Glacier National Park
 

Planning to drive from Portland, OR to see Glacier National Park this August. Will be traveling with three kids. Was wondering if anyone could give me input on our itinerary.

At the park:

Stay in West Glacier and spend the next day driving the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Stopping to take short hikes (kids are ages 17, 13, 4) and to take pictures.

Stay in St. Mary's.

Drive to see Many Glaciers area.

Spend the night in St. Mary's again.

Drive back down through the park to West Glacier and spend the night there before heading back to Oregon.

I know many people recommend staying in Many Glaciers area, but I have also read that the lodge is very rustic. I know myself and my family, and we all need a good night's sleep to function well. Is the driving back and forth to St. Mary's truly too much? (We were planning to do VRBO.) We stayed outside of the park when we visited Yosemite and did not mind all of the driving.

Also, I was wondering if anyone had ideas for things to see along the way from Oregon. We are relatively new to the West Coast. I read about the bison preserve near Moises on
this website and wanted to stop there. Thanks!

At this time you would chose what you get....It's very late for reservation.
You have to go on the glacier website www.nps.gov/glac in the section plan your visit and then lodging.
In the west part apgar village in is the best option.
In Many Glacier Swiftcurrent motor inn is very convenient , quiet, with large rooms and showers.
St Mary lodge is expensive, with a not so good service and rooms are very various in quality and price.
Rising sun motel rooms are like the Swiftcurrent with l'argent bathrooms.
So try now and see what you can get.
I've made my reservation in september for july/august and have not had all my first choices...
Good luck
Erik

I don't think driving the Going to the Sun Road more than once would be a bad thing. It's not that from from St. Mary to Many Glacier. I'm going the last week of July. Have a great trip!

You might want to check out some of the ranger-led hikes, some of the boat tours, etc. If you do much hiking, you might want to buy some bear spray. I know the lodges aren't for everyone, but we love them. Many Glacier just got an update last year-I think?

Erik pretty much explained it.

It's about 45 minutes from Rising Sun to Many Glacier.

I was in Glacier last August with my daughter and going back this August with a friend for a longer period.

We spend two night at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and two nights at Rising Sun.

We got a good night's sleep in each.

It's a good idea to spend a night in Many Glacier as Fishercap Lake is a very short 10-15 minutes hike from the end for the Swiftcurrent Inn parking lot. Every time we went there we saw deer and/or moose and wildlife is out more often early morning and late in the afternoon or early evening.

The four year old is in between. Two old to be carried and probably too young to do a complete hike.

Grinnell Glacier may not work for even part way as you'll take two boats to the trailhead. Then you could hike as far as you want. The issue would be then having to wait for the boat to return. You could wander around the area of the boat dock until the boat returns. When we came back some people hanging around there saw a grizzly go into the lake from the side. We saw it later from the boat.

Iceberg Lake might be better as it starts in Swiftcurrent parking lot and you can go as far as you want. The complete hike is over 4 miles each way but once you do the very start it opens out of the woods and the scenery is spectacular.

At Logan's Point on GTTS Rd you can hike all or part of Hidden Lake and/or the early part of the Highline trail. Just be careful with the 4 year old and the cable portion.

We saw mountain goats around there.

You can see photos from my trip to Glacier at:

www.travelwalks.com.

I never really got too far west of Logan's Point and didn't get to Two Medicine. Will get to those this summer.

If this is with a rental car, I would consider taking the Empire Builder from Portland or flying to either Spokane or Kalispell and renting the car.
You should be good on the GTTS road in August. I drove up 17 miles from St. Marys on June 1 last year before I came to the closed gate. Someday I will be there at the right time to drive over Logan Pass.

Depending on your itinerary, the ghost town of Garnet (near Missoula) might be wroth a visit:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...th/4235187637/

The drives will not be a problem at all. If GTTS is not open, there's no problem with driving from East to West (and vice versa) on Hwy 2. In fact, I highly recommend that ONE late afternoon/evening that you make that drive. One of my favorite parts of our Glacier trip was stopping at the salt lick on Hwy 2 and watching the goats.
http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisi...goatlick06.pdf

We stopped every night. Couldn't get enough of watching the goats from the bridge and your kids would love it.

If your kids like trains, you'd enjoy a quick stop at the Isaac Walton Inn at Essex near the goat lick. The structure was built for railroad workers and is a historic inn. There are also train cars to sleep in. We stopped by and walked around and I saw more hummingbirds on their porch than anywhere else in my life -
http://www.izaakwaltoninn.com/

In fact, we stayed nearby in a family member's cabin and really like the midway location on Hwy 2. Yes, we had to drive back and forth - but we were halfway "there". We ate in the park during the day for lunch and then stopped by East Glacier to bring home something for dinner. Usually it was a pizza picked up at the East Glacier Trading Company (just outside the park boundary and across the street from the train depot). We'd wander the tiny town while we were waiting for it and would buy a couple of slices of pie from the diner down the street.https://www.facebook.com/pages/Glaci...r/226357713000

Speaking of pie, be sure to read monpetit's trip report. I don't know of anyone who knows Glacier better - other than workers in the park.

Since we were staying on Hwy 2, we stopped at a simple place for breakfast - http://www.glacierhaveninn.com/
and the nice folks there gave us sightseeing tips and even made the reservations for us for the boat ride at Many Glaciers. We were so glad they offered because there were long lines to buy tickets at the lakeside - including a family who also ate breakfast there at the same time.

We really enjoyed our lunch in the big dining room at Many Glaciers and the lunch at the Lake McDonald Lodge.

Last tip - be sure to take a ride in one of the historic "jammers". I've driven GTTS myself (on a 4th of July when it snowed on us!) but took a tour out of Lake McDonald on the last trip. The jammer is definitely the best way to see the park! HIGHLY recommend.

Thank you for all of the thoughtful replies regarding activities, lodging, and food!

I am becoming a little confused, though.

I know that we can't see everything and that we will have to visit again one day when everyone can participate in long hikes. What would be the best itinerary for a first-time visit with the kids (17, 13, 4)? Should we do 2 nights in West Glacier and THEN 2 nights in St. Mary area and then head back on Highway 2 as Starrs recommended? (As opposed to 1 night West Glacier, 2 nights St. Mary, 1 night West Glacier on the return.)

Can I expect the road to be open in mid-August? If it is not, can you do out and back trips to the closed portion?

You can expect the road to be open in August.
I would say any hikes that the 17 and 13 year old is up for.
4 year old might need to keep it at no more than 2 or 3 hours unless he/she really likes to hike and has already done some.

I would do 2 and 2 rather than 1,2,1.

I wouldn't move three times. There's no reason for it. The distances aren't that great.

GTTS should definitely be open in August. No worries there. It is closed until they clear the snow and open up the drive to Logan Pass, and then at the end of the season. When it's closed, you drive part of the drive out of West Glacier until you get to the barricade, turn around, go out of the park, drive east on Hwy 2 until you get to East Glacier and drive as far as the GTTS is open. In short, you can navigate the park - just now all the way through on GTTS over Logan Pass.

We were there "too early" on our last visit, but the jammer driver waited - along with LOTS of others - and sure enough the barricade was opened for the year and we were one of the first ones to Logan Pass. The Visitor Center was open, but they were still unpacking the gift shop. The sidewalks were cleared but the snow was higher than one's head. It was exciting! There's a video on YouTube showing the clearing of the road and it's amazing how much snow they move each year.

Glacier is amazing - enjoy your trip!

I think would do best by staying 2 nights West Glacier and 2 nights in St. Mary's in a VRBO. We did a similar thing with our family a few years ago and it worked out great. We did have one night in the Many Glacier Lodge and it was a big mistake. It was expensive and the rooms were terrible--run down and they did not keep out the noise. (I even overheard a park ranger recommend not staying there.)

BTW, the VRBO we stayed at in West Glacier was called "Bear's Den" and it was GREAT! You might want to check it out for your family.

You have to decide what your priorities are.

I am not interested in a Jammer ride or a 1 hour boat ride for scenery purposes (I'll take it as a shuttle as in Grinnell Glacier) that ends up using a good part of the day.

For me it's all about scenery, wildlife and waterfalls.

A relatively short hike takes you to St Mary Falls & Virginia Falls.

Well I STRONGLY disagree with the above, especially with kids of ages 17, 13, 4. I've driven GTTS myself and it is FAR more enjoyable for the driver and the passengers to relax and enjoy the scenery - and the jammer is lots of fun for the kids as well. The boat ride was incredible. We planned to go on the hike but those boarding the boat at the trailhead had just encountered a grizzly on the path (actually the griz followed them for a while). We decided to change our plans and just enjoy the boat ride with incredible scenery. ;)

And. . . as I wrote. You have to decide your priorities. Mine would be very different from yours.

Two years ago I took my daughter and granddaughter to Yosemite. That trip wasn't the same as it would have been with adults alone.

I would never go on a junior ranger hike myself.

Depending of the horary of arrival :
2 nights in Apgar : if you arrive soon in the day , hike around Lake Mac Donald , kayaking or rafting in this part of the park, visiting Lake Mc Donald lodge, bicycle path...
On the second day, you should drive in the north fork to Bowman Lake , with some easy hikes( hidden meadow, lower quartz lake) and chance to see wildlife.
On the 3rd day, GTTS with avalanche lake and trail of the cedars in the west part and then on Logan pas, or hidden lake or the garden wall.Falls on St Mary lake.
2 nights at Swiftcurrent : it allows fishercap lake on late afternoon or Apikuni falls for the oldest sons and father.
The day after, Iceberg lake or Grinnel Glacier or Swiftcurrent valley to bullhead lake or Grinnel lake. You have choice.
On the way back, a detour by Two medecine worth the miles with eventuality a small hike( twin falls) and then highway 2 which has some very nice spots.
While in Apgar, Eddies is a good choice to breakfast and diner,
In Many glacier, Ptarmigan room worth the $ and the garden Restaurant has excellent pizza( for the kits...) but breakfast are not at top. While driving thru St Mary buy 179 or 2 Berry pies at the small family restaurant here and your breakfast will be exceptionnal...
Erik

Correction : 1 or 2 Berry pies ...
The name is Park cafe for the pies
Erik

In my opinion Park Cafe is HIGHLY overated. Try Two Sister's Cafe just north of the Park Cafe.
Also, I'd suggest visiting with a Ranger at Apgar visitor's center. Explain your preferences as to hiking, scenery, photography etc and see what he/she suggest as to the best way to spend your time. They have all the latest information including which trails may be posted for bears, the latest weather, parking availability, info on FREE shuttle bus service, info on jammer tours etc.

Wow! Thank you all. I appreciate all of the tips and advice. I think we will do 2 nights west, 2 nights east and drive highway 2 when we leave the east side. Now I need to get busy booking!

When you leave the east side take the road up past Two Medicine Lake. You might see wild horses on US 89 south of St. Mary.
When I was there on June 1, the horses were licking road salt on the highway causing a bit of a delay. Make a stop at the big monument on US 2 at Marias Pass. The other things to see along US 2 are the Isaac Walton Lodge at Essex and the salt lick area where the goats hang out sometimes.

We saw the wild horses too. A herd of about 20. Also saw a red fox on the run.

The goats are almost always there, especially at dusk. Dusk is late in the summer. We saw them every day.

monpetit, I have a question - do you eat pie for breakfast every day? If so, do you have other items to or just pie? I love your trip reports but at first was surprised at how much you mentioned pie. Now, after reading your reports, I'm thinking that's a pretty good idea for breakfast. :-)

We don't eat pie every breakfast...but almost...
In Glacier, while in the west part, Eddie's in Apgar had some nice breakfast and eggs not so bad but they have also some pies...if berries or apple with a good coffee pot it's nice(sometimes more difficult to find a good coffee than a pie...).
In West Glacier just across the road/tunnel's entrance the small restaurant here, also frequented by the locals have some very good berry pies.Coffee is so so. You can buy the pie and have the coffee in the small shop near T shirt company store. The coffee and cappuccino are real coffee.
In East Glacier two medecine gril's and luna have also good pies and sometimes we buy a complete pie and this will be our breakfast for the days after.
What we like : drive to two medecine, buy a cup of coffee at the store and eat the pie in front of the lake before hiking...
Finally, in St Mary the park cafe has very good pies(I've not tried the restaurant in itself, only the pies...).
And it is generally our breakfasts in Many Glacier : the breakfasts at the garden restaurant are for us not very good...Too much lipids in the classic american breakfast and you have impression to eat your eggs all the morning long...
When you hike you need some proteins, and quick and slow glucids : pies have all of that...
There are some pies in the dining room in the lodges but not every day and they don't sell the whole pie...
Finally we have never found good pancakes in the park but we try and we'have not said our last word...
Erik

That is so very interesting. I knew the quality of pies were important to you but we only eat pie a few times a year. Maybe I need to try out this "pie for breakfast" approach. :-)

I checked and Two Medicines Diner is where we picked up the pie - a slice each of the huckleberry and blueberry. We picked it up as we were waiting for the pizza (pie) to be cooked at the East Glacier Trading Company. LOVE that store and learned last night the two (EGTC and TMD) have the same owner. Made me want to go back too...

Some notes: Montana is famous for pie, and my wife, sister and I had it at least twice a day. We ate pie at BOTH Luna and Two Sisters (near Babb).

GTTS is a beautiful road but when we drove it in August a few years ago, it was absolutely mobbed. Nowhere to park at the pass, so I drove around the parking lot, around and around and around, while the others went in to use the toilet. Never got to stop, never got to get out. Never got to see a view but I remember it from my ViewMaster, so what the heck. Never got out of second gear except in the parking lot: second gear all the way up (we were coming from the west), second gear all the way down.

Oh pie is a huge deal for me too. LOL Best pie ever at a national park is Capitol Reef Gifford House, IMOP. The fruit is even picked there. I am going to Glacier this next summer. and I have pie on my agenda.

BTW, I have pie for breakfast all the time at my house. And we don't have anything else with it. Bacon and pie--yuck.

I prefer the traditional pies, but I can always do a fried pie or something along that line if I have to.

Of course you can get the best of both worlds with a Quiche.

Ackislander, that's why I'm such a fan of the jammers. I was a bit so-so before we took the tour. I LOVED seeing Glacier from the open top antique jammer. I drove the GTTS road the first time in 1986. I don't mind driving mountain roads and the drive was "fine". Not much more than that - just fine. It was also the Bicentennial of the Statue of Liberty and we were trying to get a signal of the celebration on a little TV. On the drive I yelled "It's snowing!" and the navigator said "That's the best picture I can get!". I wasn't talking about the poor TV reception (snow) but the real stuff falling from the sky...on the 4th of July! What a memory!

Anyway, on the last trip I'm glad I was talked into the jammer drive. It was a FABulous experience!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2K3W9hxjlE

I would absolutely do a jammer trip next time. We were fitting in the park on the way to a wedding in Waterton Lakes so were pressed for time to organize things in advance.

TO ACKISLANDER

After 9:30am the parking lot will be filled almost every day, hence the need for the FREE shuttle that travels Apgar to St. Mary with stops along the way including Loagan Pass.

That of course is LOGAN Pass!!!

As John wrote, get to Logan's Pass parking lot by 9:30 at the latest.

The day we hiked to Hidden Lake and on the Highline trail we got there before 9:30 and the parking lot was less than 1/4 full. This was on a beautiful day in early August.

The jammers serve a purpose but it depends upon your style and goals. For me it wouldn't work.

Some of the stops we made and the related detours probably aren't on their stop list. For example, the Lunch Creek parking area a couple of minutes east of Logan's Pass. A beautiful walk/hike up along a cascading waterfall.

There are several jammer routes. We enjoyed our trip. We had no problem driving back to specific places we wanted to see more of. I didn't want to do the jammer tour but went along with the others. I'm glad they insisted. Different strokes for different folks. Just sharing what I liked about it. :-)

i am just starting to plan this trip----it may be too late for this summer--we'll see. Are the "jammer" trips the same as Red Bus?

Jammers or Gear Jammers are the same as the Historic Red Tour Buses. Very similar to Yellowstone's Yellow Tour Bus, if you are familiar with that. I plan on doing one this summer for the first time in Glacier, I did enjoy the one in Yellowstone.

Yes.

We also took a tour of Livingston, MT - which was the original entry to Yellowstone in the train age - in a jammer.

The guide passed around a binder with photos showing the restoration. I looked at the pics...and looked at the guy sitting behind us...looked at the pics...looked at the guy. I finally asked. Sure enough, the man who restored the coach was sitting behind us on the tour (with his son too).

I told the guide. She was surprised. And he shared a little bit about the restoration. It was a great moment.

That would be a great moment

I tried to post his picture as my profile pic but there was a problem uploading. I DID post all of the pics to my Facebook page, including pictures of the restoration process in the binder, pics of him during the tour and greeting the guide as he exited at the end of the tour. Nice guy. Great restoration.

Yea, sounds so cool. We will definitely take one in GNP. Is this something that one can make when at lodging in the park, or do they fill up fast and should be made before arriving there?

Bookmarking

Visited PNW 4 years ago -- arrv'd at Glacier coming up through Helena & Great Falls into the east side; reserved at Many Glacier which we loved; two couples, two rooms, their first one upon inspection was happily changed to a larger, brighter room; ours was on lowest level but had door right out to the lake. Room very large w/ fireplace, two twin beds, very quiet and comfortable. Food quite good. Spotted grizzly not far from the lake one morning. Husbands confronted moose on their horse ride.

Pies: Huckleberry, huckleberry, huckleberry -- icecreams, pie, pancakes, syrup, so so tasty. Also still at 56 degrees is bottle of "Rock Slide" a syrah/zin from Missoula vines. Only in Montana.

Only went whole route of GTTS road once, stopping at Lk MacDonald, then couple nights in Whitefish before boarding train to Portland and points north. GTTS under construction which caused significant delays but friendly visit w/ construction sign-holder telling us all about her life there. Liked the atmosphere of Many Glacier much more than St Mary's, but Lk MacDonald was nice too. I'd also say 2 & 2 nt stays. You will not look for add'l activities, but down to the southeast is unusual town of Choteau, where there are amazing dinosaur fossils, first site found in North America. Great day trip from east side of park. Sandwiched between the plains and Rockies and pops up at you.

Wish we could get to MT someday again..... love at first sight.