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palmies Jul 25th, 2008 08:43 AM

Hiking in Yellowstone and GTNP
 
My husband and I are about 2 1/2 weeks away from our vacation to RMNP, GTNP and Yellowstone....and let me tell you, I can't wait!

I've pretty much got our 2 days in RMNP worked out as far as hiking and other activities because I have a close friend living in Denver. She gave great recommendations.

However, for GTNP (1.5 days in the park) and Yellowstone (4 days in the park), I'm a bit overwhelmed by which hikes to tackle. I have a hiking book from 1997, in which I've highlighted hikes that look like fun. However, I'm looking for something a bit more current, possibly a website to provide comprehensive trail information. There is a website called protrails.com, which is exactly the type of information I'm seeking, but they don't cover hikes in Wyoming.

Does anyone know of any websites that give detailed accounts or descriptions of trails. I feel that this will help me the most in making my decisions and developing at least a rough itinerary for each day.

Thanks!!

P.S. - Probably also helpful to know: My hubby and I aren't super experienced hikers, but we are in our late 20's and are athletic. This will actually be my 3rd visit to YNP, but his first. I would prefer hikes that are approx. 6 mi. or less round trip.

maj Jul 25th, 2008 10:17 AM

In the Tetons you can either take the ferry across Jenny Lake or hike around part of the lake (or do both -- one over and the other back) to the Hidden Falls/ Inspiration Point hike. You can make this as long as you want if you continue on the Cascade Canyon trail. (I highly recommend continuing on for a while at least -- most people turn around at some point.) This hike can be crowded to Hidden Falls, but people drop off on the way to Inspiration Point and even more in Cascade Canyon.

In Yellowstone we really liked the Fairy Falls hike. Continue on to Imperial Geyser. We also then climbed up one of the Buttes above the Geyser. Two other popular hikes in the Geyser basin area are Mystic Falls and Lone Star Geyser (check to see when it erupts before you go). Also at Old Faithful area, along with the boardwalks, go to Observation Point, continue past Solitary Geyser and back down.

Mt. Washburn, Yellowstone River Picnic area -- coming back by Speciman Ridge trail, Trout Lake hike, Elephant Back, Pelican Creek are very popular. The trail that starts at Artist Point (at Canyon), and goes by Ribbon and Clear Lake is very popular.The North Rim part of Canyon is closed this year so I'm not sure if you can walk along there, but the South Rim trail from the Bridge to Artist Point is a nice walk.

Artist Paint Pots trail is closed indefinitely as is the trail to Tower Falls. Beaver Pond trail is popular by Mammoth.

You will find that there is so much to see in both parks that you're not going to be hiking as much as you think. For 4 days I would concentrate on one part of the loop each day -- maybe do one hike in that area.

You will do plenty of walking around the attractions like West Thumb, Old Faithful and any of the other Geyser basins in that part of the park, Canyon -- Uncle Tom's Trail, Mammoth Hot Springs, Mud Volcano, Norris, etc. And leave plenty of time for the animal sightings -- the best part of the trip IMO.

Don't know of a specific web site -- I've just accumulated this information over the years and we've done most of them, but you can look up descriptions of any of them if you want. They would all fit in your criteria.




jere1mt Jul 25th, 2008 05:27 PM

Probably best to check with the rangers when you arrive. Have some idea which ones you would like to do but on any given day a trail maybe closed so the rangers can give you up to date info and maybe suggest one you have not considered. You will see so much more of the park by doing some hiking than just driving past the features, have a great trip.

maj Jul 25th, 2008 05:53 PM

Thought of some other things, one of which was to check with the rangers (as noted above). Also, since you are going in the summer some of the hikes you will definitely want to do in the morning (thinking of Mt. Washburn in particular) because of the lack of shade on some trails -- the sun can get really hot. Take plenty of water with you. And, although you will be in RMNP first so it shouldn't be a problem for you, the altitude can be a factor when you first start hiking in the mountains.

bob_brown Jul 25th, 2008 08:03 PM

If you are fit, then I think that Amphitheater Lake is a good one. It will challenge you a little. I have, however, seen really fit people jog up there!!!!!!!

I think it is rewarding because you get good views of Jackson Hole through the trees, and the lake itself provides a viewing aperture for a look almost straight up to the summit of the Grand Teton.

The lake itself is an average sized alpine lake on the flank of a steep mountain, but it is nonetheless scenic.

If the train has been maintained since I was there, you should be ok in terms of the trail surface.

Climbers sometimes use the first of the trail for one of the alpine routes to the summit of the Grand.

If you have only day and a half, I think this would be a good half day that would leave you hiked out for a while afterwards.

I also recommend the museum at Colter Bay. It is small, but I found it to be rewarding.

One other must do in my experience is to drive up Signal Mountain and walk to the southern viewpoint just before the end of the road.

I suggest taking this drive early!
Otherwise you will have trouble finding a place to park.

If you have a camera, I will warn you that this is a tough photoshoot.
If your camera is digital and you can look at your results, I suggest setting the lens opening around F8 or so, and then start experimenting with different shutter speeds in a step-wise progression.

You may take 6 exposures to get one keeper, but when you find the right blend of shutter and lens opening, you should have your mark.

If your camera has only auto settings, you may well end up with overexposed pictures. In the mountains I find I have to take several shots to get the right exposure. I do this in manual mode so I can exercise some control over it.

In the Swiss Alps for example, particularly in the Berner Oberland where one is looking south, overexposure is common when shooting in the automatic mode because the light meter is fooled by the conditions.

Also the light probably will be at its best in the morning. Just be prepared to take quite a few exposures just to get a few keepers.


BayouGal Jul 26th, 2008 10:41 AM

You have some expert advice here. Experienced or not, at your age you are going to love hiking these parks! We could be your parents, and we loved all the hiking we attempted.

This is an old hiking thread of mine that may be helpful:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34821819

Photodog Jul 27th, 2008 06:24 AM

Couple of websites to check out for Yellowstone-www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/hiking. Or www.yellowstone-natl-park.com/wwwboard/chat2.htm. If you leave off the hiking you will get everything you possibly want to know. Same is true for Tetons but substitute grte for yell. Can also check out www.backpacker.com. They have trip reports and blogs.

palmies Jul 28th, 2008 08:02 AM

Great info folks! I'll definitely research all of your recommendations before I go. The information about the closed trails is extremely helpful as well...I was upset to hear about the Artist Paint Pots - that was a fun little stop on previous trips.

to bob_brown: Thanks for the camera suggestions. I think I'm going to leave most of the picture taking up to my husband. He has a pretty nice Canon digital SLR with options for manual setting and about 3 different lense attachments. He's even considering renting a wide angle lens for the trip to get some panoramic type shots. In addition, we are bringing out laptop just so we can transfer the pictures each evening and wipe the memory card clean for the next day. I expect he will take 400 - 500 pictures each day. He's obsessed!

maj Jul 28th, 2008 09:22 AM

Here is a link for why Artist Paint Pots is closed. You can check when you get there if it has reopened, but from other forums I have read recently, it hasn't opened yet.

http://www.nps.gov/yell/parknews/08039.htm

Have a great trip -- and would love to know how it went after you return. Especially interested in details about the RMNP part since we haven't made it there yet.

jet519 Jul 28th, 2008 06:29 PM

This sounds like a wonderful trip. I wish I was going with you! 143-Mom

palmies Jul 29th, 2008 07:57 AM

I will most likely be posting a Travel Blog during and following the trip. I will definitely post a link on Fodors when I return.

Thanks again!

maj Aug 2nd, 2008 05:50 AM

palmies

If you haven't left yet, part of Artist Paint Pots trail is supposed to open today and the rest later this month.


http://www.nps.gov/yell/parknews/08065.htm

palmies Aug 4th, 2008 08:08 AM

Good news! Thanks for the heads up! Now if they would just open up the North Rim of the Canyon, we could see it all.

spirobulldog Aug 4th, 2008 12:33 PM

Most first timers to Yellowstone don't hike near as much as they think they might IMO. There is simply to much to see and stops along the road that are spontaneous. Do have some hiking planned, but don't overkill. I would for sure hike the trails around the Geysers at Old Faithful. See Castle Geyser if at all possible. It goes every 13 hours. I would into or around the Canyon area as well. You will have a great time in Yellowstone/GTNP.

swisshiker Aug 13th, 2008 05:51 AM

To Bob Brown: re the Signal Mountain hike.

As this is one of your "must do" hikes, I am now researching this hike (as your BO hikes are always spot on!!).

I cannot believe that in all the times we have been to this area, that we have not done this hike. Better late than never.

So I just want to be sure I get this right. This is what I have found:

<i> &quot;There are two small parking lots near the top of Signal Mountain. The first one, at 7593 feet, is the one with the view out toward the Tetons (sunset is great there); from the second one we can walk a little and look down at Oxbow Bend.&quot;</i>

Do I assume correctly that the hike to which you are speaking would be the second one? And what kind of a hike is it? (You can use referenes to the BO area - Mannlichen to KS, for example - if that works for you.)

Thanks so much.


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