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smetz Apr 27th, 2010 04:48 AM

Hikes in Zion NP
 
My wife and I will be in Zion (staying in Springdale at Desert Pearl) for two nights in late June, arriving probably early afternoon on Saturday, and leaving early Sunday morning. I'm thinking we'll have time for one longish hike and maybe two short ones, and I'd like recommendations.

I think that the long hike will be Angel's Landing, but - assuming that we don't go past Scout's Lookout, is there another moderate to strenuous hike that would provide views as good, e.g. Observation Point?

For the shorter hikes I'm thinking River Walk, plus maybe a short push up the Narrows, but not too far, as my wife has foot problems, and has had surgery. Are the lower reaches of the Narrows easier to traverse than the farther?

What would you suggest for another shorter hike?

J62 Apr 27th, 2010 06:43 AM

The start of the narrows is a leisurely 1mile walk on a paved path from the bus stop. From there, you can walk as little as 50 yards or several miles up the narrows - your call. About 100 yards or so will get you past the splash-in-the water crowds. I recommend you go at least past a few bends in the river so you get the full slot canyon perspective up/downstream. You don't need to go far at all.

Late June it will be hot, very hot in Zion. I recommend you do the narrows on Saturday, and a dry hike early sunday to avoid the mid-day/afternoon heat.

bigtyke Apr 27th, 2010 07:21 AM

Emerald Pools. We went to the 2nd pool. Short but a climb - nothing scary.

Myer Apr 27th, 2010 07:27 AM

There's a difference between strenuous and difficult, dangerous and/or walking in water up to your waist.

You've got to decide first which you are prepared to do.

Also, while Zion doesn't have the elevation of Bryce it's still about 4,000 feet up. This is enough to feel it but not know why. If you're not used to it or acclimatised (a day or two) you'll run out of steam easily.

smetz Apr 27th, 2010 10:13 AM

Thanks J62 & bigtyke, helpful info.

Myer, I'd say moderate is best for us, moderate to difficult is ok, but probably not strenuous and definitely not dangerous.

We are both in pretty good shape and can walk many miles without fatigue, and we normally plan on a lot of walking and hiking during vacations. We are also preparing for the hikes on this trip with some hilly hiking though we don't live near any mountains) and gym work here at home. That said, my wife had chemotherapy a few years ago, and she has also had foot reconstruction surgery due to bunions. Plus I'm not exactly afraid of heights, but I don't particularly like them either.

I don't want to do anything stupid, so I think going past Scout's Lookout is probably out for us, as is making any long trek up the Narrows that would involve deep water where the footing is uncertain. For that matter, if the beginning of the Narrows would involve any deeper water with uncertain footing, that is maybe out too.

We don't want to ruin our vacation, and if I came back without her, I'd have some 'splainin to do!

spirobulldog Apr 27th, 2010 11:05 AM

I don't consider Angels Landing as dangerous. It is more likely to die driving in the park than hiking the trail. Yes, it does need respect for the last part of it. But, it along with The Narrows are two of my very favorite hikes. The Narrows is really fairly easy, but somewhat slippery. Do rent shoes from Zion Adventure Co. as it really helps. Do have two walking sticks to stabel yourself. Canyon Overlook Trail is nice trail as well. Even to Scouts Lookout, the trail to AL is pretty darn tough. The last part isn't super tough, but is more likely to get you mentally. It's hard to estimate your wife's ability. I think the main thing would be to know how far she can go before you come. One thing about The Narrows is that it is cool in the summer and you can take as much time as you like. We went all the way to Orderville Canyon Junction. I think the hike took us about 4-5 hours. We did get up to our waist a few times, but never any swimming.

Myer Apr 27th, 2010 12:28 PM

I think you may also want to factor in the fact that there will be major road construction this summer at the east entrance. Somewhere near the switchbacks.

Depending upon that, Canyon Overlook may not be a good choice. Too bad.

There will be partial closures and deelays. I don't know your route in. But if it's from the east you may want to think of adding an hour and looping around.

lvk Apr 27th, 2010 01:19 PM

I think that even with the rented special boots, the Narrows may not be ideal for someone who has undergone foot reconstruction surgery. It is rocky, slippery and uneven in many spots, even at the beginning.

Riverwalk and Emerald Pools would be fine.

smetz Apr 27th, 2010 01:41 PM

Myer - I'm coming in from the west, but leaving toward the east to go to Page on Monday. I have read about the road construction on the Zion website. It looks like the alternative would be to go back west on 9, then take 59/389 back toward the east to pick up 89. It looks like this would add about an hour. I have gotten other advice, though, that even with the delay going east out of the park, it may be worth it since the scenery is so good. What say you?

lvk - you hit the nail on the head, and thanks for the advice. Of course, I'm thinking of all these precautions for her, but it would probably be me who would break my leg in the Narrows or fall off Angel's Landing...

christy1 Apr 27th, 2010 01:52 PM

You can always just turn around in the Narrows if it proved to be a problem (unless you know that rocky footing will be a problem), but like another poster recommended, I'd at least try to do the little bit past the splash in the water crowd. It's really magical and so few people try to venture far past the paved path. That is in sharp contrast to some of the easier walks in the canyon, like Emerald Pools or the Riverwalk, which will be very crowded.

Myer Apr 27th, 2010 02:13 PM

I think you can call the visitors center the day you leave and they'll tell you the status. It's possible that early or late the traffic won't be bad.

It's also possible that many people will make other arrangements this summer.

"Scenic" is enjoyable when you're moving at a reasonable pace. It's not very enjoyable jumper to bumper. Regardless what's around you.

I'll be there in mid-September with my duaghter. I've been there before. I would have liked to hike Canyon Overlook.

We'll be coming in from the east and leaving thru the west. We'll decide at the last minute what to do.

OO Apr 27th, 2010 03:34 PM

The last part of Angels Landing was not for me. Physically I could have done it, but not mentally. Neither could my DH nor 20 something son. Our DD and SIL did make it all the way. For me it wouldn't have been the least bit enjoyable--sheer drops freak me out badly.

Another nice hike is Hidden Canyon. As I recall, that has a short section of chains, but not that bad. At least you have a wall against one side, not drop-offs on both, and the canyon at the end is so pretty!

Actually...I don't think I've had a "bad" hike at Zion although I didn't particularly enjoy the paved portion of the Narrows. Too many people. Enjoy yourselves. You are in for a treat!

elnap29 Apr 27th, 2010 05:44 PM

I think the Angel's Landing Trail to Scout's Lookout will be just about perfect. It's sort of a paved trail but is strenuous because of elevation climb. Just take it slow and easy using your wife's pace.

I would not recommend Hidden Canyon in your case. We've hiked this many times without issue, but I took a nasty fall here just a week ago. There is a lot of loose sand on rock and it's very slippery. I've also seen grown men crying and hanging onto the chains - so it really depends on what your level of comfort is. With your wife's foot issues, she may find some of the rock scrambling too uneven for her feet.

The Narrows is fabulous but will be a bit of an issue for your wife's feet. We usually wear our hiking boots (it's so hot in the summer your shoes will dry overnight)for support. There is a trick to walking this safely. Use your hiking poles to test water depth and where to place your feet. Watch the river closely to determine the best crossing. There's no big committment. Just go slowly and carefully and then turn back after you've had a comfortable taste of it.

Observation Point Trail is my favorite. Again, you don't have to go all the way to the top to enjoy it. Even walking up the switchbacks on the first leg will provide a stupendous view, and the first forest (in Echo Canyon, I think?) is a delightful surprise. The entire trail is 8 miles round-trip.
Have a great time!

elnap29 Apr 27th, 2010 09:24 PM

Thought of another short hike for you:

There is an unmarked trail along the river just behind the horse corral (across from the lodge). It is level dirt, so it shouldn't be troublesome for your wife's feet, and it is somewhat shady. It follows the river and goes to Court of the Patriarchs. Lovely views and lots of wildlife. Return the same way or take the shuttle back.

Another one:
Take the shuttle to the picnic grounds ("The Grotto"), cross the river on the bridge and turn left onto the Kayenta Trail (instead of right to Angel's Landing). Follow this trail to the lower Emerald Pool. Then take the Emerald Pool trail to the lodge.

At dusk (or late in the day, so it's cooler and you are in the shadows), walk the Pa'rus Trail from the Visitor Center to the mouth of Zion Canyon and back (or catch the shuttle if you are tired). This trail is paved and often used by bicyclists. Follows the river.

smetz Apr 28th, 2010 03:19 AM

elnap & OO, great suggestions, thanks.

spirobulldog Apr 28th, 2010 08:14 AM

The canyon overlook trailhead has a small parking lot right before the tunnel entrance. The parking lot appears to be for employees for the entrance. I think most people never realize it is there.

sharondi Apr 29th, 2010 04:10 AM

Smetz,
Canyon Overlook is a really scenic short hike - trailhead is located just past the east entrance to the tunnel (as you're leaving thru east entrance) as spirobulldog mentioned. I don't think your wife would have any problems with this trail.

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/85429039

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/85429050

Angel's Landing is just too crowded for us to be enjoyable. I've been to the top on past trips but my husband and I couldn't imagine having to push our way up the chains thru the crowd of people hiking down. We just turned around at that point and found the West Rim Trail and walked that for a few miles. It was really great and there wasn't a soul on it! Great views and solitude. Just what we like. And no one ever mentions it.

iamq Apr 29th, 2010 04:40 AM

booking

smetz Apr 29th, 2010 04:41 AM

So it sounds like a hike up to Scout's Landing, then out on the West Rim trail a ways before returning could be a good way to go for a long hike, or Observation Point.

For shorter hikes, Canyon Overlook depending on traffic, River Walk & maybe a little part of the Narrows, and Emerald Pools.

Lots of good info here, thanks.

Placename Apr 29th, 2010 08:32 AM

Think twice about Angel's Landing. There have been several fatal falls in the last year on the trail. Fatal, people went over the edge and fell 1800 feet to their death.

lvk Apr 29th, 2010 09:50 AM

The way to avoid crowds on the Riverwalk/Narrows is to be on the very first shuttle bus in the morning. There was only one other family on the bus when we did this. That family turned around after the first bend in the Narrows, and we had the rest of the hike to ourselves (they were wearing running shoes and had short branch-like hiking sticks). We didn't start seeing crowds until well into the return hike from Orderville Canyon.

Early the next morning DD and others in our group hiked Angel's Landing and didn't have a problem with crowds, either.

Otis_B_Driftwood Apr 29th, 2010 03:50 PM

Zion has loads of great hikes. It's right up there with Yosemite in my opinion but like Yosemite has crowd problems in high season.

I've done the Angel's Landing hike a couple of times, but on both occasions, not everyone in the party made it all the way. There is a severe vertigo sensation that upsets many people and if you are not in good shape and can't keep your footing, it's best not to attempt it. The rush and satisfaction though, of standing on top, is awesome. This is a crowded trail and I would not consider doing it except for first thing in the morning.

The Observation Point Trail is really the utlimate Canyon view hike in Zion. However, it's a killer because of the over 2000 foot elevation gain and exposure to the hot sun. Again, it's best done real early in the am.

An alternative way to Observation Point is via the East Mesa Trail. This trail is easy and mostly level at a fairly high elevation that enjoys cooling breezes. The hard part is finding the trailhead which is outside the Park past the East Entrance. We were given excellent directions by a ranger in the main Visitor Center.

The Narrows is awesome too but is best, in my opinion, on a really hot day when the temperature is around 100 or higher. That river is cold and I hate having to wear a wetsuit when canyoning for any distance. Mid-June to mid-September is best but this is also when thunderstorms can threaten making the hike impossible. For many reasons, June may be the best month for this hike.

Here's a good website to look at for information about Zion hikes:

http://www.citrusmilo.com/zionguide/

spirobulldog Apr 29th, 2010 05:11 PM

Placename- There has been something like 8 fatalities on AL in the parks history. Many more traffic deaths than that in the area. Many more deaths in The Narrow than Angels Landing. You could fall, but in my opinion you would have to be very careless to fall. About half of the deaths have been people acting foolishly.

spirobulldog Apr 29th, 2010 05:16 PM

Otis- that is a great site, that I used when we went to Zion. Description are great and accurate.

smetz Apr 30th, 2010 03:37 AM

Thanks for the tips and the link, Otis

spiro - good point - the only question that comes to mind statistically is, the number of deaths per auto passenger in zion, versus the number of deaths per hiker on AL. That's the only way to really say that driving in zion is more dangerous than hiking AL. But your point is well taken, that you'd really have to screw up to cause your death during the hike.

smetz Apr 30th, 2010 03:39 AM

PS - actually I think the NPS website indicates that the most deaths have occurred at Emerald Pools. Doesn't say why, but probably has something to do with the waterfalls?

spirobulldog Apr 30th, 2010 04:09 AM

Most deaths have occured in The Narrows. A flash flood several times has claimed multiple fatalities. Sadly, I read they had 3 deaths this week. One on AL and the other 2 in The Narrows. I also read they have had several climbing deaths.

smetz Apr 30th, 2010 05:51 AM

Yes, I read about the pair of rafters who died on the Narrows - didn't sound like they were being very smart about their trip. Didn't hear about the 3rd one though.

spirobulldog Apr 30th, 2010 06:03 AM

On a different note, we really like the Butternut Squash Enchiladas at The Whiptail Grill in Springdale. It is in an old gas station and a little funky, but the food was really good. I would also have a meal at Zion Lodge and have lunch or ice cream under the big tree just outside the lodge. You might see deer or wild turkeys by the tree. During the day many people sit out on the lawn.

spirobulldog Apr 30th, 2010 06:09 AM

http://www.photoworks.com/slideshow/...1?source=pw980

link to our pics from trip to zion-October 08

bachslunch Apr 30th, 2010 06:33 AM

What little I've been able to find online about the Emerald Pools Trail deaths suggest two things, both avoidable with common sense:

--stay on the trail and don't try wandering past it too close to the cliff edge.

--there is a ledge area with a small stream in the Middle Emerald Pools part of the trail, which apparently is slick with algae (its green color gives the pools their name). There apparently have been people who have walked too close to the ledge in this area, slipped on the algae, then slid across and over the ledge to their death. Zion's website suggests there are chains in this area to keep people away from the problem spot, though it's unclear if they have always been there.

I've hiked this trail and had no concerns. My reaction is that one would have to be really reckless or profoundly unlucky (sudden heart attack, for example) to fall fatally here.

Angel's Landing's fatalities seem to have occurred at or beyond Scout's Lookout, apparently from slips of various kinds that resulted in long drops below. It seems at least one fatal fall resulted from a reckless risk -- the Salt Lake Tribune reported recently that about six years ago one Boy Scout bet another one he couldn't crawl out onto a ledge and scratch his name into the side of a cliff.

I didn't hike this trail when I visited the park.

smetz Apr 30th, 2010 06:43 AM

Thanks for those excellent pictures, spiro.

bachslunch - that makes a lot of sense. One other thing that I have heard though is that due to the elevation of Angels Landing, it can still have ice and snow in the spring. I imagine that would make it a little more tricky!

Placename Apr 30th, 2010 07:15 AM

The two deaths in the Narrows were really stupid:

On Sunday, April 25th, rangers received a report of an overdue party from a float trip down though the Virgin River Narrows. Investigation revealed that two 23-year-old men from Las Vegas had hiked into the Narrows with the intent of constructing a log raft and floating approximately 50 miles through the Narrows to Hurricane, Utah. The men were not equipped with wetsuits or PFDs, did not have whitewater rafting experience, and had limited camping experience, little food and no overnight gear. They told their father that they intended to record their entire trip on video camera as an entry into the “Man vs. Wild” competition. The SAR operation concluded on April 26th when both bodies and a small amount of personal gear were recovered from the river. [Submitted by Cindy Purcell, Chief Ranger]

dcd May 6th, 2010 02:48 PM

We spent 2 nites at the Desert Pearl last week. Nice place!! In Springdale, you might try Oscar's Cafe (http://www.cafeoscars.com/) for breakfast, lunch and/or dinner. We ate there for breakfast and dinner. Very good food at reasonable prices. But like most restaurants in that part of the world, the portions are generally huge. We ended up splitting things.

We thought a day and a half was sufficient to do some of the hikes and get a feel for Zion. You've gotten great advice here on the trails. The weather will be your wild card, both heat and rain being the main factors.

One other thought. If you're going to be in any of the other Utah national parks, you might consider picking up "50 Best Short Hikes in Utah's National Parks": http://tinyurl.com/23ps9kp We picked it up from one of the national parks' gift shops (Arches I think) and it was very helpful.

We were in Zion when they fished those 2 kids out. Very sad. Narrows was closed for that reason plus the fact the water was way too high for hiking.

spirobulldog May 6th, 2010 03:48 PM

I think they close AL if there is ice on it.

smetz May 6th, 2010 06:00 PM

Thanks dcd, I had Oscar's on my list of potential restaurants in Springdale, so it's good to get an endorsement.

lvk May 7th, 2010 06:39 AM

Sorry, but I have to weigh in with a dissenting opinion of Oscar's. The staff at the Desert Pearl really seems to push this place, but we only got huge piles of disappointing food. The European tourists at the table next to us were absolutely bug-eyed at the portion sizes. Even the salads resemble mountains. We would have taken the leftovers back to the room, but the food was so bad that it wasn't worth the effort.

We liked Zion Pizza and Noodle, Majestic View Steakhouse and the sandwich shop at the entrance to the park -- Sol Foods, I think?

Dayle May 7th, 2010 08:55 AM

I tried Oscar's last time I was down and didn't care for it either. I always love Zion Pizza and Noodle and make a point to eat there every trip. Very yummy.

JLCK May 29th, 2010 03:35 PM

At Zion now. Just FYI - due to heavy snow fall this past winter the water is too high and the narrows is still closed.

Both my 9 and 11 year olds made it to the top of Angels landing. If you take your time, reaching the summit should be no problem and the view really is fantastic. We caught the 8 O'clock shuttle and the trip up was no problem but on the way down, the crowds made these skinny ledges a complete cluster. I recommend getting on the trail as early as possible

smetz May 30th, 2010 03:11 AM

JLCK - Wow, thanks for the update. We will be there three weeks from now, and it will be interesting to see if the Narrows is still closed.


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