KAUAI TRIP REPORT...ST. REGIS PRINCEVILLE AND THE NORTH SHORE
Aug 13th, 2013, 07:48 PM
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KAUAI TRIP REPORT...ST. REGIS PRINCEVILLE AND THE NORTH SHORE
I wrote a huge report a few nights ago and tried to submit it... And it disappeared! So I'll try again.
This was my first time to Kauai and I can't imagine any other island being as gorgeous as this one. I traveled all over the island while I was there, and in my opinion, the North Shore is the most beautiful part of the island. The mountains are breathtaking. I was worried about the rain on the North Shore, but the weather was perfect. There are clouds at times, but they pass within minutes. There was an occasional shower, but it would pass in 5-10 minutes, followed by sunshine and rainbows.
Day 1- after ten hours of flying and a six hour time difference, we were exhausted. We rented a convertible at the airport in Lihue and checked in. The St. Regis is extremely expensive, but if you can stomach the cost, or are willing to splurge for a special occasion, it's a place you won't forget. Perched on a cliff overlooking Hanalei Bay with the majestic mountains front and center, you have gorgeous views from the lobby, terraces, and most rooms. We hung out at the pool for a few hours (and had my first Mai Tai...yum!,,) and then ordered sandwiches to go from room service and took our food down to the beach and sat under a Mangrove tree, and watched the sunset. One of my favorite things about the beaches here are the beautiful trees that provide lots of shade right on the sand.
Day 2- jet lag. Ugh. Slept poorly but still excited to be here. Had a delicious breakfast on the terrace at the St. Regis overlooking the water and the gorgeous, lush mountains. My husband golfed at the Prince course, and said he liked it better than Pebble Beach, which he golfed several years ago (and much cheaper than Pebble!). I had a pedicure at the St. Regis spa (twice as expensive, but gorgeous spa, and I'm on vacation, right?). Then we had dinner at Makana Terrace at the St. Regis. Excellent food, gorgeous sunset and view. Lobster/corn/chorizo bisque, macadamia crusted mahi mahi, and mango crime brûlée'. Yum!
Will continue day 3 in the next post/reply.
This was my first time to Kauai and I can't imagine any other island being as gorgeous as this one. I traveled all over the island while I was there, and in my opinion, the North Shore is the most beautiful part of the island. The mountains are breathtaking. I was worried about the rain on the North Shore, but the weather was perfect. There are clouds at times, but they pass within minutes. There was an occasional shower, but it would pass in 5-10 minutes, followed by sunshine and rainbows.
Day 1- after ten hours of flying and a six hour time difference, we were exhausted. We rented a convertible at the airport in Lihue and checked in. The St. Regis is extremely expensive, but if you can stomach the cost, or are willing to splurge for a special occasion, it's a place you won't forget. Perched on a cliff overlooking Hanalei Bay with the majestic mountains front and center, you have gorgeous views from the lobby, terraces, and most rooms. We hung out at the pool for a few hours (and had my first Mai Tai...yum!,,) and then ordered sandwiches to go from room service and took our food down to the beach and sat under a Mangrove tree, and watched the sunset. One of my favorite things about the beaches here are the beautiful trees that provide lots of shade right on the sand.
Day 2- jet lag. Ugh. Slept poorly but still excited to be here. Had a delicious breakfast on the terrace at the St. Regis overlooking the water and the gorgeous, lush mountains. My husband golfed at the Prince course, and said he liked it better than Pebble Beach, which he golfed several years ago (and much cheaper than Pebble!). I had a pedicure at the St. Regis spa (twice as expensive, but gorgeous spa, and I'm on vacation, right?). Then we had dinner at Makana Terrace at the St. Regis. Excellent food, gorgeous sunset and view. Lobster/corn/chorizo bisque, macadamia crusted mahi mahi, and mango crime brûlée'. Yum!
Will continue day 3 in the next post/reply.
Aug 13th, 2013, 08:25 PM
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Day 3- slept much better the second night. Maybe it was the Mai Tais at dinner the night before 
We had a quick continental breakfast at the hotel, jumped in the car, and headed for Tunnels beach. I brought my own snorkel gear from home, so no need to rent. Valet gave us water and towels for the road and we were off. Loved driving through Hanalei, it's such a charming town. I loved that the road to Tunnels is undeveloped and the area remains wild and natural. We lucked out when we arrived at Tunnels at 8:30am, because someone was pulling out on the side road, otherwise we would have been out of luck. Snorkeling was awesome here... Tons of fish and several sea turtles. The mountains are right on the beach and we even saw a couple get married right on the beach! On the way home we stopped at Mediterranean Gourmet for lunch... The only place I ate besides Makana Terrace with an ocean view! Best hummus I have ever eaten with sun dried tomato in it. Great Mai Tais (do you see a pattern here?) Good service, great food. Casual vibe. Went back to the pool at the St. Regis and then had dinner there.
Day 4- Slept well again. It has to be the Mai Tais
Today we had an 8:00am helicopter ride at the Princeville airport through Sunshine Tours. This was my favorite activity we did the whole week. I was lucky enough to get to sit in front next to the pilot, and the views were unbelievable. A dormant volcano, Waimea Canyon, multiple waterfalls, and the Na Pali coast are all even more beautiful from the air than from land. The only down side was a passenger behind me vomited about halfway through the ride! He didn't make it to the barf bag in time, and there was vomit all,over the window, his clothes, and the floor. I felt so sorry for him. We had to continue on like nothing happened, and it's not like you can open the window to air it out! Regardless, the ride was fantastic.
We changed clothes back at the hotel then jumped back in the convertible and headed to the Kalalau Trail! This was my second favorite activity we did this week. We didn't get there until about 10:30am, so parking was horrible. So if you go, get there early. We had to park about a half mile away. We hiked the two miles to Hanakapiai beach and back. The views were amazing. It is a really strenuous hike, so bring lots of water, but it's totally worth it. We saw several people swimming at the beach once we got there, but the surf was very rough and it didn't look safe, so I would stay out of the water if you go. There are tide pools you can cool off in instead. We came home and slept about 3 hours afterward... We were exhausted! We woke about 8pm and took the car into Hanalei for dinner at Kalypso. Great Mai Tai, good nachos with kona pig (the appetizer came at the same time as the main course but whatever), service was friendly but scattered, and the food was good but nothing special. I would go back but it would not be my first choice in Hanalei.
Day 5 continued in next post.
We had a quick continental breakfast at the hotel, jumped in the car, and headed for Tunnels beach. I brought my own snorkel gear from home, so no need to rent. Valet gave us water and towels for the road and we were off. Loved driving through Hanalei, it's such a charming town. I loved that the road to Tunnels is undeveloped and the area remains wild and natural. We lucked out when we arrived at Tunnels at 8:30am, because someone was pulling out on the side road, otherwise we would have been out of luck. Snorkeling was awesome here... Tons of fish and several sea turtles. The mountains are right on the beach and we even saw a couple get married right on the beach! On the way home we stopped at Mediterranean Gourmet for lunch... The only place I ate besides Makana Terrace with an ocean view! Best hummus I have ever eaten with sun dried tomato in it. Great Mai Tais (do you see a pattern here?) Good service, great food. Casual vibe. Went back to the pool at the St. Regis and then had dinner there.
Day 4- Slept well again. It has to be the Mai Tais
Today we had an 8:00am helicopter ride at the Princeville airport through Sunshine Tours. This was my favorite activity we did the whole week. I was lucky enough to get to sit in front next to the pilot, and the views were unbelievable. A dormant volcano, Waimea Canyon, multiple waterfalls, and the Na Pali coast are all even more beautiful from the air than from land. The only down side was a passenger behind me vomited about halfway through the ride! He didn't make it to the barf bag in time, and there was vomit all,over the window, his clothes, and the floor. I felt so sorry for him. We had to continue on like nothing happened, and it's not like you can open the window to air it out! Regardless, the ride was fantastic.
We changed clothes back at the hotel then jumped back in the convertible and headed to the Kalalau Trail! This was my second favorite activity we did this week. We didn't get there until about 10:30am, so parking was horrible. So if you go, get there early. We had to park about a half mile away. We hiked the two miles to Hanakapiai beach and back. The views were amazing. It is a really strenuous hike, so bring lots of water, but it's totally worth it. We saw several people swimming at the beach once we got there, but the surf was very rough and it didn't look safe, so I would stay out of the water if you go. There are tide pools you can cool off in instead. We came home and slept about 3 hours afterward... We were exhausted! We woke about 8pm and took the car into Hanalei for dinner at Kalypso. Great Mai Tai, good nachos with kona pig (the appetizer came at the same time as the main course but whatever), service was friendly but scattered, and the food was good but nothing special. I would go back but it would not be my first choice in Hanalei.
Day 5 continued in next post.
Aug 13th, 2013, 09:02 PM
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Day 5- today we took an "island tour" and I think the tour bus said Roberts Hawaii? This was by far a waste of a day and I would have skipped it if I could do it over again. We were supposed to go to Waimea Canyon but they cut that part out due to "lack of time" and that was the whole reason we signed up!
So we spent about 90 minutes on a tour bus down to Poipu to see Spouting Horn blowhole. It was pretty cool but I wouldn't drive 90 mins to see it. Only if you are already in the area.
Then we get back on the bus and drove to Kilohana sugar plantation. It's very pretty but mostly just eating and upscale gift shops. Not much to see. We had lunch at Gaylord's, which was actually really good. If you are in the area, I would go back to this restaurant.
Next we got back on the bus and drove to the Wailua river and took a pontoon boat cruise to the fern grotto. It was a nice ride, but nothing exciting. It would have been better to kayak the river. The fern grotto was a big disappointment. It was damaged years ago but they are still milking it as a tourist attraction. It is essentially a cave with ferns hanging from it. We stood in the blazing heat and listened to a traditional Hawaiian wedding song, which was nice, and then got back on the boat. I would definitely skip the fern grotto if I had to do it again.
That night we had the luau dinner at Tahiti Nui in Hanalei. They take you out back and you watch the pig being roasted in the traditional Hawaiian way, wrapped in banana leaves and smoked over a fire in the ground. They have family style seating, at long cafeteria style tables, which is a little awkward. We sat on the end next to a really nice couple on their honeymoon, so it ended up being fine, but it could be awkward if you have bad table mates. The food is good, but the show is what makes it worthwhile. They have a great group of traditional Hawaiian dancers, singers, and musicians, with multiple costume changes, and even a fire eater! You need to make a reservation in advance and they do it on Wednesdays.
Day 6- today we walked right next door to the St. Regis and followed the path down to Hideaways Beach. It's a very steep descent but there are rails and ropes to hold onto. This is a beautiful beach with awesome snorkeling. It's small, but quiet and not too crowded. Lots of shade and even a few little chickens nesting on the beach with their chicks.
Day 7 next post.
So we spent about 90 minutes on a tour bus down to Poipu to see Spouting Horn blowhole. It was pretty cool but I wouldn't drive 90 mins to see it. Only if you are already in the area.
Then we get back on the bus and drove to Kilohana sugar plantation. It's very pretty but mostly just eating and upscale gift shops. Not much to see. We had lunch at Gaylord's, which was actually really good. If you are in the area, I would go back to this restaurant.
Next we got back on the bus and drove to the Wailua river and took a pontoon boat cruise to the fern grotto. It was a nice ride, but nothing exciting. It would have been better to kayak the river. The fern grotto was a big disappointment. It was damaged years ago but they are still milking it as a tourist attraction. It is essentially a cave with ferns hanging from it. We stood in the blazing heat and listened to a traditional Hawaiian wedding song, which was nice, and then got back on the boat. I would definitely skip the fern grotto if I had to do it again.
That night we had the luau dinner at Tahiti Nui in Hanalei. They take you out back and you watch the pig being roasted in the traditional Hawaiian way, wrapped in banana leaves and smoked over a fire in the ground. They have family style seating, at long cafeteria style tables, which is a little awkward. We sat on the end next to a really nice couple on their honeymoon, so it ended up being fine, but it could be awkward if you have bad table mates. The food is good, but the show is what makes it worthwhile. They have a great group of traditional Hawaiian dancers, singers, and musicians, with multiple costume changes, and even a fire eater! You need to make a reservation in advance and they do it on Wednesdays.
Day 6- today we walked right next door to the St. Regis and followed the path down to Hideaways Beach. It's a very steep descent but there are rails and ropes to hold onto. This is a beautiful beach with awesome snorkeling. It's small, but quiet and not too crowded. Lots of shade and even a few little chickens nesting on the beach with their chicks.
Day 7 next post.
Aug 13th, 2013, 09:32 PM
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Day 7- we hopped in the car and drove to the Princeville shopping center and had breakfast at Lei Petite. It's quick and inexpensive but pretty good. They serve on paper plates, but the food was good and there's a nice covered patio area with tables.
Next we drove to Ke'e beach and got there about 9am. Parking was better than last time when we hiked, but we still barely got a spot and still had to walk quite a bit. It's a crowded beach, but pretty. I was disappointed in the snorkeling, though. There really wasn't much to see in the shallow lagoon inside the reef. I have read that the good snorkeling is just outside the reef, but the lifeguard said it wasn't safe to snorkel there so we had to stay in the lagoon. We left after only a half hour and headed back to the beach at the St. Regis. Here, we actually could walk down the beach, around the corner, and swim across a narrow channel in the bay over to the beach in Hanalei. We walked around the beach and onto the Pier. I cursed myself for not having money for shave ice. I wasn't really a fan of this beach... The water is murky, it's crowded, and there are lots of cars on the sand and tents. But it was fun to walk around and then just swim across the channel and walk back to the St. Regis beach.
We checked out of the hotel and drove to CJ's in Princeville for dinner. Great Mai Tai, so-so food. The salad bar is included but it reminds me of Ponderosa steakhouse. My Hanalei shrimp was good though.
We found a shave ice place in the shopping center after dinner. Mango shave ice with macadamia ice cream on the bottom. Yum!
Next off to the airport for a 10pm flight. We booked a night flight, thinking we would sleep on the plane. Big mistake. Awake the whole time and exhausted the next day. So take a day flight and sleep when you get home.
Overall I loved the island and would love to come back with my kids (I missed them too much while we were gone), but I wish it weren't so far away .
Next we drove to Ke'e beach and got there about 9am. Parking was better than last time when we hiked, but we still barely got a spot and still had to walk quite a bit. It's a crowded beach, but pretty. I was disappointed in the snorkeling, though. There really wasn't much to see in the shallow lagoon inside the reef. I have read that the good snorkeling is just outside the reef, but the lifeguard said it wasn't safe to snorkel there so we had to stay in the lagoon. We left after only a half hour and headed back to the beach at the St. Regis. Here, we actually could walk down the beach, around the corner, and swim across a narrow channel in the bay over to the beach in Hanalei. We walked around the beach and onto the Pier. I cursed myself for not having money for shave ice. I wasn't really a fan of this beach... The water is murky, it's crowded, and there are lots of cars on the sand and tents. But it was fun to walk around and then just swim across the channel and walk back to the St. Regis beach.
We checked out of the hotel and drove to CJ's in Princeville for dinner. Great Mai Tai, so-so food. The salad bar is included but it reminds me of Ponderosa steakhouse. My Hanalei shrimp was good though.
We found a shave ice place in the shopping center after dinner. Mango shave ice with macadamia ice cream on the bottom. Yum!
Next off to the airport for a 10pm flight. We booked a night flight, thinking we would sleep on the plane. Big mistake. Awake the whole time and exhausted the next day. So take a day flight and sleep when you get home.
Overall I loved the island and would love to come back with my kids (I missed them too much while we were gone), but I wish it weren't so far away .
Aug 14th, 2013, 10:21 AM
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Love the trip report! I have always wanted to stay at that St. Regis. Were those mirror/windows cool?
I loved our helicopter ride on Kauai. It was hands-down one of my favorite activities we did on all our trips to any island. Well worth the cost. Sorry someone had puked behind you. I have a bad gag reflex when it comes to foul smells...I probably wouldn't have had a good time, but it seems you guys did. Thanks for sharing!
I loved our helicopter ride on Kauai. It was hands-down one of my favorite activities we did on all our trips to any island. Well worth the cost. Sorry someone had puked behind you. I have a bad gag reflex when it comes to foul smells...I probably wouldn't have had a good time, but it seems you guys did. Thanks for sharing!
Aug 14th, 2013, 11:34 AM
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Nice trip report, hope Roberts gave you a partial refund since you did not get to see Waimea Canyon. I took that bus my first trip to Kauai (it was included in our company's President's Club) and the bad part is they do not go all the way up to Koke'e State Park where the beautiful Kalalau Lookout is (bus is too big for the narrow roads).
Hope you can go back and next time try a Na Pali Coast boat tour.
Hope you can go back and next time try a Na Pali Coast boat tour.
Aug 14th, 2013, 01:38 PM
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Loved your report; we stayed in the condo complex above your hotel, so know the views you are talking about.
Here's a secret that fodorites taught me: If you (Heart) Kauai, send your friends to Maui.
Here's a secret that fodorites taught me: If you (Heart) Kauai, send your friends to Maui.
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