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G'lou's affordable hawaiin holiday...

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Old Jan 2nd, 2004, 08:05 AM
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gyppielou
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G'lou's affordable hawaiin holiday...

Hey all, I'm back from my 5th wonderful ride on these two glorious islands-this time decked out in holiday cheer. First off, it was fabulous celebrating the season onislands that feel like home. We shoveled our way to the airport, so landing in paradise was that much sweeter.

Day 1 - arrive at Kauai, pick up car while my husband waits for bags, stop at A Pacific Cafe for lights apps and salad, and to supply up at safeway, then onto Princeville area and our condo. This took alot of websearching to find, but I couldn't recommend it more - The Cliffs, 4-207, a onebedroom, oceanview, completely updated, fresh pleasing, ac in case, although in winter was not needed. Kauai Vacation Rentals manages the place for the owner, and at $875 for 7 nights was an amazing deal to me.

Day 2, awake at 4am due to time change, check out the weather and decide to try to get out on a Trike today since the winds are changing, called at 7am and Gerry the owner of BirdsinParadise, called back and filled me into his schedule, which was perfect since he would have had to postpone the scheduled flight....LOVED IT!!! Hung at Polihale, great but rather dangerous surf. My husband toured Poipu during my flight, and we stopped at Brickoven for two pies to take home for dinner later. Had a drink and fish taco at Dukes, which is a fun, fun place to stop for sunset. Home to pizza and Christmas postcard writing which was quite an enjoyable task.

Day 3, Up and out, checked out the northshore beaches, high surf, so we headed south to Poipu and Gillin's and neighboring Beaches. The wind and waves are here too!! Still haven't been in the ocean which is surreal to us. Sunset at the Princeville, which is grandly decked out for the holidays and then dinner at Hanalei at Sushi Blues, good but nothing outstanding. With a few ingredients, I could have made the pretty good ahi poke, an amazing dish.

Day 4, Drove to the lighthouse for sunrise - the lighthouse is closed at sunrise!!! So we took a leisurely hike stroll to Donkey Beach/secluded cove and then headed to Kapa'a for breakfast. Heading back north, we again failed to hit the waves - huge surf, although we gave it a hell of a try. Went to just about everybach on the map. Secrets Beach was amazing, the surf was so intense. Even Anini was unswimmable. Our last treck was to Sea Lodge beach in Princeville where we called it quits, a little disorriented that we had yet to swim on our favorite island. Hit the pool and BBQ'd at the condo, they have 4 gasfed Webbers for your use, in fine cooking condition. We are definately loving condo living vs hotel. No dirty hiking clothes, cooking, plenty of room. Sure we missed Princeville's infinity pool - but - we were doing just fine without it....if only I could swim in the ocean - alas winter in Kauai!!! More later!
 
Old Jan 2nd, 2004, 08:43 AM
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Welcome back gyppielou and thanks for your trip report and Kauai update!

Was there a path to the beach near your condo and if so was it usable or only for the daring

Did you happen to check out Lydgate Park to see if the water was too rough there

Any updates on the condition of the NaPali coast trail would be likewise be welcome.

Mahalo in advance for your replies.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2004, 09:44 AM
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Mahalo John D ... you know what? That Mahalo and Aloha, and hang ten took 5 trips to get down, but it finally feels natural. I don't feel like a tourist running around politely acting it....I have reached true aloha!!! It is a wonderful place to be!

No I didn't check out Lydgate, although if there was swimming anywhere, I've read that would have been it. The Cliffs is dead center between Sea Lodge and Queen's bath, great swimming in good conditions. Sea Lodge is a treck down as is Hideaways, which is what makes them more magical, you have to do the work, and so many tourists just stay put, same with SecretBeach. Plenty of people hiking the full Napali.....

Day 5 - Hiking the first leg of Napali! This is heaven, can't believe it took us so long to come home to this place. Be forewarned, the beach was not there, the surf reaching the rocks. This was my first time not swimming here, a bittersweet moment. But it was still pure joy. I must say the thought of hiking and camping does nothing for me. There seemed to be a couple of dozen people of all walks of life spending the night - not convinced I'd want to be stranded on a beach with all of them! I would only do it if I made provisions to fly in lobsters and steaks...no birdfeed for me! Had a lovely swim at Ke'e Beach, and then Hanalei Bay, although the rest of my northshore beaches, the ones I dream about regularly, floating in different shades of green and blue where and would remain unswimmable. I will only return to Kaui in the late spring and early fall, for I miss floating in these colors. Dinnner that night at Princeville's famous Seafood Buffet. We went early as instructed, and my husband was dead on when he said he felt like he was in Vegas at an all-you-can-eat. Sorry everyone, although it was one of the nicest buffets, it was still a buffet, and for us, our last buffet. Human nature makes you take a taste of everything. There are just too many flavors that for us it turns into mediocrity. A huge potluck dinner will never be an elegant sitdown dinner party. To each there own. We are glad we tried it. And did we have a blast taking people pictures at the beautiful lobby? Hell yeah! We met ever so briefly people from around the world, offering to capture their holiday for them....such Fun!!!! I'm not sure who was more fun, the Japanese couple with no english, or the Belgium family that were shocked when I guessed their homeland!! Life is good!

Day 6 - and what a day. I had been trying to talk my husband out of our revisit to Waimea's Awa~'awapuhi Trail, he had rose colored glasses on the last time, and a bit younger too. Am I glad we did this hike a second time - YES!!!! - will we do it again? Unless we start heading to the gym everyday, and do an hour a day on the stairmaster, I doubt it. Slick and slippery down is just as much work, well almost, as coming back up. Also with each step down, you anticipate your return, although the alternative is an additional 4 miles, which kept us on this trail only. We met a lovely marine Carl and hung out a bit, he did the full circle and we headed back up. My lungs never worked so hard. The memory will hopefully stay with me for our resolution to get in better shape. This is a great hike!!! And the vista, yes, I will perhaps forget the pain, get in better shape and do the whole trail next time! From their we were of to Polihale, heading to Queen's Pond, which was not there. Rather than swim on a protected reef, we watched some worldclass surfers making magic of 20ft and up waves...as cool as it is to watch surfing videos, nothing compares to watching them shred them upclose and personal, with only a couple dozen people on this huge beach. Fun!!!!
 
Old Jan 2nd, 2004, 12:50 PM
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And so the saga continues ---

Day 7 - what to do our last day...with so many choices, given good weather, it would have been....well the surf was still up so we spent our day checking out our northshore beaches just to make sure they were not a wise swimming choice and then headed to Hanalei for more shopping, sunning, swimming and eating. And watching surfing on what is one of the most local busy and friendly beaches on the islands. If you want to feel at home then hang out at Hanalei bay. Tropical Taco's grilled fish taco rules!!! The burrito is good but the taco?!!!!Sooo, we hung out, swam, snacked, hung with the crowd, and basically acted and felt like we lived in Kauai, in Hanalei Bay. My Irish skin was feeling a little toasted, so we decided to head out, however!!! we didn't get far. Well yes we made it to the car to leave our gear, but..........on the way, and people once again...timing is everything. Remember that, timing is everything! We nearly ran smack into Bethany, my one armed surfing goddess!!! as she left her mom with board in hand, took off passed us and jumped of the pier. It was a moment that I knew would happen, as it was the weekend, and her neighborhood, and the guys at the Hanalei Surf Co. told me she had been out.....alas, it was quite the emotional moment to see her, using her left arm and right leg to paddle out and catch a few dozen waves. The first time she caught a wave, we with the locals applauded, after a dozen we looked on admirably. Words cannot describe seeing such a young woman, comfortable in her skin, having fun with her friends, hanging, and doing the best she could ----- just a month after losing a limb. Sorry to get so long winded, but really, amazing, I will have trouble complaining again without taking stock.

How to spend our last night, well at the Princeville of course. We went for sunset, and hung in their wonderful livingroom at a luxurious couch, ordered a california roll with real crab and shared a burger, while enjoying a true native hawaiin show of two, telling us the story of Pele, and sharing some magical hawaiin history and folklore. Magic!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Old Jan 2nd, 2004, 01:08 PM
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Oh Lou.......what a wonderful report and a magnificent last day. Lucky you..must have been a very emotional moment. Can't wait to keep reading.
 
Old Jan 2nd, 2004, 03:26 PM
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Thanks iceeu2! It was truly a wonderful day in the life of gyppielou!!! We are truly blessed!!!!! Life is good! Aloha! G
 
Old Jan 2nd, 2004, 06:02 PM
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gyppielou:

Can you tell me more about the Awa~'awapuhi Trail please. We will be in Kauai for 7 days in early Sept. and staying at the Hyatt for the first 2. I have thought about getting up the 1st day early (as we will have come from Florida the day before) Driving up the Canyon and doing this hike and having lunch at the vistaa than back out. How long would this take us? We are mid-40, fairly good shape - not marathon runners though, just active. Would are airpland trip from the day before make this too grueling? We wil do the Napali Trail (the 4 miles) when we are staying at Secret Beach Hideaways, but doubt we would head back around to the canyon once we leave the Hyatt.

How long to the vista and how long to get back to car (without doing the loop)

Thanks much!!!

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Old Jan 2nd, 2004, 06:50 PM
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Nancy, We've done the Awa-awapuhi Trail twice, once five months after Hurricane Iniki when the trees looked as though Dr. Suess has drawn them! It's a nice hike. We've done the loop where you head out on the Awa' trail (leaving your car at that trailhead) then cross overthe Cliff trail to the Nu'alolo trail. You come out close to the Park Headquarters which means that you need to take a rather long walk back to your car OR bum a ride back to your car from a friendly tourist. (Which is actually pretty fun.) Bring lots of water. The views of the Pali are amazing and the last bit of the Nualolo Trail are really beautiful as you come up through a leafy bowl. It's a long hike but memorable. We did it in January one year and it was way too slippery. September would be ideal as long as you get a nice early (read 'cooler in the morning') start. Then you'ld have time to pamper your tired body back at the Hyatt.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2004, 04:24 AM
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Hey Kip, hope you're having a wonderful time, know you are! Nancy Kip has it right. If you're in relatively good shape and have good hiking shoes than I'd go for the full hike, which is 9 8/10 without the walk to your car. It has been recommended to start at Nu'alolo Trail for the loop. Otherwise the Awa...part we did was about 1 hr down - 1:45 up. I'd say 31/2 miles to vista. You really feel good, like you've done something special that many fail to take the time to do. Go for it!
 
Old Jan 3rd, 2004, 07:39 AM
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Gyppielou: I don't think we'll have time to do the whole circle because we want to go to the Allenton Gardens in the afternoon and we will have to make a reservation to do that.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2004, 11:32 AM
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Nancy, whatever you decide will be wonderful, make sure you leave time out to enjoy and relax at the Hyatt, it is a lovely hotel.

Where was I, yes just about to leave the Garden Isle - 9:30am flight taking us home to Maui. At this time I must point out that there is such a huge difference in the airport/rental car thing in Kauai compared to Maui. Kauai, and I have noticed this in the past as well, is so much more civilized, kind, gracious, and not once trying to do the hardsell. We actually had the engine light come on and switched out cars at 7:30am on our way to our Wamiea hike. We were back on the road in 10 minutes! The maui agent on the other hand had a big city attitude, and tried to demand additional insurance for the convertible, telling me my personal insurance wouldn't cover it. When I told her it would, she demanded to know what exactly I drove at home!....not the best way to re-enter paradise Alamo people! Work on your people skills and back off with the hard sell, your folks at Kauai have the Aloha spirit down. Sorry, needed to let that out! Sooon. G
 
Old Jan 3rd, 2004, 02:22 PM
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Ok! A Beautiful sunrise was our final gift from Kauai. We headed out and moved on to glorious Maui. Landed at 11am and did the car/bag/pickup thing - really saves those precious moments. We powershopped for Hana, food, wine, cooler, and were on our way in 45 minutes. Alas one very important stop on our road to Hana....lunch of course at one of our favorite places, Halliemaile General Store. Wendy, our barmaid is so fantastic, as is Bev Gannons fabulous food. We are addicted to the Sashimi Nepolean, a wonderful dish. I mean really addicted to it. Just a well done, presented, perfect dish. So properly nourished and provisioned we headed up the Hana Highway by one. With a little Jack Johnson to set the mood, we ambled on with no real stops, this is a familiar road, and we are eager to see my second affordable lodging choice.

And arrive we do, high up in the hills of Hana overlooking Hamoa is Hana's Heaven. Folks, for $150 a night, this place was truly Heaven----hell for any price it was heaven!!!! Directly up the hill from Venus Pool this self sufficient home was a dream come true. Sorry to dissappoint, but we were lucky to be the very last guests, as the owners were packing up and moving to the mainland for their childs high school education, an admirable change of lifestyle. They've sold the property and it is doubtful that it will again be a rental option. Heaven it was, with the sun rising and blazing to welcome our two mornings. The vista meant journeying out took on its own time. What to rush to when you've already arrived. For our two days, we hung out, played with the dogs, talked story with the owners, cooked and lightly explored Hana, which meant mostly driving to Kaupo's church. On the way there we saw a wonderful monument, statue of mary I think, with a worn plaque praying for those lost on 9-11. This meant so much to see, thanks to those who keep the flowers fresh! It really brought the spirit of Christmas to our hearts.

Other than that we hung around town, and red sand beach, one of our all time favorite places. If you're in the neighborhood stop by Hotel Hana for a drink and french fries, yes you heard that right, only they're served sprinkled with a sesame,seaweed wasabi mix with wasabi spike ketchip. Yumm!

Once again, the weather was cloudy, windy, high surf and rain. But hey, it was still heavenly!!!! Returning here and Kauai is different than those first times. Sure it would be lovely to have wonderful sunny weather and a good swimming surf. But with or without it, we were just so happy to be sharing time in paradise, and all conditions have their beauty.

So on Christmas Eve morning, we packed up, wished our hosts well with their new life and moved on. But yes, before moving on, I had one more thing to do ---TRIKE!!!! I took my second flight with Armon in Hana, and it was as wonderful and amazing as my first flight with Gerry. They are old friends and hanggliding junkies who fell in love with the freedom the propeller offers. We had a wonderful time, Armon has promised that next time,I will be in the flyers seat, winds permitting. He let me control the glider for a bit, and then killed the engine so that we could trully glide the last bit of our flight and landing. OK, I admit it, I'm a triking junkie now. But what a way to splurge on Christmas Eve!!! Who thought the day could get better than this?!!!!!
 
Old Jan 3rd, 2004, 03:06 PM
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Well my husband met me at the airport after dining at Hana Hotel - grilled fish eggs benedict. a worthy meal for two, as I got half of it in a takeout container to keep me going on the return drive down the Hana Highway. He also bought a print matching the one we already own by artist Margaret Bidell, known for her beautiful floral water colors. Merry Christmas!

Well, we head off to our last adventure, Kihei. Now some may say that this place does not fit into the affordable category, but hear me out. This place was $250p/n for Christmas. Before I discovered it, I was sincerely looking at what I judge, dumpy places for $350p/n and up. So for Christmas my friends, yes this was more than affordable, it was a steal!

So where did we spend Christmas? In Kihei at Aloha Pualani, which is newly owned, completely gutted and decorated by Sherri Withers. This place is amazing. Just 5 units plus the owners unit, this sports a lovely pool, 5 star outdoor kitchen for use, gorgeous gardens and amazing artwork. This is the kind of boutique property that Maui has been needing for a long time. All units have full kithens and living space with seperate bedroom. Ours the orchid suite was a corner unit with a lovely lanai with full ocean views across the street.

Now we have been blessed to stay at the 4S twice. I asked my husband where he would like to stay next time....Aloha Pualani!!!! Yup, you heard it right, 4S out, Aloha in!!!!!!!!!!! So on Christmas eve, we met our host, who upon checking us in, let us know that she had no other guests for the night, and would be heading up island to see her boyfriend. Yes, you read that right, we had the pool, the viking outdoor kitchen, the tiki candles, the whole place to ourselves - cancel those dinner reservations honey!!! We're eating in!

Not right away of course, first we went to Tommy Bahama Bar for a cocktail and app, then we went Christmas shopping at Tommy Bahamas store---such Christmas eve fun! On our grocery list, big eye tuna, tobiko, opahkapaka, and ny sirloin! oh and some rice!!!! What a wonderful meal we had in our own private paradise. Oh Santa, you did us right!!! Priceless!!!!!!! For now Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!!!!! gyppielou
 
Old Jan 3rd, 2004, 06:26 PM
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OMG!!! I am usually not the jealous type, but Gyppielou, you have just described my fantasy christmas eve! I checked out that place on line, it does look amazing. Very refined, classy and my god, to have it to yourselves! I am green with envy, good for you...
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Old Jan 3rd, 2004, 06:48 PM
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Wow, glou, you make Aloha Pualani sound even BETTER than the Hamoa Bay House & Bungalow, which my husband and I happily enjoyed a year and a half ago, based partly on your recommendation...I think when we return (and WE WILL return) we might follow in your footsteps again! Great report! Did you get to see the bamboo forest on the trail above the seven sacred pools?
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Old Jan 4th, 2004, 07:11 AM
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Green over here too!
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Old Jan 5th, 2004, 06:13 PM
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Alohamom and Bogart, you wear green well. Joan, love that you loved HamoaBH, Hana's Heaven was just as amazing in its own way. You should definately consider following our footsteps, such a fun comment!!!

Well, let's see my friends, it's all down hill from here. Which doesn't suck. Christmas morning was a trip to Big Beach - Makena, beach of the gods!!! Then we stopped off at church to get some good old hawaiin christian spirit into our day. Made a very late breakfast and called family and friends while hanging still alone at the pool. A little Jack Johnson, some Elvis xmas tunes to give us that Blue Hawaii Christmas, and of course, Big Yellow Taxi. We were blessed to have the place to ourselves all the way up to our dinner reservation at Spago. We still love this place, and the porkchop with polenta....3rd time and still amazing! Good company at the bar, we gave our table away.

What else, we kayaked which was quite the workout due to some exceptional winds.

This was the first time that I agreed that the Blue Book has done damage, not to me, but the environment. Sure I loved blue pool, olivine pools and venus pools before the whole tourist world found out about them. Quietly, I would love to still have them to myself. However, I truly believe, after talking with many kayak guides, from various companies that trying to hike to the Aquarium is abad idea. The kayaks take great pains to land and use a tiny area of this sanctuary to ensure the least possible damage to the environment and coral. When people hike there, they don't know where to enter the water, so the area is disrupted and damaged. The more people that encrouch, the more damage. The blue book says this is a doable hike, but at what cost. In time signs and direction may help, but for now....either take a kayak group or enter where you see the kayak companies. Yes I will address this issue with Andrew, my new triking colleague!.... thought you should know, since I would have considered the hike, not reazizing its possible damaging effects. g'night for now
 
Old Jan 21st, 2004, 05:00 PM
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gyppielou
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ttt for tk
 
Old Jan 22nd, 2004, 11:34 AM
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Wow, what a fab report. John D, we were at Lydgate Park 1/8 - 9, even if the surf was high, there is a rocked-in kids pool that's always calm. Stayed at the Aloha Beach Resort next to the park and watched sunrise and moonrise on the beach, so romantic.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2004, 03:15 PM
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mahalo!!!!
 


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