Going from Carmel to Hearst Castle
 

This week my partner and I went to visit Hearst Castle. It was foggy when we left at around noon, but along the way to big sur it cleared up. We stopped at Napenthe for lunch in big sur. The view was magnificent, but the wait was 45 minutes for a table. We need to remember that the river Inn, Big Surf Inn and the Coast gallery are also good options for lunch. there are now 3 one-lane spots between carmel and big sur where there is construction, so there is a small wait at each spot.

We then resumed our drive south. There wasn't a lot of traffic, but the area just before ragged point is very curvy. With a short stop at Ragged Point Restaurant, it took us a little less than 2 hours to get close to san simeon. Right before san simeon, there is a lighthouse. A mile or two after the lighthouse, there is an elephant seal viewing area. there are signs from each directions alerting you where the viewing area is. The parkjng lot is right above the beach where on colony of elephant seals hang out. We have a sea lion colony in Pacific Grove, and it is interesting that the sea lions and elephant seals both lie down on the beach right next to one another. I'm not sure whether this is for warmth or safety or some other reason. Anyway, the high point of our visit was that 2 seals got in a fight of some sort, and they were extremely loud in their bellowing.

We then went to the quality Inn around Hearst Castle to check in. One thing we learned is that most of these motels do not have air conditioning, so you need to slide open windows or a sliding door for cooling. It's obviously much safer to do this on the second floor. The Quality Inn was quiet and had a heated pool and a hot tub. There is also an adjacent restaurant (the Manta Rey) that was ok and convenient.
The breakfast at the motel was very good-eggs, bacon, yogurt, fruit, toast, cereal, juice.

Finally-to Hearst Castle! We had reserved tickets for the basic tour, which were not needed for weekdays in the fall. (they have large tours every 10 minutes!). We decided to see the 45 minute movie before going to the castle. the movie is a little odd-it spends a lot of time emphasizing how Hearst became enamored with works of antiquity due to european tours with his mother as a boy. In the movie, we learn that Patty Hearst has a daughter who is now an actress.

We then got on the bus for the 20 minute ride up the hill to casa grande. The first part of the tour is outside-the big pool, the garden, one of the other casitas. The views from the hilltop are amazing on a clear day. The facade and entry to the main house is incredibly impressive.We then went into the gathering room where guest would gather before dinner for drinks. A very large fireplace, and of course tapestries. then we went into the dining room, where the ceiling was 28 feet high and the room was 28 feet wide-much ,longer than 28 feet of course. The table could seat a very large number of guests. There were a number of large silver objects-I guess candle holders-on the table. A very large fireplace. there were tapestries and Islamic tiles. A beautiful wood carved ceiling. . we went into another smaller room where guests would go after dinner. Another beautiful wood ceiling.. this was next to the billiard room. We then went into the movie theater, watched a short movie, then went to the tennis courts and the indoor pool, which has an Islamic theme. Then onto the bus for the drive back down the hill.

this was a great experience-I wonder what the other tours deal with. these is a longer Julia Morgan tour and an art tour, for example.

We stopped at ragged point restaurant for lunch- a very pleasant place, much less busy than Nepenthe.

"""We stopped at Napenthe for lunch in big sur. The view was magnificent, but the wait was 45 minutes for a table. We need to remember that the river Inn, Big Surf Inn and the Coast gallery are also good options for lunch.""

You're kidding, I hope. That's like comparing Versailles to a log cabin. I suppose that if you need a 20 min lunch - then the others are an option.

Stu Dudley

Quite honestly, I NEVER stop there. Overpriced, food not that great and you can get views along the way. Not to mention the wait which can stretch upwards of two hours in season.

"""I NEVER stop there......Not to mention the wait which can stretch upwards of two hours in season.""

Yep. Nobody ever goes there anymore, because it is too crowded.

Y. Berra

Just opens up one more seat for the rest of us . . .

Some of us prefer more active sightseeing. Standing in line for 2 hours isn't my thing.

I've dined at Nepenthe over 100 times since the 1950s. Four times in the past 13 months. I've never waited for 2 hrs - cause I'm astute enough to go there at the "right" time of year and the right time of day.

Actually, waiting 2 hrs and hanging out on their deck doing so, is a great way to spend time and relax after an active sightseeing day.

Stu Dudley

I've never waited more than 20 or 30 minutes and usually no wait at all. Must be lucky I guess -- only eaten there maybe 10 or 12 times.

You must have gone as an infant?

I graduated from grammar school in LA County in 1961. Born in San Francisco. Lots if Hwy 1 trips in the 50s & 60s with my parents.

Stu Dudley

My parents move to the Bay Area in the late '60's, worked in The City. I went to UCLA in the first half of the 70's. Lots of Hwy 1 trips with and without parental units although usually not all the way to Big Sur. That came later after graduation when the road wasn't closed or fogged in. My brother lives near the SF airport. We preferred to go out to the coast to a dog-friendly patio place, which Nepenthe isn't.

There was one day trip to Point Lobos where we barely made it home in time to see the moon landing live.

Nice trip report. We drove down from a work meeting in Monterey. Loved the day trip. A co-worker's 14 year daughter was fascinated by the mer-men statues at the outdoor pool. Didn't know about Lydia Hearst. I checked her IMDB but haven't seen her in anything.

Another fan of Nepenthe. We will definitely stop on the next coastal drive. Covid delayed the road trip with my nephew, now a CA resident, but it will be a definite stop. He's been before, as he's been out exploring.

On the last trip, we stayed overlooking the water at Moonstone Beach. Enjoyed nearby Cambria too. Now I really want to return!