Glad you had a great trip. I was up there in August and had a really nice 4 days. I've been flying up there, from L.A., since the 60s, when I was a small child, and have always loved a few days of walking and eating really great food. Happy Travels!

Day 3- Monday

This morning we decide to try a different place for breakfast. About a block from the hotel is the Fisherman's Wharf Deli and Taqueria. I have a bacon, egg, and cheese burrito (huge and good at 5.99). D ordered a sausage and cheese omelette and ends up with a sausage, egg, and cheese burrito. Rather than wait for what he's ordered, he takes it. With a cup of coffee, breakfast was under $15 for two.

I get a text from our friend J which says, "We just landed. When do we start eating?" I love my friends. :-) They are game for just about anything, love to eat, and tolerate my taking pictures of the food.

I knew they would be hungry once they arrived so D and I walk back up to Washington Square Park to the Liguria Bakery at 1700 Stockton St.
They sell one thing only there; foccacia in about 10 different flavors. Big slabs of it (about 12" square) sell for $4-$4.50 depending on the flavor. The shop is odd; there's nothing in the glass cases so if you've never been there it's a little hard to tell what you want by sight. I just take a guess and order 3; rosemary & garlic, black olive and green onion. They bring them out from the back and wrap them up in a neat little package of white paper. We head back to wait for our friends at the trolley stop near the hotel.

We walk them back to the hotel and they check in. Up in our room, we break out the foccacia to many ooohs and ahhhhs and give T her bottle of Amaro Lucano. She is thrilled!

We have bought our tickets for Alcatraz for 2:20 online (https://www.alcatrazcruises.com/index.aspx ) so we have a few hours before we have to be at the boat. Tickets do sell out in advance, so it's a good idea to buy them ahead of time online. In fact, later, when we arrive there is a sign saying there are no more tickets available for that day.

We decide to walk around Fisherman's Wharf and get a bite to eat. First, we return to Pier 39 to check out the seals again, and then go onto the part of the pier where there is food and drink. It's mega-touristy and just makes me cringe, but everyone else decides they want a drink, so we stop at the "Wines of California" shop where they all order wine flights (priced at $12-$15 per 3 glass flight). I abstain from the wine because drinking and boats don't mix at all for me.

After that, we walk to the far end of Fisherman's Wharf (near Boudin bakery) where J says she's had good seafood before purchased straight from the sidewalk vendors outside the restaurants. We check these out, but for some reason decide to go inside a restaurant called Nona Rose to sit and eat. Big mistake.
<i>(Disclaimer; I work for a company which owns seafood restaurants and I used to be a professional chef in one, so I know my seafood, and yes, I'm picky)</i>.
What we had was a poor excuse for seafood; badly shucked oysters sitting on a watery tray of melted ice, ketchup masquerading as cocktail sauce, crab from a can, soggy fried calamari. I could go on but won't. Still full from the foccacia, I order nothing but lemonade and am happy with my choice.

From there, we walk down to Pier 33 where the boats dock for Alcatraz. They start allowing people to line up around 1/2 hour early. Everyone has the opportunity to have their photo taken in front of an Alcatraz backdrop, so the 4 of us do it together. The ride over takes about 15 minutes and feels fast.

Before I'd left home, a coworker had told me, "when you get off the boat, there will be a park ranger there asking everyone to wait and gather around. Ignore them and just walk up the hill. That way you won't get stuck going through the tour with 250 other people." Normally I'm not one to break the rules. In fact, it makes me downright uncomfortable. But we follow the advice and it was the best thing we could have done. No one asks us to stop and we arrive at the top and pick up our audio guides before the crowds arrive.

The audio tour is great. It's narrated by former guards, inmates, and even residents (a woman whose father was warden when she was a child). D gets his audio tour in French (just for fun and practice) and we note some cultural differences in the narration; mine mentions the 2 lane bowling alley, his does not. His mentions the bakery on site, mine does not. The prisoner's cells are fascinating and sad at the same time. The audio tour takes about an hour and we really enjoy it. J says it's better than when she was here a few years ago, before Alcatraz was made part of the National Parks system http://www.nps.gov/alcatraz/ .

We walk back down the hill and are the very last people on a boat waiting to go back. When we arrive at the dock, we check out the photos which were taken before we got on the boat. They are 5x7s and 2 for $22 (and you have to buy both). For once, they're not bad, so we decide to share and each buy one for a souvenir.

Good morning! I posted this so late last night I just wanted to post again to bring it to the top. In general, I like the new version of the boards here, but I don't like that it's so easy for posts to get "lost" so quickly. Will try and do more trip report later...

Fantastic photos as usual, Kristina!

>>Fisherman's Wharf ........ restaurant called Nona Rose to sit and eat. Big mistake. .......What we had was a poor excuse for seafood; badly shucked oysters sitting on a watery tray of melted ice, ketchup masquerading as cocktail sauce, crab from a can, soggy fried calamari.....

This is why locals avoid the Wharf. And because locals avoid the Warf, the restaurants don't have to try & serve something that would make customers want to return. Mc Do, In-&-Out Burgers, and Hooters probably do a good business, however.

We took a CityGuides tour of the Wharf last year (history tour - not a T-Shirt tour). When we passed the large crab pots, I examined the just-delivered crab, and they seemed to be squirming - so at least they were alive when they went into the water. Don't know how long they sit before they are served, however. I like my crab to be alive the same day I eat them, and cracked less than 10 mins before I sit down to dinner or lunch.

Great trip report!!!

Stu Dudley

This is a great trip report!

FWIW, Alcatraz has been part of the NPS for many years -- I think your friend probably meant that the audio tours are better than when the tours were run by real live park rangers. I don't know when it changed from one to the other.

Stu, I cannot believe you took a tour of the Wharf - what were you thinking :-))

It was a history of the Wharf tour - mostly pre 1950. No schlock stuff.

Stu Dudley

I also wore a hat, large dark glasses, and face paint so nobody would recognize me at the Wharf.

Stu Dudley

Great trip report ---- definitely makes me want to go back to San Francisco!

What a great report! Thanks so much.
We live in Palo Alto and are outrageously lazy abot going into the city (too cold or foggy is or top excuse!)But your report made me determined to go more often.

Stu-no, we didn't have whole crabs, just crab "cocktail". It most definately came out of a can. They coulldn't possibly shuck enough for as much as they sell. There's nothing necessarily wrong with canned crab either, it's just that this wasn't the good stuff. And yes, I knew better than to eat there. I usually get to pick the restaurants and I should have had a better plan for this meal.

sf7307- I don't know when it changed either, but my friend said she did a tour to Alcatraz about 3 years ago, but the boat left from a different pier. She said they had an audio guide too, but it wasn't as well produced.

MP07950-Thanks! I plan on going back again as soon as I can.

phidias1-Isn't that the way it always is? We never do the things in our own home town. I am ashamed to admit I've never been to the Ghetty museum here in LA.

Had to hunt for you this am...busy day on the US boards...too bad you all didn't get to see the wharf as it was--when fishermen actually docked there with their catch...

Mom, I'm sure it was great 'back in the day. Now it's a tacky shell of its former glory.

Sorry this report is taking so long but real life intrudes. Darn that!

Photos from the 1st half of day 3 are now online:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/sanfrancisco2009Day3.html

After picking up our photos, we start walking down the Embarcadero toward the Ferry building. The plan is to get to the Hog Island Oyster company in time for their Monday Happy Hour (from 5-7 pm) when they have $1 oysters.
Along the way we stop at an artisan chocolate shop called TCHO which is tucked into an old Pier building.
We also get "surprised" by a homeless guy who hides behind a bush and then jumps out, startling passers-by. I'd actually read about this guy before coming and there is much debate about him online. He has the nerve to ask for money "for the adrenalin rush" after he's scared people. Inventive, yes. But in my opinion, one of these days he's going to startle someone into a coronary. So, sorry, but no "contribution".

We arrive at the Hog Island Oyster Company around 4:40 and it's already crowded. In fact, we're told if we want a table outside the wait could be about an hour. However, there are seats at the bar, four on a corner (2x2) and would we like them? In what is quickly becoming a dining trend for us, we say yes and take our seats at the counter.
Because Happy Hour does not begin for another 20 minutes, we order drinks to start at full price and peruse the menu. Sitting at the bar gives us a chance to watch the oyster shuckers in action and they are going full tilt given the waiting crowd, shucking dozens in advance of the orders they know will be coming. The oysters end which up flying out without wait.

By the time the drinks arrive, we can order off the Happy Hour part of the menu and we start with some of everything on it; 2 dozen "Sweetwater" oysters ($1 each), warmed Castelvetrano olives ($5), Grilled Sardines ($6) two enormous ones with breadcrumbs, baby bok choy and almonds, and Grilled shrimp ($9), three huge ones, with harissa chili sauce. Later, we order 2 dozen more oysters and a few more drinks.

In contrast with lunch, the oysters are served on a glistening mound of ice with the proper accompaniment of a perfect mignonette sauce. The sardines are freshly caught, moist, and perfectly grilled. The shrimp is tasty with the spicy sauce. Our "snack" for 4 is $123 before tax and tip. Note; most of our drinks (3 glasses of champagne, 2 glasses of wine, and 2 beers) were not at happy hour prices. Oysters are usually $2.25 each and up on the regular menu.

>>by a homeless guy who hides behind a bush and then jumps out, startling passers-by. I'd actually read about this guy before coming and there is much debate about him online. He has the nerve to ask for money "for the adrenalin rush" after he's scared people. Inventive, yes. But in my opinion, one of these days he's going to startle someone into a coronary.<<

Yep - and the person with the coronary will sue the City for million because the City failed to control a known hazardous situation.

Stu Dudley

Hey Kristina!

I can't believe this! I'm thinking (nothing definite yet) of a long weekend trip to San Francisco with my mom later this year (probably July, I know, summer in SFO can be chilly) and just today popped onto the US board to check out the posts...to my surprise...there you were! :)

I haven't started reading your report yet, but know that I am going to enjoy it!

Kristina - Thanks for such a fabulous trip report and the links to your websites! I am enthralled! We're planning to go to SF later this year and this is a thread I've bookmarked (along with your website).

Ok, I've read through your report and LOVE it!

I've decided that finding your trip report is a sign for me to book a flight to SFO! :-) And knowing my love of Italy, SPQR is now officially on my radar for when I am there!

Now it's time to check out your pictures!

<i>And knowing my love of Italy, SPQR is now officially on my radar for when I am there!</i>

Just know that they don't take reservations! Go late for a late lunch, or later for an early dinner :-)

sf7307...

Thanks for the tip...good to know! :)

Bookmarking

LCI- We keep going to all the same places, don't we? :-) Any chance you are going to Vietnam soon too? I need someone to do my research...
Yes, SPQR was good, and no, they don't take reservations. We went on the later side, around 9pm for dinner. I highly recommend if it's you and your mom, trying to get a seat at the chef's bar. It's fun to watch them work.

Anyone who can't wait, pictures and review of A16 are up on my blog:
http://formerchef.com/2009/04/15/din...16-restaurant/

More to be posted here tomorrow morning (sorry, tired now) and more photos will be on website.

A 16

We meet up with J and T around 8 PM and we walk a few blocks where we can pick up the #30 bus which will take us right by A 16. When we arrive, the restaurant is full and crowded in the cramped waiting area in the front. We're told it could be up to an hour and D gives the host his cell number to call. I'm irritated. Waiting that long for a restaurant is a pet peeve of mine; I'd rather just go somewhere else. We take a walk down Chestnut Street, checking out all the cute shops and a couple of other restaurants. After about 20 min, we end up back at A16, debating if we want to wait any longer when D's phone rings. It's the host, telling us if we are willing to sit at the Chef's Bar, we can be seated now. See what I mean about a trend?

We are seated right in front of the pizza oven and it's hot! So hot that J strips down to a tank top, T removes a layer in the restroom and I'm contemplating if I can get away with sitting there in a bra, this being San Francisco after all. I decide to roll up my sleeves instead and order a very cold white wine.
We look at the menu and settle on a bunch of dishes to share;
Romaine and Chicory Salad with lemon and Olive oil ($6)
Roasted Beets with Full Belly Farm Farro Salad, roasted cipolline, mint & ricotta salata ($10)
"Monday Meatball" special (1/2 order, $11)
Maccaronara with tomato ragu and house-made ricotta salata (1/2 order, $9)
Ricotta gnocchi with roasted wild mushrooms, green garlic and fava leaves (1/2 order, $10)
Verde Pizza-fresh ricotta, asparagus, prosciutto cotto, red onion, grana padano, chilies, olive oil, ($16)
Side of Erbette Chard with garlic, anchovy and lemon ($6)
Roasted Carrots and turnips with green garlic, mint and chiles ($6)

Both salads are lovely and I vow to try and recreate the beet one soon. The pasta dishes are "ok". I found the gnocchi bland, but T loved it, so it just goes to show how much food is a matter of individual taste. The special meatballs are excellent. The chard is so good I do recreate it on Easter Sunday (recipe coming soon).The pizza is very good and after watching the pizza cook make dozens of them, next time I think I'd order the "salsiccia" pizza with fennel sausage. I think I'd also try some of their various house cured salumi. D sits next to a "regular" who fills us in on the local gossip about some of the other regulars at the bar, life in the neighborhood, and what he knows about the restaurant. His Beef Flank arrotolato looks pretty darn good too.

Again, we very much enjoy sitting at the counter watching the cooks do their thing. The cooks are all in white, short-sleeved shirts, aprons and the ubiquitous tattoos. I'm impressed by the calm demeanor of the Sous Chef who obviously enjoys the respect of her cooks. Every plate which left the line was checked by her, garnished, and perfected. Service is great and we're all happy with our meal. Dinner for four, with 4 drinks is $114 before tax and tip. It's an easy bus ride back to the hotel and to bed.

Kristina, I assume you know that SPQR and A16 are owned by the same people?

Ooops! Yes, I left a critical paragraph out of my last post I guess.

Missing paragraph:
Full, happy, and a bit tipsy, we leave the Ferry Building and decide that a trip back to the hotel for a rest is in order before dinner. We want to try A 16, the sister restaurant of SPQR so I call them to see if I can get a reservation. All I get is a recording. When I try again a few minutes later, someone answers, but they tell me they are all booked, though we are welcome to walk in. We head back to the hotel on the F tram.

Photos are all online now:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/sanfrancisco2009Day3.html

Kristina...

Just had a chance to look at your photos...fabulous as always!

I need to make a correction. Someone who found me via Twitter (yes, I "tweet", as "wired2theworld") let me know that Alcatraz has been a national park since 1972. I think it's just the audio tour which has changed in the last couple of years.

Ok, my due diligence has been done. :-)

Kristina -- I'm enjoying your report and pictures, as always. :)

I haven't been to Alcatraz since I was a kid. I always remember our guide telling us that the inmates on the second floor were put there as "punishment," because the smell of Ghiradelli's chocolate (made right across the bay) would waft through the windows and into their cells.

Funny things kids remember...

~Myra

Myra- I would be shocked if that were true (that the smell of chocolate would travel that far). Then again, they did say the prisoners were able to hear people having parties on New Year's Eve, so perhaps smells travel like that too.

<b>Day 4-Museorama Day </b>

This morning we decide to forgo a restaurant breakfast. I settle for a package of oatmeal made with hot water from the room's coffee maker. It works and it gets us out the door faster and cheaper than if we went out for breakfast first.

The four of us catch the cable car again like D and I did on Day 2, headed back to Golden Gate park and the de Young Museum. It's raining and at one point the cable car operator has a hard time getting us up one of the hills. We have to back down and try again. Both T and I take pictures of the hand crafted, leather laced covers on the cable car operation levers (what are those things called?).

De Young Museum:
http://www.famsf.org/deyoung/index.asp

Today is the first Tuesday of the month and the de Young Museum is free (normally $10 admission, save $2 with MUNI Pass or bus transfer ticket). We start in a really interesting photography exhibit of signs taken all over the world in the last century. Next, we move on to the modern art section and are immediately struck by and installation called "Anti-Mass" by Cornelia Parker. It's made up of hundred of pieces of shattered and charred wood taken from a Southern Black Baptist church which was torched by arsonists. The pieces are all suspended from the ceiling by clear fishing line. There is also a bronze fist sculpture which has two eyes stuck in it. Later, at the Legion of Honor museum we see a similar bronze hand by Rodin which could have served as the inspiration for this piece (photos of both will be on my website).

In a room filled with fantastic glass sculptures, we see this interesting mask. On one side it is a devil with horns, and on the other imbedded into a wedge of cut glass is a Venetian carnival mask. The mask changes as you walk in a circle around it.

We have lunch in the De Young Cafe and because it's still raining, they have to push the overflow diners into a large conference room set with tables, outside the cafe in the main area of the museum. The food is decent; I have the "Happy Asian Chicken Salad" and D has the "de Reuben" sandwich. J and T both have French Onion Soup they say is good. After lunch we walk around a bit more, but discover about half of the second floor is closed off as they remove the last special exhibit. Before we leave, we go over to the 9 story tower, take the elevator to the top and check out the 360 degree views of the city.

At this point, D has been communicating via text with a coworker, B, who is in San Francisco this week too. Our plan is to meet him for dinner tonight. But now, he's over at the Legion of Honor Museum seeing their special exhibit called "Artistic Luxury-Faberge, Tiffany & Lalique". We all agree that we are done with the de Young and decide to head over to the Legion of Honor to check out the special exhibit. J and T both really wanted to see it, and while I didn't know much about it, it sounds interesting.

Legion of Honor Museum:
http://www.famsf.org/legion/index.asp

I look at the transit map and there doesn't look like an easy and fast way to get there from here, so we decide to hail a cab which costs about $14. There may be a shuttle bus which runs between the two, but I can't find any info about it online. Admission to the Legion of Honor is normally $10 ($2 off with MUNI Pass or bus transfer ticket), but also free on the first Tuesday of the month. In addition, if you pay admission to the Legion of Honor, or the de Young, admission to the other is free on the same day.

J buys us all tickets to the "Artistic Luxury" exhibit ($10 extra, not included with regular admission). Thanks J! Once inside, we run into our friend B. The exhibit is fantastic! I'm not as in awe of the Faberge eggs as I am with the Lalique and Tiffany jewelry. I was particularly taken with a "dog collar" necklace with peacock feather in the center. There are some stunning Tiffany lamps and other stained glass work as well. Another favorite are the hair ornaments created out of precious gems and made to look exactly like orchids. If you are at all an Art Nouveau fan, this is the show for you. Unfortunately, no photos are allowed inside.

The museum has a large collection of works by Rodin, including The Thinker, out in the courtyard entrance. I really like The Man With The Broken Nose and a sculpture of a hand which reminds me of the "modern" version we saw at the de Young.

We take another taxi back to the hotel ($17.50). We could have easily taken a couple of busses, but it would have taken too long and we want a break before dinner. Once back D goes over to Trader Joe's to buy us a bottle of wine, some bread and some cheese. We sit at one of the hotel's fire-pit tables along the driveway and enjoy our home-made happy hour.

Around 6 PM we take the Tram down to Market Street where we get off and go to the new Intercontinental to meet our friend B in his room there for a pre-dinner cocktail. The hotel is beautiful and his room, a Junior Suite, is lovely and huge. The bathroom has floor to ceiling windows and a walk-in shower. B calls down and asks for a taxi-van to take us to Delfina in the Mission for dinner. Unfortunately, the taxi never comes and we are forced to split up and take two regular cabs to get there.

Hi Kristina - still enjoying the report. Your description of Cornelia Parker's work immediately thought of the piece we have here in Boston at the ICA:
http://www.icaboston.org/exhibitions...rtists/parker/

yk-yes! The exhibit was very, very similar. Actually very moving once you figured out what it was. Pictures coming.

Ok folks, here's the end:

<b>Delfina</b>
www.delfinasf.com

We arrive at Delfina and are seated right away at a table in the main dining room. Like most restaurants we've been to in San Francisco, it's packed. Where is evidence of the recession I ask? Our server takes us through the menu and mentions the daily specials. As with the other places we've been, we're offered water in a carafe, and not asked if we want bottled. On the menu it states, "$1.25 per person will be added to each check to support the San Francisco Healthcare Security Ordinance."

For an aperitif, we order a bottle of Prosecco di Valdobbiadene ($32) for the table. After that, the server lets us have a couple of tastes of different wines before ordering a bottle. We decide on a really unusual wine, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba Gavigliano ($44) from the Marche region of Italy. This has to be one of the strangest wines I've ever tasted; it smells like violets and tastes nothing like it smells. It's good, but highly disconcerting.

We order our food, all to share for the five of us.
Appetizers:
Grilled Monterey Bay Sardines Scottaditto ($9.25)
Marinated Beets and Navel Oranges ($10)
Fresh-Cured Anchovies "Nostrano" ($8.50)
Snails with Herb Flan and Garlic Butter-verbal special, we order a second one after having the first they are so good.
Pastas:
Fazzoletti al Ragu ($17)-a spinach pasta which looks like a hankerchief
Mint Tagliatelle with artichokes and mascarpone ($17)
Cauliflower Soup with paprika oil and cumin croutons ($8)
The pastas are both excellent and everyone loves the soup.
Mains:
Roasted Liberty Duck with housemade sourkraut and kumquats ($24)
Duroc Pork Arista with Iacopi butter beans and spring onions agrodolce ($26)
Strawberry Mountain Ranch Hanger Steak and french fries ($26)
Sides:
Anson Mills Polenta with fontina Val d'Aosta ($7.75)
Chard sauteed with garlic and lemon ($7.75)
Snap Peas and Farm Carrots with butter and mint ($7.75)
Desserts:
Warm Scharffen Berger Chocolate Torta with Olive Oil Gelato and Maldon Sea Salt ($9)- (this is my favorite; the sweet/salty thing is so good!)
Sage-Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Fresh Oranges and Caramel ($9)
Profiteroles with Espresso gelato, Warm Chocolate sauce and Candied Almonds ($9)

Honestly, everything is excellent and we have no complaints. We devour everything. Of our three Italian meals here in SF, this one is the best in terms of consistancy of food and service.

After dinner we split up. J and T go to visit a college friend of J and D and I take the cable car (fun at night and in the rain!) back to our hotel after visiting with our friend B a little longer.

The next morning we have a quick breakfast in the hotel coffee shop with J and T and then head back to Oakland airport the way we came; F tram to BART station at Embarcadero to Air Bart to Airport. The flight back on Southwest is fine and even has free WiFi as a test product on the flight. I try it and it works great, though when I Twitter about it (I'm @wired2theworld), suddenly @Southwest is following me on Twitter. Coincidence? I think not...

I can't wait to go back to San Francisco again.

thanks so much for your trip report!

Kristina...

Great report, as always! I have a question for you about the California Academy of Sciences.

It looks like you spent most of the day there. Do you think I should allot a full day or could I possibly do the de Young or Legion of Honor on the same day as the Academy of Sciences?

And...BTW...not only did I decide to go to San Francisco this year...but I'm also going back to ROME!!!!! Yup, for a week in mid-October...I know, call me crazy! :-D

LCI-
OMG, my mom just asked me today if we should buy tickets to Rome for October! This is just too weird...
Have you bought tix yet? If so, did you find a good deal?

As for CAS, you could easily spend the whole day there. We spent about 4 hours, including lunch. I think it depends on your pace and stamina. Plus, if you go on a day when they open at 9:30 you will have more time and then might be able to go to the de Young on the same day. OTOH, you get free admission to the Legion of Honor with de Young admission, so if you want to see both of them, that should be done same day.

I finally got a chance to read your trip report, and it's wonderful. I love all the details you include. Thanks!

Thanks Samsaf!

Last of the photos now online:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/sanfrancisco2009Day4.html

Kristina...

Yes, mom and I bought our Rome tix already. On Delta from Savannah with a connection in ATL we paid $800 each. Believe me, that's a pretty good price for us here, so we jumped on it.

We are flying out on Thursday, October 8 and returning on Saturday, October 17th. Not sure what dates you and your mom were thinking of but it would be a blast if both our dates coincided and we could get together in Rome. Sorry to hi-jack your SFO trip report thread! :-)

LCI-I found some fares today as low as $696 on United but just not sure yet about going. If we do, we might be there at the same time!