Daniel Williams

HI

I went back up to Philadelphia for a day trip yesterday with a friend of mine. Had a great time again...so it seems like Philly is a good Saturday AND Sunday destination. Chinatown was quite lively just as it had been my last trip. We went to a reasonably priced, tasty Chinese vegetarian restaurant on 1010 Cherry St. (see if you can find one of these in Baltimore!). I picked up Zagat's restaurant guide to Philadelphia, which the Wall Street Journal calls the gastronomic bible of restaurants. The review for 1010 Cherry St. resto was right-on. I will use this book and recommend others to use this on their future trips. I also re-visited a Chinese supermarket on Arch just off 10th (I'll have to copy down the name next time)...got the soft rice cake with sweet bean filling that I like again.

My friend was as very impressed as myself with the diversity of the city. On my last trip, there was an African-American cultural exposition on Penn's Landing; this time Latino American expo. These communities seem to be well-established in Philadelphia, as does the Chinese. My friend also loved the architecture, particularly in the Old City, but also City Hall and (yes) the Chrysler Building.

Last trip, I enjoyed the Old City. This time I discovered that I love the gorgeous rowhouses and narrow streets of the neighborhoods between Market St. and South St. on 12th and 11th St. They have such a REAL lived-in urban reighborhood charm about them. People were sitting out in front of cafés savouring the gorgeous weather. The narrow streets make me think there's a fair amount of history there, because such streets could not have been intended for cars...

One last comment. I don't know why some people think Philadelphians are rude. I've found people quite warm generally speaking in my interactions with them.

Happy travelling, Dan.

Kimo

Can you tell us the best place to buy some crack while we are there? It's obvious that you smoked some before you posted.

Paul Rabe

As a former resident of Iowa, now living in Philadelphia, I found Daniel's description of the place right on. Except that I would have no problem finding rude people, his travelogue is accurate and precise.

Is Philly at the top of my list of US places to visit? No. Is it as bad as many people want to make it? An even stronger no.

Dave

Living near Phila, I have to agree with Dan. There are a lot of good attractions, events, and restaurants. And we do like "Cherry Street Vegetarian".

I am not a shill, and I don't use crack.

Daniel Williams

Hi

I too do not use crack. As far as being first on my list for places to visit? Probably if I lived outside the Mid Atlantic, I might not go out of my way to visit the city. BUT I will tell you, living in Baltimore, I've discovered that it is my #1 favorite day trip from the city. As far as urban dynamics, walkability, funkiness, diversity, people-watching, efficient public transport, cultural opportunities (art museums, music, dance) I honestly believe it can't be beat for a day destination from here (I do like DC as well, but I prefer Philly). Going north along the East Coast, the first dynamic Chinatown you'll find is in none other than Philadelphia (DC has a tiny Chinatown). But I think its biggest draw is as a place to LIVE...the only other cities in America that have all the above ALSO carry a heftier price tag. Not to say that's Philly's cheap...but my understand is it is less so than NYC, Boston, DC, San Francisco, Seattle, Chicago...

I'm telling you, one of those gorgeous rowhouses in Center City has my name on it.

Dan.

Pat

Another good post, trying to capture the flavor of Philly. Also try a walk along the west side of Center City. Rittenhouse Square is nice for people watching. I also like 20th Street. Not particularly scenic, but I love Hot Tamales for cheap Mexican food, also Nuts to You for fresh roasted peanuts or Swedish fish by the pound (a little hole in the wall place, but fun). There is also a little Italian restaurant Porcini (or at least I think it's still there), I think on Sansom St. It's BYOB and the food is fresh and reasonable.
You might enjoy some of the movies filmed in the area too. It's fun to pick out the places you recognize. Trading Places, the Sixth Sense, and of course Rocky are a few that come to mind. Can't wait to see Unbreakable! (Did I get that title right?)

Daniel Williams

Hi

Thanks for your suggestions; I look forward to checking out Rittenhouse Square and some more of western Center City. BTW I made one mistake in my post. The Chinese supermarket is located on Race St. just off 10th, not Arch St. I still can't remember the name of the market (something like Cheung May?)

Joe

Dan, I lived in Philadelphia for 12 years - - until 1993 - - and agree that it's a great place. A favoarite restaurant is Victor's Cafe in S. Philly. The food is good, especially the raviolli netuno and veal dishes, and the ambience is one of a kind. The waiters are music students and sing (mostly opera) between waiting tables. And a great musuem is the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts. The building is a Victorian masterpiece, and the whole place is turned into a gallery in May, showing and selling students' work. I should add that the Chrysler Bldg is in NYC, but the building you saw, One Logan Place, is a great 1980s evocation of the original. It was the first building higher than the Wm. Penn statue on City Hall and was designed by Helmut Jann.
Joe

Erika

I love Philly! I used to live in South Jersey (please no comments.. I have heard them all and they are old to be frank) about twenty mins from Philly. It was my teenage stomping ground. Young people enjoy a night on South Street. Always good fun. And one suggestion-- eat a Philly pretzel while you are there and canolis (dunno spelling) should not be missed! They are great! I love boathouse row.. especially at night.

And by the way, I lived in Japan (not that you are all interested) and the majority of Japanese I met thought that all Americans carry guns all the time. Are all people in Philly on crack? I doubt it. Geez, half the people I went to college with here at my preppy mid-west college were always high.. let's try to be open minded!

Daniel Williams

Hi

Pat--I thought you might be interested in Zagat's review of Porcini resto in S. Philly (0-9 poor-fair, 10-15 fair-good, 16-19 good to very good, 20-25 very good , 26-30 extraordinary to perfection. Food:24 Decor: 13 Service: 19. "Sardines have more room" than patrons at this "awesome" Italian BYO in Center City. Those who endure "close quarters" are rewarded with "sublime" fare prepared with "loving care" and attention from "wacky" owners who treat everyone like an "old friend".

Sound like a fab resto. I love these ZagatSurvey guides...I find not only are their reviews completely accurate but absolutely hilariously written. Check them out and judge for yourself. The above review is from their 2000/2001 Philadelphia restaurant guide (check out www.zagat.com); they have for many other guides for US as well as a few foreign cities.

Joe--Victor Café got a pretty good review as well.

At least I know you guys have good taste. Oh...I did try a pretzel from an Amish stand at the Reading Terminal Market my first visit, Erika. Highly recommend all go to Reading Terminal Market...the market is brimming with character and seems like it has some pretty swell food options.

Thanks again for your resto thoughts. Nothing I love more than good food!

Dan.

Pat

Dan- I love the Reading Terminal! Try 12th Street Cantina for great Mexican food. Their sweet-potato enchiladas are great. But I must admit I have never gotten a pretzel there. The best in my opinion are from the sidewalk carts. (My favorite vendor, Gus at 16th and Locust) Also the roadside vendors, just don't think about where they wash their hands! And please, only WITH mustard!
Thanks for the info on Porcini. It is very small and don't go there on a hot day. A/C overload!

Daniel Williams

Hi

I bring this post back to the top because I went up to Philly for the weekend, this time spending the Saturday night at a hotel THERE.

Every time I go I love the city more and more. I checked out some new parts that others had recommended. This time I went to South St. between 2nd and 10th, the Rittenhouse Square area and walked to the Philadelphia Art Museum passing by Logan Circle, in addition to requisite stops at the Reading Terminal Market and Chinatown.

South St. is in my opinion without doubt one of the most interesting streets I've seen in America; eclectic, "funky" yet stylish fashions are everywhere and seem almost de rigueur in this part of town. Although this street has a significant emphasis on teenagers and those in their early 20s, I nevertheless think it's fun for all ages, with plenty of cafes, good shopping, fabulous people-watching and restaurants.

The Rittenhouse Square area definitely seems the place where people go for more upscale shopping. I found the park at Rittenhouse very relaxing with plenty of benches and sculptures. My friend and I sat, kicked our feet back and people-watched; kids were scooting around on that new popular scooter-thing, roller bladers passed by and fun, but more high-end fashions walked by all the time. Is it just me, but do many more Philadelphians know how to dress or what? DC and Baltimore just don't seem to have quite the fashion savoir-faire... As we sat, we bemoaned the fact that Baltimore has nowhere like Rittenhouse Square.

The Philadelphia Art Museum I think was one of the best I've ever been to. AND it's free if you go on Sunday before 1 pm. I particularly liked the period rooms; at many art museums I've been to, paintings and artifacts are simply lined up on walls for one to observe. Here there were rooms that were decorated entirely like various periods, i.e., a Spanish Renaissance room, an Italian renaissance room, etc... Bravo to the curators on a great job, to bring people's eyes to a greater understanding of earlier time periods, to see how some people really lived in yonder years. I also liked the exhibit on medieval armor; how did people wear those things? There was also a special exhibit on Japanese artist Koetsi (sp?), which highlighted the 1500s and 1600s Japanese art...what I saw intrigued me, but I rushed through because I was hungry!

Logan Circle is an absolutely gorgeous fountain by the way, with water spouting out of cute frogs and turtles. If you're passing close to it on a nice day, I recommend giving it a look.

Earlier I said "probably if I lived outside the Mid Atlantic, I might not go out of my way to visit Philly". Now that I know the city even better, I wish to retract that statement. Below is my NEW, REVISED statement:

I now believe Center City Philadelphia is a must-see from any starting point...it's more than worth a visit in its own right, not only as a "side trip" from NYC or DC. I've now been 4 times and I feel like I'm just scratching the surface on restaurants to try, shops, nightlife, museums, cultural events.

Happy travelling DAN

Pat

Dan,
Another idea for you- visit Center City at Christmas time. There is a cute Dickens Christmas Carol display in Strawbridges at the Gallery, the Septa Museum usually has a Xmas train display and you can hear the organ at Lord and Taylor (formerly Wanamaker's). The organ is phenomonal. It makes a fun day.
Also, the Art Museum is having a Van Gogh portrait show. If you get there before I do, post and let us know how it is.
One Philly area you may want to drive through is Chestnut Hill. Mt Airy which is adjacent to there was recently named as one of the top 14 successful integrated communities in the US- many artsy types but also working class. Lots of beautiful old stone houses and nice stores. I don't think it's too far from Manayunk if you ever get up that way.

Daniel Williams

Thanks as always for your suggestions Pat. A friend of mine wanted me to go see Chestnut Hill also, saying some of the houses are simply gorgeous there. Unfortunately I won't be in Philly this Xmas (going to Nassau, the Bahamas!), but I'll try to check it out another year.

One very important thing I forgot to mention to potential travellers is that one of the great things about the Philadelphia Art Museum is the superb view of the city from the top of the steps.

Denise

I have lived in the Philly area for 9 years now, and just moved into Center City this year, in the Rittenhouse Area. This section of town is mostly residential and lacks touristy attractions....but if you enjoy quaint streets with beautiful old row homes, this is a great area to walk through. Stroll down Delancey Street from 20th through 23rd streets and you will be amazed at the homes that line the streets! It is by far one of my favorite streets in the city. (be careful b/c the sreet stops and starts again between the numbered streets).

If you like tours, definitely try the Lights of Liberty tour - it is a fantastic special effects tour in which guides lead you around old city while you listen (and watch - thanks to the special effects) to the history of Philadelphia. The Trolley tours are worth a trip as well - try the mansion tour - I tried it the last time my parents came to visit and we enjoyed it.

One of my favorite museums is the Franklin Institute, which is an interactive Science museum - great for kids and adults alike. Also one of my favorites is the movie theater there which features a curve-around screen to make you feel like you are in the movie yourself.

As far as food goes, we have some of the best restaurants in the country. Some good ones are Roccoco, Audrey Claire, Smith and Wollensky, The Blue Angel, D'Mitris, and Cutters. And if you enjoy Sunday brunch, you must go to the Omni Hotel - their Brunch buffet is unbelievable!

Sure there are down sides to the city, but if you keep to the right areas, you will be pleasantly surprised at what you see. Philadelphia is unique and one of the most historically rich cities you can visit in the U.S.

And it's only getting better.