sharondi

Hello to all our southern Utah-loving friends on Fodors -
Peter and I are FINALLY getting back out there (after 5 long yrs) and would love to get some input. Admittedly, we have our general itinerary of where we want to spend each day pretty well set.

Now we want to fill in the good stuff - places off the beaten path that are really special. We will drive or hike to most places within reason (always prepared and VERY cautious), love photography, always seeking ruins/rock art/other cultural/historic artifacts, and try to avoid the crowds.

We're flying into LV early (10am arrival) and heading straight to Kanab, mostly hoping for a quick visit to Best Friends. I am a supporter and want to see their incredible operation in person.

Our last trip was 10 days spent exploring between Zion and Capitol Reef including a few nights in Bryce and a hike to the Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon, link to trip report: http://www.pbase.com/peterb/utah_tr&page=1

The main focus of this trip is Moab and the southeastern corner of Utah. We want to hike in Needles district (any thoughts - Chesler Park?), spend a few nights in Moab (Fiery Furnace, not sure what else but I love Arches), Cedar Mesa, Mule Canyon, Natural Bridges.

I'm not a huge fan of the southern route over to MV/Valley of the Gods from Kanab and I'm not sure I want to spend time trying to get a permit to The Wave/Coyote Buttes (will continue to research though). So we're going to drive from Kanab to Torrey with no major stops and hope to camp at Fruita our 2nd night. We'll be heading back this way on our return with more time to spare.

An early morning at Goblins is likely then onto Moab on 3rd day for 2 nights. Plenty to amuse us here and need to provision for 3 nights camping. 5, 6 & 7th nights camping at Canyonlands Needles area, Valley of Gods and Natural Bridges - generally. We're flexible but want to explore some ruins/rock art that we've been researching. Any suggestions are very welcome. From Natural Bridges, we'll drive route 95 to Hanksville with lots of stops on the way - there are just loads of sites to explore! That night at Boulder Mtn Lodge, of course. And a fine meal with our pals at Hell's Backbone Grill.

Hope to camp somewhere around Escalante the next night - always find incredible places to roam including some unique formations down the Hole in the Rock Road (Devils Garden is as far as we've gotten). Then our last night in Springdale because we love Zion and enjoy ending our trips there. Plus our flight doesn't leave LV until almost midnight the following day so we have a full day before we have to head to LV - may go and check out Kolob Canyon area of Zion - any advice?

That is our general plan - any and all thoughts/advice is always greatly appreciated. As you all know, planning is almost as much fun as the trip itself.......not quite, though. Thanks Guys!

Tomsd

You seem pretty well dialed in. The Inter-Agency tourist office in Escalante was very helpful - and they also had a guide to camping in the area.

Even of more help this trip was their recommendation for the Kiva coffee house/cafe - about 20? minutes north of Escalante, and it had wonderful coffee (free refills and a great view/setting. I filed a recent trip report (see Utah) with some other info - but here is the site, and next time - we may even stay in the cottage: http://www.kivakoffeehouse.com/

Dayle

Hi Sharon! I'm so excited for you and Peter to get out here again!

Your trip sounds great. Best Friends - they have a short version tour and then a longer indepth tour, but that is only done a couple of times a day. Check out the times for the longer tour since I'm sure that is the one you will want. I would have had to wait around for over 2 hours before the next one, so settled for the short tour which was still interesting.

Needles - their campground is really hard to get in to. Very high demand. It has always been first-come-first-served and no res at all. They talked about starting to take some advance res years ago, but I really don't know if they ever started that system. It's a neat campground and very small.

There is a commercial campground just outside the park boundary and as usual it's not nearly as nice. But if you are only there for 1 night, it doesn't matter much.

Chesler Park is a great hike. It's rightfully the big draw in Needles. There is also a shorter one I enjoyed and if I remember correctly it's called the Pot Holes. Short, pretty easy and nice views. The pot holes are interesting.

If you can't get a permit for the Wave, you might like to ry noe of Myer's favorites. Willis Creek near Escalante. I haven't done it yet, but I recommended it to a friend and his family really liked it.

I think you are talking about doing the Muley Twist canyon? That's another one on my list. I do understand from co-workers that it's a very rough 4x4 road to the start of the slot.

If you are going to Valley of the Gods, the VOG B&B is a very unique place to stop for a night. It's completely off the grid. Wind and solar powered and they do have to truck in their water.

The Kolob section of Zion is fabulous! Awesome scenery and some very nice hikes. The Taylor Fork river hike is great and if you want to do a long, fast thru hike, you can do the West Rim trail. You would need to arrange a one-way shuttle ride and it's quite a long hike. Lots of people get permits and backpack overnight. You come out at Scout's Overlook at Angels' Landing, then continue down to the bottom.

I don't remember it you have any climbing experience/equip? If you can get a permit to do The Subway - it's my all time favorite I hike ever! Fortunately for me, I went with someone who is an expert canyoneer and has done the Subway more times than he could remember. It was a real treat, but definitely one you can't do without some minimal equipment.

One thing, I know you guys have specific interests and places you want to visit (which is why you are researching now), but due to the severe lack of snow in the SW this year, we are in for a very bad fire season. It's started early with a big fire buring now around Capitol Reef and of course the monster in NM. Have lots of good options on your list so you can change destinations if needed.

Happy planning!

sharondi

Thanks for the great info. We're not climbers, Dayle - I was looking at the Subway and it sounds incredible. Taylor Creek in Kolob sounds interesting - still reading about that area. We stayed at VOG B&B a few trips back and loved it. Really enjoyed our conversations with Gary and Claire, the owners - great folks. We've read about some great free camping sites though and will likely go that route this trip. We're sending gear out ahead since costs for luggage on our flight would cost more than the flight itself....go figure.

Glad you mentioned the fire season, Dayle. That may very well alter our plans; that's happened a few times before due to rain. We're leaving our schedule a little flexible - if it's pouring out, we're getting a room. Getting too old to suffer too much.... Peter is a serious weather watcher so he'll be keeping tabs on the fires. I didn't know there was one near Capitol Reef...one of my favorite areas.

Mule Canyon is off of Route 95 and there are apparently a bunch of ruins and rock art off the main road throughout this area. Still doing some research - but it's different than Muley Twist. Any thoughts on staying in Moab? I'm not a fan of the big hotel chains and don't need anything too fancy. Prefer a pool/hottub area, if possible for soothing old muscles... Also like to be walking distance to town. Looking at Rustic Inn, Moab Valley Inn - any thoughts?

tomsd - We love Kiva Koffeehouse - what a gorgeous building and setting! The rooms look amazing though a little pricey. We always stop for a snack/coffee. We also have a few special backroads nearby that we love to explore. Man! I'm getting really fired up! Ready to go now! Thanks for the info. Keep it coming.

spirobulldog

My very favorite thing to do is www.deserthighlights.com

Also, I have some info for a portion of your trip that I think you would interested. A fodorite shared it with me and I'd be happy to email it to you, but I don't want to post it here.

my email is [email protected]

WhereAreWe

What all have you done in Arches? The Devils Garden loop is great for half a day.

Kolob Canyon section is nice enough, I've only done the hike up Taylor Creek to Double Arch Alcove. It was ok.

Consider a stop at Snow Canyon State Park on your way back to Vegas. It's get some nice shorter hikes and cool/interesting formations. Plus you can take a shower there before your flight.

StantonHyde

Chesler Park is amazing. Truly one of the best hikes I have ever done.

Hole in the Rock road--absolutely do Peek a Boo slot canyon. There is one slot right where the trail drops in the canyon and then there is also Spooky. Those 3 are awesome. Also climbing down the actual Hole in The Rock to Lake Powell is really cool and not that difficult. It takes something like 2 hours to drive to the end of that road though so it depends on your time. Have you done Calf Creek Falls? That is very pretty.

Cedar Mesa--my favorite place!! You can hike down Grand Gulch to the first set of habitation sites and back in a day. You can get a permit at the Kane Gulch Ranger station. Road Canyon is also interesting--not sure if you need a day permit to hike that. (and you may or may not need one in Grand Gulch--check the regulations which are online) There are some amazing other places there but you should ask the Kane Gulch rangers about them--I am really reluctant to put that info online since these places are under so much more pressure from people.

Natural Bridges is really neat and they have a nice campground there.

Instead of the Wave, you could always do a hike into Buckskin Gulch and come back out. (You use the same parking area as the Wave) There are petraglyphs in there.

Kolob section of Zion is incredible!!! Way fewer people and a gorgeous ecosystem.

emalloy

If you like rock art there is a lot in the Moab area, some along Potash Road, Kane Creek road, Courthouse Wash and near the Golf course. They have maps in the Arches VC, and are near the road, none involve much hiking. Also north of I - 70 east of 191 is Thompson Wash/Sego Canyon, just get off at the Thompson exit and go north on the only road, there were signs last time we were there. There are some pictographs and petroglyphs from Basketmaker to Ute. on the right side as you go in there is a corral with nice ones against the back wall that aren't with the main group. There are pit toilets there too. If you click my name you can see a couple of TRs from the area with links to pictures if you are interested.

We should have done the Great Gallery 20 years ago. I'm still trying to figure out a way to get in there without climbing down and then back up again.

Have a fantastic trip and report back.

spirobulldog

My favorite Petroglyphs are at Horseshoe Canyon in detached area of Canyonlands. This is known as The Great Gallery. It is a nice hike and isn't far from Goblin Valley.

spirobulldog

emalloy,

Just read your post. It's really not that bad of a hike down and out. Not sure what you mean by "climbing". It is maybe just a tad bit worse than say Delicate Arch hike. There is some sand for parts of the way in the bottom that makes it slow going.

Don't expect many people here and you would want to check road conditions before you head out.

hawksbill

I have done the Chesler Park hike. It was excellent, but I think I liked the Confluence Overlook hike even more. Warning: it's longer. Another warning: You didn't say when you're going, but I was just in Moab two weeks ago, and temperatures were topping 100 in the afternoons.

If you've discovered Hell's Backbone Grill, then I'm sure that you have also discovered Whiptail Grill in Springdale. If not, do! I also like Cafe Diablo in Torrey. I think I was referred there by Fodorites on this forum.

sharondi

Thanks everyone for all the great information. We are going in early Sept so temps should be a little more tolerable.

We've done Calf Creek, Horseshoe Canyon, all of the most popular hikes in Arches (except Fiery Furnace), Bryce, Zion and Capital Reef. Have been to Sego and the rock art sites along Potash Rd, but will definitely check out the other Moab sites. Any other suggestions for Moab area would be great - even dining and lodging recommendations. Moab is the only place that we haven't reserved lodging yet.

I am really leaning toward Chesler Park hike - we've never spent any time in the Needles area and Chesler seems the most interesting and scenic.

emalloy - the horseshoe canyon hike to the Great Gallery isn't that bad - only about 7.5 miles roundtrip and the only tough spot is the long, sandy uphill on the way out. It is remote, though. There was no one else in there the day we did it, and it was HOT! Plus we made it out just before a big rainstorm - yikes!

We will definitely check out Whiptail Grill in Springdale. Cafe Diablo is great -been there a few times.

Thanks so much for the email, spiro. Still not sure that will do much over near Kanab other than Best Friends. We have a bit of a drive the 2nd day from Kanab to Torrey but no real plans for that day so we'll be winging it. Also want to get to Torrey early enough to snag a camping site at Fruita.

Thanks again to all of you. Please keep the info coming! Enjoying the excitement of planning and checking out all of your wonderful suggestions.

emalloy

Thanks for the encouragement about Great Gallery, Sharondi and Spiro, but we're in our 70s and live at sea level. It takes us longer to acclimate and we aren't in as good shape as we once were, but if I can get DH to take more than a week or so off, we might try it yet.

Dayle

Sharon,

There is a B&B in Moab taht I have recommended and visited many times over the years - The Dreamkeeper Inn. It's just your kind of place! Small though and always books up. Just a couple blocks to Main Street, huge shady backyard with pool and hot tub. Very relaxing environment.

I've stayed during the original owners who did the remodel, the second owners who became friends, and the current owners who are artists. I have only stayed once under the current owners and breakfasts were not quite as good as they used to be, but sufficient.

Check out their web site.

tomfuller

If you are looking for some things off the beaten track, there are 2 that come to mind. About 21 miles north of Moab and about 1.5 miles east of US 191 is Copper Ridge. Here you will find genuine dinosaur tracks in stone.
The other oddity I found is Chrystal Geyser. This is a rare cold water geyser on the bank of Green River about 6 miles SE of the town of Green River.
I did manage to get my rental car to each site without doing any damage.
There is a campground in the town of Green River and also a campground at Goblin Valley SP.

sharondi

tomfuller, thanks for the info. I've heard Crystal Geyser mentioned on this forum quite awhile ago. Pretty cool!

Dayle, we tried Dreamkeeper but they're closed! We were bummed. Still not sure where to stay.

tomfuller

We stayed at the Robbers Roost in Green River. Not fancy but clean and a good way to save a few bucks compared to Moab.

emalloy

We've also stayed in Green River at the River Terrace Inn. Really a motel, but with an excellent breakfast. If you're going to/coming from Goblin Valley to Moab it is between the two.

Dayle

Sharon,

So sad to hear that. The last time I called, there was no answer and I thought perhaps they had decided to close during the winter months. What a shame, it was SUCH a wonderful property for a B&B. I could tell when I was there that the last owners were not really into the B&B thing so I'm not really surprised it didn't last for them.

There is another B&B across the street run by another couple (coincidentally also named Dave and Kim) called Calle Cochita. It's in a historical home and has a hot tub. GREAT breakfasts and Dave and Kim are very nice and accomodating. You might check that one.