Phantom Ranch Hike Tips
 

Hi Everyone -
My friend and I will be doing this trip in March. Have 2 nights booked at Phantom Ranch and will be hiking down the South Kaibab, back up Bright Angel.

For those who have done this before, any tips? Suggestions?

We are not regular hikers but we are training for this hike. I've been hiking one of our local mountains (1200 ft elevation gain in 1.2 miles) 3-4 times a week. I realize there is nothing to completely prepare for this but we are doing our best to not go into this hike blind.

I've done lots of internet searching on everything from food, to proper boot fit (think I might need new ones), water, potential trail conditions, clothing, etc. But I thought I would check in here to see if anyone has anything to add from their experiences.

Thanks in advance!
Colleen

You may need crampons at the beginning of the trails due to ice.Check with Bright Angel Lodge Ranger for condtitions..

Buy new boots now if you're going to get them so they can be broken in.

Read lots of trip reports: http://www.hitthetrail.com/ and http://www.bobspixels.com/kaibab.org/ are 2 good websites to start, if you haven't already found them.

Are you at the campground or the dorms? Eating at the canteen or taking your own? Figure out how much weight you'll have in your pack (that'll depend somewhat on the above questions) and start wearing your pack on those local hikes. Gradually increase the weight you're carrying until you're close to the estimated packweight for the GC trip. I'd be hiking that mountain twice each time you go out there.

I read a lot of advice to rest with my feet up every hour on the way down. The prevailing thought was this keeps the feet from getting too swollen and prevents extremely sore feet the following day. I only put my feet up once, but I did elevate them while I slept overnight and they were fine the next day.

Take your time on the way and don't turn it into a death march. Make sure you eat and drink enough. I suppose if you only have a mile to go you can push through the hunger and tiredness, but if you've got more than that distance remaining resist the urge and just sit down and take a break.

Hike up the Clear Creek trail to the stone bench on one of your off days. Just past that on the right side is a little social trail that leads about 10 feet off-trail to a great view of the inner canyon.

Make sure you attend the ranger talks at Phantom. They're very entertaining. If you are hiking from Phantom to the rim in one day, consider using the mule duffel service to carry your stuff back for you.

Thanks for the quick replies...they are much appreciated!

We will be staying in the dorms and have meals reserved (sack lunches as well).

I plan on keeping my pack as light as possible. Clothing wise, it'll probably be what's on my back with something to wear at the bottom (and can function as an extra layer if needed). Given the time of year, we'll have to prepare for varying temperatures so that will probably weigh us down a little.

Snack/Food suggestions? Any ideas on how much water? I know South Kaibab has none and we won't count on there being any on Bright Angel either.

And trust me, this will be no death march. *LOL* If it takes us 10 hours to get out, so be it!

Thanks again - I appreciate it!
Colleen

Good points by TheWeasel.

Here is another website with photos and a trail description (although they did the hike in one day---not recommended!):

http://www.genehanson.com/c2003b/cany2003.htm

Your boots are crucial. Make sure they fit well, are broken in, and your toes do not touch the front when you walk downhill. Carry a blister kit even if you haven't gotten blisters on your practice hikes. I got terrible blisters from my (well broken-in) usual hiking boots the first time we did this hike. The second time, in the same boots, I used Bodyglide on my heels, and special anti-blister socks, and was fine.

Hiking poles help with the downhill.

You say you have 2 nights booked at Phantom Ranch so I assume you aren't carrying tents, etc. in a backpack. Did you also book meals (breakfast and dinner)? Hopefully you did. Then all you need to take is food for 3 lunches, and snacks. Salty snacks are good when you are drinking a lot of water. For lunch, we like to start out with deli sandwiches from the Canyon Marketplace the first day, and then just carry trail mix, beef jerky, and oranges for the next two.

Remember that all uneaten food, plus all wrappers, etc., must be carried back up. Do not leave any trash at all down there.

Start out both the hike down and the hike up with 2 liters of water per person. There is no place to refill as you go down the South Kaibab, but we've never finished the whole 2 liters on the downhill. Going up the Bright Angel, you can refill at Indian Gardens. We have generally consumed our 2 liters by that point, hiking uphill. Refill there so you have a full 2 liters for the rest of the way up.

Enjoy. It's a great experience.

Any tips for ME on how to get dorm reservations? March 1st is my day to call.

We were posting at the same time. I see you do have meals covered---good.

For clothing, take lightweight layers. For the hike, a light, long-sleeved baselayer (like Patagonia Capilene 2), a microfleece layer, and a wind/waterproof layer (Goretex or similar). I would carry an extra mid-layer, and a long-sleeved cotton shirt to wear at dinner and to sleep in. Nylon hiking pants--I wear those for hiking and wear shorts at Phantom, but we go in early april when it is warmer. You might get by with just 1 pr. of pants (plus something to sleep in) if you like to go super light.

Don't forget gloves or mittens---you could need them at the top, where it might be cold.

missypie---I responded to your question about getting Phantom reservations on your other thread. I don't know of any trick other than calling early and often, starting the instant to phone lines open on March 1. Be patient through the "hold" and have several alternative dates. It is partly luck on getting through.

I saw one travel magazine describe Phantom Ranch as the hardest reservations in the US to get. (They forgot about French laundry).

And if you don't get Phantom, consider camping at Bright Angel. I actually prefer that to sleeping in the dorm with strangers.

Get your calves and thighs ready - do some squats and calf raises several times a week. During and after your hike down, stretch them out. I think my calves were the sorest part of my body, and I still felt it on the way up after 2 nights down there.

I'd suggest gathering everything you plan on taking (including food/water, or at least items that can approximate their weight and volume) and load your pack. See if everything fits and if the weight is reasonable now, rather than waiting until the night before your hike. I stuffed my pack full, and then realized partway down that I had no room for my windbreaker once I took it off. It sounds like you're trying to go as light as possible which is good, but even light clothes can be bulky and take up lots of room.

I've used duct tape on any hot spots/blisters on my feet, and that worked quite well.

Yes to the hiking poles. Rent them if you don't want to buy.

I think enzian has you covered for food/water. My only advice is to try whatever food you're taking beforehand - there's no point in taking something if you hate it and won't eat it. You really don't want to sit down for your first break on S. Kaibab and discover you really don't like some of your snacks, because you'll have to carry that weight around for the next couple of days. The canteen at Phantom Ranch has some snack stuff for sale - since you're eating your meals down there, just take enough snacks for the way down and then buy whatever you need for the way up at Phantom.

Hi Missypie -
We were in the same boat as you last year for our March reservation. As the others have indicated, if you can have multiple people calling, that helps. I was the only one who was able to call for our reservation though and luck must have been on my side that day.
I called right when the reservation line opened on March 1 and after about 10 minutes of busy signals, the recorded message came on. It was about another 15 minutes on hold from there.

The best advice I would offer is keep trying and most importantly, be flexible with your dates. The late breakfasts were already booked when we got to that part of the reservation.

In terms of water, what would everyone recommend in regards to containers? Would it be easier to carry multiple smaller bottles since they could be dispersed throughout the pack?

Thanks again!
colleen

Yes to the duct tape----I buy the small rolls at REI and always take one. I had to duct tape both heels for the hike up. It's a last resort, but it works. Much better to avoid the blisters in the first place, however.

For water, I use 2 of the standard 1-liter Lexan bottles. My daypack has pockets for them, one on each side. One of mine is like this:

http://www.rei.com/product/738724

You drink from it like drinking from a straw---no need to remove the top.

My sister brought regular bottled water in plastic liter bottles. The bottles are lighter to carry, but I would worry about a puncture. Another person in our party used a new Camelback "hydration bladder" and it leaked, so he had to empty it of water and carry it back up as trash. Fortunately we still had enough water among the group members.

So I think the Lexan bottles are best.

The best (most popular) snack food we brought was good-quality tortilla chips. I carried them in a Tupperware container that doubled as my cereal bowl at breakfast. Those chips tasted wonderful after the hike down.

One more suggestion on your training---you might try doing that practice hike twice in a row (making it 4.8 miles and 2400 feet of gain total) one or two times between now and your GC hike. That will give your legs and feet a better idea of what they have to do for the hike. You'll actually be hiking down 4800 feet; I find it hardest on the bottoms of my feet.

Okay, after reading all of this, maybe I am too much of a wimp to attempt it. I'll have 12 months to get into shape if I get the reservations. May not be enough time!

Plenty of time! Get your reservations, and then you'll have incentive to prepare for the hike.

i did this same trip a number of years ago, it is fabulous, you will love it. i didn't do any special training or get special shoes, i did it my regular walking shoes, no problem, no blisters.i will add that i do walk every day at home, but that is at sea level. Don't worry you can do it, going down is easy, it's the last half of coming up the Bright Angel that builds character.

I agree with Enzian - get some BodyGlide and rub it all over your feet before you start hiking, it really does help. You can buy it at sporting goods stores, and places like REI and EMS. Also wear silk or polypropylene sock liners under your socks. And do bring some moleskin (and don't forget a small pair of scissors or a swiss army knife - you need some way to cut it to the right size if you need to use some).

Hiking poles are incredibly helpful, and can really save your knees.

I'm sorry Enzian's friend had trouble with his CamelBack, it sounds like he must have had a defective one. I love mine, especially on hikes where I'm using poles, so I can drink hands-free. It's so much easier to stay hydrated if you sip frequently, and don't have to keep stopping to dig out your water bottle and open it. If you decide to get one, try it out first, to make sure it works properly. If you do, I think you'll really like it.

I love my Camelback! It was a great help on this hike. We tried it out before we took the hike to make sure there were no leaks.

I would also be sure to have hiking poles. You can rent them from the general store in Grand Canyon Village for a very reasonable price.

I would also consider buying Yak-trax or some other type of crampon to use in case of ice. We saw tons of people fall on the first part of Bright Angel. They are very small and light so you can pack them easily and they won't be a nuisance if you don't wind up needing them.

How helpful are poles on a trip like this? Do they get in the way? Are they awkward to use? What is the proper use, if any?

All my hiking has been done without poles thus far, but I am considering renting a pair when Slickabrina and I begin our descent into the Canyon.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated! And thank you, TheWeasel, for your suggestion of attending Ranger talks at Phantom. I love Ranger talks and am usually teased for my insistence on hearing what these fine people have to say.

Hiking poles are very helpful at taking some of the stress off your legs on the descent, and to a lesser extent on the ascent.

Most poles are adjustable in length. When hiking on level ground, the length should be such that your elbow makes a 90 degree angle while the tip of the pole is on the ground. Lengthen them a bit for downhills, and shorten them a bit for uphills.

Think of the pole as an extension of your arms - you'll plant the tip in the ground with your right arm as your left leg swings forward, and vice versa.

On mostly level ground I really don't use mine, but on the steps and some of the rougher ground you'll encounter they are very helpful.

I think poles are a matter of personal preference. I always hike with 1 pole; use 2 for the Grand Canyon. I am small (5'2"), and many of those steps are BIG for my short legs. I don't think I could do the hike without them.

My husband doesn't use them and doesn't miss them.

The proper use? They can help take some of the weight off your knees when stepping down, and you can use your arms to do some of the work on the way up. For either purpose, I plant them both and transfer some weight to the poles. Sort of like "double-poling" on skis if you ski.

I've also used them to catch myself when I tripped or got off balance and otherwise would have fallen.

I do not use them to maintain my stride as some people do (called Nordic walking).

Slickabrina, our family of four (wife and 15 & 13 yr old sons) is also in the planning/training stages. We are hiking RTR starting at the NR and staying 2 nights at the Phantom Ranch. The advice on boots I've been receiving is the following: with proper hiking socks, put boot on and d/n tie laces. Bend foot at knee and jab toes into floor 3-4 times. With foot remaining in the toe down position check the distance btwn heel and back of boot. You should be able to insert a fingers width in btwn the heel and boot. 3 of our family members have bought boots. I have not. I need an extra wide and light boot. Any suggestions would help! I've read for every pound on your feet is like adding 6 lbs on your back. We have 3L Camelbacs for hydration and plan to eat plenty of salted food along the way.

missypie, good luck on reservations. I can only say it is the luck of the call. The 1st months effort was fruitless for 1 1/2 hrs. The 2nd month try I stated it must be a Miracle of God. I got thru in 10 min. Use muliple phones with speed dial.

Enzian, thanks for the advice on poles. Do you wear any hand protection to eliminate blisters? My wife is 5' nothing and poles my help. I'm also thinking of them for knee and ankle protection.

Slickabrina, keep us posted on your progress and give us a trip report at the end.

MES3

I think I am going to hit REI this weekend for boots. I still have to do the fit check (will do when I get home tomorrow from being on my feet for 5 hours) but I just don't feel comfortable with the way one of them seems to fit. Have heard good things about the Asolo Stynger so I might check those out.

I did the hike out to Havasu Falls in these but that trail doesn't nearly have the grade that the South Kaibab does.

Just wanted to say thanks again to everyone for sharing info! My cohort (Neotne) and I are finding it very helpful!!

MES3---try Keen boots---they have a wide and roomy forefoot. My husband bought a pair and loves them. Very lightweight, too. (He does joke about them looking like "clown shoes".)

I don't wear gloves with the poles (too hot, and I'd get a tan line!). The only time I've had trouble with hand blisters was when I faked it with ski poles, which have plastic grips. True trekking poles should have cork or EVA foam grips (mine have the latter). They are very comfortable. I vary my grip on them, and sometimes put a lot of weight on the wrist straps.

I have Komperdell Titanal poles, without the "anti-shock" (I've never figured out the point of that feature; it is expensive and adds weight). They have served me well for 5 years---that's a lot of hiking. for some reason REI doesn't have them on the website, but other stores carry them. One advertises the new Komperdell Trail Lite Titanal Compact pole; "great for hikers that are 5'5" or shorter!" REI and REI Outlet have lots of other choices too.

When is you RtR hike, MES3? We are going in September, also starting at the North Rim.

enzian thanks for the hiking poles tip. I have looked at the Keen Targhee II. Pretty good boot. I'm also looking at the Danner Atitator. It comes in different widths. We are going in early June. We are from the South, so while out there we are also going to Bryce and Zion. We hope to do the Narrows ( river level permitting) and Angels Landing.


mes3

We are staying in the dorms at Phantom Ranch. The description says there is a "bathroom." Is that a multi-person bathroom or a single person bathroom?

Slickabrina, The dorms are good!! Hopefully you d/n have a guest who wants to turn on all the light at the early wake up knock. The bathrooms are single person style. Also, There are other heads out by the pay phones next to the dining hall. We made the trip N.R. to S.R. hike in June. Pack and extra pair of hiking socks to change out if need be. Mole skin and duct tape are great. Your hike down S. Kaibab will be short and steep. We actually met a couple at the N.R. lodge who took the morning shuttle to the S.R. and then came down S. Kaibab and made it for the late dinner. As for water, We used 3L Camelbaks, but d/n top off, till the hike from Cottonwood Campground. Check with the NPS and see if water is available that time of year on the Bright Angel. Indian Gardens and the 1.5 mile Blockhouse may be shut down because of weather. We only used approx. 1-1.5L per water station.As for food, We made Beef Jerkey for our electrolytes and trial mix. We made up packs of Gatorade to mix with our water.
Our family for 4 also stayed 2 nights at PR. On your day off, I reccomend making the hike up N.Kaibab to Ribbon Falls.
Because of heat, we left PR at 5:30a and topped out at the S.R. by 11:15a, before the heat set in. Beause you are hiking earlier in the year, You should not have to leave quite that early.
With my camera gear, my pack weighed in at 18lbs with water. I conditioned with 18 - 20lbs 3-4 times/wk before the hike. The ascent was ok the descent took its toll on our butts. Good luck and take lots of pictures.