atregg

My husband and I are in the planning stages for about a 4 week road trip next Aug/Sep and I could use your ideas and suggestions.

Adventure starts in Redwoods along the northern Calif coast. Then we'll go to Grants Pass so we can raft the Rogue R before going to Crater Lake. We'll visit friends in Eugene. I'm looking at state parks along the Ore coast where we could rent a yurt for 2 nights before going to Portland. Then we'll drive the Columbia Gorge to Mr Hood. What waterfalls are the best to stop at and where to stay?

My main dilemma is the route to take from The Dalles to Banff and how much town should I allow. Probably 3 nights in Banff. What drives or hikes (up to 3 hours) could we do in 2 days to see the beauty and the wildlife? Lodging?

Then down to Glacier for 3 nights. Same questions.

I went to Yellowstone one winter on a snowmobile trip and saw the geysers. What could we see in 1 day/2 nights there?

Plan on stopping at Salt Lake City to see Olympic training area.

Bryce and Zion are high on my list. Probably 3 nights each. If I cant get lodging in the park we have the option of camping in the back of our Excursion. What's the best way to see these parks?

Adventure ends and head home to Louisiana.

Appreciate any help you can give.

Connie

I spent a lot of time looking for state parks along the Oregon coast a couple of years ago. Most don't have campgrounds. Ft Stephens out of Astoria has a huge campground. I don't know if they have yurts.

We really enjoyed Cannon Beach and Ecola State Park (for views--no camping).

Multnomah Falls is the most famous water fall along the Columbia River gorge. There are some beautiful viewing points for the river as well. You will need to get off the interstate and onto the old highway (south side).

The further north you drive from Banff to Jasper the better the views. Our friends from Montana call that area Glacier N.P. on steroids!

In Glacier you will want to drive the Going to the Sun road over and back. It's worth seeing twice and looks different from opposite angles. The road along the south end of the park are not worth your time. There are lots of good trails. I suggest you get a day hiking guide book. The drive and hiking are the two main things to do in Glacier.

If you've only seen Yellowstone in winter you definitely need to see it in summer. I've seen it both of year and it's totally different. You can see most highlights in a couple of days. It takes time to drive the loops and traffic is slow. You will be given a really good map with highlights shown. In your short time, I would concentrate on the southern loop--Old Faithful and geyser areas, Canyon and Lake areas. You might want to shave a night off of Glacier and give it to Yellowstone. It takes a lot more time to see Yellowstone because it is so much larger with so many things to stop and see.

I would definitely go through the Grand Tetons and Jackson on your say to SLC. You can just drive through and stop for pictures. I recommend driving out on the highway instead of going into the park. You get a much better view of the range from there. That is unless you are staying the night then stay at one of the lodges in the park or stay in Jackson. Jackson is a fun town to spend a little time walking around in.

Unless you plan to do a lot of hiking, you can see Bryce and Zion each in a day. They are very small. Maybe give some of those nights to Yellowstone. While in the area swing down to see the north rim of the Grand Canyon. It isn't all that far and very worth it.

Am I correct to assume you are only camping if you can get yurts? A lot of parks do not have them. Are you driving from home? Can you carry a tent? If flying, pay a little to put it in a duffel and put it on the plane. You will save tons on accommodations by camping to make that expense worth your while. We've done it with two large duffels full of essential camping supplies.

sunbum1944

The Umqua Lighthouse State park has very nice yurts- we stayed in a deluxe one which had a small kitchen, indoor plumbing- it is not on the ocean- its on a small lake - but its not far from the ocean-

Where to stay along the Gorge- I suggest the Edgefield or the Best Western in Hood River. The Edgefield is a fun place at the beginning of the Gorge - however, all rooms do not have their own bath- was not a problem for me but you should know in advance.

Dayle

atregg,

Other than Yellowstone, have you been to the west before? Even with 4 weeks, I think you are being very ambitious. It sounds like you have over a week planned just for Oregon.

Anyway, which Olympic training facilities were you interested in? The Utah Olympic Park with the sliding and jumping facilities, the Ski Team's training center, or the Speed Skating Oval?

I would suggest more than just a day for Bryce and Zion, especially Zion. Deserves at least 2 days even without a lot of hiking.

Are you driving out or flying? Does your 4 weeks include travel time from Louisiana?

Sounds like a great trip, I just hope you will not be too rushed!

tomfuller

I have stayed at yurts at Sunset Bay SW of Coos Bay and also at Tugman SP near the Oregon Dunes. Either would work for you if you are driving your own vehicle. You don't want to fly and rent a vehicle one way with a big drop off fee.
As for leaving Oregon, head east on I-84 to Umatilla and cross the river on I-82. Go through Spokane and head east on US 2 at least as far as Whitefish.
Last spring my wife and I left our car in Spokane and rode the Empire Builder all the way to Chicago. On the way back on the Empire Builder, we got off at Cut Bank MT and rented a car to see the east side of Glacier.
It is possible to cover all this in 4 weeks but it is a huge amount of driving if you start the drive in Louisiana.

Marginal

The Dalles to Banff? Long drive for sure.

I think this is too much for your 4 week itinerary. It is full enough if you just go to Yellowstone from The Dalles.

I don't think you have enough time to drive or even fly from Oregon to Banff.

tomfuller

FYI the Empire Builder leaves Spokane at 1:30AM every day and arrives in Whitefish MT before 8AM.
The best hotel in Spokane IMO is the Davenport.
I would plan on going by way of Glacier on the way to Banff.

Fodorite018

I would encourage you to cut back on your destinations just a tad. Otherwise you won't have enough time to actually enjoy the places you stop.

Crater Lake is a great place, and I highly recommend doing the boat tour if you have time. It gives you a whole different perspective of the lake, and there is a Ranger on board who gives loads of information.

I agree with Sunbum about staying at the Edgefield in the gorge. It is in Troutdale, which is pretty much right where the gorge begins. Definitely take the old scenic highway instead of I-84 as this will allow you to see much more. Key stops include Portland Woman's Forum (odd name, great views), Crown Point Vista House, and Multnomah Falls. There are lots more great places along here, but these are the biggies. The Edgefield is a McMenamin property, which each one is unique. Hard to describe, but check out the website and you can see for yourself.

As for Banff, we have made the drive from here (we live near Portland) to Banff/Lake Louise a handful of times. It is doable in a long day, but of course if you break up the drive it will allow you to arrive in the afternoon which means you can actually enjoy your time there. We have gone up to Wenatchee and then cut up through the Oakanagan. On that route, Penticton is a nice place to stop for the night. Otherwise if you head over to Spokane, I agree the Davenport is fantastic(we have stayed there). From Spokane just head north.

As for lodging in Banff, we have stayed at the Banff Springs which was wonderful. The other place we really like is over by Lake Louise and is Baker Creek Chalets. We have been return guests there several times and absolutely love it. It is just outside of Lake Louise, towards Banff, on the Bow Valley Parkway. Johnston Canyon is nearby and is a great place for a short hike. Be sure to go all the way to the Paint Pots there.

atregg

Thanks for all the input. Made me rethink things. Will omit Banff and put more time in Yellowstone.

Also looking at a Snake R raft trip. Does anyone have an opinion on rafting the Snake R vs. the Rogue R? Also what about the fast jet boat rides on the Rogue R near Grants Pass or the Columbia R near Portland?

We're mainly looking for scenery and out door activity. If we stay at the Edgefield I might skip Portland unless someone gives me a reason to go there.

Sunset Bay is one of the SP's I am looking at. And I see there are sand dunes around Florence where you can take a dune buggy tour. I am thinking of staying one night at Sunset Bay and then driving up the coast and staying at another northern park the 2nd night. Where exactly might depend on the route to Portland. There's Hwy 30 from Astoria, Hwy 26 from Cannon Beach, Rd 6 from Bay City or Rd 18 from LIncoln City - is any one better than the others?

We are driving from La and the time is flexible. We have an Excursion and my husband thinks maybe we can sleep in the back of it instead of buying a tent.

WE have been out west before, but not northern west. Been to Colo a few times. We did a 7 day raft trip thru the Grand Canyon which was totally awesome and have been to the north rim. Never had time to go further, but I am recently retired and that's why the time is flexible.

Thanks again for your insight!

Fodorite018

Since you want to see the great outdoors, there is no compelling reason to spend time in Portland. It is a great city, don't get me wrong, but with your trip I would probably omit it.

As for the coast, we prefer hwy 26 over to Cannon Beach and then usually take hwy 6 back, sort of a loop. Hwy 18 is doable as well, especially if you want to take in any wineries on the way back. Hwy 6 though is very scenic.

atregg

Thanks mms. That helps me decide on Cape Lookout SP and then take Hwy 6. About how long should I allow to get to Edgefield from the coast?

Dayle,
I really haven't looked into the training facilities yet at SLC. I read in a brochure that you can ride the luge in Park City and hubby thinks that would be fun. I'd appreciate any input you have on the facilities. We'll probably just spend one day in SLC.

sunbum1944

The jet boat ride on the both the Snake and the Rogue River are both great trips. I usually do the all day trip on the Rogue- I have also hiked the Rogue River trail, spent a night at Paradise Lodge and then took the jet boat back out- that was fun.

The rapids on the Snake through Hells Canyon were much wilder than the Rogue- we saw lots of bears, mountain sheep, eagles- I love both of the trips.

Fodorite018

Roughly 2 hours between the coast and the Edgefield. More if you Portland at rush hour, so possibly allow for that.

Dayle

atregg,

I did a jet-boat tour on the Rogue River out of Gold Beach on the OR coast. It was fun on a hot day, we saw lots of osprey and herons, a bald eagle and even a bear. Scenery was nice, but not spectacular.

I don't know where exactly you are thinking of starting your river trips, especially on the Snake. It's a LONG river. The part in Idaho is pretty wild, the part through the Jackson Hole area is fun but not crazy. Scenery is incredible!

Olympic training facilities:

In Salt Lake Valley the Speed Skating Oval is in Kearns, a suburb.

In Park City, the Utah Olympic Park has the bobsled, luge and skeletion track. In the summer you can ride a wheeled sled on the real track. It goes about 60 mph.

The park also has the Nordic Ski Jumping hills and the Aerial Jumps for training. Training does go on in the summer. Definitely worth seeing! The aerialists put on a show at 5pm on Saturdays that should not be missed.

In the winter you can learn to skeleton or luge. They start you out easy....

Remember if you are camping - you need to store ANY food in your car or in a bear box (steel food storage containers provided at many camp sites). Just something to think about if you are intending to sleep in your car. There needs to be room for the cooler too, even in an Excursion.

wave725

We were just in Zion and Bryce this past September. You can spend one day in each and see spectacular scenery including a few spectacular short hikes. The best short hike in Bryce is the Queens/Navajo Combinatino Loop hike, which includes the spectacular "wall street" section. In Zion, the drive alone through the park is spectacular. For a short hike I wuold recommend the Canyon Overlook Trail, especially if you can get there early in the morning. You can see pictures and details of both hikes at our blogs:
http://hikinginglacier.blogspot.com/...-overlook.html
http://hikinginglacier.blogspot.com/...ll-street.html

In Glacier National Park, as stated above you will definteily want to drive the Going to the Sun Road, however, there are vehicle size restrictions on that road in case you're in an RV. There are several must do hikes: Hidden Lake Overlook, Iceberg Lake, Grinnell Glacier and the Highline Trail. You can check all the best hikes out rated by difficulty:
http://www.hikinginglacier.com/hikin...ional-park.htm

If you have concerns about hiking with bears in Glacier, a lot of hikes are offered in the ranger led hike program. Also, for the best hikes and scenery, you'll want to stay on the east side of the park, specifically the Many Glacier/St. Mary area.

Myer

To clarify what wave725 wrote:

Iceberg Lake and Grinnell Glacier are in the Many Glacier area and Hidden Lake Overlook and the Highline Trail start at Logan Pass at the highpoint of Going-to-the-Sun Road.

Most people on short visits spend the majority of their time on GTTS Road because you can see a lot by stopping at viewpoints along the road and relatively short walks/hikes. However, in my opinion the more spectacular scenery is in Many Glacier (Iceberg Lake and Grinnell Glacier hikes).

Highline starting at Logan Pass is no slouch either.

tomfuller

I have stayed a couple of nights at a yurt in the campground in Sunset Bay. It's a nice park when the weather is good. I found a couple geocaches near some very muddy trails there.
Glad you decided to see more of Yellowstone instead of heading north to Banff.
The other alternatives to US 26 into Portland would be to go on up to Astoria and cross the big bridge into Washington or go east on US 30 and cross the Columbia at Longview to get to I-5.

Kentucky

All the places you plan to see are truly beautiful and deserve a little time to hike, explore and enjoy. I can't imagine how one can cover so much territory even in a month. We took three weeks to camp and explore Glacier NP and the Canadian Rockies, one week for Rocky Mountain NP, two weeks for the Canyon National Parks and lands, and two weeks for Jackson Hole, Tetons, and Yellowstone- not all in the same summer. Even then we have returned to these areas to do and see things we didn't have time for on the first try.

This is a wonderful problem to have, deciding how to spend four weeks on the road. I like all of the above advice. I will have to say that my most favorite hike ever is the Highline Trail at the top of Going To The Sun Road. I think the area is called Logan Pass. I believe that Granite Chalet on the trail is now open for overnight stays, which would allow you to turn around and go back out the same way the next day to Logan Pass. This is much prettier than the four miles on the other side of the Chalet that hits the GTTSRoad further down. Please remember that the area usually does not open until around the second week of July because of snow. We hiked the Highline the first day it opened one July and we were on snow for part of the trail. Also, visibility is so important, and sometimes hard to find up there.

Best of luck! Would love to read a trip report on your four weeks.

Myer

Kentucky,

You are correct. The Highline trail starts at Logan Pass, across the road from the parking lot. Often there are mountain goats hanging around there.

We didn't go very far before turning back. About a mile or so. We didn't have much time and had already spent two days in spectacular scenery and wildlife in Many Glacier.

Also, we had just hike to Hidden lake Overlook and were on our way to St Mary / Virginia Falls hike.

I expect to go further along on Highline next summer.

Glacier has a short season so you have to be somewhat lucky.

The Highline trail hike to Granite Chalet may not be for everyone. It's about 15 mile return with an elevation gain of about 1,900 feet. May not be for most people.

Glacier is beautiful.

But so are all the other places.

atregg

Thanks for all the input. Trip still shaping up. The more I add the longer it gets, so we're going to drop Zion and Bryce this time. Those are closest to home and we can catch them another year with a trip to Colorado.

Following my friend in Eugene's advice, after we get back from the Rogue River jet boat trip we'll drive up to Bullard's Beach near Bandon for the night. Next day drive up to see Sunset Bay SP and Shore Acres SP and then inland to Crater Lake for the night.

After we leave Eugene we'll head toward Florence and do the sandrail tour. Head up toward Newport, stopping at Beverly Beach SP. Go up to the Three Capes Loop and stay at Cape Lookout SP. I'd like to do the hike to the end of the cape.
We're now Aug 29th and I don't need to be to Cambridge Idaho until Sep 1 for our Hells Canyon Raft trip. Need suggestions here for the day and where to stop. Will probably skip Edgefield and stay the nite of the 30th at Hood R. On the 31st we'll drive up Mt Hood and then maybe go south and spend the night in Bend.(we'll have done a day trip to the Cascades from from Eugene)

Glacier - Planning to spend first night at Lake McDonald Lodge. Next day drive GTTS and up to Many Glacier Lodge for the 2nd night. Then do either Iceberg Lake or Grinnell Glacier hike. Dont think we'll have time to do both. I know it's personal preference, but which one would you recommend and why?

Next day maybe going to Two Medicine and spending night at Browning. I read in a trip report about Tipi village and sleeping in a tepee. You can have a traditional Blackfeet Indian supper and a tribal member talks about their history.
I'm interested in more Indian cultural experiences - like maybe some Indian dancing. Any ideas?

It's going to be a long drive to Yellowstone, so the 1st night I'll make a reservation somewhere in Gardiner. Working our way into the park, maybe via Fishing Bridge and Yellowstone Lake and spending 2 nights at Grant Village campground - it looks pretty centrally located. Is a day enough to drive to Firehole Falls and back? I'd like to see a few geysers. I've seen Old Faithful and don't want to spend a day just going from one geyser to another and waiting for them to erupt. Are there good hikes to take that are not over 1 -2 hours? I would like to do a chuck wagon ride and supper one night. Is there one from Grant Village? I'm just really confused about how much to plan for a day because of slow going on crowded roads. We'll be arriving Sept 8th so I'm hoping most of the crowds are gone.

After all this gorgeous scenery we'll have seen, is it worth spending a night at Grand Teton to hike around Jenny Lake, or should we just pass it by and look at the Tetons from the hwy?
We want to spend a night at Park City and the Utah Olympic Park for the bobsled ride.

We'll have been on the road 4 weeks by this time and I think we'll be more than ready to head home. Longest road trip I've ever planned. It's just that it takes us so long to get to this beautiful part of our country that we want to see as much as we can. I really appreciate all the input you've given!!