Glacier National Park
Jan 5th, 2013, 09:07 AM
#1
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Glacier National Park
Planning to drive from Portland, OR to see Glacier National Park this August. Will be traveling with three kids. Was wondering if anyone could give me input on our itinerary.
At the park:
Stay in West Glacier and spend the next day driving the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Stopping to take short hikes (kids are ages 17, 13, 4) and to take pictures.
Stay in St. Mary's.
Drive to see Many Glaciers area.
Spend the night in St. Mary's again.
Drive back down through the park to West Glacier and spend the night there before heading back to Oregon.
I know many people recommend staying in Many Glaciers area, but I have also read that the lodge is very rustic. I know myself and my family, and we all need a good night's sleep to function well. Is the driving back and forth to St. Mary's truly too much? (We were planning to do VRBO.) We stayed outside of the park when we visited Yosemite and did not mind all of the driving.
Also, I was wondering if anyone had ideas for things to see along the way from Oregon. We are relatively new to the West Coast. I read about the bison preserve near Moises on
this website and wanted to stop there. Thanks!
At the park:
Stay in West Glacier and spend the next day driving the Going-to-the-Sun Road. Stopping to take short hikes (kids are ages 17, 13, 4) and to take pictures.
Stay in St. Mary's.
Drive to see Many Glaciers area.
Spend the night in St. Mary's again.
Drive back down through the park to West Glacier and spend the night there before heading back to Oregon.
I know many people recommend staying in Many Glaciers area, but I have also read that the lodge is very rustic. I know myself and my family, and we all need a good night's sleep to function well. Is the driving back and forth to St. Mary's truly too much? (We were planning to do VRBO.) We stayed outside of the park when we visited Yosemite and did not mind all of the driving.
Also, I was wondering if anyone had ideas for things to see along the way from Oregon. We are relatively new to the West Coast. I read about the bison preserve near Moises on
this website and wanted to stop there. Thanks!
Jan 5th, 2013, 10:12 AM
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At this time you would chose what you get....It's very late for reservation.
You have to go on the glacier website www.nps.gov/glac in the section plan your visit and then lodging.
In the west part apgar village in is the best option.
In Many Glacier Swiftcurrent motor inn is very convenient , quiet, with large rooms and showers.
St Mary lodge is expensive, with a not so good service and rooms are very various in quality and price.
Rising sun motel rooms are like the Swiftcurrent with l'argent bathrooms.
So try now and see what you can get.
I've made my reservation in september for july/august and have not had all my first choices...
Good luck
Erik
You have to go on the glacier website www.nps.gov/glac in the section plan your visit and then lodging.
In the west part apgar village in is the best option.
In Many Glacier Swiftcurrent motor inn is very convenient , quiet, with large rooms and showers.
St Mary lodge is expensive, with a not so good service and rooms are very various in quality and price.
Rising sun motel rooms are like the Swiftcurrent with l'argent bathrooms.
So try now and see what you can get.
I've made my reservation in september for july/august and have not had all my first choices...
Good luck
Erik
Jan 5th, 2013, 10:38 AM
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I don't think driving the Going to the Sun Road more than once would be a bad thing. It's not that from from St. Mary to Many Glacier. I'm going the last week of July. Have a great trip!
You might want to check out some of the ranger-led hikes, some of the boat tours, etc. If you do much hiking, you might want to buy some bear spray. I know the lodges aren't for everyone, but we love them. Many Glacier just got an update last year-I think?
You might want to check out some of the ranger-led hikes, some of the boat tours, etc. If you do much hiking, you might want to buy some bear spray. I know the lodges aren't for everyone, but we love them. Many Glacier just got an update last year-I think?
Jan 5th, 2013, 11:08 AM
#4
Erik pretty much explained it.
It's about 45 minutes from Rising Sun to Many Glacier.
I was in Glacier last August with my daughter and going back this August with a friend for a longer period.
We spend two night at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and two nights at Rising Sun.
We got a good night's sleep in each.
It's a good idea to spend a night in Many Glacier as Fishercap Lake is a very short 10-15 minutes hike from the end for the Swiftcurrent Inn parking lot. Every time we went there we saw deer and/or moose and wildlife is out more often early morning and late in the afternoon or early evening.
The four year old is in between. Two old to be carried and probably too young to do a complete hike.
Grinnell Glacier may not work for even part way as you'll take two boats to the trailhead. Then you could hike as far as you want. The issue would be then having to wait for the boat to return. You could wander around the area of the boat dock until the boat returns. When we came back some people hanging around there saw a grizzly go into the lake from the side. We saw it later from the boat.
Iceberg Lake might be better as it starts in Swiftcurrent parking lot and you can go as far as you want. The complete hike is over 4 miles each way but once you do the very start it opens out of the woods and the scenery is spectacular.
At Logan's Point on GTTS Rd you can hike all or part of Hidden Lake and/or the early part of the Highline trail. Just be careful with the 4 year old and the cable portion.
We saw mountain goats around there.
You can see photos from my trip to Glacier at:
www.travelwalks.com.
I never really got too far west of Logan's Point and didn't get to Two Medicine. Will get to those this summer.
It's about 45 minutes from Rising Sun to Many Glacier.
I was in Glacier last August with my daughter and going back this August with a friend for a longer period.
We spend two night at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn and two nights at Rising Sun.
We got a good night's sleep in each.
It's a good idea to spend a night in Many Glacier as Fishercap Lake is a very short 10-15 minutes hike from the end for the Swiftcurrent Inn parking lot. Every time we went there we saw deer and/or moose and wildlife is out more often early morning and late in the afternoon or early evening.
The four year old is in between. Two old to be carried and probably too young to do a complete hike.
Grinnell Glacier may not work for even part way as you'll take two boats to the trailhead. Then you could hike as far as you want. The issue would be then having to wait for the boat to return. You could wander around the area of the boat dock until the boat returns. When we came back some people hanging around there saw a grizzly go into the lake from the side. We saw it later from the boat.
Iceberg Lake might be better as it starts in Swiftcurrent parking lot and you can go as far as you want. The complete hike is over 4 miles each way but once you do the very start it opens out of the woods and the scenery is spectacular.
At Logan's Point on GTTS Rd you can hike all or part of Hidden Lake and/or the early part of the Highline trail. Just be careful with the 4 year old and the cable portion.
We saw mountain goats around there.
You can see photos from my trip to Glacier at:
www.travelwalks.com.
I never really got too far west of Logan's Point and didn't get to Two Medicine. Will get to those this summer.
Jan 5th, 2013, 11:21 AM
#5
If this is with a rental car, I would consider taking the Empire Builder from Portland or flying to either Spokane or Kalispell and renting the car.
You should be good on the GTTS road in August. I drove up 17 miles from St. Marys on June 1 last year before I came to the closed gate. Someday I will be there at the right time to drive over Logan Pass.
You should be good on the GTTS road in August. I drove up 17 miles from St. Marys on June 1 last year before I came to the closed gate. Someday I will be there at the right time to drive over Logan Pass.
Jan 5th, 2013, 12:07 PM
#6
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Depending on your itinerary, the ghost town of Garnet (near Missoula) might be wroth a visit:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...th/4235187637/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca/...th/4235187637/
Jan 5th, 2013, 12:54 PM
#7
The drives will not be a problem at all. If GTTS is not open, there's no problem with driving from East to West (and vice versa) on Hwy 2. In fact, I highly recommend that ONE late afternoon/evening that you make that drive. One of my favorite parts of our Glacier trip was stopping at the salt lick on Hwy 2 and watching the goats.
http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisi...goatlick06.pdf
We stopped every night. Couldn't get enough of watching the goats from the bridge and your kids would love it.
If your kids like trains, you'd enjoy a quick stop at the Isaac Walton Inn at Essex near the goat lick. The structure was built for railroad workers and is a historic inn. There are also train cars to sleep in. We stopped by and walked around and I saw more hummingbirds on their porch than anywhere else in my life -
http://www.izaakwaltoninn.com/
In fact, we stayed nearby in a family member's cabin and really like the midway location on Hwy 2. Yes, we had to drive back and forth - but we were halfway "there". We ate in the park during the day for lunch and then stopped by East Glacier to bring home something for dinner. Usually it was a pizza picked up at the East Glacier Trading Company (just outside the park boundary and across the street from the train depot). We'd wander the tiny town while we were waiting for it and would buy a couple of slices of pie from the diner down the street.https://www.facebook.com/pages/Glaci...r/226357713000
Speaking of pie, be sure to read monpetit's trip report. I don't know of anyone who knows Glacier better - other than workers in the park.
Since we were staying on Hwy 2, we stopped at a simple place for breakfast - http://www.glacierhaveninn.com/
and the nice folks there gave us sightseeing tips and even made the reservations for us for the boat ride at Many Glaciers. We were so glad they offered because there were long lines to buy tickets at the lakeside - including a family who also ate breakfast there at the same time.
We really enjoyed our lunch in the big dining room at Many Glaciers and the lunch at the Lake McDonald Lodge.
Last tip - be sure to take a ride in one of the historic "jammers". I've driven GTTS myself (on a 4th of July when it snowed on us!) but took a tour out of Lake McDonald on the last trip. The jammer is definitely the best way to see the park! HIGHLY recommend.
http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisi...goatlick06.pdf
We stopped every night. Couldn't get enough of watching the goats from the bridge and your kids would love it.
If your kids like trains, you'd enjoy a quick stop at the Isaac Walton Inn at Essex near the goat lick. The structure was built for railroad workers and is a historic inn. There are also train cars to sleep in. We stopped by and walked around and I saw more hummingbirds on their porch than anywhere else in my life -
http://www.izaakwaltoninn.com/
In fact, we stayed nearby in a family member's cabin and really like the midway location on Hwy 2. Yes, we had to drive back and forth - but we were halfway "there". We ate in the park during the day for lunch and then stopped by East Glacier to bring home something for dinner. Usually it was a pizza picked up at the East Glacier Trading Company (just outside the park boundary and across the street from the train depot). We'd wander the tiny town while we were waiting for it and would buy a couple of slices of pie from the diner down the street.https://www.facebook.com/pages/Glaci...r/226357713000
Speaking of pie, be sure to read monpetit's trip report. I don't know of anyone who knows Glacier better - other than workers in the park.
Since we were staying on Hwy 2, we stopped at a simple place for breakfast - http://www.glacierhaveninn.com/
and the nice folks there gave us sightseeing tips and even made the reservations for us for the boat ride at Many Glaciers. We were so glad they offered because there were long lines to buy tickets at the lakeside - including a family who also ate breakfast there at the same time.
We really enjoyed our lunch in the big dining room at Many Glaciers and the lunch at the Lake McDonald Lodge.
Last tip - be sure to take a ride in one of the historic "jammers". I've driven GTTS myself (on a 4th of July when it snowed on us!) but took a tour out of Lake McDonald on the last trip. The jammer is definitely the best way to see the park! HIGHLY recommend.
Jan 5th, 2013, 01:20 PM
#8
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Thank you for all of the thoughtful replies regarding activities, lodging, and food!
I am becoming a little confused, though.
I know that we can't see everything and that we will have to visit again one day when everyone can participate in long hikes. What would be the best itinerary for a first-time visit with the kids (17, 13, 4)? Should we do 2 nights in West Glacier and THEN 2 nights in St. Mary area and then head back on Highway 2 as Starrs recommended? (As opposed to 1 night West Glacier, 2 nights St. Mary, 1 night West Glacier on the return.)
Can I expect the road to be open in mid-August? If it is not, can you do out and back trips to the closed portion?
I am becoming a little confused, though.
I know that we can't see everything and that we will have to visit again one day when everyone can participate in long hikes. What would be the best itinerary for a first-time visit with the kids (17, 13, 4)? Should we do 2 nights in West Glacier and THEN 2 nights in St. Mary area and then head back on Highway 2 as Starrs recommended? (As opposed to 1 night West Glacier, 2 nights St. Mary, 1 night West Glacier on the return.)
Can I expect the road to be open in mid-August? If it is not, can you do out and back trips to the closed portion?
Jan 5th, 2013, 01:31 PM
#9
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You can expect the road to be open in August.
I would say any hikes that the 17 and 13 year old is up for.
4 year old might need to keep it at no more than 2 or 3 hours unless he/she really likes to hike and has already done some.
I would do 2 and 2 rather than 1,2,1.
I would say any hikes that the 17 and 13 year old is up for.
4 year old might need to keep it at no more than 2 or 3 hours unless he/she really likes to hike and has already done some.
I would do 2 and 2 rather than 1,2,1.
Jan 5th, 2013, 01:33 PM
#10
I wouldn't move three times. There's no reason for it. The distances aren't that great.
GTTS should definitely be open in August. No worries there. It is closed until they clear the snow and open up the drive to Logan Pass, and then at the end of the season. When it's closed, you drive part of the drive out of West Glacier until you get to the barricade, turn around, go out of the park, drive east on Hwy 2 until you get to East Glacier and drive as far as the GTTS is open. In short, you can navigate the park - just now all the way through on GTTS over Logan Pass.
We were there "too early" on our last visit, but the jammer driver waited - along with LOTS of others - and sure enough the barricade was opened for the year and we were one of the first ones to Logan Pass. The Visitor Center was open, but they were still unpacking the gift shop. The sidewalks were cleared but the snow was higher than one's head. It was exciting! There's a video on YouTube showing the clearing of the road and it's amazing how much snow they move each year.
Glacier is amazing - enjoy your trip!
GTTS should definitely be open in August. No worries there. It is closed until they clear the snow and open up the drive to Logan Pass, and then at the end of the season. When it's closed, you drive part of the drive out of West Glacier until you get to the barricade, turn around, go out of the park, drive east on Hwy 2 until you get to East Glacier and drive as far as the GTTS is open. In short, you can navigate the park - just now all the way through on GTTS over Logan Pass.
We were there "too early" on our last visit, but the jammer driver waited - along with LOTS of others - and sure enough the barricade was opened for the year and we were one of the first ones to Logan Pass. The Visitor Center was open, but they were still unpacking the gift shop. The sidewalks were cleared but the snow was higher than one's head. It was exciting! There's a video on YouTube showing the clearing of the road and it's amazing how much snow they move each year.
Glacier is amazing - enjoy your trip!
Jan 5th, 2013, 04:23 PM
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I think would do best by staying 2 nights West Glacier and 2 nights in St. Mary's in a VRBO. We did a similar thing with our family a few years ago and it worked out great. We did have one night in the Many Glacier Lodge and it was a big mistake. It was expensive and the rooms were terrible--run down and they did not keep out the noise. (I even overheard a park ranger recommend not staying there.)
BTW, the VRBO we stayed at in West Glacier was called "Bear's Den" and it was GREAT! You might want to check it out for your family.
BTW, the VRBO we stayed at in West Glacier was called "Bear's Den" and it was GREAT! You might want to check it out for your family.
Jan 5th, 2013, 04:27 PM
#12
You have to decide what your priorities are.
I am not interested in a Jammer ride or a 1 hour boat ride for scenery purposes (I'll take it as a shuttle as in Grinnell Glacier) that ends up using a good part of the day.
For me it's all about scenery, wildlife and waterfalls.
A relatively short hike takes you to St Mary Falls & Virginia Falls.
I am not interested in a Jammer ride or a 1 hour boat ride for scenery purposes (I'll take it as a shuttle as in Grinnell Glacier) that ends up using a good part of the day.
For me it's all about scenery, wildlife and waterfalls.
A relatively short hike takes you to St Mary Falls & Virginia Falls.
Jan 5th, 2013, 04:39 PM
#13
Well I STRONGLY disagree with the above, especially with kids of ages 17, 13, 4. I've driven GTTS myself and it is FAR more enjoyable for the driver and the passengers to relax and enjoy the scenery - and the jammer is lots of fun for the kids as well. The boat ride was incredible. We planned to go on the hike but those boarding the boat at the trailhead had just encountered a grizzly on the path (actually the griz followed them for a while). We decided to change our plans and just enjoy the boat ride with incredible scenery. 
Jan 5th, 2013, 05:26 PM
#14
And. . . as I wrote. You have to decide your priorities. Mine would be very different from yours.
Two years ago I took my daughter and granddaughter to Yosemite. That trip wasn't the same as it would have been with adults alone.
I would never go on a junior ranger hike myself.
Two years ago I took my daughter and granddaughter to Yosemite. That trip wasn't the same as it would have been with adults alone.
I would never go on a junior ranger hike myself.
Jan 6th, 2013, 04:26 AM
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Depending of the horary of arrival :
2 nights in Apgar : if you arrive soon in the day , hike around Lake Mac Donald , kayaking or rafting in this part of the park, visiting Lake Mc Donald lodge, bicycle path...
On the second day, you should drive in the north fork to Bowman Lake , with some easy hikes( hidden meadow, lower quartz lake) and chance to see wildlife.
On the 3rd day, GTTS with avalanche lake and trail of the cedars in the west part and then on Logan pas, or hidden lake or the garden wall.Falls on St Mary lake.
2 nights at Swiftcurrent : it allows fishercap lake on late afternoon or Apikuni falls for the oldest sons and father.
The day after, Iceberg lake or Grinnel Glacier or Swiftcurrent valley to bullhead lake or Grinnel lake. You have choice.
On the way back, a detour by Two medecine worth the miles with eventuality a small hike( twin falls) and then highway 2 which has some very nice spots.
While in Apgar, Eddies is a good choice to breakfast and diner,
In Many glacier, Ptarmigan room worth the $ and the garden Restaurant has excellent pizza( for the kits...) but breakfast are not at top. While driving thru St Mary buy 179 or 2 Berry pies at the small family restaurant here and your breakfast will be exceptionnal...
Erik
2 nights in Apgar : if you arrive soon in the day , hike around Lake Mac Donald , kayaking or rafting in this part of the park, visiting Lake Mc Donald lodge, bicycle path...
On the second day, you should drive in the north fork to Bowman Lake , with some easy hikes( hidden meadow, lower quartz lake) and chance to see wildlife.
On the 3rd day, GTTS with avalanche lake and trail of the cedars in the west part and then on Logan pas, or hidden lake or the garden wall.Falls on St Mary lake.
2 nights at Swiftcurrent : it allows fishercap lake on late afternoon or Apikuni falls for the oldest sons and father.
The day after, Iceberg lake or Grinnel Glacier or Swiftcurrent valley to bullhead lake or Grinnel lake. You have choice.
On the way back, a detour by Two medecine worth the miles with eventuality a small hike( twin falls) and then highway 2 which has some very nice spots.
While in Apgar, Eddies is a good choice to breakfast and diner,
In Many glacier, Ptarmigan room worth the $ and the garden Restaurant has excellent pizza( for the kits...) but breakfast are not at top. While driving thru St Mary buy 179 or 2 Berry pies at the small family restaurant here and your breakfast will be exceptionnal...
Erik
Jan 6th, 2013, 09:50 AM
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In my opinion Park Cafe is HIGHLY overated. Try Two Sister's Cafe just north of the Park Cafe.
Also, I'd suggest visiting with a Ranger at Apgar visitor's center. Explain your preferences as to hiking, scenery, photography etc and see what he/she suggest as to the best way to spend your time. They have all the latest information including which trails may be posted for bears, the latest weather, parking availability, info on FREE shuttle bus service, info on jammer tours etc.
Also, I'd suggest visiting with a Ranger at Apgar visitor's center. Explain your preferences as to hiking, scenery, photography etc and see what he/she suggest as to the best way to spend your time. They have all the latest information including which trails may be posted for bears, the latest weather, parking availability, info on FREE shuttle bus service, info on jammer tours etc.
Jan 7th, 2013, 09:01 AM
#18
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Wow! Thank you all. I appreciate all of the tips and advice. I think we will do 2 nights west, 2 nights east and drive highway 2 when we leave the east side. Now I need to get busy booking!
Jan 7th, 2013, 10:04 AM
#19
When you leave the east side take the road up past Two Medicine Lake. You might see wild horses on US 89 south of St. Mary.
When I was there on June 1, the horses were licking road salt on the highway causing a bit of a delay. Make a stop at the big monument on US 2 at Marias Pass. The other things to see along US 2 are the Isaac Walton Lodge at Essex and the salt lick area where the goats hang out sometimes.
When I was there on June 1, the horses were licking road salt on the highway causing a bit of a delay. Make a stop at the big monument on US 2 at Marias Pass. The other things to see along US 2 are the Isaac Walton Lodge at Essex and the salt lick area where the goats hang out sometimes.
