Need help with Maine itinerary
 

Hello All!

My husband and I are planning a 12/13 day trip to Maine the last two weeks in September 2007. We are from the west coast and in our late 40's. Last year we went to New England (fall foliage - Vermont and New Hampshire) for the first time and loved it so much that we decided to explore Maine. Flying in and out of different airports is not a concern for us. We enjoy American, local & maritime history, some antiquing, quaint villages, lighthouses, light hiking and meandering along country roads. Would like to mostly do the coast but I've seen other posts here for inland Maine as well (Moosehead Lake)& Bethel. I get sea sick so unfornately harbor tours or island hopping are not an option unless in calm bay (may be tolerated.

We need help in trying to figure out how long to stay in each area - we typically like to base ourselves 2/3 days at an Inn or B & B. We don't need to see everything and like a more leisurly pace. We also only go on one vacation a year so we enjoying staying at more upscale B & B's, Inn's and like to enjoy a great memorable meal or two!

Thought we'd fly into Manchester NH, would arrive late and stay near airport first night We'd like to start out in York and go all the way up to Campobello Island. Stopping at Ogunquit, Old Orchard Beach, Portland, Bath (Maritime Museum),Camden and Bar Harbor (Acadia). Castine, Boothbay Harbor, Wiscasset and Blue Hill has some reviews on this post for being lovely area's to explore.

We do plan on spending at least two/three full days to explore Acadia Nat'l. Park. We are also aware that getting off of Hwy 1 could take hours to explore various towns.

I guess I'd like to know if some towns are more overated than others and should be skipped. Should we spend a whole day in Portland? Also, are there any small towns worth visting more inland off the coast. Can the coast and Moosehead Lake be done in 12/13 days? Also, are there great area's to explore past Bar Harbor along coast.

Any recommendations on our itinerary would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you have any suggestions on great places to stay and dine - that would be lovely too!

I think the lake areas are very nice in September. I'd vote for driving to Alton Bay, New Hampshire when you arrive at Manchester. Spend a couple of nights at the Bayside Inn there, and then head up the coast. (Sebago Lake, Maine would be another nice spot...stay at the lake instead of in Portland and take a day trip to Portland.)
Moosehead is beautiful, but more "wilderness cabin" than "upscale B&B".

Old Orchard Beach is worth a walk on the long beautiful sand (stop south of OOB, in Ocean Park)...but not an overnight. Continue on to Inn By the Sea in Cape Elizabeth instead.
Glenmoor By the Sea is a favorite in Camden, and Welch House Inn in Boothbay.

In Bar Harbor check out Bar Harbor inn.Great place with fireplace.You can book a two or three day special package including lodging, great whale watching excursion and a lobster meal.Acadia is wonderful but also visit Bass Harbor lighthouse. The region around Rangeley lakes is nice too.Paul

If You haven't visited Portsmouth NH I would add that to your list. Kittery Maine is just over the bridge. Strawbery Banke is a beautiful historical area plus Portsmouth has some great restaurants. We typically spend a week in an area of Maine so 12/13 days is great. From Wiscasset, for example, it's easy to explore Boothbay (nice easy hike at nearby Maine Coast Gardens on Barter Island), Bath and even Camden/Rockport as day trips. For example, on a day trip from Wiscasset we visited Owls Head Transportation Museum during a 50s weekend, easy short hike to Owls Head Light, late lunch at Waterman's Beach (lobster at a picnic table next to the water). You might list what you'd like to see then pick a central location so you can stay several days in one spot. I also like Glenmoor by the Sea which is just north of Camden. One of my all time favorite things to do in late September is visit the Common Ground Fair sponsored by the organic farmers association. Not at all like your usual agricultural fair. Beautiful handicrafts and all organic/natural foods. No midway. It's held in Unity but an easy day trip from Camden. For a different transportation museum we also liked the Cole Transportation Museum in Bangor which puts you inland. This museum deals more with trains, logging and work vehicles. If there is a demonstration day at Leonard's Mills, they have a great restored saw mill. Again, this is more about Maine's logging history rather than maritime. Maine's coast is divided into areas. Our favorite is the mid-coast area I've just described. We usually travel up Rt 95 and get off onto Rt 1 in Brunswick. For us, Ogunquit and the Kennebunks are too crowded and we can get there as day trips.
BTW since you plan to fly into MHT, if you north to Concord and take Rt 393/Rt 4 over to Portsmouth you will pass thru Antique Alley in Northwood. Rt 101 is the quickest way to the coast from MHT but it's a boring divided highway. You could easily make the hour trip into a half day adventure. Spend the night in Portsmouth etc. The further north you go along Maine's coast, the more quiet it gets. North of Camden the towns are smaller and less devoted to tourism until you get to Bar Harbor. We've traveled all the way to Canada but it gets sparse. I think we took the inland route one way, thru mostly blueberry barrens, and coastal route coming back.
Somehow, we haven't managed to visit much of inland Maine except to cross thru headed for the coast. It doesn't take many miles inland to get very quiet with mostly farmland, trees. On one trip down from Canada we traveled all the way from Fort Kent to Presque Isle before we found a place to spend the night. Lots and lots of trees! But I think there are lots of wonderful places we just haven't discovered yet. I think most of your time can be spent on the coast with a couple of days reserved for an inland visit as long as you know where you're going. There is so much on the coast that you can wander and find lots of things but inland is much more sparsely populated.

When you get to Acadia, try to get over to the Schoodic Pennisula portion of the park. Its about a 45 minute drive and well worth it. Very remote and beautiful, far fewer visitors than the Mt. Desert part of the park. A few nice restaurants and shops to explore also.

You absolutely MUST eat the Seafood Chowder at Gilbert's Chowder House in Portland in the Old Port area on the water. It is a very casual place, and the Super Seafood Chowder (that is the seafood chowder with double the seafood--it has clams, lobster, scallops and Maine shrimp in it) is so delicious. You can get it in a sourdough bread bowl or without. I am a flight attendant and my friend and I would bid Portland layovers just to eat that chowder! Portland is one of my favorite smaller cities. The Old Port is charming with cobblestone streets and fun little shops and great restaurants. Have fun. Maine is so beautiful!

I'm not sure how important the fall foliage is to you but keep in mind that the coastal areas do not have the best. Inland the trees will be much prettier.

Keep in mind some attractions along the coast will be closed.

Maybe you can combine the coast and inland travel.

Bar Harbor is one of the most beautiful towns in Maine - definitely stay there. There are some wonderful restaurants but avoid the overpriced tourist traps on the waterfront. Lobster is cheaper up the road at Rupernunnis. We had the most incredible ice cream at a place called Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream - it is a charming, flower bedecked tiny shop with pure homemade, delectable & unique ice cream flavors. A gorgeous woman from the Philadelphia region owns it, named Linda Parker - she is a world traveler and fascinating to talk to. Don't be afraid to try her "fearless flavors" like Mt. Cadillac Stout with Fudge or the Chocolate Wasabi; they're all so good and they do have mainstream flavors, such as my personal favorite, coconut which is the best I've ever had. My husband and I would skip desserts at restaurants and head back to this friendly little place. I was so impressed (and addicted) to this ice cream that I brought some home, packed carefully for the 10 hour drive!

Regarding hotels, there are so many cute B&B's and the Holiday Inn up there is actually lovely and well priced. Go up to Cadillac Mountain for sunset or sunrise; it is breathtaking! You can pay the park fee and do the Acadia Loop drive through the park, minutes from Bar Harbor. Do a hike, rent bikes and visit Jordan Pond - a lovely Martha Stewart rave - you could spend a week in Bar Harbor and still wish you stayed longer. Enjoy! It's one of our favorite spots in this country.

Last time we were in Maine we stayed in the York area. A worthwhile stop there would be the Cape Neddick Lighthouse. It is one of the most photographed lighthouses in Maine. It is on many calendars. I would also make Ogunquit a must see stop. There are many beautiful B&B's and motels which have views overlooking the ocean. It is also famous for the marginal way it's a paved walkway along the ocean you can climb out on the rocks sit and watch the waves crash.The walkway goes from Ogunquit to Perkins Cove. Perkins Cove is very picturesque. Perkins Cove has very unique shops and great restaurants overlooking the water. I would definately make it a stop on your trip. Another great lighthouse is Cape Elizabeth and the Portland light. I would suggest you spend more time along than the coast than inland the coast has so many scenic areas. Another suggestion if you are going up as far as Campobello Island would be to do a moose tour which would be up in that area. I forgot to mention when in the Camden area you also have to go up to the top of Mount Battie for a spectacular view of camden and the harbor. If you are travelling along route 1 from Portland to Bar Harbour another interesting stop in the prison store in Thomaston. Prisoners hand make crafts most are wooden crafts.I have brought many beautiful and unique items there.

Tracy2Cents, tovarich, clueless dfrostnh, bennnie, skpscubapuppies, skp and mmouse52!

Thanks so much to all of you for your input. Great ideas and recommendations for everthing including the lighthouses. Now I just have to really figure and map everything out within the next two/three weeks. Please keep checking the "Maine" section of this forum as I may have more questions. One innkeeper recommended that I get a book called "Maine: An Explorer's Guide" which I'm going to get from Amazon. I also used the Delorme' "Gazetter" for Vermont and New Hampshire so I may try to find a used Maine mapbook from Amazon as well. We realize that we may miss the peak foliage color but that will be ok for this trip.

Will look into some of the Inn's and B& B's posted and thank you "skp" for the seafood chowder recommendation.

"Dfrostnh" - thanks for the thorough run-down. We will think about adding NH Portsmouth to the agenda (we love historical). All of the museums (Logging in Bangor) especially sounds very interesting. Also, the antique Alley and Fair!

"Scubapuppies" Already had Jordan Pond on the list - thanks for adding that and the ice cream.

"mmouse52" - thanks for your suggestion on "The Marginal Way" and Moose tours.

Paul & Bennnie - thanks also for the Acadia suggestions - we've read so much about this beautiful Natl. Park and can't wait to see and experience it.

Thanks! Marlena

I have to second Tracy on Old Orchard Beach...perhaps worth a walk, but not worthy of an overnight. One poster stated that Kennebunk and Ogunquit are crowded, and that is true...but I have only found it that way during July and August. They are beautiful areas, particulary Perkins Cove and the Marginal Way. I live on Cape Cod and I still make an annual trip up there!

I agree with Tracy about the inland lakes, especially Sebago. The foliage on Sebago is absolutely spectacular that time of year, and the place to spend a few days is Migis Lodge. Its not the least expensive place by any means, but it's all inclusive (3 meals and facilities), their cottages are quite luxurious and the food is exquisite. Family-owned, very friendly staff. I've been there with my family during the summer and was fortunate enough to go again for a wedding, its really an amazing spot. I would also recommend going to the Fryeburg Fair. Its Maine's largest and is usually happening during the height of the foliage season, a great reason to make an inland trip.
The coast isn't as good for foliage, but its still always beautiful. Portland is a great city, definitely worth a day or two. Camden/Rockport area is gorgeous, have only spent a little time there. The Inn at Ocean's Edge is a great spot just north of Camden (owned by the same folks as Migis Lodge I believe), well located relative to all the places you said you wanted to go.

I've read all the messages about Portland & the Maine coast with interest.We are planning on being there the second week in October.We'll stay about 3 nights in Portland and then a B&B or hotel on a beach till we get the train or bus to Boston.As we won't have a car,where would be the best place to stay?I like the sound of Ogunquit and York.Will things still be open in October? We are a senior couple from Scotland if that makes any difference!!What will the weather be like in October?
Any help much appreciated.

Since you say you enjoy maritime history, you should plan to visit the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath. I was there last summer, and thought it was very interesting and well done. Here's their website for more info:
http://www.bathmaine.com/

Topping for Marlena..
We are doing the same thing in September..
Great advice from all the posters!

hi marlena, you are getting some very good suggestions. i live in central maine so will offer ideas about my area.
first of all, is it possible to find a like priced ticket into either bangor or portland. both very small but excellent airports.
i love the whole maine coast once you get north of brunswick. the thing is you will find the history, antiquing, quaintness, etc in virtually every town. every lighthouse i've been to was an excellent adventure. translation - whereever you choose you will love.
re acadia. bar harbor is nice but seriously touristy. i've stayed at the bar harbor inn and it is indeed lovely. however, i recently took a sunday drive on mount desert island to the southwest harbor side. it is so much more peaceful and might be an alternative to bar harbor lodging.
you absolutely must drive over to schoodic point. it is spectacular.
re greenville/moosehead. i have to disagree about with tracey about moosehead/greenville "wilderness cabins". check out the following: www.greenvilleinn.com and www.lodgeatmooseheadlake.com - this place has the coolest rooms! and both have outstanding view of lake and mountains. also look at www.pleasantstinn.com and www.birches.com - birches is more 'rustic'.
fryeburg fair is first week in oct. a truely wonderful maine experience and worth it if you can alter your dates. (do you recall the movie 'state fair'? - it's a lot like that.) common ground is 9/21/22/23 this year and is another unique and entertaining way to spend part of a day.
if you want to do fryeburg start looking for a place to stay nearby today!! this is probably the most attended event in the state. if it's available stay at www.centerlovellinn.com in nearby lovell. a very nice b&b with fabulous dining room. you would be 5 mins from kezar lake which national geographic voted one of most beautiful lakes in US a few years back, with it's views of the white mountains for background.
for bethel look at the www.bethelinn.com this is a wonderful place in a pretty area but i don't know of much summer activity besides rafting in the area.
lastly, when you drive through maine try to avoid I95 as much as possible and rte 2 which is the main east-west road. good roads, but so crowded and you won't see real maine. we are a very well signed state and the back/country roads are easy to follow. once you choose your route i will be glad to suggest specific roads for you.

I'm jumping in here-- hope that's ok. Several posters have mentioned that they know the Bar Harbor Inn. We're planning on staying there, but I've been wondering whether to book a lodge room or a room in the main inn. (I've headed this question under my own name, but no one has responded.) I like the idea of having a fireplace (end of May/early June), but quiet and privacy are paramount to us. I have the feeling (could be mistaken) that the lodge accommodations somehow might be more quiet. Would love feedback. And have much appreciated the great in-put on this post. Thanks!

hi poss, sorry i didn't see your other post. the 2 sections are fairly close together. i doubt you would notice a big difference in noise, especially this time of year. i stayed in the lodge but mainly because i took my dog and she was not allowed in the main hotel. as you must enter the main inn rooms through the lobby this might affect your sense of privacy. each lodge room has private entrance from the outdoors. for the most privacy request 2nd floor room at far end of lodge. on the other hand since you are going before the season gets going and the rooms in the main inn are nicer and have those fireplaces i think i would go for an inn room.
be sure to take a stroll along the path going away from the town/hotel. passes a few of the "cottages".

Thanks so much for your reply, Virginia. I hadn't know that the lodge part of the inn was pet friendly. Ouch! I have extreme cat allergies. I wish that places that accepted pets would make that known to potential bookers. But no doubt the responsibility is mine also-- to ask. By the way, I'd been told that the most private/quiet part of the lodge would be those 3 rooms on the third floor. But I guess the point is moot now. I suppose it'd be a mistake for me to book anything in the lodge. I really appreciate your getting back to me.

Update: just spoke with the BH Inn. They assure me that the lodge hasn't accepted pets in at least three years. (I think the Newport Buidling does?) There's a "loft suite" available for the nights we'll be there. I think we may decide to book that if I can swallow the much higher rate. Would certainly be nice to have a fireplace and little sitting area in addition to the bedroom (which I think is quite small in that type room).

poss, as i recall i drove down in may with the dog and no reservation. as i recall they made an exception for trout and i, as i did not want to stay in the newport blding with no view. it was more like 5 yrs ago.
i think you will enjoy the fireplace. and the dining room has a stunning view.

Marlena:

Good ideas posted already...and to second or add to from our own trips: definite yes to Strawberry Banke (recreated pioneer village), Acadia Nat'l Pk...look for Thunder Hole (but town of Bar Harbor IS touristy), Ogonquit (incl. nice art museum), Cape Neddick Lighthouse (excellent ice cream nearby), Bangor and further up to Leonard's Mill (Bear Brew Pub in Orono for lunch). But you are too late for American Folk Festival in Bangor late August!

Nobody has yet mentioned L. L. Bean superstore at Freeport or Wedding Cake House in Kennibunk! Additional recommendation: very modestly priced Ship Ahoy motel overlooking Boothbay Harbor and nearby lobster boil at Robinson's Wharf near the bridge.

ozarksbill
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Last August we made our first visit to Maine. Our family managed to spend 6 whole days just in the Rockland area. We LOVED it.

We tried to avoid all the really crowded touristy areas. Looked at lighthouses (Port Clyde, Rockland and Owls Head,) took the boat from Port Clyde to Monhegan Island one day ( wear comfortable shoes and bring water- we saw lots of seals), toured the Olson house in Crushing where Andrew Wyeth painted all those famous paintings and visited the fantastic Farnsworth Museum in Rockland. The view from both the top of Camden Hills State Park and the walks along the shore are breathtaking. We enjoyed shopping at the Maine Prison Store in Thomaston. Each night our meals were taken outside at Cod's End and Dip Net. One is in Port Clyde and the other in Tenants Harbor but I can't remember which is which.

So, I guess I am suggesting spend a little time on the peninsula south of Rockland.

Hi Marlena,
As a native Mainer, I commend you on your ambitious itinerary. I think September is the best time to visit Maine. If you are willing to get off the "beaten path", you will discover some great places. Personally, I would skip Old Orchard Beach. Most Mainers avoid it. Portland is a must see (Old Port and Portland Head Light located at Fort Williams Park in Cape Elizabeth). I highly recommend Bath (drive to Phippsburg and historic Fort Popham), Wiscasset (Reds for the best lobster rolls) and Boothbay Harbor (drive the loop through Ocean Point). Follow Route 1 to Thomaston (check out the store run by the state prison; it's filled with prisoner projects like wood crafts, etc), Rockland (detour to Port Clyde), Rockport, Camden, Lincolnville, etc. The less visited Maine starts north of Belfast on Route 1. Check out Searsport, Bucksport (home of Fort Knox and a new bridge with an observation tower) and Castine (home of Maine Martime Academy). Deer Isle/Stonington is also great if you want to see a real working harbor. In addition, Deer Isle is home to the famous granite. If you look at the Select Registry site, you will find some great inns in that area. Do not miss the Schoodic Peninsula and the less visited section of Acadia NP. It is my favorite place in the state to view the Maine Coast. If you have time, Campobello is a great stop. A visit to Lubec and Quoddy Lighthouse should not be missed. Lubec is the most Eastern point in the US and many native Mainers never visit it. I think the Route 1 drive to Campobello could take your whole trip, but Greenville/Moosehead Lake is also a beautiful area if you want to head inland. There are many choices depending on your time and interest. Have a great trip!

helsinkigirl - do you happen to know how far a drive it is from Winter Harbor to the Bay of Fundy? We will be in WH for a week this summer and I was hoping to make this a day trip.

We visited Maine and Nova Scotia a few years ago in Sept. and stayed in Castine, Maine at the Castine Inn. By far some of the best dining we've had on our travels.

I also get seasick but I would not miss an opportunity to sail on the Lewis R French out of Camden. I get the patch. First trip was no problem, second trip I got royally seasick and put on the patch. 3rd & 4th trip put the patch on before going aboard and no problem. It is a wonderful sailing experience! First trip took 4 kids and a husband for 6 days! They offer 3, 4, or 6 day cruises.
The White Cedar Inn in Freeport is wonderful. In Daramiscotta the Tipsy Butler is the B & B of choice.

Just remembered the name of the other inn we visited - the Seaside Inn in Port Clyde. Really nice place with great hospitality and good food.

Hi Bennie,
The distance from Winter Harbor to the Bay of Fundy depends on where you are going. The BOF is a large area with the most popular sites located at Hopewell Rocks. This is the famous place where you can walk on the ocean floor. I vistited in 2001 and it is worth the trip. If you want to drive from Winter Harbor to Hopewell Rocks, it would be a very ambitious day trip. Winter Harbor to Calais is 91 miles on a two lane road. Depending on summer traffic, it could take up to two hours. Crossing into Canada at Calais/St. Stephen is usually quick, but at that point, you still have 200 miles to get to Hopewell Rocks. If you want to experience the "lower" BOF, check out St. Andrews by the Sea. There is a small blockhouse, town, and some other historical elements. I belive it is Canda's oldest seaside village with lots of maritime history. It's not far from St. John. Or, if you want an overnight, you could stay in St. John - it's a cute town on the water. I stayed at the Hilton and it was in a good location. Best of luck to you!

Thanks helsinkigirl - that's good to know. I started looking at maps and suspected that it was a bit further than I first thought. We may just have to wait on this - too many other things to do that are much closer.

I don't know how fancy you want your accomodations, but we stayed here: http://www.mooseheadlodging.com/

at Moosehead Lake and enjoyed it. (three or four years ago now). It's a gorgeous area, the room was clean (nothing fancy at all, but it was nice enough). What we liked most about the place was that it was right on the water and they had canoes and paddleboats you could just take out on the lake. For all I know other motels might have that too. Anyway, the lake area is beautiful and I'd recommend you make it part of your trip.

We just returned from Maine. We stayed at a B & B in Camdem that was recommendend here. It was the Timbercliffe Cottage Bed and Breakfast. We enjoyed our stay and liked the fact it was out of town about a mile. The owners of this B & B are delightful and the breakfasts were delicious. Route 1 (in South and North Maine) has so many antique stores you can't visit them all. We also enjoyed the Maritime Museum in Bath. One nice thing we enjoy about Maine is how many country roads there are. A few years ago we stayed in a condo outside of Bethel. The fall colors would probably be great up there. There are a lot of country roads up there with lots of places to hike and explore. There was a covered bridge by our condo. Also lots of antique stores in this area. Moose are also around this area. Enjoy your trip.

I just have to jump in here a bit in defense of Old Orchard Beach. Since you will be visiting Maine after tourist season, but while the weather is still pretty favorable, you may want to consider staying at the beach for a few days. OOB makes a great "home base" for several day trips and gives you the chance to start your day with a long walk on the beach. You can get some great rates at that time for a beachfront room or cottage. Most merchants stay open until Columbus Day, but the crowds are gone so you have the opportunity to enjoy the beach without all the sun worshipers. Once you get north of here you will be enjoying the rocky coast of Maine, but why not take a few days to enjoy the beach? From OOB you can do day trips into Portland, Freeport, Kittery or even Portsmouth, NH - and then end your day watching the surf from your balcony on the beach.

Just an idea, but I really think a lot of people don't appreciate Old Orchard and what it has to offer.