enzian

I lived in Alaska many years ago, and spent a summer working in Denali, before it was officially named Denali. (Of course, to Alaskans, the park and the Mountain have always been Denali, regardless what a Congressman from Ohio thinks). I haven’t been back for thirty years, and it is probably time. I am thinking of August, 2009.

When I lived there, Alaska had little if any tourist infrastructure. Now it seems there is so much, that I find myself turning to the experts on this board for help in planning a trip to a place I lived for nine years. I would like to outline my rough plans and thoughts, and then ask for your suggestions. I am starting on this now, because I assume some of the reservations I will want (like Camp Denali) must be made well in advance.

Say we have about 18 days. Starting in Bellingham, I’d like to take the Alaska ferry to Juneau for a couple of days. From there, visit Glacier Bay, which I’ve never seen. Should we stay at Glacier Bay Lodge, or someplace in Gustavus?

Back to Juneau and onward to. . .???? I’d love to continue on the ferry to Haines, and rent a car there to drive up to Fairbanks. That was how I originally arrived in Alaska, all those years ago. But I don’t know if one can do that (rent a car in Haines and drop it in Fairbanks). So maybe our only option would be to fly from Juneau to Fairbanks. Or perhaps continue on the ferry to Skagway, and take the train to Whitehorse? Then we would have to get from Whitehorse to Fairbanks—by bus?

We would spend 2 nights in Fairbanks, visiting the U of A and a couple of cabins that I helped build. I’m sure Fairbanks has changed a lot in 30 years, but I’m afraid it might not all be for the better. I’m sure the hotel choices, however, are much better-– your recommendations?

Then we would take the train to Denali, which will be the highlight of our visit. I’d like to do the 4-night stay. I cannot tell from the website how far in advance one needs to make reservations. I assume it is a year in advance . . . or more?

Then back on the train and down to Anchorage. Don’t need to spend any time there; just enough to pick up a rental car and head for the Kenai Peninsula. I think I’m running out of time, but I can adjust all of this except the Denali stay. I’d like to have about 3 days for the Kenai. I remember liking Homer quite a bit, and a hike into Upper Russian Lake. What else should we include—Valdez? Whittier? I’m sure it has all changed so much I won’t recognize it. Any standouts there in lodging?

Finally, return to Anchorage and fly home.

Now it is in your hands. What do you think? Is it realistic, in terms of time allotted and other considerations? Any suggestions for the best way to transfer from Juneau to Fairbanks, if we want to see some of the scenery on the way rather than fly?

Things we like (and don’t like), if that helps: we love wilderness, scenic beauty, history, small towns, hiking, meeting other travelers, good food and wine, rustic accommodations over luxury. We don’t need to spend time shopping, do the bear viewing, take a floatplane trip, eat muktuk, see Barrow or Nome, pan for gold, or go fishing. We don’t mind a bit of bad weather but would like to avoid the skeeters (hence the August choice).

Is there a particular guidebook that is most helpful? (Besides the Milepost, of course).

I know I won’t find the same Alaska I left. I am excited about seeing the new one.

Bill_H

I cannot tell from the website how far in advance one needs to make reservations (for Camp Denali). I assume it is a year in advance . . . or more?

We've stayed there four times the past eight years ... they have these "Special Interest" programs and when they have a really hot one of those scheduled it can fill up early. For example in late Aug or early Sept they often have a famous guest photographer and for a few bucks more (used to be for free) the first dozen people to sign up could ride with this famous guy each day. In years past John Shaw, Galen Rowell, George Lepp and David Muench were the guest artists (if you're a nature photographer you will know these guys) and we are going next August with famous National Geographic photographer Jim Brandenburg, as an example.

Anyway, for those weeks you want to book at least a year in advance if you want the special session group, but otherwise you can book somewhat later and still get in. I would just drop them an email and let them know which 4 day slots fit your schedule and they'll tell you how full they are.

Bill

enzian

Thanks, Bill_H. Having recently gone through the trauma of securing reservations at Phantom Ranch, I thought Camp Denali might be just as difficlut. I sounds like it is not quite that bad.

Although we would indeed like to be there late August (my favorite time there, with the red tundra), we would avoid the photographer's week. (And yes, I recognize the photographers' names. I miss Galen Rowell's wonderful work). So I will have to work around that, maybe looking at the week before.

I did e-mail them today to request a brochure, and I mentioned that we spent one night there in 1978, in "Bedrock" (the climbers' cabin, which probably doesn't exist any more). Just in case repeat customers get priority!

I still think this is the first reservation we would need to make (when we are ready), and then build the rest of the trip around our Denali stay. Correct?

Bill_H

Although we would indeed like to be there late August (my favorite time there, with the red tundra), we would avoid the photographer's week.

They have 17 cabins and only a dozen people are doing the special photo session, so there are still open cabins that week for the 22 people who aren't doing the photo thingy. We missed out on getting in the David Muench session (which did fill up 13 months early) but went anyway that year and had a fine time ... it's usually one of the best weeks for tundra and there are nightly presentations by the artist.

They still have 3-4 other activities going out each day (hard and easy hikes, 'naturalist' walks, 'photo bus' without the star photographer, etc) and they group you with the North Face guys to get enough for each activity, so I would still go my preferred week if I were you (that is, the fact it's guest photographer week won't interfere with your plans if you're not in the special session).

So I will have to work around that, maybe looking at the week before.

As you probably remember, it's green-green-green continuously monotonously green until that last week and then it changes so fast that in 10 days it's pretty much over. I'd hold out for the reds and oranges and yellows week myself.

I still think this is the first reservation we would need to make (when we are ready), and then build the rest of the trip around our Denali stay. Correct?

That's what I'd do ... this is probably the hardest place to book and they have the fixed 3 day - 4 day itineraries so there is less flexibility ... maybe we'll see you there.

Bill

enzian

OK--I'm convinced. If it's the red tundra I want, we'll go the last week.

The kids were here over Thanksgiving, going over old photos and scanning them into the computer. A good thing, because the colors are starting to fade. I have a gorgeous one of a bull caribou, turning to stare at the camera as they do (curious), red tundra all around. And a bit of "termination dust" here and there.

Definitely my favorite time. Thanks for your input.

MileKing

Bill_H, we'll be there the last weekend in August next year (the 3 day itinerary that starts August 29). Staying at Northface as opposed to Camp Denali so not part of the special photography session. Sounds like it is a great time to be there and we are very much looking forward to it.

Bill_H

MileKing, we are there at the same time, just up the hillside a bit. My wife actually likes North Face better (some nonsense about preferring indoor plumbing to an outhouse on cold, wet Alaska night ... silly girl) but we have to stay at Camp to do the Special Session with Brandenburg.

If you come up the hill one night for a presentation (or we come down) be sure to say 'hi'. The staff can probably point us out.

Bill

enzian

Ok, got Camp Denali settled.

Now I am hoping someone can help me with the Juneau to Fairbanks part. I've tried to find car rentals out of Haines and was unsuccessful, but maybe I didn't look around enough. I like the idea of the White Pass & Yukon RR from Skagway to Whitehorse, but then we'd still have to get to Fairbanks from there.

So maybe I should give up the idea of a ground trip and just fly from Juneau to Fairbanks?

MileKing

Bill_H, I understand the indoor plumbing thing....that's why we are at Northface....would have loved to do the photo session.

Since you've been there before, a couple of questions if you don't mind:
1. Do the Camp Denali and Northface guests dine together?
2. Do people frequently bring their own adult beverages (wine/beer/other) to enjoy with dinner?

Thanks.

Bill_H

1. Do the Camp Denali and Northface guests dine together?

Separate dining rooms ... lodges are maybe a half-mile or more apart and Camp is up a steep hill, which cuts down on mingling except that day trips are shared.

2. Do people frequently bring their own adult beverages (wine/beer/other) to enjoy with dinner?

No problem bringing your own, a few people brought wine when we were there. Some of the employees are under 21 so it's a hassle for the owners to get a liquor license to serve it, but bringing your own is fine. Just pack it well for the 90 mile bus ride in.

Bill

enzian

Remind me---by late August, it is getting dark for a short time at night, correct?

And if one does bring wine, would it be awkward or impolite not to share it?

I'm comparing to the Yosemite High Sierra Camps, which can be accessed by hiking only. Everyone at the table understands that if you worked hard to carry it in, you aren't expected to share. (But of course, it is appreciated if you do).

But maybe the Camp Denali code of conduct is different?

BTW, are Wally and Jerri cole still involved? Or their kids?

Bill_H

by late August, it is getting dark for a short time at night, correct?

Right, maybe 9 PM or a bit later but a true dark night, unlike late June ... I think I took this shot around 8:30 or 9 PM (I know I missed supper that night) ... http://www.hiltonphotography.net/ala...li_1.htm#wlake

But maybe the Camp Denali code of conduct is different?

I didn't pay much attention to the wine sharing etiquette ... at North Face there are tables seating 6 or 8 and it's probably polite to ask around the table if someone wants a glass. Most people seemed to politely decline. At Camp there were a couple of big long tables family-style and you sat elbow to elbow so there it wouldn't be practical to share with an entire table.

I think most of the time people drank a bit of wine with cheese and crackers (or whatever) before the meal and then carried a fresh glass over to the table. I never really thought it was a problem ... I guess it's like the Sierras, if you brought it you can drink it with a clear conscience.

are Wally and Jerri cole still involved? Or their kids?

Yes, they are still on-site ... son Land and his wife Laura and daughter Jenna and her husband Simon Hamm were all there last time we were at Camp, running one of the lodges, but I think one of the couples was planning on opening a restaurant so may not be there now.

Bill