If it’s not fried, it’s not food (New Orleans trip report)
Mar 27th, 2014, 10:35 AM
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If it’s not fried, it’s not food (New Orleans trip report)
A summary for those who don’t like to read long reports: we had a week with Road Scholar (former Elderhostel), saw a lot, ate a lot, learned a lot.
Skip to the photos if you like, or read the full report below.
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/381104/index.html
Skip to the photos if you like, or read the full report below.
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/381104/index.html
Mar 27th, 2014, 10:36 AM
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FLIGHTS. Flew non-stop United. An unpleasant surprise was that they changed our seats, putting 14 rows between us. No, it’s not an upgrade; luckily I was able to switch seats. With the standbys the plane was full. One woman put her suitcase flat in the overhead bin, and her straw hat on top of it. The hat started to slide, so I asked the woman sitting next to me: how soon, do you think, it will fall out? Just when I said it, the hat fell down under the feet of a highly amused flight attendant. On the way back lots of empty seats, some passengers lied down to sleep on the 3-seaters.
We took taxis from the airport and back, the line at MSY was a block long, but moved fast, and 10’ later we were on our way. To go back, the hotel made a cab reservation for us, the driver was on time. The city has a fixed price for taxis - $33 each way, I love that the drivers can’t “take you for a ride”.
HOTEL. We stayed at Holiday Inn Downtown on Loyola Street – a nice hotel in a shady area, safe during the day. The room was spacious, bed comfortable, AC, coffeemaker, fridge, microwave, cosmetics in the bathroom almost different every day, they probably have new maids, no waiting for water to get hot in the shower, no complaints at all except the quality of shampoo – it’s a good thing I am used to bringing my own.
The outside pool area on the 8th floor is nice for a picnic lunch that was distributed once for no apparent reason on Wednesday. Conference rooms are air conditioned, of course, and have water. Somebody mentioned the laundry room, I think, that there is only one washer/drier. The business center across from the lobby has two complimentary computers. For some reason I couldn’t log in into one of the two Hotmail accounts.
As the hotels are outrageously expensive, I asked Road Scholar if they can help. They did. In email I got a phone number for group reservations, and they were so kind to add one night pre-program at a much reduced price.
STREETCAR. The streetcar stop is by the Walgreens, one block to the right out of the hotel, so on Sunday we got one-day passes from the driver, and off to explore the city. If you ask the driver, they will tell you where to get off, they don’t forget. First we wanted to see the famous St. Charles Street, got off the car for a photo, back on to continue the trip. To our disappointment part of the street was closed to streetcars, and the driver just announced: this is as far as I can take you, take the bus around the corner to continue.
We decided to go back, switched to Canal streetcar, saw the casino, decided it’s time for lunch, got something unrecognizable but spicy hot, and checked the penny slots of course. I put a dollar in, won a bit, lost a bit, got the dollar back. My husband put in $5, took out $8, and happily we left for hotel. Of course the streetcar Loyola didn’t show up for 40’, maybe on Sundays they don’t run on schedule. Our first day was short as we woke up late, San Francisco is 2 hours behind, and the program started with a meeting at 4 pm.
If you stay before or after the program, print the streetcar map off the Internet and mark the lines in different colors, so you will know which one to use. There are 5 lines that go to most of the touristy places, the line’s name is on the car (3 of them run along Canal street, so look where they go), and don’t mind the schedule, those cars have a mind of their own. There is no streetcar named Desire, but there is a street named Desire right next to the street name Piety.
We took taxis from the airport and back, the line at MSY was a block long, but moved fast, and 10’ later we were on our way. To go back, the hotel made a cab reservation for us, the driver was on time. The city has a fixed price for taxis - $33 each way, I love that the drivers can’t “take you for a ride”.
HOTEL. We stayed at Holiday Inn Downtown on Loyola Street – a nice hotel in a shady area, safe during the day. The room was spacious, bed comfortable, AC, coffeemaker, fridge, microwave, cosmetics in the bathroom almost different every day, they probably have new maids, no waiting for water to get hot in the shower, no complaints at all except the quality of shampoo – it’s a good thing I am used to bringing my own.
The outside pool area on the 8th floor is nice for a picnic lunch that was distributed once for no apparent reason on Wednesday. Conference rooms are air conditioned, of course, and have water. Somebody mentioned the laundry room, I think, that there is only one washer/drier. The business center across from the lobby has two complimentary computers. For some reason I couldn’t log in into one of the two Hotmail accounts.
As the hotels are outrageously expensive, I asked Road Scholar if they can help. They did. In email I got a phone number for group reservations, and they were so kind to add one night pre-program at a much reduced price.
STREETCAR. The streetcar stop is by the Walgreens, one block to the right out of the hotel, so on Sunday we got one-day passes from the driver, and off to explore the city. If you ask the driver, they will tell you where to get off, they don’t forget. First we wanted to see the famous St. Charles Street, got off the car for a photo, back on to continue the trip. To our disappointment part of the street was closed to streetcars, and the driver just announced: this is as far as I can take you, take the bus around the corner to continue.
We decided to go back, switched to Canal streetcar, saw the casino, decided it’s time for lunch, got something unrecognizable but spicy hot, and checked the penny slots of course. I put a dollar in, won a bit, lost a bit, got the dollar back. My husband put in $5, took out $8, and happily we left for hotel. Of course the streetcar Loyola didn’t show up for 40’, maybe on Sundays they don’t run on schedule. Our first day was short as we woke up late, San Francisco is 2 hours behind, and the program started with a meeting at 4 pm.
If you stay before or after the program, print the streetcar map off the Internet and mark the lines in different colors, so you will know which one to use. There are 5 lines that go to most of the touristy places, the line’s name is on the car (3 of them run along Canal street, so look where they go), and don’t mind the schedule, those cars have a mind of their own. There is no streetcar named Desire, but there is a street named Desire right next to the street name Piety.
Mar 27th, 2014, 10:36 AM
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THE PROGRAM. Our group leader Sharon was the ultimate Mother Hen. She gave us her cell phone number, and everything was explained in great details. I was surprised to see that everything was on time, if she said we’ll leave at 1.25 – it meant that at 1.26 the bus would be on the way. I wonder if any of the elderly people were ever left behind. Our bus driver Randy kept the bus clean, which is probably not easy with 42 people on board. The average age in our group was, I think, 75. The program was rated “easy” – for people who want to exercise their minds more than their bodies.
While we missed the main annual parade – Mardi Gras, we were there to see a small St. Patrick’s day parade, most of the young people in the city were wearing green Sunday and Monday, and the parade was on Monday, March 17. Also on March 19 there was a holiday important for Catholics, so the tour guides Sharon and Jerry took our group to a church, and they came back with some sort of cookies.
Sunday – registration and dinner. People were called up by the month of birth to introduce themselves. Some did, some didn’t. Lecture in the evening: Anne tried to deliver something, repeating: oh my God, oh my God! I asked my husband after the lecture: oh my God, what was this about? He didn’t get it either.
Monday – lecture on NO history by Jerry and a bus tour with him to see the areas damaged by the hurricane, still visible almost 9 years later. Jerry is a good lecturer, mixing in some jokes and local gossip. We stopped at the cemetery #3, explained different type of burials, not given any time to wander around. In the evening lecture by Nellie about the French Quarter.
Tuesday – literature lecture by Joann with very selective introduction of books about or written in NO. Just get the list of books off Road Scholar website. She was so enthusiastic to inform us how surprised she was to learn that “A Streetcar Named Desire” was popular in the Soviet Bloc countries as, per her personal opinion, it gave people hope for the future. No, lady, the only reason this book was allowed is to show the moral decay of the West. You are talking about commie government here. But of course I didn’t want to interrupt the course, so didn’t say anything.
Music lecture by Matt – knowledgeable overview of jazz history. After the lecture we were taken to a free presentation of jazz by the local park rangers – strangely scheduled, I thought, as we didn’t have any time to visit the museum. As for the quality of “all that jazz” – I feel sorry we didn’t see the museum instead.
Wednesday – architecture lecture by Jerry and a bus tour of the city, and a walking tour of Garden district. If you are at all interested in architecture, or like to see houses (from outside) take that tour. They warn about uneven surfaces and a 6-block walk, but it was easy. Jazz music in the evening was good if only one guy wouldn’t sing, but it was a sing-along, so his voice was mostly drowned. The man on clarinet was so good!!
Friday (I’ll be back to Thursday) –It was nice to find Mardi Gras necklaces on the chairs, we brought ours home. Jerry, who was good all week, after Mardi Gras presentation broke into some old local politics, and his final lecture was “blah”. End of the program.
Thursday. I thought the program was poorly planned. Every day was easy, with rest time between lunch and dinner, and an option to go by bus to the hotel. And then – BAM! comes Thursday full of walking. In the morning there was walking in the Sculpture garden (a delightful place!) and the Art Museum (interesting beyond expectations), bus to lunch place, and after that we were on our own, in some unknown area of the city, with free time option – 3 hours before dinner, either take a taxi to the hotel, or walk if you know where, or take a taxi to take a boat.
FOOD. We were introduced to different foods, from picnic to buffets to a choice of 10 dishes. On Sunday at orientation each program participant got a letter-sized menu for each day, we marked off our choices and the next morning got the pages back, with many colored stickers that we took off one by one, put on the table, and the waiters knew which dish to bring. Cleverly organized, I thought. The quality of food varied from “meh” to “very good!!” Always a choice of vegetarian and gluten-free.
Drinks: for breakfast we had OJ and coffee, could ask for water. At lunches we usually had iced tea and water, same for dinner. 2 places offered lemonade – much sweeter than they make in San Francisco.
Monday lunch was OK, ice-cream for dessert. Dinner was not memorable, even though I am looking at the menu now, writing this report. Tuesday we had a buffet lunch at the hotel, excellent meal, formal setting, cheesecake for dessert. Wednesday – picnic lunch that we ate by the pool in the hotel. Dinner at a famous restaurant where a 90-year cook makes food for Obama. I am sure there was something for dessert. Lots of paintings on the walls. Friday a picnic lunch that can be taken on the plane.
Tuesday was the only day that we had to have a dinner on our own. I have a friend who leaves outside of San Francisco, and doesn’t like to drive in, so we don’t meet often since she’s retired. Turned out, she and her husband were in New Orleans the same week, so we decided to have dinner together. After a search and consideration of diets, we made reservation at Domenica – this restaurant gets rave reviews on Trip Advisor. My husband and I shared a pizza, I asked the waitress for a glass of red wine of her choice. The wine tasted like Chianti, but on the check listed as Pinot Noir. The place is popular, all tables taken by young people; the noise level was way too high. We enjoyed the meeting anyway.
We took the streetcar to the restaurant, but to get back, my husband insisted we’d walk. Did I mention the shady area around the hotel? Turned out, the Canal Street was no better. For a while I worked in the area of San Francisco where you could see drug dealing – two people approach each other, one has money folded in this hand, another a tiny packet, and the whole transaction looks like a simple handshake, just a bit longer. We saw two of those.
We noticed two people from our group, standing with a map, of course stopped to say hello. Oh boy, were they happy to see us! They asked one of those locals where to turn on Loyola, the locals sent them back, the street sign said Elk Street, so they got confused. Canal Street is a divider, many streets have one name on one side, another name on the other side, this is why they were confused. When I said, let’s keep walking, they said, we just came back from there! We insisted, and finally all four of us safely walked into the hotel lobby. I would not walk in that area after dark again. Once was enough!
Describing food I have not missed Thursday as both lunch and dinner places deserve a special mentioning. Lunch was at a place opened for our group only, owned by a former Packer’s player Devon Washington, now named Shaka Zulu. While the food was just OK, there was a presentation of Mardi Gras costumes, a short lecture on his perspective of its history, singing and tambourine playing. Too bad the group leader advised to go on a boat, so half of the group left early, he was singing and rapping, and it was real fun. Stay through the whole presentation, you will definitely learn something.
(a side note: trying to Google all-time players did not bring results, so the above info may be incorrect, but he said he played for Packers till he injured his wrist, still an interesting person, and I found this link about his work http://www.nola.com/mardigras/index....urant_and.html)
Dinner was at the cooking school. While the food was good, beer served, and the desserts were interesting, Harriet the Cook is quit a character. You will “get to know” her whole family due to her funny sarcastic remarks. Recipes of all 5 dishes are on the tables for everyone to take home, this includes pralines. Come in a little early if you can, to browse the gift shop. If you need to place to sit and wait, as they don’t allow entering the classroom early, there is a Jean Lafitte visitors’ center around the corner, half-block to the right, use inside benches to watch a short movie, or courtyard benches in the back.
Overall impression: the city is easy to visit with some tours and public transportation. Lots and lots of elaborate iron work on balconies and door/window bars, in the French Quarter those from the times of slavery. At the same time, elevator mirrors at the hotel are rusty. Tells you something about quality of work. Not much wood used, fences either rot or get eaten by termites. Carriages are driven by mules as horses cannot be used during hot summers.
The weather during the week was strange. Warm, humid, light rain Sunday, warm Monday, cold Tuesday (yes, 57 and windy IS cold!) – warmed up to 70s by Friday. The local cuisine is simple: if it’s not fried, it’s not food. People were nice and accommodating, helpful and friendly, different from the northern areas of the country. Contrary to the popular belief, the iced tea does not have sugar in it, you can add as much or as little as you like.
When some buildings are renovated, the owners try to keep them historically intact, at least the front of it, the façade, with everything else behind it remodeled. The new word for these types of houses is “façadomy”
We really enjoyed the program, and recommend it to everybody who doesn’t feel like visiting New Orleans on their own.
While we missed the main annual parade – Mardi Gras, we were there to see a small St. Patrick’s day parade, most of the young people in the city were wearing green Sunday and Monday, and the parade was on Monday, March 17. Also on March 19 there was a holiday important for Catholics, so the tour guides Sharon and Jerry took our group to a church, and they came back with some sort of cookies.
Sunday – registration and dinner. People were called up by the month of birth to introduce themselves. Some did, some didn’t. Lecture in the evening: Anne tried to deliver something, repeating: oh my God, oh my God! I asked my husband after the lecture: oh my God, what was this about? He didn’t get it either.
Monday – lecture on NO history by Jerry and a bus tour with him to see the areas damaged by the hurricane, still visible almost 9 years later. Jerry is a good lecturer, mixing in some jokes and local gossip. We stopped at the cemetery #3, explained different type of burials, not given any time to wander around. In the evening lecture by Nellie about the French Quarter.
Tuesday – literature lecture by Joann with very selective introduction of books about or written in NO. Just get the list of books off Road Scholar website. She was so enthusiastic to inform us how surprised she was to learn that “A Streetcar Named Desire” was popular in the Soviet Bloc countries as, per her personal opinion, it gave people hope for the future. No, lady, the only reason this book was allowed is to show the moral decay of the West. You are talking about commie government here. But of course I didn’t want to interrupt the course, so didn’t say anything.
Music lecture by Matt – knowledgeable overview of jazz history. After the lecture we were taken to a free presentation of jazz by the local park rangers – strangely scheduled, I thought, as we didn’t have any time to visit the museum. As for the quality of “all that jazz” – I feel sorry we didn’t see the museum instead.
Wednesday – architecture lecture by Jerry and a bus tour of the city, and a walking tour of Garden district. If you are at all interested in architecture, or like to see houses (from outside) take that tour. They warn about uneven surfaces and a 6-block walk, but it was easy. Jazz music in the evening was good if only one guy wouldn’t sing, but it was a sing-along, so his voice was mostly drowned. The man on clarinet was so good!!
Friday (I’ll be back to Thursday) –It was nice to find Mardi Gras necklaces on the chairs, we brought ours home. Jerry, who was good all week, after Mardi Gras presentation broke into some old local politics, and his final lecture was “blah”. End of the program.
Thursday. I thought the program was poorly planned. Every day was easy, with rest time between lunch and dinner, and an option to go by bus to the hotel. And then – BAM! comes Thursday full of walking. In the morning there was walking in the Sculpture garden (a delightful place!) and the Art Museum (interesting beyond expectations), bus to lunch place, and after that we were on our own, in some unknown area of the city, with free time option – 3 hours before dinner, either take a taxi to the hotel, or walk if you know where, or take a taxi to take a boat.
FOOD. We were introduced to different foods, from picnic to buffets to a choice of 10 dishes. On Sunday at orientation each program participant got a letter-sized menu for each day, we marked off our choices and the next morning got the pages back, with many colored stickers that we took off one by one, put on the table, and the waiters knew which dish to bring. Cleverly organized, I thought. The quality of food varied from “meh” to “very good!!” Always a choice of vegetarian and gluten-free.
Drinks: for breakfast we had OJ and coffee, could ask for water. At lunches we usually had iced tea and water, same for dinner. 2 places offered lemonade – much sweeter than they make in San Francisco.
Monday lunch was OK, ice-cream for dessert. Dinner was not memorable, even though I am looking at the menu now, writing this report. Tuesday we had a buffet lunch at the hotel, excellent meal, formal setting, cheesecake for dessert. Wednesday – picnic lunch that we ate by the pool in the hotel. Dinner at a famous restaurant where a 90-year cook makes food for Obama. I am sure there was something for dessert. Lots of paintings on the walls. Friday a picnic lunch that can be taken on the plane.
Tuesday was the only day that we had to have a dinner on our own. I have a friend who leaves outside of San Francisco, and doesn’t like to drive in, so we don’t meet often since she’s retired. Turned out, she and her husband were in New Orleans the same week, so we decided to have dinner together. After a search and consideration of diets, we made reservation at Domenica – this restaurant gets rave reviews on Trip Advisor. My husband and I shared a pizza, I asked the waitress for a glass of red wine of her choice. The wine tasted like Chianti, but on the check listed as Pinot Noir. The place is popular, all tables taken by young people; the noise level was way too high. We enjoyed the meeting anyway.
We took the streetcar to the restaurant, but to get back, my husband insisted we’d walk. Did I mention the shady area around the hotel? Turned out, the Canal Street was no better. For a while I worked in the area of San Francisco where you could see drug dealing – two people approach each other, one has money folded in this hand, another a tiny packet, and the whole transaction looks like a simple handshake, just a bit longer. We saw two of those.
We noticed two people from our group, standing with a map, of course stopped to say hello. Oh boy, were they happy to see us! They asked one of those locals where to turn on Loyola, the locals sent them back, the street sign said Elk Street, so they got confused. Canal Street is a divider, many streets have one name on one side, another name on the other side, this is why they were confused. When I said, let’s keep walking, they said, we just came back from there! We insisted, and finally all four of us safely walked into the hotel lobby. I would not walk in that area after dark again. Once was enough!
Describing food I have not missed Thursday as both lunch and dinner places deserve a special mentioning. Lunch was at a place opened for our group only, owned by a former Packer’s player Devon Washington, now named Shaka Zulu. While the food was just OK, there was a presentation of Mardi Gras costumes, a short lecture on his perspective of its history, singing and tambourine playing. Too bad the group leader advised to go on a boat, so half of the group left early, he was singing and rapping, and it was real fun. Stay through the whole presentation, you will definitely learn something.
(a side note: trying to Google all-time players did not bring results, so the above info may be incorrect, but he said he played for Packers till he injured his wrist, still an interesting person, and I found this link about his work http://www.nola.com/mardigras/index....urant_and.html)
Dinner was at the cooking school. While the food was good, beer served, and the desserts were interesting, Harriet the Cook is quit a character. You will “get to know” her whole family due to her funny sarcastic remarks. Recipes of all 5 dishes are on the tables for everyone to take home, this includes pralines. Come in a little early if you can, to browse the gift shop. If you need to place to sit and wait, as they don’t allow entering the classroom early, there is a Jean Lafitte visitors’ center around the corner, half-block to the right, use inside benches to watch a short movie, or courtyard benches in the back.
Overall impression: the city is easy to visit with some tours and public transportation. Lots and lots of elaborate iron work on balconies and door/window bars, in the French Quarter those from the times of slavery. At the same time, elevator mirrors at the hotel are rusty. Tells you something about quality of work. Not much wood used, fences either rot or get eaten by termites. Carriages are driven by mules as horses cannot be used during hot summers.
The weather during the week was strange. Warm, humid, light rain Sunday, warm Monday, cold Tuesday (yes, 57 and windy IS cold!) – warmed up to 70s by Friday. The local cuisine is simple: if it’s not fried, it’s not food. People were nice and accommodating, helpful and friendly, different from the northern areas of the country. Contrary to the popular belief, the iced tea does not have sugar in it, you can add as much or as little as you like.
When some buildings are renovated, the owners try to keep them historically intact, at least the front of it, the façade, with everything else behind it remodeled. The new word for these types of houses is “façadomy”
We really enjoyed the program, and recommend it to everybody who doesn’t feel like visiting New Orleans on their own.
Mar 27th, 2014, 10:59 AM
#4
Sounds like you packed a lot in during the week Faina, loved your report. It brought back memories of our four days there in 2012. We did quite a lot of walking at night and didn't have any problems.
Mar 27th, 2014, 12:20 PM
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Nice report, Dayenu. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.
BTW, I live in part of Florida close to N.O. and visit relatives there often. I order my iced tea 'half & half' and the servers know that means half sweet and half not sweet. All sweet is way too much for me.
BTW, I live in part of Florida close to N.O. and visit relatives there often. I order my iced tea 'half & half' and the servers know that means half sweet and half not sweet. All sweet is way too much for me.
Mar 27th, 2014, 03:34 PM
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Enjoyed your report, but didn't understand the New Orleans-fried food connection. With all the food they're famous for, like oysters, po'boys, gumbo, etouffee, jambalaya, muffulettas, shrimp and all the other seafood, we never eat any fried food there.
I too liked all the beads in the trees; they were everywhere! Too bad you weren't able to take the St. Charles streetcar and spend some time at Audubon Park.
I too liked all the beads in the trees; they were everywhere! Too bad you weren't able to take the St. Charles streetcar and spend some time at Audubon Park.
Mar 27th, 2014, 05:36 PM
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We found a lot of places (not necessarily in the French Quarter - where you'll find a lot of the traditional foods you mentioned ginainmi) seem to have a lot of fried foods. As we left the center of the French Qtr and stayed in hotels and ate at restaurants we were amazed how everything seemed to be fried or served in oil. Even the scrambled eggs in one place - they were floating in oil!
Mar 27th, 2014, 06:59 PM
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Ginainmi, our tour guide was an old man born and raised in NO or around - he said, the cuisine is simple: if it's not fried, it's not food.
We took St Charles street car half way from Canal street, and later went along all St Charles on the tour bus. We packed a lot in just 5 days!
We took St Charles street car half way from Canal street, and later went along all St Charles on the tour bus. We packed a lot in just 5 days!
Mar 27th, 2014, 09:27 PM
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Used to live in NO but awhile ago. We lived there for almost 5 years and loved it-- the folks were amazing. Made some life long Cajun friends and were sorry to leave. That being said, you gotta learn to watch your back,,,!! A young man who worked for DH was murdered in the French quarter in the first few weeks we lived there. Loved the food and I still make a pot of gumbo occasionally.
Mar 29th, 2014, 02:26 PM
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Great report. I am confused by the fried food remark by your tour guide. I have never had fried food in NO. Love the gumbo and red beans and rice. Also had some of the best seafood I have ever had in NO.
Mar 29th, 2014, 06:00 PM
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We were told, most foods start with "holy trinity" - onion, celery, bell peppers - that are fried, after that made into a dish of your choice.
Also roux, as base for sauces, is fried first.
Also roux, as base for sauces, is fried first.
Mar 30th, 2014, 08:08 AM
#20
When I lived in NO there were certainly a lot of fried food offerings and the so-called "Cajun spices" seemed to consist of red pepper and garlic. Thanks for writing and posting this very interesting report.
