Grand Teton and Yellowstone June 2010 - Chilly and Gorgeous!
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Delightful report! Yellowstone is always such a treat to visit. There's so much beauty around every corner.
How were the pools at Mammoth Hot Springs? Last time we visited Yellowstone (2 years ago), they were basically all dried up, not much color. It changes when it rains, so I hope you got to see some of the pools' golden beauty.
How were the pools at Mammoth Hot Springs? Last time we visited Yellowstone (2 years ago), they were basically all dried up, not much color. It changes when it rains, so I hope you got to see some of the pools' golden beauty.
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I'm really enjoying your report -- love the details and the way you write. And seeing the area through your eyes.
We've only stayed in the Old Faithful area twice (it's different when you are visiting for the day -- you just find the public parking area and walk). It isn't easy finding your way driving around that area. In fact we found the turnoff to OFI (going away from the Lodge area) by turning at a sign that showed gas available -- no reference to it also being the place to turn for OFI.
We've only stayed in the Old Faithful area twice (it's different when you are visiting for the day -- you just find the public parking area and walk). It isn't easy finding your way driving around that area. In fact we found the turnoff to OFI (going away from the Lodge area) by turning at a sign that showed gas available -- no reference to it also being the place to turn for OFI.
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Swisshiker, the pools at Mammoth Hot Springs were very striking. The park got a good amount of rain and snow, so everything was full and gushing.
Day 5 - Mammoth to Canyon
We had breakfast at the Terrace Grill, then left our little Dharmaville-esque cabin. There are pikas (like a ground squirrel but cuter) all over the place. People must feed them, because they're pretty much fearless.
The Pickle men went back up to the terraces so DS Pickle could take some video while I checked out and waited in a long, slow line for a latte. I hope they have more than one person working the espresso cart when the park gets busier!
At this point, we noticed an unusual object in the sky - the sun! Several days in a row with no sunshine is kind of weird for us New Mexicans...
Today was waterfall day. We stopped at lovely Undine Falls for a few minutes. As a Tolkien fan, I sort of regret not stopping at Wraith Falls, but I think it was raining hard enough that we decided to skip it. We drove on past the Roosevelt area to Tower Falls. There was no power in the visitor center, which slowed down anyone who wanted to make a purchase. Tower Falls was really gushing - quite the sight!
From Tower Falls, the road climbs up and up past Mt. Washburn and over Dunraven Pass. There is still a good deal of snow in this section of Yellowstone; with the snow, clouds, and all the shades of black and gray, I still managed my Lord of the Rings moment without the Wraith Falls stop. DS Pickle humming the Rohan theme probably helped a little.
Suddenly we saw a couple dozen cars pulled off along the road and people jogging along with their mega-telephoto lenses. I rolled down the window to ask what everyone was looking for. A mama grizzly and her two cubs had just crossed the road, but they were pretty much out of sight by the time we spotted them. We just got a glimpse of the cubs and mama's sizable backside. It was still pretty cool.
From here, we headed back into the super caldera and down to Canyon Village. This area had opened for the season the day before, and their computers and phones were down. They asked us to come back later. We checked out the restaurant, cafeteria, and deli as we walked over to the visitor center.
After getting some suggestions on hikes and a good way to visit the canyon rims, we stopped at the general store to grab sandwiches for lunch.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is awe-inspiring. We drove down the South Rim to Artists' Point, then back up to the main road, stopping at the various scenic views. We elected not to take the Uncle Tom's Point trail; the climb back up the stairs didn't sound all that appealing.
Next was a stop at the Brink of the Upper Falls trail. This takes you really close to...well, the brink of the Upper Falls. "Hmmm, this isn't too bad. Maybe I'm getting over my fear of heights," I thought as I looked over the edge of the viewing platform - only to jump several inches as Mr. Pickle touched my shoulder.
Maybe not...
We left the brink and headed down the South Rim. By now it was cloudy again with cold, driving drizzle, sleet, and rain, so we didn't spend a lot of time out of the car - just enough to jog to the overlook, take some pictures, and jump back in.
By then, it was close to 4:00, and we went back to the office to see if we could check in. The computers were still down, so the clerk took our names to speed the process when they were ready.
We considered driving up the road a bit toward Norris and doing a hike, but it started to rain harder as we went back to the car, so we decided the Canyon Lounge was a much more appealing option. We grabbed books and knitting, found some very comfortable seats near a window, and the Pickle adults enjoyed some Moose Drool, a delicious dark brown ale from Montana.
Eventually we joined the line in the office to get our room keys, and found the Pioneer cabins. Unfortunately, the clerk gave us the wrong key, so it was back to the office. I think we always ended up with whatever cabin was the farthest from the office! Oh, well, we missed out on traffic noise...
Finally, we got the right key and entered the room. The cabins look really plain from the outside, but the room was nice and spacious with its own bathroom. These cabins have adjoining rooms, and would be a good choice for a family on a budget. The walls are very thin, though.
Our cabin overlooked a pond, and had a huge pile of snow near the door. DS Pickle promptly made himself a snow fort while Mr. Pickle tried to get the heater to work. The pilot light was on, but no heat was coming out, and with night temperatures below freezing, we knew we would want some warmth. We cranked the thermostat up to 90 and finally felt a little warmth, but it took close to 20 minutes. Mr. Pickle headed up to the office again to schedule a maintenance call.
By the time we were ready for dinner, Mr. Pickle had more or less gotten the heater to work, so we cancelled the maintenance request and walked to the dining room.
DS Pickle had a burger and we enjoyed the soup and salad bar. Unfortunately - and it may have been because they had just opened for the season - our server was not very good. We waited close to 20 minutes for him to take our orders (the busboy, thankfully, kept our water glasses filled) even though he didn't seem to be working very many tables. Then he would disappear for several minutes while everyone in his section looked for him. Our food was fine, but we had to make repeated requests for a number of items, and then he double-charged us for our meal. We noticed most everyone else in our area had similar problems to ours.
The manager was great, though. He straightened out our bill very quickly and we overheard him dealing with the other people's problems in the same manner.
Day 5 - Mammoth to Canyon
We had breakfast at the Terrace Grill, then left our little Dharmaville-esque cabin. There are pikas (like a ground squirrel but cuter) all over the place. People must feed them, because they're pretty much fearless.
The Pickle men went back up to the terraces so DS Pickle could take some video while I checked out and waited in a long, slow line for a latte. I hope they have more than one person working the espresso cart when the park gets busier!
At this point, we noticed an unusual object in the sky - the sun! Several days in a row with no sunshine is kind of weird for us New Mexicans...
Today was waterfall day. We stopped at lovely Undine Falls for a few minutes. As a Tolkien fan, I sort of regret not stopping at Wraith Falls, but I think it was raining hard enough that we decided to skip it. We drove on past the Roosevelt area to Tower Falls. There was no power in the visitor center, which slowed down anyone who wanted to make a purchase. Tower Falls was really gushing - quite the sight!
From Tower Falls, the road climbs up and up past Mt. Washburn and over Dunraven Pass. There is still a good deal of snow in this section of Yellowstone; with the snow, clouds, and all the shades of black and gray, I still managed my Lord of the Rings moment without the Wraith Falls stop. DS Pickle humming the Rohan theme probably helped a little.

Suddenly we saw a couple dozen cars pulled off along the road and people jogging along with their mega-telephoto lenses. I rolled down the window to ask what everyone was looking for. A mama grizzly and her two cubs had just crossed the road, but they were pretty much out of sight by the time we spotted them. We just got a glimpse of the cubs and mama's sizable backside. It was still pretty cool.
From here, we headed back into the super caldera and down to Canyon Village. This area had opened for the season the day before, and their computers and phones were down. They asked us to come back later. We checked out the restaurant, cafeteria, and deli as we walked over to the visitor center.
After getting some suggestions on hikes and a good way to visit the canyon rims, we stopped at the general store to grab sandwiches for lunch.
The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is awe-inspiring. We drove down the South Rim to Artists' Point, then back up to the main road, stopping at the various scenic views. We elected not to take the Uncle Tom's Point trail; the climb back up the stairs didn't sound all that appealing.
Next was a stop at the Brink of the Upper Falls trail. This takes you really close to...well, the brink of the Upper Falls. "Hmmm, this isn't too bad. Maybe I'm getting over my fear of heights," I thought as I looked over the edge of the viewing platform - only to jump several inches as Mr. Pickle touched my shoulder.


We left the brink and headed down the South Rim. By now it was cloudy again with cold, driving drizzle, sleet, and rain, so we didn't spend a lot of time out of the car - just enough to jog to the overlook, take some pictures, and jump back in.
By then, it was close to 4:00, and we went back to the office to see if we could check in. The computers were still down, so the clerk took our names to speed the process when they were ready.
We considered driving up the road a bit toward Norris and doing a hike, but it started to rain harder as we went back to the car, so we decided the Canyon Lounge was a much more appealing option. We grabbed books and knitting, found some very comfortable seats near a window, and the Pickle adults enjoyed some Moose Drool, a delicious dark brown ale from Montana.
Eventually we joined the line in the office to get our room keys, and found the Pioneer cabins. Unfortunately, the clerk gave us the wrong key, so it was back to the office. I think we always ended up with whatever cabin was the farthest from the office! Oh, well, we missed out on traffic noise...
Finally, we got the right key and entered the room. The cabins look really plain from the outside, but the room was nice and spacious with its own bathroom. These cabins have adjoining rooms, and would be a good choice for a family on a budget. The walls are very thin, though.
Our cabin overlooked a pond, and had a huge pile of snow near the door. DS Pickle promptly made himself a snow fort while Mr. Pickle tried to get the heater to work. The pilot light was on, but no heat was coming out, and with night temperatures below freezing, we knew we would want some warmth. We cranked the thermostat up to 90 and finally felt a little warmth, but it took close to 20 minutes. Mr. Pickle headed up to the office again to schedule a maintenance call.
By the time we were ready for dinner, Mr. Pickle had more or less gotten the heater to work, so we cancelled the maintenance request and walked to the dining room.
DS Pickle had a burger and we enjoyed the soup and salad bar. Unfortunately - and it may have been because they had just opened for the season - our server was not very good. We waited close to 20 minutes for him to take our orders (the busboy, thankfully, kept our water glasses filled) even though he didn't seem to be working very many tables. Then he would disappear for several minutes while everyone in his section looked for him. Our food was fine, but we had to make repeated requests for a number of items, and then he double-charged us for our meal. We noticed most everyone else in our area had similar problems to ours.
The manager was great, though. He straightened out our bill very quickly and we overheard him dealing with the other people's problems in the same manner.
#25
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Looking for advice for my first trip to Yellowstone and Grand Teton. Our plan is to head south from Billings and drive the Bear Tooth Highway. I have a 24 foot RV and wonder if it will be OK. We have reservations at Grizzly RV park in West Yellowstone, then the Snake River KOA in Jackson. Going end of July. Any tips? Thanks
#26
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Mr. Pickle, thanks so much for sharing your wonderful experience with us all. Sounds like a great rip for you and your family.
I've had the chance to go twice and it was amazing. Such beauty and to see all the animals was unforgettable!
I've had the chance to go twice and it was amazing. Such beauty and to see all the animals was unforgettable!
#27
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Tonytt, I've never traveled in an RV - well, not since I was an adult, anyway. You'll get a lot of good responses if you start a separate thread to ask your question.
Thanks, luxliving! I still have a couple more days' worth of report to write. Better grab some caffeine and get back to it!
Lee Ann
Thanks, luxliving! I still have a couple more days' worth of report to write. Better grab some caffeine and get back to it!
Lee Ann
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Day 6 - Canyon to Thermopolis
Another cool, drizzly day. We had planned to got to a church service at the Canyon campground amphitheater, but it was too wet. Canyon's deli isn't open for breakfast, so we ate in the cafeteria instead. The cafeteria has different sized plates, and you are charged depending on what size you choose. DS Pickle got a medium plate - at 6 feet tall with no signs of stopping anytime soon, he's a growing boy - and the Pickle adults stuck with the small plates, which were plenty large enough for us.
We made a quick stop at the general store for coffee and a bit of shopping. Canyon's store was the only we saw with a lot of sale items, like the pretty coffee mug which now graces my kitchen.
This was our last day in Yellowstone. We headed south toward Yellowstone Lake through Hayden Valley. This is supposed to be a good place to see wildlife, but we only spotted a few elk and bison. I suspect you see more at dawn and dusk.
We stopped at Le Hardy Rapids, but didn't see any trout. It was still pretty.
The Mud Volcano area is pretty interesting - boiling mud pots, churning mineral pools, the aforementioned mud volcano, which blew itself out a number of years ago but still produces, and the Dragon's Mouth, a cave which belches forth steam and hot water. It sounds a bit like Darth Vader.
As we walked back to our car, we passed a ranger. Noticing I had my umbrella, he said, "Ah, springtime in Yellowstone." I replied, "It's 100 degrees at home. I'll take this any day!"
When we stopped at the Lake Hotel, we kind of wished we had stayed in the lake cabins the night before, rather than stopping at Canyon. The setting is gorgeous, next to the Lake Hotel and a really short walk to the shoreline. These cabins really reminded me of Dharmaville, down to the shade of yellow paint covering the buildings.
We had fun taking pictures next to the old Yellowstone tour bus parked outside and looking around the hotel a bit, then went over Fishing Bridge for a brief stop at their visitor center, which features the wildlife found around the lake.
Off we went over Sylvan Pass, where there was still some serious snow, lots of small waterfalls cascading down the slopes, and the occasional rock to navigate around, then out of the park. We passed quite a few guest ranches as we headed toward Cody. IMO they are a little too far out of the park to be a good base for Yellowstone, but they might be fun as part of a longer trip. We saw a couple more mountain goats as we drove.
Cody has some great Western museums - my parents always loved visiting them - but we didn't check them out. Maybe some other time. We thought we would stop for the evening in Douglas or Casper, so made a stop at McDonald's to satisfy Mr. Pickle's thrift-loving soul and to use their free wi-fi.
The drive south from Cody through Wind River Canyon is pretty spectacular. There are a lot of geological markers to help you know what kind of stuff you're passing.
We arrived in Thermopolis around 5:00. At this point we were tired of sitting and driving and decided to stop for the night. We spent the night at the Paintbrush Inn www.paintbrushinn.com - $64 for a fairly spacious room with a kitchenette.
Blair's Supermarket is across the street; we stocked up on breakfast supplies and snacks, had dinner at Subway, and decided to check out the water parks in Hot Springs State Park, which we had passed as we entered town. At this point it was getting a little late, so we decided to wait on the water parks until the next morning. We drove around the park a bit, rented "Sherlock Holmes" from the combination movie theater and DVD rental store, and called it a night.
The staff at the Paintbrush Inn were extremely helpful and friendly. They loaned us towels for the water park, swapped the room's DVD player out when ours didn't work, and let us check out late the next day. We were really pleased with our stay.
Still a little more to come...
Lee Ann
Another cool, drizzly day. We had planned to got to a church service at the Canyon campground amphitheater, but it was too wet. Canyon's deli isn't open for breakfast, so we ate in the cafeteria instead. The cafeteria has different sized plates, and you are charged depending on what size you choose. DS Pickle got a medium plate - at 6 feet tall with no signs of stopping anytime soon, he's a growing boy - and the Pickle adults stuck with the small plates, which were plenty large enough for us.
We made a quick stop at the general store for coffee and a bit of shopping. Canyon's store was the only we saw with a lot of sale items, like the pretty coffee mug which now graces my kitchen.
This was our last day in Yellowstone. We headed south toward Yellowstone Lake through Hayden Valley. This is supposed to be a good place to see wildlife, but we only spotted a few elk and bison. I suspect you see more at dawn and dusk.
We stopped at Le Hardy Rapids, but didn't see any trout. It was still pretty.
The Mud Volcano area is pretty interesting - boiling mud pots, churning mineral pools, the aforementioned mud volcano, which blew itself out a number of years ago but still produces, and the Dragon's Mouth, a cave which belches forth steam and hot water. It sounds a bit like Darth Vader.
As we walked back to our car, we passed a ranger. Noticing I had my umbrella, he said, "Ah, springtime in Yellowstone." I replied, "It's 100 degrees at home. I'll take this any day!"
When we stopped at the Lake Hotel, we kind of wished we had stayed in the lake cabins the night before, rather than stopping at Canyon. The setting is gorgeous, next to the Lake Hotel and a really short walk to the shoreline. These cabins really reminded me of Dharmaville, down to the shade of yellow paint covering the buildings.
We had fun taking pictures next to the old Yellowstone tour bus parked outside and looking around the hotel a bit, then went over Fishing Bridge for a brief stop at their visitor center, which features the wildlife found around the lake.
Off we went over Sylvan Pass, where there was still some serious snow, lots of small waterfalls cascading down the slopes, and the occasional rock to navigate around, then out of the park. We passed quite a few guest ranches as we headed toward Cody. IMO they are a little too far out of the park to be a good base for Yellowstone, but they might be fun as part of a longer trip. We saw a couple more mountain goats as we drove.
Cody has some great Western museums - my parents always loved visiting them - but we didn't check them out. Maybe some other time. We thought we would stop for the evening in Douglas or Casper, so made a stop at McDonald's to satisfy Mr. Pickle's thrift-loving soul and to use their free wi-fi.

The drive south from Cody through Wind River Canyon is pretty spectacular. There are a lot of geological markers to help you know what kind of stuff you're passing.
We arrived in Thermopolis around 5:00. At this point we were tired of sitting and driving and decided to stop for the night. We spent the night at the Paintbrush Inn www.paintbrushinn.com - $64 for a fairly spacious room with a kitchenette.
Blair's Supermarket is across the street; we stocked up on breakfast supplies and snacks, had dinner at Subway, and decided to check out the water parks in Hot Springs State Park, which we had passed as we entered town. At this point it was getting a little late, so we decided to wait on the water parks until the next morning. We drove around the park a bit, rented "Sherlock Holmes" from the combination movie theater and DVD rental store, and called it a night.
The staff at the Paintbrush Inn were extremely helpful and friendly. They loaned us towels for the water park, swapped the room's DVD player out when ours didn't work, and let us check out late the next day. We were really pleased with our stay.
Still a little more to come...
Lee Ann
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Day 7 and 8 - Thermopolis to Home
After breakfast in our room, we borrowed towels from the motel office and headed back to Hot Springs State Park.
There are two water parks, plus the free town hot spring pool, available. As soon as Mr. Pickle heard Star Plunge www.starplunge.com had three water slides, the decision was made.
Admission is $10 per adult with free readamission all day. They offer swimsuit rentals, locker rentals, and other services if you come unprepared. Star Plunge gets mixed reviews on TripAdvisor, but for the price it was a very pleasant way to spend the morning.
Both indoor and outdoor pools are heated by the hot springs, so the water is really comfortable. There is also a "vapor room" where you can steam yourself if you want.
As I said, there are three water slides at Star Plunge. One is fairly short, designed for kids and the timid (people like me). I was brave, though, and went not only on the little slide, but the 300-something feet long indoor slide and the 500-feet long outdoor slide. Yay me! Once was enough for both, though.... ;-)
Relaxed and smelling vaguely of sulfur (give your suits a good rinse when you're done!), we returned to the Paintbrush Inn, showered, packed, and got back on the road. On the way back to our room, Mr. Pickle realized we hadn't made the all-important coffee stop. I, of course, had scoped out the possibilities the day before, and suggested we stop at the Storyteller bookstore and coffee shop.
This looks like a really nice little store with a pretty good selection of reading material. The owner offers a wide variety of coffees and some teas as well.
After I dithered about a bit trying to decide what to order, I asked for an iced coffee, but didn't realize she didn't already have cold brewed coffee on hand until I saw her pouring hot coffee over a cup filled with ice. :-0 The resulting beverage was...well, it was like drinking coffee-flavored water. I thought about asking for something different, but I'd already changed my mind a few times, so I kept what I had. If you ever stop there, and want an iced non-sweetened coffee, get an iced latte or Americano.
Our trip to Cheyenne was uneventful. We stopped at the Wyoming Pioneer Museum in Douglas and made the most of the 30 minutes we had until they closed for the day. Lots of neat exhibits of old stuff - clothing, dishes, guns, household items, an old bar, farm stuff, etc., etc.
We made reservations at the Rodeway Inn in Cheyenne to get enough Choice Hotel points to use later in the year. The non-smoking room we were assigned reeked of smoke, but the second room they gave us when we asked for a change was fine. Their non-advertised free wifi was a plus, but the ice machine and snack machines were ripped out of the wall. I don't think I would stay here again without major improvements to the property, but it was cheap, clean, and comfortable.
After the obligatory visit to Starbucks for coffee and tea, we headed south on I-25 for home, arriving in the early evening to be greeted by a delicious dinner and a very happy dog.
I will upload pictures next week and post a link here when they are ready for viewing.
Lee Ann
After breakfast in our room, we borrowed towels from the motel office and headed back to Hot Springs State Park.
There are two water parks, plus the free town hot spring pool, available. As soon as Mr. Pickle heard Star Plunge www.starplunge.com had three water slides, the decision was made.

Both indoor and outdoor pools are heated by the hot springs, so the water is really comfortable. There is also a "vapor room" where you can steam yourself if you want.
As I said, there are three water slides at Star Plunge. One is fairly short, designed for kids and the timid (people like me). I was brave, though, and went not only on the little slide, but the 300-something feet long indoor slide and the 500-feet long outdoor slide. Yay me! Once was enough for both, though.... ;-)
Relaxed and smelling vaguely of sulfur (give your suits a good rinse when you're done!), we returned to the Paintbrush Inn, showered, packed, and got back on the road. On the way back to our room, Mr. Pickle realized we hadn't made the all-important coffee stop. I, of course, had scoped out the possibilities the day before, and suggested we stop at the Storyteller bookstore and coffee shop.
This looks like a really nice little store with a pretty good selection of reading material. The owner offers a wide variety of coffees and some teas as well.
After I dithered about a bit trying to decide what to order, I asked for an iced coffee, but didn't realize she didn't already have cold brewed coffee on hand until I saw her pouring hot coffee over a cup filled with ice. :-0 The resulting beverage was...well, it was like drinking coffee-flavored water. I thought about asking for something different, but I'd already changed my mind a few times, so I kept what I had. If you ever stop there, and want an iced non-sweetened coffee, get an iced latte or Americano.
Our trip to Cheyenne was uneventful. We stopped at the Wyoming Pioneer Museum in Douglas and made the most of the 30 minutes we had until they closed for the day. Lots of neat exhibits of old stuff - clothing, dishes, guns, household items, an old bar, farm stuff, etc., etc.
We made reservations at the Rodeway Inn in Cheyenne to get enough Choice Hotel points to use later in the year. The non-smoking room we were assigned reeked of smoke, but the second room they gave us when we asked for a change was fine. Their non-advertised free wifi was a plus, but the ice machine and snack machines were ripped out of the wall. I don't think I would stay here again without major improvements to the property, but it was cheap, clean, and comfortable.
After the obligatory visit to Starbucks for coffee and tea, we headed south on I-25 for home, arriving in the early evening to be greeted by a delicious dinner and a very happy dog.

I will upload pictures next week and post a link here when they are ready for viewing.
Lee Ann
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My pictures are finally online - only six months after I posted my report! 
http://picasaweb.google.com/elendilp...NO61cqfl7WrSg#

http://picasaweb.google.com/elendilp...NO61cqfl7WrSg#
#39
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Thanks for fulfilling your "promise"--lovely pics.
The one of Mr. Pickle and the bison made me laugh. My hubby (VolCrew) did something along the same line in Yellowstone in 2009, and my daughter got a photo--and now that pic is a full-page picture in a Fodor's guide, next to a cautionary note about "don't get near the bison"! In his defense, we were on a boardwalk and he never expected the bison, which were walking around near it, at the Mud Volcano area, to actually get up on the boardwalk and stroll in his direction! But, hey, whose national parks are they, afterall!?
Again, thanks for your gifts here, helping both planners and fellow memory-lane-walkers!--Alecia
The one of Mr. Pickle and the bison made me laugh. My hubby (VolCrew) did something along the same line in Yellowstone in 2009, and my daughter got a photo--and now that pic is a full-page picture in a Fodor's guide, next to a cautionary note about "don't get near the bison"! In his defense, we were on a boardwalk and he never expected the bison, which were walking around near it, at the Mud Volcano area, to actually get up on the boardwalk and stroll in his direction! But, hey, whose national parks are they, afterall!?
Again, thanks for your gifts here, helping both planners and fellow memory-lane-walkers!--Alecia