denisea

I could have named this lots of different things...Uncommon in the Commonwealth, Pittsburgh should be Hits-burgh...I will start out by saying that I grew up with the thought that Pittsburgh is an industrial, dingy city that I wouldn't want to visit. In fact, for a short time, we thought my dad might be relocated to Pittsburgh and I was a bit worried. But, I was a Steelers fan as a football fan that didn't have a hometown pro team.

Fast forward a few decades and my husband is from the Pittsburgh area. Whattaya know? The year after we got married there was that dust up when Sienna Miller referred to the city as starts with "Sh" and rhymes with Pittsburgh in an article in Rolling Stone. I have kinda hated her since then. Who the heck does she think she is? My first visit was about 14 years ago at Christmas and it was cold, but I liked the city and thought it would be pretty in Spring. We made a few trips back but most were short and not really in Pittsburgh but in Oakmont where "Mr. Starbucks" ( a reference to other trip reports) grew up.

I recently began traveling to Pittsburgh fairly regularly for work and had discovered a few great dining spots. He really began to want to visit the city as a tourist and as a grown up, not looking for cheap beer near the Pitt campus. He also had seen some of the recent changes on a visit a few years ago in the cultural district while visiting for a Steelers game at Heinz field.

We had a family event to attend and decided to stay for the weekend and see what the city has to offer.

Travel via Delta Airlines direct from Atlanta with arrival late on a Thursday night; Ground transportation via Uber; Hotel- Embassy Suites on Smithfield Street downtown

Up front, I will tell you we had a fantastic time. Great hotel, good walking city, great cocktails and wine, wonderful food, nice weather, friendly locals and lots to see. The city has so much to offer culturally!

Kal

Amen, Denisea!

Born just a few miles downriver from "The Confluence" and lived on "the island" until we moved to San Diego, CA in December.
My Dad had to dig the car out of some snow so we could begin our drive to San Diego...when we got to SD we stayed with my cousins for awhile...when they told me it never snows in SD, thought I died and went to heaven! Been in shorts ever since.

As a kid in The Pitt (circa early-mid 50s), I recall our Mom taking us "Dahntahn" to watch a movie and was delighted to actually see BLUE SKY even tho it was fleeting.

Went back in '65 for a cousin's graduation. Went fishing in the Ohio with my cousin and Uncle. He pulled a big ol' fish out of the river. I asked him how he prepares his fish. He said "I throw it back in the river...too polluted to eat". WTH??? While some of the air pollution was gone, the rivers were still not too safe.

Fast forward 20 yrs later, we go back for a wedding. We were driving from the airport to Greensburg and came thru the Ft Pitt Tunnel around 11 pm.
WOW!!!! Just WOW!!! If you ever go to The Pitt, coming into the town thru the Ft Pitt Tunnel is a MUST. Almost like coming thru the Treasure Island Tunnel in SF, or..dare I say it...coming out of the train station in Venice, IT for the first time..

Didn't' go back again until Opening Night of the NFL after the Steelers SB season. 2006. Vs Titans.
The city was so cleaned up....and very active. Running, walking, kayaking, water skiing etc.
Blue skies and green hills....and pretty clean rivers.

2-3 yrs ago we used and outfit named "Bike the GAP" (Great Allegheny Passageway) to plan a trip for us from The Point in downtown Pitt down to Confluence PA along the newly opened GAP bike path. Approx 100 mile bike trip thru some very BEAUTIFUL countryside.

Stops in W. Newton PA at a great BnB (Bright Morning BnB) and then a sweet little old motel in Ohiopyle, PA (Yough Plaza).

We hope to eventually take the GAP to the CnO Canal Towpath and then all the way down to Wash DC. Approx 360 miles.

Fave thing to do in The Pitt....PIEROGIE-PALOOZA!!!! Can't get good quality pierogie out here in No Cal. Pierogie Pizza at Church Brew Co!

Very good restaurants, 4-5* Hotels, and very nice people. We Yinzers have very long fuses so if you are a jagoff, you'll have some time before your arse might get kicked.

Been back the past 4 straight years for Family Reunions and Steelers games. We got The Sports Hat Trcik last trip. Pirates, Pens and Steelers all were there during our stay. Headed back again this Nov (GTG???) and can't wait to come thru the Ft Pitt Tunnel

My born/raised No Calif wife would move back to Pitt in a heartbeat but for a few Winter mos.

I don't know of how many friends who have visited Pitt and all say "NOT what we were expecting at all. It was so nice!". WTH???

I had to Google Sienna Miller, BTW.

gardendiva

My Dad is from just outside of Pittsburgh. My grandfather moved his family to Detroit in the early 40's. We would visit Carnegie almost every year if not more than once. Usually for family events. Two years ago was the first time I had been there in about 25 years. We stayed with family but indicated our desire to go "downtown" for the first time. They all looked like we had 5 heads and found every excuse not to take us, including never knowing which side of the tunnel would be open.

We are planning another trip this fall and I think that we will stay downtown a few days before visiting family.

I did stay downtown just for one night on the way home from Philadelphia. We had just enough time to take the incline and then we had to get on the road. Just the view of the city was exciting. Being raised just outside of Detroit, we were is sort of the same situation as those that lived outside of Pittsburgh. I am happy to say that has changed as much as Pittsburgh has changed.

denisea

I have traveled to Pittsburgh a few times on business and on the last trip discovered a wonderful gastropub called The Commoner. Also on that trip, a client met me for lunch at Smallman Galley in the Strip district and I loved it. We recently caught a glimpse of Meat and Potatoes on the Food Network and thought it looked right up our alley.

We finally got a chance to visit during a family occasion. We arrived late on a Thursday night so we could start the day in the city. We stayed at the Embassy Suites on Smithfield Street downtown.

The hotel is very convenient to many attractions and restaurants. It is fairly new and we got a corner room on the 22nd floor with a nice view. The hotel was nice and quiet. The room was very comfortable and well decorated. I would stay there again in a heartbeat. We did not visit the hotel restaurant or bar. We checked in online and used a digital key, so no need to visit the front desk.

We slept great on our arrival and got up on Friday AM ready for day one of discovering the new Pittsburgh! It was cloudy but comfortable out and we walked to the Hotel Monaco for breakfast at The Commoner.

The space is great and so was breakfast. Western PA omelet and fresh green juice blend for him and an egg white, spinach and tomato omelet for me. Both excellent and we were off.

We walked through Mellon Park with a lovely fountain and a small market on the way to PPG Plaza. The fountains are wonderful and I noticed that the 'burgh has a lot of fountains! I love fountains. Lots of restaurants around PPG Plaza and it is an iconic part of the Pittsburgh skyline.

From there, on to Point State Park. Think of this as a bit of the tour of all the landmarks you would see on a Monday Night Football game when the Steelers are at home! The fountain at the Point is also beautiful! We got there right before a crowd of teenagers showed up! (lucky break) I got my lesson on the Monongahela, Allegheny and Ohio rivers and we walked along the Allegheny and checked out the stadiums (or Mecca if you are a Pittsburgh sports fan).

Also, Picklesburgh was going on this weekend on a bridge...we never made it but it looked fun. We climbed back up to the Main Street level and caught an Uber to pick up a birthday gift at Ross Park Mall. Nice mall and our sales person recommended Union Standard for lunch. Gift purchased and an Uber to Union Standard.

Lunch was a spit roasted turkey club homemade bread for me and a lamb patty melt with fries and "marrownaise" for him. Both really excellent.

We trekked back to the hotel to clean up before a family gathering at Oakmont Country Club, where my husband caddied as a teenager (and unfortunately when everyone had those huge leather tour bags).

I grew up watching Arnold Palmer and Jack Nicklaus play golf because my dad was a terrific golfer and fan of both men, so, visiting there is so cool and I wish he could have gone there at some point to see all the US Open memorabilia that line the halls of the clubhouse. I think my favorite was a few of the cigarette butts from Angel Cabrera and his US Open win. We remember watching him nervously puffing away before finally finishing for the championship.

The late afternoon and night it rained like cats and dogs. After the party, we made our way back to....you guessed it, The Commoner. A nightcap where we started the day seemed like a great idea. The bartender was excellent and we chatted with him for a while. I had Rose and a Chaz had their Manhattan. They age the Manhattans in Wigle (local whiskey distillery) barrels and is then put on tap. The bartender let me sample a different a Rose and gave me a half glass while Chaz tried a Sazerac. Guess that means we had two nightcaps...turns out we needed them.

You know how things look different at night? It was pouring when we left and we listened to the doorman at the Hotel Monaco who told us to turn right. Well, we should have turned left. By the time we realized the mistake, we were soaked like drowned rats (sharing on an umbrella in a flood doesn't work, kids). Not the best way to end the night but we had a fun day, despite the soggy ending.

NorthwestMale

I spent a couple of nights in Pittsburgh many years ago, almost exclusively as the result of football allegiance, and I found the whole place to be quite pleasant and enjoyable. I would prefer the lore of Three Rivers Stadium to the modern Heinz Field but I say that as somebody who has never been inside either one.

The city was wonderfully walkable, and if hockey had been my thing, the Penguins' arena was just a block or two from my hotel and extremely visible out my window.

There was some market/bazaar/shopping area across the water, and not far from Heinz Field, which had more memorabilia and football lore for sale than most towns will ever have, and I had to buy a Terrible Towel among other things.

So list me with those who would encourage would-be visitors to Pittsburgh.

jayne1973

I fell in love with Pittsburgh in 2015 when we spent a couple of nights there on a historic amusement park themed trip that included Kennywood. The city reminded me of a cross between Austin and San Francisco. Hope to return!

denisea

OMG - my husband went to Kennywood all the time growing up.

NorthwestMale, the market area you went to may have been the Strip district. Grocery, markets, restaurants, and lots of places to get Pittsburgh teams gear.

denisea

Saturday morning was summer heaven. Gorgeous, sunny and cool (after the torrential rain the night before)! We just wanted to get going so decided against a sit-down breakfast.

We made a mistake as we always do on every trip by not having a solid breakfast plan. We did sleep in a little and planned to finally make to the Warhol museum. We tried to get there several years ago but got interrupted and just didn't get to it.

Well, we thought we would find breakfast along the way...just a quick muffin or something on the way. Uh, no.

We got to the Warhol and only passed a Subway that was open for breakfast. I found a place called Priory Pastries on Yelp not too far away and we were off. The area is Deutschtown and a bit run down but we were starving! We finally got there and chose a few things...an orange scone, donut, cinnamon roll and danish. Good, not great. By then, we didn't care.

Back to the Warhol.

If you are in Pittsburgh, go. It is excellent. For me a vaguely knew who Andy Warhol was growing up (but barely). Not sure anyone I grew up around was very progressive and probably not Warhol fans.

Visiting the museum was a bit of a trip down pop culture memory lane. I am always amazed at how someone can be so creative and so ahead of their time. I think Andy Warhol definitely was!

You start at the top from his family and childhood and work your way down through the years. I did not know that he started as a commercial illustrator. The museum does a great job at showing some of the techniques he used to create work quickly.

You see the soup cans and Coke bottles, that amazing Elvis sequence, Jackie Kennedy, Mick Jagger, the Brillo boxes, Debbie Harry, Marilyn Monroe (the amount of Marilyn memorabilia he collected was staggering), Elizabeth Taylor, the self-portraits, too much to list here.

I found it so interesting. I didn't know he survived a gunshot (was declared dead at the hospital but brought back although it impacted his health the rest of his life). I forgot he had an MTV show for awhile and how quickly he accepted new media and ideas. I didn't realize how young he was when he died.

There is too much to write here. There is a film that is excellent that is shown on the ground floor that sums it all up very well.

We both really enjoyed the Warhol. I don't come out of every museum excited about it but I did this time. A+!

Next up, lunch at Smallman Galley. This place is an incubator for new chefs/restaurants and hosts 4 stalls that give new chefs a place to gain a following. You just order at the counter you are interested in and there is communal seating and a bar that faces the stalls. The stalls had new chefs from the time I had been previously but we both were immediately drawn to Iron Born pizza.

Red (red sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni) for him and white (mozzarella, roasted grape tomatoes, arugula, and fresh ricotta) for me. An IPA for him and Rose for me. Amazingly bubbly when it comes out of the oven. It comes in a rectangle shape, a thick but airy and chewy crust....so good.

The pizza was excellent and we shoulda shared (you'll note a theme with us that more is better)! But, then we wouldn't have been able to try two kinds. We visited Penn Mac....I love to gawk at the cheese counter there. The Strip was busy since the weather was so great. Lots of people out and lots of Steeler and Penguins gear. #PittsburghProud

From there, we took an Uber to the Pitt campus to the Cathedral of Learning. We got there and saw lots of orientation groups and moms and dads with kids heading to college. Those were the days.

We visited the Nationality rooms...we did not take a tour or use the audio guide. The rooms are unique and were built to recognize the cultures of the people that settled in Allegheny County. Some are very ornate and others are not. The Chinese room is spectacular with a gorgeous golden dragon in the center of the ceiling! The German room was also pretty with stained glass windows....we visited the Norwegian, Lithuanian, Russian, Greek, Italian, Romanian and Irish rooms. They really are worth a visit. My college had nothing like this.

We really should have visited the Carnegie Art Museum and Museum of Natural History but Chaz' knee was hurting (torn meniscus) and we decided that a late afternoon nap would do him some good.

A nap and shower and a change of clothes and we were off again. The day was too gorgeous to stay inside for too long. We tried the rooftop bar at Il Tetto on Penn Avenue but it was packed and standing room only...I wasn't feeling it. We left immediately and headed across the street to Le Lyonnaise and sat outside there. A carafe of Rose and a warm goat cheese appetizer with honey was amazing. We could not believe our good fortune with the weather.

A quick walk to Meat and Potatoes for our dinner. The place was very busy. Chaz got a Vieux Carre to start and I got Champagne. No appetizers, we knew we had to try the rib eye for two. We chose Brussels sprouts and potato wedges for sides.

The steak lived up to the hype...cooked perfectly. It's huge...very Flintstones like.
The sides were also excellent but again too much food but we knew that when we ordered! Chaz tried some Absinthe (he has really been interested in this and they have a selection at Meat and Potatoes). Not for me (but I hate anything with that flavor profile)! He liked it and was glad he sampled it. He did not see any green fairies.

We did share a small but excellent whipped cheesecake thing with fresh strawberries in the center...served in a jar. Just enough for dessert after that huge meal. The strawberries were so good...not those awful hothouse grown, flavorless things you get in the grocery store. I usually don't get excited about anything cheesecake related but this was soooo good.

We were tired, full and happy and walked back to the Embassy Suites. This time with no rain and no wrong turn on the way back to the hotel.

tuscanlifeedit

This is such a nice report to read. I have spent my life here, almost always inside the city limits, and you did most of what I like to show guests.

About the Nationality Rooms at Pitt: I had many classes in those rooms. Many of them are gorgeous, but also fairly uncomfortable. Not built for students to sit in for long classes.

denisea

Tuscanlife...had no idea that you are in the ' burgh area (dare I say a Yinzer)?! There is a little more report to come. I can inagine the Nationality rooms may not be the greatest for class but still love the uniqueness. Mr Starbucks went to Pitt but didn't have classes in the Nationality rooms. We really had the best time...maybe we can get a drink when we are in Pittsburgh again!

tuscanlifeedit

denisea, I'd love to see you here! I am a Yinzer to the core. Born in the West End, where my mother still lives. Raised there, lived in Squirrel Hill and now in Beechview, across from the backside of Mt Washington. I can speak Pittsburghese as well as Pittsburgh Dad.

http://pghdad.com/

Kal, the phrase "The Pitt" is foreign to me, but I have been known to ask for a glass of melk. Yinz want choclat melk?

denisea

Mr Starbucks is an avid Pittsburgh Dad fan! It is so funny especially if you understand Pittsburghese and follow the teams. Always fun to watch the episodes that come out during football season.

The Pitt was foreign to us....it's always been the 'Burgh for short in our world.

Kal

Whaaa...I should have said Da Burgh'? :-?

I probably got that habit because most of my neanderthal Oakland Raiders fan pals liked to call it "Pixburgh" so I would emphasize The Pitt.

http://www.pittsburghese.com/glossar...l?type=phrases


As an "Artist child of the 60s" I loved loved loved The Warhol Museum.
Forgot all about some of the other stuff he did, esp with film.

The Heinz History Museum is also a must see. Still haven't seen everything there because I spend most my time in their West PA Sports Museum section.

But there is a tremendous amount of US history that flowed thru The Confluence that I had all but forgotten.
Pitt was more of a Gateway to the West than St Louis, IMHYO.

Also loved the Ft Pitt Museum. Pretty cool how they still have the outlines of the old forts at The Point.

If you are a real Yinzer baseball fan, The Roberto Clemente Museum in the old firehouse is a MUST! While we were waiting for the doors to open for our tour I told my wife "I hope I don't cry". Damn...maybe made it 10 mins before thoughts of Roberto, my Dad and Uncles came to mind.

PLUS....there is a winery in the basement!!!! Some good reds, believe it or not.

We also liked how they redeveloped The Southside (Carson Ave) but old farts like me get outta there by 9pm. ��
The other redeveloped area we enjoyed was The Southside Works. Nice shopping, eating and just watching the river flow under the Hot Metal Bridge.

If you're a runner/walker it seems like Pitt has some sort of event going from April thru Nov.
After doing the 100 mile bike ride, The Lovely Mrs Kal allowed me one day of Iron City, Yuengling and Fat Head consumption (ie CARB LOADING) before we did The Great Race. Thank goodness by time we were aware of it all of the 10k slots were filled so we did the 5k. PHEW!

A BEAUTIFUL event!
We started near the Pitt campus and walked all the way dahn to The Point. Started right at daybreak so the sunrise was awesome.

As for hotels, we have stayed at The Marriott City Center 2x.
In my "other life" I did a lot of traveling and the service we received from EVERY single employee there each time was above and beyond. Usually there are maybe 1 or 2 cranky employees at any business, but each visit the service was A-1. I even wrote an email to Corporate.

Before they developed Station Square we stayed at The Station Sq Sheraton. I'd get up early, grab a coffee and a nosh and go sit on the old train platform and watch the city come to life.

We have also stayed at the old Hilton/Wyndham Grand 2x and the rooms with views down the river were also unbelievable.
Walking distance to Heinz Field and PNC Park.
As for being CLOSE to PNC and Heinz, we stayed at The Residence Inn Marriott 2yrs ago. fall out the front door at you are at the entrance of PNC. Short stagger to Heinz and the sports bar at Rivers Casino.

The past 2 stays we got the Westin Convention Center. Another great location and nice hotel. About a 10 min walk to the original Primanti's.

For this Nov, I saved my lunch money so we can finally stay at The Omni Wm. Penn.
One of the nicest lobbies in a hotel I have seen.

GTG at the Wm Penn in Nov?
I had the great pleasure of meeting up with the lovely "steelersfan" on several occasions but due to family commitments, didn't the last trip.

denisea......man oh. man I can wait for Nov. Sorry if I went overboard in my comments but yah gotta love that city.
Thx for "da Bug about Da Burgh".

denisea

Sunday AM also started with gorgeous weather again!

And back to The Commoner for brunch. I tried the buckwheat waffle with charred peaches and citrus mascarpone. For Chaz, all excellent and the servers were also great.

The Duquesne incline was up first, gorgeous weather and we wanted to get there early before the crowds. We Uber'd over but found that having cash is not enough. They want exact change. Twenty dollars worth $1 coins ---not so fun but we bought round trip tickets and headed up Mt Washington. The view is really great and with the great weather we got some great photos of The Point, the stadiums, etc...we walked around at the top but did not stay long. We decided that we would go back to the hotel, store our bags and head to Phipps Conservatory.

Our Uber driver told us about the Clemente museum. So, that is something we weren't going to get to but are sorry to have missed on this trip.

Bags stored and off to Phipps Conservatory. This is a don't miss! We purchased tickets online that morning and showed the email once we got there...very simple process.

We had beautiful sunny weather but Phipps would light up a gray day, for sure.

There are amazing Chihuly-like glass sculptures throughout. There is a Japanese style garden which was perfect for Mr. Starbucks as he is kinda obsessed with Japanese maples. The orchids are amazing and we connected to that because a dear friend grows them and used to give them away to us every time we went to his house (he had over 400 plants).

We got some grown up libations in the rainforest section and hung out by a waterfall for awhile. The butterfly garden is terrific and not to be missed. There was one area that was closed due to a private party but we spent lots of time there. The outdoor gardens were in bloom with summer hydrangeas every where. We stopped in the cafe for iced tea and coffee. The cafe is highly recommended by Food and Wine magazine and has a great menu.

We decided that we would skip the Carnegie museums this time but wanted to walk over to Soldiers and Sailors. As we walked up, I realized no one was coming in or out and we realized...closed on Sunday. Well, that's that.

We Uber'd back to downtown for a late lunch and last cocktail before the airport. We were going to try Talia but it was also closed on Sunday, That left us back at The Commoner. I got a steak and eggs that were top notch. Chaz got the burger. I had a Tommy Collins---one of the best cocktails ever. They make a long ice cube of watermelon and fresno pepper, and the drink is vodka, lemon, and soda. Perfect summer drink. Chaz got an old fashioned---also tasty.

I also love that they have a drink called Moonwalk that comes with a little photo of Michael Jackson attached with a tiny close pin.

If you can't tell, we love The Commoner!

Finally, it was time to head home. Our flight home was delayed but we did get a first class upgrade home and we ended up in Atlanta not too much later than we expected.

We did get locked out of our house by the dog sitter (accidentally) but our neighbor helped us get in without too much trouble. (The neighbor is from Pittsburgh...and we have lots of yinzers in the Atlanta area).

We both enjoyed Pittsburgh so much. We will be looking for a reason to go back soon. If you have never been, go! If you haven't been in awhile, go back. There is a lot to do and I am impressed with the variety and quality of the world class attractions. I love my hometown, Memphis, but I told Chaz...your hometown is better than my hometown.

Kal

The Commoner is a 3 min walk from Wm Penn acc to Google....guess what place will be on my list now?
Thx!

denisea

Yep - they are essentially next door neighbors, cross the street and you are there.

denisea

While we are at it...The Dahntahn Song is always worth a listen and laugh.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADyXkIFn-I8

tuscanlifeedit

Kal, the guy with the old firehouse, winery, and Clemente Museum is someone I sort of know.

We actually hosted a party for a mutual friend in a former space of his, and we were in the same print making class with him a few years ago. I think I could step on him today and he wouldn't recognize me.

Nevertheless, he is an interesting guy. Not particularly friendly, warm or modest but an interesting guy.

Denisea, thanks for the great report.

I'll see yinz guys dahntahn.

denisea

Will ping you next time we are there!

jayne1973

Love that video, denisea! What a fun town!