Grand Canyon - hike to the bottom?
 

Want to hike to Phantom Ranch, end of April 2010, and need to make reservations. I was all excited about it until I started reading other forums....now not sure. Problem with reading about others, they don't really say what age they are, so hard to get a true perspective. Our group has 4 - 50plus in it. We do walking and hiking, when on vacation, most strenuous was to Delicate Arch and Fiery Furnace in Arches NP and did one small hike about 1 mile down to Queen?? in Bryce....did fine in Arches except was at end of June and was really hot......Bryce was hot too, end of June. Understand south Kaibab is steep going down but shorter than Bright Angel which we should do coming up b/c shade, water, rest areas...........do you think we can do it??? People in group don't want to do mules. How long do you think it takes to hike up, with stops and just average pace? Are we crazy at our age?? Any suggestions for training, or tips to make our trip the best experience possible.......we have a year to prepare.

I've hiked over 1,200 miles in the canyon and taken around 30 people rim-to-rim in a day. 50's is OK if no one is overweight or has ankle or knee problems AND if you regularly do some aerobic exercise like jogging or strenuous walking. But anyone who is overweight or has bad wheels should just wait it out on top.

April is the perfect time, you'll avoid the killer heat of summer, which is when people really get into trouble.

<b>How long do you think it takes to hike up, with stops and just average pace?</b>

Park Service guide says one mph is considered slow to ascend, so 9 hours to hike out would be about right from Phantom up Bright Angel. We usually took about 8 hours to hike rim-to-rim (21 miles, 4,800 ft down, 5,800 ft up) and had at least one guy in his 60's who went, so most people can do it faster than 1 mph.

"Any suggestions for training"

Jogging or stair-master or similar aerobic activity is good. Make sure your shoes are well-broken in or you'll blister up day one and the hike out on day two will be painful. Taking moleskin is a good idea.

If you're generally in good physical shape, all you have to do is prepare. We're making our 3rd hike to Phantom in just a few weeks (April 7). My girls did it when they were 10 and 13. I see ALL ages out there - grandparents hiking up the trail with camping gear on their backs, 7 year olds, etc.

First, make your reservation, reserving meals at the same time. You have to call April 1st, first thing in the morning. They will sell out immediately. If you decide not to go, you can cancel within 48 hours of your hike with a full refund.

Take some nice hikes anywhere around your home. I'm 47, not in the greatest physical shape, but run 4-5 miles once per week, and just love to hike. Right now to help prepare, I go to a nearby highrise building and hit the stairwell. You need to prepare your downstairs muscles as well as the upstairs. Hitting the top 3rd of the canyon is more difficult than a slow run, but you can stop and rest anytime you like.

We take the 7 mile South Kaibab down, and with rest stops, which you need to do to take in the spectacular scenery of this trail, we get down in about 5-6 hours. Going up the 10 mile Bright Angel, it's around 7-8 hours with plenty of breaks. There are numerous resting spots on the way up.

You can do it!! It's a trip of a lifetime as far as I'm concerned - an incredible 2 day journey that you and your friends will never forget.

Thanks for your words of encouragement and advice, I'm feeling better about the hike. Unfortuneatly I am overweight but have been working on that for the last 6 months and continue loosing. I figure the more I loose, the less I have to haul out of the canyon with me. I do have a physical job cleaning two houses per day by myself, and I work out at a gym about 3-4 days per week but will start walking the condo stairwells up to the 5th and 8th floors where I work for my training. As soon as it dries out here, I will have the group hiking more locally.

The hard part is to get the reservations. That will be on April 1. If you succeed, you will have plenty of time to get in shape. Age is definitely not an issue. I am 62 and my husband is 65. We have hiked there several times in the past 3 year. The most recent hike (last September) was rim to rim with a group, among which there were several people in their 70's.

On that trip we hiked up in 5 hours, but several of the younger ones took twice that long. Not because they had to, but because they wanted to---it was so beautiful, they didn't want it to end.

If you go in April, heat will not be much of an issue The last time we went in April, we hiked up in snow for the last hour.

If you are camping, you can have your equipment taken down by the mules. We had a group--all in their 50s--they all carried their packs. One couple did have a tough time coming up, but they just took it slowly--they wished they had used the mules for their campng equipment.

Our backpack holds a camelback for water.

You do need poles--easier on your knees going down, helps going up too. They really make hiking easier. Cut your toenails--if your boot is not really snug, your toes will hit the front of your boot--saw some bloody toenails. We also wore gel toes(sold at dance shops for ballet dancers).

I wrote a trip report here. Part of our group stayed at the top and the others hiked down. Lots to do at the top for any hikers that don't head all the way to the bottom.

I did it at 47 with just a lot of step work and walking. You've got to get on the phone first thing in the morning and start dialing. Have all your info handy because the one phone call is going to handle your room at the top the day before and the day you come out, your dorm at the bottom and all your meals.

The best website I have found that really helped me was www.hitthetrail.com. Tons of great info and advice.

We went in mid March and had snow the first mile or so. This really scared me but we brought Yak Tracks and they worked great. The snow actually made the trail easier. Poles are a must. Something I used that worked great were toe gel pads that ballet toe dancers use in their toe shoes. One of the big problems is your toes shifting down in your boot as you descend.

I loved going down South Kaibab because it's on an outside edge so you have a fabulous view of the canyon all the way down. Bright Angel is in an inside fold so you don't have that view but it works fine since you are going up and it's less steep.

It's the hardest thing I've ever done but one of my top proud accomplishments.

In addition to jogging, exercise your knees by walking up and down stairs. Like any other fitness regimen, start slow and short until your muscles get stronger. Increase endurance (almost no need to increase speed) until you can go over an hour continuously without any twinge of pain.

As everyone keeps saying, age is not an issue. Indeed, fitness as of today is almost not an issue. What matters is your willingness to make the effort to properly prepare. If you do so, the hike will be one of the best experiences of your life. If you don't, it will be one of the worst. The choice is yours.

just fyi....we made it down south kaibob, spent the night at phantom, and back up bright angel. It was very nice going down, really took our time just to take in the scenery,about 7 hours, but coming up was a little rough for many reasons. One, I was still over weight, but had worked out or hiked every day for 4 months straight, and hired a personal tainor for 20 sessions right before leaving. Two, my brother in law gave our group a cold prior to hiking, so I was sick. And three, it rained, poured, sleeted and snowed on the way back up, so I didn't get to enjoy the scenery and was not equiped with the correct clothing and gear...though the extra body fat kept me warmer than the others in the group, took about 8.5 hrs.....but I did it and glad I did. Would I do it again...I'd have to think about it...maybe like childbirth, over time you forget the pain and only remember the good part. A great experience and met some really neat people on the trail, at the bottom and at the top. Bottom line, if you are determined you can do it, even if you are over 50 and overweight.

Make sure you are well prepared.

The rangers can charge you for the cost of rescue if you cannot complete the hike and they have to bring you up.

Congratulations scootergirl, and thanks for updating this thread!

<b>Bottom line, if you are determined you can do it, even if you are over 50 and overweight.</b>

At the risk of being a buzz kill I'd point out that "it rained, poured, sleeted and snowed on the way back up" is easier hiking weather than the summer heat. It was 93 F at Phantom a couple days ago and will soon be over 100 F almost every day, conditions that are tough for hiking out. As I mentioned in an earlier post "over weight and over 50" can do this hike in cooler temps, but it's very risky when it's hot.

<b>The rangers can charge you for the cost of rescue </b>

I've heard $500 for the donkey ride, $2,000 for a chopper.

I plan on doing this someday, but would like to go rim to rim. Do you think 1 night @ phantom or 2 nights?

I had thought of going down North and coming up on the South. Not sure which trail to come up on the south and not totally sure if that is the right direction.

Any opinions on this? I guess as close to mid-May would be best as far as temperatures or would Mid-October be better(of course timing it with North Rim Lodge open)

<b>Do you think 1 night @ phantom or 2 nights? </b>

Are you camping or staying in the cabins? If camping then two nights split at Cottonwood (about 7 miles down the north Kaibab) and then Phantom campground (about 14 miles) is a good split.

If staying at the cabins then one night is fine, two is great if you can get it (hard to get even one night). There are some nice day hikes you can do the lay-over day.

<b>I had thought of going down North and coming up on the South. Not sure which trail to come up on the south and not totally sure if that is the right direction. </b>

North to south is better because the hike out is 1,000 ft lower and the distance from Phantom to the south rim is several miles (5 or 7 depending on the trail) shorter than to the north rim.

I always preferred coming out south Kaibab because it is a couple miles shorter (and in the 'good ole days' I could park up there so didn't have to shuttle to get to the vehicle), but the conventional wisdom is to take Bright Angel since there is water at Indian Gardens, 1.5 and 3 mile rest houses, and also it's 400 ft less elevation. Kaibab has no water (you should carry four quarts; can get by with 2 quarts on BA since you can refill canteens) and is steeper, but is blessed with much less mule traffic and better views.

If you are unsure or if it's hot then BA is the safer option.

<b>I guess as close to mid-May would be best as far as temperatures or would Mid-October be better(of course timing it with North Rim Lodge open)</b>

We used to do it late May, as soon as the north rim lodge opened, and then in mid-Oct, the weekend before the lodge closed. Hike south to north, overnight, hike back day 2, carrying just water, a bit of food and a change of clothes in a fanny pack, so very little weight.

Twice out of about 10 years we had to cancel the May trip because the north Kaibab trail had washed away and wasn't open in time. A couple of times the inner canyon temps were over 100 F (once 105 F) and even though we would leave at 4 AM in May it was still hot.

In Oct the trails were always open, temps were moderate except the one day we hit sleet and snow about 1,000 ft below the north rim, and Ribbon Falls (the brunch stop on the south-north leg) was in perfect condition, with a 60 ft wall of shimmering moss (in May the heavy run-off has washed off much of the moss).

So if you have a choice then Oct has better odds of the trails being opened and more temperate weather. Seemed easier to get cabin reservations in Oct too.

Ok, I will plan an October hike(probably 2012). I would stay at the cabins most likely. I would make reservations 13 months in advance, so I would have better odds of getting a night or nights that I wanted. Still undecided on what trail to take. I work in high humidity 100 degree weather, but much above 95 does start to take a toll on me.

<b>Still undecided on what trail to take. I work in high humidity 100 degree weather, but much above 95 does start to take a toll on me.</b>

If staying in the cabins then you'll probably have a very light pack (no tent, bag, stove, etc). And in mid-Oct it's more likely 85 than 100 at the bottom for the afternoon highs. With an early start you'd probably be coming out in 60-70 F temps, so south Kaibab would be fine for hiking out (light pack, no killer heat, early start, you're in good shape) so long as you have 4 quarts of water.

> The rangers can charge you for the cost of rescue
> I've heard $500 for the donkey ride, $2,000 for a chopper.

I've followed this topic for over twenty years, and I want to make this clear: you will ONLY be taken out of the Canyon in a helicopter, and then ONLY if you have a MEDICAL emergency requiring a trip to a hospital. Too tired or inadequately prepared to walk out? That's YOUR problem.

Don't bother the Rangers asking for a mule ride out. You will NOT get one at ANY price.

If you do have a medical emergency, you will pay for the trip to the hospital, just like you will pay for any ambulance ride for any emergency. The fact that it involves a helicopter ride will make the cost MUCH higher.

Rangers can give first aid and assist you with non-emergency problems. But they will NOT provide a taxi.

Congrats, Scootergirl! I walked up the day before my 51st birthday. On the way up, we had to let our kids (then ages 18, 16 and 13) walk ahead of us because our slow pace was driving them crazy. And yes, I had trained for months and they hadn't trained at all. There is something to say for youth!