Pacific coast and Whales
Mar 9th, 2010, 07:04 AM
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Pacific coast and Whales
HI
We are going on a looong RV trip this Aug and Sep, starting seattle, up to vancouver and candian rockies, and down to Glaciar, yellowstone, Utah, San Diego and maybe up to Yosmite.
My question - where would be the best place to:
(a) enjoy the rugged pacific coast and rain forest?
(b) watch whales
should we do it at Olympic Parc? Tofino? Seattle? Vancouver? down in California??
thx
We are going on a looong RV trip this Aug and Sep, starting seattle, up to vancouver and candian rockies, and down to Glaciar, yellowstone, Utah, San Diego and maybe up to Yosmite.
My question - where would be the best place to:
(a) enjoy the rugged pacific coast and rain forest?
(b) watch whales
should we do it at Olympic Parc? Tofino? Seattle? Vancouver? down in California??
thx
Mar 9th, 2010, 08:27 PM
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We spent a few days on Vancouver Island in September, most of the time on the Pacific coast. Stayed in a lovely B&B in Ucluelet very close to Wild Pacific Trail and were just as happy we were in Ucluelet after going to Tofino for lunch and to look around one day. Took a wildlife cruise on the Archipelago out of Ucluelet on the recommendation of numerous Fodorites and were glad we chose that one - nice owners, nice boat, and they really searched to insure that we found some whales and a bear. Saw many seals and eagles, a few humpback whales, and the bear. Also spent a [rainy] day in the Pacific Rim park and could have spent another if we'd had time. The central and western part of the island were beautiful.
We also spent a few days on San Juan Island before going to Vancouver and didn't find it anything like as beautiful. We did see some orca from the shore at the American Camp but very far out. We didn't take a whale watching trip from San Juan and I don't know how successful they are at finding the orca pods. We did see a fin whale (think they said it was a fin) - on one ferry trip and on another we saw a couple of Dall's porpoises. Occasionally they see orca on the ferries.
The trip was originally planned in part to get back to Olympic National Park again but since we were going to be on San Juan, close to Vancouver Is., we decided to go there instead and I'm glad we did. We will go back sometime and revisit Olympic National Park, which is also beautiful, (and maybe the coast, though Oregon seems to have a more attractive coast than the southern Washington coast I've seen). We would also love to go back to Vancouver Island again, maybe for a week next time. Wouldn't bother with San Juan again and probably wouldn't visit any of the other WA islands since we were not greatly impressed with San Juan (or Whidbey on a slow drive back to Seattle). It's been over 10 years since we were on the BC mainland but I don't recall the coast there as being as nice as on Vancouver Is. (But there was a lot of fog, maybe couldn't see as well.)
You have my favorite park on your agenda - Yellowstone.
We also spent a few days on San Juan Island before going to Vancouver and didn't find it anything like as beautiful. We did see some orca from the shore at the American Camp but very far out. We didn't take a whale watching trip from San Juan and I don't know how successful they are at finding the orca pods. We did see a fin whale (think they said it was a fin) - on one ferry trip and on another we saw a couple of Dall's porpoises. Occasionally they see orca on the ferries.
The trip was originally planned in part to get back to Olympic National Park again but since we were going to be on San Juan, close to Vancouver Is., we decided to go there instead and I'm glad we did. We will go back sometime and revisit Olympic National Park, which is also beautiful, (and maybe the coast, though Oregon seems to have a more attractive coast than the southern Washington coast I've seen). We would also love to go back to Vancouver Island again, maybe for a week next time. Wouldn't bother with San Juan again and probably wouldn't visit any of the other WA islands since we were not greatly impressed with San Juan (or Whidbey on a slow drive back to Seattle). It's been over 10 years since we were on the BC mainland but I don't recall the coast there as being as nice as on Vancouver Is. (But there was a lot of fog, maybe couldn't see as well.)
You have my favorite park on your agenda - Yellowstone.
Mar 10th, 2010, 02:20 AM
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Try a whale watch trip out of Monterey Bay. This is a beautiful area: Big Sur, Monterey, Carmel.
Carmel is touristy town and a bit chic.
Monterey is a medium size touristy city and more down to earth than Carmel. It is known for its superb aquarium. Many Californians go here for whale watch tours and for scuba diving in the giant kelp beds. Monterey used to be home to a thriving sardine canning industry, but the sardines are long gone.
Big Sur is a stunning wilderness area with sparse development, where high cliffs meet the sea. For me, one of the most beautiful places on earth.
You can also go whale watching out of San Francisco. The non-profit Oceanic Society leads trips to the Farallon Islands, which are 27 miles offshore. In August-September, if you are lucky, you might see humpbacks, and maybe some blue, gray and fin whales. Usually you see a lot of dolphins and porpoises as well, and sea birds, such as black footed albatrosses, guillemots, auklets, and tufted puffins. The sea can be rough, seasickness pills are a must, but the trip is interesting. You pass right under the Golden Gate Bridge and then out past the headlands to the open ocean.
The whales come to the Farallon Islands to feed on the abundant krill. But this is an El Nino year, so conditions might be different this year. If there is little krill, the whales will go elsewhere.
http://www.oceanicsociety.org/farallon
As your trip approaches, you might check the above site for recent sightings.
Carmel is touristy town and a bit chic.
Monterey is a medium size touristy city and more down to earth than Carmel. It is known for its superb aquarium. Many Californians go here for whale watch tours and for scuba diving in the giant kelp beds. Monterey used to be home to a thriving sardine canning industry, but the sardines are long gone.
Big Sur is a stunning wilderness area with sparse development, where high cliffs meet the sea. For me, one of the most beautiful places on earth.
You can also go whale watching out of San Francisco. The non-profit Oceanic Society leads trips to the Farallon Islands, which are 27 miles offshore. In August-September, if you are lucky, you might see humpbacks, and maybe some blue, gray and fin whales. Usually you see a lot of dolphins and porpoises as well, and sea birds, such as black footed albatrosses, guillemots, auklets, and tufted puffins. The sea can be rough, seasickness pills are a must, but the trip is interesting. You pass right under the Golden Gate Bridge and then out past the headlands to the open ocean.
The whales come to the Farallon Islands to feed on the abundant krill. But this is an El Nino year, so conditions might be different this year. If there is little krill, the whales will go elsewhere.
http://www.oceanicsociety.org/farallon
As your trip approaches, you might check the above site for recent sightings.
Mar 10th, 2010, 12:28 PM
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I don't think we have whales in August in September near Monterey. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the whales are only pass through during their migration which takes place in late fall and then again in the spring.
Mar 10th, 2010, 01:11 PM
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The Olympic Peninsula has some different features than Tofino, so here goes. Hurricane Ridge, in the Olympic National Park is awesome.
http://www.nps.gov/olym/index.htm
Ask the rangers about the trail where you can see Victoria to the north and glaciated snow capped mountains, like the alps to the south. (forget the name - thought it was Windy Hill but can't find it on their maps)
The rest of the park is also lovely. That said, I would not suggest you miss Tofino if you have the time.
So, I'd suggest you start in Seattle, as planned; go to Olympic National Park and see at least Hurricane Ridge, then, either visit more of the Park or take the ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria and go to Tofino. You can catch a whale watching boat in Victoria. Otherwise, you'll be lucky if you see much.
From there, go to Vancouver and to Banff National Park in Canada. If you spend time there, you can pass on Glacier and go directly to Yellowstone and spend more time there.
I hope you have a LOT of time for this. Wow! So, visit Mesa Verde in Colorado and see the Cliff Dwellings; go to Monument Valley and then to the Grand Canyon. Skip Utah. Go to San Diego from there. If you have time, the California coastline and Rt 1 is lovely. But how much time did you say you have again?
Of course, the BC coast is similar to the WA coast. There are rainforests, lots of big green trees, sandy coves. I think the Washington Coast, in the park, has more rugged peaks, rocks jutting out of the water, and cliffs. But Tofino is really an interesting town, with great food, interesting art, lots of European travelers, lovely trails including one through a dwarf forest (in a bog with strange soil that stunts the growth), broad flat beaches.
http://www.nps.gov/olym/index.htm
Ask the rangers about the trail where you can see Victoria to the north and glaciated snow capped mountains, like the alps to the south. (forget the name - thought it was Windy Hill but can't find it on their maps)
The rest of the park is also lovely. That said, I would not suggest you miss Tofino if you have the time.
So, I'd suggest you start in Seattle, as planned; go to Olympic National Park and see at least Hurricane Ridge, then, either visit more of the Park or take the ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria and go to Tofino. You can catch a whale watching boat in Victoria. Otherwise, you'll be lucky if you see much.
From there, go to Vancouver and to Banff National Park in Canada. If you spend time there, you can pass on Glacier and go directly to Yellowstone and spend more time there.
I hope you have a LOT of time for this. Wow! So, visit Mesa Verde in Colorado and see the Cliff Dwellings; go to Monument Valley and then to the Grand Canyon. Skip Utah. Go to San Diego from there. If you have time, the California coastline and Rt 1 is lovely. But how much time did you say you have again?
Of course, the BC coast is similar to the WA coast. There are rainforests, lots of big green trees, sandy coves. I think the Washington Coast, in the park, has more rugged peaks, rocks jutting out of the water, and cliffs. But Tofino is really an interesting town, with great food, interesting art, lots of European travelers, lovely trails including one through a dwarf forest (in a bog with strange soil that stunts the growth), broad flat beaches.
Mar 10th, 2010, 05:44 PM
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Hi Orca and all, thx for the great advice.
we have total of two months for everything. i dont think i have time for both Tofino and Olympic. we defintly want the rugged out door more than the european town (our kids dont really get the "quaint little town" thing...actually - neither does DH...)
so if i understand correctly, for the rugged rainforest ONP is better? and than go to Victoria for the whale watching?
does that make sense??
we have total of two months for everything. i dont think i have time for both Tofino and Olympic. we defintly want the rugged out door more than the european town (our kids dont really get the "quaint little town" thing...actually - neither does DH...)
so if i understand correctly, for the rugged rainforest ONP is better? and than go to Victoria for the whale watching?
does that make sense??
Mar 10th, 2010, 06:27 PM
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Tofino is pretty remote, actually, and is right next to a Canadian national park with rain forests and lots of trails. There are lots of very isolated places to stay on empty beaches. You can go bear watching from Tofino. It's amazing. The bears come to the waters edge to turn rocks over and eat. The boats get really close (like 10 ft). Don't know how old your kids are, but we old folks were wowed by it, so I think kids would be suitably impressed. You can also go kayaking at Tofino to an island with rain forests and walk the trails. You kayak by bald eagle nests. Tofino is pretty cool. I'd recommend it over the WA coast, if you have to pick. You have the time.
Also you can stop in Coombs BC and see "goats on a roof" between Tofino and the ferry at Nanaimo to Vancouver. The kids would love this tourist trap and you will too.
You could go from Seattle to Victoria in one day, and still visit Olympic National Park and see Hurricane Ridge on the same day. You'd just skip the beach part.
You will see amazing mts if you go to Banff. Banff is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Do NOT miss Banff.
You've got your RV so you can play it by ear and stay where you want, when you want, right? Or do the parks fill up? Do you need advance reservations? That would be too bad!
What a fantastic amt of time you have! I think I'd throw in Santa Fe NM. It's lovely and very sw. How old are the kids?
I once went on a 3 wk roadtrip camping. It was so great. We went from Chicago and drove straight to Yellowstone via the Badlands and Wall Drug (another great tourist trap). Went to Glacier NP, Mt. Rainier, Seattle, WA coast and Hoh rain forest, Portland, redwoods, to SF. I then flew back. It was the most amazing trip in my life. Mt. Rainier and Glacier blew my socks off, they were so beautiful. (Banff is like Glacier only much bigger) When I saw Seattle and Portland, I said, I have to move here! I applied for jobs in Seattle, Portland and threw in Juneau Alaska, too. I didn't get any nibbles. 22 years later, we moved to the PNW and have been here for 21 years now. It is so beautiful. You will have the vacation of a lifetime visiting the big parks.
Also you can stop in Coombs BC and see "goats on a roof" between Tofino and the ferry at Nanaimo to Vancouver. The kids would love this tourist trap and you will too.
You could go from Seattle to Victoria in one day, and still visit Olympic National Park and see Hurricane Ridge on the same day. You'd just skip the beach part.
You will see amazing mts if you go to Banff. Banff is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Do NOT miss Banff.
You've got your RV so you can play it by ear and stay where you want, when you want, right? Or do the parks fill up? Do you need advance reservations? That would be too bad!
What a fantastic amt of time you have! I think I'd throw in Santa Fe NM. It's lovely and very sw. How old are the kids?
I once went on a 3 wk roadtrip camping. It was so great. We went from Chicago and drove straight to Yellowstone via the Badlands and Wall Drug (another great tourist trap). Went to Glacier NP, Mt. Rainier, Seattle, WA coast and Hoh rain forest, Portland, redwoods, to SF. I then flew back. It was the most amazing trip in my life. Mt. Rainier and Glacier blew my socks off, they were so beautiful. (Banff is like Glacier only much bigger) When I saw Seattle and Portland, I said, I have to move here! I applied for jobs in Seattle, Portland and threw in Juneau Alaska, too. I didn't get any nibbles. 22 years later, we moved to the PNW and have been here for 21 years now. It is so beautiful. You will have the vacation of a lifetime visiting the big parks.
Mar 10th, 2010, 08:06 PM
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Depoe Bay Oregon has a pod of resident whales that stay all season so good chance to see whales there. Have you seen movie "One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest?" Do you remember the escape from the mental hospital where they all went deep sea fishing? Well that was filmed at the tiny harbor in Depoe Bay - of course you need to go out in a boat to view them -
The wales I have seen here don't seem so playful - have never seen one breach- just short views of tails or backs or seeing them blow - but still thrilling when you see one.
The wales I have seen here don't seem so playful - have never seen one breach- just short views of tails or backs or seeing them blow - but still thrilling when you see one.
Mar 11th, 2010, 05:24 AM
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wow - orca - thanks for the detailed answer. i just cant make up my mind what to do.
i have convinced my self last night to go with ONP and do the ShiShi beach - there is an RV park down there too, and there you go and making me want to try for the Pacific Rim again... i am really looking for the wild beach part here (that why Hurricane ridge doesnt sound that exciting considering we have the rockies next)
Banff (and Jasper and Yoho)is OF COURSE on our list. are you saying that if we do Banff we should skip Glacier? i was planning on the "driving to the Sun" and all that??
BTW - kids are 2,6,9,13
I already know i won't want to leave. but believe it or not - i am actually a desert person so i'm dreaming of UTAH - hahaha
thx sunbum - but i am afraid we will have to skip Oragon beach (becuz of yellowstone)...
i have convinced my self last night to go with ONP and do the ShiShi beach - there is an RV park down there too, and there you go and making me want to try for the Pacific Rim again... i am really looking for the wild beach part here (that why Hurricane ridge doesnt sound that exciting considering we have the rockies next)
Banff (and Jasper and Yoho)is OF COURSE on our list. are you saying that if we do Banff we should skip Glacier? i was planning on the "driving to the Sun" and all that??
BTW - kids are 2,6,9,13
I already know i won't want to leave. but believe it or not - i am actually a desert person so i'm dreaming of UTAH - hahaha
thx sunbum - but i am afraid we will have to skip Oragon beach (becuz of yellowstone)...
Mar 11th, 2010, 09:19 AM
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One of the reasons I suggest Tofino is because it is really hard to get to. You can go to the Olympic peninsula very easily from Seattle. It is unlikely you'll get another chance to go to Tofino. It's a sort of destination place, whereas people usually drive through the OP, particularly the coastal area. This is partly due to lack of accomodations, but you have an RV, so that is not a problem. Tofino is more developed, with outfitters, and has bays to kayak in - so lots of outdoor rec opportunities. ONP is more rustic, even if not as remote a location. Maybe you could do a post asking for people's opinions specifically on this choice, explaining what you are looking for, and see what others say. There are places to canoe on the OP - lakes and such, and the Hoh rain forest is wonderful. If you do the OP instead, you may want to stay a few days to explore it.
Glacier is really great, but Banff is very similar topography, imho. However, they are different, of course. I guess it depends on how much time you have. The "Going to the Sun" hwy in Glacier is completely jaw-dropping spectacular and I can't remember another place like it in Banff. You drive on the side of the steep cliffs. In Banff, you drive in Valleys, more. But you hike into them and can drive to locations in basins. Again, it would be an interesting post, asking about the differences, and to see if people think you should go to both. Ditto Banff and Jasper. We never made it to Jasper, not for lack of wanting to go, but for lack of time. We found there was more than enough to do in Banff, so decided not to continue to Jasper. We knew it would be different, but it wasn't as though we had seen everything in Banff and we wanted to focus in and not drive as much.
What Hurricane Ridge has to offer that is different is the view from that one trail, to the north, overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca - from about a mile high to the sea, what seems like a straight drop right in front of you...with a 2 yr old and a 6 yr old, I don't know how much hiking you will really do.
Be sure you have good guide books whereever you go. We took the Michelin green guide to Banff, and discovered Parker Ridge (which was marked in the book "Worth the trip," I believe, but we'd have driven right by otherwise). It was a relatively steep but short hike up (would be fun with the 2 yr old and you'd hear complaints from the 6 yr old), but from the top it was fabulous. You look out over a valley with a glacier licking into it (maybe not anymore with the glaciers retreating), eagles flying below and sheep on the hillsides. Spectacular. It is off of the Icefields Pkway, another must see. When we were there, the glacier was really close to the road and you took snowcats on it. Now, I dunno. It's probably miles away. You see the glaciers retreating like crazy around here.
Glacier is really great, but Banff is very similar topography, imho. However, they are different, of course. I guess it depends on how much time you have. The "Going to the Sun" hwy in Glacier is completely jaw-dropping spectacular and I can't remember another place like it in Banff. You drive on the side of the steep cliffs. In Banff, you drive in Valleys, more. But you hike into them and can drive to locations in basins. Again, it would be an interesting post, asking about the differences, and to see if people think you should go to both. Ditto Banff and Jasper. We never made it to Jasper, not for lack of wanting to go, but for lack of time. We found there was more than enough to do in Banff, so decided not to continue to Jasper. We knew it would be different, but it wasn't as though we had seen everything in Banff and we wanted to focus in and not drive as much.
What Hurricane Ridge has to offer that is different is the view from that one trail, to the north, overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca - from about a mile high to the sea, what seems like a straight drop right in front of you...with a 2 yr old and a 6 yr old, I don't know how much hiking you will really do.
Be sure you have good guide books whereever you go. We took the Michelin green guide to Banff, and discovered Parker Ridge (which was marked in the book "Worth the trip," I believe, but we'd have driven right by otherwise). It was a relatively steep but short hike up (would be fun with the 2 yr old and you'd hear complaints from the 6 yr old), but from the top it was fabulous. You look out over a valley with a glacier licking into it (maybe not anymore with the glaciers retreating), eagles flying below and sheep on the hillsides. Spectacular. It is off of the Icefields Pkway, another must see. When we were there, the glacier was really close to the road and you took snowcats on it. Now, I dunno. It's probably miles away. You see the glaciers retreating like crazy around here.
Mar 13th, 2010, 10:57 PM
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Hi November Moon. Since you asked, California has two whale watch seasons. The grey whales are best seen migrating through in winter/early spring. While the humpbacks and blues come to feed on krill during summer/early autumn.
I have gone whale watching with the Oceanic Society from San Francisco out to the Farallon Islands about nine times, always in September or early October. Have seen many humpbacks, sometimes as many as 30 on one trip. On occasion they come up to the boat--but this is rare. On my first trip to the islands, a female whale and her calf and their male whale escort surrounded our boat, staying with us for about 40 minutes. She even rubbed against the boat. She was so close, we could smell her potently fishy mouth! On that first trip, we also saw a great white shark attack a sea lion.
I have seen blue whales on about half the trips I have been on. On my last trip out to the islands, last summer, I saw about a dozen humpbacks, and a blue and fin whale together.
I have also been grey whale watching out of Bodega Bay in spring, and it was disappointing. The few migrating grey whales that we saw seemed to be in a hurry, the sea was rough, the air was extremely cold, and the winds blasted us.
Cordell Banks, though, which is farther out from Bodega Bay, is considered one of California's best whale watching spots.
If you are interested in learning more, here is the link:
http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/wildlife/welcome.html
As I said before, this is an El Nino year, so conditions might not be a favorable for seeing whales.
I have gone whale watching with the Oceanic Society from San Francisco out to the Farallon Islands about nine times, always in September or early October. Have seen many humpbacks, sometimes as many as 30 on one trip. On occasion they come up to the boat--but this is rare. On my first trip to the islands, a female whale and her calf and their male whale escort surrounded our boat, staying with us for about 40 minutes. She even rubbed against the boat. She was so close, we could smell her potently fishy mouth! On that first trip, we also saw a great white shark attack a sea lion.
I have seen blue whales on about half the trips I have been on. On my last trip out to the islands, last summer, I saw about a dozen humpbacks, and a blue and fin whale together.
I have also been grey whale watching out of Bodega Bay in spring, and it was disappointing. The few migrating grey whales that we saw seemed to be in a hurry, the sea was rough, the air was extremely cold, and the winds blasted us.
Cordell Banks, though, which is farther out from Bodega Bay, is considered one of California's best whale watching spots.
If you are interested in learning more, here is the link:
http://cordellbank.noaa.gov/wildlife/welcome.html
As I said before, this is an El Nino year, so conditions might not be a favorable for seeing whales.
Mar 15th, 2010, 12:18 PM
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We had a great whale watching trip from San Juan Island off the coast of Washington. We were really lucky and saw 2 pods of Orcas that day. The Orcas are great to watch. They were very playful. We also saw eagles and porpoises. Much smaller boats than are typical on the east coast.
Mar 16th, 2010, 06:49 PM
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The orca whales are beautifully abundant in the summer months so I would highly encourage you to go whale watching during your road trip and the San Juan Island are definately the place to see them. There are three local killer whale pods that can be seen from shore (sometimes and farther away)and there are boats that go out daily to view the whales. I would say if you want to see whales go on a boat...for sure. San Juan Excursions is a great company to go with. Whatever company you choose make sure they are with the whale watching association. Have fun and enjoy the country side.
Mar 16th, 2010, 07:21 PM
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Which whales? the Orcas are wonderful to see. You can track where they are seem on this website:
http://www.orcanetwork.org/
http://www.orcanetwork.org/
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