeonfish, moorish idols, some beautiful parrotfish and a barracuda that scared the heck out of me. He was probably harmless, but I swam away pretty quickly all the same. (Like he was going to chase me, right?) The water in the bay was colder than at the beaches & my fingers were numb after awhile. If I wanted to spend any significant length of time here, I think I'd bring a wetsuit.

The best part of Honolua Bay, though, was the short trek through the tropical forest to the water. It reminded the kids of the Amazon Trail computer game. There were coconut husks on the ground everywhere and rope vines strong enough to support a real Tarzan. I recently read another post by someone who said they had to take steep stairs down to the bay. If so, they must have taken another route.

I'm sorry to say that the rest of West Maui was a disappointment for us. I'd met some folks on the beach the previous day who absolutely raved about the area and so I was really looking forward to it. My thought now is that we just caught it on a bad day. For one thing, it rained off & on all morning (although that didn't decrease Hana's charm for me later in the week). We also didn't visit the grounds/oceanfronts of any hotels, which may have given me an entirely different perspective. Many of the places I did see on our mini tours through Kapalua, Napili & Ka'anapali seemed crowded together and kind of tired or faded, as if the color was rubbing off the bloom of their heyday.

The views of the emerald mountains were lovely, especially from Lahaina. In many of the towns, though, the ocean was completely blocked off by wide swathes of gritty little condos and motels.

Initially, we had a hard time locating the access roads to Kapalua and Napili, which we had planned to visit before breakfast. We found the Gazebo first instead and waited in line by the condo pool for about 45 minutes. It certainly was not the worst place to stand in line. The views of Molokai, which you can't even see from Wailea, were a nice change of scenery. There were even spinner dolphins frolicking at some distant spot between the islands (the only dolphins I saw all week).

The Gazebo mostly lived up to the hype. My breakfast, the combo macnut/banana/pineapple pancakes, was the best. (After a couple of days, my family started wondering why I always knew what to order. It's because of all my tips from fellow Fodorites!) The kids ordered white chocolate chip pancakes - dessert for breakfast, oh boy. PAP stuck with plain old, boring buttermilk w/linguica on the side and, of course, was disappointed. That's like going to the French Laundry and ordering french fries & Coke.

The next few hours were an exercise in frustration. After finding an access road & nabbing a parking spot, we'd lug our stuff to one of the beaches. As soon as we'd get set up, it would start to rain. A lot. Three times we repeated this exact scenario. It was beginning to feel like Groundhog Day. I would sit there smiling and repeating "This is supposed to be such a nice swimming beach. It'll clear up in a minute," but no one was buying it. The kids said, "These beaches don't have enough tide to bodysurf." PAP said "Geez, it's too crowded here." I dug in my heels, though, because I just KNEW that West Maui had to be better than this. Everybody said so.

We gave up and went looking for shave ice. The Blue Book raves about Ashley's Yogurt and Ice Cream in Kahana Gateway, but the place was empty & sign gone. A lady in the next shop said the owner had left to open some restaurant in Kihei. (PAP made a crack that everyone would rather be in Kihei.) Thinking Whaler's Village might have something to offer, we drove down to Ka'anapali. Instead of shave ice, we opted for tropical drinks/smoothies at the Hula Grill. It's a very cute place, though crowded, and the drinks were great. MS is now addicted to virgin lava flows. We would have tried the food, but we were still stuffed w/Gazebo pancakes.

It had quit raining and JP decided he liked Ka'anapali Beach. It reminded me of Big Beach, but I wanted to try snorkeling at Black Rock. My dear PAP, however, was beginning to suffer from caffeine deprivation and the rigors of my persistent schedule and was in no mood to hang out. MS and I did get some good shopping in before the boys started going nuts and the only reason we managed that was because PAP found a coffee vendor. (I should learn to bring a thermos w/me wherever we go.) He did have a point, though, that his idea of a vacation isn't a mall.

Lahaina was just what I thought it would be and my mixed feelings were exactly as expected. It may have a happening nightlife, but I think it's kind of a sad place. The historical monuments, genuine cultural significance and awesome Banyan tree are the best parts. Then, like in so many places that have lost their nascent industry, the cheesy tourist shops and activity hawkers completely mar the original charm. I grew up in the Black Hills of SD, near Mt. Rushmore and Deadwood, where the overblown western theme is necessary to attract bread-and-butter visitors. Of course, whaling, six-shooters & gambling are probably best left in the past anyway, hmm? Now, we can glorify them from a respectable distance.

Maybe Lahaina sparkles more at night, with the harbor lights and music from the luaus. I wanted to find out, but that will have to wait.

At last we found shave ice in an ice cream store at the corner of Front & Dickenson (forgot the name). The prices ticked off poor PAP, who must have felt like he was bleeding $$$. We just ordered two for the kids & shared them. I told JP to get the POG w/coconut ice cream on the bottom. It was Lappert's and a most yummy pick-me-up. (I notice that it sounds like all we do on vacation is eat & drink!)

I wanted to spend more time on the historical tour, but the museums were closing and everyone else was itching to get back. I had made reservations at Pacific O, but we would have had to hang for almost 2 hrs. I did insist that we at least go look at the place, check out the menu & view (1/2 hoping PAP would change his mind). Their location on the waterfront is definitely a perfect sunset spot, but I settled for a deal to come back next trip. Anyone who goes there, please let me know your thoughts so I can be there vicariously in the meantime.

Basically, after Nick's & Mama's, PAP wanted to steer away from expensive seafood & cloth napkins. He said he wanted something simple & down-to-earth. We actually found the perfect fix. After a clean-up back at the hotel, we drove to the Bada Bing in Kihei. This little diner put PAP in a better mood instantly, especially after he found the perfect mafia-inspired black shirt for his teenage son back home. The prices andn food were both good - unpretentious Italian heavy on the garlic. The kids were happy that at least we were eating something they liked. The spinach-artichoke dip & garlic bread balls were sinfully good and went straight to my hips. I do admit the Sinatra theme was ever-so tacky and overdone, but it worked as a "family" place.

Oh my gosh, sap!! I was in the middle of reading your wonderful TR and everyone's reply when the phone rang! Boy, what a downer. I was really into your descriptions and almost believing I was there with you! Yours is a TR that I will copy and make notes about before we go in October. You have given great reviews of several of the places we wanted to be sure to see. Thank you so much!

Dear SAP,
do you write for a living? Your writing is so wonderful and descriptive..I think i am drooling!
Thank you so much...keep it coming!
Becca :)

Professional? I wish. I used to write a long time ago in another life, but I never got past my fear of dialogue -- didn't occur to me I could skip that by being a columnist. Then, I was a legal secretary for 10 years, which is remarkably like editing (but don't tell PAP I said that 'cause he's one of them). Now I survive children for a living: 4 teens and a 6-year-old. Suddenly I realize time is rolling along rather quickly & I still haven't figured out what I want to do when I grow up. Wait...I know! I'll be a professional traveler. Uh, the only problem would be funding. I gotta keep reading these Fodors tips to figure out my way around that.

I've got three mo' days to post, but I don't want to overwhelm (bore) everyone in one fell swoop.

Overwhelm us? Bore us? Are you kidding?!?

We're waiting with bated breath!!!

Carole

<i>Of course, whaling, six-shooters &amp; gambling are probably best left in the past anyway, hmm</i>

Well, whaling I agree... ;)

Great report, thanks.

Bored? No way! looking forward to more, Sap! What's in a virgin lava flow?

Wow! Great report! I was reading it over lunch and I had to extend my lunch hour. I just made the decision to go to Maui for our 25th and after reading your report I know I won't regret it!

This is bonniebroad's recipe from a post some time ago. Just leave out the rum, and it's virgin. Personally, I find lava flows too sweet, but everyone else seems to like 'em!

LAVA FLOW:

Lava Flow is quickly becoming the favorite Hawaiian drink.

Ingredients:

1 oz Light rum
1 oz Malibu rum
2 oz Strawberries
1 Banana, ripe but not overripe
2 oz Pineapple juice unsweetened
2 oz Coconut cream

Preparation: Blend strawberries and the two rums in a blender into a smooth paste. Pour the paste into a hurricane glass. Rinse the blender. Blend banana, coconut cream, and pineapple juice in blender until smooth. Pour this mixture into the glass with the rums SLOWLY. The strawberry/rum mix should creep up the sides of the glass to make a wonderful looking (and tasting) summertime cocktail!

As Mrs Kal likes to say on Kauai..
&quot;bore me bore me bore me bore me....&quot;
:-&quot;
sapper-only 2 ozs of rum? I sweat that in a minute! :O)

HScent-It's what ISN'T in a virgin LF that counts.

Day 6 - Heavenly Hana

I kicked everyone out of bed early again, ignoring the groans. I tend to be a little militant when I've got the sighteeing bug. PAP was joking about the Hana Highway to Hell and the kids looked concerned about what on earth I had in store for them. In the end, it was a long but wonderful day. Most importantly, the Dramamine worked for JP.

I had forgotten to call the Hana Bay Juice Company, but lo and behold they were open. I yelled this fact out a little too suddenly as we passed, though, which caused PAP to slam on the brakes in the middle of the intersection thinking we'd hit something. MS was so embarrassed that she just kept muttering, &quot;Oh my God, Oh my God&quot; over and over as she peered out the window to see if anyone was looking. Traveling w/your parents must be a real drag sometimes.

The ladies at HBJC set us up for the day w/smoothies for breakfast, box lunches for Hana and most importantly, that goofy &quot;On the Road Again&quot; CD tour by Captain Aloha and Uncle Boy Kanai. It really was a helpful addition to my printed materials and certainly made the trip more enjoyable for the kids.

After the tour was over at Lindbergh's Grave, we re-played the music track portion at JP's request three more times until we got back to the hotel. I enjoyed many of the songs, but I think I'll scream if I ever hear &quot;Reggae Rock in the Maui Style&quot; one more time. Unfortunately, this is now JP's favorite song. MS finds that particularly funny because one of the lyrics says, &quot;Reggae music, it drive people crazy. . .&quot;

I didn't think the Hana Highway was nearly as difficult as I imagined after all the dire warnings. Of course, as PAP points out, I was not the one driving. We missed pulling off the road in time during the first few waterfalls, but we still caught a lot of sites on my short list of possibilities. It had been pouring rain in Pa'ia and PAP would occasionally glance over at me like I was crazy, but there were long intervals between the cloudbursts. The mist actually contributed to Hana's lush beauty.

Memorable highlights of the trip include:

the views of Honomanu Bay;

the windswept Ke'anae Peninsula;

banana bread;

waterfalls - several right by the road;

the green, misty tunnel of Nahiku Road;

the overlook, artesian falls and pool at the end of Nahiku Rd.;

the multiple honor stands w/fruit, flowers and banana bread;

buying a fresh coconut from a stand where the charming lady vendor w/pigtails cut the husk off with a machete on a stump, gave it to us with a straw to drink the juice, and then chopped it in half so we could eat the jelly with a &quot;spoon&quot; made out of the husk (which made me feel like I was in a Michener novel);

a brief visit to Blue Pool and a very cold swim - please read and respect the signs those locals have put up to defend themselves from the onslaught;

a picnic lunch on a rather rough lava rock overlooking Black Sand Beach at Wai'anapanapa State Park;

and standing on the black, rocky shore (sand is a misnomer) when the next downpour came until we ran for cover in the nearby cave, which has its own pool;

The only disappointments of the day were because the intermittent downpours prevented us from hiking to the upstream waterfalls at Pua'a Ka'a State Park (I was worried about the slippery mud in the narrow parts); spending more time on the east coast beaches; and swimming at Oheo Gulch, which had been banned by the State Park because of the heavy falls. Also, we didn't spend any time in Hana itself, which I plan to do on a future trip. I would definitely spend the night to get the full flavor of the place. The Pipiwai Trail hike will also be on the top of my next list, along w/Venus Pool and Alele Falls.

Just after leaving Oheo Gulch, we got stuck behind a group of horses trotting closely together behind a cart. Their broad hindquarters were perfectly framed in the windshield and it struck me that they looked just like they were dancing to the music on the CD. It happened to be an island version of Willie Nelson's &quot;On the Road Again&quot; and, when I pointed this out to the kids, it sent them into fits of laughter. PAP took a picture of this &quot;view&quot; for our scrapbook. I'm sure it was one of those quirky had-to-be-there moments, but it's one we won't forget. That song won't ever be the same again, either.

The views of the southern coast and Haleakala were also incredible along cliff-hugging Hwy 31. The blind curves are nerve-racking, but very much worth the drive. At one point coming around a narrow corner, a local &quot;businessman&quot; leaned out of his old white Buick and waved a humongous doobie in PAP's face. The man was grinning from ear to ear and obviously having a great time teasing the haoles. At last, we rounded the SW corner back up to Teddeschi Winery, where we stopped for fudge.

After a tiring day, we made it back to the hotel in time to for the sunset at Polo Beach. It turned out to be another peak experience of the vacation as PAP photographed the kids playing in the surf, silhouetted against a mango sky.

Dinner was a quick trip to Maui Tacos just before they closed -- good, cheap and fresh.

Day 7 - Just Another Day in Paradise

Our last full day in Maui was basically a langorous repeat of Day 4's hang loose schedule.

JP was really in need of some kid-style fun and spent four hours at the Keiki Lani kids' club. He loved it so much, we wished we had enrolled him earlier. Among other things, they built sandcastles, did island crafts, played in the pools and watched a movie. He cried at 3 p.m. when the program ended 'cause he was &quot;never going to see (his) new friends again.&quot;

Meanwhile, the rest of us spent the day lounging at the pools. I had originally booked myself for a 2-1/2 hour spa treatment, but a nagging guilt began to creep in. For one thing, MS really wanted someone to hang out with since JP was occupado. I also had developed a small prejudice against the Hawaiian tourist industry's persistent efforts to lure me away from my money. After the first few self-indulgent forays into the Valley of Temptation, my practical German-Irish blood began to pump some sense into my brain.

Both PAP and MS were relieved that I had rejected the luxury of lomi lomi massage. Baking in the free sunshine with a compensatory drink in hand, I vowed to embark on a new line of research along the lines of Kal in Kauai: developing a plan for budget-conscious pampering in paradise that could be loosely entitled &quot;Decadence on a Dime.&quot;

Alas, my stoic thoughts didn't stick around longer than my last mai tai. PAP decided our final full night of vacation warranted a romantic view. I had originally made reservations at Sarento's over a month before, then nearly canceled them after I heard a couple of bad reviews. In the end, we decided to chance it, figuring the sunset view would be worth it. I am SO glad we did. The service was almost as good as Nick's, the food and location were even better, and it was a satisfying $30 less ($60 less than Mama's).

There was some unexpected entertainment that evening. An exceedingly gracious young man was inviting Sarento's guests onto the lawn for sunset portraits. Although dressed in a polo &amp; khakis, his pale page-boy hair, formal speech and extravagant manners were like a character from a long-gone century. When he bowed low and extended a hand, I could just envision a red carpet rolling out. It crossed my mind that he had been imported from the Excalibur in Las Vegas, but he was an excellent photographer.

Despite feeling like tacky tourists, we allowed our picture to be taken and were surprised out how very nice it turned out. The sunset also cooperated by being more gorgeous than usual. The backdrop of palm trees silhouetted against an orange-yellow sky looks positively fake. We happily forked out $20 for the 5x7 because it's the only one we have of all of us together during the whole trip.

Aye, foiled again by those clever Maui Marketers.

Ahhh, so many trips to Hawaii....so few spa lomi lomi's!

Seems I always plan to have the day at the spa with my husband, but once you get there and get local, you just don't NEED one....so what's the point.

Of all our trips we have only spent one day with 2 hr massages at GW in Maui. I would highly recommend this spa to anyone visiting. A class of its own.

May we someday be there long enough to need a massage!!! Great report!!!

I vote we all chip in to send SAP BACK to Hawaii for more experiences to write to us about! Great reports! We can all save many bucks just living vicariously through her! I want to photograph MY kids against a mango sky... Sigh! Thanks SAP. Thanks for the Lava Flow recipe as well. 5 more days 'til paradise!

Send me back? Oo-oo-oo, sounds like a great plan! I'll just, uh, leave PAP at home w/the kids. . .

Day 8 - Haleakala High and a Funky Goodbye

&quot;Check-out&quot; can be such a sad word, no wonder we use it as a euphemism for death.

I had optimistically planned to pack most of our stuff early, go snorkeling one last time and then come back to the room to shower before we left Wailea. The packing, unfortunately, took way longer than anticipated after I discovered the kids had been throwing their stuff into a large pile in the closet all week. Of course, I didn't hesitate to let them know -- repeatedly -- that this was the reason we couldn't say goodbye to the beach.

When PAP headed over to the front desk, the rest of us managed to sneak down to the grounds for another look. We stopped to watch a native Hawaiian weaving palm frond baskets on the lawn and, after we had admired his work for awhile, he started &quot;talking story.&quot; I had frequently heard this term before, but this was my first experience w/the real thing. It really isn't just what we call small talk, but seems more like a social art form -- like bartering in the Middle East.

As he bent &amp; twisted the fresh leaves, he told us how his mother made a basket for each of her nine kids when they were born and then another when they got married. He keeps mementos and little treasures in his baskets: ticket stubs, his first driver's license, a dried flower from his wedding lei. Every year, he adds another palm frond flower to the outside of each basket to mark time.

I was thoroughly charmed by this man and his Hawaiian hope chests, but my things were packed and I could see PAP gesturing to me from the lobby. Here was a natural, native product I had actually witnessed being made by a native who had shared a little of his personal history with me -- none of this made in China on an assembly line thing - and wouldn't you know, I hadn't even brought my purse. He said he'd be in Hana next year, though, so now I have another reason to go back.

We enjoyed the perfect breakfast for our last morning in paradise. Driving through Kihei, we pulled into the Rainbow Mall to get shave ice from the Espresso Shack across from Kam III. Let me tell you, this was the best shave ice I've ever had -- even better than Jo'Jo's in Kauai. The servings were so big, the kids couldn't even finish. Naturally, I'd ordered the best flavor combo: vanilla ice cream on the bottom, mango syrup over the ice and coconut cream on top. JP's sour apple was downright gross, but the blue vanilla PAP and MS had was pretty good. I was disappointed they only had vanilla ice cream, but they give you two scoops w/lots of ice.

On the way upcountry to Haleakala, we stopped at Komoda Bakery in Makawao for the second half of breakfast: malasadas. The selection was almost completely gone. I imagine large groups come down from the sunrise tours and raid the place before noon. We bought the remaining few lilikoi and guava-filled kinds. PAP sampled a glazed donut, which didn't impress him, but we all really liked the malasadas. The lilikoi was most ono.

Haleakala Road is winding, but I had given JP a dose of Dramamine. There were gorgeous views in 3 directions (north, west and south). We were surprised to still see bikers coming down the mountain at 1:00 p.m. Could these guys have been there since sunrise? Within just a few miles, we were enclosed in fog and could barely see the road in front of us. I was a little worried at this point that the whole peak would be socked in &amp; it would be a wasted trip. You have no way of knowing if you're driving through a cloud halo or an entire cap.

Once we climbed above the cloud layer, though, it was a spectacular sight. PAP kept saying, &quot;I'm so glad you talked me into this.&quot; Already planning our next trip, I wasted no time in following up with, &quot;Now, imagine how great it is at sunrise?&quot;

There were very few people at the visitor centers or summit and it wasn't even cold, which I imagine is a far cry from the early a.m. scenario. We were fine at 60 degrees just pulling on a sweatshirt, but I think the wind chill up there is the biggest weather factor. PAP was enchanted with the colors of the crater and took a lot of pics w/both cameras. In the meantime, I was drooling over the views of the BI's 2 volcanoes rising up from the waters in the south.

MS and I wanted to walk down Sliding Sands trail part way for some better interior views, but there were horse droppings covering the entire path My toes curled right up into my Tevas at the thought of mucking my way down there w/out boots. I'd recommend a tour on someone else's hooves for that little adventure.

IMO, the tastiest views of Maui were on the way back down the volcano. An entire half of the island (head and shoulders) is spread out before you. Both Ma'alaea and Kahului Bays are visible in one awesome panoramic view, but good luck getting them into the same photograph.

We arrived in Kahului much earlier than anticipated, so we drove to Kanaha Beach Park to see the kitesurfers. Watching them put on all the gear &amp; get their kites started was kind of cool. PAP took a lot of pics of them doing tricks in the water.

Dinner at Manana Garage was a funky way to end the trip The decor looks like it was brainstormed by a group of college guys sitting at a bar drinking tequila shots. Among other colorful features, the handles to the big, orange entry doors are gas pumps; the napkin holders are hose clamps and the waitress station looks like a large tool chest. The food was really quite good - sort of a fusion of Mexican, Cuban and local Hawaiian. The prices are a little high for that type of cuisine, but not alarmingly so.

The real winners of our meal were the lilikoi margarita, a delicious mound of pulled adobo pork and the Manana Garage signature dessert: a strange but excellent sweet potato/vanilla ice cream sandwich drizzled w/caramel (the sweet potato was in the cookie crust &amp; tasted more like pumpkin). Like the whole vacation, it was better than expected and left you wanting more.

Aloha!

Sap, did you have those unbelievable pink, blue and white clouds when you drove back down Haleakala? They were amazing when we drove down late one afternoon.... it's such a memory that my sister just gave us a beautiful vase with those blue, pink and white colors swirled in it to celebrate our 40th anniversary. (The four of us were together on that trip, and we've never forgotten how beautiful it was, late in the day, like that.) Well, thank you for taking me back!:-) Sigh............

Yeah, the clouds are really a range of pastels. I wonder if it varies with the amount of sunlight, water content and reflection of the landscape.

Hi Sap, You've encouraged me to make another trip up the crater. We were terribly disappointed last year to find ourselves surrounded by fog all the way up, at the top, then all the way down. As that's our typical morning weather pattern here in Northern CA, I could have been standing in my front yard for the same view! Thanks for the great description. Aloha!

Sap: Can you please describe the Highway 31 ride back from Hana to the Tedechi Winery. How was the condition of the road (ok for regular sedan?) and did it save time going this way? Apart from the blind turns, any other plusses or minuses in going this way? I am thinking of taking it Hana, to get an early start on the Pipiwai Trail...what do you think?

Forkinmouth, the road would be fine in a sedan, but the condition really varies from one stretch to the next. The section of dirt road was actually smoother than the old paved portion. Much of it is new, though. I doubt whether it saved any time, but we took it for a different view.

Personally, I would hesitate to take it counter-clockwise. If you do that, you're on the cliff side making those blind turns. I had originally thought about doing the same thing to get to the Pipiwai Trail and Oheo Gulch early, but I wouldn't do it now. If you're a skilled, brave driver and you've had plenty of coffee that morning, you might chance it. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that gone2maui says the locals (who drive faster 'cause they know the road well) often head that way in the morning to avoid tourists.

I agree with sap, I also thought that the badly paved section was worse then the dirt road section. You can hardly go faster than 15-20 mph because of the bumpy road. But it was fine if you take it slow.

We did cross paths with a few 'crazy' locals who were driving really fast on the other side (counter clockwise).

I don't really think that you would get much of a head start at Pipiwai anyway. It takes about the same time to get to Kipahulu from either direction, and, if get behind a ranch vehicle in the morning it can really slow you down. DH added close to an hour to his drive to Kaupo once recent morning because he got stuck behind a ranch truck hauling cinder blocks. There was just no way to get around him!