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-   -   New England & Canada in 2+ wks! (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/new-england-and-canada-in-2-wks-691712/)

Sanador Mar 27th, 2007 07:19 PM

New England & Canada in 2+ wks!
 
My girlfriend and I are visiting some of her distant family in Newfoundland in late June/early July. We've decided to drive and make a bit of an adventure out of the whole trip. We've only got about 2 weeks plus perhaps a few more days and are on a bit of a budget, but aren't we all. We're B&B fans and have never been to New England or Canada. Our interests include scenic coastlines, whales, shops, food, and lots of R&R. Above all, I'd like to make this a special, romantic trip for us, possibly even including one very important question for her before we reach Canada...

With the recent help of this site and its forums, I've tinkered with my itinerary a hundred times already, but mainly it includes:

- Starting in northern NJ at Grandma's
- 1-2 days in ME (York maybe?)
- Ferrying to Nova Scotia (out of Portland perhaps to save some driving)
- 1 day in Halifax
- Ferrying out of North Sydney to Port aux Basques, Newfoundland
- 4 days or so with family in St. John's plus stops/nights along the way there and back in Gros Morne (Rocky Harbor B&B?) and Twillingate and/or a camping night somewhere along the route...?
- Ferry back to Nova Scotia
- 1 day in Hopewell Cape
- 2-3 days in Bar Harbor
- 1-2 days in Cape Cod
- Aaaaaand home to Baltimore...

I understand this is shaping up to be quite the whirlwind tour and I'm headed for lots of driving, but we "don't get out much" in regards to traveling outside the mid-Atlantic area and we'd like to see as much as we can yet spend a bit of quality time here and there. I humbly ask for any input on items to be cut out, corners to be cut, or must see locales I've missed, as well as any great accommodations you'd recommend. Thanks very much in advance for any and all help!

rkkwan Mar 27th, 2007 08:21 PM

The CAT only runs Portand - Yarmouth on Fri, Sat and Sunday, and takes 5.5 hours. A car costs about $149, and each adult $89 (though they have cheaper fares on select sailing if you book early). That's over $300, and you're still 300km or 3 hours from Halifax.

It's about 550 miles if you drive - you can do it in under 10 hours, so timewise is similar. Assuming $3.5 per gallon average (less if you fuel up before heading into Canada) and your car gets only 20MPH, it's still only $100. If your car gets 30MPH, it's under $70.

djkbooks Mar 27th, 2007 09:06 PM

Do-able, but quite ambitious...

York is fine, but I'd recommend Kennebunkport or Ogunquit. You can visit all three along the way.

I'd recommend 1-2 days in Bar Harbor - but we prefer Camden or Boothbay Harbor, adding the other day to Cape Cod.

Whatever you do, plan to drive to/from Cape Cod on weekdays in July.

Actually, I'd plan an overnight between Cape Cod and home. I live in southern NH and visit family in Baltimore often. That would be a very long drive in one day after all that driving over two weeks.

Be advised that "budget" lodging will be a challenge along the coast of Maine and on Cape Cod in July.

If your dates are flexible, HIGHLY recommend planning for your drive home June 30th. This year, July 4th is on a Monday. Traffic everywhere will likely be a nightmare starting Friday, perhaps even Thursday.

You'll find more favorable rates with accomodations prior to July 4th weekend.

dfrostnh Mar 28th, 2007 03:09 AM

First, I think if you are going to have an important question, it would be wonderful if it were in a very special place. York has beautiful beaches but it's also a favorite family area with a funky downtown area. I'd vote for something more upscale and, of course, would suggest one of my favorite places such as the top of Mt Battie in Camden (take the auto rd). GREAT place for a picnic with a great view overlooking the harbor. I think with good planning you could make the drive seem less hectic. Maybe staying in Portsmouth NH the first night and take a morning boat cruise. Portsmouth has great restaurants. Prescott Park is nice for walking around just to enjoy the scenery but the downtown area has some great shops and boutiques. If you want sandy beach, just head a little south. I assume you'd like to ask the question so her family can celebrate. Portland isn't far from Portsmouth but you could take all day to get there. Great shopping and restaurants if you're planning to take the ferry. Along the way, take a walk along the Marginal Way in Ogunquit.
You will probably find cheaper places to stay a town or two away from the popular places. If you decide to visit Camden, stay someplace else but enjoy the town. We have not stayed at Cellar Door Winery in nearby Lincolnville but enjoy the wine tasting and buying wine. It's not on the coast but a pretty drive inland.
I would skip Cape Cod on this trip. The timing seems bad because of the holiday plus there are plenty of other places in Maine and Nova Scotia you could visit. In fact, you might search out a place for a terrific 4th of July. It's been years since we spent the 4th in Wolfeboro NH but you can spread a blanket on the hillside behind the private school and watch the fireworks over Lake Winnipesaukee. I know this may sound out of the way for you but it's only about 1 1/2 hours from Portland ME. Maybe other posters have a great 4th of July suggestion. Seems like a great way to cap a very special vacation.
There's a very lovely area south of Halifax. Nova Scotia is very clean and green. I think they call it the lighthouse route.
It really depends on what kind of atmosphere you enjoy. We love Camden but it's crowded. Great shops. But there are other small towns along the Maine coast where you almost forget it's 2007. Much quieter but not great shopping.

Sanador Mar 28th, 2007 10:30 AM

Thanks very much for the advice so far. I'm not sitting in front of my itinerary right now, but I believe I have us in Canada for the entire July portion of our trip. There go any fireworks we hoped to see, but the timing worked better that way and I thought it might help with traffic.

I'd investigated the idea of skipping the CAT entirely, like we are on the way back, but I worry that that would rule out our seeing any of central to southern Nova Scotia.

Kennebunkport and Ogunquit sound intriguing. I'll have to investigate. I worried that they might be especially expensive (compared to the rest of the cheap NE coast!). Please tell me if I'm wrong.

And, finally, you're right... the day of the big question should be an especially perfect location and I'd spare little to no expense, relatively speaking of course. Please keep the suggestions and advice coming. It is very much appreciated!

Sanador Mar 28th, 2007 10:53 AM

Let me also add that we're both relatively young and active. If it weren't for all the subsequent driving, I'd say we'd certainly be up for some hikes. We also wouldn't shy away from the occasional pub as a reprieve from a more romantic evening if anyone has a specific recommendation.

And just to clarify our timing, we've been looking at something like June 26th through July 12th or so. We're flexible in the range of only a day or two at either end. Thanks again for all the help and I look forward to further responses!

dfrostnh Mar 28th, 2007 11:35 AM

Nova Scotia is divided into areas in their tourist guide. The southern part, landing in Yarmouth isn't very scenic. The Annapolis Valley is wonderful farming area but I remember the very middle of the province as a bit desolate. North of Halifax is very rugged, beautiful but not much there. Cape Breton is wonderful, similar to Acadia with the coastal drive around the mountain. Keep in mind that the Bay of Fundy is scenic but not a place for great swimming. The water seems always churned up because of the great tidal changes whereas some of the beaches on the eastern coast remind me of the Carolina beaches. Long stretches of sand. The gulf stream comes close to land so the water there is much warmer than in Maine and surprisingly warm in some areas.
When we were young marrieds we vacationed in the Bar Harbor area. We've returned to Maine on many vacations. Growing up we never really traveled so it was something we had to learn how to do. I hope you enjoy the fun of discovering your special places like we have.

Sanador Mar 28th, 2007 12:05 PM

Sounds much like us, dfrostnh. Maybe we'll cut down our Nova Scotia section then. What about Halifax? Also, if we're going to drive through NB to NS and then ferry to Newfoundland, where does one stay (what does one do and see) in NB to break up that trip? Bar Harbor to North Sydney, NS and the ferry to NF is a 10.5 hour drive according to the maps. Is it worth throwing a day on PEI or do we schedule a night in Hopewell Cape or give up a night in North Sydney waiting for the morning ferry? There's always the option of scheduling our trip so that we catch a midnight ferry from NS to NF and sleep on the boat.

Sorry... thinking out loud. Thanks again everyone. Back to work.

Sanador Mar 28th, 2007 02:09 PM

Where I'm really at a loss is Cape Cod. djkbooks recommended an extra day there, but where?

yellowbyrd Mar 28th, 2007 04:29 PM

First of all the 4th of July is on a Wednesday this year..not a Monday, so traffic to Cape Cod will be spread out over the week instead of being jammed into the weekend. If you weren't doing so much driving I would recommend going to the outer Cape beginning at Eastham, at the "forearm" and traveling to Provincetown at the "fist". The National Seashore beaches would make a perfect setting for the BIG question and considering your preferences for scenic coastlines, whales, shops, food and R&R, you really couldn't go wrong there. Our favorite place is the Fort Hill Bed and Breakfast in the National Park on Fort Hill. But I have a feeling that it is both to far out the Cape for you and perhaps beyond what you want to pay. So perhaps your best bet it is to go to Falmouth. From there you can always day-trip to Martha's Vineyard and get some time on the water instead of in the car. Sorry I don't know of any places to stay in the area.
Have a great trip...I hope the answer is YES!

Sanador Mar 29th, 2007 04:15 AM

That is a bit pricey, but looks very nice. If there's a way I can swing it... What about the towns themselves? What are the differences, if any, among Fallmouth, Eastham, Yarmouth, Chatham? I get the feeling that the outer Cape is where we'd like to make our last real stop, but could use a bit more direction. Thanks very much, yellowbyrd, and all.

yellowbyrd Mar 29th, 2007 05:40 AM

Falmouth is a year round town with lots of commercial development but a lovely seaside feeling. Fairly well developed in every location with very few remote places that are public. Nonetheless, in July it might be a good choice for you as long as you don't mind being with lots of people. Woodshole is a part of Falmouth and there are some nice quant sections there to see as well as WHOA.

Forget Yarmouth....busy busybusy...may as well go to New Jersey. Next to Hyannis, very commercial...not what you are looking for unless you want to go to a mall an shop.

Chatham is getting a lot of press these days. Lovely, very gracious town center with boutique type shops. Very popular place for walking around Main Street to shop and some nice restaurants. If you are looking for an in-town location with lots of tourists, but still with a bit of a village feeling, then Chatham is a good choice.

Eastham is all about beaches and the National Seashore. The rangers are very helpful explaining programs and pointing out historical sights as well as special tours, beach fires at night, etc. It does not have much of a town center but because it is only 3 miles wide from ocean to bay and 7 miles long from the towns of Wellfleet to Orleans, it make a good place to base yourself. Chatham is 20-25 minutes to the south and Provincetown is 25-30 minutes to the north. You could go to Coast Guard Beach at night, have a picnic by the bon fire and pop the question with no one around....except maybe a seal or two!

thurstonbb Mar 29th, 2007 06:29 AM

Years ago I went to Newfoundland with a friend. We drove from MA, went along the Cabot Trail (my 3rd time there - beautiful) then hopped the ferry at night to arrive early am. No sleep - ended up in the bar all night with the Newfies singing away. It is great memories! Stayed/camped at Blow Me Down Campground - profound as it did pour rain and was quite cold (August), but when the sun came out it was just a beautiful place. There was a short hike p to overlook the fjords...gorgeous!

elisabet Mar 29th, 2007 09:54 AM

Disclaimer: I live in Maine, summer near Bar Harbor, and may be biased....
All of these places are wonderful. Halifax is a gorgeous city--at least it was many years ago when I lived there.
Portland is somewhat similar, although without an historic fort. Summer on Cape Cod seems always to involve traffic jams. But the beaches are lovely.
So as you decide, please consider that there is great hiking and nature near Bar Harbor. Acadia National Park, even when busy, is amazing. One of my favorite things to do is hike a small mountain overlooking the ocean and offshore islands. After the hike, we go to Bar Harbor (usually a 10-15 minute drive, depending on which maountain trail we chose) and eat pizza at Rosalie's. Afterward, there are shops and an easy ocean walk. Many B&B's in Bar Harbor or other Mount Desert Island towns. Also, many fancier restaurants--but I was thinking budget and hiking attire, complete with sweat! MDI has many historic homes, day cruises, even a Sand Beach--although mainly rocky coastline.
Just don't spend the entire trip in the car. You already know what that looks like. :-)
Have great trip!

Sanador Mar 29th, 2007 10:22 AM

Thanks Elisabet... sounds right up our alley. I'm trying to cut the trip down to Bar Harbor, NS, NL/NF, and the Cape (probably in that order). Following your advice though, I don't want to spend 10 hrs per day in the car. The hike from Baltimore to St. John's, NF requires a long haul and I'm looking for the best possible ways to break up the driving, get to our ultimate destination, and spend a few days here and there as best as we possibly can. You're all a very big help.

yellowbyrd Mar 29th, 2007 05:11 PM

We love Bar Harbor and try to visit every summer. You might want to check out the Graycote Inn, www.graycoteinn.com, which is on a quiet side street not too far from Cottage St. I ca highly recommend it as we return each year. Many of the large B+B inns are on a busy road and tend to be too noisy for our taste. The Graycote is lovely, very reasonably priced, and they give a full served breakfast that is excellent. The inn keepers are very knowledgeable about the area and they have a wealth of information to share that will help you plan your day. From the Graycote's location, you can easily walk to the center of town and do not have to worry about where to park your car...always a problem in town during the summer. You will love Acadia...after Fort Hill on the outer cape, it's our favorite place to relax.


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