Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Help w/20th Anniv. itinerary for Savannah/Charleston

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Help w/20th Anniv. itinerary for Savannah/Charleston

We are a Dallas suburbs couple, age 40, celebrating our 20th anniversary with first time visit to Savannah/Charleston. As native Texans with deep south ancestry many generations back, we love southern culture. Looking for a romantic trip with relaxing yet steady pace with ample time for strolling, shopping, sightseeing. PLEASE HELP WITH ITINERARY/ LOGISTICS FOR BOTH CITIES. We’ll be 2 nights at Foley House (courtyard room) in Savannah, 3 nights in Charleston – 2 at Governor’s Inn (St. Michaels Rm) , and last night at Two Meeting St. (Granite Room). Fly in to Savannah on Friday Sept. 6 at 4:00 pm, depart Savannah Wed. Sept. 11 at 4:40 pm. Don’t plan to rent a car until we leave Savannah to drive to Charleston. As for eating out, are reservations really necessary at this time of year? We are interested in seafood, fried okra, the best southern bbq, and can’t go wrong places in either city. We prefer casual but tasteful over formal and stuffy. Although we want the food to be good, we are more interested in atmosphere than we are particular about the food. In Savannah, we are most interested in the following: Visitors Center & Sav History Museum Carriage Ride Trolley or Bus Tour Our own walking tour? Interesting Architecture & pretty places Shopping/Browsing Historical Home Tours (Owens-Thomas & ???. Which ones are best?) Walking Tours (which one?) Possibly Ghost Talk, Ghost Walk Tour or Trolley Haunted History Tour, and maybe one on “The Book” or do the carriage, trolly, or bus tour point out points of interest regarding this? I saw the movie and am somewhat interested in what is where, but not enough to spend extensive time on it. Beaches- We would like to see if it’s good, but don’t need to spend lots of time there on this trip. Dining - I understand Mrs. Wilkes’ is closed on the week-end. Other Savannah dining recommended that may appeal to us is Lady & Sons & Sapphire Grill. We would like to skim the surface of Hilton Head and Beaufort to see if we would like include in a return trip if it doesn’t take up too much time on the way to Charleston. In Charleston, we are interested in the following: Dining – Same criteria as for Savannah. Possibly, Peninsula Grill, Ansons, Carolinas, Hymans, Hominy Grill, Wild Wing Café, Kaminsky’s for dessert, and ???? Beaches – same as above Historical Area/Downtown Visitors Center Carriage Ride Ghost Tour at night Waterfront Park just sitting on waterfront swings watching and resting Strolling/Shopping/Browsing Plantations Tours – Drayton, Middleton, and possibly Magnolia (should we?) Historical Home Tours – Edmonston Alston, Nathaniel Hawthorne, and any others? Walking Tours – Architecture tour (starts in front of our inn and is from 2-4 daily. Historical Chas City Walk Tour, Chas Walk Civil War? We are open to changes. Your input is very much appreciated!!!!!!

Don't miss plantations outside Charleston; I'm not a fan of the city itself. Now for sweet Savannah... Southern food doesn't get better than the buffet at http://www.ladyandsons.com/ which often has a line going down the sidewalk. If you catch them near closing time the line may vanish, or you can reserve. Last I mentioned it here, someone said you should eat there every day, and I kicked myself for not thinking of doing that. The only strong suggestions out of center would be Civil War Fort Pulaski and a cemetery (Bonaventure?). In town an orientation tour or two is fine, but don't get all goal directed for particular stops, which aren't too, too special. The top, top priority should be visiting ALL the park-like squares on foot. Use only the streets that intercept the parks to get from one to another. The streets inbetween can be dull/shabby but the parks and park-connecting streets are dripping with gracious atmosphere. As you pass the odd museum and house open for touring, you can stop in if the spirit moves you (but won't miss too much if you pass them by). The riverfront and beach aren't terribly special either, at least compared to those transcendent squares and food...

For a wonderful lunch or dinner, try California Dreaming. It looks like a castle and is right on the water and has great food. Arrive early, though, because they don't take reservations and can have long lines. This is our favorite restaurant when we come to Charleston. Also, start your trip with a visit to the new visitors center. It is really nice and full of great ideas. They can also book tours, etc. for you. Congrats on your anniversary.

Check respective city web sites for special events/festivals on those dates. Only one useful day in Savannah?! I was gonna suggest stopping in the outskirts on the way out of town, but better to savor in town before going to Charleston late as possible.

Thanks so much to everyone for all of your suggestions with Sav/Chas. I will certainly be able to tweak my plans. Leaving soon but more suggestions welcome!

I assume you meant Nathaniel Russell house in Charleston. With three days in Charleston, I wouldn't visit three plantations. Scatch either Middleton or Magnolia. My favorite is Middleton because it combines Magnolia's gardens with a nice restaurant and less touristy environment, but Magnolia does have more activities (swamp walk, boat and tram rides). You made great choices on houses to visit; I have been to almost all the ones there. I would add the Charleston Museum, which is just across the street from the visitor center. Allow at least 1-2 hours for that. Waterfront Park is very relaxing in the morning and jumping with activity on weekend afternoons - love it either way. You might have a hard time spending much time on the beaches with three days, but it is an easy drive to at least drive out to Sullivan's Island and Isle of Palms. You may be interested in my two varied travelogues (one 4 days without child and the other 8 days with child) at www.oneeyed.homestead.com.

Hi- I'm a Charleston native and will throw in my two cents. I don't recommend Hymans. I don't know a single local that has ever eaten there. If you're looking for good seafood I'd travel into Mt. Pleasant or head out to the beaches. The best ambiance and seafood around is at The Boathouse the Isle of Palms (they are also located downtown but for the full experience you should head to the beach). Reservations are a MUST and head over early for drinks at the outdoor bar overlooking the waterway and ocean. You will not regret it!

Wow...you've done you're homework. A few comments on restuarnats: McCradys is for my money the best food I've found so far, it's nice, but not stuffy and they have a new wine bar that has a very romantic feel. Hank's is a livelier, more casual but upscale spot. I also like Il Cortile del Re for very authentic Italian. (don't go if you're looking for spaghetti & meatballs and gooey cheese) Fish, Upstream, Charleston Grill are other nice choices. I like Garibaldi's as well, another very romantic spot. Poogan's Porch for brunch. With apologies to another poster, California Dreaming is a chain, with Applebee's-type food...which may not be that bad, but just warning you. Also, I'll disrespect Magnolia's which gets recommended alot, but I have never been impressed and even it's fans are saying it has gone downhill. Trying to take my mind off food for a few minutes...I love the carraige rides (touristy be damned), Drayton Hall is nicer than the other plantations, especially since you are not at azalea/dogwood time of year.(Drayton Hall is the only one you mention that still has the original house - the others were burned) I love the aquarium if you have time. As to beaches, there are Folly and Isle of Palms. Each has it's charms. And now back to food. You mentioned Wild Wings which is a bar that serves wings. might as well be at Hooters. Kaminsky is a really cool-looking place but the desserts disappoint. Perhaps have an after dinner liquor there instead. There is a Haagen Daaz nearby fortunately! Congratulations on your 20th

Thanks again for all the further comments. All are really helpful.I'll do a short trip report upon return. Just a few pre-travel notes that may be useful for someone on my experience so far: In spite of the glowing reputation I've gathered on Foley House Inn of Savannah, I had a less than pleasant experience when they released the hold on my room after only 5 hrs in the wee hrs of the AM, and gave it to someone else - by orders of the innkeeper herself. Later, her words were polite but her tone was otherwise. Meeting St. Inn caused confusion on 2 occassions by piggy-backing on 2 Meeting St.s name. By contrast, the lady at the Governor's House Inn was about the nicest, most hospitable person I've ever spoke to in my life! She represented Southern charm in a way that others only strive to. I'm sure I'll have many good experiences to share from Foley House that will overshadow my first less than favorable impression. Let's hope so! As far as that OTHER Meeting St. Inn, be careful you are talking to the RIGHT one - even if asking the 800# operator for the number!

To continue: We even did a ghost walk tour one night. It was fun for something different. A carraige ride would've been special, but we hated to spend the $ for something we had already seen on foot, by car, and by tour bus. We saw where they were filming the movie "Cold Mountain" w/ Jude Law, Nicole Kiddman, Renee Zellwiger. Interesting. We encountered some of the actors in between filmings. We enjoyed seeing the College of Charleston campus - very pretty. Driving and parking was somewhat difficult at times, but manageable with little crowds, but I would think again in high season. Wouldn't do it as there are other easy ways to get around. Also,Hymans (fun-enjoyed - good food), Poogans Porch (charming & good food. Seated on patio), top of Vendue Inn (just ok), S.N.O.B was uneventful & food not so good. Maybe because it was lunch, not night. Peninsula Grill -sat in beautiful courtyard, food VERY good. The chef even decorated our dessert plate w/ Happy Anniv - a thoughtful touch. Didn't get to do near enough shopping but plenty there. Did a quick run by self-guided driving tour thru Beaufort on the way to airport. Better to take narrated tour but time didn't permit. It is a worthwile, picturesque town I wish we had more time for. Oh, we regret not covering Civil War and Revolution sites even such a tour. Next time. Sorry such a long report. I had hoped to be short! Thanks for all the advice. Chas/Sav both are worthwile destinatons and a must do for any Southerner. It's fun to see where things come from that you were taught in your culture. Although I was born/raised in TX, my roots are AL,SC,TN,& GA. You'll further understand your mother's teachings! Ha!