Overdue report of our trip to USA which so many of you helped with.....
May 21st, 2012, 05:09 AM
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Overdue report of our trip to USA which so many of you helped with.....
TRIP REPORT USA MEXICO
Who went: Couple (40’s and 50’s), two sons (25 and 23) in: February 2012
From: Rome, Italy
How Long: 3 weeks
Where: New York, San Francisco, Napa & Sonoma, 101 South to Cambria, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles. Last 5 days in San Jose del Cabo, Mexico.
Purpose of trip: vacation but also getting an overview of the hospitality industry around wine production.
We flew Continental/United direct from Rome to NY. The flight was disappointing in that we had paid more for extra legroom but the video screens weren’t working in these seats. Annoying but the flight was on time, all the boarding and disembarking was quick and efficient and in a short time we were met by our pre booked taxi (Dial 7) at Newark. The limo was supposed to cost $60 but after tax, tip and tolls it came to over 80. Next time I would just get a normal cab, there were plenty there waiting. We reached Times Square on a beautiful sunny day - in Rome it weas snowing!
The Paramount - Very hip and dark lobby, convenient on site Dean&De Luca for breakfast, friendly staff and comfortable public spaces with free wifi. The rooms we picked were adequately large and nicely appointed. For well under $200 per room per night we found this hotel to be a good deal.
Restaurants: we had our three evening meals at 1) Pastis – still going strong, fun atmosphere but expensive for the food which is really quite standard. 2) DBGB – very hip atmosphere, great looking place, good vibe, very nice burghers and reasonably priced, 3) Blue Smoke, a charming jazz venue in Harlem where we had excellent Southern food accompanied by some great music. A really good find.
In NY we walked and walked and walked! Visited the Diego Ribera exhibition at the MoMa and that was all we had time for in 3 days!
(it was not our first time in NY I might add….)
Next San Francisco.....
Who went: Couple (40’s and 50’s), two sons (25 and 23) in: February 2012
From: Rome, Italy
How Long: 3 weeks
Where: New York, San Francisco, Napa & Sonoma, 101 South to Cambria, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles. Last 5 days in San Jose del Cabo, Mexico.
Purpose of trip: vacation but also getting an overview of the hospitality industry around wine production.
We flew Continental/United direct from Rome to NY. The flight was disappointing in that we had paid more for extra legroom but the video screens weren’t working in these seats. Annoying but the flight was on time, all the boarding and disembarking was quick and efficient and in a short time we were met by our pre booked taxi (Dial 7) at Newark. The limo was supposed to cost $60 but after tax, tip and tolls it came to over 80. Next time I would just get a normal cab, there were plenty there waiting. We reached Times Square on a beautiful sunny day - in Rome it weas snowing!
The Paramount - Very hip and dark lobby, convenient on site Dean&De Luca for breakfast, friendly staff and comfortable public spaces with free wifi. The rooms we picked were adequately large and nicely appointed. For well under $200 per room per night we found this hotel to be a good deal.
Restaurants: we had our three evening meals at 1) Pastis – still going strong, fun atmosphere but expensive for the food which is really quite standard. 2) DBGB – very hip atmosphere, great looking place, good vibe, very nice burghers and reasonably priced, 3) Blue Smoke, a charming jazz venue in Harlem where we had excellent Southern food accompanied by some great music. A really good find.
In NY we walked and walked and walked! Visited the Diego Ribera exhibition at the MoMa and that was all we had time for in 3 days!
(it was not our first time in NY I might add….)
Next San Francisco.....
May 21st, 2012, 05:52 AM
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Nice report so far!
The Blue Smoke jazz venue sounds great, as does the Diego Rivera exhibition. I love his work - and saw a show in La Jolla Museum of Contemp Art years ago with Freda Kahlo's work.
I was recently in San Jose del Cabo - looking forward to your trip experiences there.
The Blue Smoke jazz venue sounds great, as does the Diego Rivera exhibition. I love his work - and saw a show in La Jolla Museum of Contemp Art years ago with Freda Kahlo's work.
I was recently in San Jose del Cabo - looking forward to your trip experiences there.
May 21st, 2012, 10:58 AM
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San Francisco
Flew from NY with United Airlines – uneventful flight arrived at our hotel in Union Square just in time for dinner. We stayed at the Monaco highly recommended on Trip Advisor. The hotel has some character (though in dubious taste) and the rooms are “nice” and comfortable. We had booked a large suite for the 4 of us but decided it was not going to work. The staff were very quick and straightforward about transferring us to 2 rooms with the same tariff. We were comfortable there and would probably return. The neighbourhood is pretty weird though, as soon as you turn left into O’Geary – the number of homeless people, quite a few aggressive ones too, staggered us. Worst than Vancouver! We actually preferred not to leave our rental car at the Hertz office so we wouldn’t have to walk through there at night. However if you turn right everything is fine and the location is very central to everything.
Over the next few days we went to the Pier, the Mission, Height Ashbury, we went up Coit Tower for the view and to admire the frescoes (highly recommended!), we visited the Academy of Sciences, Stanford and Palo Alto. Most places we walked or taxied to, except for our trip south where we used the car. Parking is expensive but easy to find by European standards.
In SF we ate in some excellent restaurants: Gitane, very atmospheric, interesting latino fusion cuisine , La Mar, Peruvian chic – delicious food, minimalist décor, Slanted Door – sophisticated Vietnamese, Le Bar Agricole – very chic Californian cuisine, beautiful ambience but limited menu. One night we went to the speakeasy “Bourbon and Branch” which was fun. In all these places we were shocked by the prices of the Californian wines usually no less than $100 per bottle. We therefore drank non Cal wines in SF reserving that experience for later.
The kids enjoyed investigating the breweries and night clubs but that's another story....
Flew from NY with United Airlines – uneventful flight arrived at our hotel in Union Square just in time for dinner. We stayed at the Monaco highly recommended on Trip Advisor. The hotel has some character (though in dubious taste) and the rooms are “nice” and comfortable. We had booked a large suite for the 4 of us but decided it was not going to work. The staff were very quick and straightforward about transferring us to 2 rooms with the same tariff. We were comfortable there and would probably return. The neighbourhood is pretty weird though, as soon as you turn left into O’Geary – the number of homeless people, quite a few aggressive ones too, staggered us. Worst than Vancouver! We actually preferred not to leave our rental car at the Hertz office so we wouldn’t have to walk through there at night. However if you turn right everything is fine and the location is very central to everything.
Over the next few days we went to the Pier, the Mission, Height Ashbury, we went up Coit Tower for the view and to admire the frescoes (highly recommended!), we visited the Academy of Sciences, Stanford and Palo Alto. Most places we walked or taxied to, except for our trip south where we used the car. Parking is expensive but easy to find by European standards.
In SF we ate in some excellent restaurants: Gitane, very atmospheric, interesting latino fusion cuisine , La Mar, Peruvian chic – delicious food, minimalist décor, Slanted Door – sophisticated Vietnamese, Le Bar Agricole – very chic Californian cuisine, beautiful ambience but limited menu. One night we went to the speakeasy “Bourbon and Branch” which was fun. In all these places we were shocked by the prices of the Californian wines usually no less than $100 per bottle. We therefore drank non Cal wines in SF reserving that experience for later.
The kids enjoyed investigating the breweries and night clubs but that's another story....
May 21st, 2012, 12:21 PM
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After 4 nights in SF we drove up to Sonoma valley for our one night 2 day tour of the wine country. For us this proved to be too short. We should have spent at least an extra night or two. We come from a family of wine makers and our sons will soon be taking over the business so they were particularly keen to taste and see as many wines and wineries as possible. Without giving a full account of all our tastings which would take pages and pages I can summarize our experience by saying that we encountered incredible hospitality, friendliness and professionality wherever we went. For some reason we expected a certain snobbishness and commercial coldness from the wineries especially in Napa. Nothing could be further from the truth. Everywhere we went we were greeted with enthusiasm and friendliness, each time we mentioned our own winery we were treated as VIP’s with tours and particular bottles uncorked especially for us. This was the case everywhere from the tiniest family wineries to the big Mondavi and Opus One. We never once had to pay a tasting fee, even! Our kids were over the moon and I am sure they learnt a lot which will come in useful when setting up their own place. Of course we also tasted some amazing wines though it has to be said that, as far as value for money goes, European wines have the advantage.
We spent the night at the convenient and comfortable Inn at Sonoma and ate at the very nice Girl and Fig on the pretty town square. Also recommended : Farmstead restaurant in St. Helena. Little wineries we particularly enjoyed : Martinelli in Russian River, Mazzocco, Andretti, Cohen….
We spent the night at the convenient and comfortable Inn at Sonoma and ate at the very nice Girl and Fig on the pretty town square. Also recommended : Farmstead restaurant in St. Helena. Little wineries we particularly enjoyed : Martinelli in Russian River, Mazzocco, Andretti, Cohen….
May 22nd, 2012, 10:41 AM
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At about 6pm we left Napa and drove across SF to Davenport our stop for the night so we would be ready to head South in the morning. This seemed a good plan but we hadn’t considered the traffic on a weekday evening to cross the bridge. It took forever and our designated driver for the day (me) was exhausted by the time we reached the fantastic Davenport Roadhouse just in time before the kitchen closed. This inn is an excellent place to stay if you need a stopover in the Santa Cruz area. It is right on the ocean with a clean smell of sea air in all the charming rooms upstairs . The food is very good, wholesome and local.Good beers. Prices honest and staff very friendly and helpful.
May 23rd, 2012, 01:06 AM
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Plenty of wines at $40 a bottle Stu - just not the California wines! OK maybe I exaggerated a bit but it's always a shock to see a Vermentino at anything over $20 for an Italian! And of course, you are absolutely right that it's the restaurant that makes the difference.
We found the wines in NZ to be much better value for money than in Australia and Canada where local wines in restaurants had very high mark ups.
To go on with my story.......
The next day we made a quick stopover in Santa Cruz which on a weekday morning in winter was not very exciting. We then started our drive South along the 101 stopping first in Monterey. I had been there many years ago and liked it but this time I was disappointed, probably from having just read Cannery Row and Tortilla Flat again I found the new Cannery Row about as far away from the spirit of Steinbeck’s novels as could be. His name is exploited in such commercial and trashy fashion and it seems ironic and rather sad. We then proceeded on to Carmel which seemed unchanged since we were there 25 years ago and still charming despite its classy- ghetto atmosphere. Here we picked up some outrageously expensive and complicated sandwiches (and a fine because our front wheel slightly touched the white line!) and headed for Point Lobos National Park for a walk and pic nic. This park is very pleasant though there is not a lot to see in terms of wildlife. The coast is beautiful and anticipated the views on our drive through Big Sur and down to our final stop for the day in Cambria. It's a long drive but worth it.
We were quite excited about our accommodation in Cambria as we had chosen these tiny “Moonstone Cottages” which looked amazing on the web. They are in fact right on the sea front and very well appointed though the décor is slightly kitsch (teddy bears and flowery tea pots). Totally private with breakfast delivered in the mornings and the sound of the ocean at night - we did enjoy them. The location is very convenient for walking along the beach and walking distance to the small town and restaurants. On our first night we ate at the Sea Chest which had good seafood. The manager spent lots of time discussing wines and local wineries to visit with our son and gave us some good tips for the next few days.
We found the wines in NZ to be much better value for money than in Australia and Canada where local wines in restaurants had very high mark ups.
To go on with my story.......
The next day we made a quick stopover in Santa Cruz which on a weekday morning in winter was not very exciting. We then started our drive South along the 101 stopping first in Monterey. I had been there many years ago and liked it but this time I was disappointed, probably from having just read Cannery Row and Tortilla Flat again I found the new Cannery Row about as far away from the spirit of Steinbeck’s novels as could be. His name is exploited in such commercial and trashy fashion and it seems ironic and rather sad. We then proceeded on to Carmel which seemed unchanged since we were there 25 years ago and still charming despite its classy- ghetto atmosphere. Here we picked up some outrageously expensive and complicated sandwiches (and a fine because our front wheel slightly touched the white line!) and headed for Point Lobos National Park for a walk and pic nic. This park is very pleasant though there is not a lot to see in terms of wildlife. The coast is beautiful and anticipated the views on our drive through Big Sur and down to our final stop for the day in Cambria. It's a long drive but worth it.
We were quite excited about our accommodation in Cambria as we had chosen these tiny “Moonstone Cottages” which looked amazing on the web. They are in fact right on the sea front and very well appointed though the décor is slightly kitsch (teddy bears and flowery tea pots). Totally private with breakfast delivered in the mornings and the sound of the ocean at night - we did enjoy them. The location is very convenient for walking along the beach and walking distance to the small town and restaurants. On our first night we ate at the Sea Chest which had good seafood. The manager spent lots of time discussing wines and local wineries to visit with our son and gave us some good tips for the next few days.
May 23rd, 2012, 06:07 AM
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Just loving this report. Please keep it up. Too bad about wasting a day in Santa Cruz - which I think has little appeal - other than the roller coaster.
A friend of mine just landed in Venice - and he said he is enjoying the good food/time at a reasonable price. And heis a foodie - originally from NYC. (You know - the "There is no Pizza in SD" refrain.
)
Surprised me as I always thought Venice was tres expensive, but I guess the economic situation in Europe has at least one good side effect for Yanks?
A friend of mine just landed in Venice - and he said he is enjoying the good food/time at a reasonable price. And heis a foodie - originally from NYC. (You know - the "There is no Pizza in SD" refrain.
) Surprised me as I always thought Venice was tres expensive, but I guess the economic situation in Europe has at least one good side effect for Yanks?
May 23rd, 2012, 06:44 AM
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Nice report! Especially the wonderful description of your time in Sonoma.
From your time in NYC, you say you went to Blue Smoke in Harlem. Blue Smoke is not in Harlem; it has two locations in lower Manhattan. There is a jazz/supper club called simply Smoke. It's not in Harlem either, but close enough (Morningside Heights) that you might think it is. (And their website says "located off the southern edge of Harlem" even though it's 20 blocks away!). Was your dinner at either of these?
http://www.bluesmoke.com/
http://www.smokejazz.com/
From your time in NYC, you say you went to Blue Smoke in Harlem. Blue Smoke is not in Harlem; it has two locations in lower Manhattan. There is a jazz/supper club called simply Smoke. It's not in Harlem either, but close enough (Morningside Heights) that you might think it is. (And their website says "located off the southern edge of Harlem" even though it's 20 blocks away!). Was your dinner at either of these?
http://www.bluesmoke.com/
http://www.smokejazz.com/
May 23rd, 2012, 08:55 AM
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On the La Mar (where you dined) wine list I provided the link to, there are:
36 Calif wines offered.
19 wines are $49 or lower
Price distribution details are:
7 wines in the $30s
12 wines in the $40s
4 wines in the $50s
4 wines in the $60s
1 wine in the $70s
2 wines in the $80s
2 wines in the $90
4 wines are above $100
Stu Dudley
36 Calif wines offered.
19 wines are $49 or lower
Price distribution details are:
7 wines in the $30s
12 wines in the $40s
4 wines in the $50s
4 wines in the $60s
1 wine in the $70s
2 wines in the $80s
2 wines in the $90
4 wines are above $100
Stu Dudley
May 23rd, 2012, 09:28 AM
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Oops sorry it was Smoke Supper Club. We have been to Blue Smoke as well in the past but this place had a completely different vibe, Different food too. We went with some friends from NY and they loved it too.
Yes - the elephant seals! I am coming to them:
Early next morning we drove to Hearst Castle where we had pre-booked a tour. What to say? It is an amazing place and worth visiting when you are in the area but we were a little stressed out by the palaver of the visitor centre, the bus, the guides who all repeat the same things over and over again – which are exactly the same things you can read on the pamphlets anyway. The whole thing should have taken an hour but it took more like three and in the end we disn't feel as if we'd really seen enough of the property.
The real highlight of the drive was seeing the literally thousands of sea elephants along the coast at St Simeon. We went back twice to see them at different times of day and they are a grotesque and fascinating spectacle!
The next couple of days were spent around Paso Robles and San Luis Obispo where we did more wine tastings and winery visits. Once again it was a really interesting experience and we were always made really welcome and fussed over. It seems being Italian is a big advantage in these parts!
Food we particularly enjoyed in this leg of our trip were the fish n’ chips in Morro Bay and our meal at the Sow’s Ear in Cambria.
Yes - the elephant seals! I am coming to them:
Early next morning we drove to Hearst Castle where we had pre-booked a tour. What to say? It is an amazing place and worth visiting when you are in the area but we were a little stressed out by the palaver of the visitor centre, the bus, the guides who all repeat the same things over and over again – which are exactly the same things you can read on the pamphlets anyway. The whole thing should have taken an hour but it took more like three and in the end we disn't feel as if we'd really seen enough of the property.
The real highlight of the drive was seeing the literally thousands of sea elephants along the coast at St Simeon. We went back twice to see them at different times of day and they are a grotesque and fascinating spectacle!
The next couple of days were spent around Paso Robles and San Luis Obispo where we did more wine tastings and winery visits. Once again it was a really interesting experience and we were always made really welcome and fussed over. It seems being Italian is a big advantage in these parts!
Food we particularly enjoyed in this leg of our trip were the fish n’ chips in Morro Bay and our meal at the Sow’s Ear in Cambria.
