Mlgb Southern Utah October Trip Report
Oct 15th, 2008, 03:51 PM
#1
Original Poster
Mlgb Southern Utah October Trip Report
I was able to make a VERY last minute trip to southern Utah between the two early storms. (Although the second storm caught up with three days of serious wind and then cold!). I relied on some of the information posted on others trip reports...especially from Myer, as I remember.
This probably isn't the typical Grand Circle trip because I've recently visited Zion, Monument Valley and Grand Canyon, and have NO interest in Las Vegas, other than as a place to gas up. But maybe it will be helpful for those looking for some less-visited side trips. I also spent a few days in Arches. I drove (by myself) and booked most hotels no more than a day ahead.
Day 1, approx 450 miles, 7 hours from Long Beach, California to Cedar City, Utah (Holiday Inn Express, south of town, easy to find, super clean). Sunday is always a good day to leave LA because you are going against the Las Vegas traffic. Advice: Fill up before you leave Nevada, gas in Utah is expensive!
Day 2, approx 300 miles : Side trip to "The Zipper" petroglyph in Parowan Gap. A bit out of the way, fascinating map and solar calendar. Parowan had an appealing small town aspect, but I did not stop.
Following scenic Rte 143 though Brian Head (snow and aspen trees!) and Cedar Breaks (snow on red cliffs..beautiful). Passing thru Dixie National Forest and the northern part of Bryce where I took the short Mossy Cave trail to the waterfall...a nice way to stretch the legs and a taste of hoodoos.
I continued on Scenic Byway 12, most impressive the "do not miss" leg between Escalante and Boulder. From Boulder I took the Burr Trail, including the hairy switchbacks, and the long (relatively dull after the first bit!) dirt road back up through Capitol Reef NP to Hwy 12. The section through narrow red-rock Long Canyon is a worthwhile detour if you don't do the whole thing. I have an AWD low-clearance car, but there were others in 2WD cars coming in the opposite direction. Don't do the switchbacks if you're not comfortable with mountain driving.
www.utah.com/offroad/burr-trail.htm
I spent the night in Torrey at the Rim Rock Inn, basic but decent. They have a popular and expensive restaurant. I drove a bit in to town and spied the Capitol Reef Inn & Cafe. Under $15 for perfectly cooked and seasoned tri-tip (can't remember if it came as a sandwich, but it had some sides, at least a potato and maybe veggies too).
This day was a bit too long and I should have added another night along the way somewhere near Boulder.
Day 3, Capitol Reef to Moab, 173 miles. I spent most of Day 3 in the north park of Capitol Reef, in the Fruta district and hiking to Hickman Bridge in the afternoon. I enjoyed picking the heirloom apples in two of the historic orchards. The best part was the free sampling to figure out which tree was the tastiest. Then I realized the red flags on the trees corresponded to the best trees. It was also interesting that some of the less interesting eating apples were great when microwaved and added to my morning oatmeal. Hickman Bridge was easily as good as any of the Arches bridges, especially as you are not restricted from walking underneath it, and because it wasn't swarmed with other tourists.
I had two nights at the Red Cliffs Lodge, on Rt 128 east of Moab, toward the Fisher towers. Their restaurant was very good and not badly priced for the quality (and quantity). (I recommend the trout). This is a great place to stay, although it's a shame when you feel you have to chose between seeing Arches and enjoying the Lodge's activities. The only caution is that the Lodge's own water supply has a musty, mildewy smell which transfers to the linens.
Day 4-5-6 Arches/Canyonlands
I won't go over all of the Arches and Canyonlands stuff, since it has been well covered, except to say I misread the rating on Double O Arch trail..it's strenuous, not moderate! There is exposure as you hike along the tops of several rock ledges, and climb up and down them, and one rather scary crack that you have to step across...I had to ask for a stranger to give me a hand on the way over it. The wind came up for the next three days, so I was not up to hiking to Delicate Arch in 40 mpg. So can anyone answer this question...Delicate Arch..is the ledge more scary than Double O's rock ledges?
Also, if you like rock art, pick up or print out the Moab rock art information. The Courthouse Rock pictograph is virtually across the highway from the Canyonlands by Night parking lot. Also the Kane Creek trip to the Birthing Rock is scenic and you'll see much of the same scenery as you will from the Canyonlands jet boat.
I enjoyed Walker Drug, a real old-school five-and-dime store. You can burn your photos to a CD for all of $4, and they actually had a memory card for my old Olympus which I haven't been able to find in years. City Market (south of town center) is a Kroger brand, they have a good salad bar and a Starbucks. One morning over the holiday weekend there was a line of about 15 or 20 hardcore mountain bike types trying to get their fix...the funniest thing was the store manager sneaking a photo of them.
I also had two nights in Moab at the Sleep Inn, which was serviceable and clean, not too expensive, but at the south end of town. Be sure to get a top floor room or you may be so unlucky as to get noisy German tourists that come in at 1 am and stomp around and slam doors above you, requiring a call to the front desk.
Day 7, 200 miles, Moab to Kayenta via Blanding and Hovenweep NM
South of Moab you can see Wilson Arch without even leaving the car. On the way to Hovenweep, Blanding has a sweet little Pioneer museum and a helpful visitor center (which gives you a free snack pack). They can give directions to some of the cliff dwellings in Southern Utah such as "House on Fire". I went to Hovenweep, which has unrestored Anasazi ruins on the mesa top (not tucked under cliffs). The loop trail that goes down into the canyon is well worth the time it takes to get to Hovenweep from the main road. Spring and Fall are the best times to visit. That night I spent at the overpriced Holiday Inn Kayenta (options are limited on short notice). The cheapest gas of the trip was in Kayenta, $3.15 per gallon.
Day 8, Kayenta to Scottsdale. 300 miles, 6-7 hrs. I made a brief stop at Wupatki NM, but it was less impressive than Hovenweep. Earlier this year, a friend suggested that I should see Sedona. Big mistake. Swarming with people and traffic, Sunday of a holiday weekend and road construction all over the place. I stopped at the Oak Creek Canyon overlook, crept through Sedona without stopping, and ended up at the Scottsdale Hotel Indigo. More road construction in Scottsdale. What is it with road construction in Arizona! I liked the hotel, which is downtown rather than a resort. However there was slight noise intrusion from a nearby nightclub. The hotel's food was pretty bad, but at least it was gratis thanks to Travelzoo.
Day 9, Scottsdale to Palm Springs (Indian Wells), 290 miles, 4 to 5 hours. In the morning I just made it to the 9AMm 90-minute Insights Tour at Taliesin West. This is a don't miss/worth a special trip experience if you have any interest in Frank Lloyd Wright or architecture in general. It was the redeeming feature of my Arizona leg, (along with temp's in the 70's and cheap gas).
After the tour, I happily left Arizona behind and headed for my favorite Priceline/Hotwire hotel, the Hyatt Grand Champions in Indian Wells (Palm Springs area).
Day 10, Indian Wells to Long Beach (125 miles, 2 hrs). Temps in the desert were perfect, 70's to 80's, there were NO children!!! screaming at the pools. The spa/fitness center is always a treat. I won't go into detail since it's a California location, but if you're doing a circle from LA, it's a nice spot to end the trip.
This probably isn't the typical Grand Circle trip because I've recently visited Zion, Monument Valley and Grand Canyon, and have NO interest in Las Vegas, other than as a place to gas up. But maybe it will be helpful for those looking for some less-visited side trips. I also spent a few days in Arches. I drove (by myself) and booked most hotels no more than a day ahead.
Day 1, approx 450 miles, 7 hours from Long Beach, California to Cedar City, Utah (Holiday Inn Express, south of town, easy to find, super clean). Sunday is always a good day to leave LA because you are going against the Las Vegas traffic. Advice: Fill up before you leave Nevada, gas in Utah is expensive!
Day 2, approx 300 miles : Side trip to "The Zipper" petroglyph in Parowan Gap. A bit out of the way, fascinating map and solar calendar. Parowan had an appealing small town aspect, but I did not stop.
Following scenic Rte 143 though Brian Head (snow and aspen trees!) and Cedar Breaks (snow on red cliffs..beautiful). Passing thru Dixie National Forest and the northern part of Bryce where I took the short Mossy Cave trail to the waterfall...a nice way to stretch the legs and a taste of hoodoos.
I continued on Scenic Byway 12, most impressive the "do not miss" leg between Escalante and Boulder. From Boulder I took the Burr Trail, including the hairy switchbacks, and the long (relatively dull after the first bit!) dirt road back up through Capitol Reef NP to Hwy 12. The section through narrow red-rock Long Canyon is a worthwhile detour if you don't do the whole thing. I have an AWD low-clearance car, but there were others in 2WD cars coming in the opposite direction. Don't do the switchbacks if you're not comfortable with mountain driving.
www.utah.com/offroad/burr-trail.htm
I spent the night in Torrey at the Rim Rock Inn, basic but decent. They have a popular and expensive restaurant. I drove a bit in to town and spied the Capitol Reef Inn & Cafe. Under $15 for perfectly cooked and seasoned tri-tip (can't remember if it came as a sandwich, but it had some sides, at least a potato and maybe veggies too).
This day was a bit too long and I should have added another night along the way somewhere near Boulder.
Day 3, Capitol Reef to Moab, 173 miles. I spent most of Day 3 in the north park of Capitol Reef, in the Fruta district and hiking to Hickman Bridge in the afternoon. I enjoyed picking the heirloom apples in two of the historic orchards. The best part was the free sampling to figure out which tree was the tastiest. Then I realized the red flags on the trees corresponded to the best trees. It was also interesting that some of the less interesting eating apples were great when microwaved and added to my morning oatmeal. Hickman Bridge was easily as good as any of the Arches bridges, especially as you are not restricted from walking underneath it, and because it wasn't swarmed with other tourists.
I had two nights at the Red Cliffs Lodge, on Rt 128 east of Moab, toward the Fisher towers. Their restaurant was very good and not badly priced for the quality (and quantity). (I recommend the trout). This is a great place to stay, although it's a shame when you feel you have to chose between seeing Arches and enjoying the Lodge's activities. The only caution is that the Lodge's own water supply has a musty, mildewy smell which transfers to the linens.
Day 4-5-6 Arches/Canyonlands
I won't go over all of the Arches and Canyonlands stuff, since it has been well covered, except to say I misread the rating on Double O Arch trail..it's strenuous, not moderate! There is exposure as you hike along the tops of several rock ledges, and climb up and down them, and one rather scary crack that you have to step across...I had to ask for a stranger to give me a hand on the way over it. The wind came up for the next three days, so I was not up to hiking to Delicate Arch in 40 mpg. So can anyone answer this question...Delicate Arch..is the ledge more scary than Double O's rock ledges?
Also, if you like rock art, pick up or print out the Moab rock art information. The Courthouse Rock pictograph is virtually across the highway from the Canyonlands by Night parking lot. Also the Kane Creek trip to the Birthing Rock is scenic and you'll see much of the same scenery as you will from the Canyonlands jet boat.
I enjoyed Walker Drug, a real old-school five-and-dime store. You can burn your photos to a CD for all of $4, and they actually had a memory card for my old Olympus which I haven't been able to find in years. City Market (south of town center) is a Kroger brand, they have a good salad bar and a Starbucks. One morning over the holiday weekend there was a line of about 15 or 20 hardcore mountain bike types trying to get their fix...the funniest thing was the store manager sneaking a photo of them.
I also had two nights in Moab at the Sleep Inn, which was serviceable and clean, not too expensive, but at the south end of town. Be sure to get a top floor room or you may be so unlucky as to get noisy German tourists that come in at 1 am and stomp around and slam doors above you, requiring a call to the front desk.
Day 7, 200 miles, Moab to Kayenta via Blanding and Hovenweep NM
South of Moab you can see Wilson Arch without even leaving the car. On the way to Hovenweep, Blanding has a sweet little Pioneer museum and a helpful visitor center (which gives you a free snack pack). They can give directions to some of the cliff dwellings in Southern Utah such as "House on Fire". I went to Hovenweep, which has unrestored Anasazi ruins on the mesa top (not tucked under cliffs). The loop trail that goes down into the canyon is well worth the time it takes to get to Hovenweep from the main road. Spring and Fall are the best times to visit. That night I spent at the overpriced Holiday Inn Kayenta (options are limited on short notice). The cheapest gas of the trip was in Kayenta, $3.15 per gallon.
Day 8, Kayenta to Scottsdale. 300 miles, 6-7 hrs. I made a brief stop at Wupatki NM, but it was less impressive than Hovenweep. Earlier this year, a friend suggested that I should see Sedona. Big mistake. Swarming with people and traffic, Sunday of a holiday weekend and road construction all over the place. I stopped at the Oak Creek Canyon overlook, crept through Sedona without stopping, and ended up at the Scottsdale Hotel Indigo. More road construction in Scottsdale. What is it with road construction in Arizona! I liked the hotel, which is downtown rather than a resort. However there was slight noise intrusion from a nearby nightclub. The hotel's food was pretty bad, but at least it was gratis thanks to Travelzoo.
Day 9, Scottsdale to Palm Springs (Indian Wells), 290 miles, 4 to 5 hours. In the morning I just made it to the 9AMm 90-minute Insights Tour at Taliesin West. This is a don't miss/worth a special trip experience if you have any interest in Frank Lloyd Wright or architecture in general. It was the redeeming feature of my Arizona leg, (along with temp's in the 70's and cheap gas).
After the tour, I happily left Arizona behind and headed for my favorite Priceline/Hotwire hotel, the Hyatt Grand Champions in Indian Wells (Palm Springs area).
Day 10, Indian Wells to Long Beach (125 miles, 2 hrs). Temps in the desert were perfect, 70's to 80's, there were NO children!!! screaming at the pools. The spa/fitness center is always a treat. I won't go into detail since it's a California location, but if you're doing a circle from LA, it's a nice spot to end the trip.
Oct 17th, 2008, 03:49 AM
#2
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Wow! Quite the trip! Too bad about Sedona lately. If I win the lottery, I'm going to buy the Capital Reef Inn and fix it up 
You're lucky to be in driving distance from the Colorado Plateau.
Thanks for the report.
You're lucky to be in driving distance from the Colorado Plateau.
Thanks for the report.
Oct 17th, 2008, 06:15 AM
#3
You did have quite a trip.
I hiked Delicate Arch twice; once the evening we got there when it was cloudy and 2 days later under a cloudless sky.
I don't remember anything difficult about the hike and I only do easy.
It was however, quite strenuous as it's all uphill going. Obvioudly it's downhill coming back.
In my opinion, anybody can do it if you drink water, walk slowly and stop to rest if you are winded (remember, it's in elevation). It's probably easier after a few days in elevation.
I really don't remember any ledges where you are forced to be near the edge.
I have to say that the setting for Delicate Arch is absolutely unbelievable. It's almost like it was built. The amphitheatre setting and sunset are amazing.
I didn't see the view from the distant lookout but it cannot compare.
I hiked Delicate Arch twice; once the evening we got there when it was cloudy and 2 days later under a cloudless sky.
I don't remember anything difficult about the hike and I only do easy.
It was however, quite strenuous as it's all uphill going. Obvioudly it's downhill coming back.
In my opinion, anybody can do it if you drink water, walk slowly and stop to rest if you are winded (remember, it's in elevation). It's probably easier after a few days in elevation.
I really don't remember any ledges where you are forced to be near the edge.
I have to say that the setting for Delicate Arch is absolutely unbelievable. It's almost like it was built. The amphitheatre setting and sunset are amazing.
I didn't see the view from the distant lookout but it cannot compare.
Oct 17th, 2008, 09:56 AM
#5
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FWIW here's a shot of the scariest portion of the Delicate Arch Hike. It is pretty tame really and is only a short stretch.
http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/34945817
http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/34945817
Oct 17th, 2008, 10:05 AM
#6
I remember the spot as shown in Peter's photo.
Notice that it's a good 4-5 feet from the edge.
That photo was taken about 20 feet from the Delicate Arch sight. It's right in front of the person to the right.
Good photo!!
Notice that it's a good 4-5 feet from the edge.
That photo was taken about 20 feet from the Delicate Arch sight. It's right in front of the person to the right.
Good photo!!
Oct 18th, 2008, 01:00 AM
#7
Original Poster
If I can hug a wall I'm happy. On those fins I just stared at the trail and pretended it was a sidewalk.
I have photos on Picasa
http://picasaweb.google.com/kiwifann/MoabUtahArea2008#
http://picasaweb.google.com/kiwifann...ionalMonument#
http://picasaweb.google.com/kiwifann...ksCapitolReef#
I have photos on Picasa
http://picasaweb.google.com/kiwifann/MoabUtahArea2008#
http://picasaweb.google.com/kiwifann...ionalMonument#
http://picasaweb.google.com/kiwifann...ksCapitolReef#
Oct 18th, 2008, 04:52 AM
#8
mlgb,
Some great photos. Many are exactly what I saw.
I was very interested in your photos of Fisher Towers.
I decided to hike the trail and when we turned the corner to face it we saw some rock climbers at the top of the cosk screw.
Amazing!!!!
I notice that you saw Delicate Arch from the distant viewpoint.
Again, if you get the chance in the future do the actual hike. Other than uphill all the way, nothing difficult.
Some great photos. Many are exactly what I saw.
I was very interested in your photos of Fisher Towers.
I decided to hike the trail and when we turned the corner to face it we saw some rock climbers at the top of the cosk screw.
Amazing!!!!
I notice that you saw Delicate Arch from the distant viewpoint.
Again, if you get the chance in the future do the actual hike. Other than uphill all the way, nothing difficult.
Oct 18th, 2008, 10:36 AM
#10
Original Poster
It is hard to take a photo that hasn't been done before, isn't it? I enjoyed yours both. Peter you had some great clouds!
I think this photo gives me a better idea on Delicate Arch. I'm going to need a new camera with the shake-proofing but I can't wait to go back.
http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/34945829
I think this photo gives me a better idea on Delicate Arch. I'm going to need a new camera with the shake-proofing but I can't wait to go back.
http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/34945829
Oct 18th, 2008, 06:41 PM
#12
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I enjoyed your report and the wonderful photos, Mlgb. We are planning a trip (from Australia) in your Spring - our third time to Moab. We'll drive up from LA to Vegas, then a few days each in Cedar City, Torrey and Moab, with a lo-o-ng freeway drive back from Moab to Vegas, before back to LA. Utah has the most amazing scenery, and the driving is relatively easy. We love it.
I was thinking of giving up some precious time in Cedar City to visit the petroglyphs out of Parawon. Do you think it is worth it, considering all the other wonderful sights in the area and our limited time? We will of course see other petroglyphs in Capitol Reef and around Moab.
I'm hoping that the snow will have melted enough for us to get to Cedar Breaks. Thanks.
I was thinking of giving up some precious time in Cedar City to visit the petroglyphs out of Parawon. Do you think it is worth it, considering all the other wonderful sights in the area and our limited time? We will of course see other petroglyphs in Capitol Reef and around Moab.
I'm hoping that the snow will have melted enough for us to get to Cedar Breaks. Thanks.
Oct 18th, 2008, 07:02 PM
#13
Original Poster
Thanks, Carabella. If you're spending the night in Cedar City it takes maybe an hour or a bit longer round trip. The site is fenced off so you can't get right up next to it, but it's right next to the road. There are so many other great things to see it's hard to say what's "worth it" especially coming so far from Australia.
If you go, be careful to get local directions, the internet map sites aren't necessarily correct. And there is no interpretation at the site itself, so you'll want to read up on it ahead of time.
Info: http://www.parowan.org/city/pgap/
If you go, be careful to get local directions, the internet map sites aren't necessarily correct. And there is no interpretation at the site itself, so you'll want to read up on it ahead of time.
Info: http://www.parowan.org/city/pgap/
Jun 6th, 2016, 09:28 AM
#14
Original Poster
I know as self-appointed moderator janisj will be unhappy that I topped an old report (LOL) but here is the new link to The Zipper and Parowan Gap
http://parowan.org/parowan-gap/
Also here is an updated link to the Picasa album that includes the Burr Trail and Capitol Reef at the south end
https://picasaweb.google.com/1053023...aksCapitolReef
http://parowan.org/parowan-gap/
Also here is an updated link to the Picasa album that includes the Burr Trail and Capitol Reef at the south end
https://picasaweb.google.com/1053023...aksCapitolReef
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