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-   -   Help with SE Utah & NE Ariz. nat'l parks itinerary (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/help-with-se-utah-and-ne-ariz-natl-parks-itinerary-829929/)

polly229 Mar 8th, 2010 09:49 AM

Help with SE Utah & NE Ariz. nat'l parks itinerary
 
My husband and I plan to leave Vegas in mid-April for a 14-15 day driving trip to national parks and monuments in southeast UT and northeast AZ (and Mesa Verde) that we have not previously visited. (Zion, Bryce and Grand Canyon already done one or more times.) I have crammed a lot of stuff into the time but think it can be done - barring weather problems - if the via Michelin estimates are pretty close. We don’t plan to do any hiking per se, just walks of 2 mi. or less to see various things; won’t have 4-wheel drive, so no off road or high clearance roads. This trip could be a “practice trip” for a future return to the places we like best or, considering our ages and the length of our to-do list, it could be the only visit to most or all of them. We’d appreciate any advice about our itinerary (especially after day 6), weather, roads, and suggestions for hotels and restaurants.

Day 1 - Vegas to Bryce (to be in position to drive Rt. 12 to Torrey)
Day 2 - Bryce to Torrey via Rt. 12
Day 3 - Capital Reef
Day 4 - Torrey to Moab
Day 5 - Arches
Day 6 - Canyonlands

Now comes the problem. Had I been able to get rooms at Far View in Mesa Verde on days 7 & 8, we’d go there next. But since the first room I could get is Day 9, the route had to be shifted, which involves some back-tracking.

Day 7 - Moab to Monument Valley (The View or Gouldings) or Kayenta via Natural Bridges Monument
Day 8 - either Monument Valley all day or Navajo Nat’l Monument AM, Valley PM
Day 9 - Monument Valley AM, drive to Mesa Verde PM (Far View)
Day 10 - Mesa Verde (Far View)
Day 11 - to Chinle (Canyon of the Ancients AM?)
Day 12 - Canyon de Chelly

Now we have 2-3 days to get back to Vegas. Best roads are probably the south route through Flagstaff, but we have driven the route numerous times from Grand Canyon/Sedona, seen Wupatki, Walnut Canyon, etc.; also I assume the bypass road isn’t done yet, so we could have another hour or so of hell crossing the Damned Dam. Therefore it has crossed my mind to head north from Tuba City on 89 and get back to Vegas via Page/Kanab/Fredonia, then St. George. We could go straight through in 2 days without killing ourselves or take 3 days and see something along the way. What? Vermillion Cliffs, Coral Pink Sand Dunes, Pipe Spring? Any suggestions?

Myer Mar 8th, 2010 05:16 PM

I'm not sure what the difference is between a hike and a 2 mile walk.

Between Torrey and Moab I would take a slight detour to Gobblin Valley State Park for an hour or two.

polly229 Mar 8th, 2010 09:22 PM

Good idea about Goblin Valley. After checking distance on via Michelin, which routes you back west to 72, that kinda got lost; but there should be time to go east on 24 and stop there for an hour or two. I've added that to day 4.

I think of a "walk" as a shorter trek with an objective at the end - a waterfall or natural bridge or ruin that's 3/4 mile from a parking lot. A "hike" would be a longer walk that might take half a day or more, could involve blisters (and bears ;-) ) and might be uphill both ways.

emalloy Mar 9th, 2010 03:04 AM

Take the number for Mesa Verde lodging for days 7&8 and keep trying for a cancellation, since people make reservations so far ahead and then find they can't make it when the time nears. Going there from Canyonlands would make for lots less driving.

If you haven't been to some of the places in New Mexico like Bandelier and/or Chaco Canyon, you might find them interesting additions to your trip.

Myer Mar 9th, 2010 03:58 AM

While you might consider it a hike rather than a walk (2.5 miles each way), Lower Calf Creek Falls qualifies as a walk for you as there's a beautiful waterfall at the end.

Not difficult although quite a bit on a sandy trail.

Located just west of Boulder, UT between Bryce Canyon and Torrey. Figure on less than an hour each way and half hour there. Should be well under half a day and worth the sight.

Right next to Canyonlands is Dead Horse Point State Park. I thought it had more than Canyonlands. Ine spot right behing the welcome station had great views down and several spots looking down on the Colorado River turning.

My own personal opinion. You might do better just passing right thru Capitol Reef NP and adding a day in Arches.

spirobulldog Mar 9th, 2010 10:38 AM

I agree with Myer. I would stop in Capitol Reef for only a brief visit- the Gifford House and picnic area. Allow maybe 2 hours. Better sights include- Calf Creek Falls, Goblin Valley/Little Wildhorse Canyon(about 10 minutes from the goblins), or more time in Arches. Monument Valley doesn't rank that high on my list of favorites either. Its definately worth seeing, but just not my favorite.

Western- I don't guess your trying to sell your services, but there is no advertising allowed on Fodors.

Myer Mar 9th, 2010 01:53 PM

I've misplaced the complaint address for advertising but if somebody has it please inform them about WAImages or just post it here and I'll do it.

ElendilPickle Mar 9th, 2010 02:30 PM

Myer, just click that gray triangle on the right and a pop-up box will come up. I just filed a complaint.

Lee Ann

Myer Mar 9th, 2010 03:56 PM

Thanks Lee Ann. We have no room here for that stuff.

spirobulldog Mar 10th, 2010 10:51 AM

Myer,

I have a question. I haven't been to Bryce, Lake Powell area. I plan on doing these end of May 2011. How long do you think I should allow for the Calf Creek Falls hike/swim? We normally hike pretty fast and this one appears to be fairly easy. Do you think we would want to spend an hour swimming there? I have a feeling the water will be cold, but I know I will want to get in it for a few minutes. I was thinking 4-5 hours total time. It would be best to hike in the morning, but if we swam would probably be better in the afternoon. Any thoughts? Of course, if my parents hike with us, then that would probably add some time.

My parents travel a lot, but have never been to any of Southern Utah. They are going to be there for a couple of weeks and we are going to meet them for 4-5 days. They are both late 60's and they can normally go for 2-3 miles hiking, but the 5 mile trip I think might be a little long for them. They have no problem getting up at 5AM and going until midnight for several days straight. They might attempt the hike or they might just find a scenic drive for a few hours while we hike. I will have a complete Iten. in a few days(want to get my lodging in Bryce early).

Polly, Didn't mean to hijack your post, but my question is pertaining to your trip as well. Thanks!!!

Polly, Don't miss Goosenecks, Moki Dugway, and Muley Point. All of these are just north of Monument Valley. It snowed on us the last of May at Mesa Verde(enough to cover the ground), so be prepared. If you haven't been to Durango, we liked it. It isn't far from Mesa Verde. You might also try and get a walk in for The Wave hike near Kanab/Page. That would be awesome. I hope to hike it next year.

Myer Mar 10th, 2010 01:29 PM

spiro,
The Loawer Calf Creek hike is about 2.5 miles each way and it's not difficult. Mostly pretty level. The hard part is that it's pretty sandy so you have to lift your feet.

There isn't much shade on the way but as soon as you get to the falls it's in a wooded area. I suspect there isn't much sun in the Falls area.

I figure it's a bit less than an hour each way. I was there at 64 and had absolutely no trouble. If your parents are in good shape then no problem. I do extra training before a trip so I can go all day.

I was wearing my hiking shorts and I walked into the water. It gets deeper slowly but I sort of slipped into a deeper spot a got a bit wet. It dried.

We stayed at least half an hour as it's really a sight to see. I was there in mid-May. Going a bit later I would think would warm the water. Other than just walking in a bit I didn't really go in the water. There were others there who went in and swam. It's wasn't really cold.

If you're in Bryce I would suggest Willis Creek. About 20 miles east of Bryce is Canonville. You can stop at the visitors center and get driving instructions.

The hardest part is a 10 mile drive on a dirt road that's a bit hilly and curvy. There isn't even a sign at the parking lot. They told us that if we drive over a little creek we just past it (yes that's what happened). They said there's a register box which we saw.

Within a couple of minutes of leaving the car we were in a nice slot canyon with a little creek meandering thru. There are also two nice and very small (8-10 feet) waterfalls. The canyon start and stops several times. We went thru about 3-4 of them and then decoded to go back and over to Bryce (I had been there the year before but my friend hadn't been there)

It was cloudy and cool. I really would have like to see it with the sun shining. Maybe would have had a bit of the Antelope Canyon effect. Maybe?

I noticed on the way back the creek was a couple of inches higher. It must have been raining near one of the feeders.

Few people go to Willis Creek but I thought it was great.

I would allow about 3 hours for Lower Calf Creek Falls if you want to swim and maybe even picnic there.

For Willis Creek about 2 hours from leaving the visitors center.

I didn't really visit the Lake Powell area. On the way from Bryce/Zion to GC I stopped around Page and went to "The Best Dam View", Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon. These should be seen when the sun is high in the sky.

The first is an easy walk down some rock stairs. The second is a pretty level 3/4 mile hike with no shade. At the end there's no screen, fence or barrier. Just straight down. Antelope Canyon is a 15 minute bumpy ride from the parking lot. The walk thru the Canyon is very easy and flat. Basically no elevation change.

That's about it.

spirobulldog Mar 10th, 2010 03:18 PM

Thanks, looks like calf creek might not take as much time as I thought. Willis creek sounds like a mini version of The Narrows. Sounds like something I might do. I don't really have much planned at Bryce other than Nav/Queens loop. Probably will do the ranger night sky program. I have always wanted to see Rainbow Bridge. Not sure if it is worth a half day, but I will most likely try to see it. If I get lucky enough to get a permit for "the wave", probably will try that as well. That would pretty much cross everything off my Utah list. I still want to see Havasu Falls and do a rim to rim hike in the Grand Canyon.

Myer Mar 11th, 2010 02:26 AM

I think the Narrows is a much larger slot canyon. Also, in the Narriws you will hike at waist level.

Willis Creek was a creek. On the way out it was about an inch high and 2 feet wide. We kept jumping across the creek as we walked.

On the way back it was 2-3 inches high and a bit wider. That's how a slot canyon is formed over millions of years.

Dayle Mar 11th, 2010 10:27 AM

Spiro,

The biggest factor with hiking Lower Calf Creek Falls is the parking! It's a very popular, but small State Rec campground that is always full. Additional parking for hikers is very limited. If you want to do this hike in May you better BE there to get a parking spot no later than 8am.

It's a lovely waterfall and a bit of a hot hike, but worth it.

Myer Mar 11th, 2010 11:23 AM

Dayle is right. We got there later than 8AM and there were spaces but not a lot.

Also, make sure you pay the parking machine and put the receipt on the windshield. While I didn't see anybody checking I've heard they do.

polly229 Mar 12th, 2010 06:17 AM

Thanks for all the info. Came to Miami Wed. on husband's business trip, now going to play in Everglades, Key Biscayne, etc., for a few days. Will make notes when I get home.

After more reseach, I'm now wondering if we care so much about Monument Valley. Had been trying for Far View cancellations online for the 20th with no luck but then stumbled on the fact that "mid-April" in the guidebooks means the 22nd this year, so that would explain why I couldn't get anything earlier. Now thinking instead of Monument Vally maybe we'll spend an extra day at Arches as someone suggested, maybe spend a night in Blanding so we'll be closer to Natural Bridge and maybe add Hovenweep to the agenda. Any suggestions for motels in Blanding or nearby? Other things to do around there like whatever Cedars State Park (my books and notes are packed)?

Myer Mar 12th, 2010 09:19 AM

Too bad about the weather today here in Miami.

Must be because of the golf tournament.

emalloy Mar 12th, 2010 11:47 AM

If Mesa Verde is still in your plans, Hovenweep would make a nice place for a quick stop on the way from Moab. You can continue on to Cortez from there and then on to MV. Part of the road may be gravel but is well maintained and fine for a regular car.

labonbon Mar 14th, 2010 10:32 AM

How exciting! I did a similar trip last year, but 'counterclockwise' from your trip. Suggestion-less time for Monument Valley, perhaps another day for Canyonlands. For me, the scenic drives into the different sections of Canyonlands were well worth the extra time. Also, I stayed in Monticello (Blanding was full), to see Hovenweep and Natural Bridges. Perhaps if you do the northern route you could add Zion? Though I'm sure you've been there if you've done the Grand Canyon area. Pipe Spring is really a pretty quick stop, so no extra time or overnight is needed.

rmlsml Mar 14th, 2010 02:00 PM

I would say Antelope Canyon outside of Page AZ is a must see. You have to take a tour to get in. It is pretty amazing and everyone will just ooh and ahh over the pictures. It is a slot canyon. The drive through the Navajo and Hopi reservations was long, but were were amazed with how vast the land was. The Hopi have a museum with a resteraunt. We liked the food there and found it better than the food on the Navajo reservation.


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