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Kauai Trip Report: A Hiking and Adventure Report (Long)

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Kauai Trip Report: A Hiking and Adventure Report (Long)

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Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 04:58 PM
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Kauai Trip Report: A Hiking and Adventure Report (Long)

Aloha! We just got back from 12 fabulous days in Kauai (Jan. 5-17th). This was our third time to this paradise (visited 1999 and 2001) and yet there was still so much to discover. We had a wonderful time and were sad to leave.

We stayed at Wailua Bay View Condos on the east shore. This is the 3rd time we have rented there and we were not disappointed. The condos are very basic (not what you would call luxury) but all have great ocean views and the building is very close to the ocean, so you can hear the waves at night. The lanai's are all private and nicely appointed. We always book the 3rd floor so we have the best view. We also like the location because both the north and south shores are an easy drive. In general, we prefer condo living so we can make our own coffee in the morning, try local produce, have access to a laundry machine in our unit (we get muddy hiking) and just have extra space and privacy.

We hiked a total of 33 miles during our stay. (This is less than usual, last time it was over 60 miles, but this time we needed some R&R since we now have two kids.) So there is some information on our hikes below.

Also, we did not eat out a lot, so there is not a lot of restaurant information in my report.

This was our first time there in 4.5 years. I was surprised at the increase in traffic. Going in and out of Lihue is challenging during rush hour. (Not that we cared, we were on vacation after all.) There is also a lot more development. For example, there is a 200 condo resort going up across from Safeway in Kapaa. The starting price was $1.5 million/unit and they are sold out!

This was our first time in the winter. The weather was perfect, never really too hot, like it was in August. The days are shorter (sunrise 7:10 am, sunset 6:10pm) but the nights are perfectly cool. I never needed a sweater or anything. There were less people than I expected. A lot of seniors staying for the winter and a lot of families with small children that are too young for school. But overall far less crowded on the beaches etc. then in May or August when we went on previous trips. I would not recommend staying in the North Shore for January though. All the beaches were really rough (except Ke’e one quiet day).

Interesting tidbit, while we were there a tourist went missing on the Wailua River. We could see the emergency helicopters from our lanai. I am not sure if they found him, the river was closed for 2 days while they searched. We have kayaked the river twice, and it made me nervous to think something like that could happen.

We took advice from Fodor’s and went to Wal-Mart for tourist things like nuts, coffee. It was by far the best deal around. We saved $5/bottle of wine and a tons more on other things.

We love Kauai and hope to retire there someday. We saw a bumper sticker that read:

IF YOU LOVE KAUAI, TELL YOUR FRIENDS TO GO TO MAUI!

Of course as a tourist myself I have no business really giving an opinion, but from now on I think I will tell everyone that Maui is the best island around. Anyway….here are the details of our trip.

Day 1
Hiked the Powerline Trail from 580, past the Arboretum. A great, easy hike with 2 waterfall views. It was really muddy, which made it fun! It was about 5 miles roundtrip.

Then went to Foodland in Kapaa to get groceries. I was shocked at the prices, $6.99 for a gallon of milk! Eggs were $2.99 a dozen, $4.00 for bread, and butter that is .69 cents at home went for about $2.50. Basically everything seemed double the price. Gas was a reasonable $2.70, which is much lower than I expected since it is $2.40/gallon where I live. Did some other shopping later at the Safeway next door—some things were cheaper there, but then some things were higher.

Day 2
Snorkeled in Poipu (Beach House spot). Saw a 5 ft. long needlefish or swordfish, not sure which, but I was too scared to get close. It was BIG. Then went to Gillins Beach, just past the Hyatt via the dirt road at the end. It was amazing. Totally secluded and empty. It was also near some neat caves which made for an interesting walk. There is a great swimming spot just to the left of Gillins, in between the next beach. We LOVED this beach!!! It was fun to watch all the local para-surfers as well. Someday I want to buy Gillins Beach House, or at least stay there.

Rented snorkel gear from Snorkel Bobs, $32/week.

Day 3
Did the Nualolo Trail-Nualolo Cliffs Trail-Awa-awapuhi Grand Loop. It is about 10 miles. This is the most amazing hike. We did it 4 years ago, but it has not lost its wonder or appeal. We started early, and then got to the first vista by noon. Contrary to what Ultimate Kauai book says, IMHO the first vista is the best. It was really breathtaking. And we were alone on the trail, only saw some people at the end that did the Awa-awapuhi trail in and out. The last 3.5 miles are the hardest, because you basically climb 1500 feet. After the hike, rather than walking back to our car at the lodge for 2 miles on the road, we were lucky to get a ride down to the lodge from a local, for which we were grateful. (We lucked out last time too—the locals are really nice.)

Stopped by Wiamea Brew Pub after for a beer, which was much needed! Would like to do dinner there sometime, everything looked delicious. (I guess most things do after a 10 mile hike though.)

Day 4
We did the Princeville Ranch Zipline tour, which I read about on Fodor’s. (Thanks JennaJ!) It was superb! A really awesome tour. I was going to book through Activity Warehouse but they were charging $130/person whereas when I booked directly I got it for $117. Anyway, I highly recommend this, it was truly an adventure. We had a fun group and great guides (Parley and Nate). I was surprised that the lunch was so good too, a really first class operation. The watering hole was cold though. At the end you are supposed to tip these guys for the 6 hours they spend with you. Based on what I read here in advance we left $20. I was shocked that some people left only a few dollars.

We then went to Anini Beach for some fairly good snorkeling, considering it was winter. The beach was quiet and pretty empty. The snorkeling was not as good as Tunnels (my favorite summer spot) but was decent. The best part was we saw some whales jumping from the beach. It was really neat, especially since this was my first whale viewing. (Part of the reason we went in Jan. this time.) We also went to the Kilauea Lighthouse for some whale watching but no luck.

Day 5
Another hike day. This time we did the Jungle Hike recommended in Ultimate Kauai, again down 580 past the Arboretum. We chickened out in driving through the big ravine/mud puddle, so we walked 2.5 miles to the trailhead. Turns out we could have made it, as we saw lots of cars that did. But it was a nice walk. We got to see the Jurassic Park gates—where they filmed the entrance to the island or something like that. Interesting, but not a highlight of our trip.

The hike itself was easy and short, and we were rewarded with a swimming hole and waterfall all to ourselves!!! A perfect lunch spot. Again, we did not see anyone on this trail, except for a lone hiker that was just passing by on to bigger things. In general there seems to be less hikers in January.

After the hike we stopped at Lydgate for a little snorkeling afterwards. There were lots of families there (as usual) which made me miss my kids.

Day 6
Headed to the North Shore. Decided to go to Ke’e beach and work our way down slowly. Ke’e was not that rough that day, and I actually got some decent snorkeling in. The beach was not crowded like it is in the summers. Saw a few hikers doing the Kalalua Trail hike. We have done it 2x and decided to skip it this time, although I highly recommend it.

Drove past the wet caves and stopped at Tunnels again, but still was too rough to snorkel. Stopped at Hanalei for some coffee and a little shopping, it is such a cute town. Also went to the Princeville shopping center, which I found pretty sparse. Took time exploring on the way down—stopped at the Hanalei lookout. This time of year there were no waterfalls! In May and August I always saw a bunch of waterfalls on the mountains. It was still beautiful though.

The highlight of the day was the local Farmers Market in Kapaa. There was tons of local produce. I ate so many things I have never seen before. One was a cross between a grapefruit and an orange, sweet and sour. It was so yummy. We got papayas, mangos, avocados, rambutans a bunch of fun things. I turned around and found my DH with a coconut that had only a straw coming out of the top. Too funny. It was delicious. Oh yeah, the market was cheaper than the stores too.

We went to dinner at the Bullshed. We got there early (5:30pm) to get a good seat by the window, with the ocean about 5 ft from your table. This was our second time there and it was delicious. I had the teriyaki shrimp, which was as good as I remembered. My DH had the fresh catch of the day, which was ahi. The salad bar is decent too, even though tour books say it is horrible. We walked home via Coconut Marketplace, which was darling. I know CaliNurse said it was sorta declining, but I don’t know if it was the Christmas lights or the fact that all the shops were full but I thought it looked really nice, nicer than I remembered in fact. We had ice cream and walked around and shopped. We even caught a movie in the cinema there, since it was so easy and the night was young. (Movies in Kauai are only $7, a bargain!)

Day 7
We started the day with a 2-hour whale watching tour with Captain Andy. It was on a zodiac raft. Our skipper was “T” and Danny was his assistant. A GREAT TOUR. They did not disappoint. T took us closer to whales than I was actually comfortable with. You really can’t understand how big they are until they are near you. You feel like the size of a pea. We followed about 4 whales, saw them spout, surface, peek out—it was great. It was a bargain as well, only $59/person. We got completely soaked but it was so fun.

Ironically, 4 years ago we took an Eco Adventure on the Napali coast. At the time we were told about a baby humpback that jumped on a boat and nearly killed a woman. (It weighed about 4 tons.) Anyway, turns out the skipper of that ship was our own captain that day—T! He had great stories to share and was lots of fun.

We snorkeled at the Beach House again in Poipu. This is still the best spot I have found in the south shore. We relaxed at Ha’ula beach past Gillins to try something new. Again, hardly anyone was there. Stopped briefly at Poipu Beach Park but it was a little crowded. (Meaning more than 20 people.)

Day 8
This was our first failed hike in Kauai! We tried to do the Tunnel hike listed under the Adventure section in the Ultimate Kauai book. We drove to the end of 580 to get to the trailhead. We literally walked in circles for about 2 hours, trying to find the trail after we crossed the second stream. The trail was marked with orange looking hunting tags, and took is in a giant loop. Honestly though, so far this was my least favorite hike on the island. It was really muddy (worse than the swamp hike) and there were spider webs everywhere with giant red and black spiders in them (hey, this is supposed to be a vacation, right?) Plus we got lost in the bamboo trees 2x and in the giant ferns. My DH loved it, loved the thrill, and loved being lost. I might have enjoyed it 5 years ago if I wasn’t concerned with leaving my children motherless. So after 2.5 hours of walking around I convinced DH to give up. Of course he plans to do it next time. (He will not be defeated!) We ended up going back to the swimming hole we found the earlier hike and it was fabulous. Again deserted but this time had a larger waterfall due to a recent rainfall.

Went to King and I Thai restaurant for dinner that night. We had been there before and it did not disappoint, as usual. I love the spring rolls, and we also got the special red curry, which was amazing and spicy.

Day 9
Started day with Sleeping Giant hike. I am glad I did this one again because I did it once and did not enjoy it. I don’t know why, but this time I really appreciated the view and the quiet hike. Probably had to do with our failed hike the previous day. We had great views of a rain cloud coming in, it was surreal. We sat on the top and watched it move through the island, and hiked down in the rain. Fabulous!

Ended the day in the south with our now favorite beach, Gillins. Again it was quite and secluded with great swimming.

Day 10
Our last full day we decided to spend in Wailua Bay. We had breakfast at the Wailua Family restaurant. They had a pretty decent buffet. We then hit the beach in Wailua, where the river meets the ocean. We saw whales again!!! About 4 of them jumping not too far from the shore. I am sure the surfers that were there had great views. Wailua is not a great swimming beach but is fun to people/surfer watch.

We went to Lemongrass Grill and Seafood for dinner. We got a plate that had two lobster tails, 4 sautéed scallops, 2 prawns, 2 giant shrimp cooked in lemon garlic sauce, an ahi tuna steak, and a few side dishes. We thought it was a bargain for only $70. Also had a nice mousse selection for dessert. The only downside to this place is if you sit outside you are very close to the street. Depending on the time of day there could be a lot of traffic.

Day 11
We left Kauai (in tears) at about 10am. We arrived in Honolulu at 11pm, and had 8 hours until our evening flight back to the mainland. We decided to see Pearl Harbor. We took a bus for only $2 right to the entrance. Very easy and cheap. Pearl Harbor itself was very moving. It was not what I expected, although I am not exactly sure what I did expect.

We then went to Pearl Ridge and did some shopping. Also had lunch at this fabulous Italian place and the name escapes me. But they served little butter and garlic rolls instead of plain bread. They were delicious! It was a great way to spend the day before a long fight.

We are already planning our next visit to Kauai. This time we won’t let 4 years go by without visiting. It is truly paradise. (To us anyway.)

ALOHA and MAHALO for reading!
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Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 06:06 PM
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Thanks for a wonderful trip report! Since you did a lot of swimming in fresh water around the waterfalls, did you ever worry about that bacteria in the water? Also was the zipline tour scary? I am not a real daredevil type. We are bringing our daughters that are 13 and 12. Would it be dangerous for them? Thanks and I can't wait to go in April!!!
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Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 06:32 PM
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We said we couldn't wait to take our boys on the zipline. I know they have to weigh 80 lbs and I think be at least 10. They probably will be less scared than you! And I think it is totally safe. I felt 100% safe at every moment, really. Although I would be lying if I said I was not scared at first, but by the end I was loving it! It is really neat and a beautiful way to see some sights. Try it!

I did not worry about bacteria in the fresh water, mainly because it was constantly moving (waterfalls nearby) and it looked so clear. Not a lot of algea and whatnot that would give me pause. But I am not sure about the safety, I never really thought about it!

You are so lucky! I can't wait to take my kids there someday, although now they are much too young (1 and 3). It is such a family friendly place. Lots of family hikes to do if you are interested in that.

Have fun!
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Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 06:55 PM
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Last time we went, my oldest was 14 mos and I was five mos pregnant with my second. So, now we are going back with them! This will be you in 10 years(or sooner)! I may not be brave enough for the zip line. I have read more on it.... I am looking into maybe horseback riding (a low-key one). We are all novices. I am checking around the different things to do. Kayaking is a maybe as long as it is not too strenuous. Hiking we can definitely all do. Do you know of a fairly easy hike that would last around an hour with nice views and maybe a waterfall and be safe since we are novices at that too!
I have the Kauai revealed book and I will read over the hikes. I noticed that was your main activity.We only have three nights in Kauai. Most of our trip is on Oahu (6 nights). We are staying at the Marriott in Lihue.
Thanks again
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Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 08:33 PM
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Great report, StephCar.

Coincidentally, we are going to Kauai at the end of may for 14 days and have been planning some of the same activities and restaurants as in your report. Can't wait.

Mahalo8-)
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 03:22 AM
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jamaltay--even though I just got back I am envious you will be there soon. Have a great trip!

If you do the Tunnel hike and actually find it will you please let me know what we did wrong? Or if anyone else out there actually found the tunnel, I am curious to know what happened. We are usually pretty good at finding trails, so I am feeling defeated.
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 05:32 AM
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StephCar,
Your great report really put me in the mood! We are leaving for Kauai March 2nd.

Quick question, we are going to have a day in Ohau on the way back as well. Going to take the bus or taxi out to Pearl Harbor. What did you do with your luggage?

Our flight will land in am, would like to check it right in at the airport for our late pm flight to the states, but have heard mixed comments about whether Delta will accept baggage that early. If not, do they have lockers at the airport we could rent for a day?
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 06:44 AM
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Great report, StephCar.

And very timely too. We're making our first trip to Kauai in Feb and are staying at the Wailua Bay View too.

One question. For your snorkling trips, was "legal" parking easily available? Thanks.
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 07:14 AM
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Good report. "The best part was we saw some whales jumping from the beach." Yep, you probably walked up and interrupted their beach party. But wow, what whales can do is amazing ...the next thing you know they'll be trying to hula hoop or zipline!

Although we like Kauai too, this time we're going to Maui (we've also heard it's the "best" island) . But I doubt we'll walk 0.33 miles, let alone 33!

-- 26 mo' days 'till .

Just say no to ~gt;~gt;~gt; .
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 07:19 AM
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StephCar--
Thanks for the GREAT report! We are leaving for Oahu (2 days) and Kauai (5 days) at the end of the week!!! I'm even more excited now.

A couple of questions...we are only planning to hike one day (looking for more R&R as we have a 1 year old, too!) We are thinking of doing just the first couple of miles of the Kalalau trail, then taking the trail up to the waterfall. Have you done that? Will that hike be a good one? About how long would it take us? (We're in good shape and are somewhat experienced hikers...we just don't want to go on the ALL day bust your butt hikes while we're there).

What is your #1 must-go restaurant there? What is your #1 must-do activity?

Thanks for sharing!
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 08:38 AM
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Ditto on the great trip report. We'll be there on Feb. 11th - I can't wait. We aren't so much into hiking, but the snorkeling and beaches will be great. We're staying on the south side near Poipu Beach. We haven't been there before so don't know any questions to ask except the ones from the other readers. But will welcome any recommendations.
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 09:25 AM
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travelisfun,

If you don't want to bust your butt I would not do the hike to the waterfall. It will add about 3 to 4 hours onto the Kalalau hike. It is gorgeous, but the trail was slippery, even in August and is not that well marked in parts. Be prepared to loose the trail a couple of times. It was an adventure, and the waterfall is a worthy payoff, but if you're not into doing a potential ball-buster, I would do just the first two miles of the Kalalau and hike back. Bring LOTS of water.

-Bill
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 09:35 AM
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Hi everyone, I am so glad my report was helpful. I get so much good advice on this forum it is fun to give back!

girlonthego--yes, there is a GREAT family hike just at the edge of the Arboretum on 580. It is called something like the Kilua (sp) Ridge Trail. Has great views of jungle and is so plush, lots of fresh fruit and flowers. It smells divine. It is also an easy hike with wide trails, and recommended as a family hike. Re: Kayaking, the Wailua River is tame and they have family kayaks you can rent alone or with a guide. It is so fun!

Lvtotravel, we got in early too (11am) and just checked our bags via Continental for our 8pm flight. It was not a problem. I did see some lockers though if Delta won't do it for you. Just make sure you do not check them straight through from your inter-island flight. Pick them up in Honolulu and re-check them, I was told that is safer.

Brian_in_Charlotte-How fun that you are staying at Wailua Bay. Say HI to Fred (manager) for us. A good guy. I hope you like it, they are fairly basic units, as you probably know. Re: parking I don't think there are any parking rules in Kauai. We just parked wherever and never got a ticket. But don't take my word for it....

travelisfun--Kalalau Trail is amazing. I highly recommend. The first part is easy with very nice trails. The second half is much harder. If you are taking your child (in a backpack carrier maybe?) on this I would not suggest it, you cross the river several times and go over some rather steep cliffs/ledges. The first time we did it I almost turned back! The trail was not that well maintained either. Make sure you bring plenty of water and food too. You will probably want to rest and swim at the waterfall. It is a very fun and challenging hike. Oddly, the 2 miles into the waterfall takes the majority of the time, but all told it took about 6 hours of our day. Oh, and I can't pick a must do really, there is so much I love there! The Nualolo Trail/Loop is on the list though for sure. Even though it is a long day, it is so worth it, the views are just out of this world. You could do half of it and turn back out. Honestly, I was never a hiker until I went to Kauai, it just inspired me. And I don't hike anywhere else. Another cool place, Kipu Falls.

MinnieNo1--Poipu is a great location. We spent most of the time there since the North was so rough in the winter. Gillin's beach is my recommendation, if you like seclusion and quiet.
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 10:15 AM
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Hi StephCar

I enjoyed your report tremendously. Thanks for sharing!

I was wondering if any of your past Kauai hiking was down to the bottom of Opaeka Falls? 2 years ago we did the hike to the bottom of Wailua Falls which was kind of steep but do-able and I was wondering how the Opaeka Falls hike would compare...
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 10:54 AM
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CajunStorm--we did not do that hike to the bottom of the Opaeka Falls. On all our trips it was on our list but we decided against it...something about what some of the tour books said about it turned us off, I can't remember if it was poorly marked trails or the fact you had to go over a fence and it was not recommended...? I can't remember. Sorry! If you do it let me know how it turns out. And did you ever do the Tunnel hike? We are so discouraged about that one!
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 11:06 AM
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Thanks so much for this great trip report! I am going to Kaua'i in March and this will be extremely helpful, particularly the hiking info. How was your weather? I've heard stories about the "red dirt" of Kaua'i and am wondering whether to take old hiking boots that staining will not be an issue with. I will also have a layover in Honolulu on the way out. Did you have difficulty getting in to the Arizona Memorial, since you arrived later in the day? I've heard you need to get there early.
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 01:33 PM
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Mahalo StephCar,

That was such a fabulous trip report...especially for hikers and adventure-seekers.

I'm going to Kauai for the 1st time in late May-early June and your report has provided terrific insight.
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Old Jan 24th, 2006, 02:08 PM
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philsbert1--The red dirt did in fact stain our boots, and everything else for that matter. But the red dirt is mainly in the canyon hikes/swamp hikes. Other jungle hikes you are okay. We usually throw away our socks after a hike b/c they are basically ruined. So I always wore old socks for hikes. As for my boots, I guess they are stained a little, this is our 3rd time there for hiking, but I think they look cool and well worn. (And provide great stories.) They also get very wet! The weather was great, as it always seems to be. I am guessing March will be muddier b/c there is more rain? Not sure.

Getting to the Arizona Memorial was easy. A $2 public bus ride right outside the airport, maybe 20 min? (No traffic though, it was MLK holiday when we went.) And yes the last tour was at 3pm. I think next time we would take a taxi though, it can't be more than $20, and we did wait for the bus for about 25 minutes.

bluefan--I am excited for you to experience your first trip to Kauai! I bet it won't be your last. . .


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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 04:12 PM
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Thank you "StephCar", my family are going to Kauai for our first trip next December. All your informations has given me lots of vacations ideas and glad to get info about hikes and Zipline.
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Old Jan 26th, 2006, 04:23 PM
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StephCar,
Hey! We were in different places together.
We were at The Islander from 12-31 thru 1-18. Wonder if we ever bumped into each other w/o knowing?

Sounds like you had a GREAT time inspite of the oh so terrible conditions during our mutual stays. O
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