Honolulu trip report
 

We returned last week from our first visit to Hawaii, and as we were there only a week, we limited ourselves to Oahu. Taking only a week was a mistake, as we didn't get to see everything we hoped. Its a long flight from Ohio to Hawaii, and warrants a longer stay than we had.

We stayed at the Pacific Beach hotel as it was convenient to many things we wanted to see, and all the busses stop near there (I don't like to rent a car; I'd rather watch the scenery). The hotel was clean and cool (everywhere we went the air conditioning was, in my opinion, excessively cold). They have three restaurants, and we found the Neptune's Garden excellent, although they are closed Sunday and Monday, when we had planned to return. Their main restaurant (the Oceanarium) seems to have a constant buffet, but we only went there for breakfasts, and chose to order from the menu; the food was fairly good, and we enjoyed watching the display in their aquarium. On Sunday, we tried to go there after finding Neptune's grill was closed, but they didn't have a ready table, so we went a couple of blocks to dkSteakhouse, where the food again was quite good. During the week, we also enjoyed eating at Keoni's and Teddy's Bigger Burgers. I hadn't liked pineapple, but it shows up in or on a lot of dishes there, and I actually started to grow fond of it. They served a slice of fried pineapple with our breakfasts; at first I thought it was just a garnish, but I was hungry so I ate it and it was quite good.

We were tired on arrival, so just walked a bit on the beach, then went to bed early, which of course meant we were up very early the next day. That suited me since we were going to Pearl Harbor and everyone says get there early; alas, everyone apparently has read that, so when our bus pulled in before 0700, there was already quite a line, but we survived. People going there should be forewarned that TSA-like security measures have been placed into effect; you can carry nothing that would contain anything, even a purse, so we all had to check our totes and purses and stuff all our belongings into whatever pockets we had. They apparently think the Arizona is going to be attacked again! Interestingly, they never actually screened you, so you could have a weapon; you just can't have a weapon in your purse. Despite the security games, it was a moving visit; we also took the bus to tour the Missouri, which was uncrowded and quite interesting. We didn't tour the Bowfin, as we have a WWII sub in Cleveland and we had toured that, but the Bowfin did not appear to be at all crowded. We planned to eat there, but they got hysterical as we entered the cafe as we had redeemed our tote, so we just left and caught the bus back to our hotel and observed the beach for the rest of the day. Incidentally, the municipal bus system has a site at http://www.thebus.org that includes instructions on how to get to many interesting places; we found it quite useful.

The next day we took the circle island bus, which is a local bus that skirts Oahu (there are multiple routes). It was interesting to see everything (I do mean local), but it is slow and there are no stops at scenic points, so if I had it to do again, I think we would not have spent a whole day on this. We stopped at Ala Moana shopping center (this is where one catches the circle island bus) and ate in the food court; it was bedlam in there (indeed in the whole shopping center) but we had a Mexican lunch that was not bad. I'm glad my wife isn't a serious shopper, and we were both glad to get out of there.

The next day was really full. We started with a bus ride to Foster Botanical Garden. Accustomed to home time still, we got there early and had to wait a few minutes after visiting the Buddhist temple (well worth a visit) before the gates to the gardens were opened. This is right in the center of the city, but has a wealth of flora that was exotic to us. We met a native who said he lived withing blocks of the gardens, but had never visited, and he too was impressed. Neither my wife nor I is deeply into flora, but we still spent over two hours here; someone with more of an appreciation could certainly spend longer.

We then walked a few blocks to Chinatown, for an early lunch at Legend Seafood. We were after the breakfast crush and before what I assume would be a lunch crush, but there were still a decent number of people there and the food was quite interesting; I hesitate to say whether it was quite good, due to inexperience, but both of us liked what we had quite a bit. We then explored Chinatown for a couple of hours, including getting a nice lei for my wife, and souvenirs for our kids and grandkids, before finding our way to the waterfront and Aloha tower. The shopping center there was much more relaxed and it was a very pleasant place to visit. The tower (at least they search your tote here, and let you take it in) is an excellent place to get some orientation and pictures.

We then went next door to the maritime museum, which had a lot of interesting displays and a good gift shop. Alas, the tall ship they have there was not open, and I had really wanted to crawl over that. We then went back to the hotel, quite tired. I think this was too much for one day, and if we return, we would probably add one of the downtown venues, and do this in two days.

The next day we were back on the circle island bus to visit the Waimea Valley Audubon center near Haleiwa. In retrospect, I would skip the day we spent on the circle island bus earlier, and substitute this trip, as you can see most of the same scenery. The center is a valley that is being restored to an almost pristine state, with more exotic flora, and even some fauna. I think the valley is about a mile to the upper end, where there is (if weather has been right) an active waterfall and a little pond which was full of swimmers. Because of multiple trails, you can actually have quite a hike, and learn a lot from the displays, including labels on many trees. I took far more pictures here than I had planned, and had to break out my backup flash drive and battery. There are facilities here, including a snack bar, and an interesting gift shop. I would recommend a visit here to anyone, longer if you are very interested in exotic growths.

We were now on our last full day, so I risked my life visiting Diamond head. The public bus drops you off perhaps 3/4 mile from the entrance to the tunnel, so you have a bit of a hike getting in, but it is easy walking. The ascent up Diamond head starts easy (it was a hot day, but breezes cooled us, and we had water with us), but soon the paved portion ends and the trail becomes difficult to walk, if you have old legs and stiff ankles. We stopped often and let the people we were holding up pass us, and finally reached the top, where the winds cool you and the views inspire you. The walk back down is over the same narrow, rutted path, and my ankles still have not recovered. Also, there are no comfort stations except at the base, so all of us who were drinking a lot of water were eager to reach the bottom. I guess we are getting old, but I would plan nothing but meals and beach lounging of the day one climbs Diamond head.

Monday was our day to fly home, but the flight didn't leave until 2300, so we checked out of our hotel (they offered a late checkout, bus we declined) and they held our bags until 1800, when our shuttle to the airport was to pick us up. We walked over to Ft. Derussy and looked around the Hale Koa military resort (we had initially planned to stay there, but they are booked almost a year in advance) and it was quite nice. For our next visit, we will plan far enough in advance to stay there. We then caught a bus to the aquarium, which had a lot of nice and educational displays. We then visited the old natatorium and proceeded past it to the Hau Tree Lanai in the New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel for lunch. This is the place Fodor's guide mentions where Robert Louis Stevenson wrote and enjoyed the view. We had a very pleasant and reasonable lunch there ($34 plus tip, no alcohol) enjoying the view and the breeze. I would definitely return. We then walked back to the Pacific Beach Hotel and enjoyed coffee at their outdoor coffee bar.

We didn't see the thrilling surf they show on TV, but I think that was due to the season we were there. Next time we will probably go during the winter, to see the surf and not see the snow. Our greatest disappointment on this trip was that we didn't get to visit the Polynesian Cultural Center, so we still don't know what poi tastes like.

We got to the airport on time, and finally made it home. We were flying Continental and I had sprung for business class, so we were able to enjoy the President's lounge in Honolulu. While the fare on this flight is reasonable, I still think the premium you pay for posher seats and better food with drinks) is not worth what you get, but perhaps that reflects a lifetime of living frugally.

Incidentally, our flight itinerary, created by Continental, had us arriving in Houston five minutes after boarding for our connecting flight began, and there were some delays with the original flight which made me think there was no way we would make our connection. I asked a flight attendant what to do (sometimes they have asked other passengers to remain on board and let those with close connection deplane first) and she said since there were nine people on board trying to make that connection, Continental was holding the connecting plane. We did rush through IAH, but even people who were after us were accommodated. My wife anticipated that our bags wouldn't make the connection (not really a problem when you are arriving at your home airport), but they did.

Nice report, and I'm glad you enjoyed your trip. I have never had enough time in Hawaii.

My husband and I (seniors) climbed Diamond Head last year. On our way back down, a young woman passed us and then turned around, came back, and told us how much she admired us for doing it! I said to my husband that it's bad enough to get older without having young whippersnappers congratulate us on it.

P.S. Poi doesn't have any taste.

sounds like you had a nice visit!

I'll have to disagee on poi. Many of us love the taste! And you don't have to go to a luau or PCC to enjoy it...They sell it at Safeway and other markets. It is so popular though that it often sells out.

I love poi! And...Glad that you like the pineapple! It's supposed to be good for digestion.

Also glad you had a nice time, and you are ANOTHER fodorite who has learned that Oahu is not hard to love. I'm glad you liked my mall; I hope you got the coupons from our website?
www.alohatower.com/promotions.html

Ah, so you missed the Polynesian Cultural Center. No problem, just come back!

I enjoyed your report! I am off to Waikiki next month and you gave some useful tips. Thanks!

Hi, good report. Husband and I are off to Hawaii in October - last leg of a 6 month trip, heading back to Australia. Have been to Singapore, Europe, U.S. Canada (where we are now), going to do an Inside Passage Cruise in Alaska, back to U.S. (San Fran. L.A. Las Vagas etc.) then hit Oahu - thinking of staying at the Ocean Resort Hotel in Waikiki...

Have picked up some useful tips from your post...thanks.

I didn't care for poi till I had poi pancakes at a couple places. Yummo!

Thanks for the great trip report clevelandbrown.

Thanks for a great report, clevelandbrown. Really enjoyed reading it. ((r))