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-   -   How to be a Dallas native? (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/how-to-be-a-dallas-native-179442/)

lorene Aug 23rd, 2001 02:34 AM

How to be a Dallas native?
 
hi, <BR> <BR>my husband and i are considering a move from london to dallas. he's british, i'm hawaiian. we plan to visit there before april, and were wondering where to go and what to do to get a feel for the local life over there. some friends are thinking of moving to arlington, any info about there would also be appreciated! <BR> <BR>thanks for any help!

xxx Aug 23rd, 2001 04:50 AM

Dallas 101: you have to tease your hair VERY high, buy an overly-pretentious SUV or German sports car, and perfect your "fake" laugh. <BR> <BR>Stay in London!

Owen O'Neill Aug 23rd, 2001 04:58 AM

I'm not a Texan but having visted dalls twice and now more recently visited Austin, I strongly encourage you to also check out Austin if it might fit into your scheme. The geograpjhy is more interesting - more trees, some hills, a well developed city center with older and architecturally interesting buildings and houses, a thriving market for independent music, many great cinemas with independent films... I enjoyed my time there much more than I did in Dallas. I did find the "deep Ellum" section of Dallas to be fun but it's quite limited in size and scope. In all fairness to dallas, I did not have a car when I was there and was limited to the downtown area but many people I spoke with who lived in Dallas expressed a preference for Austin as an interesting place to live.

Arabella Aug 23rd, 2001 05:28 AM

I moved from NYC to Dallas in the early 80s -- such a culture shock. I knew of a couple who actually hired a PR firm to get them established in Dallas. You won't have to go to those lengths. Just become involved in whatever interests you. <BR> <BR>I wouldn't recommend moving to Arlington. Dallas has lovely tree-canopied neighborhoods just north of the downtown area on both sides of Central. Ask about the "M streets" and you'll be pointed to a charming area. <BR> <BR>Good luck!

Sandy Aug 23rd, 2001 06:02 AM

Hi Lorene, <BR> <BR>I'm a born/bred Texan (yes, I do have big hair, I drive a Cadillac, hubby has a Suburban and I have the worst Texas twang you have ever heard). Needless to say, I NEVER blend in when I travel. <BR> <BR>So, all the above info is correct with a few more "really" important pointers: 1) you must like Mexican food (or pretend to like it), 2) you must order your steaks well done, 3) you must smile a lot and be really friendly, and 4) . . . the most important of all . . . you must never, ever tell us how much better everything else was where you came from. <BR> <BR>Oh, and one more thing . . . it's hot here in Texas. You might want to visit us in Aug instead of April to see what it's really like. <BR> <BR>Good luck and we'll be looking for you! <BR>Sandy <BR> <BR>

Christie in Dallas Aug 23rd, 2001 06:04 AM

Lorene- <BR> <BR>I'm a native Dallasiste, and the best advice I can give you is to move as close to your workplace as possible. Dallas traffic in the morning rush hours can be pretty awful. If you'll be working in North Dallas or Plano, then certainly don't move to Arlington or you will be spending at least an hour each way to and from work in the car! Ugh! <BR> <BR>Austin is a nice place if you enjoy the local music scene or you want to go to UT, but I wouldn't want to live there. Austin traffic makes Dallas traffic look like a Sunday drive! They don't have a loop that goes around the city, so everyone just sits parked on I-35 or the MoPac. No thanks! <BR> <BR>Another thing to consider is the current economy here in Texas. The high-tech industries that were flying high last year are now in a major crunch and are laying off workers left and right. If either of you plans to work in this field, I highly advise securing employment before relocating unless you want to work retail for a while! <BR> <BR>Good luck on your move, and feel free to email me with more questions.

Tom Aug 23rd, 2001 06:48 AM

As much as I hate to answer a question with a question, I feel we can help you more knowing what you and your husband are looking to get out of a city? Do you have kids? Do you want to be close to nightlife and a younger crowd? Do you like a more quieter, rural area? Why Dallas? Are you being transferred or just want a change of scenery? <BR> <BR>I have lived here for over 20yrs and love it. There are negative things about the city (you can do a search and find the most people here and too crazy about Texans) but many positives as well. Its in a good central location in the counrty for traveling. The costs of living is reasonable. There is plenty to do on the weekends IMO. And the people are wonderful. <BR> <BR>I would have to agree with an ealier post. Find a place somewhat close to where you work. Or at least close to a major highway. <BR> <BR>If you think you will spend more time in southern Dallas, Arlington might be a great spot for you. They have good schools. Are between Dallas and Ft. Worth so you get the best of both cities. Close to Six Flags and the airport. <BR> <BR>If you think you will be in North Dallas more, look into Plano, Frisco, Irving, Flower Mound or Coppel. <BR> <BR>And from my experience's here, most people order their steaks medium-rare, not well done. And not everyone here is "overly-pretentious" with an SUV, though we do have more than our share. Hope this helps some.

lorene Aug 23rd, 2001 07:52 AM

hi all, <BR> <BR>thanks for all the replies! it's good to get a 'local's' view... <BR> <BR>in reply to tom, we are in our early 30s, looking to start a family in the next year or two. we wanted somewhere that was easy to travel to both london, CA and hawaii that doesn't snow a lot in winter. our friends moving to arlington is another factor. all i have to go on is my sister who visited there and said that she loved it (there for 1 week). we're out of the clubbing phase, and our main hobbies are eating out and going to the movies. i also like outdoor activities like moderate hiking. is dallas still a good place for us? <BR> <BR>thanks to everyone for trying to help us! :)

Owen O'Neill Aug 23rd, 2001 09:06 AM

Are you dead-set on Texas? I've enjoyed my visits there (admittedly liking Austin much more than Dallas and I'm into movies and food) but there are areas where it snows very little (a few inches per year) and may have more to offer in terms of activities you enjoy. One area that comes to mind is northern VA outside of Washington DC. DC and Baltimore BWI are good central airpiorts to fly from (I admit it's a trek to HI but is much closer to UK than TX is). The summers are very warm and muggy but certainly no worse than TX - actually a bit more tolerable. Winters are short and tolerable, it's a nice area geographically and has lots of trees. People I've met who have grown up there or moved there and have families seem very enamored of the area as a place to live. Alexandria is a bit pricey but is a very nice community. Another plus is the fact that the high tech business has not yet been hit quite as hard as TX has - worth considering.

Tom Aug 23rd, 2001 09:43 AM

Arlington could be a great place for you then. There are some very nice homes in that area. Like I said earlier, you are between Dallas and Ft. Worth. You would only be about 20 mins from both downtown Dallas and downtown Ft. Worth. There are TONS of great restaurants in Dallas and Ft. Worth. <BR> <BR>You won't have to worry about snow here. We do get an ice storm or two a year which shuts the city down. Of course be prepared for the unbearably hot summers. From July through Sept. you can expect temperatures to be in the upper 90's. <BR> <BR>As far as getting to Hawaii and London from a central location, I would say the only cities you could do that from are Dallas, Denver, Chicago, and St. Louis. Which all get snow except Dallas. <BR> <BR>There aren't many place, if any, to go hiking. But there are several area lakes that are popular and many golf courses if your into that. You can take a short drive south to areas for good hiking closer to the Austin area. If you like mountain biking, there are several trails around town that aren't too bad either, even with no mountain in site. For the most part, I would say Dallas is not a very "outdoorsy" city as say Denver. I know many people who enjoy camping and being outdoors. But most take a long weekend and drive to Arkansas or Missouri.

Christie Aug 23rd, 2001 10:00 AM

One of the most popular places in Dallas for outdoor recreation is White Rock Lake. It is one of the few truly urban lakes in the USA. They have a 15-mile path that circles the lake that is very popular for running, walking and cycling. There is even a "dog park" where dogs can run around off-leash with their owners. White Rock Lake is a really neat place. <BR> <BR>The bad things about living close to White Rock Lake are that the housing proices are pretty high (Houses in the aforementioned "M Streets" are 2/2 and sell for over $150,000), and the schools there are not the best. Dallas Public Schools is NOT a district that you want your future child to attend! If you did choose to live in the White Rock area, you'd be wise to consider the tuition at one of the many neighborhood private/church schols into your budget. <BR> <BR>And, for the record, I have short hair that is not teased, I don't drive an SUV or German sportscar, and when I do eat steak, I like it cooked medium. People from Dallas are just as normal as those you'll find elsewhere in the USA.

devil'sadvocate Aug 23rd, 2001 10:47 AM

Okay, I hate to be the one to bring up an unpleasant subject, but someone really needs to mention that Texas is VERY conservative. I was born and raised there, so I bring this up reluctantly, but when I return many of my childhood friends shock me with their speech and attitudes about all manner of things.

20's Dallas native who left Aug 23rd, 2001 12:00 PM

Hi <BR>As a Dallas native (who moved to NYC) I find it funny what many people's opinions are of Dallas and Texas! <BR> <BR>First of all, everyone keeps encouraging you to go to Austin. But, being from London, I would say you would enjoy Dallas much more for living. Austin has some nice outdoor activities. But if you're from a bigger city, you will get bored! <BR>Dallas has many many restaurants, if eating out is your thing; it also has great theaters, independent film houses, good museums in Dallas and Ft. Worth, and despite the slowdown, a pretty good economy. If you like the outdoors, it's not the best place to be, however there are lakes within 30 minutes, for boating, as well as White Rock lake, in Dallas, with it's trails and running/biking events. <BR> <BR>Of course, as someone mentioned, do not move there if YOU DON'T LIKE IT HOT because it's hot enough to melt you! The traffic can be horrible, the road systems aren't great, and everything is really spread out (with no good public transporation to speak of). However, the cost of living is low, you can buy a house for comparably less than other cities its size, and Dallas has a lot to offer for people wanting to start a family. <BR>I do know a few people from England who have moved there and like it a lot!! <BR>I would NOT advise anyone to live in Arlington- that doesn't have anything to offer. Try for Dallas, east Dallas, the M Streets, Lakewood area (charming and older), lower Greenville, there are lots of nice areas around. Some of the really developing areas mentioned (coppell and grapevine) are just soooo far out, and the traffic commuting makes it not worth it to live out there! <BR> <BR>Best of luck with your decision!

Christie Aug 23rd, 2001 12:25 PM

Dallas USED TO BE conservative. If you were raised there 20+ years ago, the city has changed dramatically due to the influx of people from other countries and other US states. We now have a horse racing track that does a very good business and a thriving gay and lesbian community. Neither of those things would have been tolerated when I was growing up here, but they are mainstream and accepted today.

Brooke Aug 23rd, 2001 01:45 PM

First, I'm a Dallas native, I have straight hair and drive a Volvo. (Geez, it's postings like Sandy's that give Texans a bad name). And you don't have to like it hot, to move here. Believe me, no one likes 100 degree weather, but we deal with it. I live in Lakewood (one of the places Christie mentioned). Agree where you live should partly considered with where you work. I like the older parts of Dallas - more character and closer to the city vs. the new suburbs. And wanted to tell you that I got married in December and created a long list of restaurants and bars for my guests while they were in town. I posted that list in two separate emails back in December here on the fodors site. You can do a search for it if interested!

Arabella Aug 23rd, 2001 02:27 PM

Lorene, <BR> <BR>Yes, yes, it's broiling hot in August, but I found that the shorter winters made up for the summer heat. <BR> <BR>Here is the URL for Preservation Dallas, which provides info on the historic neighborhoods in Dallas: http://www.preservationdallas.org/pd...ood_links.php3 <BR> <BR>You'll find the Lakewood neighborhood association at http://www.neighborhoodlink.com/dallas/lakewood <BR> <BR>

David Aug 23rd, 2001 06:55 PM

I wouldn't worry as most so-called Texans are usually from some place else anyway. Just call everyone Bubba and tell them you're "fixin" to go and they'll think you're from TX. I'm sure I'll start a slew of responses but I've lived in TX and am speaking from experience.

northern girl Aug 24th, 2001 11:03 AM

my gosh, why move to dallas when you could live in denver or santa fe??? even though i have two grandchildren held hostage in north dallas, i would rate it at the bottom of nice places to live. absolutely no scenery, a couple of months of decent weather, bumper-to-bumper traffic all day, pollution, including white rock "lake". the pits.

Leone Aug 24th, 2001 11:33 AM

Are you sure you want the kind of Washington reps that Texas has sent to try to run our affairs in DC? I mean, people like Tom DeLay (the best reason I can think of for locking up the bug spray from your kids), and Dick Armey (more suited to a nightclub name I think). My god, I almost forgot that amazing C Student from Crawford. Ciao

OliveOyl Aug 24th, 2001 12:40 PM

Well, L...(ahem, and you were last in Texas when?) So instead we should have them move to the Modesto area, that sounds good. Lovely stone walls there!

Bob Aug 24th, 2001 03:48 PM

Another native Texan signing in. Born in Dallas. Graduated from UT in Austin. Now live in the San Francisco Bay area and loving it. <BR> <BR>You are both from areas with oceans and a lot of water. You will miss this in Dallas. There are no natural bodies of water. They are all man made. The ocean is far away in Galveston. The lakes around Dallas are pretty dull. <BR> <BR>Hot is putting it mildly. You will live indoors from May till September. You will sweat and the humidity will get to you. <BR> <BR>Austin v Dallas? Austin wins, no question. Great city, better activities, better landscape. Better climate...still hot, but better. <BR> <BR>If you are locked into the Dallas area check out Richardson. An established city with some great neighborhoods that is closer in. Frisco is another good growth area. If you want class and the old, fine homes that is Highland Park. <BR> <BR>Me? I love Texas and being a Texan, but for year round great living.....San Francisco is the place to be. It is expensive in SF but it is worth it.

lorene Aug 29th, 2001 05:40 AM

wanted to say thx to everyone who posted here, we will have a lot of places to check out on our visit there! aloha for the advice, makes me feel like i will sort of know what i'm doing while on vacation. :)

Hans Aug 29th, 2001 06:18 AM

I'd look at Dallas and then swing through Denver on the way back for comparison. yes, it snows in Denver but not a lot outside of the mountains. Hawaii is one connection away and there's direct flights to London plus lots of outdoors options.

Arlene Aug 29th, 2001 09:38 AM

I am a third generation Texan (on both sides) and I have a few things to share too. I have lived all over the state including San Antonio, Dallas (for 11 years) and currently, Austin. I also have the unique experience of living in England for 3 1/2 years. First of all, Dallas is a great city - it took me a long time to acknowledge that but I am now! It used to be a conservative state, but it HAS changed. At the same time that the Southern Baptist Convention was Dallas, so was the National Transvestite Convention. Dallas: First of all, the music scene is amazing!! This has a lot to do with the world renown music school at the University of North Texas in Denton (45 min north of Dallas) and the Arts Magnet school in Downtown Dallas. <BR>As far as value for the money, Dallas is IT!! Austin is way over priced for what you get and it is first and foremost a College Town or for State employees. It's a lot of fun, but for commerce and property, Dallas is a better deal. The primary thing to remember about Dallas is that it is a city of COMMERCE, as opposed to tourism - people go to Dallas to make money. <BR>I do have to agree that Dallas public schools are considered a laughing stock - The school board is rife with petty bickering drawn on racial lines. However, there are some highly regarded private schools and universities (specifically, Southern Methodist). <BR>There are world class museums - including the Dallas Museum of Art, the African American Museum, and the newly added Women's Museum. There is also a very active underground art scene - look in the Exposition Park area. <BR>While high tech is experiencing some setbacks in Big D, it's not affecting the economy of the city like it is in Austin. Dallas is more diverse in it's economy. I like the current mayor, Ron Kirk; he has a VISION!! He is also planning on running for governor and if he wins will be the first black governor of Texas! <BR>The traffic is crazy but not NEARLY as bad as Houston and considering that the 2000 census ranks Dallas at #9, and Houston now at #10 and insurance rates in Houston are the highest in the state, I think you could probably get used to it. <BR>One of my favorite places is White Rock Lake, it IS man-made but that's what makes it that much more amazing! <BR>To live: Lakewood is nice, it's connected to the Lake and Lower Greenville which also has a creative community and LOTS of good dining (try Ali Baba's, Teppo, and Dodie's). If you are a little more adventurous, try Oak Cliff/Kessler Park - it is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. It hasn't had a very good reputation since the days that Lee Harvey Oswald lived there, but it is experiencing a resurgence and you get a lot for your money! <BR>Personally, I wouldn't live in Arlington, Plano, or Frisco, or any other bland suburb, but that's a personal preference. <BR>I hope you enjoy your trip and good luck.

xxx Aug 29th, 2001 09:59 AM

Am I missing something? Shouldn't you consider finding employment in the US before picking up your lives and moving here? Trust me, the job market is slowing down (highest unemployment claims in 9 years). With fewer jobs to go around, foreigners aren't going to get the first dibs on the good opportunities. HR depts. don't like the extra hassle of green cards and the other problems associated with foreign employees. So unless you offer some special skill that is difficult to come by, I'd highly recommend that you look into the job market and finding yourselves jobs before making any move.

usa Aug 29th, 2001 10:06 AM

I should point out that you would probably be happier if you stayed in one location that had an anchor for you, whether that be family, friends, a job, etc. Although Hawaii and London are about as far apart as you can get (making mutual family visits a problem), you will be happier if you choose one or the other. Why make both of you equally miserable by moving to a place you do not know?


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