Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   United States (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/)
-   -   Grand Canyon-Mule Ride Trip Report (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/grand-canyon-mule-ride-trip-report-685569/)

kargirls Mar 6th, 2007 04:11 PM

Grand Canyon-Mule Ride Trip Report
 
FYI...this is my first trip report so it won't be as smooth as those from well traveled friends but I consider it another hilite of my trip. So here goes....

Day 1: WOW!!!! BEAUTIFUL!!! Were the first words from all of us when we reached Phoenix and started on our first Wild West adventure. We, me, my husband and two daughters M is 13 and R is 11, landed in Phoenix and were on the road by noon, headed for Wupatki/Sunset Crater. Being from the South, New Orleans, the landscape was such a change for us, but so beautiful! With a quick stop we were at Sunset Crater by 3:00. After having done Sunset and then Wupatki I wished we had reversed the order. The ruins at the beginning of Wupatki would have been a better start than an ending to that "circle". Nevertheless, we enjoyed it very much! Sunset Crater still had snow around so the girls had a few nibbles to wet their mouths getting used to the altitude. After seeing Wupatki/Sunset we set off to Williams for a night in a caboose!!! Yes, Canyon Motel in Williams, AZ has two caboose and a rail car that have been converted into rooms. We had caboose #1, #2 is supposed to be hauted! Shirley, the owner, could not have been nicer. The caboose was very clean, with a dorm sized frig and microwave along with a 4 cup coffee pot & all the fixin's. Shirley has all sorts of movies to rent, but we were exhausted. The girls absolutely loved it!! We had dinner at Pine Country which was average--except for the pies! They were fantastic! We stared at the case forever trying to decide which to try. Peach won--it would make any grandmother proud! We went back the next morning for breakfast--that is the meal to have at Pine Country. My cinnamon roll french toast was awesome and the portions were huge! After stopping at a Safeway a few blocks up for snacks (I packed a small collaspsible "ice chest")we were on our way to the Canyon. Santa had left us coupons to see the National Geographic Grand Canyon IMAX movie in Tusayan along with two DVDs about the Grand Canyon Mule Ride-must haves to prepare for the trip. I'll have to say we were all disappointed with the movie. We thought the movie would be about the history of the Canyon, but rather it was about the different "phases" of man that have impacted the Canyon. Beautifully done-just not what we had expected. After the movie--straight to the Canyon. If you haven't been, you MUST put this at the top of your "to visit" list. I think it is one of THE required stops every American should make. For me, a spiritual event-simply breath taking. The girls could not stop taking pictures!! We drove from lookout to lookout with every stop just as beautiful as the previous. R decided to get her Jr. Ranger badge so at one stop we did the ranger guided talk, one of the requirements for the badge, which was very informative. The girls were getting hungry and anxious to check in for our mule ride the next day so we made our way to Thunderbird Lodge. We checked in at Bright Angel but before going to our room we checked in for the mule ride. This, the mule ride, we all agreed at the end of the trip was the VERY BEST PART!! In a sense the rest of the trip was "dull" after such a thrill. It would be great to do this at the end of the trip but we all agreed you really need to be fresh for the mule ride. Being on a mule for two days takes a lot out of you. Ok, on to the details....as other posters have mentioned you have to speak fluent English, weight less than 200lbs. and not be afraid of heights. You check in at Bright Angel, get your rain coat, water skin as the girls came to call them, sign waiver forms and step on the scale. Once we all passed muster we headed for the room to fill our plastic suitcases for the trip to Phantom Ranch and have dinner. We rushed through dinner because the girls wanted to get a look at the stone corral and the beginning of the trail. I tried to stall in fear that once they, or I, saw the width of the trail-someone would back out. Nope! Everyone was still excited. So back to the room to try and get some sleep....

Jed Mar 7th, 2007 06:24 AM

My wife and I took the mule trip to Phantom Ranch about 20 years ago. I still say that it is the most exciting trip that anyone can take, since it is just you and the mule. You are not with anyone on a plane, ship, etc. Just you and the mule and 3000 feet straight down.

We are afraid of heights, but were detemined to do it. I was so worried that I took out $500K insurance 6 months beforehand, and cancelled it after. I didn't tell my wife. We survived, but with very sore backsides.

BTW, it would help to use paragraphs. ((*))

bigtyke Mar 7th, 2007 07:09 AM

i agree that if you are not proceeding north, then it is better to visit Wupatki first and then Sunset Crater. If we do Sunset first, then my family is ususally too tired to explore WUpatki as thoroughly as i want to. When visting Wupatki, I try to visit all of the areas, not just the main set of ruins.

If you are heading north to Cameron and on to Page or the Grand Canyon's east entrance, then of course you would do Sunset first.

FLmom Mar 7th, 2007 08:39 AM

I can't wait for the next installment. Sounds like you're planning paid off!

kargirls Mar 7th, 2007 01:51 PM

Sorry about the non-paragraphs!! I started typing and it never occurred to me. Before I go further I want to recommend a few things mentioned by others that I found very helpful. First, The Rough Guide to Southwest USA by Greg Ward. It covers this entire area in great depth and was a fantastic resource. Also a map (Indian Country Guide Map) published by AAA of CA. I couldn't find it in any local bookstores but joined AAA for the trip, sent them an email requesting sources and they mailed me one for free. Again it covers the entire area and also marks points of interest with a brief description.

Day 3 & 4:You report by 7:30 to the stone corral to be matched with your mule. The day riders leave first then about 30 minutes later the overnighters leave. My husband was given Razzo, R rode Shannon, M had Fundis and I rode BB. The girls stayed right behind our wrangler Doug, I was behind them, then the rest of the ladies with the men bringing up the rear. The beginning of the trail is a bit unnerving until you feel certain that the mules know what they're doing. The first time you stop on the trail and they look over the edge is just scarey. By the time you reach Indian Gardens for the lunch stop you've settled down and can enjoy the view, which from the inside of the Canyon is even more beautiful than that at the rim.

We arrived at Phantom Ranch around 2:30. We were given our "suitcases" which amount to a gallon ziplock on steroids. We stopped to take a look at our cabin, take a Motrin for the aches and struck out for a walk to get the blood flowing to our legs. Dinner was served family style and it was delicious-a huge salad, steak, baked potato, two vegetables, rolls and massive pieces of chocolate cake for dessert. After dinner they close the dining hall for a bit and then re-open it to sell postcards, stamps, t-shirts, wine and snacks.

We brought lots of extra apples for the mules so after dinner we fed the mules while we waited for the dinning hall to reopen. The girls and I stopped back in for postcards and t-shirts and then hit the showers.

The cabins have double bunk beds, an alarm clock, sink and toilet. The showers are across the way. Men and women are separate and the showers are individual "compartments" with plenty of towels and dispensors of soap/shampoo.

The next day we were served breakfast early and were back on the trail by 7:30. R was given the thrill of carrying the mail back to the rim-she grinned the whole way up! Going back up was easier on the body, but harder on the mules-we had lots of stops for them to rest. Along the way we saw mule deer and big horn ship. We had missed the Condors by a day!

I just can tell you how much we enjoyed the ride. It is just indescribable being down inside the Canyon. I can't say that I would ever hike to the bottom and back, but I would certainly do another mule ride.

We rimmed out minutes in front of a snow storm. We had the wranglers sign our water skins and then were given our mule skinner certificates. They're framed and hanging proudly for all to see. If you ever have a chance to experience the canyon in this most special way, summon your courage and ride!

BayouGal Mar 7th, 2007 02:29 PM

Excellent report, kargirls! You'd never know it was your first TR. Made me want to saddle up and hit the dusty canyon trail again.

Thanks for sharing with us! :)

FLmom Mar 8th, 2007 03:41 AM

Thanks for the map and resources information. I'm e-mailing today to get one of the Indian Country Guide Maps as DD, 13 and I will be heading out in June.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:20 AM.