Mom/Daughter Trip Report San Francisco
Mar 17th, 2005, 03:05 PM
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Mom/Daughter Trip Report San Francisco
Trip Report, San Francisco, March 2005
For her 21st birthday, my husband and I gave my loves-to-travel daughter a four night trip to the city of her choice - with her mom. I did feel a little guilty about not taking dad and little sis along, but we two are the travel warriors in the family, and besides this would be special!
My happy girl (woman!) shopper chose San Francisco over NYC (she'd been there before). I found a great package on Expedia, airfare from Tampa plus four nights at the Pan Pacific Hotel for under $1000 for two. Nice! (I booked it about six weeks ahead of travel, two weeks later the package price had doubled - lucky me!)
We arranged for the Super Shuttle online, this worked out great. I questioned the pricing - first person $15, second $8. Not for me, they said, for residents only. Tourists must pay $15 per. No matter, this was still a great way for luggage-laden tourists to get into the city quickly.
The Pan Pacific was wonderful. I had read about the sterile atmosphere, but the location, cleanliness, and classiness of the rooms won us over immediately. Upon checkin (early at noonish) I tried requesting two doubles, but was told I had booked a king and would have to pay $25/night extra for the doubles. I declined, and we spread out in the big king with no problems. The room was a good size, with opening windows (I love that!!!), robes, flat screen tv, minibar, computer hookups, a great bathroom (also with tv if that matters to anyone). They are so into cleanliness in this hotel (which might be why it's deemed sterile by some): no ice machines available - they are kept in a locked room on each floor. Room service explained that "children sometimes get into them, and for your health and cleanliness we will be happy to bring you a bucket of ice". Also, the coffeemaker has a disposable filter and cup system, again for cleanliness. Makes you think! The hotel concierge recommended a "groovy place to celebrate a birthday" (Frisson, more on that later) and has a town car you can use - no reservations, you just have to go down to the bellhop and see if it's available. We did just that on our splurge evening, and for just a tip we were taken anywhere within two or three miles. My daughter thought she died and went to heaven (so did I!) with this perk.
Shop Til We Drop was the order of her day. We checked out shopping downtown at Union Square (designer, dept store, and everyday), Hayes Valley (boutique big bucks), Castro (mostly male boutiques and great food shops), Haight Ashbury (of course my old hippie soul loved this very reasonable shopping mecca), Ferry Building (boo hoo I had bad information: the Sunday produce-oriented Farmer's Market does not resume til April), Chinatown (absolutely great souvenirs). Although I was born without the shopping gene, I enjoyed the immense people watching in this bustling and very friendly city. The homeless were everywhere, but we were forewarned, and they were not aggressive. From passersby to bus drivers, to fellow diners, everyone was sooo nice.
Transport: this is a great city for getting around. A $15 MUNI pass was good for three days (which we stretched to a fourth day because almost nobody checked it) on all the cable cars, street cars, trains and buses. We took them all, too - they were easy to figure out and connected seamlessly. Of course we walked alot too, but our Florida legs definitely noticed those hills! Taxis were ridiculously expensive, unlike NYC.
Restaurants: (aaahhh....now we're getting to mom's favorite - I may not have a shopping gene but I definitely make up for it with the dining gene!)
Kuleto's for lunch on our first day - they set a new standard for calamari and salad! - wonderful.
R & G Lounge in Chinatown. We had a late and very tired (us) dinner, so did not fully appreciate the food, but the atmosphere was clean and friendly, the Mai Tai was perfect, and it was nice to see the staff all sit down together and eat at 10 PM at the big table next to us (what a hoot! they all used forks! I'm not so stupid after all!).
Fritz in Hayes Valley. Hot inside, so we grabbed the only outdoor table, and those fries were perfect, I can still taste them!
Sodini's Italian in North Beach, The atmosphere was great, very local, great waitress and bartender. Food was mediocre - the calamari was only rings, and not tender (especially after being spoiled by Kuleto's), wine list was miniscule. I had petitioned for North Beach, but was overridden by daughter's friend on this one. Hmmmm....will have to go back!
Cafe Greco for dessert in North Beach. Aaaahhh the tiramisu and cheesecake were wonderful, we enjoyed them as takeout.
Dottie's True Blue American, cafe near Union Square. This place was perfect for breakfast, the blackboard specials were awesome, real maple syrup on every table, and that All-American feel, San Fran style (that means with tattoos etc). We did have to wait in line, but that's how you know it's worth it, right?
Frisson. Our concierge had mistakenly made our res for the wrong night, however the restaurant was gracious in squeezing us in anyway. Boy what a scene. Buzzing with 20 and 30 somethings wearing their designer duds, a truly inventive drink list, beautiful furnishings, even an Ally McBeel unisex bathroom with a breakdancing attendant - all added to the sexy NOW appeal of this place. With a bar scene this trendy, I figured the food would be mediocre. But it wasn't - it was truly gourmet, with a sweetbread ravioli app that was heaven in a bowl. Ditto the duck and my daughter's lamb. Food portions were quite small, but that gave us excuses to order the mini desserts. Imagine a homemade Fudgesicle, and truffles with hot chocolate centers! See why I call it sexy?
Lori's Diner. We had breakfast at this forgettable place on Fisherman's Wharf.
Cafe De Paris L'Entrecote. The food was rich and delicious - we had the steak with frites. The waiter, a very young Frenchman who never smiled once, was rude to my daughter. Twice when she asked for something, he gave it to me instead. When he brought her the wrong soda, he rolled his eyes when she pointed it out. She asked for the heater to be turned on, we were on the patio and it was chilly. He turned it on, but in five minutes turned it off again. Brrrr!
Top Of The Mark. Of course we stopped for a drink, to toast the great town. My daughter counted 75 martini offerings (and then ordered a coke - she's all talk!). what a view!
Martuni's. Not food, but a gay cabaret/karaoke type place. We were warned by the concierge that it was "80% gay" but it was FUN! and we felt very welcome - and safe! I was kind of surprised my young gal would like the 70's music - but she did!
Farallon. We did not eat here, but I HAD to look. We were dressed up, so that may account for the friendly invite to walk through from the hostess. Truly a beautiful place, just amazing. But the restauranteur in me kept wondering "how can they make a profit with all this ART to pay for?"
All in all, a great trip and a memory that will last both our lifetimes. Life is sweet when you have great healthy kids! I can't wait til the next one turns 21!
P.S. Although I didn't post much, most of my questions and lists were attained from all you SF Fodorites. You know who you are - sometimes you post thinking you're helping one particular person, but there are many thankful lurkers out there taking in all that good juicy local info. Again, thanks very much!
For her 21st birthday, my husband and I gave my loves-to-travel daughter a four night trip to the city of her choice - with her mom. I did feel a little guilty about not taking dad and little sis along, but we two are the travel warriors in the family, and besides this would be special!
My happy girl (woman!) shopper chose San Francisco over NYC (she'd been there before). I found a great package on Expedia, airfare from Tampa plus four nights at the Pan Pacific Hotel for under $1000 for two. Nice! (I booked it about six weeks ahead of travel, two weeks later the package price had doubled - lucky me!)
We arranged for the Super Shuttle online, this worked out great. I questioned the pricing - first person $15, second $8. Not for me, they said, for residents only. Tourists must pay $15 per. No matter, this was still a great way for luggage-laden tourists to get into the city quickly.
The Pan Pacific was wonderful. I had read about the sterile atmosphere, but the location, cleanliness, and classiness of the rooms won us over immediately. Upon checkin (early at noonish) I tried requesting two doubles, but was told I had booked a king and would have to pay $25/night extra for the doubles. I declined, and we spread out in the big king with no problems. The room was a good size, with opening windows (I love that!!!), robes, flat screen tv, minibar, computer hookups, a great bathroom (also with tv if that matters to anyone). They are so into cleanliness in this hotel (which might be why it's deemed sterile by some): no ice machines available - they are kept in a locked room on each floor. Room service explained that "children sometimes get into them, and for your health and cleanliness we will be happy to bring you a bucket of ice". Also, the coffeemaker has a disposable filter and cup system, again for cleanliness. Makes you think! The hotel concierge recommended a "groovy place to celebrate a birthday" (Frisson, more on that later) and has a town car you can use - no reservations, you just have to go down to the bellhop and see if it's available. We did just that on our splurge evening, and for just a tip we were taken anywhere within two or three miles. My daughter thought she died and went to heaven (so did I!) with this perk.
Shop Til We Drop was the order of her day. We checked out shopping downtown at Union Square (designer, dept store, and everyday), Hayes Valley (boutique big bucks), Castro (mostly male boutiques and great food shops), Haight Ashbury (of course my old hippie soul loved this very reasonable shopping mecca), Ferry Building (boo hoo I had bad information: the Sunday produce-oriented Farmer's Market does not resume til April), Chinatown (absolutely great souvenirs). Although I was born without the shopping gene, I enjoyed the immense people watching in this bustling and very friendly city. The homeless were everywhere, but we were forewarned, and they were not aggressive. From passersby to bus drivers, to fellow diners, everyone was sooo nice.
Transport: this is a great city for getting around. A $15 MUNI pass was good for three days (which we stretched to a fourth day because almost nobody checked it) on all the cable cars, street cars, trains and buses. We took them all, too - they were easy to figure out and connected seamlessly. Of course we walked alot too, but our Florida legs definitely noticed those hills! Taxis were ridiculously expensive, unlike NYC.
Restaurants: (aaahhh....now we're getting to mom's favorite - I may not have a shopping gene but I definitely make up for it with the dining gene!)
Kuleto's for lunch on our first day - they set a new standard for calamari and salad! - wonderful.
R & G Lounge in Chinatown. We had a late and very tired (us) dinner, so did not fully appreciate the food, but the atmosphere was clean and friendly, the Mai Tai was perfect, and it was nice to see the staff all sit down together and eat at 10 PM at the big table next to us (what a hoot! they all used forks! I'm not so stupid after all!).
Fritz in Hayes Valley. Hot inside, so we grabbed the only outdoor table, and those fries were perfect, I can still taste them!
Sodini's Italian in North Beach, The atmosphere was great, very local, great waitress and bartender. Food was mediocre - the calamari was only rings, and not tender (especially after being spoiled by Kuleto's), wine list was miniscule. I had petitioned for North Beach, but was overridden by daughter's friend on this one. Hmmmm....will have to go back!
Cafe Greco for dessert in North Beach. Aaaahhh the tiramisu and cheesecake were wonderful, we enjoyed them as takeout.
Dottie's True Blue American, cafe near Union Square. This place was perfect for breakfast, the blackboard specials were awesome, real maple syrup on every table, and that All-American feel, San Fran style (that means with tattoos etc). We did have to wait in line, but that's how you know it's worth it, right?
Frisson. Our concierge had mistakenly made our res for the wrong night, however the restaurant was gracious in squeezing us in anyway. Boy what a scene. Buzzing with 20 and 30 somethings wearing their designer duds, a truly inventive drink list, beautiful furnishings, even an Ally McBeel unisex bathroom with a breakdancing attendant - all added to the sexy NOW appeal of this place. With a bar scene this trendy, I figured the food would be mediocre. But it wasn't - it was truly gourmet, with a sweetbread ravioli app that was heaven in a bowl. Ditto the duck and my daughter's lamb. Food portions were quite small, but that gave us excuses to order the mini desserts. Imagine a homemade Fudgesicle, and truffles with hot chocolate centers! See why I call it sexy?
Lori's Diner. We had breakfast at this forgettable place on Fisherman's Wharf.
Cafe De Paris L'Entrecote. The food was rich and delicious - we had the steak with frites. The waiter, a very young Frenchman who never smiled once, was rude to my daughter. Twice when she asked for something, he gave it to me instead. When he brought her the wrong soda, he rolled his eyes when she pointed it out. She asked for the heater to be turned on, we were on the patio and it was chilly. He turned it on, but in five minutes turned it off again. Brrrr!
Top Of The Mark. Of course we stopped for a drink, to toast the great town. My daughter counted 75 martini offerings (and then ordered a coke - she's all talk!). what a view!
Martuni's. Not food, but a gay cabaret/karaoke type place. We were warned by the concierge that it was "80% gay" but it was FUN! and we felt very welcome - and safe! I was kind of surprised my young gal would like the 70's music - but she did!
Farallon. We did not eat here, but I HAD to look. We were dressed up, so that may account for the friendly invite to walk through from the hostess. Truly a beautiful place, just amazing. But the restauranteur in me kept wondering "how can they make a profit with all this ART to pay for?"
All in all, a great trip and a memory that will last both our lifetimes. Life is sweet when you have great healthy kids! I can't wait til the next one turns 21!
P.S. Although I didn't post much, most of my questions and lists were attained from all you SF Fodorites. You know who you are - sometimes you post thinking you're helping one particular person, but there are many thankful lurkers out there taking in all that good juicy local info. Again, thanks very much!
Mar 17th, 2005, 03:38 PM
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Thank YOU, joan, for posting your thoughts and memories! Sometimes it feels like we are casting our advice into the wind. It's travelers like yourself who post a follow-up who make it worthwhile. Glad you liked our town.
Mar 17th, 2005, 03:46 PM
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>
< Wow! What a response!
KathrynT: Yes, but try it soon! I read on chowhound a rumor that Frisson's chefowner has moved on...
Faina: I can't afford you!
Grasshopper, thank you. Whew, one down, one to go.
Dovima, you're welcome! The pleasure was all mine!
< Wow! What a response!KathrynT: Yes, but try it soon! I read on chowhound a rumor that Frisson's chefowner has moved on...
Faina: I can't afford you!
Grasshopper, thank you. Whew, one down, one to go.
Dovima, you're welcome! The pleasure was all mine!
Mar 17th, 2005, 03:51 PM
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Thank you Joan! We are headed back to SF in a couple days to visit family and your post is making me want to go right now. I celebrated my 21st birthday ages ago in the city with my mom and still remember having drinks at various places and all the fun we had. I am sure your daughter will cherish the memory as well.
Mar 17th, 2005, 06:10 PM
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joan, I am so happy that you and your dear daughter had such a wonderful time in SF. It is my favorite place to be with my daughters.
Thank you for sharing your trip with all of us. You wrote a wonderful report. And do come back to SF!
Thank you for sharing your trip with all of us. You wrote a wonderful report. And do come back to SF!
Mar 17th, 2005, 06:57 PM
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Joan - what a wonderful read that was! Glad most of the trip met with approval and sounds like you two will have some fabulous memories.
I LOVE the fact that the two of you ventured to Martuni's and got a bit into the local scene.
Sometimes I think San Francisco is a bit like NYC in that sometimes we locals stick to our neighborhoods and don't venture cross-town enough. I have GOT to try some samples of those many martinis at the top of the Mark (never been and lived in the area all my life).
Thanks for the report!
I LOVE the fact that the two of you ventured to Martuni's and got a bit into the local scene.
Sometimes I think San Francisco is a bit like NYC in that sometimes we locals stick to our neighborhoods and don't venture cross-town enough. I have GOT to try some samples of those many martinis at the top of the Mark (never been and lived in the area all my life).
Thanks for the report!
Mar 17th, 2005, 07:29 PM
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Hi SFImporter, I sure have had martini's at the Top of the Mark but like you sometimes I cringe because travellers come to SF and go to places I never even think of going to.
So we can give advice to travellers and they in return can give us information about our own city. That is a good trade off, you think? LOL.
So we can give advice to travellers and they in return can give us information about our own city. That is a good trade off, you think? LOL.
Mar 17th, 2005, 07:33 PM
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Nice report! Mmmmm, R&G Lounge...my favorite Chinese (and I'm a Chicagoan). Funny when we went there it was very late also and the staff was eating along side us as well. I hope you had their special Salt & Pepper Crab.
I just love that town. And I'm so jealous my brother and sister-in-law moved there!
I just love that town. And I'm so jealous my brother and sister-in-law moved there!
Mar 19th, 2005, 03:44 PM
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Joan, You do know how to write a trip report!!I It was informative and you wrote a fun read. Aren't daughters wonderful. We are taking our 4 grandchildren to SF next week, and I'm going to ask FainaAgain about the shopping along Fillmore. The first thing my 16 year old granddaughter asked was "is there shopping". Thanks for providing me some Saturday pleasure. Owa
Mar 20th, 2005, 09:04 AM
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>>shopping along Fillmore<<
I'm a 30 year resident of SF or close by. Here are my wife's favorite shopping areas
-Fillmore between Jackson & Bush. This is the Pacific Heights neighbornood with lots of boutiques, restaurants, places for a Sunday brunch, etc
-Union St between Gough & Steiner. This is a little more touristy, but perhaps the most popular & picturesque shopping street. Many Victorian houses, & perhaps 15 or so Restaurants.
- Chestnut St between Fillmore & Broderick. This area is where the 20 & 30 somethings live & has many chain stores (Gap, etc), but lots of restaurants, bars, and it's really a "scene" on Sat night & Sunday morning. Every chain coffee shop (Starbucks, etc) in the US has a store here. There is a restaurant for every taste & budget.
- Fillmore street between Chestnut & Union. Chestnut & Union are only 4 blocks apart, and the usual shopping stroll is up & back on Union, north on Fillmore, and up & back on Chestnut. In case you think that you wan walk to the Fillmore section between Jackson & Bush - that is a VERY steep hill - Lanc Armstrong even complained about biking up the hill on the '01 Tour de SF bike race
- Noe Valley on 24th st between Chatanooga & Diamond st. This is perhaps my wife's favorite district (we used to live there also). No chain stores, but lots of very interesing shops. It's kind of half way between Haight/Ashbury district & Union St.
- Hayes St between Gough & Fillmore - lots of interesting stores. No chains at all. The OP talked about this
- Haight between Masonic & Stanyon. You will find everything here, except chain stores. The largest record store you are likely to find anywhere, tatoo parlors, unusual clothing shops, unusual anything/everything.
-Sacramento between Baker & Spruce. this is a very upscale area, and I doubt that a teenager would find anything interesting. Lots of high end designer shops & antique stores.
My choice & my wife's choice would be Fillmore St, Noe Valley, Union/Fillmore/Chestnut st trot.
Stu Dudley
I'm a 30 year resident of SF or close by. Here are my wife's favorite shopping areas
-Fillmore between Jackson & Bush. This is the Pacific Heights neighbornood with lots of boutiques, restaurants, places for a Sunday brunch, etc
-Union St between Gough & Steiner. This is a little more touristy, but perhaps the most popular & picturesque shopping street. Many Victorian houses, & perhaps 15 or so Restaurants.
- Chestnut St between Fillmore & Broderick. This area is where the 20 & 30 somethings live & has many chain stores (Gap, etc), but lots of restaurants, bars, and it's really a "scene" on Sat night & Sunday morning. Every chain coffee shop (Starbucks, etc) in the US has a store here. There is a restaurant for every taste & budget.
- Fillmore street between Chestnut & Union. Chestnut & Union are only 4 blocks apart, and the usual shopping stroll is up & back on Union, north on Fillmore, and up & back on Chestnut. In case you think that you wan walk to the Fillmore section between Jackson & Bush - that is a VERY steep hill - Lanc Armstrong even complained about biking up the hill on the '01 Tour de SF bike race
- Noe Valley on 24th st between Chatanooga & Diamond st. This is perhaps my wife's favorite district (we used to live there also). No chain stores, but lots of very interesing shops. It's kind of half way between Haight/Ashbury district & Union St.
- Hayes St between Gough & Fillmore - lots of interesting stores. No chains at all. The OP talked about this
- Haight between Masonic & Stanyon. You will find everything here, except chain stores. The largest record store you are likely to find anywhere, tatoo parlors, unusual clothing shops, unusual anything/everything.
-Sacramento between Baker & Spruce. this is a very upscale area, and I doubt that a teenager would find anything interesting. Lots of high end designer shops & antique stores.
My choice & my wife's choice would be Fillmore St, Noe Valley, Union/Fillmore/Chestnut st trot.
Stu Dudley
Mar 23rd, 2005, 06:12 AM
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Yes, Stu, as you might have guessed, I used some of your excellent dining recs...if only I'd thought to ask about shopping! (But then DD's debit card would be bouncing off the walls!)
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