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How to experience the Amish near Philadelphia?

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Old May 31st, 2007, 08:12 AM
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How to experience the Amish near Philadelphia?

How to experience the Amish near Philadelphia?

I am looking to explore the region near Philadelphia, specifically relating to the Amish. I'm a landscape photographer/world traveler in search of memorable scenary, viewpoints, nature, the outdoors, cuisine, architecture, and anything else unique, mysterious or original to the local area. What are your personal recommendations (that you've experienced & can vouch for)? Please excluse tourist traps, ripoffs, and overrated attractions. Thx!
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Old May 31st, 2007, 08:28 AM
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This area was the first place my now husband took me for a day trip when I met him after moving to the Wash DC 'burbs years ago. Funny the post should come up now as I was just there (2 hour plus drive one way) 2 weeks ago to have dinner with some friends at my favorite restaurant (see below).

I would start by ordering the autotape tour. You should be able to find it via a websearch tool. Listen to it before you leave home. That will give you some of the history. It will also let you isolate some places you would definitely like to drive to. Then I would just drive around the area.

Certain days are unique to the Amish culture. I belive Monday is 'wash' day when you will see clothes hung on lines behind houses and swaying in the breeze. Friday and Saturday (I believe) are the farmers' market days. Sunday is a good day to observe the family filled carts as they go to church services in homes. Sunday afternoon is a good time to catch the children in their pony carts enjoying some free time. By children, I also mean teenagers.

Lancaster (actually the area just east of Lancaster where the outlet shops are) is not a mecca for the Amish. You will find them more in the Intercourse area and a bit off the beaten path.

As for food, the ONLY place I recommend is a restaurant where food is served family style, Good and Plenty. There are other such establishments in the area, but I have found none to compare with this one. In keeping with their religious beliefs, it is not open on Sunday. Same for any other Amish-run establishment.

I will post more later if I can remember anything else significant to point out.

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Old May 31st, 2007, 08:34 AM
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Sorry...3rd paragraph disappeared while I was editing...redundant and rephrased in other places...sigh! Yes...a post-post editing function would be nice.
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Old May 31st, 2007, 08:43 AM
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If you want to go where the Amish are near Philadelphia AND avoid tourist traps, you've got a problem. Lancaster County is the only one of the former, and it's FILLED with tourist traps. It's impossible to avoid the latter there, so just live with it.

I'll give the same advice I've given to the people who come to Philly and want to see the Amish. Drive out US-30 west of Philly until you just enter Lancaster County. When you get to Gap at Hiway 41, go south, and then almost immediately head west on Hiway 741. After doing so, you'll see several Amish farms. Get off the main road and you'll see more. Stop at any one that's selling stuff (quilts, pies, farm products), and you'll get as close as any visitor will do so.

Continue doing the above as you go west on 741, and as you go north on Hiway 896 at Strasburg. Go past US-30 till you get Hiway 340, then head east. When you get to Hiway 772 in Intercourse, head southeast until you return to US-30.

You won't see a lot of scenery or nature (it's all farmland and shops) or viewpoints (it's pretty flat) or anything mysterious or original (people have been farming here for over 150 years). But the above route will allow you to see authentic Amish farms.

And I apologize in advance for saying the following, but some people just don't know these things. If I'm preaching to the choir, great.
Just be aware that the Amish--
1) are not museum pieces, fossils, tourist guides, or inhabitants of a zoo. They're just people who have chosen to live quite differently from others.
2) do NOT want to be photographed by ANYONE. Don't ask.
3) will not discuss their chosen lifestyle with strangers. If you want to learn about the Amish, you'll have to speak with others who've lived there for several decades.
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Old May 31st, 2007, 09:09 AM
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I agree with Paul's don'ts.

Intercourse and Blue Ball are very good place to see lots of Amish (was last time I was there anyway.
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Old May 31st, 2007, 09:40 AM
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The town names around Lancaster PA are interesting enough by themselves.

Those two town names together = priceless!

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Old May 31st, 2007, 10:12 AM
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Driving the country roads in the area, you will pass farms, some quite photogenic. In one I saw a farmer plowing his field with a team of horses -- very dramatic.

On food, my advice is to skip the local delicacies and head for Gibralter, across from Franklin and Marshall College.

I recommend a visit to the Ephrata Cloister a little north of Lancaster. The former grounds of yet another German religious group. The architecture is striking, almost medieval. Plenty of grounds to wander.
 
Old May 31st, 2007, 11:38 AM
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Paul's route is great. Also just use a map to get to any of the following towns: Intercourse, Blue Ball, Bird-In-Hand, Paradise, Leola, Lititz, Ephrata, New Holland, Nickel Mines, Lampeter and Strasburg. Then put the map aside and turn off onto side roads and get lost. You'll see a lot that way that most tourists don't.

As for cuisine, architecture, unique and original...go into downtown Lancaster. Tons of great restaurants, old buildings, unique shops and art galleries. As an artist, you'd appreciate First Friday's art celebration (the first friday of every month). Just don't go too far south of King St. once you're in the city.

IMO, avoid the family style restaurants (sorry Polly ) as they are bland and touristy. I know people seem to like some of them on these forum boards, but I don't know a single local who eats at them.

If you have any more specific questions, let us know!
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Old May 31st, 2007, 11:50 AM
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The best way to "experience" the Amish is to bike the back roads. You will see a lot more at the slower pace and the Amish are much nicer to someone on a bike than driving a car.
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Old May 31st, 2007, 12:18 PM
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The Good-n-Plenty restaurant will give you freshly prepared food using local products. It's genuine and delicious and we were glad our hotel recommended it to us. Food is served family style with community tables and everyone at our table gave approval. I don't know if only tourists go there, but it is definitely not a tourist trap.

Enjoy the area; it's a refreshing change of pace.

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Old Jun 1st, 2007, 01:58 PM
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Hey! I found the post-posting editing function and corrected (eliminated) paragraph 3 from my original post. Check Fodor's Lounge for the thread titled "Deleting Your Own Post."

Re: Good & Plenty

They serve delicious white and whole wheat sliced loaf bread with scrumptous whipped BUTTER and apple butter, crunchy sweet and sour relish and chow-chow. At least one other relish which I cannot remember now. Their fried chicken (I think it's broasted) is the best I have ever eaten. If you are there on a day when they serve roast beef (always 3 main dishes unless you are with a tour, then only 2), you will experience beef that will melt in your mouth. While I might agree that their side dishes are a tad bland...well, you are eating as they eat. They always serve a fruit pie and shoo-fly pie with choices (as many as you want) or ice cream, sherbert, pudding, jello and tapioca among others.
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Old Jun 1st, 2007, 07:04 PM
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Here's another recommendation for The Cloister in Ephrata. It's interesting historically (an 18th century mystic established a Shaker-type community) and also picturesque.
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Old Jun 6th, 2007, 05:29 PM
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I also recommend Ephrata.

I also agree with Birdie about biking. My husband and I took a summer bike ride around the New Holland area and the scenery was stunning. At one point we saw a lone cow standing in an old mill stream (the mill was still there.) You'll love it.
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Old Jun 6th, 2007, 06:49 PM
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My sister used to live near this area and we saw these folk. Why do you want to "experience" the Amish. They are people with a certain set of beliefs that sets them apart from our everyday world. I think it is rude and crude to photograph them, as a passerby==my suspeicion is that you want that great photo of the buggy on the horizon, or down the long lane. It is an intrusion--they put up with it because they have no other choice.
There is lots of good food and crafts at the Lancaster Central Market.
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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 03:08 PM
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Our best day was when we were searching for a quilt to purchase.
We went to the homes of several Amish women in New Holland area. The businesses were Smuckers Quilts, Lapp Quilts and Witman Quilts. There were interesting and had great products. Much better than the commercial and prices better too. These were run out of the homes/barnes. Some had no electricity and other types of farming, woodworking going on too. As you drive around the small roads, look for small wooden signs which tell the products available at each home. Remember that no business happens on Sundays so plan around this. Also, dress conservatively...they are somewhat offended by scantily dressed people. They were kind and very sweet people. Food was great, especially baked goods. Have fun!!
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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 05:31 PM
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An odd recommendation - seek them by not seeking. I stayed near Atglen this fall for golf of all things and wound up getting a glimpse of the Amish w/o even trying.

On the weekends, I bought much homebaked pastries and other tasty foodie goodies from the back of their farms and got partial glimpse of how they lived without being nosy.

Driving around, especially on Sunday I think, I saw many, many horse drawn carriages and waved to a couple of kids poking their heads out the back, all waving back.

Even saw a family in Radio Shack - that gave me a big huh?

Even if you don't encounter the Amish, you'll run into many photo ops. Rolling hills, farmland, horses, cows, other farm animals, farm implements, churches, etc...

Also a big rec for the museum that holds the Wyeth collection. Forget where that was and the name. Also the barn that was converted into a bookstore. Forget the name of that too. Easily found on the internet though.

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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 08:34 PM
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The Wyeth collection (Andrew, N.C. & Jamie) can be seen at The Brandywine River Museum on Route 1 in Chadds Ford. You can also arrange for tours of N.C.'s studio and the Kuernner farm (where Andrew painted often.)

Baldwin's Book Barn is north on route 100 from Chadds Ford.

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Old Oct 27th, 2007, 05:54 AM
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I just did this last week, thanks to the helpful Fodorites here. As Paul recommended, we traveled out to the rural area of Lancaster County and stayed in Bird-In-Hand. It was really easy to get around this farm area with a map as it's quite spread out and the traffic is not bad (except at rush hour). It IS filled with tourist traps and during the day, the area is crawling with tourists. That doesn't mean this area is devoid of charm. We found a lot to photograph without photographing the Amish people. Also my friend does the PR for a religion-based tourist attraction here in Hawaii, so it was a good way to see how it's done in other states & cultures. (The Mennonite Information Center did an excellent soft sell, by the way, and my friend grabbed all kinds of informational materials to show her client.)

On my way out of the area, I stopped in Downtown Lancaster and took in the Central Market. For some reason that was far less congested than the the tourist-filled Bird-In-Hand farmer's market! Not to mention I met SuCo27's grandfather!
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Old Oct 27th, 2007, 07:49 AM
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i've always found the amish area to be extremely scenic and photogenic. the rolling hills & barns are beautiful. the farm land ever changing with the season. spring is my favorite just after tilling and the soil looks so dark and fresh. < makes good contrast too. i think you'll have a wonderful time just driving around. all the better if you are temporarily lost.

re pics of the amish. they don't want them taken because they adhere strictly to the 2nd commandment in the bible - no graven images. some allow pics if they are in the distance or in shadow i've heard. one of my favorite photos from the area was dozens of carts at a church. no people in them.

have a great time!
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Old Oct 27th, 2007, 02:48 PM
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Yes to Ephrata Cloisters. It's a beautiful place to visit. I have many, many photographs from visits to it. We've stayed in historic Smithton Inn in Ephrata and thoroughly enjoyed it. It's well kept and the breakfasts are very good!
http://www.historicsmithtoninn.com/index.html
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